Stus-List Bomar hatch gaskets

2018-05-12 Thread Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
Hey All,

I have recently acquired a C 41 (any one interested in a 34, please
contact me!) and I would like to replace Bomar Hatch gaskets.  It appears
they are all the same spec and vintage.  Does anyone have a good source and
also tell me what size to order?

thanks,
Chuck

*Chuck Borge*
*C 41 Tenacious*
*Somerset, MA *
*508-642-3557*
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

2018-05-12 Thread Ainslie via CnC-List 
I appreciate the comments from everyone. The 1/4 inch packing I used went
into the gland nut with just finger pressure, so I'm assuming it won't be so
snug as to overheat the shaft. I tightened the gland nut only by hand. I
have an IR thermometer at the ready for Wednesday's launch to monitor heat
at the stuffing box. If it runs hot, I guess I'll have to unpack and
downsize the stuffing once more. Where my gland nut is, there's a faint
bluish discolouration on the shaft which is likely evidence of some past
heat or glaze from the packing - no scoring though. I'll be keeping an eye
on that as well.

Jason Ainslie, Spirit
1984 C 35-3
Bayfield, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: May-12-18 3:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

One other thing on packing, for those who do a seasonal haul out. Don't
freak out if there is a fair amount of water coming in around the packing in
the spring, so long as you haven't monkeyed with the stuffing box over the
winter. Give it a day or two before you decide to move the packing nut. If
it was not leaking in the fall, give the flax some time to absorb some
water, and the leak will usually stop. Over tightening is usually what wears
it out, so long as there are no major mechanical problems that lead to
excessive vibration and so forth. 

Steve Thomas

C
C MKIII

PS: 3/16 shaft packing will work for the piston rod on the old WC heads that
many of our boats came equipped with. Cheaper than buying a whole kit, and
even those are getting hard to find. 



 john sandford via CnC-List  wrote: 
 

Hi Jason,

Coincidentally, I had the same thing this spring.

Completely removed the shaft log, cleaned it up, and replaced the hose and
clamps. (Buck Algonquin – Don’t ship it by FedEx BTW)

Partly as it was on the ‘to do’ list, and partly because of a new shaft
(1-1/8”) and prop.

The original packing was simply wound around in a one piece spiral BUT it
worked like that for 30+ years.

Didn’t measure the size of what came out….my bad.

Same thing as you, I used a calliper, did the math, bought ¼”.

When I tried to fit the packing in the nut, it would not go without a fight.
I had to beat it into a rectangle, and then I only got 3 pieces in, as I had
reduced the width, but then increased the height.

A smaller packing would have gone in easier and after tightening the nut,
the opposite occurred. I.e. increased the width, but reduced the height.
3/16 I should have used, and  is now in my parts list going forward.

As for the concern over 3 turns being enough. 

If the shaft log is 12” below WL, then the pressure on the packing is about
0.5 PSI.

(An Engineer would give you 86 decimal places but directionally for every 2
ft head = 1 PSIG)

So the pressure is irrelevant/diddley squat , we are not dealing with a
through hull on Das Boot.

3 turns  vs. 5 turns vs. 1 turn is irrelevant as long as it does the job.

What IS important are the arrangement of the packing cuts and the tightness
of the nut.

Arrangement;

Second Ring = 180 deg to the first

Third Ring = 60 degrees to the second

Subsequent rings = 60 degrees to the previous.

Tightness;

ALWAYS have a drip coming in. This will primarily indicate that you have a
clearance of some kind that will prevent overheating of the shaft.

If you don’t have a drip, then you have no indication of the tightness range
which could be anywhere from; “Just above a drip” to “I’m going to generate
enough heat to either burn the packing or destroy the shaft” or both.

I don’t know much about a lot of other tech stuff,  but shafting,
mechanical,  etc.  Yes I do.

 As a Marine Engineer , (an old one) I was trained on a ship with 42,000
SHP, 36” shaft and 4” square Flax packing. Took a full few days to clean out
the old and fit new. (in Dry-dock of course)  The above  installation
procedure was basic and the drip was checked every 2 hrs when underway.
(Don’t want to replace a burnt 36” shaft.)

Submitted with respect of the knowledge/experience of others

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Season Splash

2018-05-12 Thread detroito91 via CnC-List 
Here in the sunny south...its 94 degrees. Frig loaded with fresh beer and 
yogurt, cheese cut and sails full!Looling forward to rendezvous in Annapolis. 
Jim schwartz SEA YA!38 LFwashington nc 
 Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/11/18  8:40 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bwhitmore  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Season Splash 
Ahh,  reminds me of our annual launch and run fro. Milwaukee to Chicago in the 
spring.  No matter how well prepared I thought I was, some last minute thing 
would creep into the picture.
It's that time of year that always portends the warm summer sailing - just the 
anticipation felt so good...
Bruce Whitmore Now in Madeira Beach Florida



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/11/18  8:29 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller  Subject: 
Stus-List Season Splash 

We launched this morning for the season.  Launch
  slot was at 8 am with a 1:45 drive to the boat.  Had to VC-17 the
  cradle pad areas before splashing.  Rained on us from the house
  until about 20 minutes from boat.  Then the rain held off until we
  were at the dock and tied up.  Then the rain came in buckets.  Did
  I mention that it was 39 degrees F with the rain?

  

  Boat is floating.  New PYI Packless shaft seal, re-installed the
  rebuilt water heater and cleaned up the cabin before we finally
  headed back home, cold and wet.  When we go back, we will install
  the Cajun Ropes line set, start on the Autopilot installation, and
  charge the water system.  The admiral is ready to start on the
  teak taffrail, handrails and companionway.  Not to mention bending
  on the sails and planning the lazy jack design.

  

  Neil Schiller

  1983 C 35-3, #28

  "Grace"

  Whitehall, Michigan

  WLYC 


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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Stuffing box material

2018-05-12 Thread Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
One other thing on packing, for those who do a seasonal haul out. Don't freak 
out if there is a fair amount of water coming in around the packing in the 
spring, so long as you haven't monkeyed with the stuffing box over the winter. 
Give it a day or two before you decide to move the packing nut. If it was not 
leaking in the fall, give the flax some time to absorb some water, and the leak 
will usually stop. Over tightening is usually what wears it out, so long as 
there are no major mechanical problems that lead to excessive vibration and so 
forth. 

Steve Thomas

C
C MKIII

PS: 3/16 shaft packing will work for the piston rod on the old WC heads that 
many of our boats came equipped with. Cheaper than buying a whole kit, and even 
those are getting hard to find. 



 john sandford via CnC-List  wrote: 
 

Hi Jason,

Coincidentally, I had the same thing this spring.

Completely removed the shaft log, cleaned it up, and replaced the hose and
clamps. (Buck Algonquin – Don’t ship it by FedEx BTW)

Partly as it was on the ‘to do’ list, and partly because of a new shaft
(1-1/8”) and prop.

The original packing was simply wound around in a one piece spiral BUT it
worked like that for 30+ years.

Didn’t measure the size of what came out….my bad.

Same thing as you, I used a calliper, did the math, bought ¼”.

When I tried to fit the packing in the nut, it would not go without a fight.
I had to beat it into a rectangle, and then I only got 3 pieces in, as I had
reduced the width, but then increased the height.

A smaller packing would have gone in easier and after tightening the nut,
the opposite occurred. I.e. increased the width, but reduced the height.
3/16 I should have used, and  is now in my parts list going forward.

As for the concern over 3 turns being enough. 

If the shaft log is 12” below WL, then the pressure on the packing is about
0.5 PSI.

(An Engineer would give you 86 decimal places but directionally for every 2
ft head = 1 PSIG)

So the pressure is irrelevant/diddley squat , we are not dealing with a
through hull on Das Boot.

3 turns  vs. 5 turns vs. 1 turn is irrelevant as long as it does the job.

What IS important are the arrangement of the packing cuts and the tightness
of the nut.

Arrangement;

Second Ring = 180 deg to the first

Third Ring = 60 degrees to the second

Subsequent rings = 60 degrees to the previous.

Tightness;

ALWAYS have a drip coming in. This will primarily indicate that you have a
clearance of some kind that will prevent overheating of the shaft.

If you don’t have a drip, then you have no indication of the tightness range
which could be anywhere from; “Just above a drip” to “I’m going to generate
enough heat to either burn the packing or destroy the shaft” or both.

I don’t know much about a lot of other tech stuff,  but shafting,
mechanical,  etc.  Yes I do.

 As a Marine Engineer , (an old one) I was trained on a ship with 42,000
SHP, 36” shaft and 4” square Flax packing. Took a full few days to clean out
the old and fit new. (in Dry-dock of course)  The above  installation
procedure was basic and the drip was checked every 2 hrs when underway.
(Don’t want to replace a burnt 36” shaft.)

Submitted with respect of the knowledge/experience of others

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Obscure C parts availability

2018-05-12 Thread David Miles via CnC-List 

Well done Al.

Are you planning to show them off at the C Rendezvous Aug. 10-12???

David Miles
C Impulse
Spruce Marina

On May 12, 2018 09:36:40 Allan Hester via CnC-List  
wrote:

For anyone searching for obscure C parts I found a source in Ontario.

South Shore Yachts was apparently the service department for C back in 
the day. Staff report they have many C specific parts in stock and have 
maintained relationships with the original parts manufacturers.


I was able to buy a new pair of C crests for the outside of the cabin.

https://southshoreyachts.com/

Al H.
C 35 Mk3
Vancouver, BC.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Obscure C parts availability

2018-05-12 Thread Allan Hester via CnC-List 
For anyone searching for obscure C parts I found a source in Ontario.

South Shore Yachts was apparently the service department for C back in the 
day. Staff report they have many C specific parts in stock and have 
maintained relationships with the original parts manufacturers.

I was able to buy a new pair of C crests for the outside of the cabin.

https://southshoreyachts.com/

Al H.
C 35 Mk3
Vancouver, BC.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray