Re: Stus-List VHB tape for fixed ports

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Very timely posting as I'm shopping for VHB myself.  I saw a Don
Casey article that was recommending the following:

3m vhb 4991 1/2"

Dow 795 silicone caulking

http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/


Hi all,

I have the new windows for my C&C 34/36 and am going to go the VHB route.

Looking at past posts seems VHB #5952 is the way to go.

There seem to be many options in terms of color, width and thickness.

Any one with at 34/36 or 37/40 who has done this with VHB have any advice?

Thanks,

Eric
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy,

Here in Seattle we test for leaks almost daily.  The thin aluminum HAVC tape w/ 
paper release is magic.  Between downpours, you can wipe and install, and it 
sticks.  It sticks to the windows, metal, and fiberglass, and is so thin water 
will roll over it.  It doesn’t gum up like ductape - which will not work and 
leaves a sticky mess. Use till you can redo your hatches windows and port 
lights correctly.

Good Luck, Lee  




> On Jun 15, 2017, at 3:27 44PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jeremy,
>  
> I close up the gaping hole with a piece of plywood that is cut to fit.  Drill 
> the holes to match the hatch (every other one) and it will screw down with 
> the original screws.  You can even sail with it if you seal it well.  It does 
> limit exits from the cabin, which can be a safety concern both at the dock 
> and on the water.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 13:19
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Jeremy Ralph mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>>; 
> dbjons...@shaw.ca 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks
>  
> Thanks Joel, Matthew, and Don!
>  
> Rebuild/rebedding that hatch lens now on my increasingly growing list of 
> projects.  
>  
> I'm curious, when removing port lenses for such a project, what do people do 
> to keep things sealed up?  I may redo settee windows at the same time.  I see 
> some boats with plastic sheeting and duct tape while under construction...  
>  
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

 

I close up the gaping hole with a piece of plywood that is cut to fit.  Drill 
the holes to match the hatch (every other one) and it will screw down with the 
original screws.  You can even sail with it if you seal it well.  It does limit 
exits from the cabin, which can be a safety concern both at the dock and on the 
water.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 13:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph ; dbjons...@shaw.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

 

Thanks Joel, Matthew, and Don!

 

Rebuild/rebedding that hatch lens now on my increasingly growing list of 
projects.  

 

I'm curious, when removing port lenses for such a project, what do people do to 
keep things sealed up?  I may redo settee windows at the same time.  I see some 
boats with plastic sheeting and duct tape while under construction...  

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List VHB tape for fixed ports

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Eric,

Did this on the Enterprise about 4 years ago with VHB tape and everything is 
still wonderful. 

The best advice I can give is that you will have a lot of residue left over 
after you remove your old windows completely — preparation/cleaning will be 
everything. Make sure you have a good surface left to work with. 

Also, due to the curve of the forward windows, be prepared to wedge something 
there to hold the window in place while everything settles. That will take the 
initial stress off the bonding. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 








> On Jun 15, 2017, at 3:52 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I have the new windows for my C&C 34/36 and am going to go the VHB route.
> 
> Looking at past posts seems VHB #5952 is the way to go.
> 
> There seem to be many options in terms of color, width and thickness. 
> 
> Any one with at 34/36 or 37/40 who has done this with VHB have any advice?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Eric
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List VHB tape for fixed ports

[Eric Baumes via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have the new windows for my C&C 34/36 and am going to go the VHB route.

Looking at past posts seems VHB #5952 is the way to go.

There seem to be many options in terms of color, width and thickness.

Any one with at 34/36 or 37/40 who has done this with VHB have any advice?

Thanks,

Eric
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

[schiller via CnC-List]

I will send you the instructions for the one that I have off list.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan

On 6/14/2017 10:18 PM, Jim via CnC-List wrote:
I have a 1971 C&C 35 mk1 with an old style rig tension gauge (see pics 
as follow 
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa

Anyone have instructions on how to use this old style gauge?
It has a scale reading from 1 to about 3.

Cheers, James



*From: *"Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc: *firewa...@reinardy.us
*Sent: *Wednesday, June 14, 2017 12:29:36 PM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

All, I can share my recent experience on this.  I had Loos gauges for 
my old Catalina with stranded rigging and came to like having that 
piece of mind.  When I bought my C&C with rod, I had trouble with the 
cost of the RT-10 and did not buy one for several years.


I put out an inquiry several weeks ago and Harry Hallgring from the 
list was kind enough to ship me his gauge to try.   It turned out that 
in previous years I was nowhere near tight enough doing it by feel, 
the gauge gave me the confidence to tighten them down properly. I can 
confirm that it has made a substantial difference in how the boat 
sails and eliminated some issues we had with differences between tacks.


I was also surprised at how quickly the tension changes with rod as 
Rob points out below.  Once you get to a certain tension, the gauge 
moves rapidly with only a little movement of the turnbuckle.


Long story short, I am now sold on the value of the RT-10, though it 
still seems like a lot to pay.  I started looking for a used one, but 
came across new ones at the Binnacle's US site 
(http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9150) for $426, 
no tax and free shipping.  That seemed too good to pass up and I was 
not sure how long it would last, so I am now the owner of an RT-10.


Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32
From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: Wed, June 14, 2017 7:55 am
To: "C&c Stus List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>

Thanks.  I lack both experience and empirical data, (no gauge) so
your input really helps. I suspect that I simply did not set it up
correctly initially.  Last week's sail was in 14-16kts, gusts to
19, rare-ish here, a fair bit of "bash and crash" and first time
this season, so any microbends certainly got unbent, and the
unseated was seated.

Dave




-- Forwarded message --
From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2017 09:55:31 -0300
Subject: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32
Dave:

I can't add much to what Josh has stated.  Each Spring, the mast
is stepped, I set the rig tensioned the same as every
year.even if my boat sits at the dock, the shroud tension will
ease a bit...maybe as much as 100 lbs. or 5% to 7% of the initial
tension.

One half turn on my turnbuckle is not a lot of 'actual distance'
gained or losed.as Josh says "a micro bend". however, if I
leave the gauge on the shroud when the turnbuckle is tightened or
loosened, it will move the gauge accordingly.

Without the Loos RT 10, I am merely guessing the rig
tension..under tensioning is obvious when you take the boat
out under sail.over tensioning is not as easy to detect.

I come from a racing background where rig tension is
paramount.we were constantly adjusting it to suit the
conditions on race day..sometimes up and down between races on
the same day   While I don't race AZURA, old habits like rig
tensioning has remained with me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-06-13 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

"How do I gauge?" - this is the argument for paying $500 for
the Loos Tension gauge, otherwise you are just guessing.

I believe there are micro bends, stretches, seating, and
flexing throughout the system which allow the rig to loosen
up.  With such low stretch rod rigging only a fraction of an
inch can be the difference between hundreds of pounds of
tension and zero pounds.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 13, 2017 12:40 PM, "Dave S via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Timely...
I set up my rigging per the instructions in the owners
manual immediately after launch, and Windstar sat for a
few weeks other than

Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Jim

It looks like you clip the two ends over the wire and the rod with the spring 
rests against wire and then you read numbers on the scimptar shaped scale.  
This is only a guess mind you.

What this gives you is a measure.  You would then have to tune the rig while 
sailing and record the readings.  This will give you easily repeatable settings

Mike

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 11:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: j...@mymts.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

I have a 1971 C&C 35 mk1 with an old style rig tension gauge (see pics as 
follow   
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/y2fsam4l5vrvz7v/AAAzwvyuC7njm3lEGi3xNJ1Sa
Anyone have instructions on how to use this old style gauge?
It has a scale reading from 1 to about 3.

Cheers, James



From: "Jim Reinardy via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: firewa...@reinardy.us
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2017 12:29:36 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

All, I can share my recent experience on this.  I had Loos gauges for my old 
Catalina with stranded rigging and came to like having that piece of mind.  
When I bought my C&C with rod, I had trouble with the cost of the RT-10 and did 
not buy one for several years.

I put out an inquiry several weeks ago and Harry Hallgring from the list was 
kind enough to ship me his gauge to try.   It turned out that in previous years 
I was nowhere near tight enough doing it by feel, the gauge gave me the 
confidence to tighten them down properly.  I can confirm that it has made a 
substantial difference in how the boat sails and eliminated some issues we had 
with differences between tacks.


I was also surprised at how quickly the tension changes with rod as Rob points 
out below.  Once you get to a certain tension, the gauge moves rapidly with 
only a little movement of the turnbuckle.


Long story short, I am now sold on the value of the RT-10, though it still 
seems like a lot to pay.  I started looking for a used one, but came across new 
ones at the Binnacle's US site 
(http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=9150) for $426, no tax and 
free shipping.  That seemed too good to pass up and I was not sure how long it 
would last, so I am now the owner of an RT-10.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI


 Original Message 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32
From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: Wed, June 14, 2017 7:55 am
To: "C&c Stus List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Thanks.  I lack both experience and empirical data, (no gauge) so your input 
really helps.  I suspect that I simply did not set it up correctly 
initially.  Last week's sail was in 14-16kts, gusts to 19, rare-ish here, a 
fair bit of "bash and crash" and first time this season, so any microbends 
certainly got unbent, and the unseated was seated.

Dave




-- Forwarded message --
From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2017 09:55:31 -0300
Subject: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32
Dave:

I can't add much to what Josh has stated.  Each Spring, the mast is stepped, I 
set the rig tensioned the same as every year.even if my boat sits at the 
dock, the shroud tension will ease a bit...maybe as much as 100 lbs. or 5% to 
7% of the initial tension.

One half turn on my turnbuckle is not a lot of 'actual distance' gained or 
losed.as Josh says "a micro bend". however, if I leave the gauge on the 
shroud when the turnbuckle is tightened or loosened, it will move the gauge 
accordingly.

Without the Loos RT 10, I am merely guessing the rig tension..under 
tensioning is obvious when you take the boat out under sail.over tensioning 
is not as easy to detect.

I come from a racing background where rig tension is paramount.we were 
constantly adjusting it to suit the conditions on race day..sometimes up 
and down between races on the same day   While I don't race AZURA, old habits 
like rig tensioning has remained with me.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-06-13 5:45 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
"How do I gauge?" - this is the argument for paying $500 for the Loos Tension 
gauge, otherwise you are just guessing.

I believe there are micro bends, stretches, seating, and flexing throughout the 
system which allow the rig to loosen up.  With such low stretch rod rigging 
only a fraction of an inch can be the difference between hundreds of pounds of 
tension and zero pounds.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 13, 2017 12:40 PM, "Dave S via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Timely...
I set up my ri