Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

You can minimize the air bubbles in epoxy coatings by applying to a warm
surface and letting it cool with the epoxy on it, so the epoxy is drawn in
to the surface instead of having the surface outgassing. A warming surface
will generate small bubbles. Also, flaming the epoxy with just a light
brush of a propane torch will pop most bubbles.

That said, I used Varathane semi-gloss and three strips of 1" grip tape cut
to fit on each step. Epoxy is just too much hassle to refinish.
http://members.shaw.ca/paradigm/steps.jpg



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



>
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Re: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

[evans.in.gibsons via CnC-List]

If you can't  close your through-hulls it is time for a haul out to fix them.  
When you haul out, replace the hoses as they will allow growth.  Vinegar down 
the scuppers once a month will help reduce the growth but nothing will stop it.
When you replace the ball valves,  you must operate them once a month to keep 
them clear.  Failing to close and open them regularly will result in build up 
that will eventually render them useless.

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
Date: 08-29-2016  7:35 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains 




Hi Jeremy,


when we got our boat the cockpit drains would not. A toilet plunger got
things moving again. Don't give up early on it and a bit of water around
the plunger is a good idea too.


Cheers,
Russ

Sweet
35 mk-1


At 03:16 PM 29/08/2016, you wrote:

Just got back from a lovely trip
to the gulf islands, crossing the Strait of Georgia for my first time in
our 78Â C 34-1


Now cleaning up after the kids made a mess of the cockpit and the drains
are clogged.  Originally just one was clogged, but I stuck a small
sink snake in and have clogged the other one too. There were some otters
making a mess of mussel shells one time and I think some went down the
drains. Â 


What I have tried:

- blasting water down

- small snake

- shop vac blow and suck (not completely vacuumed sealed into the hose
just held tight to the drain)

- shutting and opening thru hulls - they aren't closing very well and I
hear a sound like mussel shells when I close them


Ideas:

- go for a swim and poke a screw driver in from the water

- close seacock, remove hose and check it. I'm worried it isn't shutting
properly due to the cloggage though and don't want an surprise ingress of
water while I'm contorting myself into the bilge to remove the hose
clamps


Any advice?


Thanks,


  Jeremy

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!___

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Re: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy,

when we got our boat the cockpit drains would 
not. A toilet plunger got things moving again. 
Don't give up early on it and a bit of water 
around the plunger is a good idea too.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 03:16 PM 29/08/2016, you wrote:
Just got back from a lovely trip to the gulf 
islands, crossing the Strait of Georgia for my first time in our 78Â C 34-1


Now cleaning up after the kids made a mess of 
the cockpit and the drains are 
clogged.  Originally just one was clogged, but 
I stuck a small sink snake in and have clogged 
the other one too. There were some otters making 
a mess of mussel shells one time and I think some went down the drains. Â


What I have tried:
- blasting water down
- small snake
- shop vac blow and suck (not completely 
vacuumed sealed into the hose just held tight to the drain)
- shutting and opening thru hulls - they aren't 
closing very well and I hear a sound like mussel shells when I close them


Ideas:
- go for a swim and poke a screw driver in from the water
- close seacock, remove hose and check it. I'm 
worried it isn't shutting properly due to the 
cloggage though and don't want an surprise 
ingress of water while I'm contorting myself 
into the bilge to remove the hose clamps


Any advice?

Thanks,

  Jeremy
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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

For a short term fix just use tape to seal the window – be careful not to 
stretch it too much

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 5:55 PM
To: Franklin Schenk
Cc: Jeremy Ralph; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak

 

 

I finally got to looking at the windows again. The screws are about 12" apart. 
Ill try tightening but sounds like I may need to add more screws.

Thanks,

  Jeremy

On Monday, 8 August 2016, Franklin Schenk  > wrote:

As a lazy person I try the easy things first like tightening the screws.  What 
is the spacing of the screws?  6 to 8 inches is about right.

 

Frank

 

On Monday, August 8, 2016 1:31 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Our first season with a 1978 C 34-1.  The PO re-did the windows using 
plexiglass over the openings bedded with Sudbury Sealant (found half the tube 
on the boat) and screws.  One window has a slight leak that seems to come in 
from the top of the plexi where water can collect.  I'd like to do a quick fix 
for the rest of the cursing season, then a more involved longer term solution 
(if required) when the season is over.  Any tips?

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

 


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Re: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

 

The seacocks can trap larger items.  You may want to use a wooden dowel from 
down below to loosen up the clog.  If that doesn’t work you may need to remove 
the cockpit drain hoses to clear them out.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 18:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

 

Just got back from a lovely trip to the gulf islands, crossing the Strait of 
Georgia for my first time in our 78 C 34-1

 

Now cleaning up after the kids made a mess of the cockpit and the drains are 
clogged.  Originally just one was clogged, but I stuck a small sink snake in 
and have clogged the other one too. There were some otters making a mess of 
mussel shells one time and I think some went down the drains.  

 

What I have tried:

- blasting water down

- small snake

- shop vac blow and suck (not completely vacuumed sealed into the hose just 
held tight to the drain)

- shutting and opening thru hulls - they aren't closing very well and I hear a 
sound like mussel shells when I close them

 

Ideas:

- go for a swim and poke a screw driver in from the water

- close seacock, remove hose and check it. I'm worried it isn't shutting 
properly due to the cloggage though and don't want an surprise ingress of water 
while I'm contorting myself into the bilge to remove the hose clamps

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks,

 

  Jeremy

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Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Contact or magnetic, either way, be careful when you sit down. :)



Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: August-29-16 18:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

Mines under the Nav seat. 
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840



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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Graham Young via CnC-List]

Would using an epoxy like this make any difference?
Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

|   |
|   |  |   |   |   |   |   |
| Clear Penetrating Epoxy SealerCongratulations!  You've come to the right 
place. We Invented the Modern Technology that Restores Deteriorated Wood and 
Cures Paint & Varnish Failure.™  |
|  |
| View on www.smithandcompan... | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |



Graham 
1981 C 32 # 107Spellbound 

On Monday, August 29, 2016 5:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I did 
that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set of 
flooring I simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it 
off with a coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish 
and didn’t care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and 
undersides, where it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.
Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:

Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that 
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.    Second best reason 
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  Yer basic general purpose epoxy is 
too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy 
degrades in uv.  (Requires varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be 
varnishing).  If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on 
bar tables and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on 
coating.  Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2





Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: Stevan Plavsa , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
   
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
Message-ID:
   <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've grown fond of using Sikens SDR natural teak on most of my ”durable"
wood work.  The SDR stands for siding, deck, and roof.  For finish work I
use danish oil as a base and lemon oil on top.  Both of those combinations
produce a very natural look and feel that is easy to repair.  I have not
sought out a gloss finish but I fear that it will be more work to achieve
and maintain.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 29, 2016 2:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
>
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
>
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?
> Stick to non-skid tape?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I sanded and refinished the companionway steps with semigloss marine poly.  A 
week later a friend slipped down the stairs and broke his foot. You can write 
your own moral of the story.  Jerry. J  C 27-5.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2016, at 6:02 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would use Grip-Tex nonskid in the varnish the beads are clear so they won't 
> look bad. 
> But I don't finish my steps. I like the nonskid properties of raw teak. 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> PO Box 632
> Newport, RI 
> USA 02840
> 
> +401 965 5260
> 
> 
>> On Aug 29, 2016, at 14:00, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
>> 
>> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
>> 
>> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  
>> Stick to non-skid tape?
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Window Leak

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Quick fixes rarely last very long.  However, if it's just till the end of
the season, try using vinyl tape.  The more screws you have, the more
problems you'll have.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

I finally got to looking at the windows again. The screws are about 12"
apart. Ill try tightening but sounds like I may need to add more screws.
Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Stus-List Clogged cockpit drains

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Just got back from a lovely trip to the gulf islands, crossing the Strait
of Georgia for my first time in our 78 C 34-1

Now cleaning up after the kids made a mess of the cockpit and the drains
are clogged.  Originally just one was clogged, but I stuck a small sink
snake in and have clogged the other one too. There were some otters making
a mess of mussel shells one time and I think some went down the drains.

What I have tried:
- blasting water down
- small snake
- shop vac blow and suck (not completely vacuumed sealed into the hose just
held tight to the drain)
- shutting and opening thru hulls - they aren't closing very well and I
hear a sound like mussel shells when I close them

Ideas:
- go for a swim and poke a screw driver in from the water
- close seacock, remove hose and check it. I'm worried it isn't shutting
properly due to the cloggage though and don't want an surprise ingress of
water while I'm contorting myself into the bilge to remove the hose clamps

Any advice?

Thanks,

  Jeremy
___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I would use Grip-Tex nonskid in the varnish the beads are clear so they won't 
look bad. 
But I don't finish my steps. I like the nonskid properties of raw teak. 
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


> On Aug 29, 2016, at 14:00, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
> 
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
> 
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  
> Stick to non-skid tape?
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Mines under the Nav seat. 
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


> On Aug 29, 2016, at 16:48, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey there.  I just upgraded my auto pilot to a Raymarine EV 100 wheel pilot.  
> Any suggestions where to mount the course computer and sensor core?The 
> control head will be placed where the existing control head is mounted beside 
> the companionway.Right now the gyro compass as mounted at the foot of the 
> quarter-berth.  Also can I connect it to my Garmin Echomap Dv 70 plotter.  
> 
> 
> Much appreciated
> 
> Adam
> State of Bliss
> C 36
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Re EV 100 autopilot

[Dave via CnC-List]

I have the same unit.   Control head at helm.
n2k 5 port, GPS antenna, and autopilot pieces at foot of quarter berth.
Happy with that.

Dave.  33-2



From: Adam Hayden 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot
Message-ID:


   

   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hey there.  I just upgraded my auto pilot to a Raymarine EV 100 wheel pilot.  
Any suggestions where to mount the course computer and sensor core?The control 
head will be placed where the existing control head is mounted beside the 
companionway.Right now the gyro compass as mounted at the foot of the 
quarter-berth.  Also can I connect it to my Garmin Echomap Dv 70 plotter.  

Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Of course, because I’m a ham-fisted emailer, I linked to the wrong item. This 

 may make more sense…

Confusedly,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Aug 29, 2016, at 5:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I 
> did that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set 
>  of flooring I 
> simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it off with a 
> coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish and didn’t 
> care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and undersides, where 
> it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.
> 
> Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is 
>> that it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best 
>> reason is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
>> Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy 
>> varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires 
>> varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
>>  If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
>> and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating. 
>>  
>> Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
>> Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
>> 
>> Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
>> From: "Hoyt, Mike" >
>> To: Stevan Plavsa >, 
>> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com "
>>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
>> Message-ID:
>><169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com 
>> >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Steve
>> 
>> In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
>> their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 
>> 26 Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.
>> 
>> This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of 
>> Andy and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch 
>> teak and holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  
>> There were no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as 
>> well.  Note that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees 
>> Fahrenheit or 10 Celsius.
>> 
>> It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in 
>> favour of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result
>> 
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> Halifax
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fixing window leak

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

I finally got to looking at the windows again. The screws are about 12"
apart. Ill try tightening but sounds like I may need to add more screws.
Thanks,
  Jeremy

On Monday, 8 August 2016, Franklin Schenk > wrote:

> As a lazy person I try the easy things first like tightening the screws.
> What is the spacing of the screws?  6 to 8 inches is about right.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Monday, August 8, 2016 1:31 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Our first season with a 1978 C 34-1.  The PO re-did the windows using
> plexiglass over the openings bedded with Sudbury Sealant (found half the
> tube on the boat) and screws.  One window has a slight leak that seems to
> come in from the top of the plexi where water can collect.  I'd like to do
> a quick fix for the rest of the cursing season, then a more involved longer
> term solution (if required) when the season is over.  Any tips?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I did 
that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set 
 of flooring I 
simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it off with a 
coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish and didn’t 
care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and undersides, where 
it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.

Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is 
> that it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best 
> reason is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
> Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy 
> varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires 
> varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
>  If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
> and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating.  
> Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
> Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
> 
> Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" >
> To: Stevan Plavsa >, 
> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com "
>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
> Message-ID:
><169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Steve
> 
> In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
> their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
> Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.
> 
> This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of 
> Andy and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch 
> teak and holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  
> There were no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as 
> well.  Note that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees 
> Fahrenheit or 10 Celsius.
> 
> It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in 
> favour of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Windlass woahs

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hot wire the motor to check if you have worn brushes.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 29, 2016 3:29 PM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello again all!
>
> Another beautiful weekend on  buzzards Bay!  Not as much wind but, still
> got out and about!!
>
> Anyway, I'm having issues with my windlass.  It just doesn't work...
>
> We have not even tried using it this year.  Given the boat being new, we
> decided that we could live without it for the time being and use moorings.
> We want to get it going now.
>
> I got the meter out.  I have power to the breaker, I have power to the
> dual direction solenoid, I have power to the switches.  I even jumped the
> switches and the thing did not power.  It did power up during survey.
>
> While looking around I noticed that the cable lugs bolted to the solenoid
> were not covered and the negative lead was resting on the hot lug.  I'm
> guessing this shorted the solenoid.  However the replacement is $150 and I
> don't want to spend it just to find out that it didn't fix it...
>
> Does anyone have any opinions or insights?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> --
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

Thanks. There doesn’t appear to be anything wrong with the batteries, but I 
haven’t monitored the system all that much. Usually I get on board, head out 
into the Sound, unfurl the jib and accelerate to Warp 7.2 on a reach. 

I think I was just used to the old 5-7W panels that trickle charged. This 40W 
panel is a major difference and I just wanted to be sure all is good (and it 
appears so — Thank you Listers!) Why did I wait so long to do this? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On Aug 29, 2016, at 4:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Seems normal but what I didn't hear you describe was the battery reaching 
> full charge.  The genasun controller will go solid green when it is full.  
> You should also look for volts to reach 14.2v and after 2 hours it should go 
> solid green.
> 
> If it doesn't reach full charge it may just be that there isn't enough sun 
> but if it simply can't then there may be trouble with your batteries.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Aug 29, 2016 3:22 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Listers,
> 
> I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected through a 
> Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.) 
> 
> When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the batteries 
> at 13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun still out, they 
> dropped to 12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less sun or the controller 
> kicking in. 
> 
> Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), does this 
> all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 volts?  Concerned 
> about the battery status, I checked the batteries and the water level in all 
> of them were just fine.
> 
> Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to be and 
> I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — if it’s normal, 
> I’m loving it. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Hey there.  I just upgraded my auto pilot to a Raymarine EV 100 wheel pilot.  
Any suggestions where to mount the course computer and sensor core?The control 
head will be placed where the existing control head is mounted beside the 
companionway.Right now the gyro compass as mounted at the foot of the 
quarter-berth.  Also can I connect it to my Garmin Echomap Dv 70 plotter.  


Much appreciated

Adam
State of Bliss
C 36



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I have had good success by scrubbing the moldy teak with Trisodium Phosphate 
(TSP), rinsing and allowing to dry. I used Helmsman spar urethane satin finish 
on all the interior teak, looks great.___

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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Edd, very normal.

 

The 13.3 V is the charging voltage. 12.8 V (more like 12.7 V) is the fully 
charged resting voltage (with no voltage provided by the solar panel). If you 
had a display, you could check how many Ah (not amps; ampere-hours) you put 
into your batteries. But the 12.7 - 12.8 V resting voltage is very good.

 

Marek

C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 15:22
To: C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

 

Listers,

 

I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected through a 
Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.) 

 

When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the batteries at 
13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun still out, they dropped to 
12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less sun or the controller kicking in. 

 

Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), does this 
all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 volts?  Concerned 
about the battery status, I checked the batteries and the water level in all of 
them were just fine.

 

Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to be and 
I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — if it’s normal, 
I’m loving it. 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 




 






 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

For the anti-skid, Treadmaster make small panels specifically for stairs  ( 
several colors ), or you can put anti-skid for skate boards ( quite agressive 
but it lasts! )
I prefer the treadmaster, they are pre-glued.
SylvainC

  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Joel Aronson 
 Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 2:00 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
   
Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  Stick 
to non-skid tape?

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
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greatly appreciated!


   ___

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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

While charging - higher voltage (13.3 is the charge voltage I get from my
controller, too). When no sun, no charge, voltage drops.
Normal.
My charge controller shows me how many amps I'm making, which I like.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 3:24 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That is working properly. :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 8/29/2016 3:21 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected through
> a Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.)
>
> When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the
> batteries at 13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun still
> out, they dropped to 12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less sun or the
> controller kicking in.
>
> Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), does
> this all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 volts?
> Concerned about the battery status, I checked the batteries and the water
> level in all of them were just fine.
>
> Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to be
> and I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — if it’s
> normal, I’m loving it.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Windlass woahs

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello again all!

Another beautiful weekend on  buzzards Bay!  Not as much wind but, still 
got out and about!!


Anyway, I'm having issues with my windlass.  It just doesn't work...

We have not even tried using it this year.  Given the boat being new, we 
decided that we could live without it for the time being and use 
moorings.  We want to get it going now.


I got the meter out.  I have power to the breaker, I have power to the 
dual direction solenoid, I have power to the switches.  I even jumped 
the switches and the thing did not power.  It did power up during survey.


While looking around I noticed that the cable lugs bolted to the 
solenoid were not covered and the negative lead was resting on the hot 
lug.  I'm guessing this shorted the solenoid.  However the replacement 
is $150 and I don't want to spend it just to find out that it didn't fix 
it...


Does anyone have any opinions or insights?

Thanks!


--
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

That is working properly. :-)

Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 3:21 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected 
through a Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.)


When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the 
batteries at 13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun 
still out, they dropped to 12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less 
sun or the controller kicking in.


Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), 
does this all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 
volts?  Concerned about the battery status, I checked the batteries 
and the water level in all of them were just fine.


Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to 
be and I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — 
if it’s normal, I’m loving it.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







___

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Stus-List Solar Charging -- Normal?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I installed a new 40W panel on the Enterprise last week connected through a 
Gensun charge controller (as recommended by the list.) 

When I got on board this weekend on a very sunny day, I found the batteries at 
13.3 volts. Towards the end of the day, with the sun still out, they dropped to 
12.8. I don’t know if it was due to less sun or the controller kicking in. 

Since I don’t have Fred’s knowledge (also known as Street-Smarts), does this 
all sound to be normal? Will I see charging days of over 13 volts?  Concerned 
about the battery status, I checked the batteries and the water level in all of 
them were just fine.

Do I have any reason to worry or is this what solar power was meant to be and 
I’ve just been missing out for all this time? I have to say — if it’s normal, 
I’m loving it. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 







___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

5-7 coats Epifanes matte or gloss then 3M nonslip treads.

I found some nice nonslip treads at  Overton's for Touche' but can't find
them now.

Here's something similar:
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=StepSafe-Nonslip-Pad=74569

Dennis C.

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
>
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
>
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?
> Stick to non-skid tape?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Lysol wipes work great to kill mold.

Joel

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 3:04 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am considering doing my entire interior in some kind of
> varnish/urethane/etc. Currently, and as delivered, none of the teak below
> (except the sole) has had anything but oil added to the teak--either
> straight linseed oil or lemon scented linseed oil.
>
> Before I do anything, I need to thoroughly clean up the teak cabinets,
> etc. some of which have mold growing on them.
>
> What are the list's thought on cleaning this stuff up before adding a nice
> finish?
>
> I really do not want to mess around with oxalic acid below decks.
> Somewhere I heard borax suggested for the mold, followed by a good soap and
> water cleaning and drying.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Oriental, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I am considering doing my entire interior in some kind of varnish/urethane/etc. 
Currently, and as delivered, none of the teak below (except the sole) has had 
anything but oil added to the teak--either straight linseed oil or lemon 
scented linseed oil.
 
Before I do anything, I need to thoroughly clean up the teak cabinets, etc. 
some of which have mold growing on them.
 
What are the list's thought on cleaning this stuff up before adding a nice 
finish?

I really do not want to mess around with oxalic acid below decks. Somewhere I 
heard borax suggested for the mold, followed by a good soap and water cleaning 
and drying.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental, NC

  
 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Teak can be varnished. Just wipe it down with a clean rag soaked in 
acetone and apply varnish as soon as the acetone dries. You will have 
removed the surface oils. If you wait too long before applying the 
varnish, the oils will resurface.


Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 2:52 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:


Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c 
it releases oils.  But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit 
table?


Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI




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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave via CnC-List]

Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that 
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best reason 
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing, 
(btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires varnish anyway to 
protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
 If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating.  
Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.

Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2






Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: Stevan Plavsa , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
   
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
Message-ID:
   <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I did CPES for two coats, then minwax  satin clear urethane for the stairs.  I 
liked doing the stairs so much, that I ended up doing galley and nav station 
area, but just two coats of urethane.  It came out like a new interior.   
Outside stuff like cockpit table and grab rails, I put epifanes after CPES.  I 
think if I get around to it, I will do the entire interior with minwax satin 
clear this winter.  It will definitely bring the boat value up.  

If you get bubbles, scuff them off with 400 grit or 320.   It will teach you to 
take your time next time.  Varnishing is a test of patience.  You cannot cut 
corners.  

There was a lengthy thread on cruisers forum about this same topic.  The 
consensus was that CPES is just a thinned version of epoxy and it does not add 
anything more.  The truth is, I wanted to get rid of my old cans of CPES which 
I had for years so I figured I get rid of them somewhere useful.  But CPES is 
slow by nature.  If I had to do it over again, I would just thin west systems 
the first coat or two so that it penetrates better.  And definitely either slow 
hardener or do it on a cool dry night. 

Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c it 
releases oils.  But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit table?

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

 

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my 
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I didn't 
even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in three coats 
of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another go over the 
winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air bubbles in the epoxy.

 

Cheers,

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Too hot/too much direct sun leads to bubbles.  Learned that this weekend!

Joel

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my
> cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I
> didn't even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in
> three coats of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another
> go over the winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air
> bubbles in the epoxy.
>
> Cheers,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ¾ inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: Stevan Plavsa [mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my 
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I didn't 
even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in three coats 
of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another go over the 
winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air bubbles in the epoxy.

Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I
didn't even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in
three coats of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another
go over the winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air
bubbles in the epoxy.

Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On my cabin sole that was new this year we did three coats west with slow 
hardener followed by three coats epiphanes matte finish varnish

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 3:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.

Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?

Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  Stick 
to non-skid tape?

--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Non skid varnish seems like a bad idea

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2016, at 14:00, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
> 
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
> 
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  
> Stick to non-skid tape?
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.

Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?

Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?
Stick to non-skid tape?

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Yes, went to big box home depot.  they had several different led  battery under 
Cabinet lights.  mounted under storage in head.   

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, August 29, 2016 Sam Wheeler via CnC-List  
wrote:

Somewhat on this subject, I'm thinking about putting a battery powered light in 
the head so the light in there will work regardless of how the switches are set 
on the main panel.  Has anyone done that?  Any recommendations?


Sam

35-3 Scoundrel

SF


On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 4:27 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I installed 10 ft of LED strip lights behind the teak valance on both sides of 
Pulse, have a goofy idea that I'm going to install a couple of short strips in 
the slot on the underside of the boom in RGB for cockpit lighting. In hind site 
I wish I'd installed RGB in the cabin as well. Purchased mine from Home Depot. 
No problem with them sticking so far, 2 summers in.
Brad
"Pulse" 33 MKII
Lake Huron




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Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Somewhat on this subject, I'm thinking about putting a battery powered
light in the head so the light in there will work regardless of how the
switches are set on the main panel.  Has anyone done that?  Any
recommendations?

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel
SF

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 4:27 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I installed 10 ft of LED strip lights behind the teak valance on both
> sides of Pulse, have a goofy idea that I'm going to install a couple of
> short strips in the slot on the underside of the boom in RGB for cockpit
> lighting. In hind site I wish I'd installed RGB in the cabin as well.
> Purchased mine from Home Depot. No problem with them sticking so far, 2
> summers in.
> Brad
> "Pulse" 33 MKII
> Lake Huron
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Stus-List Help

[JARieber via CnC-List]

Locked out of website. How do I get back in


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Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick


If I  decide to switch, I would likely do the 46 size.it just fits on the 
coaming top and should have the power for the 150..


We sailed in the ONE Regatta over the weekend and both days started out below 
8kts but built to just over 15kts by the finish..that's definitely very 
near the limit for my 150, but we only had 4 crew and changing down to the 135 
was never an option..


I'm still unsure how to select the Pontos winch type,  the "trimmer" is 
suggested as more powerful.but the "grinder" is supposed to be 
faster..we definitely needed both yesterday.


And my useage is only for Genoa work..halyards and such are no problem at 
this time.


Thanks again

Ron


Get Outlook for Android






On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 10:31 PM -0400, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
 wrote:












I got the power ratio numbers from the winch performance information for the 
Grinder 40 on the Defender website.

 

I see that 1st & 2nd gears on the Trimmer are the same as 3rd & 4th on the 
Grinder.

 

14 CM  of line recovery per handle revolution in the fastest gear for the 
Trimmer. One of the metric folks on the list help me… that’s, what, 5.5 inches? 
And 1.4 CM in the lowest gear is about 6/10ths of an inch per revolution?

 

Max working load is 1870 pounds for both the Grinder & Trimmer. I wonder what 
the sheet loads are on a 155 on a 38 mk2 in 15 knots of true wind? According to 
the Harken calculator, for my 135 in 20 knots apparent (which is around 13 or 
14 true) the sheet load is 969 pounds.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2016 5:50 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

 

On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 




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Stus-List Cabin LED Lights

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

Hi Jerry...those are the Perko, combo ac/DC lights? I could not find suitable 
replacements..but..did find ba bases with a 2 prong adaptor for a small LED 
circuit board that had both red and white lights.  Works perfectly.  Turn it 
on...it is red.  Turn it off an Back on...it is white :-) .   Don't remember 
which LED company it came from...marinebeam...Superbright...Hope this 
helps...Spencer Johnson '84 LF38 Alegria #165Racine WI (now just south of 
Frankfort MI starting the trip home. .)

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Re: Stus-List Northeast Rendezvous - Mystic Food Festival

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The "parade" really takes place outside the mouth of the river. They 
gather near the Ledge Lighthouse around 12:30 - 1 pm, and go from there. 
It is quite a spectacle. Bring a camera!


Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 9:23 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
If anyone plans to do this, Thames Yacht Club (my home base) has 
transient moorings and dock space.  One would presumably be able to 
watch the parade from the club (although I have never been around for 
this event).  Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT


On Aug 28, 2016, at 8:27 PM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Also, especially for those who may be arriving Friday, New London 
Harbor (Thames River) is 5 miles west of the Mystic River. The parade 
on Friday should be a treat. In years past, the parade has exited the 
Thames River and made a large loop out into the Long Island Sound 
before going back in.




The ships: 

Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List Northeast Rendezvous - Mystic Food Festival

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

If anyone plans to do this, Thames Yacht Club (my home base) has transient 
moorings and dock space.  One would presumably be able to watch the parade from 
the club (although I have never been around for this event).  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 28, 2016, at 8:27 PM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Also, especially for those who may be arriving Friday, New London Harbor 
> (Thames River) is 5 miles west of the Mystic River. The parade on Friday 
> should be a treat. In years past, the parade has exited the Thames River and 
> made a large loop out into the Long Island Sound before going back in. 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> The ships:  
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> On 8/26/2016 11:28 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Just an update for those planning or considering attending this years 
>> gathering at the Mystic Seaport.
>> 
>> The town of Mystic is holding a "Riverside Food Festival" that same weekend. 
>>  Live music and food from over 30 restaurants.  Entry is free, food tickets 
>> are $1 each!
>> 
>> The festival will be at Mystic Riverside Park.  It is about 3/4 of a mile 
>> walk from the Mystic Seaport and there is a large floating dinghy dock 
>> located at the park.
>> 
>> http://www.mysticeats.com 
>> 
>> http://mysticdowntown.org 
>> 
>> http://cncnortheast.com 
>> 
>> Rob Gallagher
>> HANUMAN
>> 30MKII
>> 
> 
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

I installed 10 ft of LED strip lights behind the teak valance on both sides of 
Pulse, have a goofy idea that I'm going to install a couple of short strips in 
the slot on the underside of the boom in RGB for cockpit lighting. In hind site 
I wish I'd installed RGB in the cabin as well. Purchased mine from Home Depot. 
No problem with them sticking so far, 2 summers in.
Brad
"Pulse" 33 MKII
Lake Huron



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Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Not fun!   Mine were installed in the aluminum track with the diffuser lens.  
Bright,  even light, low glare, no issues with stickiness so far.
Dave.
> On Aug 29, 2016, at 7:03 AM, Sophia Weber  wrote:
> 
> I've installed the version of the LED tape lights you can get from Home 
> Hardware, similar to those from the first link. My problem with them, 
> although they are nice and bright, is that they don't stick perfectly. Have 
> had to use white electrical tape to help them stick.
> 
>   Original Message  
> From: syerd...@gmail.com
> Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 05:23
> To: C Stus List
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights
> 
> Have installed these over galley- major improvement.
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=70322=2,40731=1
> 
> And am experimenting with adapting various versions of these for other areas. 
> No night vision option unfortunately.
> http://www.dalslighting.com/en/product-category/accent+lighting/1/led-products
> Dave 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> : Sun, 28 Aug 2016 18:15:07 -0400
> From: Jerome Tauber 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Cabin LED lights
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Has anyone replaced the old square plastic C cabin dome lights with LED? 
> Any suggestions for easy replacement (Entire unit not bulb)? Thanks. Jerry. 
> C 27 mkv. J 

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Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[Sophia Weber via CnC-List]

I've installed the version of the LED tape lights you can get from Home 
Hardware, similar to those from the first link. My problem with them, although 
they are nice and bright, is that they don't stick perfectly. Have had to use 
white electrical tape to help them stick.

  Original Message  
From: syerd...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 05:23
To: C Stus List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

Have installed these over galley- major improvement.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=70322=2,40731=1

And am experimenting with adapting various versions of these for other areas. 
No night vision option unfortunately.
http://www.dalslighting.com/en/product-category/accent+lighting/1/led-products
Dave 33-2



: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 18:15:07 -0400
From: Jerome Tauber 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cabin LED lights
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Has anyone replaced the old square plastic C cabin dome lights with LED? Any 
suggestions for easy replacement (Entire unit not bulb)? Thanks. Jerry. C 27 
mkv. J 

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Re: Stus-List Cabin LED lights

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Have installed these over galley- major improvement.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=70322=2,40731=1

And am experimenting with adapting various versions of these for other areas.  
No night vision option unfortunately.
http://www.dalslighting.com/en/product-category/accent+lighting/1/led-products
Dave 33-2



: Sun, 28 Aug 2016 18:15:07 -0400
From: Jerome Tauber 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Cabin LED lights
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii

Has anyone replaced the old square plastic C cabin dome lights with LED?   
Any suggestions for easy replacement (Entire unit not bulb)?  Thanks. Jerry. 
C 27 mkv.  J  
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