Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Steve Theriault via CnC-List]

Stephen & Joanne Theriault/ Shoal Mate/ C 29MK2/ 1984/ 687/
sjtheriaul...@gmail.com/ Halifax NS

On Tue, Oct 15, 2019 at 9:09 PM CHRIS PRICE via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Chris Price
>
> iceboa...@comcast.net
>
> C 35 Mk I “Pradel”
>
> Black Hole Creek off of the Magothy River, MD
>
> Would like to be at the rendezvous but will be duck hunting a little south
> of there at Elliott Island, Md
>
>
> On October 15, 2019 at 11:24 AM Jack Shincke via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Jack Shincke
> Jody V
> C and C 29-2
> 69141
> Olympia, WA
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad 
>
> On Monday, October 14, 2019, 5:08 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Edd,
>
> Chuck Borge
> Tenacious
> C 41, 1984
> 33711
> Somerset, MA
> chuckbo...@gmail.com
>
> Thanks for keeping a contingency plan for the list.
> Best regards,
> Chuck
>
>
> *Chuck Borge*
> *508-642-3557*
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 3, 2019 at 4:53 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin
> board / photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that
> will act as a supplement and perhaps one day, *only* when Stu says he’s
> no longer interested in continuing on, act as a replacement to the service
> we are using now.
>
> I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a
> moment, please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct
> email to me) with the following information:
>
> Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address /
> Home Port
>
> For example:
> Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /
> e...@schillay.com  / Venice Island, FL
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter
> haul-out and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[CHRIS PRICE via CnC-List]

Chris Priceiceboa...@comcast.netC 35 Mk I “Pradel”Black Hole Creek off of the Magothy River, MDWould like to be at the rendezvous but will be duck hunting a little south of there at Elliott Island, MdOn October 15, 2019 at 11:24 AM Jack Shincke via CnC-List  wrote:   Jack ShinckeJody VC and C 29-269141Olympia, WASent from Yahoo Mail for iPad  On Monday, October 14, 2019, 5:08 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List  wrote:Hi Edd,Chuck BorgeTenaciousC 41, 198433711Somerset, MAchuckbo...@gmail.comThanks for keeping a contingency plan for the list.Best regards,ChuckChuck Borge508-642-3557 On Thu, Oct 3, 2019 at 4:53 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Listers,In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin board / photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that will act as a supplement and perhaps one day, only when Stu says he’s no longer interested in continuing on, act as a replacement to the service we are using now.I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a moment, please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct email to me) with the following information:Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home PortFor example:Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /  e...@schillay.com  / Venice Island, FLThanks to all. And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter haul-out and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"All the best,EddEdd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice, FL Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___   Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --    https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  ___  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   ___  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   
 

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it something else?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Looks like it.

Curving Capabilities:

ProCurve Glass Design, Inc. also provides a variety of glass options including 
uncoated clear or tinted, pyrolitic reflective and low E, spandrel, wire and 
patterned glasses as well as special edgework and polishing. Technical 
assistance is always available to assist you during the design phase of your 
project.

Chemically   
Strengthened Glass:

ProCurve Glass Design, Inc. can provide additional strength to glass lites 
through a chemical strengthening process known as ion-exchange. The glass is 
submerged in a bath of potassium nitrate where the large alkali potassium ions 
exchange places with the smaller alkali sodium ions in the surface of the 
glass. Because chemically strengthened glass breaks in a pattern similar to 
annealed glass, it is not used by itself as a safety glazing material. It can 
be laminated for a variety of security, and transportation applications.

Mine has a slightly dark tint. Probably anything you have ever seen in a car 
window, they have a quote form,

 

https://www.procurveglass.com/glasstypes/

 

Both of these seem t be the same company.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or 
is it something else?

 

Does safety glass come in tinted varieties?

 

From: Bill Coleman   via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 2:50 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Bill Coleman   

Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or 
is it something else?

 

Silicone and Polysulfide won’t adhere to acrylic or Lexan, so doubtful if it is 
that.

In your notes below your blog you mention Dow Corning 995, and I think it is 
795.

Seems like more people like that method nowadays.

 

Personally, I think you should get it made in safety glass, and be done with 
it. No more clouding, hazing, or coming apart.

Use the polyurethane that the pros use, or just call the Safelite guy and have 
him install it while you are watching your daughters soccer game.

My buddy had large panels made for his trawler, and It wasn’t that expensive.

 

https://www.procurveglass.com/

https://www.bentglassdesign.com/

 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 1:43 PM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it 
something else?

 

See link below for photos and description - have removed both portlights, one 
was original (and failing) the other was replaced and secured with a highly 
elastic adhesive-sealant that seems an awful lot like RTV silicone.   My 
question is how best to identify the material, and if silicone how best to 
remove?  

If silicone, it actually seemed to secure the plexi-glass very well indeed.   

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/totally-crazed-portlights-and.html

 

Thanks for any advice!   

 

Dave

 

 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it something else?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Does safety glass come in tinted varieties?

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 2:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or 
is it something else?

Silicone and Polysulfide won’t adhere to acrylic or Lexan, so doubtful if it is 
that.

In your notes below your blog you mention Dow Corning 995, and I think it is 
795.

Seems like more people like that method nowadays.

 

Personally, I think you should get it made in safety glass, and be done with 
it. No more clouding, hazing, or coming apart.

Use the polyurethane that the pros use, or just call the Safelite guy and have 
him install it while you are watching your daughters soccer game.

My buddy had large panels made for his trawler, and It wasn’t that expensive.

 

https://www.procurveglass.com/

https://www.bentglassdesign.com/

 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 1:43 PM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it 
something else?

 

See link below for photos and description - have removed both portlights, one 
was original (and failing) the other was replaced and secured with a highly 
elastic adhesive-sealant that seems an awful lot like RTV silicone.   My 
question is how best to identify the material, and if silicone how best to 
remove?  

If silicone, it actually seemed to secure the plexi-glass very well indeed.   

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/totally-crazed-portlights-and.html

 

Thanks for any advice!   

 

Dave

 

 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it something else?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Silicone and Polysulfide won’t adhere to acrylic or Lexan, so doubtful if it is 
that.

In your notes below your blog you mention Dow Corning 995, and I think it is 
795.

Seems like more people like that method nowadays.

 

Personally, I think you should get it made in safety glass, and be done with 
it. No more clouding, hazing, or coming apart.

Use the polyurethane that the pros use, or just call the Safelite guy and have 
him install it while you are watching your daughters soccer game.

My buddy had large panels made for his trawler, and It wasn’t that expensive.

 

https://www.procurveglass.com/

https://www.bentglassdesign.com/

 

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 1:43 PM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it 
something else?

 

See link below for photos and description - have removed both portlights, one 
was original (and failing) the other was replaced and secured with a highly 
elastic adhesive-sealant that seems an awful lot like RTV silicone.   My 
question is how best to identify the material, and if silicone how best to 
remove?  

If silicone, it actually seemed to secure the plexi-glass very well indeed.   

 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/totally-crazed-portlights-and.html

 

Thanks for any advice!   

 

Dave

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Interesting that on the "roll call" there are lots of the larger boats, 
several 29's, 2-26's but no 25's, or 27's...where are these boats? I know 
C made a ton of them...!
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
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Stus-List 33-2 portlight replacement - Is this stuff silicone or is it something else?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

See link below for photos and description - have removed both portlights,
one was original (and failing) the other was replaced and secured with a
highly elastic adhesive-sealant that seems an awful lot like RTV
silicone.   My question is how best to identify the material, and if
silicone how best to remove?
If silicone, it actually seemed to secure the plexi-glass very well
indeed.

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/totally-crazed-portlights-and.html

Thanks for any advice!

Dave
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Arid bilge/Dry bilge alternative

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


Brilliant.  Thanks for that.  I've got a flat bilge in my CS 30
  and can never get the last bit of water out of the fiberglass grid
  that form the stringers in my bilge.  I already have that same
  diaphragm pump and was planning to try some solutions this next
  season to try and eliminate the water that sits below my normal
  bilge pump - I'll have to make up something that will wedge into
  the grid cavity.
Mark


-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2019-10-12 7:28 p.m., Josh Muckley
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
I always hate the remaining water left in the
  bilge after the pump looses suction.  I have been interested
  in 2 different professional systems for some time but the
  price was just not easy to justify.  I recently found an
  article on a Catalina forum that purported to be cheap and
  functional so I decided to give it a try.  I built it and
  tested it with a bucket of water.  Here's the video.


https://youtu.be/mEFCPYiqdbg



Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The reason they gave you a non-answer is they see liability in their future 
when someone forgets the extra switch and can’t retake manual control and runs 
over a boat full of preschoolers on a field trip.
Make SURE you aren’t either driving into the rudder stops and also are not 
using the autopilot drive as a rudder stop. This means you could hit the stops 
but program the autopilot not to. You HAVE to be able to do this.


Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255





From: Dave S [mailto:syerd...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 15, 2019 11:14 AM
To: C Stus List ; Della Barba, Joe 

Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

Joe, great summary of the issues, thanks.
This is consistent with much of the information I've received so far.

  *   The RS drive is electric, and requires 7A - less than most hydraulic 
drives.  Apparently it also offers less resistance when not in use.  The ACU 
100 can supply just enough current (IIRC)
  *   The RS also has an electrically operated clutch (equivalent to the 
solenoid you mention) and requires this capability in the autopilot control 
unit.   The Ray ACU 100 has no provision for this, the ACU-200 does.  As you 
mention, the possibility exists to control the clutch manually with a switch, 
and in any case the RS can be overridden by hauling on the wheel in an 
emergency,.  The ACU-200 was the smallest Ray ACU recommended by octopus, I 
believe this is due to the provision for the clutch..
  *   The RS has an optional rudder position sensor that is gear-driven and 
mounts as a module on the drive motor assembly - so no separate installation 
hassle.   All Ray ACUs support this sensor.
  *   The RS drive's motor is mounted remotely at the end of the supplied 6' 
bowden cable, on a 6"X6" plate, not sure of the height.  Longer cables are 
available.
It might be worth trying this setup with the ACU100 and saving a grand at the 
risk of blowing the output fuse.  When asked about manually switching the 
clutch, the tech at octopus gave me something like a non-answer.

Am going to mock up a drive/cable to ensure that I can make a really clean 
install.   Will also explore local machine shops who might be able to fabricate 
a tiller arm. (if anyone else is interested, please reach out, and if anyone 
knows of a shop who can make one, would appreciate hearing more..)  the edson 
unit seems very spendy for what it is.

Dave
 33-2 windstar.


- Forwarded message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 12:31:01 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade -   UPDATE
I have the ancient predecessor to that autopilot, the old AH-4000. I collect 
parts of them when I find them to have spares and recently was messing around 
with my drive units. One of them was always undoing itself, so I had a bungee 
for the lever to keep it on. The other one was doing the opposite, it would 
slip when loaded up. Full power on the engine was enough to make it slip. 
Apparently slipping is a belt too loose and popping off on its own is a belt 
too tight. I managed to combine the best parts of the slipping one with a 
couple other drives and a new belt and now I have one that neither slips nor 
pops loose :) I think the newer grey ones have a much easier way to adjust the 
belt. If your drive pops the lever loose on its own, try loosening the belt a 
bit.
The EV-100 should be vastly superior to my old AH-4000 course computers. Mine 
will drive a ruler straight line upwind or in calm conditions, but following 
seas can confuse it and it really can't cope with a spinnaker in a lot of wind.

Now for what you are trying to do, there are a few layers to the problem. One 
is the total current the drive transistors can control. There is no way the old 
4000 could ever power a hydraulic drive. Maybe the EV-100 can sink that much 
current?? The next issue is the solenoid valve. Hydraulic units lock the rudder 
in place when the autopilot is on by closing a bypass valve and opening the 
valve allows you to steer by hand again. You would need to rig something to 
operate that valve. You could just have a switch on it you activate yourself, 
but this has an obvious pitfall if anyone but you is running the boat. The last 
issue is the algorithm the autopilot uses to steer the boat. You really would 
want a rudder reference and even then I can't say for sure how well the 
autopilot would adapt to a much different level of response than it expects 
from a wimpy wheel drive. You need the autopilot to NOT try ramming the rudder 
into the stops with full force. The wheel pilot can do that and not break 
anything, hydraulics not so much.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I

Re: Stus-List Ginkgo/C 30-09/1971, Gloucester, Massachusetts

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Thank you Ken.

Rich’s boat and mine pre-date the November 1972 standard, so the format 
documented at the links below doesn’t apply to our boats.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 15, 2019, at 3:15 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> http://www.usps.org/national/safety/HIN/HIN.pdf 
>  
> 
>  https://www.boatsafe.com/hull-id-numbers/ 
> 
> 
> AUG
> SEP
> OCT
> NOV
> DEC
> JAN   A
> B
> C
> D
> E
> F FEB
> MAR
> APR
> MAY
> JUN
> JUL   G
> H
> I
> J
> K
> L

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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Jack Shincke via CnC-List]

Jack ShinckeJody VC and C 29-269141Olympia, WA


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad


On Monday, October 14, 2019, 5:08 PM, Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Edd,
Chuck BorgeTenaciousC 41, 198433711Somerset, machuckbo...@gmail.com
Thanks for keeping a contingency plan for the list.Best regards,Chuck

Chuck Borge508-642-3557


On Thu, Oct 3, 2019 at 4:53 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers,
In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin board 
/ photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that will act as a 
supplement and perhaps one day, only when Stu says he’s no longer interested in 
continuing on, act as a replacement to the service we are using now.
I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a moment, 
please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct email to 
me) with the following information:
Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home 
Port
For example:Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B 
/ e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL
Thanks to all. 
And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter haul-out 
and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"
All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayCaptain of the Starship EnterpriseC 37+ | Sail No: 
NCC-1701-BVenice Yacht Club | Venice, FL 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Mark A Watson via CnC-List]

Ed and Stu thank you 

Mark Watson 
Trinity 
C Newport 41 s. 1977
Hull number: CPY41082M77L
Sausalito CA USA



> On Oct 4, 2019, at 9:01 AM, Jonathan Boocock via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Jonathan Boocock / Mor' Childs Play / C 44 / 1986 / 4411 / 
> jonbooc...@gmail.com / Kingston, ON
> 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Joe, great summary of the issues, thanks.
This is consistent with much of the information I've received so far.

   - The RS drive is electric, and requires 7A - less than most hydraulic
   drives.  Apparently it also offers less resistance when not in use.  The
   ACU 100 can supply just enough current (IIRC)
   - The RS also has an electrically operated clutch (equivalent to the
   solenoid you mention) and requires this capability in the autopilot control
   unit.   The Ray ACU 100 has no provision for this, the ACU-200 does.  As
   you mention, the possibility exists to control the clutch manually with a
   switch, and in any case the RS can be overridden by hauling on the wheel in
   an emergency,.  The ACU-200 was the smallest Ray ACU recommended by
   octopus, I believe this is due to the provision for the clutch..
   - The RS has an optional rudder position sensor that is gear-driven and
   mounts as a module on the drive motor assembly - so no
   separate installation hassle.   All Ray ACUs support this sensor.
   - The RS drive's motor is mounted remotely at the end of the supplied 6'
   bowden cable, on a 6"X6" plate, not sure of the height.  Longer cables are
   available.

It might be worth trying this setup with the ACU100 and saving a grand at
the risk of blowing the output fuse.  When asked about manually switching
the clutch, the tech at octopus gave me something like a non-answer.

Am going to mock up a drive/cable to ensure that I can make a really clean
install.   Will also explore local machine shops who might be able to
fabricate a tiller arm. (if anyone else is interested, please reach out,
and if anyone knows of a shop who can make one, would appreciate hearing
more..)  the edson unit seems very spendy for what it is.

Dave
 33-2 windstar.


- Forwarded message --
From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 12:31:01 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade -   UPDATE
I have the ancient predecessor to that autopilot, the old AH-4000. I
collect parts of them when I find them to have spares and recently was
messing around with my drive units. One of them was always undoing itself,
so I had a bungee for the lever to keep it on. The other one was doing the
opposite, it would slip when loaded up. Full power on the engine was enough
to make it slip. Apparently slipping is a belt too loose and popping off on
its own is a belt too tight. I managed to combine the best parts of the
slipping one with a couple other drives and a new belt and now I have one
that neither slips nor pops loose :) I think the newer grey ones have a
much easier way to adjust the belt. If your drive pops the lever loose on
its own, try loosening the belt a bit.
The EV-100 should be vastly superior to my old AH-4000 course computers.
Mine will drive a ruler straight line upwind or in calm conditions, but
following seas can confuse it and it really can't cope with a spinnaker in
a lot of wind.

Now for what you are trying to do, there are a few layers to the problem.
One is the total current the drive transistors can control. There is no way
the old 4000 could ever power a hydraulic drive. Maybe the EV-100 can sink
that much current?? The next issue is the solenoid valve. Hydraulic units
lock the rudder in place when the autopilot is on by closing a bypass valve
and opening the valve allows you to steer by hand again. You would need to
rig something to operate that valve. You could just have a switch on it you
activate yourself, but this has an obvious pitfall if anyone but you is
running the boat. The last issue is the algorithm the autopilot uses to
steer the boat. You really would want a rudder reference and even then I
can't say for sure how well the autopilot would adapt to a much different
level of response than it expects from a wimpy wheel drive. You need the
autopilot to NOT try ramming the rudder into the stops with full force. The
wheel pilot can do that and not break anything, hydraulics not so much.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com
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Re: Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Pro Tip: You may one day have to slip your anchor and escape some danger in a 
real hurry. Tie about 20 feet of thin nylon line to the bitter end of the chain 
and the other end to the boat someplace in the anchor locker. You can slip the 
chain and cut the line quickly.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


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Re: Stus-List windlass and chain without a snubber, good way to lose a boat

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I use a rugged chain stopper to take the load off the windlass.

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Oct 14, 2019, at 7:03 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The snubber performs several functions; it takes strain off the windlass, it 
> stops the chain clunking as the boat swings ( don’t know about you guys, but 
> Masquerade dances around on the hook, it provides just a little more shock 
> absorption when the breeze is strong enough to stretch out the chain.
> Andy
> Masquerade
> Currently in Oxford, MD
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA02842
> 
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 18:39, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Isn't that what catenary in the anchor chain is for?
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 4:42 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I think the use of a snubber is a small part of the problem here.  First, 
>>> he never should have anchored near the path of a high-speed ferry.  Second, 
>>> he should have tied the end of his anchor chain to the boat so it couldn’t 
>>> have gotten loose overboard.  I have never used a snubber on my anchor 
>>> chain and I don’t think it would have made much of a difference in this 
>>> case.  That’s just my opinion...
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> Bob Boyer
>>> s/v Rainy Days
>>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>>> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
>>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>>> 
> On Oct 14, 2019, at 12:13 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
 Anyone who uses a windlass and chain without a snubber should watch this 
 video.  Note in the video that there is a statement pointing the blame on 
 ferry boat wake rather than on the owner failure to use of a snubber by 
 saying "very very few people actually use a snubber”.   
 
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vdaxrGfT1M
 
 
 -
 Paul E.
 1981 C Landfall 38 
 S/V Johanna Rose
 Fort Walton Beach, FL
 
 http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine to octopus drive upgrade - UPDATE

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have the ancient predecessor to that autopilot, the old AH-4000. I collect 
parts of them when I find them to have spares and recently was messing around 
with my drive units. One of them was always undoing itself, so I had a bungee 
for the lever to keep it on. The other one was doing the opposite, it would 
slip when loaded up. Full power on the engine was enough to make it slip. 
Apparently slipping is a belt too loose and popping off on its own is a belt 
too tight. I managed to combine the best parts of the slipping one with a 
couple other drives and a new belt and now I have one that neither slips nor 
pops loose :) I think the newer grey ones have a much easier way to adjust the 
belt. If your drive pops the lever loose on its own, try loosening the belt a 
bit.
The EV-100 should be vastly superior to my old AH-4000 course computers. Mine 
will drive a ruler straight line upwind or in calm conditions, but following 
seas can confuse it and it really can't cope with a spinnaker in a lot of wind.

Now for what you are trying to do, there are a few layers to the problem. One 
is the total current the drive transistors can control. There is no way the old 
4000 could ever power a hydraulic drive. Maybe the EV-100 can sink that much 
current?? The next issue is the solenoid valve. Hydraulic units lock the rudder 
in place when the autopilot is on by closing a bypass valve and opening the 
valve allows you to steer by hand again. You would need to rig something to 
operate that valve. You could just have a switch on it you activate yourself, 
but this has an obvious pitfall if anyone but you is running the boat. The last 
issue is the algorithm the autopilot uses to steer the boat. You really would 
want a rudder reference and even then I can't say for sure how well the 
autopilot would adapt to a much different level of response than it expects 
from a wimpy wheel drive. You need the autopilot to NOT try ramming the rudder 
into the stops with full force. The wheel pilot can do that and not break 
anything, hydraulics not so much.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


___

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Stus-List One step forward and one step back

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have been feeling like I have a bunch of seaweed on the prop or something. 
Even right after a bottom cleaning, full throttle got me maybe 5.8 knots and 5 
inches manifold was more like 5.2. A different diver than the usual one was in 
the water near my boat and I asked him to go over and do mine too. Saturday we 
headed out to Rock Hall and WOW the boat felt different. I was doing 5.8 knots 
at 6-7 inches manifold and hit 6.7 without even hitting full throttle ☺ Too bad 
the wind was essentially 0 or I could have seen how much faster I could sail 
too. This new diver is obviously WAY better. (I have had a sinus infection 
issue and not been diving in our not too clean marina myself lately)
Everything was going perfect until the CO detector went off on the way home. I 
went to check for exhaust leaks once we got tied up and the riser broke in half 
in my hands ☹ It was corroding right at a threaded junction and seeping water 
and exhaust. This is bad timing with St. Michaels next week! Hopefully the new 
parts will be at my house today and I can get it put back together tonight. 
Most of it is just Home Depot black iron pipe but there is a flange unique to 
Atomic 4s you can’t just buy at the store these days.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


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Re: Stus-List Ginkgo/C 30-09/1971, Gloucester, Massachusetts

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

http://www.usps.org/national/safety/HIN/HIN.pdf

 https://www.boatsafe.com/hull-id-numbers/

AUG
SEP
OCT
NOV
DEC
JAN A
B
C
D
E
F FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL G
H
I
J
K
L

On Mon, 14 Oct 2019 at 15:24, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not computer savy enough to search archives, but I seem to recall an email
> that said that the calendar year was not in effect in the ddating process.
> Seems it started in AUG or such???
> The posting also gave the letters for each month.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
> On Monday, October 14, 2019, 11:12:53 AM CDT, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> I could be wrong but I think HIN numbers are supposed be molded into a new
> hull with the date meaning "when they laid the keel".
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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