Re: Stus-List universal m4-30 air filter

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The tube is supposed to vent accumulated  gasses to the intake.  Usually
exhaust gas blow by the rings.  Some oil carry over is normal and a brillow
paf style if separator can usually be found at the valve cover where the
tube attaches.  Excessive blow by is indicative of stuck, worn, or broken
rings or other internal problems.

I have no idea what the PO's maintenance practices were or what oil he
used.  What I do know is that I got stuck rings the very first season I
owned the boat.  I successfully unstuck them but had a similarly wet air
filter as you described.  I installed a blow by canaster to monitor and
catch the oil instead of soaking the air filter.  It allows me to monitor
the amount of blow by oil too.  I've been using Amsoil diesel oil since and
in recent years have noticed a considerable decrease in the amount of oil
accumulated.

You can see the canister in this video.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

And you can buy one here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQAJY9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4Qw3AbJ0ZVY8W

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed the air filter holder from my engine today to check on whether
> it needed cleaning and was surprised to find the filter soaked in oil and a
> significant amount of oil inside the housing.  I found there was a
> tygon/rubber tube running from a fitting on the top of the engine that
> ended just above the air filter housing and had dripped oil such that it
> then ran into the case.
>
> 1.  What is this tube and what it is connected to?  I can’t find it in my
> Universal manual.  Oil pressure relief?  If so, why would oil be coming out
> of it?  I had not noticed the engine oil being low, so I don’t think it is
> always leaking, but not sure.
> 2.  Where should the tube go?  It seems like it will create a mess
> whereever it goes but I presume it is supposed to drain into the the space
> below the engine, but it is too short to do that effectively.  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Lube them a little with Vaseline or dish soap just to be sure.  I made this
video a year ago for work.  Different pump... Same idea.  It demonstrates
the Globe Run-Dry impeller and the Jabsco impeller puller.

https://youtu.be/AYs662eKTFs

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 10:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I checked the impeller on my Sherwood water pump and it was OK, but I am
> unclear how to reassemble it.  Here is a diagram of the design.
>
>
> http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd_ident=200144-51=M4-30%20/%20M4-30A=Universal=Sherwood%20Water%20Pump_position==200144
>
> 1. It is unclear to me which way it rotates.  I am guessing it would
> rotate such that the vanes are moving from the inlet opening toward the
> outlet opening, but otherwise I don’t know how to tell.
>
> 2. I watched some YouTube videos about reassembly to get the vanes bent in
> the correct way and nothing I have seen describes this “new style” pump.
> The screws on this one come in from the rear (PITA to remove) and the key
> shaft are on the engine side.  The housing comes off with the tubing.  The
> videos describe rotating the impeller onto the staft in the correct
> direction while inserting the impeller into the housing.  But with the
> housing and shaft on different parts of the pump, you can’t do that.  I am
> guessing that you would put the impeller on the shaft and then somehow try
> to bend the vanes as you push the housing over it, but that seems like it
> will be really hard to get all the vanes right, especially because you
> can’t see them once the housing starts to cover the impeller.  I am hoping
> there is a “trick” to doing this that I am missing.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Your assumption is correct.

The vanes travel from inlet to outlet the long way around the 
housing. The cam allows the water to be squeezed so it goes through 
the outlet port.


Although not necessary, orienting them in the direction of travel is 
a good practice.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 08:10 PM 4/22/2018, you wrote:
Thanks Alan- That sure wil make the job easier (at least until 
someone disagrees). I love this list!  Dave


On Apr 22, 2018, at 10:58 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


It doesn't matter which way the vanes are turned, when you install 
the impeller.  As soon as the engine turns over, the vanes will 
correct themselves.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Thanks Alan- That sure wil make the job easier (at least until someone 
disagrees). I love this list!  Dave

> On Apr 22, 2018, at 10:58 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It doesn't matter which way the vanes are turned, when you install the 
> impeller.  As soon as the engine turns over, the vanes will correct 
> themselves.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

It doesn't matter which way the vanes are turned, when you install the
impeller.  As soon as the engine turns over, the vanes will correct
themselves.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Sun, Apr 22, 2018 at 7:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I checked the impeller on my Sherwood water pump and it was OK, but I am
> unclear how to reassemble it.  Here is a diagram of the design.
>
> http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.
> php?owner=mdd_ident=200144-51=M4-30%20/%20M4-30A=
> Universal=Sherwood%20Water%20Pump_position=
> =200144
> 
>
> 1. It is unclear to me which way it rotates.  I am guessing it would
> rotate such that the vanes are moving from the inlet opening toward the
> outlet opening, but otherwise I don’t know how to tell.
>
> 2. I watched some YouTube videos about reassembly to get the vanes bent in
> the correct way and nothing I have seen describes this “new style” pump.
> The screws on this one come in from the rear (PITA to remove) and the key
> shaft are on the engine side.  The housing comes off with the tubing.  The
> videos describe rotating the impeller onto the staft in the correct
> direction while inserting the impeller into the housing.  But with the
> housing and shaft on different parts of the pump, you can’t do that.  I am
> guessing that you would put the impeller on the shaft and then somehow try
> to bend the vanes as you push the housing over it, but that seems like it
> will be really hard to get all the vanes right, especially because you
> can’t see them once the housing starts to cover the impeller.  I am hoping
> there is a “trick” to doing this that I am missing.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> gHvAiJSo7ngSFECpwLxrGGdocr6j0NtwZFtKzEBJ-Js=
> sMbP5eqUh9GuZaGmt4QpCfWZR2pXuOYQ5LG0bUut7js=
>
>
>
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Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I checked the impeller on my Sherwood water pump and it was OK, but I am 
unclear how to reassemble it.  Here is a diagram of the design.

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd_ident=200144-51=M4-30%20/%20M4-30A=Universal=Sherwood%20Water%20Pump_position==200144

1. It is unclear to me which way it rotates.  I am guessing it would rotate 
such that the vanes are moving from the inlet opening toward the outlet 
opening, but otherwise I don’t know how to tell.

2. I watched some YouTube videos about reassembly to get the vanes bent in the 
correct way and nothing I have seen describes this “new style” pump.  The 
screws on this one come in from the rear (PITA to remove) and the key shaft are 
on the engine side.  The housing comes off with the tubing.  The videos 
describe rotating the impeller onto the staft in the correct direction while 
inserting the impeller into the housing.  But with the housing and shaft on 
different parts of the pump, you can’t do that.  I am guessing that you would 
put the impeller on the shaft and then somehow try to bend the vanes as you 
push the housing over it, but that seems like it will be really hard to get all 
the vanes right, especially because you can’t see them once the housing starts 
to cover the impeller.  I am hoping there is a “trick” to doing this that I am 
missing.  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List universal m4-30 air filter

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I removed the air filter holder from my engine today to check on whether it 
needed cleaning and was surprised to find the filter soaked in oil and a 
significant amount of oil inside the housing.  I found there was a tygon/rubber 
tube running from a fitting on the top of the engine that ended just above the 
air filter housing and had dripped oil such that it then ran into the case.  

1.  What is this tube and what it is connected to?  I can’t find it in my 
Universal manual.  Oil pressure relief?  If so, why would oil be coming out of 
it?  I had not noticed the engine oil being low, so I don’t think it is always 
leaking, but not sure.
2.  Where should the tube go?  It seems like it will create a mess whereever it 
goes but I presume it is supposed to drain into the the space below the engine, 
but it is too short to do that effectively.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Wax

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between a 
wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I  am using 
Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite astounded when he 
came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache. Everybody with wax on 
gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not stick to Rejex . And he was 
sold.
 Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else just 
mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow is where 
you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer. 

Bill Coleman
C 39

On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:
Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
C 40
Peregrine
Now,
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Should be there at the bottom.

On Sun, Apr 22, 2018 at 7:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Added where?  I checked the original url and only found the original
> pictures.
>
> Josh
>
> On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 6:54 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It’s done!  Photos of the finished product were added.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 16, 2018 at 7:34 PM  wrote:
>>
>>> Looking great Joel.  The shade will be much appreciated.  And it is a
>>> great place for the solar panels.  Out of sight and out of mind.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>>
>>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>>
>>> *Hampton VA*
>>>
>>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Joel
>>> Aronson via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Monday, April 16, 2018 11:26
>>> *To:* cnc-list 
>>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Danny,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I also expect to add solar, so this made more sense than new canvas.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> For $300 worth of materials I took a shot!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Joel
>>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I used it for years on my 27.   The build up got so bad that it cost me over 
$1,000 to have it removed.   The gelcoat underneath was like new though.   Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Sent: Sun, Apr 22, 2018 7:54 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
 C 40
Peregrine
Now,
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Ron,
 Are the spinnakers symetrical or asym?
Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Apr 22, 2018 at 10:12 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have four genoas, two spinnakers (3/4 & 1.5 oz.) and a mainsail
> (Mylar-Kevlar) that I don’t need.  Some are in almost perfect condition and
> the others are in very good to excellent condition.  Check out the link:
>
> https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgwwnK_wNiF3vMoCA which includes a
> spreadsheet with sizes and descriptions along with folders showing detailed
> photos.  I’ll donate 2% of all proceeds to Stus-List.
>
>
>
> Around May 10th, I’ll be driving to VA and could arrange to meet on way
> down to deliver.
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
 C 40
Peregrine
Now,
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Added where?  I checked the original url and only found the original
pictures.

Josh

On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 6:54 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It’s done!  Photos of the finished product were added.
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Apr 16, 2018 at 7:34 PM  wrote:
>
>> Looking great Joel.  The shade will be much appreciated.  And it is a
>> great place for the solar panels.  Out of sight and out of mind.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 16, 2018 11:26
>> *To:* cnc-list 
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1
>>
>>
>>
>> Danny,
>>
>>
>>
>> I also expect to add solar, so this made more sense than new canvas.
>>
>>
>>
>> For $300 worth of materials I took a shot!
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel
>>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

It’s done!  Photos of the finished product were added.

Joel

On Mon, Apr 16, 2018 at 7:34 PM  wrote:

> Looking great Joel.  The shade will be much appreciated.  And it is a
> great place for the solar panels.  Out of sight and out of mind.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, April 16, 2018 11:26
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Building a hard bimini - part 1
>
>
>
> Danny,
>
>
>
> I also expect to add solar, so this made more sense than new canvas.
>
>
>
> For $300 worth of materials I took a shot!
>
>
>
> Joel
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I use Rejex on Touché’s white boot stripe. Noticeable difference when removing 
the yuck. 

Awlcare for the topsides. 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 22, 2018, at 11:58 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rejex.
> 
> http://rejex.com/marine/
> 
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
> 6-oz-/14823.uts
> 
> 
> Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
> swears by it.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Stus-List Wax
> 
> Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
> summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
> that would work for gel coat.
> Cheers
> Andy
> Formerly,
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Now, 
> Baltic 47
> Masquerade
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
 C 40
Peregrine
Now, 
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have four genoas, two spinnakers (3/4 & 1.5 oz.) and a mainsail 
(Mylar-Kevlar) that I don’t need.  Some are in almost perfect condition and the 
others are in very good to excellent condition.  Check out the link: 

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgwwnK_wNiF3vMoCA which includes a spreadsheet 
with sizes and descriptions along with folders showing detailed photos.  I’ll 
donate 2% of all proceeds to Stus-List.

 

Around May 10th, I’ll be driving to VA and could arrange to meet on way down to 
deliver.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

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