Re: Stus-List 27 mk5 tuning

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Hi Mark. 
I sail with lots of rake, at least 12 inches. I really see the difference when 
returning to upwind and I’ve forgot to haul in the back stay tensioner.  I have 
found in addition to your comments, crew positions are extremely important in 
both heavy and light air but overall I sill have trouble pointing as well as 
the others. 
Mostly I sail a 155 3DL on a tuff luff and have a newish Dacron main.  I’ve 
never experimented with pre bend since it seems a little scary to me. The 
speedpac warns that the mast will go into compressive bend early so be careful! 
  Yikes.  
I’m not sailing the boat anywhere close to it’s rating but have seen the 
difference dumping about 1500 lbs of gear makes.  

Brent Driedger.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2018, at 7:42 PM, markbeggs17  wrote:
> 
> Hi Brent,
> I have looked at the speed pac before.   It's pretty good.
> 
> I'm set up with about 12" of take this year, and I'm pointing pretty good.
> 
> I have a roller furling headsail, but race with a 155% tacked on the deck and 
> run up the furler.   It's ok, I think a tuff luff would be better, but I'm 
> not giving up the furler.   It's not worth it to me.
> 
> I have found that a clean bottom is a big key.  Its suprising how much a bit 
> of sludge slows you down.
> 
> Have you ever tried really emptying everything off the boat to loose weight?  
>  It's such a PITA to store everything, but if it really helps it's one free 
> step you can take.
> 
> How much take do you sail with and are you able to get much prebend in the 
> mast.   I find it's tough to get it to start bending.maybe I'm not 
> putting on enough tension.
> My loose gauge is old and I'm not sure that it registers right..
> 
> Thanks
> Mark


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

All good points.

quote "coming in fast on STBD..."

Many times I miss Wally too. VBGs were common in the ol' days.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 06:58 PM 8/20/2018, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D438D0.F8AA4B50"
Content-Language: en-us

The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is 
rolled out implies that he was sailing, thus he would have had right of way.


If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat 
was on his starboard bow, and would have had right of way.


In either case Rule 2 says you need to do 
everything possible, including violating the 
rules, to avoid a collision. So both skippers were at fault.


And if the dufus on the power boat was drinking, 
he can pretty much kiss his merchant mariner 
credentials goodbye…. And good riddance.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash


Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.

Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor 
drunk powerboat coming in fast on STBD didn't have a chance...



Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:

Holy crap!  Glad everyone’s ¢s ok.

Cheers,
Randy



https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/ 



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 
your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Looks like an Otto Pilot should be responsible!

> On Aug 20, 2018, at 6:58 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is rolled out implies that he was 
> sailing, thus he would have had right of way.
>  
> If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat was on his starboard bow, and 
> would have had right of way.
>  
> In either case Rule 2 says you need to do everything possible, including 
> violating the rules, to avoid a collision. So both skippers were at fault.
>  
> And if the dufus on the power boat was drinking, he can pretty much kiss his 
> merchant mariner credentials goodbye…. And good riddance.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:05 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash
>  
> 
> Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.
> 
> Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor drunk powerboat coming in 
> fast on STBD didn't have a chance... 
> 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> ex - Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:
> 
>> Holy crap!  Glad everyone’s ok.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley 
>>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you have a Boomkicker, get rid of the topping lift completely. One fewer 
thing to remember when you set sail.

Before you remove it completely, maybe try moving it to the mast and not using 
it for a while to figure out if that works for you. If you remove it (fewer 
lines to worry about, less weight aloft), I would suggest running a messenger 
line in the mast, so that you could reinstall it, if you decide you want it 
back.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Colin Flock via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 21:36
To: CnClist 
Cc: Colin Flock 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

Thank you for all of the quick replies.

I assumed there was too much stress as the cheek block is pulling away from the 
boom.  This was from the previous owner.

I was considering removing it all together since I have a boom kicker but since 
it was rigged with both when I got it, I left it on

Maybe a simpler setup like yours Dennis would serve the purpose when I am 
moored.

I totally missed the twist in the purchase and the strain you can see through 
the eye strap.not sure why it is there.  The boat was rigged when I got her 
so slowly working through things.

Would be great if you could send pictures of your setup Tom.

Thanks again all

Colin

On Aug 20, 2018, at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Colin,

First, as a suggestion, it is not the best practice to sail with a wire topping 
lift.  The wire can abrade the stitches in your main sail necessitating repair.

I use an entirely different configuration on my 35-1 although topping lifts are 
fairly generic for older boats.  See this pic:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18pfxqfS8i9ypk1RkMVnbcnruCOZtOjyr

Note the springhook that attaches to the shackle on the end of the boom.  I 
detach the topping lift and carry it forward to the mast when I use the main 
sail.  In the photo, the block you see is a small block with a V-cleat.  The 
upper block, which is not shown, I believe is the same as the upper block on 
your lift.

This small purchase is adjustable and, in my opinion, easily removed or 
re-attached.

One caveat.  Touche' has a rigid boom vang for lifting the boom if needed while 
sailing.  If you have a rope vang and like to use the topping lift to elevate 
the boom while the main is hoisted, Touche's rig is probably not the best for 
you.  However, you may consider replacing the wire with line.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 7:42 PM Colin A. Flock via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C 29-2? 
Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek block is 
seeing too much strain with this setup.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

For whatever it is worth, this is the reason why I choose Opti Lube.  YMMV

https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/64-maintenance-fluids/177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html#/topics/177728

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Aug 20, 2018, 10:29 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I retired from doing technical training in the forklift industry (and
> being a certified Cummins and Yanmar tech), Yanmar, Cummins, Perkins, and
> Mitsubishi were all recommending the Stanadyne Lubricity additive for
> engines built prior to the Tier III(? Or maybe IV) diesels (about 2008-2010
> manufacture). Beginning about then the engines were designed to operate on
> ultra-low sulphur (ULS) fuel having 15 PPM of sulphur.
>
>
>
> From the late 80s-early 90s, diesel was low sulphur at 500PPM. Before the
> late 80s, diesel fuel had up to 5000 PPM of sulphur. The sulphur acted as a
> lubricant for valve guides, valve seals, and the tight tolerances in the
> fuel injection system.
>
>
>
> ULS fuel is supposed to have other stuff in it to make up for the lack of
> sulphur. But all the manufacturers we used recommended the Stanadyne
> product. That’s what I use in my 2010 engine.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Ronald
> B. Frerker via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 20, 2018 6:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Ronald B. Frerker 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Diesel additive one last time
>
>
>
> From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the
> additives of majority choice.
>
> One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks using, the Lubricity or
> Performance formula?  And does one formula cover both performance and
> lubricity?
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The 72’ schooner I used to captain was listed on POP Yachts for  year and a 
half with nary an inquiry. It finally sold due to a listing in Boats and 
Harbors magazine. A local rep associated with Pop Yachts was at the Oriental 
Boat Show last spring. On his list was a C 38 LF at a decent price, but he 
(and they) were never able to provide any information on the boat in response 
to an inquiry from a friend to whom I recommended the boat.

 

So my two exposures to POP Yachts were pretty negative.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 5:04 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Stus-List Pop yachts

 

Hey everyone

As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a message 
from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my vessel and tack 
their fee on top of the sale price.

 

Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable? Anything I 
should know about them good or bad? 

 

Thanks! 

Kevin

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

When I retired from doing technical training in the forklift industry (and 
being a certified Cummins and Yanmar tech), Yanmar, Cummins, Perkins, and 
Mitsubishi were all recommending the Stanadyne Lubricity additive for engines 
built prior to the Tier III(? Or maybe IV) diesels (about 2008-2010 
manufacture). Beginning about then the engines were designed to operate on 
ultra-low sulphur (ULS) fuel having 15 PPM of sulphur. 

 

>From the late 80s-early 90s, diesel was low sulphur at 500PPM. Before the late 
>80s, diesel fuel had up to 5000 PPM of sulphur. The sulphur acted as a 
>lubricant for valve guides, valve seals, and the tight tolerances in the fuel 
>injection system.

 

ULS fuel is supposed to have other stuff in it to make up for the lack of 
sulphur. But all the manufacturers we used recommended the Stanadyne product. 
That’s what I use in my 2010 engine.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B. 
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 6:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

 

>From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the 
>additives of majority choice.

One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks using, the Lubricity or 
Performance formula?  And does one formula cover both performance and lubricity?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Just to throw another variable in the mix, I don't use a biocide.  Maybe
I've just gotten lucky but I've never had a problem and simply keep the
tank "fresh" by keeping it low and constantly topping it up little by
little, 5 gallon can at a time through a filter funnel.  Basically my
mantra is, keep the water out and the biologics won't have a chance.

Maine Sailor did an experiment regarding the percentage of fill and the
accumulation of condensation in his tanks.  He found that level didn't make
a difference.  With that knowledge in hand I feel comfortable keeping the
bare minimum of fuel in the tanks as much as possible.

Since ULSD is the only thing available, I do believe in a lubricity
additive and have advocated in the past for a product called Opti Lube
XPD.  Awesome stuff!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Aug 20, 2018, 6:36 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the
> additives of majority choice.
> One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks using, the Lubricity or
> Performance formula?  And does one formula cover both performance and
> lubricity?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The 29-2 that my friend had was set up with a single block with becket and cam 
cleat on the bottom, and a single block on the end of the topping lift wire, 
and the line used was either ¼” or 5/16” dacron. 

 

After all, the topping lift is only there to support the weight of the boom and 
main when the main is down. That’s what? 75 or 100 pounds?  You release the 
topping lift when you raise the main and leave it slack so the vang and/or 
mainsheet can control sail shape.

 

Isn’t that red line your first reef?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Colin Flock 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 9:36 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Colin Flock 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

 

Thank you for all of the quick replies.  

 

I assumed there was too much stress as the cheek block is pulling away from the 
boom.  This was from the previous owner.   

 

I was considering removing it all together since I have a boom kicker but since 
it was rigged with both when I got it, I left it on

 

Maybe a simpler setup like yours Dennis would serve the purpose when I am 
moored.  

 

I totally missed the twist in the purchase and the strain you can see through 
the eye strap.not sure why it is there.  The boat was rigged when I got her 
so slowly working through things. 

 

Would be great if you could send pictures of your setup Tom.  

 

Thanks again all

 

Colin 


On Aug 20, 2018, at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Colin,

 

First, as a suggestion, it is not the best practice to sail with a wire topping 
lift.  The wire can abrade the stitches in your main sail necessitating repair.

 

I use an entirely different configuration on my 35-1 although topping lifts are 
fairly generic for older boats.  See this pic:

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18pfxqfS8i9ypk1RkMVnbcnruCOZtOjyr

 

Note the springhook that attaches to the shackle on the end of the boom.  I 
detach the topping lift and carry it forward to the mast when I use the main 
sail.  In the photo, the block you see is a small block with a V-cleat.  The 
upper block, which is not shown, I believe is the same as the upper block on 
your lift.  

 

This small purchase is adjustable and, in my opinion, easily removed or 
re-attached.  

 

One caveat.  Touche' has a rigid boom vang for lifting the boom if needed while 
sailing.  If you have a rope vang and like to use the topping lift to elevate 
the boom while the main is hoisted, Touche's rig is probably not the best for 
you.  However, you may consider replacing the wire with line.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 7:42 PM Colin A. Flock via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C 29-2? 
Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek block is 
seeing too much strain with this setup.  

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is rolled out implies that he was 
sailing, thus he would have had right of way.

 

If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat was on his starboard bow, and 
would have had right of way.

 

In either case Rule 2 says you need to do everything possible, including 
violating the rules, to avoid a collision. So both skippers were at fault.

 

And if the dufus on the power boat was drinking, he can pretty much kiss his 
merchant mariner credentials goodbye…. And good riddance.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2018 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Chesapeake Bay boat crash

 


Easy to see the sailboat is at fault eh.

Poor visibility and all white sailboat, the poor drunk powerboat coming in fast 
on STBD didn't have a chance... 


Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1

At 07:59 AM 8/18/2018, you wrote:



Holy crap!  Glad everyone’s ok.

Cheers,
Randy





https://www.delmarvanow.com/story/news/local/maryland/2018/08/17/chesapeake-bay-charter-sailboat-crash/1022589002/
 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[Colin Flock via CnC-List]

Thank you for all of the quick replies.  

I assumed there was too much stress as the cheek block is pulling away from the 
boom.  This was from the previous owner.   

I was considering removing it all together since I have a boom kicker but since 
it was rigged with both when I got it, I left it on

Maybe a simpler setup like yours Dennis would serve the purpose when I am 
moored.  

I totally missed the twist in the purchase and the strain you can see through 
the eye strap.not sure why it is there.  The boat was rigged when I got her 
so slowly working through things. 

Would be great if you could send pictures of your setup Tom.  

Thanks again all

Colin 

> On Aug 20, 2018, at 10:02 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Colin,
> 
> First, as a suggestion, it is not the best practice to sail with a wire 
> topping lift.  The wire can abrade the stitches in your main sail 
> necessitating repair.
> 
> I use an entirely different configuration on my 35-1 although topping lifts 
> are fairly generic for older boats.  See this pic:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=18pfxqfS8i9ypk1RkMVnbcnruCOZtOjyr
> 
> Note the springhook that attaches to the shackle on the end of the boom.  I 
> detach the topping lift and carry it forward to the mast when I use the main 
> sail.  In the photo, the block you see is a small block with a V-cleat.  The 
> upper block, which is not shown, I believe is the same as the upper block on 
> your lift.  
> 
> This small purchase is adjustable and, in my opinion, easily removed or 
> re-attached.  
> 
> One caveat.  Touche' has a rigid boom vang for lifting the boom if needed 
> while sailing.  If you have a rope vang and like to use the topping lift to 
> elevate the boom while the main is hoisted, Touche's rig is probably not the 
> best for you.  However, you may consider replacing the wire with line.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 7:42 PM Colin A. Flock via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C 29-2? 
>> Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek block 
>> is seeing too much strain with this setup.  
>> 
>> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Run away! They are not exactly scam artists, but they are far from 
professional. No one in their right mind would buy a boat through them, which 
means lots of hassle for you, the seller.
Andy 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Aug 20, 2018, at 17:16, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ever heard of Pop Yachts?
>  
> 
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
> Paxton via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 5:04 PM
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List
> Cc: Kevin Paxton
> Subject: Stus-List Pop yachts
>  
> Hey everyone
> As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a message 
> from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my vessel and 
> tack their fee on top of the sale price.
>  
> Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable? Anything 
> I should know about them good or bad? 
>  
> Thanks! 
> Kevin
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List removing soft anti fouling

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

would like to remove it myself from a 29-2. there are probably 30 years of 
paint on it. what is the best method?___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

I was contacted by Pop Yachts shortly after listing my boat on another web 
site.  They seem genuine, but the online reviews I have read haven’t painted a 
very good picture.  A lot of one start ratings.  Evidently they mark the price 
up to make their profit, but if you get your bottom line, it seems like an ok 
deal.  I just haven’t taken their bait yet.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 17:04
To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Stus-List Pop yachts

 

Hey everyone

As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a message 
from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my vessel and tack 
their fee on top of the sale price.

 

Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable? Anything I 
should know about them good or bad? 

 

Thanks! 

Kevin

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Ron,

 

I use the performance formula.  It supposedly increases lubricity, as well as 
increasing the cetane rating.  I’ve used it for over 20 years and have no 
complaints.  I use it in my boats and my Duramax powered diesel Suburban.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ronald B. Frerker 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 18:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

 

>From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the 
>additives of majority choice.

One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks using, the Lubricity or 
Performance formula?  And does one formula cover both performance and lubricity?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List sheet routing to winch - 35-3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Graham ,

I got rid of the cheek blocks 18 years ago.  They didn't serve any useful 
function.  I go directly from the genoa car to either the primary or secondary 
winches.  The lead angles are almost the same, and they're quite good, even 
with the genoa car full forward for the #3 jib.

Midnight Mistress is still for sale.  Asking $35,000.  Come make an offer 
before I turn it over to a broker...

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of G Collins via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2018 19:23
To: C List 
Cc: G Collins 
Subject: Stus-List sheet routing to winch - 35-3

Hey, this talk of winch lead angles has me pondering again the setup we use on 
Secret Plans, I'm wondering what other 35-3 owners do.  We usually run the jib 
sheets on the secondaries (aft pair of winches) because on the primaries the 
winch handle hits the dodger, and if we use the secondaries I (while steering) 
can also crank the winch.  The line comes off the jib track block, back to the 
cheek block adjacent to the secondary winch, and up at a horrible angle onto 
the winch.  Which leads to more friction than there should be.

I'm thinking of just going from the block on the track to the winch.

Any better setups?  Cutting back the dodger isn't on the table. How do other 
35-3 owners do it?

regards,

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Diesel additive one last time

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

>From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the 
>additives of majority choice.One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks 
>using, the Lubricity or Performance formula?  And does one formula cover both 
>performance and lubricity?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

All

Pop Yachts sold a C 35 that was in Savannah to Dennis C's buddy Kevin a
couple of of month ago. The former owner has no complaints beyond having
said that he gave the boat away.

I knew the boat and truly felt that Kevin over paid at the time, but it did
sell quickly.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
C 39 TM
HONEY - US12788
Savannah, GA



On Mon, Aug 20, 2018 at 5:17 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ever heard of Pop Yachts?
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Paxton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 20, 2018 5:04 PM
> *To:* cnc-list Cnc-List
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton
> *Subject:* Stus-List Pop yachts
>
>
>
> Hey everyone
>
> As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a
> message from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my
> vessel and tack their fee on top of the sale price.
>
>
>
> Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable?
> Anything I should know about them good or bad?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kevin
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Idler plate corrosion & imminent failure

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

FYI, Photos of our idler plate replacement are still on the website. The link 
is listed on the main page of
http://cncphotoalbum.com/


> On August 20, 2018 at 3:23 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> This issue has been brought up numerous times, but bears repeating.  Had 
> it not been for a number of the folk here on the board, I would not have 
> known to check the idler plate.  Here's a couple photos of ours: 
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/kraaoftygwm02ie/Idler%20Plate%20%231.jpg?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pd3el5231il4g1k/Idler%20Plate%20%232.jpg?dl=0
> 
> As you can see, there wasn't much holding it together!
> 
> After a couple attempts to see if I could get the part made locally, I 
> sent it to Edson.  They are re-using the idler pulleys, and the replacement 
> was $341 including shipping, $150 of which was labor.  The plate is aluminum, 
> and I still need to see what I will do to address the fact that the aluminum 
> plate is thicker than the original mild steel plate.  I think I can grind 
> down the fiberglass in the cockpit rather than putting in a spacer, but I'll 
> figure that out when the plate arrives.
> 
> For those of you who have 37/40+ boats or other boats where the idler 
> wheels are NOT mounted below deck, I highly recommend you inspect the plate 
> closely!.  Our radial drive wheel and idlers are accessible via a removable 
> panel in the cockpit sole rather than by crawling down into a locker (or some 
> such).  This results in the plate being exposed to water and, especially in 
> salt water conditions, to extreme corrosion. 
> 
> Even for those of you with idler plates below deck, I would recommend a 
> close inspection.  The top side of the plate may be corroding without you 
> realizing it, and the unit's failure could be catastrophic, as it would very 
> likely occur at a time when you need your steering most. 
> 
> Hoping you find this helpful, and thanks to those of you on the board who 
> warned me about the issue! 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pop yachts

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Ever heard of Pop Yachts?

 



 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 5:04 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Stus-List Pop yachts

 

Hey everyone

As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a message 
from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my vessel and tack 
their fee on top of the sale price.

 

Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable? Anything I 
should know about them good or bad? 

 

Thanks! 

Kevin

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Pop yachts

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone
As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a
message from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my
vessel and tack their fee on top of the sale price.

Has anyone has any experience with these guys?  Are they reputable?
Anything I should know about them good or bad?

Thanks!
Kevin
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[Thomas Perison via CnC-List]

Colin- 
Will send a pic of my 29-2 this weekend is helpful. Just had all the running 
rigging replaced this summer. 
R
Tom
S/V Therapy 
Solomon Islands MD

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 19, 2018, at 8:41 PM, Colin A. Flock via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C 29-2? 
> Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek block is 
> seeing too much strain with this setup.  A link to a picture of the setup is 
> below.
> 
> Please ignore the other lines that are in need of replacement...the boat is 
> new to us and all of the running rigging is in rough shape. 
> 
> Colin
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Vh3S9UpgKZAZluT1dn8hba62IqKNpfqn/view?usp=sharing
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Idler plate corrosion & imminent failure

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
This issue has been brought up numerous times, but bears repeating.  Had it not 
been for a number of the folk here on the board, I would not have known to 
check the idler plate.  Here's a couple photos of ours:  

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kraaoftygwm02ie/Idler%20Plate%20%231.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pd3el5231il4g1k/Idler%20Plate%20%232.jpg?dl=0

As you can see, there wasn't much holding it together!
After a couple attempts to see if I could get the part made locally, I sent it 
to Edson.  They are re-using the idler pulleys, and the replacement was $341 
including shipping, $150 of which was labor.  The plate is aluminum, and I 
still need to see what I will do to address the fact that the aluminum plate is 
thicker than the original mild steel plate.  I think I can grind down the 
fiberglass in the cockpit rather than putting in a spacer, but I'll figure that 
out when the plate arrives.

For those of you who have 37/40+ boats or other boats where the idler wheels 
are NOT mounted below deck, I highly recommend you inspect the plate closely!.  
Our radial drive wheel and idlers are accessible via a removable panel in the 
cockpit sole rather than by crawling down into a locker (or some such).  This 
results in the plate being exposed to water and, especially in salt water 
conditions, to extreme corrosion.  

Even for those of you with idler plates below deck, I would recommend a close 
inspection.  The top side of the plate may be corroding without you realizing 
it, and the unit's failure could be catastrophic, as it would very likely occur 
at a time when you need your steering most.  

Hoping you find this helpful, and thanks to those of you on the board who 
warned me about the issue!  
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Don't assume your steering chain is fine...

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bruce, 
It cracked due to crevasse corrosion.  Good idea to inspect annually.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 20, 2018, at 3:03 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> As a few posters here know,  I am in the process of replacing the idler plate 
> on my 1994 C 37/40+.  During the process of pulling the binnacle and going 
> through it, I found one of the links in the chain had a crack/break in it.
> 
> Here's a photo:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/jaejlvvl2zsq7f4/Steering%20Chain%20%232.jpg?dl=0
> 
> I have chain on order.  So, now for the question:  Anyone know why this crack 
> might have developed?  I looked at some websites, and essentially fatigue 
> failure or stress corrosion cracking was suggested.  That said, given the 
> breaking strength of the chain, and the general good condition of the chain 
> and sprocket, it would seem unlikely that our steering systems would generate 
> the kind of stresses capable of cracking a link in the chain.
> 
> Nonetheless, this should serve as warning - don't just assume the chain is 
> fine.  Had I not been in a position of removing the chain and inspecting it 
> closely, I could have easily overlooked this!
> 
> Food for thought, 
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Don't assume your steering chain is fine...

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

As a few posters here know,  I am in the process of replacing the idler plate 
on my 1994 C 37/40+.  During the process of pulling the binnacle and going 
through it, I found one of the links in the chain had a crack/break in it.
Here's a photo:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jaejlvvl2zsq7f4/Steering%20Chain%20%232.jpg?dl=0

I have chain on order.  So, now for the question:  Anyone know why this crack 
might have developed?  I looked at some websites, and essentially fatigue 
failure or stress corrosion cracking was suggested.  That said, given the 
breaking strength of the chain, and the general good condition of the chain and 
sprocket, it would seem unlikely that our steering systems would generate the 
kind of stresses capable of cracking a link in the chain.
Nonetheless, this should serve as warning - don't just assume the chain is 
fine.  Had I not been in a position of removing the chain and inspecting it 
closely, I could have easily overlooked this!
Food for thought, 
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stay Tension Number Value

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

If your racing then you want to use a gauge, especially if you pull the mast 
every season.  I just had my rig tuned by Port Townsend Rigging and I asked 
lots of questions regarding tensioning rod rigging..For a cruising boat. They 
set the rig so there is some bend aft, mast is straight and centered side to 
side this they measure. As for tension that is set so there is about an inch of 
movement when you move the shroud in a circular direction under light finger 
pressure. All done by feel and years of experience. Then go sail in 12 to 15 
kts and see how the leeward shrouds feel and also how the mast bend looks. I 
hope this helps. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


null___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stay Tension Number Value

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Loos PT-2 and 1/4" wire?


Just a starting point put uppers at 36 and lowers at 32 on the gauge.


If you get out on a windy day with normal sail plan point up to where you are 
comfortable
and check how much tension is left in the lee shrouds. They should still be 
snug but will flex
with some pressure. If they are still rock hard you can ease the shrouds, if 
they are flopping
you need to tighten them.


Note that a soft keel step or flexing deck affect shroud tension under load.


The theory is that you want to keep the mast vertical. If the lee shrouds are 
flopping it
means the mast has leaned over a bit, may be placing a load at the deck partner 
or at
the step.


If possible site up the mast when under load. It should be straight, ie no 
bending side to side.
If the middle is bent to the lee tighten the lowers a bit, if the head is 
falling off tighten the uppers.


Despite cruising there is a benefit in getting the tension correct.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1






Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2018 10:35:10 -0400 
From: T Smyth  

 
I?m pretty sure I saw these at some point but cannot locate them again in the 
archives: 
I am looking for the recommended number value for (cruising) stay tensions for 
a C 30 MKI (1974). 
 
There is widespread, ample discussion of tuning stays on the Internet. I am 
interested now in specific recommended tensions for a C 30 MKI. 
 
Thanks in advance for your recommendations! 
 
Tom 
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Good Point Dennis I have an old wire Topping lift as well which is similar to 
original photo where rope adjustment runs thru old UV damaged (shot)  block. so 
I will have a look at this if I ever get Halcyon sailing again ! this spreader 
tip issue is Killing me ! ☹
Another note is your mini track with cheek block do you use  this for differnet 
reef point or something else ?

Thanks !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 10:02:28 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

Colin,

First, as a suggestion, it is not the best practice to sail with a wire topping 
lift.  The wire can abrade the stitches in your main sail necessitating repair.

I use an entirely different configuration on my 35-1 although topping lifts are 
fairly generic for older boats.  See this pic:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18pfxqfS8i9ypk1RkMVnbcnruCOZtOjyr

Note the springhook that attaches to the shackle on the end of the boom.  I 
detach the topping lift and carry it forward to the mast when I use the main 
sail.  In the photo, the block you see is a small block with a V-cleat.  The 
upper block, which is not shown, I believe is the same as the upper block on 
your lift.

