Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I sucked a sardine into the raw water intake in Powell River.  I idled back to 
P R worked from the pump backwards, and there he was with a steely gaze halfway 
up the through hull.  If he would have extracted himself first I would still be 
looking for answers!
It does bring up a question that has been bugging me: if someone's exhaust is 
seriously steaming is it always an issue? and should I mention it to them? 
I know I would appreciate knowing, but some folks maybe not!  There are several 
commercial vessels leaving Anacortes that really have a cloud behind them!

Rick Rohwer 
Paikea 37+



> On Aug 15, 2017, at 17:43, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Buddy of mine had a similar issue.  Sucked a plastic bag against the intake.  
> When he turned the engine off and hoisted sails, it detached and floated off, 
>  He saw it.  Re-cranked the engine and it ran fine.
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Oven thermostat

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

We probably have the same Force 10 stove.  The oven is difficult to use without 
a thermostat.  I saw the there is a newer model that look very similar to what 
we have and it has a thermostatically controlled oven.  It may be possible to 
retrofit our stoves.  Here’s a link to the newer model’s manual: 
http://www.force10.com/files/documents/Gourmet%20Galley%20Range%20Manual.pdf

 

For several years, I’ve considered fixing the automatic ignition.  Maybe this 
winter, I’ll do that and see what it takes to convert the stove.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:05 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Oven thermostat

 

I have a Force 10 stove on Kaylarah and it annoys me that the oven doesn't have 
a thermostat (just a simple valve like the top burners).  Has anyone ever tried 
to put a thermostat in the oven of a Force 10 stove?

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah 

'90 C&C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA

-- 

~~~_/)~~

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I think if I had to get a dinghy onboard to travel, I might get one of these:
http://www.boatstogo.com/inflatable-boat-am365.asp

They look pretty good for the price


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 12:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

You could probably sail with it up front, but you'd need to have a high clewed 
jib to make it more feasible.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL



From: john wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: john wright mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

Thanks. I agree, my thinking is that it will be towed while under sail. Its an 
Acorn Tender and they tow very well.


On Aug 15, 2017, at 2:33 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Oven thermostat

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

No worries, thanks for the update!
Gary

On Tue, Aug 15, 2017 at 9:01 PM G Collins 
wrote:

> d'Oh!  Did not read that clearly!
>
> Apologies.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2017-08-15 9:52 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Unfortunately, that is a thermometer (which I have) not a thermostat.
>
> Gary
>
> On Tue, Aug 15, 2017 at 6:44 PM G Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You could use a hanging thermostat, one of the ones you put inside the
>> oven.  Requires that the glass door be clear enough to see thru...
>>
>> Like this one.
>> 
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2017-08-15 11:05 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> I have a Force 10 stove on Kaylarah and it annoys me that the oven
>> doesn't have a thermostat (just a simple valve like the top burners).  Has
>> anyone ever tried to put a thermostat in the oven of a Force 10 stove?
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> --
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> --
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
~~~_/)~~
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

You could probably sail with it up front, but you'd need to have a high clewed 
jib to make it more feasible.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: john wright via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: john wright 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 2:00 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
   
Thanks. I agree, my thinking is that it will be towed while under sail. Its an 
Acorn Tender and they tow very well.


On Aug 15, 2017, at 2:33 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
wrote:


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Genco canvas near Toronto

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the advice! Sounds like we could make a fun few days out of it. 
I didn't realize it was only an hour from Niagara Falls. Long ago I used to 
help run a road race like "Cannonball Run" from Annapolis to Niagara Falls and 
the course record is 5 hours and 50 minutes :)


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Len Mitchell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Len Mitchell 
Subject: Stus-List Genco canvas near Toronto

Joe, to build on what Joe Bognar said, Genco is close to thousands of 
interesting things to do depending on when and what your interests are. There 
is an in water boat show in Port Credit at the end of August but Fri-Sun, 
hockey hall of fame, theatres, museums, Jays baseball, it really is endless. I 
am sure you could find a ride on Lake Ontario on a C&C or drive north 1.5 hrs 
and sail Georgian Bay, our boat comes out of the water End of September. Have 
fun with it. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On


Sent from my iPad
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yeah we have a porta-boat also and for many years have simply set it up on
the foredeck.  We use a short spinnaker pole to davit the boat over the
side.  Generally I like it but keeping the boat setup would make things
easier.

Josh

On Aug 16, 2017 10:41 AM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I couldn't help but chuckle at your description - that's a perfect
> description of several times when I really regretted towing the dinghy and
> should have had it stowed (folding PortaBote, so it stows nicely inside the
> shrouds).
>
> In those kind of wave conditions I think the dinghy should be stowed. Some
> say that if you let out more painter (like 40' or more) to get the dinghy
> riding on the right wave, it will do okay. That might work, but in steep,
> close spaced waves like we get approaching some coasts (or in large tide
> rips in wind against current situations), it won't. Riding on the transom
> wake is impossible because the waves are confused, and if you have 6' waves
> at 6 seconds (very close spaced), the timing will be too variable and the
> dinghy will still plough into troughs and then race forward on crests.
>
> Our dinghy doesn't flip or swamp fortunately, but when it starts going
> sideways, the painter coming taut puts a huge jerking force onto it. We
> lost a painter that way last month (actually a sheet bend knot in the
> harness pulled out) but fortunately use a secondary painter with its own
> harness as backup.
>
> Good time to stow the dinghy is before you get into waves like that. Most
> people avoid conditions like that, and in sounds it's quite rare, so that's
> why generally a lot of people can tow probably 95-100% of the time.
>
> -Patrick
> '84 LF38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C&C List" 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 08:54:46 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
>> So for those who tow, what is the preferred method?
>>
>> We towed an inflatable one time.  Had floating painter and made a bridle
>> on the dink.  Tied straight to the stern rail station.  No bridle at the
>> boat, not tied to the stern cleats.  The painter was roughly 20'.  In a
>> following seas with 6 foot swells the dinghy would surge down the face of
>> the wave catch up with the boat.  At one point it got up next to the boat
>> and turned slightly perpendicular to the boat.  When the slack was pulled
>> out of the painter, the force was sideways to the dinghy and was enough to
>> flip it upside down.  It was painfully difficult to turn right side up.
>> I've been hesitant to tow since.  I've seen others tow with a considerably
>> shorter painter but with my reverse transom I would rather avoid having the
>> dinghy bump or rub the back of the boat.
>>
>> Do you keep an outboard on the dinghy while towing?
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Genco canvas near Toronto

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Joe, to build on what Joe Bognar said, Genco is close to thousands of 
interesting things to do depending on when and what your interests are. There 
is an in water boat show in Port Credit at the end of August but Fri-Sun, 
hockey hall of fame, theatres, museums, Jays baseball, it really is endless. I 
am sure you could find a ride on Lake Ontario on a C&C or drive north 1.5 hrs 
and sail Georgian Bay, our boat comes out of the water End of September. Have 
fun with it. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On


Sent from my iPad
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I couldn't help but chuckle at your description - that's a perfect
description of several times when I really regretted towing the dinghy and
should have had it stowed (folding PortaBote, so it stows nicely inside the
shrouds).

In those kind of wave conditions I think the dinghy should be stowed. Some
say that if you let out more painter (like 40' or more) to get the dinghy
riding on the right wave, it will do okay. That might work, but in steep,
close spaced waves like we get approaching some coasts (or in large tide
rips in wind against current situations), it won't. Riding on the transom
wake is impossible because the waves are confused, and if you have 6' waves
at 6 seconds (very close spaced), the timing will be too variable and the
dinghy will still plough into troughs and then race forward on crests.

Our dinghy doesn't flip or swamp fortunately, but when it starts going
sideways, the painter coming taut puts a huge jerking force onto it. We
lost a painter that way last month (actually a sheet bend knot in the
harness pulled out) but fortunately use a secondary painter with its own
harness as backup.

Good time to stow the dinghy is before you get into waves like that. Most
people avoid conditions like that, and in sounds it's quite rare, so that's
why generally a lot of people can tow probably 95-100% of the time.

-Patrick
'84 LF38
Seattle, WA


> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2017 08:54:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck
> So for those who tow, what is the preferred method?
>
> We towed an inflatable one time.  Had floating painter and made a bridle
> on the dink.  Tied straight to the stern rail station.  No bridle at the
> boat, not tied to the stern cleats.  The painter was roughly 20'.  In a
> following seas with 6 foot swells the dinghy would surge down the face of
> the wave catch up with the boat.  At one point it got up next to the boat
> and turned slightly perpendicular to the boat.  When the slack was pulled
> out of the painter, the force was sideways to the dinghy and was enough to
> flip it upside down.  It was painfully difficult to turn right side up.
> I've been hesitant to tow since.  I've seen others tow with a considerably
> shorter painter but with my reverse transom I would rather avoid having the
> dinghy bump or rub the back of the boat.
>
> Do you keep an outboard on the dinghy while towing?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Forgot – I always tow from the eye in the hull of the dinghy. I have never even 
thought about using the eyes connected to the tubes.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 9:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

Josh — we use an “X” shaped towing bridle for our dinghy; two connections on 
the dink, and tied off to the stern cleats.  It’s about twelve feet long or so, 
with stainless carabiners for the dingy end and large eyes at the boat end.  
There seems to be enough friction on the dinghy to keep the bridle taut under 
most conditions.

And we NEVER tow with an outboard on the dink; you’re liable to considerably 
shorten the life of the transom doing that, along with the chance of drowning 
your outboard…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 16, 2017, at 7:54 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

So for those who tow, what is the preferred method?

We towed an inflatable one time.  Had floating painter and made a bridle on the 
dink.  Tied straight to the stern rail station.  No bridle at the boat, not 
tied to the stern cleats.  The painter was roughly 20'.  In a following seas 
with 6 foot swells the dinghy would surge down the face of the wave catch up 
with the boat.  At one point it got up next to the boat and turned slightly 
perpendicular to the boat.  When the slack was pulled out of the painter, the 
force was sideways to the dinghy and was enough to flip it upside down.  It was 
painfully difficult to turn right side up.  I've been hesitant to tow since.  
I've seen others tow with a considerably shorter painter but with my reverse 
transom I would rather avoid having the dinghy bump or rub the back of the boat.

Do you keep an outboard on the dinghy while towing?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on foredeck

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Towing inflatables:
If it is a soft bottom, the ONLY way I have made it work is engine off and the 
bow of the dinghy is up in the air tied to the stern pulpit and the engine off 
the dinghy. Towing astern has always resulted in a swamped or flipped dinghy.
Both my last RIB and my current one, an Avon 340, have been towed astern with 
no issues in all kinds of Chesapeake weather for about 17 years now with no 
issues with the engine on. There is no way I would even think of wrestling a 15 
HP engine on and off the dinghy every time I moved it. The engine goes on in 
March and off in December.  There are limits though, I wouldn’t try it out in 
open ocean.
Speaking of engines, I have this advice. Go big or go light. A 2-4 HP two 
stroke can be picked up with two fingers and stowed aboard. Your dinghy will go 
about 5 knots. My 15 HP outboard is good for about 18 knots or so with a good 
load in the dinghy and can tow a tube+rider at speed. It weights around 75 
pounds, too heavy to try and move on and off. If you go in the middle range of 
9-10 HP or so, you’ll end up with a lot more weight and the frustrating 
condition of going 15 knots by yourself and 5 as soon as another person gets in 
the dinghy.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Avon 340 + Evinrude 15 HP





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 8:55 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

So for those who tow, what is the preferred method?

We towed an inflatable one time.  Had floating painter and made a bridle on the 
dink.  Tied straight to the stern rail station.  No bridle at the boat, not 
tied to the stern cleats.  The painter was roughly 20'.  In a following seas 
with 6 foot swells the dinghy would surge down the face of the wave catch up 
with the boat.  At one point it got up next to the boat and turned slightly 
perpendicular to the boat.  When the slack was pulled out of the painter, the 
force was sideways to the dinghy and was enough to flip it upside down.  It was 
painfully difficult to turn right side up.  I've been hesitant to tow since.  
I've seen others tow with a considerably shorter painter but with my reverse 
transom I would rather avoid having the dinghy bump or rub the back of the boat.

Do you keep an outboard on the dinghy while towing?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Aug 15, 2017, 1:50 PM john wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Any owners of 38 Landfall or any other C&C, keep/store their tender on the 
foredeck. I am thinking of having Chocks made that at minimum, I can keep a 
rowing wood tender thats 10 ft long on the foredeck. Not sure about while under 
sail. Thoughts?

Thanks
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — we use an “X” shaped towing bridle for our dinghy; two connections on 
the dink, and tied off to the stern cleats.  It’s about twelve feet long or so, 
with stainless carabiners for the dingy end and large eyes at the boat end.  
There seems to be enough friction on the dinghy to keep the bridle taut under 
most conditions.

And we NEVER tow with an outboard on the dink; you’re liable to considerably 
shorten the life of the transom doing that, along with the chance of drowning 
your outboard…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 16, 2017, at 7:54 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> So for those who tow, what is the preferred method?  
> 
> We towed an inflatable one time.  Had floating painter and made a bridle on 
> the dink.  Tied straight to the stern rail station.  No bridle at the boat, 
> not tied to the stern cleats.  The painter was roughly 20'.  In a following 
> seas with 6 foot swells the dinghy would surge down the face of the wave 
> catch up with the boat.  At one point it got up next to the boat and turned 
> slightly perpendicular to the boat.  When the slack was pulled out of the 
> painter, the force was sideways to the dinghy and was enough to flip it 
> upside down.  It was painfully difficult to turn right side up.  I've been 
> hesitant to tow since.  I've seen others tow with a considerably shorter 
> painter but with my reverse transom I would rather avoid having the dinghy 
> bump or rub the back of the boat. 
> 
> Do you keep an outboard on the dinghy while towing?
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

“Don’t try and catch a falling knife” is a Wall Street term for not buying a 
declining stock and hoping it will turn around.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



From: RANDY [mailto:randy.staff...@comcast.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 6:54 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

Joe what do you mean by "'falling knife' investment"?

Cheers,
Randy


From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "Joe Della Barba" mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 9:01:36 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

The boat was in horrible shape about 6-8 years ago and probably has not 
improved. I doubt you would do well even if you got her for free.
Speaking of boat values, pretty much any older boat now is a “falling knife” 
investment. If anyone does still want old boats, no reason to get a half or 
3/4s dead one.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2017 10:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 mailto:detroit...@aol.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

At $ 10,000.00. Something has got to be in real bad shape!  (I hope)
Jim
38 lf
Washington nc



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 8/15/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

“Wow” is right — there go the property values in the neighborhood…   :^(

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 15, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

WOW!  Don't know the boat, but could be a bargain.

https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-landfall/6264221307.html

--
Joel
301 541 8551

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

So for those who tow, what is the preferred method?

We towed an inflatable one time.  Had floating painter and made a bridle on
the dink.  Tied straight to the stern rail station.  No bridle at the boat,
not tied to the stern cleats.  The painter was roughly 20'.  In a following
seas with 6 foot swells the dinghy would surge down the face of the wave
catch up with the boat.  At one point it got up next to the boat and turned
slightly perpendicular to the boat.  When the slack was pulled out of the
painter, the force was sideways to the dinghy and was enough to flip it
upside down.  It was painfully difficult to turn right side up.  I've been
hesitant to tow since.  I've seen others tow with a considerably shorter
painter but with my reverse transom I would rather avoid having the dinghy
bump or rub the back of the boat.

Do you keep an outboard on the dinghy while towing?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Aug 15, 2017, 1:50 PM john wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any owners of 38 Landfall or any other C&C, keep/store their tender on the
> foredeck. I am thinking of having Chocks made that at minimum, I can keep a
> rowing wood tender thats 10 ft long on the foredeck. Not sure about while
> under sail. Thoughts?
>
> Thanks
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

John

For short trips I keep the dinghy (10' RIB) on the dinghy tow.  On longer trips 
or over nighters I joist it to the fore deck.  It's ok for sailing but a bit of 
a pain when anchoring.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 15, 2017, at 1:49 PM, john wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Any owners of 38 Landfall or any other C&C, keep/store their tender on the 
> foredeck. I am thinking of having Chocks made that at minimum, I can keep a 
> rowing wood tender thats 10 ft long on the foredeck. Not sure about while 
> under sail. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Small area deck core replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If the area isn't too big then you would probably be well suited to simply
fill the void with epoxy thickened with light or medium weight silica.  You
might choose balsa saw dust instead.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 16, 2017 6:31 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has a section of deck core, limited solely to the area
> under the sliding companionway hood that has become rotted and needs to be
> replaced.  This was caused by the sliding hatch stop being slammed too many
> times by the DPO and the stop being solely held into the deck by wood
> screws.
>
> So, when I cut the deck and replace that area of core (it is probably
> about 18" x 36", would you recommend using end grain balsa core, or going
> with foam core?  I have heard that getting foam core to stick during repair
> jobs can be difficult, but that's solely what I have heard, and I certainly
> want better input.  Would any of you know the core thickness, and a good
> place to get it?
>
> No rush, this will wait until our rainy season is over, and I have
> everything really well sealed under there for now.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Small area deck core replacement

[Matti Airas via CnC-List]

Hi,

Not directly answering your question, but there's a Danish guy called Mads
Dahlke who's doing a complete core replacement on the deck of his project
sailboat. He has an addictive YouTube channel on the project and he's
discussing the topic in detail. If you have a bit of extra time, you might
want to check it out: https://www.youtube.com/user/madsdahlke

Cheers,

Matti
C&C 36 "Hurma"
Helsinki, Finland


On 16 August 2017 at 13:30, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has a section of deck core, limited solely to the area
> under the sliding companionway hood that has become rotted and needs to be
> replaced.  This was caused by the sliding hatch stop being slammed too many
> times by the DPO and the stop being solely held into the deck by wood
> screws.
>
> So, when I cut the deck and replace that area of core (it is probably
> about 18" x 36", would you recommend using end grain balsa core, or going
> with foam core?  I have heard that getting foam core to stick during repair
> jobs can be difficult, but that's solely what I have heard, and I certainly
> want better input.  Would any of you know the core thickness, and a good
> place to get it?
>
> No rush, this will wait until our rainy season is over, and I have
> everything really well sealed under there for now.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Small area deck core replacement

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Our 1994 C&C 37/40+ has a section of deck core, limited solely to the area 
under the sliding companionway hood that has become rotted and needs to be 
replaced.  This was caused by the sliding hatch stop being slammed too many 
times by the DPO and the stop being solely held into the deck by wood screws.  

So, when I cut the deck and replace that area of core (it is probably about 18" 
x 36", would you recommend using end grain balsa core, or going with foam core? 
 I have heard that getting foam core to stick during repair jobs can be 
difficult, but that's solely what I have heard, and I certainly want better 
input.  Would any of you know the core thickness, and a good place to get it?  

No rush, this will wait until our rainy season is over, and I have everything 
really well sealed under there for now.
Thanks in advance! Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello,
I am just replacing them on my 1994 C&C 37/40+ now.  If they are small chrome 
caps with cutouts to let the light out the bottom, then they should be the same 
as what I have.  Mine were stamped 90 on the metal base, which is equivalent to 
the same base as a 1142 bulb, but you're right that they are quite small when 
it comes to the size of the glass globe.
Here are the ones I ordered:  1142 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 12 SMD LED - BA15D 
Retrofit - 107 Lumens | BA15 Bayonet Base Bulbs | Marine LED Replacement Bulbs 
| LED Boat Lights and Marine LED Lights | Super Bright LEDs

  
|  
|   |  
1142 LED Bulb w/ Stock Cover - 12 SMD LED - BA15D Retrofit - 107 Lumens | BA15 
Bayonet Base Bulbs | Marine LED Replac...
 LED replacement bulbs can fit numerous boat and RV applications such as 
navigation lights, cabin lights, dome li...  |  |

  |

 

The BA15D (as opposed to a BAY15D) means that one contact on the bottom is for 
positive, one is for negative, and the base does not carry current.  When 
compared to an 1157, there are two positive contacts on the bottom, and the 
metal base is the negative contact (think brake lights on an older car).
This being said, they are arriving this week and I have NOT YET installed them, 
so I can confirm the fit after this weekend.

I decided to go with red lights so that we can leave them on while sailing at 
night to go down below. The ones shown are 100 lumens, which should be 
somewhere between 2 - 4 times brighter than the original bulbs based on this 
chart:  
https://www.rvledbulbs.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/datasheets/performancechart12vincandescentbulbs.pdf

You can probably tell I've been digging into this a bit over the last few 
weeks, as I've been in the process of replacing all my interior lights with 
LEDs, and the replacements for the navigation lights will arrive this week as 
well...
Hoping you find this helpful,  Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 To: C&C List  
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
 Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:27 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Courtesy lights replacement bulbs
   
Expanding on the LED discussion, does anyone know what type of bulb is in the 
courtesy lights in the Rob Ball era boats? They have to be small. 
Thanks,Kevin
1989 30-2___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!