Re: Stus-List C&C29 MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Doug Robinson via CnC-List]

Yep, been there, done that and got the T shirt.  First time I noted the 
problem was when attending my first Owners meeting Rob Mazza asked the 
assembled owners how many had replaced the mast step and six or eight 
hands went up.   OMG wots this?   Second time on Saturday Morning before 
heading out to the YYC Level regatta we couldn't get the rig to tune.  
Damn mast step collapsed so the racing crew hunkered the mast up and we 
unscrewed the block and ran off to Scotty our shipwright in the yard and 
of course he had a block of oak in inventory for just such an occasion.  
He and our ship's carpenter (and mainsail trimmer by avocation) slipped 
in the new block and screwed it in place. It was then we observed that 
he drilled a limber hole in the block under the mast and swaged in a 
stainless drain pipe with the end knurled over to drain the stuff that 
comes down the mast.  (Lesson #1).  Whole procedure took 45 minutes and 
we converted a DNS to a late start and DNF for the first race.  That was 
1990 and we have since replaced it again, this time soaking the block 
for months in preservation chemicals.  (Lesson #2)


The real problem comes when the stringers under the block collapse due 
to the fact that they are not encased in fiberglass on the bottom.  Then 
you have to cut out the cabin sole and re glass in new stringers (and 
upgrade the sole to a nicer teak and holley deck).  That project would 
be above my paygrade and I would have some of the C&C alumni in the club 
tackle that.  I have seen it done once in our yard.  Meantime make damn 
sure the bilge stays dry and fit a garboard plug to keep that way while 
up on the cradle for the winter.  (Lesson #3)


It's no big deal and we have had discussions about casting an aluminum 
pillow block but its just easier and faster to fit a new oak block.


Doug Robinson

On 8/31/20 1:41 PM, Lee Goss via CnC-List wrote:

Dear C&C List members,

I have a C&C29 MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the 
mast sank about 4 or 5 inches!


We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But 
we won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.


We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of 
the season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best 
way to do this?


Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast 
step or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate 
it. At this point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't 
know precisely what we're going to need to make the repair.


For reference: here's photos of the damage: 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA


Many thanks in advance for any help.
Lee


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Re: Stus-List C&C29 MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Hi Lee,

I documented my mast step rebuild project on my 30 MK I - see 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM/view?usp=sharing 


Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30 MK I #79
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Aug 31, 2020, at 11:41 AM, Lee Goss via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dear C&C List members,
> 
> I have a C&C29 MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the mast 
> sank about 4 or 5 inches!
> 
> We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But we 
> won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.
> 
> We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of the 
> season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best way to do 
> this?
> 
> Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast step 
> or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate it. At this 
> point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't know precisely what 
> we're going to need to make the repair.
> 
> For reference: here's photos of the damage: 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA 
> 
> 
> Many thanks in advance for any help.
> Lee 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Stove lock

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

FWIW, my 3 burner F-10 only has a single lock on the right side.
2 is probably better than 1 but I never missed a left side lock—the boat was 
delivered with only the right lock.
I rarely use the stove and never when underway—in this situation,1 lock is 
plenty—although as a lefty, it would have been nice to have it on the left!!

Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
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Re: Stus-List C&C29 MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If it is like the 35, the cash outlay is not bad but the time on your belly 
chiseling out rotted wood is high.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 2:10 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C29 MK1 Mast Step Replacement

Lee,

Frequent topic on the list.  Many of us have rebuilt the mast steps on our 
boats.  Nothing catastrophic about it, just a pain in the butt.

First, many older C&C's mast steps were simply 3-4 pieces of marine plywood 
bonded together with NO encapsulation.  Many years in the wet environment of 
the bilge resulted in failures.

As many of us have rebuilt the step, you will get lots of methods to do it.  
But the one IMPORTANT piece of advice that all of us will tell you is to 
measure as much as you can in order to rebuild to the correct elevation and to 
relocate the butt of the mast as near to original as possible.  Given that your 
step has collapsed, you'll have to be creative in measuring the original 
elevation as closely as you can but it really is the single most important 
aspect of the job.  Be sure to pick good reference points.

The second piece of advice is to make sure you leave a conduit or space under 
the new step for drainage and cables.

After that, it's just a matter of cleaning out the old step and putting in the 
new one.  I made a form out of pieces of cardboard and glassed in a new step 
across the shoulders of the bilge.  Took a lot of layers but it will never 
collapse again.  Several millennia from now, an archeologist will find an 
irregularly shaped block of epoxy glass and wonder what it was for.  I rebuilt 
the aluminum step box at the same time.

Other listers have used oak, thick G10 fiberglass sheets or other techniques.

I'm sure other listers will advise and possibly provide pictures.