This small purchase is adjustable and, in my opinion, easily removed or 
re-attached.

One caveat.  Touche' has a rigid boom vang for lifting the boom if needed while 
sailing.  If you have a rope vang and like to use the topping lift to elevate 
the boom while the main is hoisted, Touche's rig is probably not the best for 
you.  However, you may consider replacing the wire with line.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 7:42 PM Colin A. Flock via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C 29-2? 
Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek block is 
seeing too much strain with this setup.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Colin,

My setup is much like yours but without the purchase.  A couple thoughts:
- Why do you think that there is too much stress on the cheek block?  Is it
difficult to operate the topper?  I have a similar block which I believe is
rated at 500lbs.  There are times when I pull down against my topper with a
12:1 main sheet.  I'm not putting my all into it but even a modest 30 or 40
lbs of pull quickly approaches the 500lbs limit and I've never had a
problem.
- The topper looks like it is rubbing in that stainless eye strap on the
boom as it leads forward.  Any added friction will make operation
difficult.  I don't know the intended purpose of the strap but I don't
think it is to lead the topper.  It looks like the topper should lead clear
above the strap.
- The twist in the purchase on the port side will absolutely add friction
to the operation of the topper.
- I've given some thought to making my topper adjustable from the aft end
of the boom similar to the way Dennis's works.  TBH I almost got rid of my
topper since I don't really use it.  Its biggest use for me is supporting
the aft end of the sail pack.  You can see it in this video.
https://youtu.be/fT1k5oJhj3E



Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sun, Aug 19, 2018, 8:42 PM Colin A. Flock via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C
> 29-2? Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek
> block is seeing too much strain with this setup.  A link to a picture of
> the setup is below.
>
> Please ignore the other lines that are in need of replacement...the boat
> is new to us and all of the running rigging is in rough shape.
>
> Colin
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Vh3S9UpgKZAZluT1dn8hba62IqKNpfqn/view?usp=sharing
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Stay Tension Number Value

[T Smyth via CnC-List]

I’m pretty sure I saw these at some point but cannot locate them again in the 
archives:
I am looking for the recommended number value for (cruising) stay tensions for 
a C 30 MKI (1974).

There is widespread, ample discussion of tuning stays on the Internet. I am 
interested now in specific recommended tensions for a C 30 MKI.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations!

Tom
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29-2 Topping Lift Setup Question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Colin,

First, as a suggestion, it is not the best practice to sail with a wire
topping lift.  The wire can abrade the stitches in your main sail
necessitating repair.

I use an entirely different configuration on my 35-1 although topping lifts
are fairly generic for older boats.  See this pic:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18pfxqfS8i9ypk1RkMVnbcnruCOZtOjyr

Note the springhook that attaches to the shackle on the end of the boom.  I
detach the topping lift and carry it forward to the mast when I use the
main sail.  In the photo, the block you see is a small block with a
V-cleat.  The upper block, which is not shown, I believe is the same as the
upper block on your lift.

This small purchase is adjustable and, in my opinion, easily removed or
re-attached.

One caveat.  Touche' has a rigid boom vang for lifting the boom if needed
while sailing.  If you have a rope vang and like to use the topping lift to
elevate the boom while the main is hoisted, Touche's rig is probably not
the best for you.  However, you may consider replacing the wire with line.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Aug 19, 2018 at 7:42 PM Colin A. Flock via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a picture of a standard topping lift setup for a C
> 29-2? Ours seems to have been modified at some point and I think the cheek
> block is seeing too much strain with this setup.
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Smartplug

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Try this: http://smartplug.com/service-kits/

or this: http://smartplug.com/contact-page/

Ken H.

On Sun, 19 Aug 2018 at 15:55, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need a new strain relief for my Smartplug.  Does anyone have a contact
> number for the company, or a source for the strain relief?
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray