Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories
Sort of like a big laxative I guess. Cleaned out!! On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 8:45 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Gosh, I haven't heard Scott-Atwater in decades. My Dad bought an old used > Elgin 5 hp outboard in the 50's. We would rent a skiff from a marina in > Big Lagoon near Pensacola, attach the Elgin and go fish near Fort Pickens. > I sail Touche' near Fort Pickens nearly every week and was just in Big > Lagoon a couple weeks ago. > > We occasionally dine at Flounders Restaurant on Pensacola Beach. For > decor, they have lots of old outboards hanging above the tables. I often > wonder if my Dad's old Elgin is one of them. > > Another tale, when I bought Touche' the old Atomic 4 hadn't been run in > years. Took me a while to get it running. When I finally got it started I > wanted to clean the valve train and top works. An old shade tree mechanic > trick is to throttle it up and pour automatic transmission fluid in the > carburetor. Do NOT do this when folks are in your marina. It smokes like > crazy. I waited until late evening when the marina was deserted. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 2:29 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> >> As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an >> auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood runabout >> but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and folk lore of the >> day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning powder) could restore an >> engine. >> >> We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box into >> the carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started climbing and >> the boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two season before I got >> a nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder gunked up the piston & >> cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance. >> >> I would not recommend the practice. >> >> Cheers, Russ >> ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1 >> >> At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote: >> >> As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8. I >> wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice >> detergent 10-30. The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and >> engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see >> out the rear view mirror. >> >> Tom Buscaglia >> S/V Alera >> 1990 C 37+/40 >> Vashon WA >> P 206.463.9200 >> C 305.409.3660 >> >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List engine oil
It’s all about the hydrodynamic film thickness provided by the oil. As long as that film is thicker than the major dimension of any asperities like surface roughness or oil borne particles that get trapped between the contacting surfaces then all is well from an accelerated abnormal wear point of view. We call it the lambda ratio which is film thickness divided by asperity size. You want a number greater than 1 which means no metal to metal contact so no wear. Anti wear additives like tricresyl phosphate in the oils we have nowadays build up a protective layer on the metal surfaces in an effort to make sure the lambda ratio stays greater than 1 and fine filtration traps extraneous particles that might defeat this. Our science is good and the engineering supports it. Again the oils we get to choose from are all good quality nowadays. Very good really and they can last very long times under our normal engine running temperatures without any thermal degradation. On Sat, Aug 31, 2019 at 4:55 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi Ron, Wade & Bill, > > It seems engine oil can be an emotional topic. For any experienced > yachtsmen out there who have a system and are happy with it, please don't > change any practice that works for you on my account. > > For newbies and others, I typically advise that engine oil is the cheapest > thing we buy for our boats. Change it as often as you feel like it. My > routine was every fall except every other if I had less than 100 hours on > that year. > > The filter gets changed much less. > Filter fun facts, filtering performance gets better as it gets dirty and > the blackness of oil is unburned carbon too small to filter (not harmful). > > When long distance cruising I used to save the used engine oil to use as > the 10:1 oil ration for my Seagull outboard. It wore a diaper when loaded > on the rail to keep the deck from dark stains. Livin' on the cheap, doncha > know! > > The main degradation factors of engine oils are heat & pressure followed > by combustion products (blowby) & moisture. A properly sized diesel runs > much higher loading than a gasoline transportation engine. > Thus the hierachy of engine oil can be stated as: > GOOD - gasoline engine rated oils > BETTER - diesel engine rated oils (higher detergent additives than gas > rated) > BEST - 100% synthetic feedstock oils > > So, Rotella Triple T is great for all of our applications. The main reason > I run synthetics though is for heat tolerance. If you lose cooling capacity > and don't notice right away then when "something smells HOT!" happens the > synthetic oil may be the difference between an inconvenience and disaster. > > Syn is not for all cases of course. Last winter a buddy was on a bike > trip, 1200 CC air cooled, to Mexico and wanted to "treat it right" by > putting fresh synthetic in. I said, "No. No. Don't do that. Synthetic is > too slippery for the wet clutch. Use something that has the JEMA rating, > like Rotella Triple-T." He did a 15,000 km trip on that oil change with > only putting in top-ups. Not recommended at all but demonstrates the > quality of regular rated diesel oil. > > Cheers, Russ > ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1 > > At 10:36 AM 8/31/2019, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: > > Content-Type: multipart/alternative; > boundary="=_Part_716484_1681950774.1567272988188" > Content-Length: 1916 > > > > I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in > an old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life. The claim was > that it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking. > It's highly recommended for newer cars of course. > I would presume the same would be true for marine engines, unless the fact > that they're diesels would make a difference??? > Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's true or not? > Ron > Wild Cheri > C 30-1 > STL > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories
Gosh, I haven't heard Scott-Atwater in decades. My Dad bought an old used Elgin 5 hp outboard in the 50's. We would rent a skiff from a marina in Big Lagoon near Pensacola, attach the Elgin and go fish near Fort Pickens. I sail Touche' near Fort Pickens nearly every week and was just in Big Lagoon a couple weeks ago. We occasionally dine at Flounders Restaurant on Pensacola Beach. For decor, they have lots of old outboards hanging above the tables. I often wonder if my Dad's old Elgin is one of them. Another tale, when I bought Touche' the old Atomic 4 hadn't been run in years. Took me a while to get it running. When I finally got it started I wanted to clean the valve train and top works. An old shade tree mechanic trick is to throttle it up and pour automatic transmission fluid in the carburetor. Do NOT do this when folks are in your marina. It smokes like crazy. I waited until late evening when the marina was deserted. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Sep 1, 2019 at 2:29 PM Russ & Melody via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an > auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood runabout > but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and folk lore of the > day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning powder) could restore an > engine. > > We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box into the > carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started climbing and the > boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two season before I got a > nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder gunked up the piston & > cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance. > > I would not recommend the practice. > > Cheers, Russ > ex-* Sweet *35 mk-1 > > At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote: > > As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8. I > wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice > detergent 10-30. The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and > engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see > out the rear view mirror. > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List engine oil -> engine stories
As a further aside, I bought an old Scott-Atwater 20 HP motor from an auction, when I was 13 or 14 years old. I put it on my 12' plywood runabout but it was unreliable due to poor compressor. Stories and folk lore of the day led us to belive that Bon-Ami (a cleaning powder) could restore an engine. We.., be damned. It did. A friend spooned almost half a small box into the carburetor while I had it at WOT. The motor revs started climbing and the boat got up on plane. That old O/B ran another two season before I got a nice used Mercury 20 HP. I suspect the powder gunked up the piston & cylinder so much to take out a bunch of clearance. I would not recommend the practice. Cheers, Russ ex-Sweet 35 mk-1 At 10:14 AM 9/1/2019, you wrote: As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8. I wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice detergent 10-30. The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see out the rear view mirror. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 C 305.409.3660 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List engine oil
As an aside, in high school I had a 48 Ford with a flat head V 8. I wanted to treat it good so instead of using regular 30 weight I used a nice detergent 10-30. The detergent cleaned the gunk out of the bearings and engine pretty much fell apart, blowing out so much oil that a could not see out the rear view mirror. Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 C 305.409.3660 > On Sep 1, 2019, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2019 17:36:28 + (UTC) > From: "Ronald B. Frerker" > To: C List > Subject: Re: Stus-List engine oil > Message-ID: <1270410097.716485.1567272988...@mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I'd been told by a mechanic, that one shouldn't put 100% synthetic oil in an > old vehicle that had been using regular oil all its life.? The claim was that > it would clean the engine too good and it would start leaking.It's highly > recommended for newer cars of course.I would presume the same would be true > for marine engines, unless the fact that they're diesels would make a > difference???Anyone else ever heard that story and have heard whether it's > true or not?RonWild CheriC 30-1?STL > -- next part -- ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray