Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Roller furler - Profurl sam On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Gotcha! Roller furling or hank on Sam? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: Chris, I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135” I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff. sam On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter wrote: Chris, When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto. Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was doing it again. I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. Best upgrades: New sails Folding prop Self tailers (The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails) sam C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Thank you Sam! This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap (don't want to confuse the two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go. Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for. Chris On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: I have a 1977 C&C 26. I was looking for a 27 when I bought her. The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive! Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet. That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at. The 26 is a tender boat! She does move quite well in light air. I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed. I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea. I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular. She is a roomy boat which is nice! I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop. I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc.. I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches. She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake. Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away! Upgrades are much more fun than repairs. I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Season Haul out
Well, we hauled today. It was cloudy and 44 degrees at haul out (it was 39 degrees at drop in). It was a good season with our new (to us) C&C 35, Mark III. We have learned a lot about the boat this year. There are things about the Mark III that we really like and things that we wish were the same as the Mark I. Overall we are quite pleased with the "upgrade" to the Mark III. We had a bit of an issue at the end of the summer with weeds on White Lake. Hopefully they will dissipate over the winter. The bottom looked good on haul out. No blisters and no zebra muscles. There was still a piece of electrical tape on the prop shaft from masking for bottom paint. Now we are put to bed until May of next year. We are looking forward to even more adventures for next year. Neil Schiller 1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Gotcha! Roller furling or hank on Sam? Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: Chris, I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135” I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff. sam On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter wrote: Chris, When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was doing it again.I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. Best upgrades:New sailsFolding propSelf tailers (The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails) sam C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Thank you Sam! This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap (don't want to confuse the two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go. Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for. Chris On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: I have a 1977 C&C 26.I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at.The 26 is a tender boat!She does move quite well in light air.I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.She is a roomy boat which is nice!I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc..I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Chris, I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135” I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff. sam On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter wrote: Chris, When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto. Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was doing it again. I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. Best upgrades: New sails Folding prop Self tailers (The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails) sam C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Thank you Sam! This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap (don't want to confuse the two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go. Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for. Chris On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: I have a 1977 C&C 26. I was looking for a 27 when I bought her. The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive! Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet. That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at. The 26 is a tender boat! She does move quite well in light air. I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed. I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea. I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular. She is a roomy boat which is nice! I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop. I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc.. I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches. She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake. Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away! Upgrades are much more fun than repairs. I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Excellent!!! Thanks so much for the suggestions Sam! Noted!! Fair Winds Chris Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:03 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: Chris, When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was doing it again.I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. Best upgrades:New sailsFolding propSelf tailers (The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails) sam C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Thank you Sam! This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap (don't want to confuse the two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go. Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for. Chris On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: I have a 1977 C&C 26.I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at.The 26 is a tender boat!She does move quite well in light air.I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.She is a roomy boat which is nice!I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc..I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Chris, When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto. Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was doing it again. I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. Best upgrades: New sails Folding prop Self tailers (The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails) sam C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote: Thank you Sam! This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap (don't want to confuse the two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go. Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for. Chris On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: I have a 1977 C&C 26. I was looking for a 27 when I bought her. The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive! Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet. That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at. The 26 is a tender boat! She does move quite well in light air. I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed. I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea. I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular. She is a roomy boat which is nice! I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop. I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc.. I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches. She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake. Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away! Upgrades are much more fun than repairs. I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Anyone racing C&C 30 MKII?
Hi Allen, Very interesting comments regarding your experience with a C&C MK2. If you have a moment, let's connect up. Maybe we're related, as we own the same boat...#115. mi...@intergate.ca David Miles 1988 C&C MK2 Impulse On October 11, 2018 10:45:10 Allen Miles via CnC-List wrote: Hi Doug, I had Septima for 24 years. She has a winged keel. Sails really fast and high if you limit heel to 17-18 degrees and no more than 4 degrees rudder. I marked the leather wheel cover to indicate 4 degrees port or starboard. Helms person puts approprite mark TDC, tells main trimmer, who is playing mainsail lateral position with the Harken windward car on traveler mounted on bridge deck, how helm feels. Too light, raise car, too heavy, lower car an inch. The keel's foils are very efficient at racing speeds. You don't want to stall them out. Allen Miles former Aeronautical Engineer On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 11:11 AM Morgan Ellis via CnC-List wrote: Hi Doug, I'm just finishing my second season with my 30-2 and absolutely love it! Although I don't race mine it would make an excellent race boat and could be sailed to her rating fairly easily. I do my racing on a friend's J35, so I don't need to spend the extra for the fancy sails for my own boat. I have heard of some 30-2's that are raced very successfully on Lake Ontario. I put on over 600nm each year cruising on Lake Superior and this boat does it all very well. I've crossed the lake each year heading down to Bayfield, she handles the big water with ease, but does like to be reefed fairly early. I'm not sure if I would want the wing keel version? Being a racer at heart, I do like how she points and it is a relatively tender boat compared to other C&C's, so I'm just not willing to give up the performance edge for a few inches of draft. Feel free to contact me at svmeand...@gmail.com if you want anymore feed back on the 30-2. As it's snowing here today I am going to haul out this afternoon :( Reagrds, Morgan Ellis SV Meandher 30-2 #140 Thunder Bay, ON ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
Painted my Edson pedestal with white brightsides in 2015. On the advice from Interlux, I sanded down to bare aluminum and primed immediately with white barrier coat and several coats of white brightsides. The key to priming aluminum is to prime it asap after sanding so it does not have time to oxidize. Had to remove the pedestal to do it though; too cold here in the off season to paint outside. Still looks great after 3 yrs. Did the same process on mast and spreaders the year before and it still looks great too. Mike Amirault C&C33II Lovely Cruise St margarets Bay, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Painting pedestal
Dittopainted mine about 10 years ago with a Rustoleum flat blackused a very fine foam roller for most of the jobsmall brush to fitone coat and is still looking fine. And a fraction of the cost of the marine graded stuff. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S. On 2018-10-12 1:44 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote: I also used Rustoleum for an aluminum pedestal piece with excellent results. ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
I painted my pedestal and binnacle compass cover with Rustoleum with good long lasting results. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Oct 12, 2018 at 11:22 AM Rick Brass via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I painted the pedestal on my 38 back in 2008 as part of a refit, while the > rudder was out and steering idler plate was being replaced. Painting in > place was not an option because of the stainless tubes that the shift and > throttle cables use on my old style pedestal, and because of the pedestal > guard. > > > > I sanded the existing powder coated surface with something like 100-120 > grit to get some tooth, then primed and painted with Rustoleum marine > enamel (which Practical Sailor has said very good things about, especially > considering it is ¼ the cost of Brightside). The pedestal is still in great > shape. I’m sure it won’t be a durable as getting the pedestal powder coated > again, but sure was a lot simpler. > > > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck > Saur via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, October 12, 2018 9:02 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Chuck Saur > *Subject:* Stus-List Painting pedestal > > > > Happy fall to all... > > I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to > replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, > and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black > with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not > removing the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The > old black powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. > > > > I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, but > am exploring painting this one. > > > > My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or > procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? > > > > And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate > checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! > > > > > > > > > > *Chuck Saur* > > > > (517)-490-5926 > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
I also used Rustoleum for an aluminum pedestal piece with excellent results. From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 12:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal I painted the pedestal on my 38 back in 2008 as part of a refit, while the rudder was out and steering idler plate was being replaced. Painting in place was not an option because of the stainless tubes that the shift and throttle cables use on my old style pedestal, and because of the pedestal guard. I sanded the existing powder coated surface with something like 100-120 grit to get some tooth, then primed and painted with Rustoleum marine enamel (which Practical Sailor has said very good things about, especially considering it is ¼ the cost of Brightside). The pedestal is still in great shape. I’m sure it won’t be a durable as getting the pedestal powder coated again, but sure was a lot simpler. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via CnC-List Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 9:02 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur Subject: Stus-List Painting pedestal Happy fall to all... I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not removing the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, but am exploring painting this one. My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! Chuck Saur (517)-490-5926 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
I painted the pedestal on my 38 back in 2008 as part of a refit, while the rudder was out and steering idler plate was being replaced. Painting in place was not an option because of the stainless tubes that the shift and throttle cables use on my old style pedestal, and because of the pedestal guard. I sanded the existing powder coated surface with something like 100-120 grit to get some tooth, then primed and painted with Rustoleum marine enamel (which Practical Sailor has said very good things about, especially considering it is ¼ the cost of Brightside). The pedestal is still in great shape. I’m sure it won’t be a durable as getting the pedestal powder coated again, but sure was a lot simpler. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur via CnC-List Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 9:02 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur Subject: Stus-List Painting pedestal Happy fall to all... I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not removing the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, but am exploring painting this one. My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! Chuck Saur (517)-490-5926 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Thank you Sam! This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap (don't want to confuse the two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go. Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for. Chris On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote: I have a 1977 C&C 26.I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at.The 26 is a tender boat!She does move quite well in light air.I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.She is a roomy boat which is nice!I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc..I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 11, 2018, at 11:05 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote: The gap from a 24' to a 27' is much bigger than the gap from a 27' to a 30'. I looked at several 30-1 before getting my 27MkII and yeah, they are a bit bigger, but really you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference below (or above decks) unless you were already familiar with both. As it turns out, I have never used the 27 for the purpose I bought her for and in many cases quite regret moving from my C&C24 - the boat is just as easy to handle in most situations, just more complex: moving from outboard to inboard, porta-potty to marine head, wiring blah blah. Both sail wonderfully. I can't really comment on your 26 vs 27 as I am not familiar with the 26, but the 27MkII is a nice boat to sail, can carry more sail in heavier winds than the later ones due to more ballast and a slightly shorter mast, but not quite as good in the light stuff for the same reasons (I've always thought a MkIII rudder would be a nice modification to the MkII though). Of course the MkI is a bit stiffer still since the mast is even shorter. Having said that, sounds like the 27 you are considering needs a fair bit of work, maybe hold out for a nicer one?FYI, the 26 appears to be pretty much the most tender boat C&C ever built, http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technica/stability.htm (for the 27s I believe that diagram shows the C&C designations where Mk1TM is what we refer to as the MkII, MkII is what we think of as the MkIII/IV, and "New 27" is the MkV). Theoretical measurements of course, but it usually translates fairly well into real world tippyness which can often be a factor for non-sailing guests/significant others. Cheers,Paul.1974 27' MkIISidney, BC | DELLENBAUGH ANGLE - C&C Photo Album & Resource CenterThis is the angle that the vessel is presumed to heel given a force of 1 pound per square foot on the sails, assuming they were all sheeted flat amidships.www.cncphotoalbum.com | From: CnC-List on behalf of Chris Graham via CnC-List Sent: October 11, 2018 6:53 AM To: Richard Bush via CnC-List Cc: Chris Graham Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price. I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;) I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!! :) Chris On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote:___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
I have a 1977 C&C 26. I was looking for a 27 when I bought her. The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive! Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet. That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I looked at. The 26 is a tender boat! She does move quite well in light air. I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed. I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea. I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular. She is a roomy boat which is nice! I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop. I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / ridged vang / etc., etc.. I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with the genoa trimmer behind on the winches. She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake. Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away! Upgrades are much more fun than repairs. I see too many project boats that never get in the water. sam C$C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On Oct 11, 2018, at 11:05 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote: The gap from a 24' to a 27' is much bigger than the gap from a 27' to a 30'. I looked at several 30-1 before getting my 27MkII and yeah, they are a bit bigger, but really you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference below (or above decks) unless you were already familiar with both. As it turns out, I have never used the 27 for the purpose I bought her for and in many cases quite regret moving from my C&C24 - the boat is just as easy to handle in most situations, just more complex: moving from outboard to inboard, porta-potty to marine head, wiring blah blah. Both sail wonderfully. I can't really comment on your 26 vs 27 as I am not familiar with the 26, but the 27MkII is a nice boat to sail, can carry more sail in heavier winds than the later ones due to more ballast and a slightly shorter mast, but not quite as good in the light stuff for the same reasons (I've always thought a MkIII rudder would be a nice modification to the MkII though). Of course the MkI is a bit stiffer still since the mast is even shorter. Having said that, sounds like the 27 you are considering needs a fair bit of work, maybe hold out for a nicer one? FYI, the 26 appears to be pretty much the most tender boat C&C ever built, http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technica/stability.htm (for the 27s I believe that diagram shows the C&C designations where Mk1TM is what we refer to as the MkII, MkII is what we think of as the MkIII/IV, and "New 27" is the MkV). Theoretical measurements of course, but it usually translates fairly well into real world tippyness which can often be a factor for non-sailing guests/significant others. Cheers, Paul. 1974 27' MkII Sidney, BC DELLENBAUGH ANGLE - C&C Photo Album & Resource Center This is the angle that the vessel is presumed to heel given a force of 1 pound per square foot on the sails, assuming they were all sheeted flat amidships. www.cncphotoalbum.com From: CnC-List on behalf of Chris Graham via CnC-List Sent: October 11, 2018 6:53 AM To: Richard Bush via CnC-List Cc: Chris Graham Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price. I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;) I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!! :) Chris On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote: ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop
G'day Listers, I've had nothing but wonderful experiences with both my Campbell sailor propellers. My experience with another company was dismal & resulted in a ruined leave of absence... Met Mr. Campbell several years ago & toured his shop in Nanaimo BC, he was 74 years of age & thinking of retirement. He had been building props for nearly 50 years!. Best! Anne Tichborne sv Truancy 1982 CnC 34 Vancouver, BC On Thu, Oct 11, 2018, 07:39 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: > Hi Don > > In Nova Scotia there were a number of boats that went to the Campbell > Sailor three blade. The rationale was that it received PHRF credits for > three blade but had a drag similar to two blade. The PHRF adjustments > later changed such that a 2 blade and a 3 blade fixed prop had the same > credit. I have not heard anything bad about the performance under motor > > Mike > Persistence > Halifax, NS > > > > -Original Message- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON > JONSSON via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 11:35 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: DON JONSSON > Subject: Stus-List Campbell Sailor Prop > > Hi > > Thinking about putting a Campbell Sailor 3 bladed prop on our boat. Has > anybody got any experience with it? > > Thanks > Don > Andante, > Victoria > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
I painted our black pedestal using Brightside, Matterhorn White back in 2003. It still looks good except for a few small places where it got hit by a winch handle and scraped off. I'll touchup with Brightside. First, I sanded and primed with that green primer first and then painted two coats of white. Sanding is the most important part as it creates a mechanical tooth that the paint can grab onto. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md > On October 12, 2018 at 9:07 AM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" > wrote: > > I believe Edson used to have a fact sheet posted on it website describing > how to re-paint pedestals. As I recall, the biggest problem is getting paint > to stick to aluminum. > > From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 9:01 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Chuck Saur mailto:cssau...@gmail.com > Subject: Stus-List Painting pedestal > > Happy fall to all... > I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to > replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, > and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black > with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not removing > the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black > powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. > > I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, > but am exploring painting this one. > > My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or > procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? > > And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate > checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! > > > > > Chuck Saur > > (517)-490-5926 > > > > > - > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
https://edsonmarine.com/content/EB%20345-09%20Painting%20instructions.pdf From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 9:01 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur Subject: Stus-List Painting pedestal Happy fall to all... I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not removing the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, but am exploring painting this one. My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! Chuck Saur (517)-490-5926 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Painting pedestal
I believe Edson used to have a fact sheet posted on it website describing how to re-paint pedestals. As I recall, the biggest problem is getting paint to stick to aluminum. From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List Sent: Friday, October 12, 2018 9:01 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Saur Subject: Stus-List Painting pedestal Happy fall to all... I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not removing the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, but am exploring painting this one. My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! Chuck Saur (517)-490-5926 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Painting pedestal
Happy fall to all... I have disassembled most of the Edson pedestal on my new-to-me 37+ to replace the brake, replace the guard, install a new pod, do some rewiring, and lube and inspect steering. So now I want to paint the old faded black with a new shiny gloss white. I would rather do this in place, not removing the ped. I'm fairly adept in the fine art of masking tape. The old black powder coat is intact, sandable and prime-able. I had the pedestal powder coated on my old 35-3 and loved the results, but am exploring painting this one. My question for the list-er collective expertise is what paint and/or procedure would you recommend for this task? Anyone try this? And additional thanks for recommending the idler wheel/bottom plate checkup. All is fine. Thanks!! *Chuck Saur* (517)-490-5926 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List padwheel issues
Dan Glad to hear you were successfulnow that you have done it, the next time will be a lot less stressful. I didn't realize I was addressing someone at the Armdale Yacht ClubI drive by there several times a week to my boatif I had known, I could have arranged to meet you and either cleaned it or guided you through it. Nevertheless, it's done. I sometimes have to take mine out twice a season to clear debris/growth. This season, for some reason, I made it to just last week when the padwheel got stuck. I took it out, cleaned it and left it out.I always have the padwheel out when the boat is hauled and/or launched..don't want the padwheel touching any part of my cradlethey are very fragile and it doesn't take much to damage them. One other thing, do not lubricate it with anythingsometimes I initially clean mine with WD-40 and a Q-tip but always thoroughly rinse the WD-40 with a liquid detergent and hot water. The lubrication, no matter what kind, does not work well in salt waterit will slowly gum up making it even more difficult for the wheel to spin. I think I can see your boat from the Purcell's Cove Roadare you docked in the club's back cove? Regards Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S On 2018-10-11 10:29 PM, Daniel Cormier via CnC-List wrote: I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! Dan Breakaweigh C&C44 Halifax, NS ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
Yes! The 26' is very tender from what I understand. Stiffens a bit past 22 degrees I think I have heard? My Vega was tender too but stiffened up quickly and tracked beautifully once I found the sweet spot. :) Thanks Paul!C On Friday, October 12, 2018, 2:06:07 AM EDT, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote: The gap from a 24' to a 27' is much bigger than the gap from a 27' to a 30'. I looked at several 30-1 before getting my 27MkII and yeah, they are a bit bigger, but really you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference below (or above decks) unless you were already familiar with both. As it turns out, I have never used the 27 for the purpose I bought her for and in many cases quite regret moving from my C&C24 - the boat is just as easy to handle in most situations, just more complex: moving from outboard to inboard, porta-potty to marine head, wiring blah blah. Both sail wonderfully. I can't really comment on your 26 vs 27 as I am not familiar with the 26, but the 27MkII is a nice boat to sail, can carry more sail in heavier winds than the later ones due to more ballast and a slightly shorter mast, but not quite as good in the light stuff for the same reasons (I've always thought a MkIII rudder would be a nice modification to the MkII though). Of course the MkI is a bit stiffer still since the mast is even shorter. Having said that, sounds like the 27 you are considering needs a fair bit of work, maybe hold out for a nicer one?FYI, the 26 appears to be pretty much the most tender boat C&C ever built, http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technica/stability.htm (for the 27s I believe that diagram shows the C&C designations where Mk1TM is what we refer to as the MkII, MkII is what we think of as the MkIII/IV, and "New 27" is the MkV). Theoretical measurements of course, but it usually translates fairly well into real world tippyness which can often be a factor for non-sailing guests/significant others. Cheers,Paul.1974 27' MkIISidney, BC | DELLENBAUGH ANGLE - C&C Photo Album & Resource CenterThis is the angle that the vessel is presumed to heel given a force of 1 pound per square foot on the sails, assuming they were all sheeted flat amidships.www.cncphotoalbum.com | From: CnC-List on behalf of Chris Graham via CnC-List Sent: October 11, 2018 6:53 AM To: Richard Bush via CnC-List Cc: Chris Graham Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'? I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price. I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;) I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!! :) Chris On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List wrote:___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: padwheel issues
My plug is in 99% of the time. I only put the speed transducer in when I want to use it or it gets clogged up in a week ☹ Pulling them in and out is a routine thing, they were made to do this. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:29 PM, Daniel Cormier mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote: I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! Dan Breakaweigh C&C44 Halifax, NS Sent from my iPhone On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Dan: One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing forward and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down before I can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined up because I can now longer turn the plug. But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the padwheel is clean of any debris. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - #277 Halifax, N.S On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List padwheel issues
Can’t wait to see the video 😊 /John > On Oct 11, 2018, at 9:29 PM, Daniel Cormier wrote: > > I swapped it out for the plug tonight and it worked. I got about 4 or 5 cups > of water out but nothing severe. The wheel was full of baby muscles. I > cleaned it out, gave it a spin and got all my data! Working and AOK! :) > thanks everyone for the feedback and tips! > > Dan > Breakaweigh > C&C44 > Halifax, NS > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:17 PM, robert via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Dan: >> One thing with my 2 plugs, both the transducer and the blank, they fit down >> into the thru hull in an exact position.yours may be differentbut on >> mine, on both plugs, there are two points that have to be lined up to drop >> into their respective slots on the thru hullone obvious reason for this >> is to ensure you install the padwheel in the correct position, facing >> forward and not to a side angleon both plugs, I need a few turns down >> before I can feel if they are in their slotsI know when things are lined >> up because I can now longer turn the plug. >> >> But like I said, mine is an old 34 year Signet but it works fine when the >> padwheel is clean of any debris. >> >> Rob Abbott >> AZURA >> C&C 32 - #277 >> Halifax, N.S >> >> >> >>> On Thu, Oct 11, 2018 at 9:59 AM Dan via CnC-List wrote: or bite the bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys seem to think it's a breeze... WISH ME LUCK! Dan >>> >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
