Re: Stus-List C 36KCB centreboard pendant

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Len,

Good info, very much appreciated. Not sure the value of the build file
though, if there isn't any dimensional data.

I have reached out to Rob at South Shore and so some more info may be
forthcoming.

Thanks for your help.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 12:49 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull #
> 216 (Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there
> are no dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call
> Southshore Yachts, they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a
> plan B. If you need the parts list for the centreboard keel, I have it in
> the old build file. Ours was in fresh water and never replaced.
>
> Len Mitchell
> *Crazy Legs*
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

You're spot-on with your recommendations on the electrical work. Really
appreciate the links to bona-fide vendors and equipment. That Blue-Sea fuse
holder is really nice!

Sadly, the stuff at the top of my current list falls into the category of
impending failure. Ha! Just finished a complete pedestal rebuild and engine
service. I'm keeping an eye on the electrical stuff for now, for signs of
the aforementioned impending doom, until it floats to the top of the list.
Also sad - the PO and I are both electrical engineers. I think there's a
saying about the plumber's pipes leaking or something...

When the time comes for the 12VDC power work it will be much more robust.
Comments appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
'81 C 36' KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 1:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Tim,
>
> You may have already identified these observations.  If so disregard.  If
> not, here are a few things to add to what I'm sure is the ever growing list
> of repairs which all boats and owners have.
>
> - The typical post style battery cables which you have appear to be
> automotive grade.  The insulation that is pulling back around the cast lead
> terminal is allowing the un-tinned copper strands to be exposed and
> corrode.  You could replace them with exactly the same thing and simply add
> adhesive lined heat shrink to the junction.  Better would be to get proper
> marine wire with tinned copper strands.  Crimp on a tinned ring terminal
> and then heat shrink the junction.  A "proper" crimper is exorbitantly
> expensive so if you plan ahead you can get the cables made by an online
> store for a very good priceyou'll probably still have to add the heat
> shrink.  I've used the company in the link below.  My only complaint is
> that they don't provide any means for fractional lengths less than a foot.
> Other than that they have a very high quality product at a great price.
> http://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly
>
> - Having threaded stud terminals is great.  You can tighten them
> appropriately and the lead won't corrode away.  I suggest that you move all
> of the connections to the studs not the posts.
>
> - IIRC to be in accordance with ABYC you'll need a fuse within 7" of the
> battery connection.  You may have it and it is just out of frame.  One
> thing that messes people up is that the starter circuit technically doesn't
> need a fuse.  But there's really not a good reason to not have one.  I
> really like the blue sea block fuses for this.  They make a double fuse bus
> which allows you to have a high amp (100 to 200 amp) circuit - for
> starting, and a lower amp (~50) circuit - for everything else.  I base the
> low amp off of my 60amp charger and use a 75 amp fuse.  If you have an
> inverter you may need to scale it up appropriately.  You can also use these
> blocks to fuse individual busses throughout the boat.
> https://baymarinesupply.com/blue-sea-2151-dual-mrbf-fuse-block.html
>
> - The terminals and their crimps on the shunt connections could use an
> upgrade.  The crimp is really not appropriate.  It appears to have been
> made by a hammer crimper and specifically the dent can break individual
> conductor strands.  A proper crimper will compress the barrel of the
> terminal circumferentially and equally.  I can't justify the cost of a
> proper crimper but if you need a DYI solution that is a better alternative
> check the link below.  It is still a hammer crimper but it creates no dent
> and the anvil is slightly wedge shaped so you get more even and
> circumferential crimp.  You'll still want to use boat wire with tinned
> copper strands and then apply adhesive lined heat shrink.
> http://a.co/bwaM9nL
>
> - You can educate yourself on "proper terminations" here.
> https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
>
> I'll certainly recognize the author's highest level of quality and
> standards.  I also accept a certain amount of responsibility and "risk" by
> not following his prescriptions exactly.  At least I'm knowledgeable of my
> downfalls.  Most notable is my use of the anvil crimper and flared starter
> lugs instead of the heavy walled power lugs.
>
> Maybe some of these observations will give you things to consider while
> modifying your existing system.
>
> All the best,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018, 10:42 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Brad,
>>
>> Here are photos from my shunt installed on the forward bulkhead as you
>> mentioned as well as the general arrangement in the compartment.
>>
>> Question: Does your setup have three batteries and if so what are their
>> sizes and locations? I would like to add a third battery and I'm not sure
>> where to put it.
>>
>> ​
>>  20171001_141328.jpg
>> 

Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Hey Tim,

You may have already identified these observations.  If so disregard.  If
not, here are a few things to add to what I'm sure is the ever growing list
of repairs which all boats and owners have.

- The typical post style battery cables which you have appear to be
automotive grade.  The insulation that is pulling back around the cast lead
terminal is allowing the un-tinned copper strands to be exposed and
corrode.  You could replace them with exactly the same thing and simply add
adhesive lined heat shrink to the junction.  Better would be to get proper
marine wire with tinned copper strands.  Crimp on a tinned ring terminal
and then heat shrink the junction.  A "proper" crimper is exorbitantly
expensive so if you plan ahead you can get the cables made by an online
store for a very good priceyou'll probably still have to add the heat
shrink.  I've used the company in the link below.  My only complaint is
that they don't provide any means for fractional lengths less than a foot.
Other than that they have a very high quality product at a great price.
http://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly

- Having threaded stud terminals is great.  You can tighten them
appropriately and the lead won't corrode away.  I suggest that you move all
of the connections to the studs not the posts.

- IIRC to be in accordance with ABYC you'll need a fuse within 7" of the
battery connection.  You may have it and it is just out of frame.  One
thing that messes people up is that the starter circuit technically doesn't
need a fuse.  But there's really not a good reason to not have one.  I
really like the blue sea block fuses for this.  They make a double fuse bus
which allows you to have a high amp (100 to 200 amp) circuit - for
starting, and a lower amp (~50) circuit - for everything else.  I base the
low amp off of my 60amp charger and use a 75 amp fuse.  If you have an
inverter you may need to scale it up appropriately.  You can also use these
blocks to fuse individual busses throughout the boat.
https://baymarinesupply.com/blue-sea-2151-dual-mrbf-fuse-block.html

- The terminals and their crimps on the shunt connections could use an
upgrade.  The crimp is really not appropriate.  It appears to have been
made by a hammer crimper and specifically the dent can break individual
conductor strands.  A proper crimper will compress the barrel of the
terminal circumferentially and equally.  I can't justify the cost of a
proper crimper but if you need a DYI solution that is a better alternative
check the link below.  It is still a hammer crimper but it creates no dent
and the anvil is slightly wedge shaped so you get more even and
circumferential crimp.  You'll still want to use boat wire with tinned
copper strands and then apply adhesive lined heat shrink.
http://a.co/bwaM9nL

- You can educate yourself on "proper terminations" here.
https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/

I'll certainly recognize the author's highest level of quality and
standards.  I also accept a certain amount of responsibility and "risk" by
not following his prescriptions exactly.  At least I'm knowledgeable of my
downfalls.  Most notable is my use of the anvil crimper and flared starter
lugs instead of the heavy walled power lugs.

Maybe some of these observations will give you things to consider while
modifying your existing system.

All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jun 13, 2018, 10:42 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Brad,
>
> Here are photos from my shunt installed on the forward bulkhead as you
> mentioned as well as the general arrangement in the compartment.
>
> Question: Does your setup have three batteries and if so what are their
> sizes and locations? I would like to add a third battery and I'm not sure
> where to put it.
>
> ​
>  20171001_141328.jpg
> 
> ​​
>  20171001_141144.jpg
> 
> ​​
>  20171001_141139.jpg
> 
> ​​
>  20171001_141613.jpg
> 
> ​
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> '81 C 36' KCB #244 Chamamé
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 4:26 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Slightly off-topic but battery monitor related, after sailing off Croatia
>> last summer I decided to buy one of these
>> 
>> No support in the U.S. but I’m always up for something new.  I replaced my
>> Link 20 with this unit. It has a 24-hour barograph, tank monitor, ambient
>> temperature in addition to monitoring 2 battery banks. It has bluetooth so
>> 

Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Adapter:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Boat-CNG-Tank-Refill-Adapter/183235786238?hash=item2aa9b435fe:g:r0UAAOSwzaJX3UrH=mtr



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 36KCB centreboard pendant

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Tim, I still have the manuals and build file for our 1981 36KCB, hull # 216 
(Incision). I had a look and the pendant part # was 074616 but there are no 
dimensions or drawings other than winch location. Maybe call Southshore Yachts, 
they should know where to find it. Or Mars keels as a plan B. If you need the 
parts list for the centreboard keel, I have it in the old build file. Ours was 
in fresh water and never replaced. 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On


Sent from my iPad___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 I have noted all of the responses with interest, (because I am looking at 
replacing my cable soon), but I haven't seen any discussion of whether it is 
appropriate or prudent to use dyneema vs the original steel cable, any thoughts 
from the "pros" on the list? 

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Tim Rutherford 
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 10:09 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions



Hi Charlie,


Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking apples 
and apples here.


The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather than 
describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has done it 
many times here on C's of various lengths, probably older models. 


He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel once 
to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and didn't mention 
a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let loose and that 800 
pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop I would have a real 
concern for damage to the trunk.


Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions weren't well 
documented.



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

Good idea - hadn't though about doing take-off measurements on the drawing.
I'll round up and add 20% and it should be plenty. I already talked with
the diver and he remembers it being easy.

I appreciate all the help in avoiding a headache (the woes you mentioned).
I'm sure there are others are on the horizon, I'll avoid this one if I can.



--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim,
>
> Yes — Your board setup is very different than the 34+ or 37+ series. A
> competant diver should have no problem rigging a new one for you. And
> YES(!!!), do it before it breaks so you can use the existing cable to snake
> the new one through the system. A break, especially inside the cabin or
> under the floor, will be a bitch to replace.
>
> As for length, since you have the plan image you shared and since you know
> the LOA of the boat, it should be pretty easy with a ruler to extrapolate
> the length of the cabling.
>
> … Glad to see my centerboard woes of a few years ago is the stuff of
> legend . . .
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 13, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for thinking of that Ken.
>
> I remember Edd's post and read it with interest but my setup is completely
> different. My centerboard blade (from memory) is only about 9 inches wide
> and extends about 3 feet down from the trunk. There's a picture of it in
> this cut sheet.
> ​
>  36b3p03 (cropped).jpg
> 
> ​
> I'm starting to think I'll maybe ask a rigger to make a thimble onto a
> long piece of Dyneema that I can then pull in, cut to length, and then make
> a second thimble on topside for connection to the blocks. It would be great
> if I know the length though...
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C 36' Chamame'
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:03 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>
>> Edd Schillay sent this out to the list some time ago.  It is for the C
>> 37/40 but may be similar: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
>> (scroll down some)
>>
>> or pdf here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WU
>> HREVGs/view
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>> On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 at 11:09, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Charlie,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
>>> apples and apples here.
>>>
>>> The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather
>>> than describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has
>>> done it many times here on C's of various lengths, probably older models.
>>>
>>> He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
>>> once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
>>> didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
>>> loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
>>> I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.
>>>
>>> Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions
>>> weren't well documented.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Rutherford
>>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
 failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
 then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
 yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.

 On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
 the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
 water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
 basically impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position
 (where else!), replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to
 getting the board (or what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a
 shallow water slip.

 FWIW

 Charlie Nelson
 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
 Water Phantom

 cenel...@aol.com


 -Original Message-
 From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Tim Rutherford 
 Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
 Subject: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant
 Dimensions

 Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
 replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are 

Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Tim,

Yes — Your board setup is very different than the 34+ or 37+ series. A 
competant diver should have no problem rigging a new one for you. And YES(!!!), 
do it before it breaks so you can use the existing cable to snake the new one 
through the system. A break, especially inside the cabin or under the floor, 
will be a bitch to replace.  

As for length, since you have the plan image you shared and since you know the 
LOA of the boat, it should be pretty easy with a ruler to extrapolate the 
length of the cabling. 

… Glad to see my centerboard woes of a few years ago is the stuff of legend . . 
. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









On Jun 13, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Thanks for thinking of that Ken.

I remember Edd's post and read it with interest but my setup is completely 
different. My centerboard blade (from memory) is only about 9 inches wide and 
extends about 3 feet down from the trunk. There's a picture of it in this cut 
sheet.
​
 36b3p03 (cropped).jpg 
​
I'm starting to think I'll maybe ask a rigger to make a thimble onto a long 
piece of Dyneema that I can then pull in, cut to length, and then make a second 
thimble on topside for connection to the blocks. It would be great if I know 
the length though...

--
Tim Rutherford
C 36' Chamame' 
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:03 AM, Ken Heaton mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Edd Schillay sent this out to the list some time ago.  It is for the C 37/40 
but may be similar: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html 
 (scroll down some)

or pdf here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WUHREVGs/view 


Ken H.

On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 at 11:09, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Charlie,

Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking apples 
and apples here.

The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather than 
describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has done it 
many times here on C's of various lengths, probably older models.

He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel once 
to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and didn't mention 
a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let loose and that 800 
pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop I would have a real 
concern for damage to the trunk.

Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions weren't well 
documented.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire) failed 
after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since then, I 
replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the yard's 
recommendation although I have considered using high tech line. 

On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on the 
hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the water. 
Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is basically 
impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position (where else!), 
replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to getting the board (or 
what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a shallow water slip.

FWIW

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom

cenel...@aol.com 


-Original Message-
From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Tim Rutherford mailto:tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
Subject: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a 
replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to 
replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings or 
data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.

Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous Technora 
replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.

Any help is appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
C 36' Chamame' 
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
813 748 4888 cel/text
___

Thanks everyone 

Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Thanks for thinking of that Ken.

I remember Edd's post and read it with interest but my setup is completely
different. My centerboard blade (from memory) is only about 9 inches wide
and extends about 3 feet down from the trunk. There's a picture of it in
this cut sheet.
​
 36b3p03 (cropped).jpg

​
I'm starting to think I'll maybe ask a rigger to make a thimble onto a long
piece of Dyneema that I can then pull in, cut to length, and then make a
second thimble on topside for connection to the blocks. It would be great
if I know the length though...

--
Tim Rutherford
C 36' Chamame'
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 11:03 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Edd Schillay sent this out to the list some time ago.  It is for the C
> 37/40 but may be similar: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
> (scroll down some)
>
> or pdf here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WUHREVGs/
> view
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 at 11:09, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Charlie,
>>
>> Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
>> apples and apples here.
>>
>> The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather
>> than describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has
>> done it many times here on C's of various lengths, probably older models.
>>
>> He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
>> once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
>> didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
>> loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
>> I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.
>>
>> Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions
>> weren't well documented.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
>>> failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
>>> then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
>>> yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
>>>
>>> On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
>>> the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
>>> water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
>>> basically impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position
>>> (where else!), replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to
>>> getting the board (or what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a
>>> shallow water slip.
>>>
>>> FWIW
>>>
>>> Charlie Nelson
>>> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>>> Water Phantom
>>>
>>> cenel...@aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>>> To: cnc-list 
>>> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
>>> Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
>>> Subject: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant
>>> Dimensions
>>>
>>> Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
>>> replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to
>>> replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings
>>> or data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.
>>>
>>> Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous
>>> Technora replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.
>>>
>>> Any help is appreciated.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Rutherford
>>> C 36' Chamame'
>>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

==
On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
 wrote:  

 Hello
I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove? I had the tank refilled but 
since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I would 
hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to use it?? 
Then I could eat breakfast on the boat. 

Hopeful 
Ray
LakeHouse 
Milwaukee WI. 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.? Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.? If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --? https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 05:43:35 -0400
From: Joe Jonika 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C 33mk1 - Merlin
Message-ID: <93ab1e5a-78d9-97a6-dda7-139640c74...@chartermi.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

My 33 (1976), that I have owned for the last 22yrs, is up for sale, in 
Traverse City MI.? It is well maintained, very clean and very very 
shiny.? She has Quantum sails, new A-Sym spin and various other sails. 
And as you know the 33 has beautiful lines, is a very nice club racer 
and cruiser for a couple or small family.? The A-4 engine has all new 
electrical parts and carb. That engine has never run so well and can be 
idled down without worry of stalling.? There are many details and pics I 
can share, if you are interested.? I am asking $19,900 obo.


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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 10:24:48 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am pretty sure the regulator uses a backwards thread, so watch out for that.
Your tank should have a pressure gauge and it is linear. Propane holds about 
250 PSI from 100% full to about 1% full and then drops rapidly to 0. CNG starts 
around 2000 PSI and when it gets to 1000 it is half used and 500 is 3/4s used 
and so on.
I bought an adapter from FleaBay and fill my CNG tank at a gas station for CNG 
cars. I think it costs about $2 for a fill ?
Please do be careful. CNG is a *little bit* safer than propane because it is 
lighter than air, so a leak will float up to your nose level instead of filling 
from the bilge on up. It is still a flammable gas, so leaks are still 
dangerous, as the crew of Deepwater Horizon found out the hard way. I turn my 
tank off when not in use. I use my propane rail mount grill a lot to save CNG 
and save heat in the cabin, so I usually fill my CNG tank once a year. That is 
mainly coffee and eggs in the morning, hot water for dishes, and the occasional 
loaf of bread or roast in the oven.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
damian.greene--- via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 4:05 AM
To: Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
Cc: damian.gre...@yahoo.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

Ray,

There is not much to this. Others may elaborate, but here's my take:

Your primary concern should be to check for leaks - most likely around the 
regulator. Check along the length of the line first for any obvious damage or 
kinks. Check the flex lines. Maybe you have a separate shutoff valve inside the 
boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older CNG setup. With 
the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the line. Use soapy water 
on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first try to light the stove, 
it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the air from the line. Never 
leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the cylinder when not in use.

CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key difference 
between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid - so a LOT LESS 
fuel. With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and those tanks are heavy!  
They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or fill. Expect to use your 
tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure gauge on your regulator - 
you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.

Regards,

Damian

===

On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello
I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove  I had the tank refilled but 
since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I would 
hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have

Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Edd Schillay sent this out to the list some time ago.  It is for the C
37/40 but may be similar: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
(scroll down some)

or pdf here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WUHREVGs/view

Ken H.

On Wed, 13 Jun 2018 at 11:09, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Charlie,
>
> Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
> apples and apples here.
>
> The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather
> than describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has
> done it many times here on C's of various lengths, probably older models.
>
> He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
> once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
> didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
> loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
> I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.
>
> Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions weren't
> well documented.
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
>> failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
>> then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
>> yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
>>
>> On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
>> the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
>> water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
>> basically impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position
>> (where else!), replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to
>> getting the board (or what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a
>> shallow water slip.
>>
>> FWIW
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>> Water Phantom
>>
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
>> Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant
>> Dimensions
>>
>> Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
>> replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to
>> replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings
>> or data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.
>>
>> Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous
>> Technora replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.
>>
>> Any help is appreciated.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Rutherford
>> C 36' Chamame'
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>> 813 748 4888 cel/text
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Brad,

Here are photos from my shunt installed on the forward bulkhead as you
mentioned as well as the general arrangement in the compartment.

Question: Does your setup have three batteries and if so what are their
sizes and locations? I would like to add a third battery and I'm not sure
where to put it.

​
 20171001_141328.jpg

​​
 20171001_141144.jpg

​​
 20171001_141139.jpg

​​
 20171001_141613.jpg

​

--
Tim Rutherford
'81 C 36' KCB #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 4:26 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Slightly off-topic but battery monitor related, after sailing off Croatia
> last summer I decided to buy one of these
> 
> No support in the U.S. but I’m always up for something new.  I replaced my
> Link 20 with this unit. It has a 24-hour barograph, tank monitor, ambient
> temperature in addition to monitoring 2 battery banks. It has bluetooth so
> I can monitor with it’s app on my iPhone.
>
> Looks trick if nothing else. ;-)
>
> And FWIW, the shunt is placed behind the distribution panel.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Jun 11, 2018, at 2:00 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> On my 34, a couple years ago I rewired my batteries, starter, alternator,
> installed a Victron BMV-702s, blue sea switch and ACR, plus some bars and
> breakers.
>
> I wanted a location that was near to the batteries, engine room, and fuse
> panel.  The batteries were under the quarter birth so I installed the
> shunt, ACR, buses, breakers all on the plywood board that separated the
> battery compartment from other storage under the quarter berth.  I took
> that board home and worked on it there, naming it my "shunt board."  It
> had things mounted on both sides of it and has worked out really well.
>
> No problems since installing it. I got the Bluetooth dongle for the
> Victron and can check the battery stats from the cockpit easily.
> Eventually, I surface mounted the Victron display just under the VHF beside
> the fuse panel above the nav table.
>
> This page is very useful and I utilized its previous version (on pbase)
> for my install:
>
> https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-battery-monitor/
>
> Cheers,
>   Jeremy
>   '78 C 34, #41
>   Vancouver Island, BC
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Brad Crawford 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2018 15:27:27 -0700
> Subject: Stus-List Battery monitor shunt location
> I recently purchased a Victron battery monitor and am wondering where
> others, particularly 36' owners, have mounted their battery monitor shunts,
> if they have one?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Brad Crawford
> "Dora Pearl"
> C 36
> Seattle
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Richard Gonesailing via CnC-List]

nside the boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older 
>> CNG setup. With the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the 
>> line. Use soapy water on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first 
>> try to light the stove, it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the 
>> air from the line. Never leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the 
>> cylinder when not in use.
>> CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key difference 
>> between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid - so a LOT 
>> LESS fuel.?With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and those tanks are 
>> heavy!? They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or fill. Expect to 
>> use your tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure gauge on your 
>> regulator - you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.
>> Regards,
>> Damian
>> ===
>> On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:  
>> 
>>  Hello
>> I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove? I had the tank refilled but 
>> since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I 
>> would hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to 
>> use it?? Then I could eat breakfast on the boat. 
>> 
>> Hopeful 
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse 
>> Milwaukee WI. 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.? Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.? If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --? https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20180613/ec3f3c80/attachment-0001.html>
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 05:43:35 -0400
>> From: Joe Jonika 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List C 33mk1 - Merlin
>> Message-ID: <93ab1e5a-78d9-97a6-dda7-139640c74...@chartermi.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>> 
>> My 33 (1976), that I have owned for the last 22yrs, is up for sale, in 
>> Traverse City MI.? It is well maintained, very clean and very very 
>> shiny.? She has Quantum sails, new A-Sym spin and various other sails. 
>> And as you know the 33 has beautiful lines, is a very nice club racer 
>> and cruiser for a couple or small family.? The A-4 engine has all new 
>> electrical parts and carb. That engine has never run so well and can be 
>> idled down without worry of stalling.? There are many details and pics I 
>> can share, if you are interested.? I am asking $19,900 obo.
>> 
>> 
>> ---
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 10:24:48 +
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions
>> Message-ID:
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I am pretty sure the regulator uses a backwards thread, so watch out for 
>> that.
>> Your tank should have a pressure gauge and it is linear. Propane holds about 
>> 250 PSI from 100% full to about 1% full and then drops rapidly to 0. CNG 
>> starts around 2000 PSI and when it gets to 1000 it is half used and 500 is 
>> 3/4s used and so on.
>> I bought an adapter from FleaBay and fill my CNG tank at a gas station for 
>> CNG cars. I think it costs about $2 for a fill ?
>> Please do be careful. CNG is a *little bit* safer than propane because it is 
>> lighter than air, so a leak will float up to your nose level instead of 
>> filling from the bilge on up. It is still a flammable gas, so leaks are 
>> still dangerous, as the crew of Deepwater Horizon found out the hard way. I 
>> turn my tank off when not in use. I use my propane rail mount grill a lot to 
>> save CNG and save heat in the cabin, so I usually fill my CNG tank once a 
>> year. That is mainly coffee and eggs in the morning, hot water for dishes, 
>> and the occasional loaf of bread or roast in the oven.
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

ailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 Hello
I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove? I had the tank refilled but 
since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I would 
hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to use it?? 
Then I could eat breakfast on the boat.

Hopeful
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.? Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.? If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --? https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 05:43:35 -0400
From: Joe Jonika mailto:jjon...@chartermi.net>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List C 33mk1 - Merlin
Message-ID: 
<93ab1e5a-78d9-97a6-dda7-139640c74...@chartermi.net<mailto:93ab1e5a-78d9-97a6-dda7-139640c74...@chartermi.net>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

My 33 (1976), that I have owned for the last 22yrs, is up for sale, in
Traverse City MI.? It is well maintained, very clean and very very
shiny.? She has Quantum sails, new A-Sym spin and various other sails.
And as you know the 33 has beautiful lines, is a very nice club racer
and cruiser for a couple or small family.? The A-4 engine has all new
electrical parts and carb. That engine has never run so well and can be
idled down without worry of stalling.? There are many details and pics I
can share, if you are interested.? I am asking $19,900 obo.


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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 10:24:48 +
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions
Message-ID:

mailto:d4018448bff6470497c67465e74f0...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I am pretty sure the regulator uses a backwards thread, so watch out for that.
Your tank should have a pressure gauge and it is linear. Propane holds about 
250 PSI from 100% full to about 1% full and then drops rapidly to 0. CNG starts 
around 2000 PSI and when it gets to 1000 it is half used and 500 is 3/4s used 
and so on.
I bought an adapter from FleaBay and fill my CNG tank at a gas station for CNG 
cars. I think it costs about $2 for a fill ?
Please do be careful. CNG is a *little bit* safer than propane because it is 
lighter than air, so a leak will float up to your nose level instead of filling 
from the bilge on up. It is still a flammable gas, so leaks are still 
dangerous, as the crew of Deepwater Horizon found out the hard way. I turn my 
tank off when not in use. I use my propane rail mount grill a lot to save CNG 
and save heat in the cabin, so I usually fill my CNG tank once a year. That is 
mainly coffee and eggs in the morning, hot water for dishes, and the occasional 
loaf of bread or roast in the oven.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of damian.greene--- via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 4:05 AM
To: Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: damian.gre...@yahoo.com<mailto:damian.gre...@yahoo.com>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

Ray,

There is not much to this. Others may elaborate, but here's my take:

Your primary concern should be to check for leaks - most likely around the 
regulator. Check along the length of the line first for any obvious damage or 
kinks. Check the flex lines. Maybe you have a separate shutoff valve inside the 
boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older CNG setup. With 
the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the line. Use soapy water 
on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first try to light the stove, 
it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the air from the line. Never 
leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the cylinder when not in use.

CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key difference 
between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid - so a LOT LESS 
fuel. With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and those tanks are heavy!  
They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or fill. Expect to use your 
tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure gauge on your regulator - 
you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.

Regards,

Damian

===

Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

__
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.? Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.? If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --? https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.
> com/attachments/20180613/ec3f3c80/attachment-0001.html>
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 05:43:35 -0400
> From: Joe Jonika 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C 33mk1 - Merlin
> Message-ID: <93ab1e5a-78d9-97a6-dda7-139640c74...@chartermi.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> My 33 (1976), that I have owned for the last 22yrs, is up for sale, in
> Traverse City MI.? It is well maintained, very clean and very very
> shiny.? She has Quantum sails, new A-Sym spin and various other sails.
> And as you know the 33 has beautiful lines, is a very nice club racer
> and cruiser for a couple or small family.? The A-4 engine has all new
> electrical parts and carb. That engine has never run so well and can be
> idled down without worry of stalling.? There are many details and pics I
> can share, if you are interested.? I am asking $19,900 obo.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2018 10:24:48 +
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am pretty sure the regulator uses a backwards thread, so watch out for
> that.
> Your tank should have a pressure gauge and it is linear. Propane holds
> about 250 PSI from 100% full to about 1% full and then drops rapidly to 0.
> CNG starts around 2000 PSI and when it gets to 1000 it is half used and 500
> is 3/4s used and so on.
> I bought an adapter from FleaBay and fill my CNG tank at a gas station for
> CNG cars. I think it costs about $2 for a fill ?
> Please do be careful. CNG is a *little bit* safer than propane because it
> is lighter than air, so a leak will float up to your nose level instead of
> filling from the bilge on up. It is still a flammable gas, so leaks are
> still dangerous, as the crew of Deepwater Horizon found out the hard way. I
> turn my tank off when not in use. I use my propane rail mount grill a lot
> to save CNG and save heat in the cabin, so I usually fill my CNG tank once
> a year. That is mainly coffee and eggs in the morning, hot water for
> dishes, and the occasional loaf of bread or roast in the oven.
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> damian.greene--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 4:05 AM
> To: Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
> Cc: damian.gre...@yahoo.com
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions
>
> Ray,
>
> There is not much to this. Others may elaborate, but here's my take:
>
> Your primary concern should be to check for leaks - most likely around the
> regulator. Check along the length of the line first for any obvious damage
> or kinks. Check the flex lines. Maybe you have a separate shutoff valve
> inside the boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older
> CNG setup. With the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the
> line. Use soapy water on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first
> try to light the stove, it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the
> air from the line. Never leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the
> cylinder when not in use.
>
> CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key
> difference between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid
> - so a LOT LESS fuel. With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and
> those tanks are heavy!  They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or
> fill. Expect to use your tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure
> gauge on your regulator - you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.
>
> Regards,
>
> Damian
>
> ===
>
> On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
>
> Hello
> I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove  I had the tank refilled but
> since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions

Re: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant Dimensions

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

Thanks for the quick reply and the info although we might not be talking
apples and apples here.

The previous owner said it's *easier* to change before it fails rather than
describing the dire situation you encountered. A diver in our club has done
it many times here on C's of various lengths, probably older models.

He also described having to use the winches to run a line under the keel
once to raise it when it failed, so he could get back in the slip and
didn't mention a concern for damage. Maybe just lucky. I think if it let
loose and that 800 pound steel blade fell through it's full arc to the stop
I would have a real concern for damage to the trunk.

Hopefully someone has some info. It seems the centerboard versions weren't
well documented.

--
Tim Rutherford
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

On Tue, Jun 12, 2018 at 10:34 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1995 36XL with a centerboard so YMMV. My 1st pennant (wire)
> failed after about 15 years and destroyed the board when it let go. Since
> then, I replace it about every 5 years and I have stayed with wire on the
> yard's recommendation although I have considered using high tech line.
>
> On my boat, the pennant pretty much has to be replaced with the boat on
> the hard so a new one is made and sized properly with the boat out of the
> water. Carrying a spare is not useful since if it lets go, replacing it is
> basically impossible in the water. Plus if it lets go in the up position
> (where else!), replacing the pennant will be a minor problem compared to
> getting the board (or what's left of it!) back up so you can get into a
> shallow water slip.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tim Rutherford 
> Sent: Tue, Jun 12, 2018 5:01 pm
> Subject: Stus-List 36' C w/CB - Looking for Centerboard Pendant
> Dimensions
>
> Looking for documentation of the pendant dimensions so that I have a
> replacement fabricated. No issues yet, but I understand they are easier to
> replace *before* they fail. I have the manuals but there are no drawings
> or data tables with mention of the details on the centerboard model.
>
> Previous owner supplied contact info for a shop that made the previous
> Technora replacement but he couldn't locate any records of the transaction.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> --
> Tim Rutherford
> C 36' Chamame'
> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
> 813 748 4888 cel/text
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Wheel pilot for a c 30

[Jeff Bechtel via CnC-List]

Can I please get the Lister price for a evolution package for autopilot for
a c 30?

Thanks!
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Re: Stus-List C 25 MK II Manual

[Tod Baudais via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill. I’ll figure out how to get it from him.

Tod.

> On Jun 13, 2018, at 7:37 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I sent a scan of the manual to Stu just now for addition to the resources on 
> CNCPhotoalbum.  It's a large PDF.
> 
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> C
> 
> On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 10:00 PM, Tod Baudais  > wrote:
> Thanks Bill, that would be amazing. 
> 
> Tod
> 
> On Jun 10, 2018, at 6:10 PM, Bill Dakin  > wrote:
> 
>> I have one to scan and upload for you and the cncphoto site.  
>> 
>> Bill Dakin
>> ‘81 25-2
>> 
>> On Jun 10, 2018, at 3:36 PM, Tod Baudais via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>>> I just bought my first C! It’s a 1982 C 25 Mk II and I’m loving it so 
>>> far.  There’s still a few mysteries and I was wondering if anyone had a 
>>> manual for this boat. cncphotoalbum.com  doesn’t 
>>> seem to have the MK II listed. Specifically right now I’m looking for how 
>>> to rig the boom and reefing lines but I’m sure other things will pop up too.
>>> 
>>> Thanks and I’m glad to be part of the club!
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Bill Dakin
> Tapestryaussies.org
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List C 25 MK II Manual

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I sent a scan of the manual to Stu just now for addition to the resources
on CNCPhotoalbum.  It's a large PDF.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
C

On Mon, Jun 11, 2018 at 10:00 PM, Tod Baudais  wrote:

> Thanks Bill, that would be amazing.
>
> Tod
>
> On Jun 10, 2018, at 6:10 PM, Bill Dakin  wrote:
>
> I have one to scan and upload for you and the cncphoto site.
>
> Bill Dakin
> ‘81 25-2
>
> On Jun 10, 2018, at 3:36 PM, Tod Baudais via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I just bought my first C! It’s a 1982 C 25 Mk II and I’m loving it so
> far.  There’s still a few mysteries and I was wondering if anyone had a
> manual for this boat. cncphotoalbum.com doesn’t seem to have the MK II
> listed. Specifically right now I’m looking for how to rig the boom and
> reefing lines but I’m sure other things will pop up too.
>
> Thanks and I’m glad to be part of the club!
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>


-- 

Bill Dakin
Tapestryaussies.org
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Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Richard, in what area do you sail? and how do get your tanks refilled? Thanks

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Richard Gonesailing via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Richard Gonesailing 
Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions


Just to say we have CNG on board our 29 for the last 20 years and find that 
with 2 tanks and the boat is used for 4 months every weekend and that’s using 
the oven and the BBQ we usually go through a tank and a half.  The tanks are 
the size of dive tanks and cost 40 bucks to fill both never mind the safety of 
the gas rising versus settling make sure you install a xintex control unit with 
a solenoid shut off valve.  Also the regulator for the tanks will have a vent 
on it make sure you connect a hose on it to vent fitting on the side of the 
hull 


Just my 2 cents



   \ | /
 (@ @) 
--o00--(_)--00o--
416-805-3020 cell 
..._/)..._/)..._/)..._/)
I'd rather be sailing
Sent from Richard's iPhone



On Jun 13, 2018, at 4:04 AM, damian.greene--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:






I





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Stus-List Best way to clean Ram-mic connector pins?

[robert via CnC-List]

Mike,

Clean with white vinegar and rinse with distilled water.or go to any 
electronics shop, like the Source, a get a spray can of 'contact 
cleaner'...I don't know what that stuff is but I do know it works.


Any plastic and rubber housing can be treated with 'dielectirc grease' 
but not the actual connectors themselves.might help to reduce 
further oxidization.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2018-06-12 11:58 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Persistence has a Standard Horizon GX2150 VHF with a cockpit mounted 
Ram mic.   The connection is  becoming intermittent and I have noticed 
oxidization in the boat side socket.


What is the best way to clean the oxidization from these pins?  I 
think the pins are copper and the oxidization is green and likely the 
source of my poor connection.


I wish to clean but not damage the plastic housing or short the 
connectors when the ram mic is plugged in.


Am assuming the brain trust has dealt with this many times before

Thanks

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS



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Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Richard Gonesailing via CnC-List]

Just to say we have CNG on board our 29 for the last 20 years and find that 
with 2 tanks and the boat is used for 4 months every weekend and that’s using 
the oven and the BBQ we usually go through a tank and a half.  The tanks are 
the size of dive tanks and cost 40 bucks to fill both never mind the safety of 
the gas rising versus settling make sure you install a xintex control unit with 
a solenoid shut off valve.  Also the regulator for the tanks will have a vent 
on it make sure you connect a hose on it to vent fitting on the side of the 
hull 

Just my 2 cents

>\ | /
>  (@ @) 
> --o00--(_)--00o--
> 416-805-3020 cell 
> ..._/)..._/)..._/)..._/)
> I'd rather be sailing
> Sent from Richard's iPhone


> On Jun 13, 2018, at 4:04 AM, damian.greene--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ray,
> 
> There is not much to this. Others may elaborate, but here's my take:
> 
> Your primary concern should be to check for leaks - most likely around the 
> regulator. Check along the length of the line first for any obvious damage or 
> kinks. Check the flex lines. Maybe you have a separate shutoff valve inside 
> the boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older CNG 
> setup. With the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the line. 
> Use soapy water on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first try to 
> light the stove, it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the air from 
> the line. Never leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the cylinder when 
> not in use.
> 
> CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key difference 
> between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid - so a LOT 
> LESS fuel. With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and those tanks are 
> heavy!  They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or fill. Expect to 
> use your tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure gauge on your 
> regulator - you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Damian
> 
> ===
> 
> On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello
> I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove  I had the tank refilled but 
> since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I 
> would hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to 
> use it?  Then I could eat breakfast on the boat. 
> 
> Hopeful 
> Ray
> LakeHouse 
> Milwaukee WI. 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am pretty sure the regulator uses a backwards thread, so watch out for that.
Your tank should have a pressure gauge and it is linear. Propane holds about 
250 PSI from 100% full to about 1% full and then drops rapidly to 0. CNG starts 
around 2000 PSI and when it gets to 1000 it is half used and 500 is 3/4s used 
and so on.
I bought an adapter from FleaBay and fill my CNG tank at a gas station for CNG 
cars. I think it costs about $2 for a fill ☺
Please do be careful. CNG is a *little bit* safer than propane because it is 
lighter than air, so a leak will float up to your nose level instead of filling 
from the bilge on up. It is still a flammable gas, so leaks are still 
dangerous, as the crew of Deepwater Horizon found out the hard way. I turn my 
tank off when not in use. I use my propane rail mount grill a lot to save CNG 
and save heat in the cabin, so I usually fill my CNG tank once a year. That is 
mainly coffee and eggs in the morning, hot water for dishes, and the occasional 
loaf of bread or roast in the oven.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
damian.greene--- via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 4:05 AM
To: Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
Cc: damian.gre...@yahoo.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

Ray,

There is not much to this. Others may elaborate, but here's my take:

Your primary concern should be to check for leaks - most likely around the 
regulator. Check along the length of the line first for any obvious damage or 
kinks. Check the flex lines. Maybe you have a separate shutoff valve inside the 
boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older CNG setup. With 
the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the line. Use soapy water 
on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first try to light the stove, 
it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the air from the line. Never 
leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the cylinder when not in use.

CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key difference 
between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid - so a LOT LESS 
fuel. With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and those tanks are heavy!  
They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or fill. Expect to use your 
tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure gauge on your regulator - 
you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.

Regards,

Damian

===

On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hello
I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove  I had the tank refilled but 
since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I would 
hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to use it?  
Then I could eat breakfast on the boat.

Hopeful
Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Stus-List C 33mk1 - Merlin

[Joe Jonika via CnC-List]

My 33 (1976), that I have owned for the last 22yrs, is up for sale, in 
Traverse City MI.  It is well maintained, very clean and very very 
shiny.  She has Quantum sails, new A-Sym spin and various other sails. 
And as you know the 33 has beautiful lines, is a very nice club racer 
and cruiser for a couple or small family.  The A-4 engine has all new 
electrical parts and carb. That engine has never run so well and can be 
idled down without worry of stalling.  There are many details and pics I 
can share, if you are interested.  I am asking $19,900 obo.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


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Re: Stus-List CNG Gas Stove Instructions

[damian.greene--- via CnC-List]

 Ray,
There is not much to this. Others may elaborate, but here's my take:
Your primary concern should be to check for leaks - most likely around the 
regulator. Check along the length of the line first for any obvious damage or 
kinks. Check the flex lines. Maybe you have a separate shutoff valve inside the 
boat, or a solenoid-actuated shutoff - likely not with an older CNG setup. With 
the stove off, open the tank-top valve to pressurise the line. Use soapy water 
on the fittings and look for bubbles. When you first try to light the stove, 
it'll take a while as you have to first bleed the air from the line. Never 
leave the stove unattended, and shut off at the cylinder when not in use.
CNG is safer than propane, but with some major downsides. The key difference 
between CNG and LPG is that you have compressed gas, not liquid - so a LOT LESS 
fuel. With CNG you have a bottle like a scuba tank, and those tanks are heavy!  
They are also a pain to find a place to swap out or fill. Expect to use your 
tank up pretty quickly. You may have a pressure gauge on your regulator - 
you'll see it drop pretty soon with use.
Regards,
Damian
===
On Tuesday, June 12, 2018, 11:47:42 PM GMT+1, Ray Macklin via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello
I have a 1985 C 33 that has a CNG gas stove  I had the tank refilled but 
since I bought the boat I was to afraid to try it without instructions. I would 
hate to Go kaboom. Does anyone have instructions or a video of how to use it?  
Then I could eat breakfast on the boat. 

Hopeful 
Ray
LakeHouse 
Milwaukee WI. 
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