Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

[David Miles via CnC-List]

One more thing, the sound insulation has dissolved and will be plugging all 
the in floor drains to the bilge. No idea if this old stuff has asbestos.


David
Impulse



On September 25, 2017 19:46:12 "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
 wrote:



Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C mkii I'm considering.
it's really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my
first visit.   This C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on
the hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover
of the hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective
list said about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural,
"minor cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite
"crackling" sound when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast
or upper deck or anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at
the time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect
chain plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA
this would be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other
updates mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently
rated for fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste
system during the survey).

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears
to be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the
bilge.

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water
levels on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts
on if this is a red flag?

It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of
"old boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :)
Is "old boat smell" curable?

I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss
next steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the
previous one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this
point.

Thanks again,

Lisle



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Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

[David Miles via CnC-List]

Following up on the last letter reply, our 30MK2 had a smell from standing 
water that was under a couple of floor panels in the galley that don't 
completely drain.. pull all and check. We replaced the bilge pump and wired 
in an auto switch.
Also put all the cushions in our SUV and took to the cleaners. Five days 
later the SUV was finally clear. Picking up took 30 minutes to clear dry 
cleaning smell. Point is, probably clean cushions if smelling sweaty.
Also had a diesel smell and thought we had a leaking tank. Diesel was 
evident around the base. After we had soaked it all up and disinfected, 
smells never returned.
Rudder should be checked and addressed. Ours needed drainage holes and then 
a patch.
No further issues. Make sure rudder moves fully stop to stop. Easy awkward 
adjustment if required.

Our boat is sound and we love it. And boy does she move...:)

Good luck

David Miles
Impulse
C 30MK2 (115)


On September 25, 2017 19:46:12 "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
 wrote:



Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C mkii I'm considering.
it's really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my
first visit.   This C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on
the hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover
of the hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective
list said about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural,
"minor cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite
"crackling" sound when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast
or upper deck or anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at
the time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect
chain plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA
this would be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other
updates mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently
rated for fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste
system during the survey).

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears
to be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the
bilge.

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water
levels on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts
on if this is a red flag?

It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of
"old boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :)
Is "old boat smell" curable?

I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss
next steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the
previous one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this
point.

Thanks again,

Lisle



--
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Re: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Standing water in the bilge during warm summer months will definitely make the 
boat stink.  The worst of the smell will likely go with the water when the 
bilge is pumped out.  There may be other areas (like bins) with stinky standing 
water.

Some water in the bilge when the boat is on the hard is not a huge issue, 
especially if the mast is stepped down below (which provides a path for 
rainwater).  There are undoubtedly some deck fitting drips as well, and the 
windows may leak (a common C issue).  There is a lot of good information on 
this list about re-bedding windows.

The “old boat smell” is probably mold/mildew.  It sounds like the boat needs a 
good scrubbing.  The cushions may hold on to the smell, which may not be 
curable (short of replacement).

On my old boat, which also came with an old boat smell, we scrubbed every inch, 
used chlorine-based cleaners where needed (be careful with this around fabrics 
and wood), and greatly improved air circulation by adding solar-powered fans to 
the forward hatches.  I have the luxury of leaving the boat at a dock with 
electric service, so I keep a fan running down below.  I also leave a 
dehumidifier running most of the time (which is a bit of a pain to keep 
removing and replacing when I take the boat out, and adds to the heat down 
below on warm days at the dock), and I plug in one of those Glade air 
fresheners into an outlet in the main salon.  This combination of things got 
rid of the old boat smell, and the Boss no longer mentions this issue.

Wet rudders are also common, but I’d want to know how it was fixed.  Some boat 
owners with this issue drill a hole near the bottom, let it drain during the 
off-season, then fill the hole before spring launch.  I took more aggressive 
action and dried mine out completely.

Bilge blowers are an absolute must on gasoline powered boats; not so much on 
diesel powered boats.  Still a good idea.  Probably about $150 to get one 
installed.

The chain plates should be easy to inspect and must be inspected.

The surveyor will likely tell you that he/she will not do a partial inspection 
on a three-year-old survey, especially since you were not the person who 
ordered the 2014 survey.  Arguing this point is probably a lost cause.  Make 
sure the surveyor knows how to use and interpret a moisture meter.  Not all 
surveyors are competent in this “art.”

Good luck! 

From: Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2017 9:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lisle Kingery, PhD 
Subject: Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C mkii I'm considering. it's 
really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a 
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my first 
visit.   This C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on the 
hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover of the 
hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective list said 
about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural, "minor 
cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite "crackling" sound 
when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast or upper deck or 
anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the 
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at the 
time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect chain 
plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA this would 
be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other updates 
mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently rated for 
fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste system during the 
survey). 

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears to 
be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the bilge. 

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water levels 
on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts on if this 
is a red flag?


It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of "old 
boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :) Is "old 
boat smell" curable?


I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss next 
steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the previous 
one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this point.

Thanks again,

Lisle



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  

Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C mkii I'm considering.
it's really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my
first visit.   This C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on
the hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover
of the hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective
list said about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural,
"minor cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite
"crackling" sound when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast
or upper deck or anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at
the time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect
chain plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA
this would be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other
updates mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently
rated for fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste
system during the survey).

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears
to be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the
bilge.

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water
levels on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts
on if this is a red flag?

It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of
"old boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :)
Is "old boat smell" curable?

I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss
next steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the
previous one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this
point.

Thanks again,

Lisle
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List How long do zinc last

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I hauled my new-to-me boat not long ago. Only to find the new zinc I had my 
diver put on 2 weeks prior were over 25% gone. Something deffintly amiss here. 
I checked for stray voltage between the neutral on the shore power cord and the 
water I had 0.65 volts. Is this high or about normal?
 To my knowledge I don't have a galvanic isolator. It is on the ever expanding 
list. I know that I have some wiring issues on the DC side. Mostly poor wiring 
techniques. I also have what appears to be some sort of coil/transformer in 
line on the output cable from the alternator.  Just the alternator cables and a 
ground (black) wire. Anybody familiar with this?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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Re: Stus-List crew for C 32 in SF Bay

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Good reply shrewd what will the Enterprise Captain do now

On Monday, September 25, 2017, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Only if you reciprocate, Edd. I send you tickets to SFO. You send me
> tickets to JFK. Plus the sailing. Deal? :)
>
> Violeta
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 4:49 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Violeta,
>>
>> Would love to! Please send two round trip tickets between JFK and SFO —
>> JetBlue Mint Class, please.
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 25, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Anyone interested and available to sail a C 32 with me in San Francisco
>> Bay this week? Not my boat, so I am not allowed to single-hand. I need one
>> crew, will take more, if there's interest. Any weekday after 3 pm works for
>> me with preference to Tue-Thu. May be able to sail more than once, too.
>>
>> Jib and main only, we'll just cruise around for a few hours. I am
>> new(ish) to the Bay Area and love exploring it under sail.
>>
>> If you are interested, please email or call/text me re. days/times of
>> availability and experience.
>>
>> Fair winds,
>>
>> Violeta
>>
>> 857-366-1706 <(857)%20366-1706>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>

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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

that is about the same I get, maybe a little more.

Leslie
Phoenix
C 1983
Alamitos Bay Marina.


On Mon, 9/25/17, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged 
in to shore power
 To: "C List" 
 Cc: "Bruce Whitmore" 
 Date: Monday, September 25, 2017, 7:45 AM
 
 Hello
 all,
 I just wanted to check in with  you
 folks.  For those of you who are in saltwater, on a
 dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you
 expect to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular
 report from our diver, who, after about 6 months, indicated
 that the zinc is down to about 70% of new.
 Thanks for the input, Bruce
 Whitmore
 
 (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 ___
 
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 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

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Re: Stus-List crew for C 32 in SF Bay

[Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List]

Only if you reciprocate, Edd. I send you tickets to SFO. You send me
tickets to JFK. Plus the sailing. Deal? :)

Violeta



On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 4:49 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Violeta,
>
> Would love to! Please send two round trip tickets between JFK and SFO —
> JetBlue Mint Class, please.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 25, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Anyone interested and available to sail a C 32 with me in San Francisco
> Bay this week? Not my boat, so I am not allowed to single-hand. I need one
> crew, will take more, if there's interest. Any weekday after 3 pm works for
> me with preference to Tue-Thu. May be able to sail more than once, too.
>
> Jib and main only, we'll just cruise around for a few hours. I am new(ish)
> to the Bay Area and love exploring it under sail.
>
> If you are interested, please email or call/text me re. days/times of
> availability and experience.
>
> Fair winds,
>
> Violeta
>
> 857-366-1706 <(857)%20366-1706>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar sea water pump replace

[tom via CnC-List]

Josh,
At that price, it would be tough to refuse. I will rebuild and keep the old
as a spare or for a quicker way to change impellers, but I need to get
something in there now as this one is completely apart.
Poseidon is overseas...Greece?
Tom Oryniak
33-1 Carry On
Raritan Bay NJ

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 11:13 AM, tom via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Having a need to replace the sea water pump in my early model  2GM20FV
> (Engine #05410) the sticker shock of $500 has me thinking rebuild. After
> taking it apart (another story) and itemizing parts needed I found there is
> a Johnson pump that was used on later models and is half the cost. My
> engine does not have the YEU designation (European assembled model) that
> this pump was made for.
> I am  wondering if the newer pump will match the mounting dimensions of my
> 2gm20FV. Has anyone replaced the early model sea water pumps with the newer
> Johnson and can tell me what difficulties if any to expect?
> Thanks much,
> Tom Oryniak
> 33-1, Carry On
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sea Water pump - 2gm20f

[tom via CnC-List]

Thanks Kelly, I went local as I need it quickly and compared it to the old.
As you mentioned, it looks to fit right in there. The hose intake and
outlet are slightly different but I believe there's enough room.
One point the parts guy mentioned was that it would need a different belt.
Do you recall anything about that? The pulley is the same size.
Tom

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 12:28 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> check with *Bay shore marine in Annapolis.  *
>
>
> I bought the newer version recently and it was "plug & play" install.
>
> This newer pump uses an "O" ring, not a gasket.
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> '91 C 30MKII
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List crew for C 32 in SF Bay

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Violeta,

Would love to! Please send two round trip tickets between JFK and SFO — JetBlue 
Mint Class, please. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




> On Sep 25, 2017, at 4:37 PM, Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Anyone interested and available to sail a C 32 with me in San Francisco Bay 
> this week? Not my boat, so I am not allowed to single-hand. I need one crew, 
> will take more, if there's interest. Any weekday after 3 pm works for me with 
> preference to Tue-Thu. May be able to sail more than once, too.
> 
> Jib and main only, we'll just cruise around for a few hours. I am new(ish) to 
> the Bay Area and love exploring it under sail.  
> 
> If you are interested, please email or call/text me re. days/times of 
> availability and experience. 
> 
> Fair winds,
> 
> Violeta
> 
> 857-366-1706
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List crew for C 32 in SF Bay

[Violeta M Ivanova via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Anyone interested and available to sail a C 32 with me in San Francisco
Bay this week? Not my boat, so I am not allowed to single-hand. I need one
crew, will take more, if there's interest. Any weekday after 3 pm works for
me with preference to Tue-Thu. May be able to sail more than once, too.

Jib and main only, we'll just cruise around for a few hours. I am new(ish)
to the Bay Area and love exploring it under sail.

If you are interested, please email or call/text me re. days/times of
availability and experience.

Fair winds,

Violeta

857-366-1706
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Stus-List Main Halyard Sheeves

[Tony Wroblewski via CnC-List]

Has anyone had experience with changing the sheeves with the mast up? We have a 
Cincel mast and there are no access points on the side of the mast for removal 
of the axle. Assuming there's a cap to remove on top.
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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

The engine ground (negative).  It would be easier for me since my engine
access is through the laz.

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 1:08 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Where do you connect overboard zincs? I would think directly to the shaft
> or engine but the ones I've seen don't have a cable long enough for that.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> > On Sep 25, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.  Great surface area for
> consumption, fast inspection and stowed quickly before leaving dock.
> > Bill Dakin
> > S/V Tapestry
> > 25MKII
>
>
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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Where do you connect overboard zincs? I would think directly to the shaft or 
engine but the ones I've seen don't have a cable long enough for that. 

Cheers, Al


> On Sep 25, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.  Great surface area for consumption, 
> fast inspection and stowed quickly before leaving dock.
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.  Great surface area for consumption,
fast inspection and stowed quickly before leaving dock.
Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25MKII
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Re: Stus-List where to begin.

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Correct.  Mine were not tinned.  I didn't replace with tinned; just used auto 
parts.  But the originals lasted 40yrs in fresh water so these should 
definitely outlast me.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2017 11:24 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List where to begin.
   
Ron — were the conductors in the battery cables bare copper (not tinned)?  
There’s good chance that was the result of the batteries outgassing; the gas is 
corrosive.  That’s part of the reason (along with salt corrosion) that ABYC 
requires tinned strands in marine-grade wiring.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 25, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I'm in fresh water and was surprised to find corrosion in the wires of the 
battery cables many inches back from the terminals.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

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Stus-List Sea Water pump - 2gm20f

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

check with Bay shore marine in Annapolis.


I bought the newer version recently and it was "plug & play" install.

This newer pump uses an "O" ring, not a gasket.


Pete W.

'91 C 30MKII

Deltaville, Va.

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Re: Stus-List where to begin.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Ron — were the conductors in the battery cables bare copper (not tinned)?  
There’s good chance that was the result of the batteries outgassing; the gas is 
corrosive.  That’s part of the reason (along with salt corrosion) that ABYC 
requires tinned strands in marine-grade wiring.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 25, 2017, at 11:19 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm in fresh water and was surprised to find corrosion in the wires of the 
> battery cables many inches back from the terminals.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL

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Re: Stus-List where to begin.

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I'm in fresh water and was surprised to find corrosion in the wires of the 
battery cables many inches back from the terminals.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bwhitmore 
 Sent: Friday, September 22, 2017 5:52 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List where to begin.
   
Also pull & check the wires themselves.  We had ground wires corrode so badly 
they wouldn't carry voltage, much less serious amps.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/22/17 3:06 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List where to begin. 
Bad connection.
That’s as simple as I can make it…   :^)
Check ground wiring at the engine and battery for loose or corroded terminals 
and wire; check starter wiring connections for loose or corroded terminals and 
wire.  Same for the start button on the control panel.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce, the other thing to consider is, how long do you wanted them to
last?  I say EVERYTIME you haul the boat, grease the through-hulls, grease
the max-prop, and replace the anodes.  For me this happens once every year
so if I have any anode left after 1 year then I "wasted" money.  If tou are
going on a world wide journey then making the anodes last and checking them
every 3 months is prudent.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Sep 25, 2017, 10:46 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in
> saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you
> expect to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver,
> who, after about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of
> new.
>
> Thanks for the input,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'm on shore power with galvanic isolators in my circuits.  After 6 months
I've got almost 100% of my zincs.  75% is not bad.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 11:33 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm in brackish water (about 50% as salty as the ocean).  I get my zincs
> from boatzincs.com and they recommend using a more active metal than zinc
> in brackish water - aluminum.
>
> http://boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_A-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf
>
> http://boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_B-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf
>
> About 5 years ago I used 2 extra large zinc shaft anodes and the zinc
> Max-Prop cone anode.  I would stay on shore power and didn't have a
> galvanic isolator.  A good amount of anode would be gone after 1 year.
> About 3 years ago I installed a shaft dampener which electrically isolates
> the shaft from the engine.  A considerable amount of anode was being left
> at the conclusion of 1 year.  So 2 years ago I shifted to 1 extra large
> aluminum shaft anode and an aluminum cone anode.  Last year's haul out
> showed about 50% remaining after 1 year so I stayed with that combination.
> I've also installed solar panels which during the off season and
> intermittently during the season allow me to stay off shore power.  I have
> stayed on the same dock but moved slips and the number of slip neighbors
> has changed.  Some neglected boats have received maintenance and some
> maintained boats have gone without.
>
> As you can see there are quite a few variables which make dialing in the
> correct type and number of anodes challenging.  I have attempted to learn
> what disadvantage being "overzinced" holds and since our boats are FRP and
> I have Marlon through-hulls, no applicable answer was found. Only that it
> is a waste of money.  In my case, it seems far better to error on the side
> of too much than not enough.
>
> As for the shore power connection it is your neighbors who don't have
> enough anode that are using yours by way of the ground wire in the shore
> power cable.  As for the shaft coupling isolator there is a way to jumper a
> wire across the coupler but I could find no professional opinion or
> scientific study which sufficiently convinced me that I needed to install
> said jumper.  The boat is "bonded" to the keel and the keel to the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 25, 2017, 10:46 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in
>> saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you
>> expect to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver,
>> who, after about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of
>> new.
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar sea water pump replace

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Rebuild it.

http://poseidonmarine.eu/inboard_engines_product.php?p=17=wppi

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Mon, Sep 25, 2017, 11:13 AM tom via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Having a need to replace the sea water pump in my early model  2GM20FV
> (Engine #05410) the sticker shock of $500 has me thinking rebuild. After
> taking it apart (another story) and itemizing parts needed I found there is
> a Johnson pump that was used on later models and is half the cost. My
> engine does not have the YEU designation (European assembled model) that
> this pump was made for.
> I am  wondering if the newer pump will match the mounting dimensions of my
> 2gm20FV. Has anyone replaced the early model sea water pumps with the newer
> Johnson and can tell me what difficulties if any to expect?
> Thanks much,
> Tom Oryniak
> 33-1, Carry On
> Raritan Bay NJ
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacement for ST6000+ control head

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Tony — sorry for the delay in responding.

The vintage of autopilot course computer you mention was strictly a SeaTalk1 
device; most of them were actually sold as Autohelm-branded products.  The new 
control heads are pretty much all SeaTalkNG-compatible for control.  Your best 
bet is going to be to find a used or old-stock ST Series control head, as the 
new p Series won’t work for you.  I’m seeing used ST6000+ heads on eBay for 
between $300 and $400.

Let me know if you’d like some help acquiring and shipping one, as you’re 
obviously NOT in the US currently…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 22, 2017, at 6:43 PM, Anthony Mitchell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I guess this would be directed to Fred but any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> We have a Raymarine Type 150 course computer hooked up to a TP1 linear drive 
> with an ST6000+ control head. The display on the control head has blacked 
> out, but the controller still works - it's a bit hit and miss to operate now! 
> I've had a look around on the internet but can't seem to get a definitive 
> answer on a replacement control head to drive the Type 150 with the advanced 
> features.
> 
> So, does anyone know if any of the new series control heads are fully 
> compatible with the 150 course computer.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Tony Mitchell
> SV Irish Melody, 
> 1983 LF38 #150
> Vuda, Fiji

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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm in brackish water (about 50% as salty as the ocean).  I get my zincs
from boatzincs.com and they recommend using a more active metal than zinc
in brackish water - aluminum.

http://boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_A-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf

http://boatzincs.com/pdfs/Chart_B-Which_Anodes_Should_I_Use.pdf

About 5 years ago I used 2 extra large zinc shaft anodes and the zinc
Max-Prop cone anode.  I would stay on shore power and didn't have a
galvanic isolator.  A good amount of anode would be gone after 1 year.
About 3 years ago I installed a shaft dampener which electrically isolates
the shaft from the engine.  A considerable amount of anode was being left
at the conclusion of 1 year.  So 2 years ago I shifted to 1 extra large
aluminum shaft anode and an aluminum cone anode.  Last year's haul out
showed about 50% remaining after 1 year so I stayed with that combination.
I've also installed solar panels which during the off season and
intermittently during the season allow me to stay off shore power.  I have
stayed on the same dock but moved slips and the number of slip neighbors
has changed.  Some neglected boats have received maintenance and some
maintained boats have gone without.

As you can see there are quite a few variables which make dialing in the
correct type and number of anodes challenging.  I have attempted to learn
what disadvantage being "overzinced" holds and since our boats are FRP and
I have Marlon through-hulls, no applicable answer was found. Only that it
is a waste of money.  In my case, it seems far better to error on the side
of too much than not enough.

As for the shore power connection it is your neighbors who don't have
enough anode that are using yours by way of the ground wire in the shore
power cable.  As for the shaft coupling isolator there is a way to jumper a
wire across the coupler but I could find no professional opinion or
scientific study which sufficiently convinced me that I needed to install
said jumper.  The boat is "bonded" to the keel and the keel to the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Sep 25, 2017, 10:46 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in
> saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you
> expect to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver,
> who, after about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of
> new.
>
> Thanks for the input,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Yanmar sea water pump replace

[tom via CnC-List]

Having a need to replace the sea water pump in my early model  2GM20FV
(Engine #05410) the sticker shock of $500 has me thinking rebuild. After
taking it apart (another story) and itemizing parts needed I found there is
a Johnson pump that was used on later models and is half the cost. My
engine does not have the YEU designation (European assembled model) that
this pump was made for.
I am  wondering if the newer pump will match the mounting dimensions of my
2gm20FV. Has anyone replaced the early model sea water pumps with the newer
Johnson and can tell me what difficulties if any to expect?
Thanks much,
Tom Oryniak
33-1, Carry On
Raritan Bay NJ
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Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Bruce

I haul Honey in late Mark of each year and the shaft zinc remains about
80/85%

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
C 39TM
Savannah, GA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
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On Mon, Sep 25, 2017 at 10:45 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in
> saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you
> expect to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver,
> who, after about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of
> new.
>
> Thanks for the input,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I just wanted to check in with  you folks.  For those of you who are in 
saltwater, on a dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you expect 
to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular report from our diver, who, after 
about 6 months, indicated that the zinc is down to about 70% of new.
Thanks for the input, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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