Re: Stus-List Sanitation Issues

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Check the nipple going into your tank. Could be clogged . Doug Mountjoysv 
Rebecca Leah C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
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Stus-List Sea Hood screws

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi guys,
Just following up on screws attaching the sea hood on a C 34R.  

I learned this weekend, I was wrong thinking there was balsa.  The material 
behind the fiberglass skin in raised area along the slider is some kind of 
white filler, maybe thickened epoxy.  The original screws are #8 SS flat head x 
1" and the I looked at all the holes and found very few had any gel coat cracks 
so it's a good system for wood screws.  Nice job C

I overbored those holes that showed cracks and filled with Thixo Flexible epoxy 
from a caulk gun.   I will drill 1/8" pilot holes after I finish painting the 
deck.  Since I am rebedding hardware and prepping for painting the deck, I 
overbored holes for the fairleads, clutches, and handrails, and ground out 
spider cracks in the gel coat.  These all got filled with Thixo Flex after 
priming with neat epoxy.   

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md


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Re: Stus-List Sanitation Issues

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Check your vent.  Sounds clogged.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Peter Cowenhoven 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, June 28, 2020 10:19:59 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Peter Cowenhoven 
Subject: Stus-List Sanitation Issues

This is a wierd one.  My marine head set up is direct to tank or direct 
overboard controlled by a Y valve.  I've had issues with pressure in the system 
so I have been leaving the cap slighty open.

I'm having an issue with somehow nothing going to the tank even though you hear 
it but the pumpout hose from the tank fills up while the tank doesn't??

I know there isn't a clog from toilet to tank as I just replaced all the hoses 
to the tank, the y valve and the head??

Any thoughts?  How the hell is the pumpout hose getting filled but not the tank?

Thanks so much on advance.

Peter
84 Landfall 35
Westbrook, CT


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Android
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Stus-List CnC-List Digest - C 121

[RLT via CnC-List]

Recently stepped into a 2000  C 121 and had a few questions on options others have pursued or attempted?1) throttle/shifter location - my observation is that the location on the lower starboard bench is an odd location, somewhat inconvenient by design.  I have seen some models with the Edson pedestal shifter installed.  Has anyone done this conversion?2) traveler shieves being frozen due to dirt and limited use.  Any thoughts on that, best way to remove clean and lube?  Replacement? Any upgrades done to the traveler?-- Regards,Bob TallmanC: 631.387.6748___

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Stus-List Sanitation Issues

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

This is a wierd one.  My marine head set up is direct to tank or direct 
overboard controlled by a Y valve.  I've had issues with pressure in the system 
so I have been leaving the cap slighty open.  
I'm having an issue with somehow nothing going to the tank even though you hear 
it but the pumpout hose from the tank fills up while the tank doesn't??   
I know there isn't a clog from toilet to tank as I just replaced all the hoses 
to the tank, the y valve and the head??
Any thoughts?  How the hell is the pumpout hose getting filled but not the tank?
Thanks so much on advance.
Peter84 Landfall 35Westbrook, CT


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Stus-List New boat in town

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Winds Aloft a  mid 90’s 34/36+ just landed here in Oriental NC, boat looks 
great and great condition has a wing keel ?
From Plymouth MI. Anyone know anything of this baby? Met new owner Looks nice, 
and he got a killer deal! Hoping to get him out there Wed. Nights and also Join 
the PHRF fleet. New owner was a big time Star sailor and did alot of racing 
So Nice to see another C here ! 

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net

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Stus-List Broken pin in connector.

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

If you or someone you know is really good with a fine tip soldering iron,
you could solder a small wire to the broken pin and pull it out.
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Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I could use the ICOM tech info
Need to replace the whole line from what I am reading? And   not just male pin 
piece Correct
Thanks

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 28, 2020, at 7:51 PM, John Conklin  wrote:

 I have similar issue Ram mic works perfect  but somehow probably a kick or 
push several Male pins are bend (all present) and the connection cannot be made
Trip to my local West marine yielded  no info or part for this Icom radio :(
Any help is appreciated.  Small Tweezers maybe ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 25, 2020, at 8:51 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:


I will send Stu $20 right now Joe

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector


I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.

It looks like this: 
https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg

The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.

It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 for Stu 
and it's yours :)

Joe

Coquina
On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found that 
one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck in side 
the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works perfectly (or 
did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male socket that is 
attached to the hull.

The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be quite 
expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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___

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Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I have similar issue Ram mic works perfect  but somehow probably a kick or push 
several Male pins are bend (all present) and the connection cannot be made
Trip to my local West marine yielded  no info or part for this Icom radio :(
Any help is appreciated.  Small Tweezers maybe ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 25, 2020, at 8:51 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
wrote:


I will send Stu $20 right now Joe

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector


I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.

It looks like this: 
https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg

The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.

It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 for Stu 
and it's yours :)

Joe

Coquina
On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found that 
one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck in side 
the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works perfectly (or 
did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male socket that is 
attached to the hull.

The question is “How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket?”

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be quite 
expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I am in Durham Joe !
And have a home and Halcyon in Oriental  NC 
Washington is a 40 min ride from Oriental, and 2 hrs from Durham 
As far as sailing I did the trip to Washington 1x and no need to repeat it.  
Although it’s a great Little Town with tons of potential most days it’s it’s a 
straight motor for several hours  all the way up the Pamlico River 
Do hope to meet up with Rick Brass some day though, and the search will begin 
for the painter prob this fall.

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


> On Jun 26, 2020, at 6:18 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to move to Washington. Everything there costs a ton less than 
> Annapolis!!
> 
> * we actually have thought of it if work would let me stay home forever or at 
> least only go in once a week, our closest office is Durham.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
>> On 6/25/2020 10:07 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
>> Joe;
>> 
>> You might want to keep shopping for the Acrylic. When I rebuilt the 27x27
>> A foredeck hatch on Imzadi before the trip to Bermuda in 2017, I bought
>> the lens for my hatch from a local glass shop that does commercial windows.
>> They used the old lens as a template and drilled the  holes in the corners
>> for retaining screws and milled out the recesses and holes for the hatch
>> dogs. And the total cost was something like $75-80. Though they did have a
>> partial sheet of 1/2" material in inventory so they did not need to order a
>> new, complete sheet of the stuff.
>> 
>> The 1/2" seal for the hatch  came from Lowes, along with the 3M trim
>> adhesive to install it, some rubber and nylon washers to seal the hatch
>> dogs, and the 3M stuff to remove the silicone the PO had used to seal the
>> lens. The most expensive thing in the project was the Sika295 and primer to
>> glue the lens into the old frame after it had been cleaned up.
>> 
>> Fussy work, but very doable and fairly inexpensive compared to the cost of a
>> new hatch - particularly a new A hatch.
>> 
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

If you decide togo with a Beta you should think about getting the prop from
them too.  Beta sells the 'J' Prop, bronze three blade feathering prop,
made in Italy.  The pitch is adjustable (for fine tuning) with the prop
installed and the boat in the water.  A great product.  We've had one on
our boat with zero issues for over 12 years now.







On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 at 14:46, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> From everything I have seen, the Beta Marine engines are a great option.
> One of the biggest problems with engine replacement is getting the bedding
> correct.  Beta addresses this by designing mounts that are designed to be
> like for like with popular counterparts such as Yanmar and Universal.  From
> what I recall the price is about half that of a Yanmar and without the cost
> of a re-bed the Beta is very competitively priced.  I have a 30Hp Yanmar
> 3HM35F in my 37+ (40 ft) and often feel like it might be a little anemic.
> I would avoid turbo charged versions if at all possible.
>
> As for a feathering prop I have one (Max Prop).  I like the engineering
> but if doing the annual maintenance is something you would rather avoid
> then a fixed prop might be a better choice.  A fixed pitch prop requires a
> transmission that can freewheel/waterwheel or has a shaft break.  Check
> with each manufacturer.  The nice thing about the max prop or similar is
> that if you find that the boat is over pitched or under pitched you can
> adjust (not on the fly).  The new max props can be adjusted by a diver in
> the water, older style require a haul out.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 07:48 David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Repowered my old Bristol with a Beta.  Kubota based engine with parts
>> available all over the world inexpensively and was designed to be serviced
>> easily (e.g. built in oil pump).  Great engine and great service by Beta.
>> Go with 38.  Can upgrade your alternator and extra torque in a sloppy sea
>> when you need it.  You will love a feathering prop.
>>
>>
>>
>> *David F. Risch*
>>
>> *(401) 419-4650*
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Niemi via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 7:55 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Gary Niemi 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38
>>
>>
>>
>> We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C Landfall 38 to
>> New Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last
>> legs. It's not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating
>> in the last few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power
>> anyway. We're looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power
>> plant.
>>
>>
>>
>> So we have a couple of questions:
>>
>>
>>
>> What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp
>> 3HM or 3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a
>> smaller engine than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However,
>> we'd consider a 35 or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3
>> blade feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations
>> for that. The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We
>> never were able to get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can
>> you recommend something? What have people tried?
>>
>>
>>
>> Interested in hearing others' experiences.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Niemi
>> g...@niemi.co.nz
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

S/V Salazar - Can 54955

C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
C 37/40 XL Salazar 
-- 
"Nice? It's the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned
forward for his stroke. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing --
absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in
boats."

"Simply messing...about in boats -- or with boats... In or out of 'em it
doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether
you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination
or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at
all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when
you've done it there's always something else to do, and 

Re: Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep, those 4 bolts are most probably the strut bolts.  No big deal to drop
the strut a bit and re-bed it once you haul out.  Until then try to tighten
them.

As I am a bit pessimistic about successfully stopping the leak by
tightening the bolts, go to an auto parts store or a big box hardware store
and get a couple tubes of WaterWeld.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8277-White-Pack/dp/B000BRQ0TW

Work it up per instructions and apply it to the leaks.  At first it won't
seem like it's sticking but keep working it onto the leaks.  After 8-12
minutes it will finally stick.  Now you can finish your season.  At haul
out, you'll have a bit of work removing it but then you can fix the strut.

You may have to re-fair the strut after you re-bed it depending on how
speed oriented you are.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 2:41 PM David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My new to me 1985 35 MKIII was launched a week and a half ago. On the trip
> from Newport RI to Salem, MA last weekend, the bilge pump was getting a
> periodic workout. The water pump was leaking like a sieve, so as soon as I
> could I replaced the pump ( seals to bearings was toast so beyond rebuild).
> I thought my bilge pump could rest. Not so. It is still going off every 5
> -6 minutes, just for a quick burst, removing maybe a cup of water. After a
> sleepless night last night, I paddled out to the boat this morning and
> traced the leak to behind the propeller shaft log. There are 4 bolts that I
> could see after contorting myself behind the fuel tank. I assume they are
> mounting bolts for the strut. These bolts were wet and showed some
> corrosion,and were the apparent source of the stream of water legging under
> the engine and eventually to the bilge. The PO claimed the boat was bone
> dry (Not so said the boat yard in RI). The surveyor did not pick up on
> anything in this area. The boat had been on the hard for 2 years.
> I have a feeling this may be a short season and I will likely need to haul
> the boat to repair.  Has anyone had this problem?
>  Engine mounts are in need of replacement, too. Lots of shaking under 1800
> rpm. This is probably a contributing factor?
> Yes, I have a solar panel to try to keep the battery charged for the bilge
> pump.
> Thanks.
> David Swensen
> Freya
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi David

Ah, the surprises of a new (old) boat.  Good times.  Mine was leaking 
seacocks.


Probably worth trying to tighten the bolts for the strut while still in 
the water, I would.  I don't see it making anything worse.  Best access 
to that strut area would be to shut off the port cockpit drain seacock 
and pull off the hose from it, this will allow you to get back in there 
without as many contortions (but still not a good time).  I've spent 
quality time in there installing the autopilot, and also had the strut off.


If the bolts stick up enough it would be worth gently grasping the 
exposed end of the bolt to prevent it from spinning, and tighten the nut 
using an open end wrench.


And if the engine is a 3GM it is my understanding that a fair bit of 
shaking isn't unusual at low RPM, mine is fairly annoying at < 1000 
RPM.  It is OK at 1200 and up though.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2020-06-28 4:40 p.m., David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
My new to me 1985 35 MKIII was launched a week and a half ago. On the 
trip from Newport RI to Salem, MA last weekend, the bilge pump was 
getting a periodic workout. The water pump was leaking like a sieve, 
so as soon as I could I replaced the pump ( seals to bearings was 
toast so beyond rebuild). I thought my bilge pump could rest. Not so. 
It is still going off every 5 -6 minutes, just for a quick burst, 
removing maybe a cup of water. After a sleepless night last night, I 
paddled out to the boat this morning and traced the leak to behind the 
propeller shaft log. There are 4 bolts that I could see after 
contorting myself behind the fuel tank. I assume they are mounting 
bolts for the strut. These bolts were wet and showed some 
corrosion,and were the apparent source of the stream of water 
legging under the engine and eventually to the bilge. The PO claimed 
the boat was bone dry (Not so said the boat yard in RI). The surveyor 
did not pick up on anything in this area. The boat had been on the 
hard for 2 years.
I have a feeling this may be a short season and I will likely need to 
haul the boat to repair.  Has anyone had this problem?
 Engine mounts are in need of replacement, too. Lots of shaking under 
1800 rpm. This is probably a contributing factor?
Yes, I have a solar panel to try to keep the battery charged for the 
bilge pump.

Thanks.
David Swensen
Freya

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Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

My new to me 1985 35 MKIII was launched a week and a half ago. On the trip
from Newport RI to Salem, MA last weekend, the bilge pump was getting a
periodic workout. The water pump was leaking like a sieve, so as soon as I
could I replaced the pump ( seals to bearings was toast so beyond rebuild).
I thought my bilge pump could rest. Not so. It is still going off every 5
-6 minutes, just for a quick burst, removing maybe a cup of water. After a
sleepless night last night, I paddled out to the boat this morning and
traced the leak to behind the propeller shaft log. There are 4 bolts that I
could see after contorting myself behind the fuel tank. I assume they are
mounting bolts for the strut. These bolts were wet and showed some
corrosion,and were the apparent source of the stream of water legging under
the engine and eventually to the bilge. The PO claimed the boat was bone
dry (Not so said the boat yard in RI). The surveyor did not pick up on
anything in this area. The boat had been on the hard for 2 years.
I have a feeling this may be a short season and I will likely need to haul
the boat to repair.  Has anyone had this problem?
 Engine mounts are in need of replacement, too. Lots of shaking under 1800
rpm. This is probably a contributing factor?
Yes, I have a solar panel to try to keep the battery charged for the bilge
pump.
Thanks.
David Swensen
Freya
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Re: Stus-List hatch knobs

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

--
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2020 23:28:40 +
From: Neil Andersen 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior hatch knob
Message-ID:
    

    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Shawn,

Have you found www.sailboatdata.com?

It is a good source (generally) of information on various sailboats.

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2020 7:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior hatch knob

I agree that a SS option would be better. One of mine appears to be the newer 
style, but I admit that this is one area of the boat I have not inspected 
closely at all. I do plan to replace the ports and hatch lenses at some point 
in the future, if we don't find another boat first... Saw a very nice Tayana 48 
anchored beside us yesterday. Wasn't sure what it was so I took a photo and 
found it online, since I didn't get a chance to say hello to the owners. A bit 
out of league for now though, but one has to have dreams...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 07:35:36 -0700
From: Shawn Wright 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Exterior hatch knob
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Neil,

Yes, I've used it extensively to research boats, but sometimes I need to
google the boat name and port (in this case it was Malachi from BYC in
North Van, and they have a blog) before I can determine what type it is.
C, Ericsons, and Catalinas I can nearly always spot from a distance, but
others are not so easy.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 4:28 PM Neil Andersen 
wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> Have you found www.sailboatdata.com?
>
> It is a good source (generally) of information on various sailboats.
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 27, 2020 7:24 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Exterior hatch knob
>
> I agree that a SS option would be better. One of mine appears to be the
> newer style, but I admit that this is one area of the boat I have not
> inspected closely at all. I do plan to replace the ports and hatch lenses
> at some point in the future, if we don't find another boat first... Saw a
> very nice Tayana 48 anchored beside us yesterday. Wasn't sure what it was
> so I took a photo and found it online, since I didn't get a chance to say
> hello to the owners. A bit out of league for now though, but one has to
> have dreams...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Exterior hatch knob

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Neil,

Yes, I've used it extensively to research boats, but sometimes I need to
google the boat name and port (in this case it was Malachi from BYC in
North Van, and they have a blog) before I can determine what type it is.
C, Ericsons, and Catalinas I can nearly always spot from a distance, but
others are not so easy.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 4:28 PM Neil Andersen 
wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> Have you found www.sailboatdata.com?
>
> It is a good source (generally) of information on various sailboats.
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 27, 2020 7:24 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Exterior hatch knob
>
> I agree that a SS option would be better. One of mine appears to be the
> newer style, but I admit that this is one area of the boat I have not
> inspected closely at all. I do plan to replace the ports and hatch lenses
> at some point in the future, if we don't find another boat first... Saw a
> very nice Tayana 48 anchored beside us yesterday. Wasn't sure what it was
> so I took a photo and found it online, since I didn't get a chance to say
> hello to the owners. A bit out of league for now though, but one has to
> have dreams...
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray