Re: Stus-List Bermuda Race

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Congratulations. I must learn from you how to prep a boat for the race in such 
short time. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Joel Aronson via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Joel Aronson"  
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 2:17:27 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bermuda Race 

We finished last night. Five days 7 hours. Corrected down to third because one 
boat rated 201 Jake was an iron man on the helm! 

Joel 

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016, Frederick G Street via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Joel and Jake on Joel’s new boat Atlantis are doing pretty well in the 
Annapolis to Bermuda Race; I’ve been watching the tracking on Yellow Brick’s 
site: 

http://yb.tl/abor2016 

They’re currently in second place (uncorrected) in the Cruising 2 fleet, and 
are about 190 miles from the finish; if their speed keeps up, they’ll be there 
tomorrow some time. 

— Fred 



Fred Street -- Minneapolis 
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI 






-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

more fun than doctoring though ...
__
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Dr. Mark Bodnar via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: June 16, 2016 6:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Re: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

Absolutely - but my hourly rate might be a bit shocking.


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 2016-06-16 3:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> Mark
>
> Can you come and check out my truck?
>
> I think I have a voltage leak somewhere underneath in one of the many wiring 
> bundles ..
>
> Mike
> 2008 Silverado 1500
> (Yet to be named)
> Halifax, NS
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
> Bodnar via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 3:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
> Subject: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem
>
>
> I appreciate all the advice.  Had some nicer weather (finally) so I drove 
> down to the boat this morning.  Couple hours of mucking around and I got it 
> sorted.
>
> I was able to get the engine to crank over when I hot wired the solenoid, and 
> the multimeter was showing power to the starter/solenoid.
>
> That left me thinking something was wrong in my panel - corroded looking 
> plugs but no response from cleaning a few or from wiggling contacts around.
>
> Brief call to mechanic and he suggested the fuse box on top of the engine 
> would be the culprit (given the blower was not running either).
> I had already checked fuses and resistance was OK - but after some digging I 
> found the outgoing wire was badly corroded and had a break hidden up 
> underneath where it went into the wiring harness (variable voltage readings 
> when I moved wire around).
>
> Quick fix was to cut the wire - clean up the ends and splice it back together 
> with a butt connector - engine fired right up!
>
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
> - George Santayana
>
> On 2016-06-07 3:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thanks for all the feedback.
>>
>> I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this
>> weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned
>> on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather
>> intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the
>> tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the
>> culprit).
>>
>> I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground
>> wires.
>>
>> No glow plug to deal with.
>>
>> I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you
>> from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not
>> sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.
>>
>> I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>- George Santayana
>>
>> On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that
>>> need to get done.
>>>
>>> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything
>>> was running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely
>>> nothing) from turning the key.
>>>
>>>
>>> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power
>>> to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>>>
>>> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a
>>> few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't
>>> re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had
>>> shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on
>>> the starter solenoid (?).
>>>
>>> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off
>>> to clean contact but no effect.
>>>
>>>
>>> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>>>
>>> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>>>
>>> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
>>> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>>>
>>> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to
>>> what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires
>>> connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>>>
>>>
>>> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to
>>> figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>>>
>>>
>>> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd
>>> get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If
>>> nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>>>
>>> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the
>>> ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can 

Re: Stus-List Bermuda Race

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Awesome!  Glad you made it safely.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 4:17 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We finished last night. Five days 7 hours. Corrected down to third because
> one boat rated 201 Jake was an iron man on the helm!
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 14, 2016, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel and Jake on Joel’s new boat *Atlantis* are doing pretty well in the
>> Annapolis to Bermuda Race; I’ve been watching the tracking on Yellow
>> Brick’s site:
>>
>> http://yb.tl/abor2016
>>
>> They’re currently in second place (uncorrected) in the Cruising 2 fleet,
>> and are about 190 miles from the finish; if their speed keeps up, they’ll
>> be there tomorrow some time.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

Lorne, Although a great C your 30-2 is a 28 year old boat. I wouldn't rush 
off the dock too quickly before checking everything out and replacing filters 
etc as has been mentioned.
Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 # 90


  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
 Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 1:49 AM
 Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed
   
I'm going over my survey which I was not present for.  I'm 2000 miles  from my 
boat at this time... But the survey person said my throttle is reversed.  How 
would I fix this?  Is it likely backwards on the helm side or on the engine 
side at the carburetor /throttle valve?  Why would the PO have it reversed to 
begin with? 
I'd like to know in advance of me arriving so I know what kind of task I have 
ahead of time and tools/parts I might need.   I need to sail away within a day 
of arriving to pick it up and would have one day to repair /reverse it to 
correct direction ASAP. 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Absolutely - but my hourly rate might be a bit shocking.


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-16 3:28 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Mark

Can you come and check out my truck?

I think I have a voltage leak somewhere underneath in one of the many wiring 
bundles ..

Mike
2008 Silverado 1500
(Yet to be named)
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem


I appreciate all the advice.  Had some nicer weather (finally) so I drove down 
to the boat this morning.  Couple hours of mucking around and I got it sorted.

I was able to get the engine to crank over when I hot wired the solenoid, and 
the multimeter was showing power to the starter/solenoid.

That left me thinking something was wrong in my panel - corroded looking plugs 
but no response from cleaning a few or from wiggling contacts around.

Brief call to mechanic and he suggested the fuse box on top of the engine would 
be the culprit (given the blower was not running either).
I had already checked fuses and resistance was OK - but after some digging I 
found the outgoing wire was badly corroded and had a break hidden up underneath 
where it went into the wiring harness (variable voltage readings when I moved 
wire around).

Quick fix was to cut the wire - clean up the ends and splice it back together 
with a butt connector - engine fired right up!


Thanks for the help

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana

On 2016-06-07 3:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned
on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather
intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the
tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the
culprit).

I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground
wires.

No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.

I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:

Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that
need to get done.

Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything
was running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely
nothing) from turning the key.


Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power
to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.

I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a
few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had
shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on
the starter solenoid (?).

That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off
to clean contact but no effect.


I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized

3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires
connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected


I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!


Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd
get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If
nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?

I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the
ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which
wires are needed

Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try
to spin the starter/solenoid directly?


The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating.
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of 

Re: Stus-List Bermuda Race

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

We finished last night. Five days 7 hours. Corrected down to third because
one boat rated 201 Jake was an iron man on the helm!

Joel

On Tuesday, June 14, 2016, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel and Jake on Joel’s new boat *Atlantis* are doing pretty well in the
> Annapolis to Bermuda Race; I’ve been watching the tracking on Yellow
> Brick’s site:
>
> http://yb.tl/abor2016
>
> They’re currently in second place (uncorrected) in the Cruising 2 fleet,
> and are about 190 miles from the finish; if their speed keeps up, they’ll
> be there tomorrow some time.
>
> — Fred
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

The Max-Prop may be worn and need to be rebuilt. Check for looseness in the
blades when it is hauled.

I had something similar happen when motor sailing when my prop was worn.
When the wind would puff and accelerate the boat taking the load off the
prop, it would shudder.

Eric
C 34/36

On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 2:59 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Check your motor mounts.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 16, 2016, at 10:36 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2016 09:25:00 -0700
> > From: Andrew Means 
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells
> > Message-ID:
> >
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hey all -
> >
> > My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
> > vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
> > performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
> > less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
> > ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.
> >
> > Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
> > boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn?t
> change
> > RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
> > also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and
> let
> > it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
> > maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were
> at
> > the top of a swell.
> >
> > We?d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day
> before
> > with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind
> > there was was behind us.
> >
> > The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop
> is
> > feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
> > that - or if there?s any way to do so without hauling the boat out
> (hoping
> > to avoid that mid-trip?)
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > --
> > Andrew Means
> > S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> > Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List What is my engine HP rating?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Your one hour rating is 20 hp.  Whatever that means.  Your constant rating is 
16 hp at 3400 rpm.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 16, 2016, at 1:36 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a 1988 C 30MKII.  The engine plackard says 2GM20F and 16hp. For sale 
> ad by owner said 18 hp and survey report says 20.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Check your motor mounts.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Jun 16, 2016, at 10:36 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2016 09:25:00 -0700
> From: Andrew Means 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hey all -
> 
> My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
> vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
> performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
> less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
> ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.
> 
> Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
> boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn?t change
> RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
> also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let
> it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
> maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were at
> the top of a swell.
> 
> We?d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day before
> with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind
> there was was behind us.
> 
> The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is
> feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
> that - or if there?s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping
> to avoid that mid-trip?)
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Mark

Can you come and check out my truck?

I think I have a voltage leak somewhere underneath in one of the many wiring 
bundles ..

Mike
2008 Silverado 1500
(Yet to be named)
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 3:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem


I appreciate all the advice.  Had some nicer weather (finally) so I drove down 
to the boat this morning.  Couple hours of mucking around and I got it sorted.

I was able to get the engine to crank over when I hot wired the solenoid, and 
the multimeter was showing power to the starter/solenoid.

That left me thinking something was wrong in my panel - corroded looking plugs 
but no response from cleaning a few or from wiggling contacts around.

Brief call to mechanic and he suggested the fuse box on top of the engine would 
be the culprit (given the blower was not running either).  
I had already checked fuses and resistance was OK - but after some digging I 
found the outgoing wire was badly corroded and had a break hidden up underneath 
where it went into the wiring harness (variable voltage readings when I moved 
wire around).

Quick fix was to cut the wire - clean up the ends and splice it back together 
with a butt connector - engine fired right up!


Thanks for the help

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 2016-06-07 3:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the feedback.
>
> I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
> weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned 
> on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather 
> intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the 
> tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the 
> culprit).
>
> I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground 
> wires.
>
> No glow plug to deal with.
>
> I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
> from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
> sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.
>
> I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that 
>> need to get done.
>>
>> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything 
>> was running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely 
>> nothing) from turning the key.
>>
>>
>> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power 
>> to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>>
>> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a 
>> few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
>> re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had 
>> shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on 
>> the starter solenoid (?).
>>
>> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off 
>> to clean contact but no effect.
>>
>>
>> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>>
>> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>>
>> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
>> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>>
>> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
>> what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires 
>> connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>>
>>
>> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
>> figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>>
>>
>> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd 
>> get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If 
>> nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>>
>> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the 
>> ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which 
>> wires are needed
>>
>> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try 
>> to spin the starter/solenoid directly?
>>
>>
>> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the advice,
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
>> you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> 

Stus-List Success - Re: Starting Problem

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

I appreciate all the advice.  Had some nicer weather (finally) so I 
drove down to the boat this morning.  Couple hours of mucking around and 
I got it sorted.


I was able to get the engine to crank over when I hot wired the 
solenoid, and the multimeter was showing power to the starter/solenoid.


That left me thinking something was wrong in my panel - corroded looking 
plugs but no response from cleaning a few or from wiggling contacts around.


Brief call to mechanic and he suggested the fuse box on top of the 
engine would be the culprit (given the blower was not running either).  
I had already checked fuses and resistance was OK - but after some 
digging I found the outgoing wire was badly corroded and had a break 
hidden up underneath where it went into the wiring harness (variable 
voltage readings when I moved wire around).


Quick fix was to cut the wire - clean up the ends and splice it back 
together with a butt connector - engine fired right up!



Thanks for the help

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-07 3:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks for all the feedback.

I'll me digging out my multimeter and heading down to the boat this 
weekend.  I now realize that I don't think the engine vent fan turned 
on when I turned the key (my lights on the panel are rather 
intermittent and my engine overheat buzzer has never worked, plus the 
tach is intermittent -- so good chance that the wiring harness is the 
culprit).


I'll check the fuses on the engine and see if I can find the ground 
wires.


No glow plug to deal with.

I've also been advised to check the "neutral kill swtich" (stops you 
from starting engine in gear) and the "oil pressure kill switch" - not 
sure where those are so I'll have to look at the engine manual.


I'll see what I find and come back with more details if it's not working


Thanks,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-06-06 12:12 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that 
need to get done.


Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything 
was running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely 
nothing) from turning the key.



Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power 
to the radio when trying to turn over the engine.


I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a 
few hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't 
re-start.  That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had 
shaken loose with the engine running for a long period) off a clip on 
the starter solenoid (?).


That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off 
to clean contact but no effect.



I figure there are 3 possibilities

1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over

2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of 
noise or power dip indicating that something was seized


3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to 
what I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires 
connected as well.  Nothing obviously disconnected



I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to 
figure out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!



Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd 
get a voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If 
nothing then it suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?


I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the 
ignition key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which 
wires are needed


Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try 
to spin the starter/solenoid directly?



The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP


Thanks in advance for the advice,

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List What is my engine HP rating?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Lorne,

16 HP, according to your plate and the Yanmar specs. 

Also see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yanmar_2GM20 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







> On Jun 16, 2016, at 1:36 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a 1988 C 30MKII.  The engine plackard says 2GM20F and 16hp. For sale 
> ad by owner said 18 hp and survey report says 20.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List What is my engine HP rating?

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

I have a 1988 C 30MKII.  The engine plackard says 2GM20F and 16hp. For
sale ad by owner said 18 hp and survey report says 20.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

One blade can't feather without the others feathering.

Alan Bergen

On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 9:25 AM, Andrew Means via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all -
>
> My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
> vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
> performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
> less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
> ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.
>
> Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
> boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn’t change
> RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
> also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let
> it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
> maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were at
> the top of a swell.
>
> We’d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day
> before with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little
> wind there was was behind us.
>
> The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is
> feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
> that - or if there’s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping
> to avoid that mid-trip…)
>
> Any ideas?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

A friend had the same issue, the problem was apparently that the water flow
over the prop was neutral/reversing when the boat surfed momentarily. His
solution, after much dollar spendage and mechanic guessing, was to motor at
a speed that didn't produce the problem.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 16 June 2016 at 09:50, S Thomas via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I wonder if that little bit of wind was just enough to tilt the boat
> forward so that the prop was sucking air momentarily as the bow tipped down
> over the top. Could that cause the prop to feather? Power boat racers have
> a person assigned to the throttle in swells. I don't have a feathering
> prop, just speculating out loud.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> - Geared Gori prop
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Andrew Means via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means 
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 16, 2016 12:25
> *Subject:* Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells
>
> Hey all -
>
> My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
> vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
> performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
> less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
> ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.
>
> Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
> boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn’t change
> RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
> also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let
> it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
> maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were at
> the top of a swell.
>
> We’d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day
> before with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little
> wind there was was behind us.
>
> The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is
> feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
> that - or if there’s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping
> to avoid that mid-trip…)
>
> Any ideas?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> --
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I wonder if that little bit of wind was just enough to tilt the boat forward so 
that the prop was sucking air momentarily as the bow tipped down over the top. 
Could that cause the prop to feather? Power boat racers have a person assigned 
to the throttle in swells. I don't have a feathering prop, just speculating out 
loud. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Geared Gori prop
  - Original Message - 
  From: Andrew Means via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Andrew Means 
  Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 12:25
  Subject: Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells


  Hey all - 


  My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed 
vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been performing 
brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the less-windy 
sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large ocean swells on 
our way up to Tofino.


  Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the boat 
crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn’t change RPM at 
all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again, also over a 
swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let it idle - when 
we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened maybe 6 times over the 
course of the passage, always starting as we were at the top of a swell.


  We’d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day before 
with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind there 
was was behind us.


  The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is 
feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix that - 
or if there’s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping to avoid 
that mid-trip…)


  Any ideas?


  -- 
  Andrew Means
  S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
  Seattle, WA


--


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List intermitent vibration/shudder in ocean swells

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

Hey all -

My friends and I are currently in Tofino, BC on day 6 of a much needed
vacation. So far our Yanmar GM30F and 3-bladed max-prop have been
performing brilliantly, sipping diesel and pushing the boat through the
less-windy sections of Strait of Juan De Fuca and up and over some large
ocean swells on our way up to Tofino.

Yesterday on the way up from Ucluelet I felt a shudder/vibration as the
boat crested a swell. It was short but pronounced. The motor didn’t change
RPM at all or seem under load. About 10 minutes later it happened again,
also over a swell. This time we had to lower the RPM of the engine and let
it idle - when we brought it back up it was smooth again. This happened
maybe 6 times over the course of the passage, always starting as we were at
the top of a swell.

We’d been going through swells at the same angle under power the day before
with no trouble, the only difference this time was that the little wind
there was was behind us.

The only thing I can think of is that one of the blades of the max prop is
feathering as we go over these swells. I have no idea how one would fix
that - or if there’s any way to do so without hauling the boat out (hoping
to avoid that mid-trip…)

Any ideas?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Awful Vibration

[Dave via CnC-List]

Alan, 

My gear shift linkage is totally different with the cable coming in from 
forward of the lever through a bracket. Its pretty obvious that I need only to 
remove the lever rotate it 180 degrees and reattach it to make forward be 
forward again. 

I'm guessing that if the vibration was due to misalignment, engine mounts, 
bearing or bent shaft that the vibration would always be their and not only 
after slowing down. The prop, which is what I thought the issue was, has been 
replaces with a brand new geared prop and since a new prop didn't fix the 
problem that's not it. 

I did find the following on the web; 



My prop opens easily by hand and when the blades are oriented properly the 
lower one will hang down by its own weight. Given that data, I knew with 
absolute certainty that if it spins, it has to open. The condition Bob and Dyk 
are describing happened to me just after I reinstalled the engine after 
rebuilding it and I had not adjusted the linkage properly. I would have to rev 
the engine up around 1500-1800 and it would rumble and abruptly "kerchunk" and 
churn water at the stern. Initially I thought that was the prop opening, but 
knowing how loose the prop was I knew there was no reason for it to be closed 
before that. So I looked at the shaft. When put into gear, it would spin but so 
slowly that there wasn't enough revolution to drive the boat. I pushed on the 
linkage lever on the transmission and wham it fully engaged and the shaft 
started spinning like it should - much faster. I realized the rumbling I heard 
was gears trying to mesh and the kerchunk I had heard was the transmission 
popping into gear, not the prop opening. I adjusted the linakge so now when I 
shift into forward, the boat moves even at low RPMs. 

Dyk, Bob, I don't know how tight a brand new or recently rebuilt prop is 
supposed to be, but a spinning mass generates quite a bit of force. The formula 
for centripetal force is F=mv^2/r with m=mass of object, v=velocity at a 
certain radius, and r= radius. A quick check of the numbers will tell you that 
even at low RPM, there is easily enough force to open your prop. Keep in mind 
that if it is so tight that it won't open, it shouldn't be able to close 
either, so when sailing an open prop should be spinning like mad and you can 
hear and feel that. If you can assure yourself that the prop is opening and 
closing, the only other variable in the equation is the RPM of the shaft. I can 
only speak from my own experience and what worked for me but there is no reason 
I can think of for a clean, properly adjusted prop to not open. It has been 
designed to open when it revolves. Good luck! 



Dyk Luben 

unregistered posted 09-13-2002 02:36 PM 

 

I need to follow up on my propeller situation. After further study, I found 
that indeed the propeller shaft was spinning too slowly. It was a problem in 
what I called the transmission, but what the professionals call the reversing 
gear. The clutch was worn out and no amount of linkage adjustment would correct 
it. I had a new clutch and seals installed by Mack Boring, and it works 
perfectly now. So if anyone assumes that their propeller is not opening 
correctly, don't go buy a new prop like I did, but check first that the clutch 
is fully engaging 

Since I had the transmission rebuilt it's probably not the transmission itself 
but may be that the shift lever throw isn't long enough and its not fully 
engaging. So, reversing the lever arm and checking to see if the transmission 
is fully engaging (by shifting it into gear at the transmission) is my next 
step. 

By the way, last night was the first time the sails were hoisted and the boat 
sailed and we managed to win line honors and a second place finish against 
others for whom its their 3rd race. 

Dave J 
Saltaire 
C 35Mk3 
Bristol, RI 
- Original Message -

From: "ALAN BERGEN"  
To: davidjaco...@comcast.net 
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 10:50:10 PM 
Subject: Awful Vibration 

Dave: 

This is how the shift cable linkage should look. The vibration could be: prop 
out of balance, bad engine mounts, bad cutlass bearing, bent shaft, prop blades 
not opening all the way. 

I replaced my folding, two blade Gori prop with a three blade Maxi prop. 
Expensive, but well worth it. No vibration and good stopping action in reverse. 

My engine is a 3GM f (20 hp). 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Crack at trailing edge of lower spreader on LF38

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Bob,

I had the same spreader problem (wear from a previous owner not tying off
the steel cable halyard).   In the end the best solution was to remake the
spreaders.  Bay sailing equipment, 986 cherry street, Fall River,
Frank:   508 678 4419  has the original C extrusion and did the work.
It is indistinguishable from the original.I don't remember the cost.


David


On Thu, Jun 16, 2016 at 9:03 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the comments!
>
> Cracks in aluminum have a tendency to propagate--so, small cracks can turn
> into bigger problems.  Since this is easy to fix here and difficult to fix
> later in the Bahamas, I'm fixing it here.  I am having my spreaders removed
> (one at a time) and having them weld repaired and reinstalled in the middle
> of July when we return from our month-long sailing trip in the Chesapeake
> Bay.  One crack is the lower starboard spreader was worse than the small
> crack in the lower port spreader.  My rigger thought my rigging was a bit
> loose and this may have caused the cracks in the spreaders.
>
> The spreaders are under compressive load and a crack along an outer edge
> (if large enough) can reduce the compressive load capability.  As Andy
> pointed out, if a spreader fails while sailing, your rig comes down and
> ruins your day.  Also, on a sailboat there many things that can ruin your
> day--it pays to correct the problems that you can identify.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> On Jun 16, 2016, at 7:39 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I would be very concerned about any crack in the spreaders. If they fail,
> the mast falls down, which some people find terribly off-putting.
>
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Lorne,

Every boat’s throttle settings are designed so that you push a lever forward to 
go faster forward and back to slow the boat down.  Any other orientation is 
completely counterintuitive and would not be an acceptable application for any 
production boat builder.  In an Edson pedestal, there’s no way to hook up the 
throttle so that the cable is “pushed” to go faster in forward, only pulled.  
Your engine controls are likely to be covered in this document:

http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/installation/EB396EngineControlInstr.PDF

 

That said, the only way your throttle controls would be “reversed” if someone 
were to have changed how the cable connected to the secondary fuel pump rack on 
the diesel and even then, the throttle on the diesel is opened by a cable 
pulling the lever on the engine, not pushing.  

Given your lack of proximity to the boat, I wouldn’t attempt to diagnose this 
problem from afar.  If you’re under such a tight time line, hire a mechanic 
with sailboat diesel experience to straighten this out prior to your arrival.  
Yes it will cost you a few dollars to do so, and while you’re at it, have the 
mechanic change the raw water pump impeller, clean out the accumulated debris 
from the bottom of the fuel tank, change fuel filters and strainers, bleed the 
fuel lines and run the diesel up to operating temperature.  These are not items 
that will be called out in your survey, but are part of the routine annual 
maintenance that should be performed on the boat, especially when it has been 
idle for several months.

 

With the rush that you’ll be in  to get the boat ready and off the dock, you 
don’t want to get a mile from the marina and have the engine conk out on you.  
Once you get the boat where it needs to go, then take the time to get to know 
your engine and how everything works, or better yet, take a class on basic 
diesel mechanics or buy Nigel Calder’s book on Diesel engine maintenance and 
read up before you get to the boat.

 

I hope this helps

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne Serpa 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 1:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed

 

Thinking about it,  the transmission would be reversed not the throttle right? 
.  How would I reverse that?  Survey says it's a Kanzaki transmission. 

On Jun 15, 2016 11:50 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  > wrote:

I'm going over my survey which I was not present for.  I'm 2000 miles  from my 
boat at this time... But the survey person said my throttle is reversed.  How 
would I fix this?  Is it likely backwards on the helm side or on the engine 
side at the carburetor /throttle valve?  Why would the PO have it reversed to 
begin with? 
I'd like to know in advance of me arriving so I know what kind of task I have 
ahead of time and tools/parts I might need.   I need to sail away within a day 
of arriving to pick it up and would have one day to repair /reverse it to 
correct direction ASAP. 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Crack at trailing edge of lower spreader on LF38

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the comments!

Cracks in aluminum have a tendency to propagate--so, small cracks can turn into 
bigger problems.  Since this is easy to fix here and difficult to fix later in 
the Bahamas, I'm fixing it here.  I am having my spreaders removed (one at a 
time) and having them weld repaired and reinstalled in the middle of July when 
we return from our month-long sailing trip in the Chesapeake Bay.  One crack is 
the lower starboard spreader was worse than the small crack in the lower port 
spreader.  My rigger thought my rigging was a bit loose and this may have 
caused the cracks in the spreaders.

The spreaders are under compressive load and a crack along an outer edge (if 
large enough) can reduce the compressive load capability.  As Andy pointed out, 
if a spreader fails while sailing, your rig comes down and ruins your day.  
Also, on a sailboat there many things that can ruin your day--it pays to 
correct the problems that you can identify.

Bob

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jun 16, 2016, at 7:39 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would be very concerned about any crack in the spreaders. If they fail, the 
> mast falls down, which some people find terribly off-putting.
> 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

My setup is exactly like Allen’s, with Velcro attachment for the square hatches 
and framed screens for the smaller rectangular hatches.  We tend to use the 
rectangular hatches without the screens when we sleep in the back berth partly 
because of the reduction in airflow, partly because I forget we have them!  For 
the main cabin, the companionway screens are great.  I also have a Velcro 
screen for the v-berth hatch, that can be very useful as well.

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of allen via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2016 7:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

I was referring to the smaller rectangular units.  Their aperture is small 
enough, but the screening cuts the flow to almost nothing. 

 

The companionway screen is large enough to admit a decent amount of air while 
keeping outs birds, bees and assorted flying insects.

 

Allen

 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:09 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Lorne Serpa   

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

Thank you for the info! 

How does the "wood framed screen in the companionway" stop air flow?

 

 

On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 11:41 AM, allen via CnC-List  > wrote:

There are two ports in my main cabin, one in the head and one in the aft cabin 
ceilings, all square.  The "screens" are flexible screening held in by Velcro 
around the edges.  The oblong ports in the head and aft cabin back walls and 
one opening horizontally on to cabin sole are factory made units that came with 
the ports. I have another Velcro held screen in the fore cabin, and a wood 
framed screen in the companionway.

 

We rarely use the framed units because it cuts down the airflow.

 

Allen

 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 1:41 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Lorne Serpa   

Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

The 4 equal size ones in the cabin solon.  Not the large opening hatch/escape 
hatch.

 

On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 9:34 AM, allen via CnC-List  > wrote:

Which ports are you describing?

 

Allen Miles

S/V Septima 

C 30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List   

Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 4:50 PM

To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Lorne Serpa   

Subject: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

 

My new to me 30MKII) 1988) is 2000 miles away,  but wondering if the 4 lewmar 
ports have bug screens in them.  Anyone know?  If not,  where can I get some?  
Thanks. 

  _  

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?

[allen via CnC-List]

I was referring to the smaller rectangular units.  Their aperture is small 
enough, but the screening cuts the flow to almost nothing. 

The companionway screen is large enough to admit a decent amount of air while 
keeping outs birds, bees and assorted flying insects.

Allen


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


Thank you for the info! 
How does the "wood framed screen in the companionway" stop air flow?




On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 11:41 AM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:

  There are two ports in my main cabin, one in the head and one in the aft 
cabin ceilings, all square.  The "screens" are flexible screening held in by 
Velcro around the edges.  The oblong ports in the head and aft cabin back walls 
and one opening horizontally on to cabin sole are factory made units that came 
with the ports. I have another Velcro held screen in the fore cabin, and a wood 
framed screen in the companionway.

  We rarely use the framed units because it cuts down the airflow.

  Allen


  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2016 1:41 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Lorne Serpa 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


  The 4 equal size ones in the cabin solon.  Not the large opening hatch/escape 
hatch.


  On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 9:34 AM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:

Which ports are you describing?

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 
C 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 4:50 PM
To: Cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List 30MKII Screens in the ports?


My new to me 30MKII) 1988) is 2000 miles away,  but wondering if the 4 
lewmar ports have bug screens in them.  Anyone know?  If not,  where can I get 
some?  Thanks. 






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!






--


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!









___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Crack at trailing edge of lower spreader on LF38

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I would be very concerned about any crack in the spreaders. If they fail, the 
mast falls down, which some people find terribly off-putting.

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MKII 2GM throttle reversed

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Thinking about it,  the transmission would be reversed not the throttle
right? .  How would I reverse that?  Survey says it's a Kanzaki
transmission.
On Jun 15, 2016 11:50 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I'm going over my survey which I was not present for.  I'm 2000 miles
> from my boat at this time... But the survey person said my throttle is
> reversed.  How would I fix this?  Is it likely backwards on the helm side
> or on the engine side at the carburetor /throttle valve?  Why would the PO
> have it reversed to begin with?
> I'd like to know in advance of me arriving so I know what kind of task I
> have ahead of time and tools/parts I might need.   I need to sail away
> within a day of arriving to pick it up and would have one day to repair
> /reverse it to correct direction ASAP.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!