Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Inverter Question

[Daniel Cormier via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe, I sorted it out. The inverter itself was making the buzzing sound, 
not the fridge compressor. It turns out the inverter works just fine with my AC 
plugs.

Thanks so much,
Dan 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 2:29 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> This could be one of several issues. The first thing is unless you have a 
> true sine wave inverter, your fridge is getting square wave power from the 
> inverter instead of sine wave and that may account for the buzz.
> You can check the voltage from the inverter easily enough and see if it is 
> too low and you can check the waveform with an oscilloscope.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:33 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dan 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Inverter Question
>  
> My inverter is controlled by a Heart Interface 2000 controller. When I 
> disconnect shore power and want to invert AC power, there is an "Invert" 
> button on the contoller that I can press and AC power will feed to the boat's 
> wall plugs. I tested this out for the first time last night and discovered I 
> did indeed gain AC power to the plugs as expected, however my fridge 
> compressor suddenly started making a humming/buzzing sound the second I 
> switched on the plugs. I tried disconnecting power to the fridge but it 
> continued to buzz until the wall plugs were switched off again. This leads me 
> to think it may have to do with grounding? (fridge and wall plugs should or 
> shouldn't share a common ground?) My fridge runs normally when the "invert" 
> button is switched off or on as long as the wall plugs are not activated. I 
> want to use the inverter but I don't want to kill my fridge compressor - Is 
> this buzzing normal? any help?
>  
> Dan
> Breakaweigh I
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 Versions

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Further to what Rob just said, in the case of Creola (formerly  Fast
Forward, Spanker):

Boat Name Previous Names Hull Number Model Keel Draft
Sail # VIN Hull Number # Build File Mold Date Order Date Buid Cert. Date Build
Cert. Name Dealer or Named Owner Ship Date Weight on Waybill Invoice Invoice
Canada $ Hailing Port Location Notes:
Creola Fast Forward, Spanker ZCC37R18A090 37R Fin w/Bulb 7' 10"

"37+ Cockpit Seats with 37R Transom" Actual Boat weight at factory 14,475
lbs. (less rig?)  37+ Fuel Tank aft so larger aft bunk (higher by 3").
Additional opening ports in cockpit.  C 38 molded head w/hatch in deck.
Yanmar Engine w/2.83:1 Gear reduction.  37+ Bow casting.

...so you could mix and match as you wished.

Ken H.

On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 at 16:19, Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> There were those three versions of the 37 design, but if you are trying to
> figure out actual details, it becomes even more challenging.
> I know there were different rig heights - specific to a particular owner -
> so they are not all the same  . . .
> Four different keels will fit on that hull, and were interchangeable when
> the boat was originally built.
> Different boats got differing amounts of Kevlar in the laminate, and I
> think there was two different resins used - again - specific to a
> particular owner.
> In effect, they are custom boats  . . . .
>
> Rob Ball  C 34
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cutter/ Solent

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

David,

Two concerns:  The spin halyard should be above the headstay and will
chafe.  I would use either a jib halyard or topping lift.  I'm not sure the
cleats can take the load.  The load will effectively be on the windward
cleat.  I would check for adequate backing over a wide area.

Joel

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 4:34 PM David Lewis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I purchased my beautiful Landfall 35 3 months ago and I am preparing her
> to cross the Atlantic, which I have done several times. I want to put a
> staysail, to be used as storm jib, on her and to my mind the best way is to
> fit a temporary dyneema bridle between the two foreward mooring cleats and
> the forestay turnbuckle. Connect the tack of the staysail to that and use
> the spinnaker halyard to hoist  I would have the staysail made with a
> dyneema luff so I do not have to fit a a baby stay. This obviates the need
> to strengthen the foredeck and put a baby stay in.
> I would be interested in any thoughts from the group and other ideas.She
> leaks like a sieve of course but what a wonderful yacht.
> Thanks in advance
>
> David
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Cutter/ Solent

[David Lewis via CnC-List]

I purchased my beautiful Landfall 35 3 months ago and I am preparing her to
cross the Atlantic, which I have done several times. I want to put a
staysail, to be used as storm jib, on her and to my mind the best way is to
fit a temporary dyneema bridle between the two foreward mooring cleats and
the forestay turnbuckle. Connect the tack of the staysail to that and use
the spinnaker halyard to hoist  I would have the staysail made with a
dyneema luff so I do not have to fit a a baby stay. This obviates the need
to strengthen the foredeck and put a baby stay in.
I would be interested in any thoughts from the group and other ideas.She
leaks like a sieve of course but what a wonderful yacht.
Thanks in advance

David
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 Versions

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Jeez, Rob, what an incredible font of knowledge you are! We¡re lucky to have 
you here on the list. Thank you!
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 15:19, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> There were those three versions of the 37 design, but if you are trying to 
> figure out actual details, it becomes even more challenging.
> I know there were different rig heights - specific to a particular owner - so 
> they are not all the same  . . .
> Four different keels will fit on that hull, and were interchangeable when the 
> boat was originally built.
> Different boats got differing amounts of Kevlar in the laminate, and I think 
> there was two different resins used - again - specific to a particular owner.
> In effect, they are custom boats  . . . .
> 
> Rob Ball  C 34
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List C 37/40

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

My understanding is that the R version was a flat out racing boat while the 
other two were Racer / Cruisers.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 3:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List C 37/40

Can someone tell me the major differences in the 37/40 and the "R" version,
and are there other versions of the same boat. 

By the way, apparently Beau Geste is in Toronto getting fixed by the owner
himself.

Thanks,
Paul Hood



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Stus-List 37/40 Versions

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

There were those three versions of the 37 design, but if you are trying to 
figure out actual details, it becomes even more challenging.
I know there were different rig heights - specific to a particular owner - so 
they are not all the same  . . .
Four different keels will fit on that hull, and were interchangeable when the 
boat was originally built.
Different boats got differing amounts of Kevlar in the laminate, and I think 
there was two different resins used - again - specific to a particular owner.
In effect, they are custom boats  . . . .

Rob Ball  C 34

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Re: Stus-List C 37/40

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Paul,

There are three versions — The Plus, the XL and the R. The stern and the 
interior of the R is very different. 

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-3740-r 

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-3740 
 
https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-3740-xl 
 

All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 




On Jul 23, 2019, at 2:37 PM, Paul via CnC-List  wrote:

Can someone tell me the major differences in the 37/40 and the "R" version,
and are there other versions of the same boat. 

By the way, apparently Beau Geste is in Toronto getting fixed by the owner
himself.

Thanks,
Paul Hood



___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List C 37/40

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Well, he’s got his work cut out for himself…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 1:37 PM, Paul via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> By the way, apparently Beau Geste is in Toronto getting fixed by the owner
> himself.

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Stus-List C 37/40

[Paul via CnC-List]

Can someone tell me the major differences in the 37/40 and the "R" version,
and are there other versions of the same boat. 

By the way, apparently Beau Geste is in Toronto getting fixed by the owner
himself.

Thanks,
Paul Hood



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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Inverter Question

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

This could be one of several issues. The first thing is unless you have a true 
sine wave inverter, your fridge is getting square wave power from the inverter 
instead of sine wave and that may account for the buzz.
You can check the voltage from the inverter easily enough and see if it is too 
low and you can check the waveform with an oscilloscope.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Inverter Question

My inverter is controlled by a Heart Interface 2000 controller. When I 
disconnect shore power and want to invert AC power, there is an "Invert" button 
on the contoller that I can press and AC power will feed to the boat's wall 
plugs. I tested this out for the first time last night and discovered I did 
indeed gain AC power to the plugs as expected, however my fridge compressor 
suddenly started making a humming/buzzing sound the second I switched on the 
plugs. I tried disconnecting power to the fridge but it continued to buzz until 
the wall plugs were switched off again. This leads me to think it may have to 
do with grounding? (fridge and wall plugs should or shouldn't share a common 
ground?) My fridge runs normally when the "invert" button is switched off or on 
as long as the wall plugs are not activated. I want to use the inverter but I 
don't want to kill my fridge compressor - Is this buzzing normal? any help?

Dan
Breakaweigh I
C
Halifax, NS
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Stus-List Inverter Question

[Dan via CnC-List]

My inverter is controlled by a Heart Interface 2000 controller. When I
disconnect shore power and want to invert AC power, there is an "Invert"
button on the contoller that I can press and AC power will feed to the
boat's wall plugs. I tested this out for the first time last night and
discovered I did indeed gain AC power to the plugs as expected, however my
fridge compressor suddenly started making a humming/buzzing sound the
second I switched on the plugs. I tried disconnecting power to the fridge
but it continued to buzz until the wall plugs were switched off again. This
leads me to think it may have to do with grounding? (fridge and wall plugs
should or shouldn't share a common ground?) My fridge runs normally when
the "invert" button is switched off or on as long as the wall plugs are not
activated. I want to use the inverter but I don't want to kill my fridge
compressor - Is this buzzing normal? any help?

Dan
Breakaweigh I
C
Halifax, NS
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Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Let us hope the buyers knew what they were getting into!
Joe
Coquina

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

Beau Geste appears to have been sold.
We may see some traffic here from the new owners.

Cheers
Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.
Sent from my iPhone


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Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,
Creola was for sale when I was looking for my boat, four years ago. There’s 
probably a reason she’s been on the market for so long. As others have 
mentioned, a good survey is your best bet. Even if you have to walk away, it’s 
well worth it.

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 6:39 AM, Lee Harris via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
> indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
> balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all 
> older boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as 
> well..thxs lee
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Lee,

I have a 1990 C 37/40+ and could not be happier with the boat. I purchased it 
in 2005 and it is in great shape (and I have a glowing survey from this past 
April to prove it!). 

The postings on Sailing Anarchy and other sites are from one particular owner 
who was/is on this list. He had a lot of problems with his boat and often makes 
a lot of noise about how much he hated owning that model. Know that he is in a 
very small minority. The rest of us have nothing but great things to say. 

Of course, every boat has issues and a good survey will detail everything you 
need to know. 

the best part about the boat, to be honest, is this list. We have some real 
experts on here including Josh Muckley and “Obi-Wan” Ken Heaton — always 
delighted to answer questions, share videos, upload specs and more. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:39 AM, Lee Harris via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all older 
boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as well..thxs 
lee
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Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Lee Harris via CnC-List]

 Creola / FLA / R model
On Tuesday, July 23, 2019, 08:21:14 AM MDT, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I hope the original poster isn’t referring to Beau Geste, located in Bayfield, 
WI; a vessel discussed on the list earlier.  If so, run away.  Don’t even think 
twice.
— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:09 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:
"the boat may bend and then bind the steering "
That's funny, no, that doesn't happen.
" balsa core and water on an older boat."
Get a good survey.  C's generally don't have this problem but once in a while 
they do, usually due to a later owner modification done badly.
Which 1990 C 37/40 are you looking at?  Just curious...

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia  


 

On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:40, Lee Harris via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all older 
boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as well..thxs 
lee___

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Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Brent via CnC-List]

Beau Geste appears to have been sold.  
We may see some traffic here from the new owners. 

Cheers 
Brent 
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 8:20 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I hope the original poster isn’t referring to Beau Geste, located in 
> Bayfield, WI; a vessel discussed on the list earlier.  If so, run away.  
> Don’t even think twice.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:09 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> " the boat may bend and then bind the steering "
>> 
>> That's funny, no, that doesn't happen.
>> 
>> " balsa core and water on an older boat."
>> 
>> Get a good survey.  C's generally don't have this problem but once in a 
>> while they do, usually due to a later owner modification done badly.
>> 
>> Which 1990 C 37/40 are you looking at?  Just curious...
>> 
>> 
>> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
>> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
>> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
>> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia  
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>> On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:40, Lee Harris via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
>>> indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is 
>>> the balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for 
>>> all older boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced 
>>> as well..thxs lee
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Deck Tie-downs

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Rob, thanks! As an aside, I love the design of my boat and sign your praises 
every time I go sailing
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio Rver, Mile 584.4
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Rob Ball via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rob Ball 
Sent: Tue, Jul 23, 2019 10:08 am
Subject: Stus-List Deck Tie-downs

Richard,

If you think the boat is moving near/at a tie-down, it wouldn't be too hard to 
add an additional one or two  . . 

There is a funny story about George Cuthbertson . . .

He was sailing on Redhead ( C 35 Hull No. 1 ) in the Southern Circuit (Bruce 
Kirby Skipper) and was lying in his bunk and he saw the bulkhead moving 
slightly where it intersected the deck . . . . He was horrified (scared 
actually) but the boat survived the race.
When he got home he explained to George Hinterhoeller (the builder) that the 
deck connection had failed.  George told George that there was NO deck 
connection.  The deck just floats.  Cuthbertson relaxed, and C boats were 
built that way for years.

When the boat is/was built the deck is upside down in the mold.  Then the 
wiring, etc, and then the headliner is dropped onto the deck (while it's still 
in the mold). Then flip it over and drop it on the hull.  You can appreciate to 
then go inside the boat and tab the bulkheads to the deck needs access.  So to 
do so the headliner has to leave spaces all around the deck connection points 
in order to accomplish this. That done there are now a number of openings in 
the headliner that have to be closed up and look attractive - a big change in 
the process.

Rob Ball  C 34


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Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I hope the original poster isn’t referring to Beau Geste, located in Bayfield, 
WI; a vessel discussed on the list earlier.  If so, run away.  Don’t even think 
twice.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:09 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> " the boat may bend and then bind the steering "
> 
> That's funny, no, that doesn't happen.
> 
> " balsa core and water on an older boat."
> 
> Get a good survey.  C's generally don't have this problem but once in a 
> while they do, usually due to a later owner modification done badly.
> 
> Which 1990 C 37/40 are you looking at?  Just curious...
> 
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:40, Lee Harris via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
> indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
> balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all 
> older boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as 
> well..thxs lee
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Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

" the boat may bend and then bind the steering "

That's funny, no, that doesn't happen.

" balsa core and water on an older boat."

Get a good survey.  C's generally don't have this problem but once in a
while they do, usually due to a later owner modification done badly.

Which 1990 C 37/40 are you looking at?  Just curious...


Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia




On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:40, Lee Harris via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others)
> indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is
> the balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for
> all older boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced
> as well..thxs lee
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Deck Tie-downs

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Richard,

If you think the boat is moving near/at a tie-down, it wouldn't be too hard to 
add an additional one or two  . . 

There is a funny story about George Cuthbertson . . .

He was sailing on Redhead ( C 35 Hull No. 1 ) in the Southern Circuit (Bruce 
Kirby Skipper) and was lying in his bunk and he saw the bulkhead moving 
slightly where it intersected the deck . . . . He was horrified (scared 
actually) but the boat survived the race.
When he got home he explained to George Hinterhoeller (the builder) that the 
deck connection had failed.  George told George that there was NO deck 
connection.  The deck just floats.  Cuthbertson relaxed, and C boats were 
built that way for years.

When the boat is/was built the deck is upside down in the mold.  Then the 
wiring, etc, and then the headliner is dropped onto the deck (while it's still 
in the mold). Then flip it over and drop it on the hull.  You can appreciate to 
then go inside the boat and tab the bulkheads to the deck needs access.  So to 
do so the headliner has to leave spaces all around the deck connection points 
in order to accomplish this. That done there are now a number of openings in 
the headliner that have to be closed up and look attractive - a big change in 
the process.

Rob Ball   C 34


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Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Lee Harris via CnC-List]

Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all older 
boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as well..thxs 
lee___

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Re: Stus-List Double fluorescent overhead dinette light fixture

[David Risch via CnC-List]

We are replacing my ThinLights.  Anybody want the carcasses?

David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2019 1:48 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Double fluorescent overhead dinette light fixture

I took the marine beam replacement led route.  The tubes weren't cheap 
(~$20/each) but a drop in replacement bulb that didn't need rewired or new 
holes or anything else was a big win.  I got the warm white ones.  I guess 
technically MB suggests rewiring the fixtures to bypass the florescent starting 
circuit.  Mine have worked just fine without the bypass.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019, 1:08 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
For those of us that have older boats with the double fluorescent light fixture 
on the headliner, it's a Thin Lite Model 116.  The bulbs are F13T5's.

Mine started to flicker a bit this weekend so I explored replacement options.  
My first thought was marinebeam's replacement bulbs.  They also make a 
replacement fixture but the dimensions didn't match.

However, I discovered Thin Lite makes a direct replacement LED version.  Its 
Model LED126P.  I saw one on a marine vendor site called an M126P for $73.

Mine is still hanging in there but it's good to know a direct replacement is 
available.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Deck tie-down

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Rob, thank you for the design information; this benefits all of us; including 
me as well as the owner who had the issue; my boat has the tie-downs, and 
although I knew they stiffened the deck, I have often wondered about how they 
came to be placed where they are...please add information like this at anytime 
you wish-it is appreciated!
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Rob Ball via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rob Ball 
Sent: Mon, Jul 22, 2019 7:29 pm
Subject: Stus-List Deck tie-down

Indeed the deck floats on the bulkhead(s) and there are those tiny tie-downs at 
sensitive spots. 
All of the boats did that until we learned on the C 40, that the loads and 
twisting was too much. 
So, on the Mk III 35 we started to tab the bulkheads to the deck. This results 
in a much better structure (tighter forestay) but made the assembly procedure 
considerably more complex and expensive. 
This became the policy on all of the larger boats from then on. 
I think the new 33 has tabbed bulkheads but my memory isn’t perfect . . . . . 
Rob Ball.  C 34. 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole: Dragon's Breath Regatta

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 You guys be sure to send photos...we vicarious racers love to see them!  
Especially if there's a C or a lister on boardthanks
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 19085 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Tue, Jul 23, 2019 7:35 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

Great ! I’ll be racing my new Etchells  in the spin div. so no C :( but will 
say hello for sure ! 
Thanks 
John ConklinS/V Halcyonwww.flirtingwithfire.net


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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Great ! I’ll be racing my new Etchells  in the spin div. so no C :( but will 
say hello for sure !
Thanks
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Jul 22, 2019, at 8:27 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I plan to be there—non-spin.
See and meet you there. We have a slip at the Oriental Marina.

Charlie

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On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hope I can see it at dragons breath regatta in 2 weeks ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:51 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Probably although their video suggests trimming with a supplied cutting blade 
and then hand sanding the edges. Apparently the vinyl is pretty easy to trim.

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On Monday, July 22, 2019, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Can you apply then nip clean and precise with a router bit ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jul 22, 2019, at 3:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

That’s the plan— to use Plasteak. I invested in the roller and am about to 
order the vinyl.

Originally thought I’d do it in place using their clear plastic sheet and cut 
the vinyl to fit, then glue it down in the boat.

However I only have 4 big pieces and removing them is no big deal. Thus my 
latest plan is to do it off the boat which would be much easier on my back and 
my knees!

I can also (I think) avoid the cost/shipping of the clear plastic sheet this 
way.

My thought is to place pieces together as on the boat and then cover with the 
Plasteak and cut and glue it.

Not quite sure if this will work since I won’t be able to see ‘through’ the 
vinyl for matching purposes as I might with the clear plastic. If I can get 
both vinyl and plastic shipped with only 1 $50 Fedex large piece shipping 
charge, I may get the plastic anyway @ $75.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
36 XL/kcb #077



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On Monday, July 22, 2019, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Are you using PlasTeak or equivalent?  Will look great when you finish.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/marine-grade-flooring

I did a hatch cover on a trawler with PlasDek, the exterior version.  The job 
was straightforward.  Get a laminate roller from a big box store.  I used one 
of these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Extension-Handle-Roller/3030693

PlasTeak folks were easy to work with.  I had the piece custom made by them 
with borders.

 Here's a pic of the finished job:  
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 11:57 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers;

I am considering re-doing my cabin sole (for the 2nd time!) using a glue-on 
vinyl laminate directly over the old sole. Only the thin teak and holly veneer 
of the sole is bad--otherwise the screwed-in boards (4) that make up the sole 
are fine.

After about 10+ years of racing crew activity (mostly throwing cans, bottles 
down below plus occasionally dropping of other gear on the sole (winch handles, 
etc. ) along with a previous short-lived attempt of mine to sand the current 
veneer, it's time to do this job right and for less than the 2 boat bucks it 
cost when I had the yard do it previously (they replaced entire sole).

I will remove the pieces and glue the vinyl to the old veneer, which can be 
trimmed with a knife, to get reasonable matches to the teak and holly pattern.

Have any listers gone this route with sprucing up their cabin sole? If so, are 
there any pitfalls to avoid before I begin this latest DIY project?

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
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