Re: Stus-List Speed & depth transducers

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have not heard of anyone using Sikaflex.  I would recommend G-Flex and
follow the prescription in the link below.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, May 2, 2019, 10:59 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I spent the day wet-sanding the bottom of Callisto and she is nearly ready
> for a coat of paint. I also cut out the old keel joint rubbery sealant, in
> preparation for some Sikaflex 291. I plan to scrub the gap a bit more and
> clean with lacquer thinner before letting dry.
>
> All the through hulls look good, bronze with marelon valves.
>
> I have two depth transducers, one for a Standard Horizon DS30, and the
> other for a Garmin 140 Fishfinder, both working. There is a plug for the
> old B&G speed sensor, but I was pleased to find another newer speed sensor
> in good shape, it appears to be a Garmin like this:
>
> http://www.airmar.com/productdescription.html?id=103
>
> The specs show either a NMEA 2000 or analog cable, but I haven't traced it
> yet to determine which one I have. Of course, the B&G H1000 system I have
> only does NMEA 0183, so I will need a signal converter, I think. I'm
> hesitant to spend any money on the old B&G system until I verify the pieces
> I have actually work though.
>
> Also, the plug for the old B&G sensor is very thin plastic, about 2mm
> thick. I'm thinking of filling the hollow plug with epoxy so it doesn't
> sink the boat if it ever cracks. Or maybe just find a better one? It's 1
> 3/4" diameter.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List Black goo in keel joint - 35-2

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You're not wasting any time are you?!  Forgive me if you already described
this boat defect but how bad was the keel joint that you are already
tearing in to it?  Most people live with a smile for a few years, then
tighten the bolts and wait another few years, then if needed perform some
type of additional remediation.

You didn't describe if the goo was water soluble.  All types of biological
growth and slime occurs when water gets trapped and bilges are subject to
collect lost of various liquids.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, May 3, 2019, 9:46 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While cutting out the rubbery sealant between the keel joint on my 35-2, I
> came across a spot on the starboard side, about 14-16" from the aft end of
> the keel, where some black goo came out. It has a consistency of grease,
> with no obvious smell.
>
> Any idea what this might be? Perhaps some water in the cavity which
> prevented the sealant from curing in that area? It only appears in a small
> 3-4" long section.
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Pettit

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I used Perfection on my cove stripe 5 years ago, I just looked at it in the
yard today after pulling it out of the water for the first time in 5 years
and I still have... Perfection.

When I applied it 5 years ago like you, I picked the wrong time of day  /
got direct sunlight and I had to sand it  / do it over.  That was also
trying to roll / tip / I wasn't that good at it.

Long story short I had to sand / do it over a few times (I'm a bit OCD too)
but 3 coats later I did it first thing on a cooler morning, I brushed /
tipped it with a really soft bristle, didn't over brush it, Eureka!  Mirror
finish where you see your reflection with color..  5 years later and being
submerged while sailing / getting hit by waves, etc.   Still a perfect
mirror finish.  No need to do anything to it.

I'm very partial to Perfection now.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Mast conduit plastic cover, C&C 35 Mark 3

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Be careful with going too large on the wiring 
conduit. If the wiring can move too much you will 
get this really annoying slapping sound when the 
mast moves around a bit, in an otherwise peaceful anchorage.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet 35 mk-1

At 05:54 AM 5/3/2019, you wrote:
Most masts have a wiring conduit riveted to the 
leading edge.  When I had the mast rebuilt last 
year the yard found black polybutyl.  They 
stated that the polybutyl was a weak-ish 
solution that could pull out of the rivets and 
recommended replacing it with pvc.  They 
fashioned regular pieces of plumbing white pvc 
and glued unions to create the appropriate length.


Due to the added wires they ended up having to 
add an additional partial length conduit for the radar wires.


I would go with the max diameter that will fit 
between the leading edge of the mast and the spreader ribs.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



On Fri, May 3, 2019, 7:47 AM Elizabeth McDonald 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Not sure if all the masts on the 1986 C&C 
35’s, have a plastic insert.  This plastic 
cover covers the conduit wiring, which runs most 
of the length on the leading edge of the 
mast.  The plastic cover has deteriorated over 
time and is in need of replacement. Â Any owners 
who  have had this replacement issue, I would appreciate your input.


Liz McDonaldÂ
S/V Autumn Sky
C&C 35 Mark 3
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Stus-List Black goo in keel joint - 35-2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

While cutting out the rubbery sealant between the keel joint on my 35-2, I
came across a spot on the starboard side, about 14-16" from the aft end of
the keel, where some black goo came out. It has a consistency of grease,
with no obvious smell.

Any idea what this might be? Perhaps some water in the cavity which
prevented the sealant from curing in that area? It only appears in a small
3-4" long section.

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Petit

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Mike,
   I have done my cockpit sole with kiwi grip..it is easy to reduce the peaks 
and valleys that great non skid by pressure used on the roller...i used the 
roller provided by kiwi grip and it worked out great...practice on a piece of 
plywood if you are concerned.
BTW, kiwi can be tinted by local home depot or lowes...i got paint chips, 
matched and they did it for free.
Bill Walker
CnC 36

Bill Walker 
On Friday, May 3, 2019 Headgorilla via CnC-List  wrote:
*The PO of my boat had 2 thick coats of Interdeck (interlux) poured over the 
entire deck of the boat rail to rail.
While it looked uniform and safe to walk on it seemed to be chalky. It seemed 
as if it was not holding up well in the Sun and was deteriorating faster than 
anything I had seen.
After my second season with my boat I spent the winter stripping it all off as 
it was leaving chalky streaking down my red hull :(
I am in the process of redoing it with Interlux Brightsides White for the gloss 
and Kiwi-Grip for the non-skid, my one dilemma will be lessening the roughness 
of the kiwi grip texture which I have read about and seen.
I am going to be experimenting with the kiwi grip on a board first with a 
couple of different methods to see if I can tone down the non skid.
I will report back on how that turns out when I do it.
Mike DolanSouthold NYSkywalker1979 34'

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Re: Stus-List Mast conduit plastic cover, C&C 35 Mark 3

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Most masts have a wiring conduit riveted to the leading edge.  When I had
the mast rebuilt last year the yard found black polybutyl.  They stated
that the polybutyl was a weak-ish solution that could pull out of the
rivets and recommended replacing it with pvc.  They fashioned regular
pieces of plumbing white pvc and glued unions to create the appropriate
length.

Due to the added wires they ended up having to add an additional partial
length conduit for the radar wires.

I would go with the max diameter that will fit between the leading edge of
the mast and the spreader ribs.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, May 3, 2019, 7:47 AM Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not sure if all the masts on the 1986 C&C 35’s, have a plastic insert.
> This plastic cover covers the conduit wiring, which runs most of the length
> on the leading edge of the mast.  The plastic cover has deteriorated over
> time and is in need of replacement.  Any owners who  have had this
> replacement issue, I would appreciate your input.
>
> Liz McDonald
> S/V Autumn Sky
> C&C 35 Mark 3
>
> Get Outlook for iOS 
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Petit

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I think the agressiveness is controlled by which roller cover you use and how 
many coats.   Practicing on a board before doing the boat sounds like the best 
approach.  


If I remember right Kiwi Grip is water based so no mixing and little cleanup.


> On May 3, 2019 at 7:30 AM Headgorilla via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> *The PO of my boat had 2 thick coats of Interdeck (interlux) poured over 
> the entire deck of the boat rail to rail.
> 
> While it looked uniform and safe to walk on it seemed to be chalky. It 
> seemed as if it was not holding up well in the Sun and was deteriorating 
> faster than anything I had seen.
> 
> After my second season with my boat I spent the winter stripping it all 
> off as it was leaving chalky streaking down my red hull :(
> 
> I am in the process of redoing it with Interlux Brightsides White for the 
> gloss and Kiwi-Grip for the non-skid, my one dilemma will be lessening the 
> roughness of the kiwi grip texture which I have read about and seen.
> 
> I am going to be experimenting with the kiwi grip on a board first with a 
> couple of different methods to see if I can tone down the non skid.
> 
> I will report back on how that turns out when I do it.
> 
> Mike Dolan
> Southold NY
> Skywalker
> 1979 34'
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Stus-List Mast conduit plastic cover, C&C 35 Mark 3

[Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List]

Not sure if all the masts on the 1986 C&C 35’s, have a plastic insert.  This 
plastic cover covers the conduit wiring, which runs most of the length on the 
leading edge of the mast.  The plastic cover has deteriorated over time and is 
in need of replacement.  Any owners who  have had this replacement issue, I 
would appreciate your input.

Liz McDonald
S/V Autumn Sky
C&C 35 Mark 3

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Stus-List Painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Petit

[Headgorilla via CnC-List]

*The PO of my boat had 2 thick coats of Interdeck (interlux) poured over the 
entire deck of the boat rail to rail.
While it looked uniform and safe to walk on it seemed to be chalky. It seemed 
as if it was not holding up well in the Sun and was deteriorating faster than 
anything I had seen.
After my second season with my boat I spent the winter stripping it all off as 
it was leaving chalky streaking down my red hull :(
I am in the process of redoing it with Interlux Brightsides White for the gloss 
and Kiwi-Grip for the non-skid, my one dilemma will be lessening the roughness 
of the kiwi grip texture which I have read about and seen.
I am going to be experimenting with the kiwi grip on a board first with a 
couple of different methods to see if I can tone down the non skid.
I will report back on how that turns out when I do it.
Mike DolanSouthold NYSkywalker1979 34'

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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