Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Steve, will look int that further, how to test.  lots to learn on this 
as I research repair and possible upgrade.
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 9:11 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
> 
> Yes there is most likely a problem with your voltage regulator, but in the 
> absence of other information, you don't know for certain. One other thing 
> that just might be going on is very low output caused by poor contact between 
> the brushes and the slip rings. If there is lots of current available to 
> charge the battery when mostly depleted, but only up to 12.6 volts, then 
> regulator it is. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> Yanmar YSB12
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Way too many other vehicles. 
> 
>  Dave S via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Thanks Neil - and yes sounds similar.  I have the smaller acr which has 
> on-board led indicators.   I gather you needed the larger unit for a higher 
> output alternator.
> According to the support docs, the charge source has to exceed 13.7 v for a 
> period of time for the batteries to combine.  On the shore charger the 
> batteries see 14.28 v from the charger, and settle at 13.2v fully charged, as 
> do yours. 
> Here’s the installation:
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
> I missed and will add the ability to monitor the voltage on the start 
> battery, this will give all the necessary info.
> Off to the alternator shop...
> 
> Dave. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Marinco solar vent motor

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Saw that one. Hobby Lobby also has one.  Need to measure the shaft diameter. 
Vendors for these small motors aren’t forthcoming with specs and dimensions. 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 6:28 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This looks a lot like the motor in my Nicro vent, it would depend on the 
> shaft size which isn't listed. 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Small-Electric-slower-Stevens-International/dp/B00TL4FMCC
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
>> On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 at 13:20, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Touché’s Marinco/Nicro model 20703 3 inch solar vent motor died. I bought a 
>> new 20703 and installed it.  Marinco no longer makes the 20703. It’s now the 
>> 20803. 
>> 
>> Anyway, the solar panel in the old one still puts out 2.2+ vdc.  It’s the 
>> motor that’s dead. I think the motor is just a 1.5-3 vdc small hobby motor. 
>> They cost about $5. On the old motor are “227” and “2E29”.  The motor is 
>> about 1 3/8 inch diameter and 1 inch tall.  Don’t know the rpm. 
>> 
>> I haven’t been able to find or cross reference the darn thing. Would be nice 
>> to fix the old one as a spare. 
>> 
>> Anybody know where I can find one or what a good industry number for one is?
>> 
>> I may hit a couple hobby shops to see if they can reference it. 
>> 
>> Dennis C. 
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Marinco solar vent motor

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

This looks a lot like the motor in my Nicro vent, it would depend on the
shaft size which isn't listed.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Electric-slower-Stevens-International/dp/B00TL4FMCC

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sat, 10 Aug 2019 at 13:20, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Touché’s Marinco/Nicro model 20703 3 inch solar vent motor died. I bought
> a new 20703 and installed it.  Marinco no longer makes the 20703. It’s now
> the 20803.
>
> Anyway, the solar panel in the old one still puts out 2.2+ vdc.  It’s the
> motor that’s dead. I think the motor is just a 1.5-3 vdc small hobby motor.
> They cost about $5. On the old motor are “227” and “2E29”.  The motor is
> about 1 3/8 inch diameter and 1 inch tall.  Don’t know the rpm.
>
> I haven’t been able to find or cross reference the darn thing. Would be
> nice to fix the old one as a spare.
>
> Anybody know where I can find one or what a good industry number for one
> is?
>
> I may hit a couple hobby shops to see if they can reference it.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Marinco solar vent motor

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touché’s Marinco/Nicro model 20703 3 inch solar vent motor died. I bought a new 
20703 and installed it.  Marinco no longer makes the 20703. It’s now the 20803. 

Anyway, the solar panel in the old one still puts out 2.2+ vdc.  It’s the motor 
that’s dead. I think the motor is just a 1.5-3 vdc small hobby motor. They cost 
about $5. On the old motor are “227” and “2E29”.  The motor is about 1 3/8 inch 
diameter and 1 inch tall.  Don’t know the rpm. 

I haven’t been able to find or cross reference the darn thing. Would be nice to 
fix the old one as a spare. 

Anybody know where I can find one or what a good industry number for one is?

I may hit a couple hobby shops to see if they can reference it. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Superior Shield by Superior Products out of Florida. Absolute best clear 
protection for marine environments. 

I coated my Perko chrome cowl vents 10 years ago. 3 coats and no pitting so 
far. 

Coated Touché’s interior light fixtures, brass chino meter, barometer/clock set 
and more. Swear by the stuff. 

It’s a fluoropolymer coating which is a close cousin of the clear pill 
packaging.  

It WORKS!  Best clear coat I’ve ever found. 

Hard to find. I can get phone number off can when I get back home. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 11:20 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty around 
> the perimeter. It is not available in a painted black finish like some other 
> gauges from the same vendor. A new gauge is about $35, but I don't want to 
> just buy a new one every 3 years or so. Is there some kind of 
> paint/varnish/clearcoat/something I could paint on there to prevent this from 
> happening again?
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Have you tried chrome polish or automotive rust remover?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 10, 2019, at 12:20 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty around 
> the perimeter. It is not available in a painted black finish like some other 
> gauges from the same vendor. A new gauge is about $35, but I don't want to 
> just buy a new one every 3 years or so. Is there some kind of 
> paint/varnish/clearcoat/something I could paint on there to prevent this from 
> happening again?
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Rustoleum in a spray can. You can get it in flat and glossy black.

Alan Bergen

On Sat, Aug 10, 2019 at 9:20 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty
> around the perimeter. It is not available in a painted black finish like
> some other gauges from the same vendor. A new gauge is about $35, but I
> don't want to just buy a new one every 3 years or so. Is there some kind
> of paint/varnish/clearcoat/something I could paint on there to prevent
> this from happening again?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=QfcQsK6riS-6QMMQ-2mP7nar54OwctdCyg5ar0kj9yo=9NrITvfJ6RgXuO3NgJJmHl8vc00rtW3gpV6qAj1_Efc=
>
>
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Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

My fuel pressure gauge in finished in chrome and it is getting rusty 
around the perimeter. It is not available in a painted black finish like 
some other gauges from the same vendor. A new gauge is about $35, but I 
don't want to just buy a new one every 3 years or so. Is there some kind 
of paint/varnish/clearcoat/something I could paint on there to prevent 
this from happening again?


Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Many years ago I had low voltage on alternator 
output and found it to be a bad diode in the 
rectifier... just one more thing to check.


Cheers, Russ


At 01:40 PM 8/9/2019, you wrote:

Hi All,Â
I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is 
the stock 55 amp alternator.   I noticed that 
my ACR was not combining batteries, which led me 
to research a bit then measure the voltages on 
each bank, and then at the alternator “Batt” terminal. Â
Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the 
voltage at the BATT terminal does not exceed 
12.63 in operation.   (he ACR therefore 
doesn’t “see” a charging state)  The belt is new and not slipping.Â
This suggests and alternator or regulator 
problem.   Does this make sense?  Is there anything else I should check?
If I end up replacing the regulator, are there 
better options for this alternator than stock?


Thanks All.

Dave



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Yes there is most likely a problem with your voltage regulator, but in the 
absence of other information, you don't know for certain. One other thing that 
just might be going on is very low output caused by poor contact between the 
brushes and the slip rings. If there is lots of current available to charge the 
battery when mostly depleted, but only up to 12.6 volts, then regulator it is. 

Steve Thomas
Yanmar YSB12
Yanmar 3HM35F
Way too many other vehicles. 

 Dave S via CnC-List  wrote: 
Thanks Neil - and yes sounds similar.  I have the smaller acr which has 
on-board led indicators.   I gather you needed the larger unit for a higher 
output alternator.
According to the support docs, the charge source has to exceed 13.7 v for a 
period of time for the batteries to combine.  On the shore charger the 
batteries see 14.28 v from the charger, and settle at 13.2v fully charged, as 
do yours. 
Here’s the installation:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
I missed and will add the ability to monitor the voltage on the start battery, 
this will give all the necessary info.
Off to the alternator shop...

Dave. 

Sent from my iPhone



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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil - and yes sounds similar.  I have the smaller acr which has 
on-board led indicators.   I gather you needed the larger unit for a higher 
output alternator.
According to the support docs, the charge source has to exceed 13.7 v for a 
period of time for the batteries to combine.  On the shore charger the 
batteries see 14.28 v from the charger, and settle at 13.2v fully charged, as 
do yours. 
Here’s the installation:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
I missed and will add the ability to monitor the voltage on the start battery, 
this will give all the necessary info.
Off to the alternator shop...

Dave. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 9, 2019, at 10:37 PM, Neil Gallagher  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Interesting question for me, as just a few days ago I installed an ACR and 
> have been watching the voltage on the house bank, (alternator output is to 
> the starting bank only) by which I can see when the ACR combines.  It seems 
> to be at about 13 to 13.2 volts, so it does sound like your 
> alternator/regulator is not putting out high enough voltage.   On my ACR 
> (Blue Sea 7610) you can put in an LED that lights up when it combines, just 
> to be sure.
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
>> On 8/9/2019 4:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hi All, 
>> I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is the stock 55 amp alternator.   
>> I noticed that my ACR was not combining batteries, which led me to research 
>> a bit then measure the voltages on each bank, and then at the alternator 
>> “Batt” terminal.  
>> Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the voltage at the BATT terminal does 
>> not exceed 12.63 in operation.   (he ACR therefore doesn’t “see” a charging 
>> state)  The belt is new and not slipping. 
>> This suggests and alternator or regulator problem.   Does this make sense?  
>> Is there anything else I should check?
>> If I end up replacing the regulator, are there better options for this 
>> alternator than stock?
>>  
>> Thanks All.
>>  
>> Dave
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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