Stus-List Stuffing box issue and update on dirty fuel

[robert via CnC-List]

Don:
Can't say exactly what your problem might beyou said you used 1/4 
inch flaxon what size prop shaft?   I have a 1" shaft and use 3/16" 
and it works fine.  This might be helpful:


https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/

Can't suggest anything with the engine issuenot my expertisebut 
if air is getting into your fuel system, it will stall your engine.


I had problem that involved an 'air leak'not the same as yours but 
significant.launched, started the engine, no water exhaust from the 
transom thruhullstop engine, check all hose connections, thru hulls 
which don't ever get closed over winter are all openstart engine, no 
water exhaust.now whatfinally put light on the raw water 
strainer with glass bowl which still has antifreezetighten the 2 
wing nuts on the top of the strainer which was sucking air and not sea 
water and we are good to go.  It can be that simple or worse.


Rob Abbott
AZURAbut
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.





On 2018-12-02 10:39 p.m., DON JONSSON via CnC-List wrote:

Stuffing Box Issues

In the last week we took the boat out of the water, put on a new Campbell 
Sailor prop.,  pulled the shaft and put in a new cutlass bearing, and repacked 
the stuffing box.

Considering it is a boat all went reasonably well.  As an aside we are very 
happy with the prop in the short test we did.  More power and way smoother than 
the two bladed prop we took off.  Way smoother.

However, this was my first attempt at doing the stuffing box and it is not 
going well.  Previously I always paid someone, perhaps a lesson there.  I'm 
hoping someone can give some insight.

We used flax rings 1/4 inch which seem to fit well into the nut.  They were cut 
at 45 degrees and the cuts placed at different positions around the shaft.  
Before being pushed in.  We used 4 rings.

At the moment it is dripping slightly when not running.  When starting out the 
box drips slowly when at idle whether in gear or not.   As you power up it 
continues to drip but as the box warms up the dripping slows down, causing the 
box to get warmer and warmer.  Ultimately the dripping stops and things get 
hot.  When you stop and go back to idle and let it cool down it ultimately 
starts to drip again.  You can loosen the nut so that when not running you are 
getting a steady drip, but when you power up the process repeats itself.

So the question is what have I done wrong?

Dirty Fuel Blues

In a previous email I talked about fuel problems we were having that seemed 
odd.  Odd in that we thought it was dirty fuel but the primary filter wasn't 
that dirty.  And we ultimately got the engine running again without changing 
the filter.  Someone suggested that it could be air in the top of the Racor 500 
filter and then when running the engine while motor sailing if you had enough 
heel you would get bubbles in the fuel line which would cause the problem.  And 
that scenario of motor sailing is what was going on shortly before the engine 
died.Sure enough we had air in the top of the filter, which we thought 
could have been from not properly filling it when we recently (previous to the 
problem) changed the filter.  So we drained the tank, sucked out everything on 
the bottom so that it is reasonably clean, changed the filters and filled to 
the top the Racor 500.  Everything runs fine now, except the top of Racor 
housing continues to get about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of air in it.  We
  have checked lines, tightened everything that can be tightened, etc.  All the 
fittings have been re-taped and tightened, etc.

That air has to be coming from somewhere, right?  And we think that was the 
cause of our engine quitting.

Any ideas?

As always, thanks.

Don
Andante, C&C 34, Victoria

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Another decent article on winter self-discharge can be found here: 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge .

Not on the C&C Photo Album site, but almost as good.

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Ken Heaton via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 2, 2018 07:27
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: Surrette 
Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm

Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge very slowly, the colder the storage 
temperature, the slower.  Start with them fully charged and everything shut off 
and better yet a cable disconnected.

Ken H.

On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 at 06:59, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
If your batteries are good they will hold charge all winter long if you do as 
Robert on AZURA explained. Did i suggest you do it that way Robert?  If they 
don’t hold charge you can probably look forward to buying new batteries very 
soon. Consider it a test on your batteries: works every time but dont drop by 
occaisionaly during winter storage to charge them if you want a reliable test

On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 5:19 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I would not put a solar panel without a controller, even if it puts only 1 A.

Why? I murdered two batteries this way. My panel was 15 W, so hardly tons of 
current, but each battery lasted just about a season. I thought that spending 
extra $50 for a controller was a waste of money. I blamed the batteries, but I 
learned since.

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Len Mitchell via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 12:04
To: CNC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Len Mitchell mailto:xfireca...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

Not sure why no one has talked about a solar panel to keep batteries topped up! 
Or did I miss something? The price just keeps getting lower and they work well. 
Mine are always up and the boat is covered in canvas plus snow. A small 
inexpensive panel will deliver 2 amps or less in the daylight and won’t even 
require a controller at that charge rate. If your batteries are being 
discharged or they aren’t strong enough, they can freeze. Check specific 
gravity and electrolyte level yes!
Len

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[robert via CnC-List]

Have you ever thought about dry ice blastingeffective, quick, 
clean.check out this or just Google dry ice blastingdid my boat 
bottom this way.


https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=wickens+dry+ice+blasting&qpvt=wickens+dry+ice+blasting&FORM=VDRE

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax N.S.


On 2018-12-02 5:19 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Some parts of my engine (Beta 28) are flaking their Ford red paint and 
before I clean and paint the entire engine, I would like to
soda blast these parts--sanding or even wire brushing would be 
ineffective since much of the flaking is in places where it

is difficult if not impossible to fit, let alone use a small brush.

Since the areas are small, I thought I might use a relatively small 
volume air compressor to do it. OTOH, most sites on the web

claim that you need a large volume compressor to do blasting like this.

I think that with a smaller volume tank I might only get serious 
pressure in short time bursts while the compressor motor works to
build up the tank pressure. Is this correct and if so, could such a 
small job be tackled without a large volume compressor?


Has anyone on the list attempted something like this with success (or 
not!)?


Charlie Nelson
C&C 36 XL



cenel...@aol.com


-Original Message-
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Sent: Sun, Dec 2, 2018 8:24 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

Chemical name?? Is it trisodium phosphate, which i think is the best 
water based degreaser going.


On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:23 AM coltrek--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything
I have ever used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to
get it on your hands for very long. Rubber gloves would help
Bill Coleman
C&C 39, Erie PA

On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of
oil etc. Some of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[Dan via CnC-List]

That storm destroyed the dock I was on at AYC. The piece of dock my boat
was tied to broke free and was about to make history when some folks who I
am eternally greatful to lashed the dock back together with some old nylon
lines. My boat took a few small gel coat rubbs but otherwise made it
unharmed. My home-made drop-sheet enclosure survived both the xmas day and
boxing day storms, then another one in January. It was an insane winter!
All caught on camera and posted to YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-aDgJIuZ8Y

Dan Cormier
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[Dan via CnC-List]

That storm destroyed the dock I was on at AYC. The piece of dock my boat
was tied to broke free and was about to make history when some folks who I
am eternally greatful to lashed the dock back together with some old nylon
lines. My boat took a few small gel coat rubbs but otherwise made it
unharmed. My home-made drop-sheet enclosure survived both the xmas day and
boxing day storms, then another one in January. It was an insane winter!
All caught on camera and posted to YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h-aDgJIuZ8Y



On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 11:15 AM robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My batteries are Group 27's, deep cycle, made by Great Northern Batteries
> purchased in April 2009 and have seen 10 sailing seasons now.one get
> used almost every day during the sailing seasonI alternate use from one
> day to another to even their use. They have never been off the boat since
> purchased.
>
> My boat gets shrink wrapped with an access door so I can go aboard
> easily..however, last year on Xmas day, we had a big wind storm that
> somehow blew my door off never to be foundI had extra shrink wrap so I
> cut apiece to cover the opening and Tuck taped in place..In November,
> the batteries were fully charged with topped up electrolyte with everything
> disconnected. I did not go aboard until the first week of April.
>
> In April, I tested the batteriesone was 12.48V, the second was
> 12.52V.a little discharge but that is to be expected.  If your
> batteries can hold their charge, I see no reason to remove very heavy
> batteries where their is also the risk of an accident occurring moving
> them.  I recall weighing one and it was something over 50 lbs. which is not
> an insignificant weight to be moving around even if the battery has a
> plastic handle to carry it.
>
> I really should be thinking about replacing them but they still hold their
> charge.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2018-12-02 8:26 a.m., Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: Surrette
> Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm
>
> Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge *very* slowly, the colder the
> storage temperature, the slower.  Start with them fully charged and
> everything shut off and better yet a cable disconnected.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Some parts of my engine (Beta 28) are flaking their Ford red paint and before I 
clean and paint the entire engine, I would like to 
soda blast these parts--sanding or even wire brushing would be ineffective 
since much of the flaking is in places where it
is difficult if not impossible to fit, let alone use a small brush.


Since the areas are small, I thought I might use a relatively small volume air 
compressor to do it. OTOH, most sites on the web
claim that you need a large volume compressor to do blasting like this.


I think that with a smaller volume tank I might only get serious pressure in 
short time bursts while the compressor motor works to 
build up the tank pressure. Is this correct and if so, could such a small job 
be tackled without a large volume compressor?


Has anyone on the list attempted something like this with success (or not!)?


Charlie Nelson
C&C 36 XL





cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Sent: Sun, Dec 2, 2018 8:24 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.



Chemical name?? Is it trisodium phosphate, which i think is the best water 
based degreaser going. 



On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:23 AM coltrek--- via CnC-List  
wrote:


I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have ever 
used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your hands for 
very long. Rubber gloves would help
Bill Coleman 
 C&C 39, Erie PA


On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:


What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc. Some 
of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[robert via CnC-List]

My batteries are Group 27's, deep cycle, made by Great Northern 
Batteries purchased in April 2009 and have seen 10 sailing seasons 
now.one get used almost every day during the sailing seasonI 
alternate use from one day to another to even their use. They have never 
been off the boat since purchased.


My boat gets shrink wrapped with an access door so I can go aboard 
easily..however, last year on Xmas day, we had a big wind storm that 
somehow blew my door off never to be foundI had extra shrink wrap so 
I cut apiece to cover the opening and Tuck taped in place..In 
November, the batteries were fully charged with topped up electrolyte 
with everything disconnected. I did not go aboard until the first week 
of April.


In April, I tested the batteriesone was 12.48V, the second was 
12.52V.a little discharge but that is to be expected.  If your 
batteries can hold their charge, I see no reason to remove very heavy 
batteries where their is also the risk of an accident occurring moving 
them.  I recall weighing one and it was something over 50 lbs. which is 
not an insignificant weight to be moving around even if the battery has 
a plastic handle to carry it.


I really should be thinking about replacing them but they still hold 
their charge.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-02 8:26 a.m., Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: 
Surrette Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage


http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm

Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge _very_ slowly, the colder 
the storage temperature, the slower. Start with them fully charged and 
everything shut off and better yet a cable disconnected.


Ken H.



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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

TSP?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 2, 2018, at 8:23 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chemical name?? Is it trisodium phosphate, which i think is the best water 
> based degreaser going. 
> 
>> On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:23 AM coltrek--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have 
>> ever used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your 
>> hands for very long. Rubber gloves would help
>> 
>> Bill Coleman 
>> C&C 39, Erie PA
>> 
>> On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc. 
>> Some of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Chemical name?? Is it trisodium phosphate, which i think is the best water
based degreaser going.

On Sun, Dec 2, 2018 at 8:23 AM coltrek--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have
> ever used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your
> hands for very long. Rubber gloves would help
>
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39, Erie PA
> --
> On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc.
> Some of the degreasers seem to be quite corrosive.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Stu has an article linked on the front page of the Photo Album: Surrette
Battery Co. Ltd. Bulletin #506 - Winter Storage

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/batteries/batteries.htm

Batteries stored below 59 F. self discharge *very* slowly, the colder the
storage temperature, the slower.  Start with them fully charged and
everything shut off and better yet a cable disconnected.

Ken H.

On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 at 06:59, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If your batteries are good they will hold charge all winter long if you do
> as Robert on AZURA explained. Did i suggest you do it that way Robert?  If
> they don’t hold charge you can probably look forward to buying new
> batteries very soon. Consider it a test on your batteries: works every time
> but dont drop by occaisionaly during winter storage to charge them if you
> want a reliable test
>
> On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 5:19 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I would not put a solar panel without a controller, even if it puts only
>> 1 A.
>>
>> Why? I murdered two batteries this way. My panel was 15 W, so hardly tons
>> of current, but each battery lasted just about a season. I thought that
>> spending extra $50 for a controller was a waste of money. I blamed the
>> batteries, but I learned since.
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Len Mitchell
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 12:04
>> To: CNC List 
>> Cc: Len Mitchell 
>> Subject: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.
>>
>> Not sure why no one has talked about a solar panel to keep batteries
>> topped up! Or did I miss something? The price just keeps getting lower and
>> they work well. Mine are always up and the boat is covered in canvas plus
>> snow. A small inexpensive panel will deliver 2 amps or less in the daylight
>> and won’t even require a controller at that charge rate. If your batteries
>> are being discharged or they aren’t strong enough, they can freeze. Check
>> specific gravity and electrolyte level yes!
>> Len
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7C%7Ca67690fca0e2498e74a408d657af2b48%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636792807180125612&sdata=j593mYImrxf4aB2QjfK54JGKjFeJQG58gP%2BwCt2Ic3A%3D&reserved=0
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I use oil eater for stuff like that. It works better than anything I have ever 
used. But it is very alkaline, so you don't want to get it on your hands for 
very long. Rubber gloves would help

Bill Coleman 
 C&C 39, Erie PA
On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:
What is the safest thing to use to clean off accumulated years of oil etc. Some 
of the degreasers seem to be quite 
corrosive.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Instruments

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi John,

When we purchased out boat back in 2010 it had a full suite of old Autohelm
ST50 instruments which had a number of issues so we replaced then all with
the following:

Nav Station – Raymarine i70 Multifunction Instrument

Cockpit – Cabin House aft bulkhead port: Raymarine i50 Speed and i50 Depth,
and i60 Wind Instruments, and House aft bulkhead starboard: i60 Close
Hauled Wind / VMG Instrument

Helm – Raymarine i70 Multifunction Instrument


The i70 installed at the Nav Station below and also at the helm let you
display anything that is on any of the other instruments, as well as some
any other data that may be on the network, such as AIS information, water
temperature, etc. We're please with the setup.  If we replace our autopilot
controller and / or our Chartplotter at some point in the future we tie
those into the network too, so they can all work together.

As we had the i70 at the helm we didn't really need the i60 Close Hauled /
VMG but there was a hole in the bulkhead for it and I was used to having it
there so we got it anyway.

Ken H.

On Sat, 1 Dec 2018 at 19:14, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well
> except the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are
> in need of replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work
> great.  We do not have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart
> plotter or AIS as no need
>
>
>
> We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions
> of which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50
> suite due to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost,
> ready availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.
> Hole size in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in
> bulkhead but have the room
>
>
>
>
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and-wind-systems-pack&path=-1|344|2028690|2028820&id=2086335
>
>
>
>
>
> Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Instruments

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I like my Raymarine gear, st60 set if memory serves, about 6-8 years old
cant remember, onset of dementia maybe. I added a separate graphic display
to speed depth and wind in the package and that display is mostly used to
show apparent wind speed and apparent wind angle in big digits but
sometimes for sea temp and battery voltage. Anything or combinations of 4
things that the other 3 units measure.

On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 10:19 PM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think your plan is just fine and you'll be very happy with the Raymarine
> gear. I changed to B&G for my new boat, but that was because it has some
> pretty advanced functions and integrates well with the Expedition planning
> software, which I don't pretend to understand, but my navigator does!
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Dec 1, 2018, at 18:15, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well
> except the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are
> in need of replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work
> great.  We do not have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart
> plotter or AIS as no need
>
>
>
> We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions
> of which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50
> suite due to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost,
> ready availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.
> Hole size in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in
> bulkhead but have the room
>
>
>
>
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and-wind-systems-pack&path=-1|344|2028690|2028820&id=2086335
>
>
>
>
>
> Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

If your batteries are good they will hold charge all winter long if you do
as Robert on AZURA explained. Did i suggest you do it that way Robert?  If
they don’t hold charge you can probably look forward to buying new
batteries very soon. Consider it a test on your batteries: works every time
but dont drop by occaisionaly during winter storage to charge them if you
want a reliable test

On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 5:19 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would not put a solar panel without a controller, even if it puts only 1
> A.
>
> Why? I murdered two batteries this way. My panel was 15 W, so hardly tons
> of current, but each battery lasted just about a season. I thought that
> spending extra $50 for a controller was a waste of money. I blamed the
> batteries, but I learned since.
>
> Marek
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Len Mitchell
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2018 12:04
> To: CNC List 
> Cc: Len Mitchell 
> Subject: Stus-List Winter battery maintenance.
>
> Not sure why no one has talked about a solar panel to keep batteries
> topped up! Or did I miss something? The price just keeps getting lower and
> they work well. Mine are always up and the boat is covered in canvas plus
> snow. A small inexpensive panel will deliver 2 amps or less in the daylight
> and won’t even require a controller at that charge rate. If your batteries
> are being discharged or they aren’t strong enough, they can freeze. Check
> specific gravity and electrolyte level yes!
> Len
>
> Sent from my iPad
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>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Landfill series

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Maybe 1 has ended up in a landfill, i believe some other C&C designs have
ended up there too lol

On Sat, Dec 1, 2018 at 4:13 PM WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just poking you...I own a 36...i think phrf is near or identical to
> 35mk1...at least in lake Michigan
> Bill Walker CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi.
>
> Bill Walker
> --
> On Saturday, December 1, 2018 Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> I didn't think so. The 36 that I was on is a very nice boat to sail,
> as you expect of a C&C.
>
> And there isn't one listed on Stu's site.
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/brochuresndx.htm
>
> Anyone with a brochure out there?
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>
>
> At 11:37 AM 12/1/2018, you wrote:
>
> >So Russ,
> > Is the 36 considered a landfill series?
> >
> >Bill Walker
> >_
>
>
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
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