Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info!

Marc.

> On Apr 13, 2019, at 11:48 AM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Marc
> 
> Do what Dennis said get the AWL grip card and match the color.  Awl grip has  
> more than one red.  Fireball is red and after wiping out a bell buoy in the 
> fog (GPS can be very accurate) the person  who did AWL grip got the wrong red 
> and had to re-apply the red.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball C 35 Mk2
> Bristol RI
> 
> 
>> On 4/13/2019 11:03 AM, Marc Boyd via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thats a very good idea! Thanks for the tip :-)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> marc.
>> 
>>> On Apr 8, 2019, at 1:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Get a color sample card from Awlgrip. The samples have a hole in the middle 
>>> of each color. Hold the card against the hull and peek through the hole. 
>>> 
>>> Dennis C. 
>>> Touché 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Apr 8, 2019, at 2:38 PM, Marc Boyd via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
 I'd be really interested in finding out the colour code for my newly 
 acquired '73 33' :-) She is Red. Any help, advice or direction would be 
 greatly appreciated.
 
 Regards,
 
 marc.
 
 
> On Mon, Apr 8, 2019 at 4:05 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Ken
> 
> This was addressed a while (years?) back on this list.  We also have the 
> smoke white.  White base then so many drops of brown, yellow and red as I 
> recall.  When I get a moment will see if I can find it in my records
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken 
> Heaton via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2019 8:26 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: Ken Heaton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gelcoat color
> 
>  
> 
> The most common deck colour by far was "Smoke White".  There were a few 
> "Neptunus White" and a very few were actually "Pure White or "White".
> 
>  
> 
> Renting the swatch book as Dennis suggests is a very good idea I'd think.
> 
>  
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> On Sun, 7 Apr 2019 at 19:25, Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looking for input on original gelcoat color name/number for our venerable 
> C
> 
> My 41 is what I thought was white (but as my wife can attest, my color 
> vision leave much to be desired) however, as I put a spot of base white 
> on a repair, it is way off.
> 
> Does anyone know what color I'm trying to match?  I get the 35 years of 
> elements taking their toll, but the gelcoat is pretty thick on these 
> boats, and I may sand out some of the patina which will put me closer to 
> the original color.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
>  
> 
> Chuck
> 
>  
> 
> Chuck Borge
> 
> Tenacious C
> 
> Somerset, MA
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 

Stus-List Folding prop vs feathering

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I hauled Rebecca Leah this past weekend to install new thru hull transducers. 
Been up grading my electronics. I noticed that my prop has some serious pitting 
and loose blades. I currently have a feathering prop. My plan is to do some 
extensive blue water cruising in the near future. So my question is which is 
better, a geared folding prop or stick with a new or rebuild my current 
feathering one? Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

When I brought Sweet into Canada from the Seattle 
area there was GST @ 7% to pay but no import duty.


The GST is applicable to almost everything once a 
person's little exemption limit is reached.


The import duty was waived due to NAFTA being in 
place and that year (2003) the C head office was in the USA.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1



At 10:14 AM 4/14/2019, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_154E_01D4F2C4.06F3F4B0"
Content-language: en-us

It seems I remember some discussion years ago 
about the Tax consequences of a C being 
reduced when a Canadian Made  C was returned from USA to Canada,
Does anyone know if the GST or whatever the 
taxes there are affected or reduced?



Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 
your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 35-1 rudder shaft info

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just some info to file away. 

I pulled Touché’s quadrant to flip it over and recorded some measurements with 
calipers.  The shaft measured 1.875” diameter except where the quadrant and 
upper bearing are. Those two places measured 1.500 inches. 

The quadrant did have a key. 

I took pictures of the quadrant and the collar that sits atop the rudder tube. 
I will include those in my documentation of the rudder stop bulkhead install 
and steering system refurbishment. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

The standard was that boats smaller than 35 had solid glass hulls.
35 and up has balsa, but it is faded out about six to eight inches from 
centerline.
Rob Ball




[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

No wonder you have green water on the deck. Your boat is sitting in 
green water !


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1983 Westerbeke 27 glow plugs

[Morgan Ellis via CnC-List]

I have sourced them at Napa, for my M3-20, at a reasonable price. If I get
back down to the yard today, I will post the make and model that I have.

Morgan

On Sun, Apr 14, 2019, 12:33 John Christopher via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Two of the 2 glow plugs on my 1983 weaterbeke 27 are faulty. I have
> decided to change all of them, but when looking online at westerbeke
> prices, I guessing there are better options.Changing them out seems
> straightforward enough.
>
> Seeking advice on what brand to buy?
>
> /John
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Russ - no worries, I'm not obsessing about it. Rather, I am just trying to
learn when I encounter things I don't quite understand or which don't seem
right. Whether I get this boat or not, the C 35 will remain on my short
list, so any knowledge I can gain will be worthwhile. I continue to look at
other boats, like the Niagara 35 last week, but most of them have been
eliminated for various reasons. A few are still on the maybe list (Ericson
30+ for around 20K is one). Yes, I could just settle for a 27-30' boat for
around $10K, which is the place I was in a few months ago, but after
spending nearly a year on this search, I am less inclined to repeat the
process as we outgrow the smaller boat. That said, at least we can be
sailing while still keeping eyes open for the right boat, so if nothing
materializes soon, we'll probably go with something like an Ericson 29 for
around $10K. I've ruled out the Catalina 27 (decks are too narrow going
forward), but might consider other 27s (C, Ericson, etc); I just haven't
been aboard many to know if they are suitable.
There is a decent looking C 29 in Ladysmith with a for sale sign on it,
but the owner doesn't return calls, so I assume it's no longer for sale.

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 9:22 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Shawn, Buddy, Bro.
>
> You need to stop obsessing about this boat.
>
> Looking at boats for less than 20,000 and expecting 50,000 dollar results.
> Give it up.
>
> This toe rail thing is a non-issue. *Sweet *had a discontinuous toe rail
> from the factory. There is a joint just abaft the shrouds. The toe rail
> does nothing for hull integrity. It is there for hull/deck bolting and a
> nice place to hang gear from. If you let the puddles sit long enough to go
> green in the winter it simply means you don't love your boat enough. This
> fix is easy enough with Devcon, some aluminum flatbar and a bit of black
> paint, if you wish.
>
> The prop shaft overhang is ridiculous (as best described previuosly), so
> cut it down to a reasonable length for a few hundred bucks or use it until
> repairs are needed and then deal with it.
>
> As a friend I suggest you start seriously looking at a much smaller boat
> and move up in size a bit later.
>
> Kindest regards, Russ
> ex-* Sweet*, 35 mk-1
>
>
> At 06:45 PM 4/13/2019, you wrote:
>
> Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to
> inspect the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner
> cut a notch in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both
> inside and outside to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some
> boats where this is part of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds
> reasonable, except it will become a green slimy worm after a while if not
> cleaned... :)
>
> On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two
> different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical
> except the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per
> foot to clip snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing
> is it?  It seems to me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that
> nicks the deck and the hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe
> Rail on the boat wile assembling it.
>
> Have another look.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it
> appears that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided
> to cut a small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw
> or recip. saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly
> below, and it also exposed the hull-deck joint edge.Â
>
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to
> drain.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to 

Stus-List Re-Patriating Canadian born C’s

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

It seems I remember some discussion years ago about the Tax consequences of a 
C being reduced when a Canadian Made  C was returned from USA to Canada,

Does anyone know if the GST or whatever the taxes there are affected or reduced?

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Solid fiberglass hull.  Install it ahead of the keel in a way to keep it as 
vertical as possible.

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Morris via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2019 11:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Subject: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

I’m installing a new thru-hull depth transducer on our 1975 C 30 Mk1, which 
requires cutting a hole for it. Dumb question I’m sure, but is the hull cored 
or solid? Any suggestions on where to locate the transducer on this model?


David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/


[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
  Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 1983 Westerbeke 27 glow plugs

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Two of the 2 glow plugs on my 1983 weaterbeke 27 are faulty. I have decided to 
change all of them, but when looking online at westerbeke prices, I guessing 
there are better options.Changing them out seems straightforward enough.

Seeking advice on what brand to buy?  

/John___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The hull down toward the keel is solid. I have my depth transducer in the
compartment under the forward dinette seat, near the mast. Also speed.

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Morris via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2019 11:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Subject: Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

 

I'm installing a new thru-hull depth transducer on our 1975 C 30 Mk1,
which requires cutting a hole for it. Dumb question I'm sure, but is the
hull cored or solid? Any suggestions on where to locate the transducer on
this model?

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com  
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avast.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Depth Transducer Installation

[David Morris via CnC-List]

I'm installing a new thru-hull depth transducer on our 1975 C 30 Mk1,
which requires cutting a hole for it. Dumb question I'm sure, but is the
hull cored or solid? Any suggestions on where to locate the transducer on
this model?

 

 

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
427 Division Street, Kingston, ON Canada K7K 4A8
Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada 
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/

 



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - wick design

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

What some may not appreciate about a wick is that you need to make sure the
wick contacts the water on the deck.  The flange of the toe rail is 1/4 or
so inch thick.  Look closely at this pic:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1W_jqkoA760JhFqdWZ4Mt8dUvqtS17VTd

I have a few layers of wick stitched together under the top layer that is
perpendicular through the toe rail.  This lets the wick contact the deck
and gather the water to route it to the part that goes through the toe rail
and hangs over the side.

This wick was a prototype I made several months ago.  The design worked
well but the materials didn't hold up well exposed to the sun.

A piece of sponge with a cut out for  the toe rail flange would work well.
A piece of line with a knot would work.

No matter what wick you use, you'll still have some "green stuff" at the
low spot.  I don't mind the green stuff.  What I don't care for is the
streaks down the hull.  :(

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




>  A piece of unused halyard or sheet laid in the low spot and then run
> through one of the holes in the rail will wick almost all the water out.
> Dennis’ webbing is more elegant.
>
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I use a wick – yes it becomes pretty ugly after a while. For most of our boats, 
the toe rails are in two pieces – each around 15 feet long (on my 30 at least). 
There is a seam where they meet, but it is not at the lowest place on the deck. 
A piece of unused halyard or sheet laid in the low spot and then run through 
one of the holes in the rail will wick almost all the water out. Dennis’ 
webbing is more elegant.

 

After having part of my rail off the boat, I don’t see why you could not put a 
hole in the rail – above the flat part to let the excess water out.

 

Gary Nylander - 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2019 9:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

 

Wow, that is interesting about the saw cut on the deck. I will have to inspect 
the photo I took; it sure looked amateurish to me. I would sooner cut a notch 
in the glass below the toe rail, then epoxy it smooth both inside and outside 
to allow water to drain under the rail. I've seen some boats where this is part 
of the deck/hull mold. The wick idea also sounds reasonable, except it will 
become a green slimy worm after a while if not cleaned... :)

 

On Sat, Apr 13, 2019 at 2:36 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

On my friend's C Mk.1 there is a joint in the Toe Rail extrusion as two 
different toe rails are used.  The two different Toe Rails are identical except 
the forward section has twice as many of the holes in the side per foot to clip 
snatch block, etc. to.  That joint isn't what you're seeing is it?  It seems to 
me on my friend's Mk.1 there is that same saw cut that nicks the deck and the 
hull deck joint edge, almost like they cut the Toe Rail on the boat wile 
assembling it.

 

Have another look.

 

Ken H.

 

On Sat, 13 Apr 2019 at 17:22, Shawn Wright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 

 

While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly hack 
job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe rail or 
similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to drain.

 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




 

-- 

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray