Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing your experience Matthew. 
I will make use of your suggestions. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36 
Merritt Island, FL

 "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  wrote: 
Steve:

I've had my ATN Top Climber for about 15 years (or more).  I typically 
use it for things like placing/removing wind transducers, checking on the 
antenna connection, re-taping spreader boots (discussed below), that sort of 
thing.  I bought it when I had my 34 because I rarely had any help.  It does 
make it easier when going aloft to be away from the mast a little at the 
base.  I typically run a halyard to a block on the babystay track, which 
moves the line a foot or two away from the mast at the deck.  I've found 
that having a little space at the spreaders helps to get around them.  I 
also run the line to a winch to get it tight, which is needed to facilitate 
going up and coming down.  If the line is not taut, the mechanism doesn't 
work smoothly.  Even being a foot or two away from the mast at the base, the 
line gets closer and closer to the mast as you climb (obviously), so when 
you get to the top you're snug to the mast.

The problem with working on spreader boots with the ATN chair is that 
it's difficult to get away from the mast.  As described above, the static 
line used for climbing is taut and relatively close to the mast.  As a 
result, you're confined to this area.  If you move the block out to the toe 
rail, this will get you a lot closer to the spreader tip on that side, but 
you will also be much further away from the mast for a greater climbing 
distance.  I would not suggest going to the toe rail unless I was 
specifically working on spreaders, and you would need to change the set up 
from side to side.  Instead, I try to find a second person to hoist me the 
old fashioned way (on a winch) when working on spreaders so I'm free to move 
away from the mast.

I typically use a retired halyard for the static line to protect the 
cover on my halyards.  (I tie a bowline to a halyard and raise it.)  You 
lose a couple inches at the top of the mast, but I stand out of the chair at 
the masthead anyway.

Overall, it's a good product, but it has some limitations.  And climbing 
aloft isn't for everybody.

-Original Message- 
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 4:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

All,
  I have been following this discussion with interest since I just 
returned to my southern project boat with a so-far unused ATN Top Climber, 
and intend to use it in the next couple of days. I have taken note in 
particular to the idea of using a loop(s) to stay at the mast. The designer 
of the device however, has at least in the past, suggested securing the 
static line away from the mast because it makes the climb easier. I have not 
tried it either way, but I like the sound of staying at the mast better. 
Anyone have comments on this aspect of using the ATN climbing gear? 
Obviously the boat would have to be pretty steady.

On a separate note regarding fall arrest. I had a conversation one time with 
an accomplished ice climber and asked him what type of line he preferred, 
nylon or low stretch. He seemed to think that I was a complete idiot for 
even asking the question, and maybe I was. Anyway, just to save anyone else 
who has not thought it through from similar embarrassment or injury, you 
definitely want any line that might arrest a fall to be stretchy. Nylon in 
other words.

I plan therefore to use polyester for the static line, and nylon for any 
safety fall arrest  lines.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/upmast.jpg

Working on a topping lift in the Gulf Stream. If you are climbing underway, 
MAKE SURE you have a loop to hold you near the mast. It does not look rough 
in that photo, but the swells at 55 feet up were enough to make it hard to 
hang on, and if you get loose you will hit one or more things pretty hard.

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 


Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Rohwer via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 11:19 PM
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo


I use the same ascenders with my own concoction of straps but unlike the 
fellow in the “atninc" ad I prefer a bosun’s chair to a  climbing harness. 
Plenty of pockets for tools and your vitals don’t go numb.  These allow you 
to actually climb above the top of the mast so you can work readily on mast 
top fittings.

Rick

Paikea37+

On Mar 16, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ryan — many on the list prefer a standard climbing harness and ascenders for 
this type of job.  I personally prefer to sit while working for long period

Re: Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Perko elbow catch #1021DP0BLK

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&biw=360&bih=271&ei=JBXNWKf7A4WVmQGUzaiYAg&q=Perko+elbow+catch+%231021DP0BLK&oq=Perko+elbow+catch+%231021DP0BLK&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.12...35236089.35236089.0.35237531.2.2.0.1.1.0.630.965.3-1j0j1.2.00...1.2.64.mobile-gws-serp..0.1.65.3..41.oI-8qqXZ6iM

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Mar 18, 2017, 12:25 PM Bruce Whitmore 
wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have a number of the plastic latches on our 1994 C&C 37/40+ that are
> broken and need to be replaced.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get replacements?
>
> Ideally, I would love to replace all of them with something that does not
> require us to reach our fingers into the small holes to access the latch -
> those holes are just too small (and I don't have large hands).
>
> No reference to our commander-in-chief intended!  :^)
>
> That said, there is nice wood round trim surrounding the holes, so I'm not
> sure I want to tear those up either.
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
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Re: Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Other than the standard elbow latch (Perko 1056 or 1021P) you might look at
the following:

Sugatsune touch latch MC37B or MC37W
Perko 554 or 559
Colonial friction latch 1 BCHR
Sugatsune 6901 rotary latch
and any of several magnetic latches.

Keep in mind the elbow latches and touch latches offer more secure holding
than the others.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Mar 18, 2017 at 11:21 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have a number of the plastic latches on our 1994 C&C 37/40+ that are
> broken and need to be replaced.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get replacements?
>
> Ideally, I would love to replace all of them with something that does not
> require us to reach our fingers into the small holes to access the latch -
> those holes are just too small (and I don't have large hands).
>
> No reference to our commander-in-chief intended!  :^)
>
> That said, there is nice wood round trim surrounding the holes, so I'm not
> sure I want to tear those up either.
>
> Anyone have any ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I bought metal replacement Perko latches at West Marine.   They are far 
superior to the plastic and exact same measurements.  Here are some sources 
below for the original plastic and metal.Jerry  J&J  




Perko CP Zinc Elbow Catch
$24.99
West Marine

In store





Perko Plastic Elbow Catch ...
$5.99
Boaters Plus




Perko 1021Dp0Blk ...
$5.45
Boatstore.com




Perko 1021DP0BLK ...
$9.80
Walmart

Free shipping




Perko Perko Elbow Catch ...
$11.82
Explosive Po...




Perko 1056 Chrome ...
$9.40
eBay


 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
To: C&C List ; Josh Muckley 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Sent: Sat, Mar 18, 2017 12:25 pm
Subject: Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?



Hello all, 



I have a number of the plastic latches on our 1994 C&C 37/40+ that are broken 
and need to be replaced.


Does anyone know where I can get replacements?  



Ideally, I would love to replace all of them with something that does not 
require us to reach our fingers into the small holes to access the latch - 
those holes are just too small (and I don't have large hands).  



No reference to our commander-in-chief intended!  :^)  



That said, there is nice wood round trim surrounding the holes, so I'm not sure 
I want to tear those up either.  



Anyone have any ideas?  



Thanks!
 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Winch Hunting Deal

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Thanks for the heads up.  Maybe they will have another sale combined with an 
EV-100 auto helm.  The prep of 1st launch has drained my discretionary account.

Bill Dakin
25MKII

> On Mar 18, 2017, at 5:38 AM, Graham Young via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good morning everyone,
> 
> Just an FYI for those who might not have known, Lewmar is having a buy one 
> get one free sale on their 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Drawer and locker latches?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all, 

I have a number of the plastic latches on our 1994 C&C 37/40+ that are broken 
and need to be replaced.
Does anyone know where I can get replacements?  

Ideally, I would love to replace all of them with something that does not 
require us to reach our fingers into the small holes to access the latch - 
those holes are just too small (and I don't have large hands).  

No reference to our commander-in-chief intended!  :^)  

That said, there is nice wood round trim surrounding the holes, so I'm not sure 
I want to tear those up either.  

Anyone have any ideas?  

Thanks! Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Steve:

   I've had my ATN Top Climber for about 15 years (or more).  I typically 
use it for things like placing/removing wind transducers, checking on the 
antenna connection, re-taping spreader boots (discussed below), that sort of 
thing.  I bought it when I had my 34 because I rarely had any help.  It does 
make it easier when going aloft to be away from the mast a little at the 
base.  I typically run a halyard to a block on the babystay track, which 
moves the line a foot or two away from the mast at the deck.  I've found 
that having a little space at the spreaders helps to get around them.  I 
also run the line to a winch to get it tight, which is needed to facilitate 
going up and coming down.  If the line is not taut, the mechanism doesn't 
work smoothly.  Even being a foot or two away from the mast at the base, the 
line gets closer and closer to the mast as you climb (obviously), so when 
you get to the top you're snug to the mast.


   The problem with working on spreader boots with the ATN chair is that 
it's difficult to get away from the mast.  As described above, the static 
line used for climbing is taut and relatively close to the mast.  As a 
result, you're confined to this area.  If you move the block out to the toe 
rail, this will get you a lot closer to the spreader tip on that side, but 
you will also be much further away from the mast for a greater climbing 
distance.  I would not suggest going to the toe rail unless I was 
specifically working on spreaders, and you would need to change the set up 
from side to side.  Instead, I try to find a second person to hoist me the 
old fashioned way (on a winch) when working on spreaders so I'm free to move 
away from the mast.


   I typically use a retired halyard for the static line to protect the 
cover on my halyards.  (I tie a bowline to a halyard and raise it.)  You 
lose a couple inches at the top of the mast, but I stand out of the chair at 
the masthead anyway.


   Overall, it's a good product, but it has some limitations.  And climbing 
aloft isn't for everybody.


-Original Message- 
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 4:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

All,
 I have been following this discussion with interest since I just 
returned to my southern project boat with a so-far unused ATN Top Climber, 
and intend to use it in the next couple of days. I have taken note in 
particular to the idea of using a loop(s) to stay at the mast. The designer 
of the device however, has at least in the past, suggested securing the 
static line away from the mast because it makes the climb easier. I have not 
tried it either way, but I like the sound of staying at the mast better. 
Anyone have comments on this aspect of using the ATN climbing gear? 
Obviously the boat would have to be pretty steady.


On a separate note regarding fall arrest. I had a conversation one time with 
an accomplished ice climber and asked him what type of line he preferred, 
nylon or low stretch. He seemed to think that I was a complete idiot for 
even asking the question, and maybe I was. Anyway, just to save anyone else 
who has not thought it through from similar embarrassment or injury, you 
definitely want any line that might arrest a fall to be stretchy. Nylon in 
other words.


I plan therefore to use polyester for the static line, and nylon for any 
safety fall arrest  lines.


Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/upmast.jpg

Working on a topping lift in the Gulf Stream. If you are climbing underway, 
MAKE SURE you have a loop to hold you near the mast. It does not look rough 
in that photo, but the swells at 55 feet up were enough to make it hard to 
hang on, and if you get loose you will hit one or more things pretty hard.


Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com 


Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Rohwer via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 11:19 PM
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo


I use the same ascenders with my own concoction of straps but unlike the 
fellow in the “atninc" ad I prefer a bosun’s chair to a  climbing harness. 
Plenty of pockets for tools and your vitals don’t go numb.  These allow you 
to actually climb above the top of the mast so you can work readily on mast 
top fittings.


Rick

Paikea37+

On Mar 16, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:


Ryan — many on the list prefer a standard climbing harness and ascenders for 
this type of job.  I personally prefer to sit while working for long periods 
of time, so I use the ATN TopClimber (now called the “MastClimber”): 
http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimber-sailing-equipment.shtml


I’ve had very good luck wit

Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mark,

You won't have dynamic falls (one would hope) when climbing the mast. Dynamic 
falls happen when you are climbing and leading (the lead regularly is above the 
least piton or nut and if you fall you drop the double that distance). When you 
are climbing the mast, all your falls would be static - if you main gear fails, 
you would simply hang on the safety line. If you have someone helping, that 
person would take the slack of the safety line. If you are solo, you would move 
your attachment point (the Prusik's knot; the 3rd ascender) up as you are 
climbing. The safety line (and attachment should be almost tight (not too 
tight, you want the freedom of movement).

So in short - leave the dynamic ropes to the climbers; use the static ropes 
(lines) that we all have on the mast.

Unless you are climbing the mast on a regular basis. You should not damage the 
halyard. There are different kinds of ascenders (like there are different kinds 
of clutches); some are gentle on the rope, others not so much. However, most of 
the ascenders are designed to be used regularly on the rope, so they should not 
make any significant damage to the halyard.

One other thing, if you never tried it before, train for it like with anything 
else. I would not suggest that the trip straight to the top of the mast is the 
best thing to do on the first try. And if you try it first, think  not only how 
you are going to go up, but also how you are planning to come down (the latter 
might be more tricky).

Good luck

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark 
Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 22:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo


I've been reading this discussion with some interest - while I have sent one 
kid up the mast I don't expect my 14 yr old to manage more complex tasks.

I know about using dynamic ropes for climbing - but how do you get the dynamic 
rope up the mast to act as a safety line? And what line are you climbing?

Should I be concerned about wear on my halyards using ascenders (with I believe 
geared pinch mechanisms)?

For a safely line I know I could use a dynamic rope tied to a halyard and 
hauled up to the top of the mast - but it seems that extra knot brings another 
failure point we'd prefer to avoid.

Plus - if you are climbing alone (nobody is taking up the slack in the safety 
rope) - then I'd guess you need a 3rd ascender for the safety line.

If things go wrong how to you lower yourself with that safety line?

Guess I should read up more on ascenders!

Mark

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

On 2017-03-17 5:05 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
> All,
>I have been following this discussion with interest since I just 
> returned to my southern project boat with a so-far unused ATN Top Climber, 
> and intend to use it in the next couple of days. I have taken note in 
> particular to the idea of using a loop(s) to stay at the mast. The designer 
> of the device however, has at least in the past, suggested securing the 
> static line away from the mast because it makes the climb easier. I have not 
> tried it either way, but I like the sound of staying at the mast better. 
> Anyone have comments on this aspect of using the ATN climbing gear? Obviously 
> the boat would have to be pretty steady.
>
> On a separate note regarding fall arrest. I had a conversation one time with 
> an accomplished ice climber and asked him what type of line he preferred, 
> nylon or low stretch. He seemed to think that I was a complete idiot for even 
> asking the question, and maybe I was. Anyway, just to save anyone else who 
> has not thought it through from similar embarrassment or injury, you 
> definitely want any line that might arrest a fall to be stretchy. Nylon in 
> other words.
>
> I plan therefore to use polyester for the static line, and nylon for any 
> safety fall arrest  lines.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, FL
>
>
>  Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote:
> http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/upmast.jpg
>
>   Working on a topping lift in the Gulf Stream. If you are climbing underway, 
> MAKE SURE you have a loop to hold you near the mast. It does not look rough 
> in that photo, but the swells at 55 feet up were enough to make it hard to 
> hang on, and if you get loose you will hit one or more things pretty hard.
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> j...@dellabarba.com 
>
>
> Coquina
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Rick Rohwer via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 11:19 PM
> To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Cc: Rick Rohwer 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo
>   
>
> I use the same ascenders with my own concoction of straps but unlike the 
> fellow in the “atninc" ad I prefer a bosun’s chair to a  clim

Stus-List Winch Hunting Deal

[Graham Young via CnC-List]

Good morning everyone,
Just an FYI for those who might not have known, Lewmar is having a buy one get 
one free sale on their winches through West Marine until 3/19.  Seems like a 
good deal for those looking to upgrade their winches!

Graham YoungS/V Spellbound1981 C&C 32 
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Faria temperature gauge calibration

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Nice! Glad I could help.

Josh

On Mar 17, 2017 11:19 PM, "Russ & Melody via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Josh,
>
> Update info on the temp gauge trouble. I had the wiring correct, sender to
> "S" and power to "I" (ignition?).  I swapped the wires on those terminals
> and my mate observed the needle deflect to zero from high, as the engine
> was hot.
> I'm guessing it is not a Wheatstone Bridge arrangement (or being on "the
> Left Coast" we'd prefer a Whole Wheatstone Bridge arrangement).
>
> Anyhow, digging around with a multi I couldn't believe finding only 7
> volts at the gauge. The + and ground wire on the harness to the panel are
> large, say 12 ga.for glow plug load.  The ground pigtails to gauges are 14
> ga but the first joint is faulty.
> I had a little jumper, say 18 ga, and went from temperature gauge to
> harness ground and everything came up to house voltage and indicated
> temperature dropped to 175 F and the tachometer came to life with a proper
> ground path too.
>
> The weather forecast is looking okay for that little cruise & lunch at the
> Dinghy Dock Pub with our guests from Denmark.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> At 09:02 PM 13/03/2017, you wrote:
>
> Hi Josh,
>
> Thanks for the tip. I hope it's as simple as a dufus move with sensor and
> IGN connections.
>
> Fortunately I made a colour coded wiring diagram when I changed from the
> Catalina panel to Sweet's panel.
> I'll track that down this weekend, along with the tach wiring. It's a
> sensor lead type unit fed from alternator stator that worked for the garage
> setup, temporary measures of course, but decided not to work in a real life
> situation.
>
> The rest of the engine install has been successful. Oh joy. I can get to
> the Dinghy Dock Pub this weekend, with guests from out of town.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
>
>
> At 05:16 AM 13/03/2017, you wrote:
>
> You can put a simple variable resistor in series with the temperature
> probe.  Or you could put a simple voltage regulator circuit on the 12v
> supply. You could church it up by making the voltage regulator adjustable.
>
> There might be something wrong with the gage or a ground path since most
> temperature sensing systems are designed to work independent of the input
> voltage.  A wheatsone bridge is normally used.Â
>
> https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheatstone_bridge
>
> A simple mistake in the wiring could be the cause too.  Typically the
> gages have a 12v supply, ground, and sense (or D from the picture in the
> link).  If the 12v and D wires attached to the gage were swapped I think
> you would see the resulting indication which you are having.  I'd take
> some voltage readings at the temperature probe and at the gage.  While
> you're there check the resistances of the ground wire and the sensing
> wire.  Particularly important in this case is the meter usage good
> practice of checking for no voltage before checking resistance.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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