The list is a great resource for this particular project since so many of us 
have done it.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List C&C29 MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Lee,

Frequent topic on the list.  Many of us have rebuilt the mast steps on our
boats.  Nothing catastrophic about it, just a pain in the butt.

First, many older C&C's mast steps were simply 3-4 pieces of marine plywood
bonded together with NO encapsulation.  Many years in the wet environment
of the bilge resulted in failures.

As many of us have rebuilt the step, you will get lots of methods to do
it.  But the one IMPORTANT piece of advice that all of us will tell you is
to measure as much as you can in order to rebuild to the correct elevation
and to relocate the butt of the mast as near to original as possible.
Given that your step has collapsed, you'll have to be creative in measuring
the original elevation as closely as you can but it really is the single
most important aspect of the job.  Be sure to pick good reference points.

The second piece of advice is to make sure you leave a conduit or space
under the new step for drainage and cables.

After that, it's just a matter of cleaning out the old step and putting in
the new one.  I made a form out of pieces of cardboard and glassed in a new
step across the shoulders of the bilge.  Took a lot of layers but it will
never collapse again.  Several millennia from now, an archeologist will
find an irregularly shaped block of epoxy glass and wonder what it was
for.  I rebuilt the aluminum step box at the same time.

Other listers have used oak, thick G10 fiberglass sheets or other
techniques.

I'm sure other listers will advise and possibly provide pictures.

The list is a great resource for this particular project since so many of
us have done it.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Aug 31, 2020 at 12:42 PM Lee Goss via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dear C&C List members,
>
> I have a C&C29 MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the mast
> sank about 4 or 5 inches!
>
> We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But we
> won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.
>
> We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of the
> season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best way to do
> this?
>
> Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast
> step or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate it. At
> this point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't know precisely
> what we're going to need to make the repair.
>
> For reference: here's photos of the damage:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA
>
> Many thanks in advance for any help.
> Lee
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List C&C29 MK1 Mast Step Replacement

[Lee Goss via CnC-List]

Dear C&C List members,

I have a C&C29 MK1 and over the weekend the mast step failed and the mast
sank about 4 or 5 inches!

We suspect this is due to the mast step block having rotten away. But we
won't know for sure until the mast is removed on Saturday.

We're hoping to fix the issue well enough to enjoy the remainder of the
season on Lake Michigan. Does anyone have any advice on the best way to do
this?

Furthermore, if anyone has photos of the process of replacing the mast step
or dimensions for the block of wood etc we'd really appreciate it. At this
point in time, we've never seen the mast step and don't know precisely what
we're going to need to make the repair.

For reference: here's photos of the damage:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/u9GBQpsTzUWkmrhZA

Many thanks in advance for any help.
Lee
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Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I bought an AIS receiver from Milltech and it worked fine for many years. 
Eventually I sold to someone on this list IIRC.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 11:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

Hi all,
When I bought Rebecca Leah she came with a class B transponder, and an antenna 
splitter ( for lack of a better description). I bought her from the owner of 
MILLTECH Marine. Doug is very knowledgeable about AIS. Thats all his company 
does. Contact him for your best options.
I have all my electronics interfaced. It is very nice having boat and ship 
names on the plotter. Here in Puget Sound Its nice to be able to call them by 
name, and the freighters like it when you ask them their intentions before you 
blas out in front of them.

Doug

https://www.milltechmarine.com

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Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Hi all,
When I bought Rebecca Leah she came with a class B transponder, and an
antenna splitter ( for lack of a better description). I bought her from the
owner of MILLTECH Marine. Doug is very knowledgeable about AIS. Thats all
his company does. Contact him for your best options.
I have all my electronics interfaced. It is very nice having boat and ship
names on the plotter. Here in Puget Sound Its nice to be able to call them
by name, and the freighters like it when you ask them their intentions
before you blas out in front of them.

Doug

https://www.*milltechmarine*.com


On Mon, Aug 31, 2020 at 6:13 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks to  all for responding.   So as to my philosophy of
> electronics/platforms:   I do not (try not) replace things that are not
> broken, keep electronics *not* front and center (of helm) and keep
> systems separate so that if one goes down others are still functioning and
> I am still the active (involved) interface.
>
>
>
> Was only receiving AIS to laptop via a little black box (SR-161).  Never
> used it (or the chart-plotter) much.   Now need a Class B transponder for
> 2021 Bermuda Race (not WIFI).Seems either a separate unit sharing a VHF
> antennae with VHF or VHF/AIS integrated are my two choices as IPad
> receiving AIS needs WIFI to work.   Separate AIS is first choice as the
> VHF/RAM mic work just fine.
>
>
>
> On the wrong path here?
>
>
>
> Oh and radar, autopilot and sailing instruments are Raymarine.   Again all
> running separately.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 30, 2020 1:03 PM
> *To:* David Risch 
> *Cc:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; ed vanderkruk 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...
>
>
>
> Where did your ais info come from when you had the laptop?  What
> infrastructure exists on the boat today?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:11 PM, David Risch  wrote:
>
> 
>
> One important point I failed to mention.Going offshore.  Need the VHF
> input.
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 30, 2020 11:41:32 AM
> *To:* ed vanderkruk 
> *Cc:* Dave S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 11:16 AM, ed vanderkruk 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Those ais apps work pretty well - pretty much realtime. There can be dead
> spots where no shore based station is loading data on the internet. Of
> course you have to have cell coverage and only other boats using a similar
> app see your boat - not others using regular ais over the air.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 10:48 a.m. Joseph Bognar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I use an App called Boat Beacon. It turns your electronic device into AIS
> . You can also see all the other vessels in your area
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 10:21 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts.
> iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays -
> iRegatta has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data
> there over WiFi.
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the
> laptop I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and
> thought I would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face
> time.  I assume it is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

[Matthew via CnC-List]

FWIW, my prior response about using Gasoila assumed that Ian already tried the 
hot water / heat gun trick.  His original note did not indicate he encountered 
a problem getting the hose on all the way.  If that’s the case, obviously try 
the mechanical tricks first.  However, sometimes the problem is not that you 
can’t get the hose on completely, it’s that it’s a little too easy to get the 
hose on due either to the hose ID or the fitting.  Assuming the sizes are 
matched correctly, and that the hose is dripping even though it’s completely on 
the fitting and correctly tightened, try Gasoila.  It has worked well for me. 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

 

I agree as well, shouldn’t need, unless you have a really bad fitting. 

I have been removing /Assembling 1 ½” hoses to a Grey tank I can’t get to pump, 
and I always use a heat gun, on the lower setting, (which, by the way, is much 
hotter than a Hair Dryer) and a little Dawn. Clamping it down while warm (two 
clamps, if room) should seal it.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 3:34 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi everyone,

 

Looking for advice.  I replaced the hose from my Jabsco twist n Lock to the 
holding tank.  It is 1 1/2" Shields hose (top quality) and the outlet is 1 1/2" 
 but after clamping it up tight, I get drips at the head connection.  It is 
uphill to the holding tank so I need to prevent drips.

 

What gunk do you recommend to put around the head outlet to seal the connection 
as I clamp it back down.  I don't want to use an adhesive sealer as I may have 
to remove the hose sometime in the future to maintain the joker valve etc.

 

-- 

Ian Matthew

"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1

San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Use liquid disk soap to lure both the barb and inside of the hose, heat first 
as suggested. I find it easier to remove the barb from the head to get the hose 
on on the Jabsco toilets.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Ian Matthew via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 6:33:08 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ian Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

Hi everyone,

Looking for advice.  I replaced the hose from my Jabsco twist n Lock to the 
holding tank.  It is 1 1/2" Shields hose (top quality) and the outlet is 1 1/2" 
 but after clamping it up tight, I get drips at the head connection.  It is 
uphill to the holding tank so I need to prevent drips.

What gunk do you recommend to put around the head outlet to seal the connection 
as I clamp it back down.  I don't want to use an adhesive sealer as I may have 
to remove the hose sometime in the future to maintain the joker valve etc.

--
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I agree as well, shouldn’t need, unless you have a really bad fitting. 

I have been removing /Assembling 1 ½” hoses to a Grey tank I can’t get to pump, 
and I always use a heat gun, on the lower setting, (which, by the way, is much 
hotter than a Hair Dryer) and a little Dawn. Clamping it down while warm (two 
clamps, if room) should seal it.

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 6:55 PM
To: C&C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

 

You shouldn't need a sealant. Try removing the clamp and the hose, and 
reattaching the hose at the head outlet. If you don't get the hose straight, it 
can leak.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

 

 

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 3:34 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi everyone,

 

Looking for advice.  I replaced the hose from my Jabsco twist n Lock to the 
holding tank.  It is 1 1/2" Shields hose (top quality) and the outlet is 1 1/2" 
 but after clamping it up tight, I get drips at the head connection.  It is 
uphill to the holding tank so I need to prevent drips.

 

What gunk do you recommend to put around the head outlet to seal the connection 
as I clamp it back down.  I don't want to use an adhesive sealer as I may have 
to remove the hose sometime in the future to maintain the joker valve etc.

 

-- 

Ian Matthew

"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1

San Francisco Bay

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Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I use a Digital Yacht 1500 with a separate antenna. Another antenna is far 
cheaper than a splitter, won’t malfunction and take out the VHF too, and if the 
masthead antenna becomes unusable I can connect it to the VHF if I want to.
The AIS unit feeds GPS and AIS info to my laptop and the CP-180 in the cockpit 
and the VHF for DSC along with a NMEA to WiFi unit that can feed various things 
like an iPhone or iPad.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Risch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 9:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

Thanks to  all for responding.   So as to my philosophy of 
electronics/platforms:   I do not (try not) replace things that are not broken, 
keep electronics not front and center (of helm) and keep systems separate so 
that if one goes down others are still functioning and I am still the active 
(involved) interface.

