Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Shawn,
On my 34 the deck to bulkhead fittings also leaked and as I found out were 
installed through cored laminate that had rotted so they were not doing much 
good. I recored the deck and used a piece of ~6x6” 1/2 inch thick g10 
fiberglass in place of balsa where the tang bolts. Planning on cutting the slot 
in that and through bolting it again so hopefully it will be stiff enough not 
to leak. I am assuming that they are structurally required so I plan on putting 
them back. 

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

A 1974 can't be the Northeast 39, but the older model C&C 39 with sweptback 
shark fin keel and pinched stern of that era.  Based on the PHRF for the '74 
C&C 39 average of 105 and the '86 41 of 66, I'd predict the 39 is much slower 
but maybe more comfortable sailing offshore.  Their weights are very close at 
17000 and 17,500 and may take some wind to get going.  The 41 is roomier on 
deck as well as inside.  On deck the crew walk outside the shrouds, and the 
genoa sets between the shrouds and the lifelines.  On the 39, crew have to 
squeeze inside the shrouds and the genoa sets outside the lifelines. 

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-39

https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41

Chuck S


> On June 9, 2020 at 6:43 AM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Had a ‘86 41 and am looking at a ‘74 39. Does anyone have comments on the 
> differences/advantages? Thanks, Will
> 
> Will Gerstmyer 
> 978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Our 35-2 has plenty of creaks but she still feels tough. I understand the
grid reinforcement that C&C and most others switched to in the late
70s/early 80s is responsible for a lot of the stiffness of the later boats.
In our case, the tangs holding the top of the forward bulkheads to the deck
were removed by a previous owner, so the plywood now floats in the liner
grooves, which I think is where most of the creaks originate. I do wonder
if the boat would creak less if those tangs were still in place. I suspect
they leaked, and that is why they were removed. I'm curious how the later
boats deal with the connection between bulkheads and the deck/liner, and if
there is any way to improve things on ours.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 1:13 PM Glenn Henderson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have driven our 41 mercilessly. Not because I want to abuse the boat,
> she seems to thrive in it. She just feels very tough. We have no creaks or
> groans except for the forward cabin door that came loose because of the
> motion. The 41 is an impressive design.
>
> Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
> C&C 41
> WeGo
> Treasure Island, FL
>
>
>
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Harry Hallgring.

Owner of Mirage, Northeast 39 lying NEB.

Years ago after delivering a J-120 to NEB.  I walked over and talked to him at 
length. I was contemplating the colors that I might paint “Ronin” and was 
leaning to some of green. I had been really impressed with the color that Harry 
painted Mirage and when seeing it outside, up close and in the water I was sold.

Very nice guy. FWIW, he didn’t do that much of the work. Basically payment in 
kind for the work he does for NEB. As I recall, and I may be wrong, but he was 
a retired fire chief.

Anyway, you may see some similarity between his boat and mine.  ;-)

Columbia Grey 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The fellow who owns that NorthEast was on the list for a time, he posted a 
> lot of his progress pictures as he refurbished that boat, I believe he works 
> at the Portsmouth yard.  So he really knew what he was doing.  He did a 
> bang-up job on it. Having done a lot of that work on my 39 I would say buying 
> something like that, that some poor dreamer did all the hard work on, with 
> blood, sweat, and tears is the only way I would buy a boat now, because you 
> probably only make a quarter an hour for all your hard labor. If that.
> 
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/c-c-39-northeast-3607801/
> 
> It does scream IOR, tho - - -
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
> 
> -Original Message-

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Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Understand the vendor wants to make it right.  But wondering what other
alternatives would be if castings weren't available or if someone chose not
to replace them.  Does the radius match commonly available teak outside
corner fittings, I wonder?  I'm guessing the profile wouldn't match exactly.

I think there is a custom teak shop somewhere that could make some to match
perhaps.
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Glenn Henderson via CnC-List]

I have driven our 41 mercilessly. Not because I want to abuse the boat, she
seems to thrive in it. She just feels very tough. We have no creaks or
groans except for the forward cabin door that came loose because of the
motion. The 41 is an impressive design.

Glenn and Lindsey Henderson
C&C 41
WeGo
Treasure Island, FL



>
>
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Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Yeah, the coating shop felt terrible. Yours to powder, mine into puddles...
Vendor promises to make it right though.

Wonder what the material is...?

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020, 08:53 Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Interesting . . . .
>
>
>
> I didn’t think there were stainless ones there  . . . . but I got the
> painted ones from Rob at South Shore . . . (after I tried powder-coating
> the old ones – which turned into powder) . . .
>
>
>
> While working here at Edson, we did a stainless version for Barry Carroll
> to use on his boats, but sadly we stopped casting them – too expensive  . .
> . . I have one on my desk for decoration . . .
>
>
>
> Rob Ball,  C&C 34
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Ummm . . .  I don’t mean to ruffle any feathers Matt, but my recollection is 
that I was usually ahead of you . . . .

Well, OK, unless it was a long spinnaker run.  You are more fearless. 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matt Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

 

My 42 Custom is rated 81, and Bill would hang in there boat for boat (often 
with only two or three people on board).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jack Fitzgerald via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 8:37 AM
To: C&CList 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

 

According to Robert Perry, the C&C 39 is the prettiest fiberglass sail boat 
built. I have owned my 1974 39TM since 1976 and really have no complaints. Sure 
there are issues with the fact that boat is getting old but I have maintained & 
updated her to the point that she is actually a better boat now than when she 
was new. She still wins races when we sail her correctly in spite is have a 
local PHRF rating of 102. She likes a breeze and is a very good sea boat, she 
can be a little wet going to weather in a chop but not much differn t than any 
other boat that I have sail on over the past 44+ years.

 

Bill Coleman on this list should be able to comment on the C&C 39 as well.

 

Good luck

 

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 

HONEY - US12788 

Savannah, GA USA

 

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you

 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 6:44 AM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Had a ‘86 41 and am looking at a ‘74 39. Does anyone have comments on the 
differences/advantages? Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer 
978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The fellow who owns that NorthEast was on the list for a time, he posted a lot 
of his progress pictures as he refurbished that boat, I believe he works at the 
Portsmouth yard.  So he really knew what he was doing.  He did a bang-up job on 
it. Having done a lot of that work on my 39 I would say buying something like 
that, that some poor dreamer did all the hard work on, with blood, sweat, and 
tears is the only way I would buy a boat now, because you probably only make a 
quarter an hour for all your hard labor. If that.

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/c-c-39-northeast-3607801/

It does scream IOR, tho - - -

Bill Coleman
Erie PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Borge 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 10:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

Yikes!
I stand corrected. The Northeast 39 is a beautiful design, regardless. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 10:29 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Wow - Different boats . . .
> 
> The C&C 39 was designed before the C&C actual formation - before the IOR rule 
>  . . .
> 
> The C&C 41 is a much later design - much larger (longer waterline) designed 
> in the hayday of IOR . . .
> 
> The Northeast 39 was a limited production run at the Custom Shop - higher 
> level of construction . . . 
> 
> I'm not that familiar with the construction details of the 39 (before my 
> time) . . .
> The 41 I think of as robust powerful boat . . .
> The northeast I think of as refined  . . . .
> 
> Rob Ball   C&C 34
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Excellent explanation. When I check my impeller in the spring I just massage it 
with Vaseline.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 10:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Typical closed/freshwater/glycol loop pump with standard metal impeller.
> 
> See attached photo.
> 
> Josh 
> <8e603537-45f9-4ab0-8ea5-be34b3778838.jpeg>
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

45 years ago, accidental jibe on my Star – Watched in slow motion as the top of 
the mast curled around and came down. Decided then and there, no more Running 
backs for this kid.

 

Bill Coleman,

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2020 5:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

 

Yup.  One of the reasons I did not go for the 41 were running backs.Big 
PIA.   

 

David F. Risch

(401) 419-4650

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 8, 2020 5:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Backstays 35 MKIII

 

Stupid things running backs. Make hardly no good difference on a C&C 35 foot 
boat. Always getting in the way. Few C&C sailors know how to use them. Good luck

 

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:28 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Possibly C&C changed the mast section, and started using running backs. Hardest 
thing about using running backs is remembering to relax the leeward one and 
tensioning the windward one when tacking and gybing.

 

Alan

 

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 7:31 AM David Swensen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Alan,

Mine is hull # 198

David

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-- 

Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Yikes!
I stand corrected. The Northeast 39 is a beautiful design, regardless. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 10:29 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Wow - Different boats . . .
> 
> The C&C 39 was designed before the C&C actual formation - before the IOR rule 
>  . . .
> 
> The C&C 41 is a much later design - much larger (longer waterline) designed 
> in the hayday of IOR . . .
> 
> The Northeast 39 was a limited production run at the Custom Shop - higher 
> level of construction . . . 
> 
> I'm not that familiar with the construction details of the 39 (before my 
> time) . . .
> The 41 I think of as robust powerful boat . . .
> The northeast I think of as refined  . . . .
> 
> Rob Ball   C&C 34
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

While we're on the subject of water pumps for Universal diesels,
remember that Oberdorfer now makes a replacement pump (N202M-908) for the
OEM G908 Sherwood raw water pumps that came on many Universal diesels (M-12,
M-18, M20, M-25, M-25XP, M30, M40, M50).  The Oberdorfer is not only
cheaper but the impeller can be changed from the front.  Much easier than
the Sherwood.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Wow - Different boats . . .

The C&C 39 was designed before the C&C actual formation - before the IOR rule  
. . .

The C&C 41 is a much later design - much larger (longer waterline) designed in 
the hayday of IOR . . .

The Northeast 39 was a limited production run at the Custom Shop - higher level 
of construction . . . 

I'm not that familiar with the construction details of the 39 (before my time) 
. . .
The 41 I think of as robust powerful boat . . .
The northeast I think of as refined  . . . .

Rob Ball   C&C 34
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Typical closed/freshwater/glycol loop pump with standard metal impeller.

See attached photo.

Josh
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Centrifugal pump theory.

https://youtu.be/lmjIQqo8mX4

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 11:47 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the
> cooling system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water
> very slowly. I now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this
> time of year and it was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with
> lots of hot water after an extended motoring session at speed as opposed to
> idling at the mooring. However, it made me think about this side of the
> cooling system.  Presumably, minimal fresh water circulates through the
> heat exchanger until the thermostat opens.  My question is, what drives
> that water circulation.  I know to check the impeller on the raw water pump
> side periodically, but I have seen no mention of doing the same for a water
> pump on the fresh water side.  That pump appears to be pretty inaccessible
> on my engine anyway and nothing in the routine maintenance section talks
> about periodic replacement of an impeller there.  So I am guessing it does
> not have an impeller that needs replacement, but I can’t find anything
> relevant in the manual.  Thanks- Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

This is not exactly how the flexible vane pumps work but pretty close.  The
idea of expanding and contracting volumes is well shown.

https://youtu.be/L30JpM8Lv_A

Josh

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 11:47 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the
> cooling system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water
> very slowly. I now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this
> time of year and it was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with
> lots of hot water after an extended motoring session at speed as opposed to
> idling at the mooring. However, it made me think about this side of the
> cooling system.  Presumably, minimal fresh water circulates through the
> heat exchanger until the thermostat opens.  My question is, what drives
> that water circulation.  I know to check the impeller on the raw water pump
> side periodically, but I have seen no mention of doing the same for a water
> pump on the fresh water side.  That pump appears to be pretty inaccessible
> on my engine anyway and nothing in the routine maintenance section talks
> about periodic replacement of an impeller there.  So I am guessing it does
> not have an impeller that needs replacement, but I can’t find anything
> relevant in the manual.  Thanks- Dave
>
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The glycol closed circuit is referred to as the freshwater loop.  This loop
is circulated the same way as the coolant in your car.  A pump half shell
is mounted to the engine block which makes up the other half. The two
halves sandwich a metal impeller which creates the driving force, works on
the principle of centrifugal force, and needs no maintenance except for the
upkeep of glycol/coolant chemistry (change it every 5 years).  The
temperature in this system is maintained by a thermostat which throttles
the amount of water allowed to pass through the heat exchanger (radiator in
your car).

The open loop coolant system has water that flows in from the surrounding
body of water, cools engine heat exchanger (glycol loop), exhaust riser,
exhaust muffler, and then back out to the body of water.  This is
equivalent to air passing over the radiator in your car.  The water may be
fresh or salt depending on the body of water but this can create confusion
since the glycol loop is sometimes referred to as the fresh water circuit.
And the glycol engines are called freshwater cooled.  So for clarity the
sea water loop can be called the RAW water circuit.  It is the water which
you see exiting the boat at the exhaust.  It is also the water for which
you have to open the through hull.  Since it is RAW - air, sand small
particulates, silt, etc. can get into the water and if the pump was not
designed to pass this trash as well as self prime then the entire system
would not be very reliable.  As such a rubber vane impeller pump is used to
provide the movement of water.  These pumps are NOT centrifugal pumps but
rather work on a positive displacement principle.  Instead of drawing water
in the middle of the casing and slinging the water outwards to build
pressure, they simply create expanding volumes on the inlet side and
contracting areas on the outlet.

The rubber vanes allow for trash to be pushed through without damaging the
impeller or casing.  Since the expanding area on the inlet is a sealed area
it creates a vacuum and will allow the pump to self prime (remove air).
Unfortunately the impeller cover creates this seal by pressing on the
impeller itself.  The rubber vanes in contact with the case and the
impeller face in contact with the cover create a high friction interface
which will heat up quickly if not cooled or lubricated (something to check
by hand when feeling the exhaust riser).  In the off season the rubber can
dry out and stick to the metal surfaces resulting in torn impeller blades
and no raw water flow during the first start of the season.  Placing the
impeller in olive oil or dish soap during off season maintenance prevents
this.  As the impeller blades press on the metal casing they will wear and
(assuming that no other fate shortens the life of the impeller) this will
ultimately cause the impeller to fail to create enough suction to self
prime.  Eventually, even if it was primed, it would fail to keep the water
in the contracting volume and subsequently not pump water.

In short, there is rarely a rubber vane impeller pump used in the
freshwater/glycol/closed cooling loop and as such it will not need
maintenance.  Just replace it when/if the shaft seal fails.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020, 09:07 David Knecht via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi John- My manual makes no maintenance period recommendation for the
> fresh water impeller.  Not mentioned in maintenance at all.  Does yours?  I
> am unclear on why the raw water needs periodic maintenance and the fresh
> water does not.  Is it a similar rubber impeller?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 9, 2020, at 8:47 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just rebuilt my freshwater pump on my 3HM  which was done aftermarket as
> it covers the engine ID plate.
> Was leaking just a bit but the bit caused some rust  and ceased the engine
> kill switch on that side of engine
> Needed impeller change anyway ;)
>
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On Jun 8, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> David,
> You have a circulating pump usually driven by a belt off of the crank
> pulley, also this belt drives the alternator.  This pump usually doesn't
> require any maintenance. There is a weep hole below the shaft to signal
> when a seal has failed. There is a thermostat that controls the temperature
> of the engine, on the output side of the fresh water side of the cooling
> system before the coolant enters the heat exchanger. Once again not much
> maintenance required unless the engine is either too hot or not getting to
> temp, around 180 deg f.
>
> Hope this helps.
> Doug
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 8:47 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the
>> cooling system of my Universal M4-30 

Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Will,

There is a 1985 Northeast 39 here in Portsmouth that is nearly the same boat as 
the 41, and was completely refit. I nearly scooped it up before I took on 
repairing mine. 
Worth a look. It’s listed on yachtworld.  I think there is room to negotiate. 

Also, I’m still thinking about the #2, will contact you directly on that later. 

Best regards,
Chuck B
C&C 41
Tenacious
Somerset, MA


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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes similar  impeller,
Almost all tabs were cracked  badly at base on  both sides Of center
And pump needs to be loosened / removed to Get Belt back on  anyway
The wheel on the pump had a sleeve inside which needs to be put in correctly so 
they set screw can get all the way to the shaft of the pump if that makes any 
sense
I have pics

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 9, 2020, at 9:08 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Hi John- My manual makes no maintenance period recommendation for the fresh 
water impeller.  Not mentioned in maintenance at all.  Does yours?  I am 
unclear on why the raw water needs periodic maintenance and the fresh water 
does not.  Is it a similar rubber impeller?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



On Jun 9, 2020, at 8:47 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Just rebuilt my freshwater pump on my 3HM  which was done aftermarket as it 
covers the engine ID plate.
Was leaking just a bit but the bit caused some rust  and ceased the engine kill 
switch on that side of engine
Needed impeller change anyway ;)


John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 8, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


David,
You have a circulating pump usually driven by a belt off of the crank pulley, 
also this belt drives the alternator.  This pump usually doesn't require any 
maintenance. There is a weep hole below the shaft to signal when a seal has 
failed. There is a thermostat that controls the temperature of the engine, on 
the output side of the fresh water side of the cooling system before the 
coolant enters the heat exchanger. Once again not much maintenance required 
unless the engine is either too hot or not getting to temp, around 180 deg f.

Hope this helps.
Doug

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 8:47 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the cooling 
system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water very slowly. I 
now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this time of year and it 
was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with lots of hot water after an 
extended motoring session at speed as opposed to idling at the mooring. 
However, it made me think about this side of the cooling system.  Presumably, 
minimal fresh water circulates through the heat exchanger until the thermostat 
opens.  My question is, what drives that water circulation.  I know to check 
the impeller on the raw water pump side periodically, but I have seen no 
mention of doing the same for a water pump on the fresh water side.  That pump 
appears to be pretty inaccessible on my engine anyway and nothing in the 
routine maintenance section talks about periodic replacement of an impeller 
there.  So I am guessing it does not have an impeller that needs replacement, 
but I can’t find anything relevant in the manual.  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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--
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C&C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi John- My manual makes no maintenance period recommendation for the fresh 
water impeller.  Not mentioned in maintenance at all.  Does yours?  I am 
unclear on why the raw water needs periodic maintenance and the fresh water 
does not.  Is it a similar rubber impeller?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 9, 2020, at 8:47 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just rebuilt my freshwater pump on my 3HM  which was done aftermarket as it 
> covers the engine ID plate. 
> Was leaking just a bit but the bit caused some rust  and ceased the engine 
> kill switch on that side of engine 
> Needed impeller change anyway ;) 
> 
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
> 
> 
>> On Jun 8, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> David,
>> You have a circulating pump usually driven by a belt off of the crank 
>> pulley, also this belt drives the alternator.  This pump usually doesn't 
>> require any maintenance. There is a weep hole below the shaft to signal when 
>> a seal has failed. There is a thermostat that controls the temperature of 
>> the engine, on the output side of the fresh water side of the cooling system 
>> before the coolant enters the heat exchanger. Once again not much 
>> maintenance required unless the engine is either too hot or not getting to 
>> temp, around 180 deg f. 
>> 
>> Hope this helps.
>> Doug
>> 
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 8:47 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the 
>> cooling system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water 
>> very slowly. I now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this 
>> time of year and it was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with 
>> lots of hot water after an extended motoring session at speed as opposed to 
>> idling at the mooring. However, it made me think about this side of the 
>> cooling system.  Presumably, minimal fresh water circulates through the heat 
>> exchanger until the thermostat opens.  My question is, what drives that 
>> water circulation.  I know to check the impeller on the raw water pump side 
>> periodically, but I have seen no mention of doing the same for a water pump 
>> on the fresh water side.  That pump appears to be pretty inaccessible on my 
>> engine anyway and nothing in the routine maintenance section talks about 
>> periodic replacement of an impeller there.  So I am guessing it does not 
>> have an impeller that needs replacement, but I can’t find anything relevant 
>> in the manual.  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> David Knecht
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Douglas Mountjoy
>> 253-208-1412
>> Port Orchard YC, WA
>> Rebecca Leah
>> C&C LandFall 39
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Love to see a pic of the stainless fiddles, wowza!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 9, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List  wrote:


Interesting . . . .

I didn’t think there were stainless ones there  . . . . but I got the painted 
ones from Rob at South Shore . . . (after I tried powder-coating the old ones – 
which turned into powder) . . .

While working here at Edson, we did a stainless version for Barry Carroll to 
use on his boats, but sadly we stopped casting them – too expensive  . . . . I 
have one on my desk for decoration . . .

Rob Ball,  C&C 34

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Re: Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Interesting . . . .

I didn’t think there were stainless ones there  . . . . but I got the painted 
ones from Rob at South Shore . . . (after I tried powder-coating the old ones – 
which turned into powder) . . .

While working here at Edson, we did a stainless version for Barry Carroll to 
use on his boats, but sadly we stopped casting them – too expensive  . . . . I 
have one on my desk for decoration . . .

Rob Ball,  C&C 34

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Re: Stus-List Universal water pump

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Just rebuilt my freshwater pump on my 3HM  which was done aftermarket as it 
covers the engine ID plate.
Was leaking just a bit but the bit caused some rust  and ceased the engine kill 
switch on that side of engine
Needed impeller change anyway ;)


John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 8, 2020, at 12:02 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
wrote:


David,
You have a circulating pump usually driven by a belt off of the crank pulley, 
also this belt drives the alternator.  This pump usually doesn't require any 
maintenance. There is a weep hole below the shaft to signal when a seal has 
failed. There is a thermostat that controls the temperature of the engine, on 
the output side of the fresh water side of the cooling system before the 
coolant enters the heat exchanger. Once again not much maintenance required 
unless the engine is either too hot or not getting to temp, around 180 deg f.

Hope this helps.
Doug

On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 8:47 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I thought I might have had a problem with the fresh water side of the cooling 
system of my Universal M4-30 engine because it was heating water very slowly. I 
now think that it is just that the sea water is cold this time of year and it 
was taking longer than I expected. All was fine with lots of hot water after an 
extended motoring session at speed as opposed to idling at the mooring. 
However, it made me think about this side of the cooling system.  Presumably, 
minimal fresh water circulates through the heat exchanger until the thermostat 
opens.  My question is, what drives that water circulation.  I know to check 
the impeller on the raw water pump side periodically, but I have seen no 
mention of doing the same for a water pump on the fresh water side.  That pump 
appears to be pretty inaccessible on my engine anyway and nothing in the 
routine maintenance section talks about periodic replacement of an impeller 
there.  So I am guessing it does not have an impeller that needs replacement, 
but I can’t find anything relevant in the manual.  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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--
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C&C LandFall 39
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

My 42 Custom is rated 81, and Bill would hang in there boat for boat (often 
with only two or three people on board).

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Jack Fitzgerald via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 8:37 AM
To: C&CList 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

 

According to Robert Perry, the C&C 39 is the prettiest fiberglass sail boat 
built. I have owned my 1974 39TM since 1976 and really have no complaints. Sure 
there are issues with the fact that boat is getting old but I have maintained & 
updated her to the point that she is actually a better boat now than when she 
was new. She still wins races when we sail her correctly in spite is have a 
local PHRF rating of 102. She likes a breeze and is a very good sea boat, she 
can be a little wet going to weather in a chop but not much differn t than any 
other boat that I have sail on over the past 44+ years.

 

Bill Coleman on this list should be able to comment on the C&C 39 as well.

 

Good luck

 

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 

HONEY - US12788 

Savannah, GA USA

 

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you

 

 

 

On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 6:44 AM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Had a ‘86 41 and am looking at a ‘74 39. Does anyone have comments on the 
differences/advantages? Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer 
978-609-1331
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Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

According to Robert Perry, the C&C 39 is the prettiest fiberglass sail
boat built. I have owned my 1974 39TM since 1976 and really have no
complaints. Sure there are issues with the fact that boat is getting old
but I have maintained & updated her to the point that she is actually a
better boat now than when she was new. She still wins races when we sail
her correctly in spite is have a local PHRF rating of 102. She likes a
breeze and is a very good sea boat, she can be a little wet going to
weather in a chop but not much differn t than any other boat that I have
sail on over the past 44+ years.

Bill Coleman on this list should be able to comment on the C&C 39 as well.

Good luck

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY - US12788
Savannah, GA USA

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you



On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 6:44 AM Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Had a ‘86 41 and am looking at a ‘74 39. Does anyone have comments on the
> differences/advantages? Thanks, Will
>
> Will Gerstmyer
> 978-609-1331
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Re fiddle castings.

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Call South Shore Yachts. They have them in stainless steel.  Please be
seated with a cold beverage and an empty paper bag when you get a quote.
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Stus-List White rudder

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi John

Over 20 years painted blue - no issues.  Might be an issue if the rudder is
saturated with water which would heat up on land during summer


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
McCrea via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 08, 2020 9:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John McCrea
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 32

Hello all. Wondering what the group thinks about painting the rudders white?
I always did this on my 89 Ericson 32 as I was told they had issues. When we
bought our 89 37xl it was not white and left it that way. When we bought our
current 1979 36, it was white. The past two years I have painted it the same
blue as the bottom. One of the workers at my yard suggested I reconsider, as
he has seen C&C rudders fail due to sun/heat exposure while on land. Thanks!


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Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List]

Had a ‘86 41 and am looking at a ‘74 39. Does anyone have comments on the 
differences/advantages? Thanks, Will

Will Gerstmyer 
978-609-1331
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