Re: Stus-List CnC-List, C&C 25 II Mast step concerns

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

We have the same boat, same year.  The structural board replaces the rotted
core and extends beyond the rotted core to good core with and end-to-end
splice (equal bevels). I use west systems epoxy.  Contour above with an
epoxy layups of fiberglass to get the shape of the deck that existed
before.  As mentioned earlier, save the fiberglass laminate cut away
section for ease of refinishing.

The stainless steel tabs (an angle bracket), hidden above the headliner,
provide a direct connection from the Coosa board to the bulkhead.  That way
the board doesn't rely on the teak cabin arch to support the mast step, but
instead extends a little way over the bulkhead.  The length of the angle
brackets will be trial and error because I don't know how far the bulkhead
extends above the headliner piece.

And something else the new board will do is allow you to use the mast step
bracket screws (4) to bite into the new board with assurance.  No crushing
of the core from tightening of the fasteners.


All of this work would replicate a factory look meaning no repairs
apparent if your saw doesn't go too far!

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2




On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 5:45 AM, alexander rankin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe the root of my problem is what is being discussed here. I
> haven’t tracked the source of my water leak but the water in bilge is
> brownish and there are brown dried watermark trails on the fiberglass
> behind the settee cushions. The mast step sounds like the likely culprit.
>
> I bought the boat last year. Being a 1981 I expected  there would be some
> problems. The PO let the water leak damage the main bulkhead. The rot has
> almost reached the chain plates so I was trying to come up with a better
> design and had been thinking of using Coosa for either the bulkhead or at
> least the portion under the mast step (the entire bulkhead needs replacing)
>
> Sounds like I can now add a repair to the mast step to my list!
>
> Bill, you seem to have thoughts similar to mine on the support under the
> mast step. Could you elaborate a bit. I’m not sure exactly how you were
> thinking of using the stainless in the repair?
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I just bought a Water Witch as well, but found much better pricing at Defender 
compared to the Water Witch site.  I paid a little more and got a 203 because I 
found more favorable reviews about that model and I liked having the 2 sensors 
and greater current handling capability.  It should arrive tomorrow and 
planning to install it over the weekend.  I have had 2 float switches die in 
the past year, so I am determined to find something more reliable.   My pump is 
still in the bilge, so my plan was to zip tie it to the plastic housing of the 
pump itself.  That should remove any grounding issues as Mike mentions below.
 
Regards,
 
Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for 
a small bilge pump
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 6/21/18 10:50 am
To: "Tortuga" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 

  Hi Derek
  
 I believe we have the Model 101 series switch mated to a PAR 36680-2000 
diaphragm pump.The switch we have can be seen at this link 
https://waterwitchinc.com/bilge-switches/
  
 I cannot remember where I purchased it but I see that Water Witch sells 
on-line.
  
 One of the great things about this switch compared to a float switch is the 
ease of mounting.  I zip tied it to a keel bolt and was done in less than 5 
minutes.  Now that I think about it am wondering if that may eventually cause 
problems with wiring and metal touching the keel bolt though …
  
 The diaphragm pump is located in the galley under the sink and allows the 
pickup to be less than 1cm from the bottom of bilge.  With the water witch 
switch located low in bilge also and the fact that the switch runs for a few 
seconds after water level below its contact area the bilge is pretty dry.
  
 The main downside of the diaphragm pump is the flow rate which is much less 
than other types of bilge pumps.
  
 I think all of this was discussed a few years ago on this list.  That is where 
I found out about this switch.
  
 Mike
 Persistence
 Halifax, NS
  
 From: Tortuga [mailto:tortugas...@gmail.com] 
 Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 2:35 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Hoyt, Mike
 Subject: Re: recommendations for a small bilge pump
 
  Hi Mike
  Can you elaborate on which Witch you have? I haven't heard of them before but 
they sound super. The web site shows Stright MacKay as a dealer, but I can't 
find one in the new catalog.
 

 
Also will you name your pump? Thanks
 

 
Derek Kennedy
 
 C&C30mk1 #553 "Tortuga"
 
Ballantyne's Cove, NS
 

 


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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Derek

I believe we have the Model 101 series switch mated to a PAR 36680-2000 
diaphragm pump.The switch we have can be seen at this link 
https://waterwitchinc.com/bilge-switches/

I cannot remember where I purchased it but I see that Water Witch sells on-line.

One of the great things about this switch compared to a float switch is the 
ease of mounting.  I zip tied it to a keel bolt and was done in less than 5 
minutes.  Now that I think about it am wondering if that may eventually cause 
problems with wiring and metal touching the keel bolt though …

The diaphragm pump is located in the galley under the sink and allows the 
pickup to be less than 1cm from the bottom of bilge.  With the water witch 
switch located low in bilge also and the fact that the switch runs for a few 
seconds after water level below its contact area the bilge is pretty dry.

The main downside of the diaphragm pump is the flow rate which is much less 
than other types of bilge pumps.

I think all of this was discussed a few years ago on this list.  That is where 
I found out about this switch.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Tortuga [mailto:tortugas...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2018 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: recommendations for a small bilge pump

Hi Mike
Can you elaborate on which Witch you have? I haven't heard of them before but 
they sound super. The web site shows Stright MacKay as a dealer, but I can't 
find one in the new catalog.

Also will you name your pump? Thanks

Derek Kennedy
 C&C30mk1 #553 "Tortuga"
Ballantyne's Cove, NS

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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Tortuga via CnC-List]

Hi Mike
Can you elaborate on which Witch you have? I haven't heard of them before
but they sound super. The web site shows Stright MacKay as a dealer, but I
can't find one in the new catalog.

Also will you name your pump? Thanks

Derek Kennedy
 C&C30mk1 #553 "Tortuga"
Ballantyne's Cove, NS
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Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

I have this Johnson pump (
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/johnson-pump--cartridge-bilge-pumps--P011_330_001_541?recordNum=17)
in mine in conjunction with a Water Wich. The pump is the small  / cheap
one as my sump space is extremely limited. It's been in there 4 years / so
far it's been flawless.  The Wich is truly impervious to bilge crap.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

A water Witch switch does not need as high a water level to run your pump as a 
traditional float switch.  Is also not mechanical so less prone to failure.  We 
have this switch mated to a diaphragm pump and this leaves very little water in 
the bilge as the diaphragm pump pickup is very low.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 11:04 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

There is certainly nothing wrong with having a centrifugal as a back up too.  
You can set the level switch higher in the bilge so that it only runs when the 
capacity of the gusher is exceeded.

For what it is worth I was in a pinch and ran to Walmart LATE one night after 
the local chandleries were closed.  I bought whatever they had (IIRC it was 
branded as Johnson with a 3 year warranty, 1200 gpm).  It has lasted more than 
3 years and considerably longer than the Rule pump which it replaced.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018, 9:00 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have to agree with Danny.  I mounted a Whale Gusher and it does a much better 
job of sucking the bilge dry than any of the centrifugal pumps that start 
picking up air earlier and then cannot pull any more water out.  Those always 
seem to allow a lot of backflow, and a backflow preventer valve only adds 
restrictions, thus slowing the flow.

Though the Whale Gulper is not rated nearly as high from a gallons per hour 
basis, judging from the time it takes to empty a nearly full bilge I get the 
impression that its real life performance is nearly as good as the small 
centrifugals.

Just my $.02 worth...

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Danny Haughey mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2018 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

Oh And on the Viking, I used 2 Whale gusher pumps.  I mounted them High and dry 
in a locker and was able to suck the water out with hose led into the bilge.  
If you can make the pump you high point and go gravity from there, you might 
actually be able to get the water level down very low with little backflow.   I 
have to say, it is nice getting the pumps and the wiring out of the bilge.  I 
plan on doing this same setup someday on the tartan.

On 6/20/2018 4:26 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:
The automatic bilge pump in Cat’s Paw is fairly old (2011) and although it 
still works fine, it requires a separate float switch (also old) which is 
located in a shallower part of the bilge so leaves about 4 inches of water at 
the pump when it turns off.  I am looking for a replacement that has the water 
level switch in the pump.  There are lots of these for sale, but what is the 
list’s recommendation?  The old pump is a Shurflo (sp?) 355-100-00, rated at 
1000 gals/hr, - the label says it draws 7.35 amps (but I 
haven’t measured it).  Is Shurflo even made any more? I see Rule pumps and lots 
of brands I have never heard of on line. The automatic pumps I found online 
leave about 2 inches of water - is that the best we can do? And what pumps last 
well?  Advice welcome.
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw, C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, C&C 25 II Mast step concerns

[alexander rankin via CnC-List]

I believe the root of my problem is what is being discussed here. I haven’t 
tracked the source of my water leak but the water in bilge is brownish and 
there are brown dried watermark trails on the fiberglass behind the settee 
cushions. The mast step sounds like the likely culprit.

I bought the boat last year. Being a 1981 I expected  there would be some 
problems. The PO let the water leak damage the main bulkhead. The rot has 
almost reached the chain plates so I was trying to come up with a better design 
and had been thinking of using Coosa for either the bulkhead or at least the 
portion under the mast step (the entire bulkhead needs replacing)

Sounds like I can now add a repair to the mast step to my list!

Bill, you seem to have thoughts similar to mine on the support under the mast 
step. Could you elaborate a bit. I’m not sure exactly how you were thinking of 
using the stainless in the repair?

Any other advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

Sandy Rankin
Sobeya
1981 25 Mark II

Sent from my iPhone

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>   1. Re:  1987 33 MKII (John McKay)
>   2. Re:  1987 33 MKII (cnormand83)
>   3. Re:  C&C 25 II - mast step concerns (Dennis C.)
>   4. Re:  C&C 25 II - mast step concerns (Bill Dakin)
>   5. Re:  C&C 25 II - mast step concerns (Nathan Post)
> 
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