Stus-List Stuffing box packing.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

1984 29-2 stuffing box needs stuffing. What sizes should I get ? Is 1/4 the 
approximate size?Bev___

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Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I know Gary!  You only had to read it!  Imagine my difficulty, I had to
write it!

Josh

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 7:23 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Arrgh!  My brain hurts.  
> Gary
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 6:54 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Edd,
>>
>> As I recall you are still on a mooring right?  You're using the motor and
>> solar to keep the batteries "charged"?  If so then it is unlikely that you
>> are ever really getting all the way 100% charged.
>>
>> As others have mentioned the only good way to use voltage as a measure of
>> the state of charge is by reading the NO LOAD (and No CHARGE) voltage.
>> Seems simple enough But it's not.  There is also a  effect known as
>> surface charge.  This is the residual voltage that is greater than 12.7v
>> read after applying a charge.  Immediately after charge you'll see 14.7v
>> and slowly dropping over 24 hours until it stabilizes at 12.7v.  The
>> surface charge can  represent ~1% of battery capacity.  To remove the
>> surface charge you need to apply a relatively small load.  In your case
>> 4.5A-hrsso 4.5 amps for 1 hour...or just let the battery sit
>> disconnected for ~24 hours.  With the surface charge removed the volts
>> should read 12.7v and every 0.1v below 12.7v is roughly equal to 10%
>> capacity.
>>
>> So during charge there are 3 different stages of charge (bulk,
>> acceptance, float).  You'll see volts climb steadily through the first
>> stage finally stopping at ~14.7v.  At the end of the first stage a lay
>> person might casually look at the battery voltage, see 14.7v, and think
>> that the battery is fully charged.  The reality is that it is only about
>> 80% charged.  Most battery monitors like your blue sea are kinda dumb.  At
>> best they measure A-Hr in VS A-Hr out.  Some reset to 100% charged when
>> 14.7v is reached.  Some keep accumulating A-Hrs from a pseudo-float while
>> actually still in the acceptance (2nd stage).  Some can be reset to 100%
>> manually.  Some need to be reset.  I say pseudo-float since charge sources
>> like solar can be sized insufficiently to actually change the chemical
>> state of charge to get the batteries out of the 2nd stage and sometimes not
>> even out of the 1st stage.  So while a charge current IS being applied (and
>> measured/accumulated by the battery monitor) the state of ACTUAL state of
>> charge is not actually changing.  I believe this is probably what is
>> happening in your case.
>>
>> Summary of stages of charge:
>> 1st = BULK = constant current and charger max current with steadily
>> climbing voltage up to ~14.7v
>> 2nd = ACCEPTANCE = constant voltage at ~14.7v with current steadily
>> lowering from max to ~2 amps.
>> 3rd = voltage maintained at ~13.6v.  If the current required to maintain
>> 13.6v goes above ~2amps then the charger will switch back to stage 2 mode a
>> d you'll see volts jump up to ~14.7.
>>
>> I know you asked for simple... Sorry.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little
>>> perplexed about the readings I am seeing.
>>>
>>> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor
>>> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at
>>> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around
>>> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for
>>> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was
>>> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.
>>>
>>> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really
>>> the one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching
>>> things off.
>>>
>>> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage
>>> Aces or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too
>>> much Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
>>>
>>> - Confused on City Island
>>>
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Edd
>>>
>>> ---—-
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>>> ---
>>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>>> ---
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent via iPhone X
>>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 

Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Arrgh!  My brain hurts.  
Gary
~~~_/)~~



On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 6:54 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd,
>
> As I recall you are still on a mooring right?  You're using the motor and
> solar to keep the batteries "charged"?  If so then it is unlikely that you
> are ever really getting all the way 100% charged.
>
> As others have mentioned the only good way to use voltage as a measure of
> the state of charge is by reading the NO LOAD (and No CHARGE) voltage.
> Seems simple enough But it's not.  There is also a  effect known as
> surface charge.  This is the residual voltage that is greater than 12.7v
> read after applying a charge.  Immediately after charge you'll see 14.7v
> and slowly dropping over 24 hours until it stabilizes at 12.7v.  The
> surface charge can  represent ~1% of battery capacity.  To remove the
> surface charge you need to apply a relatively small load.  In your case
> 4.5A-hrsso 4.5 amps for 1 hour...or just let the battery sit
> disconnected for ~24 hours.  With the surface charge removed the volts
> should read 12.7v and every 0.1v below 12.7v is roughly equal to 10%
> capacity.
>
> So during charge there are 3 different stages of charge (bulk, acceptance,
> float).  You'll see volts climb steadily through the first stage finally
> stopping at ~14.7v.  At the end of the first stage a lay person might
> casually look at the battery voltage, see 14.7v, and think that the battery
> is fully charged.  The reality is that it is only about 80% charged.  Most
> battery monitors like your blue sea are kinda dumb.  At best they measure
> A-Hr in VS A-Hr out.  Some reset to 100% charged when 14.7v is reached.
> Some keep accumulating A-Hrs from a pseudo-float while actually still in
> the acceptance (2nd stage).  Some can be reset to 100% manually.  Some need
> to be reset.  I say pseudo-float since charge sources like solar can be
> sized insufficiently to actually change the chemical state of charge to get
> the batteries out of the 2nd stage and sometimes not even out of the 1st
> stage.  So while a charge current IS being applied (and
> measured/accumulated by the battery monitor) the state of ACTUAL state of
> charge is not actually changing.  I believe this is probably what is
> happening in your case.
>
> Summary of stages of charge:
> 1st = BULK = constant current and charger max current with steadily
> climbing voltage up to ~14.7v
> 2nd = ACCEPTANCE = constant voltage at ~14.7v with current steadily
> lowering from max to ~2 amps.
> 3rd = voltage maintained at ~13.6v.  If the current required to maintain
> 13.6v goes above ~2amps then the charger will switch back to stage 2 mode a
> d you'll see volts jump up to ~14.7.
>
> I know you asked for simple... Sorry.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little
>> perplexed about the readings I am seeing.
>>
>> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor
>> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at
>> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around
>> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for
>> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was
>> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.
>>
>> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really
>> the one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching
>> things off.
>>
>> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces
>> or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much
>> Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
>>
>> - Confused on City Island
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ---—-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>>
>>
>> Sent via iPhone X
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 

Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

As I recall you are still on a mooring right?  You're using the motor and
solar to keep the batteries "charged"?  If so then it is unlikely that you
are ever really getting all the way 100% charged.

As others have mentioned the only good way to use voltage as a measure of
the state of charge is by reading the NO LOAD (and No CHARGE) voltage.
Seems simple enough But it's not.  There is also a  effect known as
surface charge.  This is the residual voltage that is greater than 12.7v
read after applying a charge.  Immediately after charge you'll see 14.7v
and slowly dropping over 24 hours until it stabilizes at 12.7v.  The
surface charge can  represent ~1% of battery capacity.  To remove the
surface charge you need to apply a relatively small load.  In your case
4.5A-hrsso 4.5 amps for 1 hour...or just let the battery sit
disconnected for ~24 hours.  With the surface charge removed the volts
should read 12.7v and every 0.1v below 12.7v is roughly equal to 10%
capacity.

So during charge there are 3 different stages of charge (bulk, acceptance,
float).  You'll see volts climb steadily through the first stage finally
stopping at ~14.7v.  At the end of the first stage a lay person might
casually look at the battery voltage, see 14.7v, and think that the battery
is fully charged.  The reality is that it is only about 80% charged.  Most
battery monitors like your blue sea are kinda dumb.  At best they measure
A-Hr in VS A-Hr out.  Some reset to 100% charged when 14.7v is reached.
Some keep accumulating A-Hrs from a pseudo-float while actually still in
the acceptance (2nd stage).  Some can be reset to 100% manually.  Some need
to be reset.  I say pseudo-float since charge sources like solar can be
sized insufficiently to actually change the chemical state of charge to get
the batteries out of the 2nd stage and sometimes not even out of the 1st
stage.  So while a charge current IS being applied (and
measured/accumulated by the battery monitor) the state of ACTUAL state of
charge is not actually changing.  I believe this is probably what is
happening in your case.

Summary of stages of charge:
1st = BULK = constant current and charger max current with steadily
climbing voltage up to ~14.7v
2nd = ACCEPTANCE = constant voltage at ~14.7v with current steadily
lowering from max to ~2 amps.
3rd = voltage maintained at ~13.6v.  If the current required to maintain
13.6v goes above ~2amps then the charger will switch back to stage 2 mode a
d you'll see volts jump up to ~14.7.

I know you asked for simple... Sorry.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little
> perplexed about the readings I am seeing.
>
> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor
> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at
> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around
> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for
> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was
> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.
>
> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really the
> one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching things
> off.
>
> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces
> or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much
> Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
>
> - Confused on City Island
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---—-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
>
>
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Not sure what youre asking but no way did the power drain frim the dources
you report should cause a problem. Dont make new problems we got enough
with these great older C boats

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 2:08 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Edd,
> The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of a
> lead-acid battery when the battery has been without load (or charge) for
> several hours.  Otherwise, the voltage is pretty much meaningless.  Many
> devices measure the state of charge by noting the difference between the
> number of amp-hours drawn and the number of amp-hours charged into the
> battery.  It is a more accurate indication of the state of charge but has
> it's limitations as well.  Any inaccuracy in measuring the current into or
> out of the battery will accumulate over time requiring the device to be
> "re-synchronized".
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little
>> perplexed about the readings I am seeing.
>>
>> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor
>> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at
>> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around
>> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for
>> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was
>> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.
>>
>> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really
>> the one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching
>> things off.
>>
>> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces
>> or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much
>> Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
>>
>> - Confused on City Island
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ---—-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>>
>>
>> Sent via iPhone X
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 29 MK I stuck halyard

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Sorry man you and your crew gonna have to figure that out. If me i would
not even ask here for that

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 1:32 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Two possibilities:
>
> 1. It's possible that any loose wiring near the sheave at the top of the
> mast is getting pulled into the sheave. It happened to me, and I had to
> splice all the wires at the masthead. Try pulling the halyard back down.
> Even a little will help. Then tension the wiring from where it exits the
> mast (probably inside the cabin where the mast enters the cabin). Finally
> try hoisting again.
>
> 2. If your halyard is twisted around another halyard, it won't be able to
> move. Try loosening any other halyards, and then try to move the jib
> halyard up or down.
>
> If neither of those suggestions work, you'll have to go up the mast to see
> where the problem lies, or drop the mast.
>
> In either case, don't try to force it. You could make matters worse. It
> shouldn't take much more force than you usually apply, to resolve the
> problem.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 8:11 AM Paul via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello listers,
>> One of my 2 wire-rope jib halyards got “stuck” doing a pre-start sail
>> change before a race last week. Wind was 18 knots and gusting so the sail
>> was flogging around a bit. Water was pretty flat due to offshore breeze so
>> not a lot of pitch/roll action of the boat.
>> Most of the wire is exposed (shackle is about 4 feet off the deck). I
>> initially thought that the wire might have jumped the sheave but a trip to
>> the masthead revealed nothing - sheave turns smoothly and cable is not
>> fouled at the mast head fitting.
>> Am unable to budge the halyard up or down, but there is a tiny amount of
>> play when changing direction of pull (maybe an inch or so).
>> A cable conduit was installed 2 years ago but there have not been any
>> issues to date relative to the running of internal halyards.
>>
>> Currently using the spin halyard as an alternative (the other jib halyard
>> runs through a restrainer for the furler swivel and the luff on the #1 is
>> too long to fit the furling  gear.
>>
>> I’m wondering if the catch is happening near the top where the
>> wire-to-rope transition is.  Perhaps at the upper shroud toggles?
>>
>> Has anyone encountered this before and resolved without pulling the mast?
>>
>> Add put a line on the shackle and run it through a snatch block at the
>> stem head fitting and back to a halyard winch and give it slightly stronger
>> pull than just arm strength?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Paul D. Saxton
>> C 29 MK I
>> Boomerang
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwIGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=kFGbDTskuo3CUyjQsyoLbzdKvdITI9i8SpGMtphQkLg=9H11gHFVrum0BPb-wmMvYW9pNRqMMyGrGm3i7VoW8ig=
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Olivier Chatot via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I agree with Marek and Gary about the voltage reading not being a reliable
indication of the state of charge. Here's an example from my boat. At noon
my battery bank is normally back to full charge and the voltmeter shows
14.01V, cool. A second later the fridge starts and the voltage drops to
close to 13V.

Best,
Olivier

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 13:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd,
> to add to what Gary said...
>
> any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is tricky,
> because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are, what the
> actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over time,
> never up) and at what SoC (state of charge) you started the measurements.
>
> I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how
> much of that is left.
>
> The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6 A
> times “several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah
> battery bank, even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% SoC
> you should be at 95% (if it was 6 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%).
>
> As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must.
>
> The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery at
> the given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you were
> watching the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage meter
> would show some number much lower than 12 V (even if the SoC was almost
> 100%).
>
> I am not sure if it helped you much, though
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>
> *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 13:08
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours
>
> Hi Edd,
> The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of a
> lead-acid battery when the battery has been without load (or charge) for
> several hours.  Otherwise, the voltage is pretty much meaningless.  Many
> devices measure the state of charge by noting the difference between the
> number of amp-hours drawn and the number of amp-hours charged into the
> battery.  It is a more accurate indication of the state of charge but has
> it's limitations as well.  Any inaccuracy in measuring the current into or
> out of the battery will accumulate over time requiring the device to be
> "re-synchronized".
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little
>> perplexed about the readings I am seeing.
>>
>> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor
>> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at
>> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around
>> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for
>> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was
>> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.
>>
>> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really
>> the one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching
>> things off.
>>
>> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces
>> or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much
>> Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
>>
>> - Confused on City Island
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>> ---—-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>> www.StarshipSailing.com
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>>
>>
>> Sent via iPhone X
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Edd,
to add to what Gary said...

any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is tricky, 
because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are, what the 
actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over time, never 
up) and at what SoC (state of charge) you started the measurements.

I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how much of 
that is left.

The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6 A times 
“several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah battery bank, 
even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% SoC you should be at 
95% (if it was 6 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%).

As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must.

The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery at the 
given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you were watching 
the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage meter would show 
some number much lower than 12 V (even if the SoC was almost 100%).

I am not sure if it helped you much, though

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 5, 2019 13:08
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

Hi Edd,
The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of a 
lead-acid battery when the battery has been without load (or charge) for 
several hours.  Otherwise, the voltage is pretty much meaningless.  Many 
devices measure the state of charge by noting the difference between the number 
of amp-hours drawn and the number of amp-hours charged into the battery.  It is 
a more accurate indication of the state of charge but has it's limitations as 
well.  Any inaccuracy in measuring the current into or out of the battery will 
accumulate over time requiring the device to be "re-synchronized".

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Listers,

Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little perplexed 
about the readings I am seeing.

Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor (thanks to 
fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at the display. 
Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around 6 amps between 
using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for several hours — with the 
display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was showing 12.38, which I 
understand to mean closer to 75%.

Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really the one 
to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching things off.

Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces or 
Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much 
Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)

- Confused on City Island

All the best,

Edd

---—-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---


Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,
The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of charge of a
lead-acid battery when the battery has been without load (or charge) for
several hours.  Otherwise, the voltage is pretty much meaningless.  Many
devices measure the state of charge by noting the difference between the
number of amp-hours drawn and the number of amp-hours charged into the
battery.  It is a more accurate indication of the state of charge but has
it's limitations as well.  Any inaccuracy in measuring the current into or
out of the battery will accumulate over time requiring the device to be
"re-synchronized".

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 12:23 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little
> perplexed about the readings I am seeing.
>
> Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor
> (thanks to fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at
> the display. Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around
> 6 amps between using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for
> several hours — with the display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was
> showing 12.38, which I understand to mean closer to 75%.
>
> Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really the
> one to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching things
> off.
>
> Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces
> or Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much
> Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)
>
> - Confused on City Island
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---—-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
>
>
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 29 MK I stuck halyard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Two possibilities:

1. It's possible that any loose wiring near the sheave at the top of the
mast is getting pulled into the sheave. It happened to me, and I had to
splice all the wires at the masthead. Try pulling the halyard back down.
Even a little will help. Then tension the wiring from where it exits the
mast (probably inside the cabin where the mast enters the cabin). Finally
try hoisting again.

2. If your halyard is twisted around another halyard, it won't be able to
move. Try loosening any other halyards, and then try to move the jib
halyard up or down.

If neither of those suggestions work, you'll have to go up the mast to see
where the problem lies, or drop the mast.

In either case, don't try to force it. You could make matters worse. It
shouldn't take much more force than you usually apply, to resolve the
problem.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 8:11 AM Paul via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello listers,
> One of my 2 wire-rope jib halyards got “stuck” doing a pre-start sail
> change before a race last week. Wind was 18 knots and gusting so the sail
> was flogging around a bit. Water was pretty flat due to offshore breeze so
> not a lot of pitch/roll action of the boat.
> Most of the wire is exposed (shackle is about 4 feet off the deck). I
> initially thought that the wire might have jumped the sheave but a trip to
> the masthead revealed nothing - sheave turns smoothly and cable is not
> fouled at the mast head fitting.
> Am unable to budge the halyard up or down, but there is a tiny amount of
> play when changing direction of pull (maybe an inch or so).
> A cable conduit was installed 2 years ago but there have not been any
> issues to date relative to the running of internal halyards.
>
> Currently using the spin halyard as an alternative (the other jib halyard
> runs through a restrainer for the furler swivel and the luff on the #1 is
> too long to fit the furling  gear.
>
> I’m wondering if the catch is happening near the top where the
> wire-to-rope transition is.  Perhaps at the upper shroud toggles?
>
> Has anyone encountered this before and resolved without pulling the mast?
>
> Add put a line on the shackle and run it through a snatch block at the
> stem head fitting and back to a halyard winch and give it slightly stronger
> pull than just arm strength?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul D. Saxton
> C 29 MK I
> Boomerang
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwIGaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=kFGbDTskuo3CUyjQsyoLbzdKvdITI9i8SpGMtphQkLg=9H11gHFVrum0BPb-wmMvYW9pNRqMMyGrGm3i7VoW8ig=
>
>
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Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Last year, I installed a Blue Sea battery monitor and I’m a little perplexed 
about the readings I am seeing. 

Last night, before an amazing fireworks display at Hempstead Harbor (thanks to 
fellow Lister Neal Gallagher for the guest mooring), I looked at the display. 
Out of the 450 amp hours in the House bank, we had used around 6 amps between 
using the electric head, cell phone charging, etc. for several hours — with the 
display showing 99% capacity.  But the voltage was showing 12.38, which I 
understand to mean closer to 75%. 

Someone on a YouTube video said that the Voltage reading is not really the one 
to go by, as the voltage will increase when you start switching things off. 

Is that all true? Is what I’m seeing normal? Can one of you Amperage Aces or 
Voltage Vixens explain this to me? (Please keep it simple - way too much 
Romulan Ale and Klingon Blood Wine flowing last night.)

- Confused on City Island

All the best, 

Edd

---—-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---


Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List hatch dog repair

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

My hatch dogs are a mess - again. I think I have replaced them twice at 
least :(


I decided not to pay a lot of money for threaded aluminum and plastic 
knobs, so I ordered these: https://www.mcmaster.com/2434k47  and these: 
https://www.mcmaster.com/5532t35


They fit and will probably last the life of the boat besides for costing 
half as much or less.


Joe

Coquina C 35 MK I


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Stus-List C 29 MK I stuck halyard

[Paul via CnC-List]

Hello listers,
One of my 2 wire-rope jib halyards got “stuck” doing a pre-start sail change 
before a race last week. Wind was 18 knots and gusting so the sail was flogging 
around a bit. Water was pretty flat due to offshore breeze so not a lot of 
pitch/roll action of the boat. 
Most of the wire is exposed (shackle is about 4 feet off the deck). I initially 
thought that the wire might have jumped the sheave but a trip to the masthead 
revealed nothing - sheave turns smoothly and cable is not fouled at the mast 
head fitting. 
Am unable to budge the halyard up or down, but there is a tiny amount of play 
when changing direction of pull (maybe an inch or so). 
A cable conduit was installed 2 years ago but there have not been any issues to 
date relative to the running of internal halyards.  

Currently using the spin halyard as an alternative (the other jib halyard runs 
through a restrainer for the furler swivel and the luff on the #1 is too long 
to fit the furling  gear.

I’m wondering if the catch is happening near the top where the wire-to-rope 
transition is.  Perhaps at the upper shroud toggles?

Has anyone encountered this before and resolved without pulling the mast?

Add put a line on the shackle and run it through a snatch block at the stem 
head fitting and back to a halyard winch and give it slightly stronger pull 
than just arm strength?

Thanks

Paul D. Saxton
C 29 MK I
Boomerang

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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