Re: Stus-List Relocating the Yanmar key

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Check this out.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 13, 2016 10:26 PM, "Syerdave--- via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Evening all,
> This may be a simple, and possibly stupid question
> The 33-2 has a standard Yanmar control panel, located just above ankle
> height in the cockpit.  The bent-when-I got-it key fits loosely in the worn
> cylinder located in the bottom right corner of the panel.  so, it is quite
> kick able,  (the bend) and the floaty keychain or lanyard is potentially
> underfoot.  In the off position, the key can fall out.
> I had the panel assembly apart, basically cleaning and bulletproofing the
> connections and repairing an intermittent ground and some stripped mounting
> holes, and  noticed the cylinder is, unsurprisingly, a simple single-pole
> switch.
> Has anyone relocated the key to a more secure location below, and
> installed in its place in the panel a second in-series switch?   Can anyone
> see a reason why one would not do this?
>
> Thanks, Dave.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[tom via CnC-List]

Constantly, every Wednesday and as many weekends as possible.
Sometimes tough as we find six crew is what we need in a breeze.
We rate 162 here as we only use a 135% on a furler.
Tom Oryniak
33-1 "Carry On"
New Jersey

On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 10:22 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm curious: How many of you guys race every Wednesday night?
>
>
> Antoine said : "I do have the shoal draft version (4? 3") and race it
> every Wednesday in our club"
>
> I do too.
>
> We look forward to it all week :-)  It's a great break in the middle of
> the week and a good place to meet like minded sailors..
>
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy,

For some odd reason your pump questions reminds me of an old story..

A penguin is driving his car down the road. All 
of a sudden he hears noises coming from the car, and he gets upset.
So the first gas station he comes to, he pulls in 
and he says “I have a noise in my car”.

The mechanic says “Let me take a look at it, it'll take about an hour.”
The penguin says, “ok, I see an ice cream place 
across the street and I like ice cream, so I’m gonna go over there”.
So the penguin goes over and has ice cream. He 
eats the ice cream and has a good time and when 
he finishes he goes back and says to the mechanic, “so hows my car?”

and the guy says “I think you blew a seal”
and the penguin goes “No no, that’s ice cream!”.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:00 AM 13/07/2016, you wrote:
Thanks all, for the manual bilge pump 
suggestions.  As recommended I will take the 
unit apart to check the flappers, diaphragm, and 
sealing surface.  If/when all that is in order, 
I'll move on to check the hose with a shop vac for leaks.


Fair winds.
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Relocating the Yanmar key

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

A J30 I work on has the ignition switch inside a cockpit locker very close
to the engine control panel.  Very protected location.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 9:26 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Evening all,
> This may be a simple, and possibly stupid question
> The 33-2 has a standard Yanmar control panel, located just above ankle
> height in the cockpit.  The bent-when-I got-it key fits loosely in the worn
> cylinder located in the bottom right corner of the panel.  so, it is quite
> kick able,  (the bend) and the floaty keychain or lanyard is potentially
> underfoot.  In the off position, the key can fall out.
> I had the panel assembly apart, basically cleaning and bulletproofing the
> connections and repairing an intermittent ground and some stripped mounting
> holes, and  noticed the cylinder is, unsurprisingly, a simple single-pole
> switch.
> Has anyone relocated the key to a more secure location below, and
> installed in its place in the panel a second in-series switch?   Can anyone
> see a reason why one would not do this?
>
> Thanks, Dave.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Relocating the Yanmar key

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Evening all,
This may be a simple, and possibly stupid question
The 33-2 has a standard Yanmar control panel, located just above ankle height 
in the cockpit.  The bent-when-I got-it key fits loosely in the worn cylinder 
located in the bottom right corner of the panel.  so, it is quite kick able,  
(the bend) and the floaty keychain or lanyard is potentially underfoot.  In the 
off position, the key can fall out.
I had the panel assembly apart, basically cleaning and bulletproofing the 
connections and repairing an intermittent ground and some stripped mounting 
holes, and  noticed the cylinder is, unsurprisingly, a simple single-pole 
switch.
Has anyone relocated the key to a more secure location below, and installed in 
its place in the panel a second in-series switch?   Can anyone see a reason why 
one would not do this?

Thanks, Dave.



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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Chris.  Good to know rot is not a concern.  The stanchion bends are
subtle and not creased so a vice should be able to straighten.

RE: vertical cracks on stanchion bases.  I'll check this too as you
recommend, although I'm having trouble picturing this without being on the
boat with the stanchions in front of me.  I'm sure I'll it will become
clearer when at the boat.


On Wednesday, July 13, 2016, Chris Duer

> Assuming we're not talking about severe enough bends that the stanchion
> has a crease, that is a reasonable plan.  There likely isn't any rot
> because the deck core terminates before the stanchions and toe rail.
>
> Check your stanchion bases for vertical cracks on the outboard side (in
> line with the set screws).  You may need to replace them, I did on my 1978
> 34.
>
> Chris Duer
> 1978 C&C 34 #117
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I haven't messed with my stanchions, but I've had success rebedding other
deck hardware with butyl tape.  There's a useful guide here that also
discusses the reasons to use butyl as opposed to 4200:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

It's by a guy who sells butyl tape, so who knows, but it makes sense to me
and I found his method to be straightforward and effective.  I didn't trust
myself to get the wait-and-tighten technique right with 4200.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 5:07 PM, Chris Duer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Assuming we're not talking about severe enough bends that the stanchion
> has a crease, that is a reasonable plan.  There likely isn't any rot
> because the deck core terminates before the stanchions and toe rail.
>
> Check your stanchion bases for vertical cracks on the outboard side (in
> line with the set screws).  You may need to replace them, I did on my 1978
> 34.
>
> Chris Duer
> 1978 C&C 34 #117
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 13, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The stanchions on my '78 C&C 34 are wobbly and some are bent.  They also
> leak a bit.  The previous owner told me I should:
>
> 1. take the stanchions off and straighten the bent ones in a vice
> 2. clean stanchions and the holes in prep for re-bedding
> 3. re-bed with 3M 4200 but don't tighten fully
> 4. once the 4200 has cured, snug them up
>
> Is this the way I should do it?
>
> I'm thinking I should also look out for rot and learn how to solve that in
> case I find it.
>
> I have a feeling I should eventually re-bed all the deck hardware but one
> thing at time :)
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

[Chris Duer via CnC-List]

Assuming we're not talking about severe enough bends that the stanchion has a 
crease, that is a reasonable plan.  There likely isn't any rot because the deck 
core terminates before the stanchions and toe rail.

Check your stanchion bases for vertical cracks on the outboard side (in line 
with the set screws).  You may need to replace them, I did on my 1978 34.

Chris Duer
1978 C&C 34 #117

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 13, 2016, at 6:59 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The stanchions on my '78 C&C 34 are wobbly and some are bent.  They also leak 
> a bit.  The previous owner told me I should:
> 
> 1. take the stanchions off and straighten the bent ones in a vice
> 2. clean stanchions and the holes in prep for re-bedding
> 3. re-bed with 3M 4200 but don't tighten fully
> 4. once the 4200 has cured, snug them up
> 
> Is this the way I should do it?  
> 
> I'm thinking I should also look out for rot and learn how to solve that in 
> case I find it. 
> 
> I have a feeling I should eventually re-bed all the deck hardware but one 
> thing at time :)
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Stus-List stanchion re-bedding

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

The stanchions on my '78 C&C 34 are wobbly and some are bent.  They also
leak a bit.  The previous owner told me I should:

1. take the stanchions off and straighten the bent ones in a vice
2. clean stanchions and the holes in prep for re-bedding
3. re-bed with 3M 4200 but don't tighten fully
4. once the 4200 has cured, snug them up

Is this the way I should do it?

I'm thinking I should also look out for rot and learn how to solve that in
case I find it.

I have a feeling I should eventually re-bed all the deck hardware but one
thing at time :)

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Andrew

This looks pretty close to home for you...http://www.vicmaui.org/crewbank

Check the Race Tracker too.  The Vic Maui race started a few days ago 
and 1/2 the fleet is becalmed and the rest is facing a huge 
storm.  Looks like exactly what you're looking for!


Hope to see you at the Rendesvous on Thetis next month.  www.candcwest.org

Tom B


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

At 09:00 AM 7/13/2016, you wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 23:46:28 -0700
From: Andrew Means 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has
convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross
oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San
Juans/etc. and feel like I?d be fairly useful addition to most crews.

If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of
sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody
else?s boat), how would you go about it?
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Stus-List Dye checking and rig cracks

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

A couple years after I bought Touche', I had the rig out to rebuild the
mast step.  I dye checked most of the fittings and didn't find any cracks.
Felt better about the rig after that.

A few years later I was working on a client boat.  We were inspecting the
rigging and found a cracked turnbuckle.  The crack was on the inside of an
open turnbuckle. The crack was visible to the eye.  Didn't need dye.
Important to note, it was only visible because we had loosened the
turnbuckle enough to where we could see the entire inside of the open
turnbuckle.  It was not visible on the outside of the turnbuckle body.
With the turnbuckle tight, the crack was hidden by the threads of the jaw.
We replaced it.

Point is, the potential exists for rig failures.  Be diligent about
inspecting each and every fitting.  Dye is only one tool.  Your eyeball may
be just as good if the crack is significant.

Also, just as a reminder, your fore stay and back stay needs to have at
least two axis of rotation at each end.  That is fittings which have two
pins at right angles to each other.  Failure to have two can result in
stress on the attachment fitting (chain plate or tang).

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 2:31 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I just google it... This stuff is amazing... Thanks!
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Thanks...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 11:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

I think it is fine. You just need to scrub a little acid on that area to remove 
the  surface iron



Bill Coleman


 Original message 
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List 
Date: 7/12/16 21:16 (GMT-05:00)
To: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sam Salter 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

Go sailing!

sam :-)
From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Subject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update



So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface 
corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked 
before:


http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg


I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:


http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg


Here is after developer is applied:


http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg


I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on 
the surface...


Any thoughts?


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD

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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Awesome... Thanks...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 10:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update


Like Sam says.

no indication of cracking, very slight porosity in areas not polished enough

 cheers, Russ


At 06:16 PM 12/07/2016, you wrote:
>Go sailing!
>
>sam :-)




>So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems
>like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but
>nothing like how it looked before:
>
>I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the
>blemishes on the surface...
>
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>
>Cheers,
>Aaron R.


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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

You're right... I work on it this weekend... Thanks!


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 11:45 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update


It looks better, certainly less menacing than before, but I would work it to a 
mirror shine.  The crack can be hard to see with the scratch lines but very 
easy to see when it is mirror smooth.  At least get a swirl pattern or lines 
that run perpendicular to the "crack".  You're so much closer to a satisfactory 
answer it only makes sense to get it that little extra bit.   You are wet 
sanding right?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 12, 2016 7:40 PM, "Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface 
corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked 
before:


http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg


I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:


http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg


Here is after developer is applied:


http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg


I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on 
the surface...


Any thoughts?


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD

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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Thanks...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of 
svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 2:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svpegasu...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update


What you will see in a die-penatrent of a full blown crack is a solid line, as 
obossed to the corrision pitting seen in this case. It will be very obvious.


Doug Mountjoy

svPegasus

LF38 #4

just west of Ballard, WA.



-- Original message--

From: S Thomas via CnC-List

Date: Tue, Jul 12, 2016 22:45

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;

Cc: S Thomas;

Subject:Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update


I would like to know how to tell the difference between this, if it is not a 
problem, and the dreaded crevice crack corrosion that we are so constantly 
being warned about.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
- Original Message -
From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 19:38
Subject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update


So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface 
corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked 
before:


http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg


I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:


http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg


Here is after developer is applied:


http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg


I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on 
the surface...


Any thoughts?


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I just google it... This stuff is amazing... Thanks!


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 9:27 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

Google "dye penetrant crack" and go to images.  There are many examples of 
actual cracks revealed by dye checks.

The polished chain plate did not show evidence of a serious crack.

Dennis C,

On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 12:45 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I would like to know how to tell the difference between this, if it is not a 
problem, and the dreaded crevice crack corrosion that we are so constantly 
being warned about.

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII



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Re: Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Take the Safety at Sea course.  It is invaluable and makes you much more
attractive as a crew member.

Have the proper gear - foulies, boots, gloves, inflatable PFD with harness
and tether, headlight, water bottle, coffee mug

Do some overnight cruising, even if a cruise to nowhere.  Get used to a 3
hour watch in the middle of the night.  Steer by compass or instrument with
no reference point other than a star or two.

Try to do some deliveries.  Racers often need return crew, so get on crew
boards for distance races.

Sail in conditions you would avoid.  You don't get to choose your weather
on day 4 or 14 of an ocean voyage.  Get comfortable with 30 knot winds and
8 foot seas.  Remember, forces go up exponentially as wind doubles.

Joel


On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 1:20 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would go around the local sailing clubs and figure out who's a pro
> delivery captn' They are often looking for crew. Typical deal: You pay your
> way to and form the boat, you "work" for free but you get the experience
> you want.
>
> Best of luck.
>
> Regards,
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
> My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has
> convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross
> oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San
> Juans/etc. and feel like I?d be fairly useful addition to most crews.
>
> If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of
> sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody
> else?s boat), how would you go about it?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[svpegasus38]

body{font-family:Helvetica,Arial;font-size:13px}

Andrew,  have you heard of the Puget Sound Cruising Club (PSCC)? We meet 
every 3rd friday at the NSCC library hall. And go on a cruise the following 
weekend. There are members that are or have sailed all over the world. I am 
sure you can find someone looking for crew. Maybe not to Hawaii, but someplace 
across the great blue ocean.  Come check us out, there at least 2 other listers 
that are members. 

Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Andrew Means via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jul 12, 
2016 23:47To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Andrew Means;Subject:Stus-List Offshore 
passages as crew - where to start?
My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has convinced 
me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross oceans. I have a 
fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San Juans/etc. and feel 
like I’d be fairly useful addition to most crews.
If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of 
sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody else’s 
boat), how would you go about it? 
-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk ISeattle, WA

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Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I would go around the local sailing clubs and figure out who's a pro 
delivery captn' They are often looking for crew. Typical deal: You pay 
your way to and form the boat, you "work" for free but you get the 
experience you want. 

Best of luck. 

Regards, 
Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, GA
 



My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has
convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross
oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San
Juans/etc. and feel like I?d be fairly useful addition to most crews.

If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of
sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody
else?s boat), how would you go about it?

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA


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Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks all, for the manual bilge pump suggestions.  As recommended I
will take the unit apart to check the flappers, diaphragm, and sealing
surface.  If/when all that is in order, I'll move on to check the hose with
a shop vac for leaks.

Fair winds.
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I had trouble getting my whale gusher working at the start of the season. I 
found some small holes in the bilge hose where it passed under the Atomic-4, 
which I wrapped with duct tape. The PO said he had to pump the handle fast to 
get the suction going, and he was right. Once I did both those things it worked 
reliably for a couple months. I could tell when water got into the pump because 
there was a lot more resistance to the handle motion. 

But just this past weekend I think I blew something out inside the pump itself. 
I was pumping fast to prime the pump, and something gave way. The handle moves 
farther outboard than before, and there is less resistance than before even 
without water in the pump. I haven't gotten in there yet to see what's going 
on. If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears. 

Thanks, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ken Heaton"  
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 7:16:36 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump 

On our boat, after years of exposure to small amounts of oily water in the 
bilge, the manual bilge pump hose became brittle for the first 8" or so of it 
length and cracked across, just above the foot valve. The internal spiral wire 
held it together and hid the crack. This was the white, spiral type of hose. 

I replaced the first two feet or so of hose with a better quality rubber hose. 
The rest of the hose, over its entire length was quite pliable so we did not 
change that until last year when we were doing some other work anyway. 

Ken H. 

On 13 July 2016 at 09:37, Marek Fluder via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Jeremy, 

Recently I was able to troubleshoot inefficient manual bilge pump with blowing 
air from shop-vac into the bilge end of the hose. 
A small hole in the hose close to the pump became evident pretty quickly. 
I lucked out that it was in an accessible spot. 

Marek 
C320 
Hamilton, ON 



On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 8:33 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working. I believe it's original. 

My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to get 
the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump and 
ensuring there is suction there. Then replace the hose and ensure a good seal. 

Any words of wisdom from the group on this ? 

Thanks, 
Jeremy 



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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[RANDY via CnC-List]

"Racing numbers are down everywhere". Edd where can I find published data on 
that? 

I'm doing that analysis right now for my club, using published race results 
dating back to (only) 2012 to study the number of boats racing each year. I 
haven't finished the analysis yet, but I can already tell we're down at least 
20% from 2012. We seem to be holding at about 28 boats across six fleets for 
the last two years. We gain a boat or two each year, but we lose a boat or two 
each year. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Edd Schillay"  
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 8:18:01 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing 

Great article, Don. Thanks for sharing. 

The trend is a little more bleak in Western LI Sound. Racing numbers are down 
everywhere. Years ago, our Wednesday Night series had around 125 boats with 9 
divisions. Now we are around 30 and 4 divisions. 

One of the four clubs on City Island just closed its doors for good. Sad to see 
the decline. 

All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







On Jul 12, 2016, at 8:53 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2016/07/12/summer-tradition-still-going-strong/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016&utm_content=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016+CID_9b7e47dad615547db1dfe51d875d17cd&utm_source=Email%20Newsletter&utm_term=Summer%20Tradition%20Still%20Going%20Strong
 


Don 

Don Harben 
Viking 34 
Life 
www.ncyc.ca 
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greatly appreciated! 





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Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Great article, Don. Thanks for sharing. 

The trend is a little more bleak in Western LI Sound. Racing numbers are down 
everywhere. Years ago, our Wednesday Night series had around 125 boats with 9 
divisions. Now we are around 30 and 4 divisions. 

One of the four clubs on City Island just closed its doors for good. Sad to see 
the decline. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




> On Jul 12, 2016, at 8:53 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2016/07/12/summer-tradition-still-going-strong/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016&utm_content=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016+CID_9b7e47dad615547db1dfe51d875d17cd&utm_source=Email%20Newsletter&utm_term=Summer%20Tradition%20Still%20Going%20Strong
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Don
> 
> Don Harben
> Viking 34
> Life
> www.ncyc.ca 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Google "dye penetrant crack" and go to images.  There are many examples of
actual cracks revealed by dye checks.

The polished chain plate did not show evidence of a serious crack.

Dennis C,

On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 12:45 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would like to know how to tell the difference between this, if it is not
> a problem, and the dreaded crevice crack corrosion that we are so
> constantly being warned about.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

On our boat, after years of exposure to small amounts of oily water in the
bilge, the manual bilge pump hose became brittle for the first 8" or so of
it length and cracked across, just above the foot valve.  The internal
spiral wire held it together and hid the crack.  This was the white, spiral
type of hose.

I replaced the first two feet or so of hose with a better quality rubber
hose.  The rest of the hose, over its entire length was quite pliable so we
did not change that until last year when we were doing some other work
anyway.

Ken H.

On 13 July 2016 at 09:37, Marek Fluder via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Jeremy,
>
> Recently I was able to troubleshoot inefficient manual bilge pump with
> blowing air from shop-vac into the bilge end of the hose.
> A small hole in the hose close to the pump became evident pretty quickly.
> I lucked out that it was in an accessible spot.
>
> Marek
> C320
> Hamilton, ON
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 8:33 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working.  I believe it's
>> original.
>>
>> My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to
>> get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump
>> and ensuring there is suction there.  Then replace the hose and ensure a
>> good seal.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom from the group on this?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>   Jeremy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump

[Marek Fluder via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

Recently I was able to troubleshoot inefficient manual bilge pump with
blowing air from shop-vac into the bilge end of the hose.
A small hole in the hose close to the pump became evident pretty quickly.
I lucked out that it was in an accessible spot.

Marek
C320
Hamilton, ON



On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 8:33 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working.  I believe it's
> original.
>
> My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to
> get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump
> and ensuring there is suction there.  Then replace the hose and ensure a
> good seal.
>
> Any words of wisdom from the group on this?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Tofino Video

[Andrew Means via CnC-List]

In other emails I mentioned our recent excursion to Tofino, BC. It was
achingly gorgeous, stressful, and hilarious, and we had some fantastic
sailing. Here's some video I shot during the trip.

https://youtu.be/YiByUK76AYs

Hope you enjoy it!

-- 
Andrew Means
S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I
Seattle, WA
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