Was only receiving AIS to laptop via a little black box (SR-161).  Never used 
it (or the chart-plotter) much.   Now need a Class B transponder for 2021 
Bermuda Race (not WIFI).Seems either a separate unit sharing a VHF antennae 
with VHF or VHF/AIS integrated are my two choices as IPad receiving AIS needs 
WIFI to work.   Separate AIS is first choice as the VHF/RAM mic work just fine.

On the wrong path here?

Oh and radar, autopilot and sailing instruments are Raymarine.   Again all 
running separately.

Thanks in advance.



From: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 1:03 PM
To: David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>>
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; ed vanderkruk 
mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

Where did your ais info come from when you had the laptop?  What infrastructure 
exists on the boat today?
Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:11 PM, David Risch 
mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>> wrote:

One important point I failed to mention.Going offshore.  Need the VHF input.
Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 11:41:32 AM
To: ed vanderkruk mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 30, 2020, at 11:16 AM, ed vanderkruk 
mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Those ais apps work pretty well - pretty much realtime. There can be dead spots 
where no shore based station is loading data on the internet. Of course you 
have to have cell coverage and only other boats using a similar app see your 
boat - not others using regular ais over the air.


Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 10:48 a.m. Joseph Bognar via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I use an App called Boat Beacon. It turns your electronic device into AIS . You 
can also see all the other vessels in your area
Sent from Joe Bognar


On Aug 30, 2020, at 10:21 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts. 
iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays - iRegatta 
has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data there over WiFi.

Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the laptop 
I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and thought I 
would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face time.  I assume it 
is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.



Thanks in advance.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

David,

There are only one or two VHFs with transponders.  I went with a SiTex unit
and splitter, but if you want wifi I would look at the Vesper 8000 and a
splitter.

Enjoy the race!

Joel

On Mon, Aug 31, 2020 at 9:13 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks to  all for responding.   So as to my philosophy of
> electronics/platforms:   I do not (try not) replace things that are not
> broken, keep electronics *not* front and center (of helm) and keep
> systems separate so that if one goes down others are still functioning and
> I am still the active (involved) interface.
>
>
>
> Was only receiving AIS to laptop via a little black box (SR-161).  Never
> used it (or the chart-plotter) much.   Now need a Class B transponder for
> 2021 Bermuda Race (not WIFI).Seems either a separate unit sharing a VHF
> antennae with VHF or VHF/AIS integrated are my two choices as IPad
> receiving AIS needs WIFI to work.   Separate AIS is first choice as the
> VHF/RAM mic work just fine.
>
>
>
> On the wrong path here?
>
>
>
> Oh and radar, autopilot and sailing instruments are Raymarine.   Again all
> running separately.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 30, 2020 1:03 PM
> *To:* David Risch 
> *Cc:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; ed vanderkruk 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...
>
>
>
> Where did your ais info come from when you had the laptop?  What
> infrastructure exists on the boat today?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:11 PM, David Risch  wrote:
>
> 
>
> One important point I failed to mention.Going offshore.  Need the VHF
> input.
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 30, 2020 11:41:32 AM
> *To:* ed vanderkruk 
> *Cc:* Dave S ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 11:16 AM, ed vanderkruk 
> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Those ais apps work pretty well - pretty much realtime. There can be dead
> spots where no shore based station is loading data on the internet. Of
> course you have to have cell coverage and only other boats using a similar
> app see your boat - not others using regular ais over the air.
>
>
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 10:48 a.m. Joseph Bognar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I use an App called Boat Beacon. It turns your electronic device into AIS
> . You can also see all the other vessels in your area
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
>
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 10:21 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts.
> iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays -
> iRegatta has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data
> there over WiFi.
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the
> laptop I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and
> thought I would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face
> time.  I assume it is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

[David Risch via CnC-List]

And water based lube.

To get hose off use a hair dryer and lots of cussing.  To get hose on hot water 
and lube…let the jokes begin.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2020 7:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

You could try putting the hose end in hot (close to boiling hot) water for a 
few minutes and then quickly slipping it on and clamping it tight before it 
cools down.

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 7:34 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Looking for advice.  I replaced the hose from my Jabsco twist n Lock to the 
holding tank.  It is 1 1/2" Shields hose (top quality) and the outlet is 1 1/2" 
 but after clamping it up tight, I get drips at the head connection.  It is 
uphill to the holding tank so I need to prevent drips.

What gunk do you recommend to put around the head outlet to seal the connection 
as I clamp it back down.  I don't want to use an adhesive sealer as I may have 
to remove the hose sometime in the future to maintain the joker valve etc.

--
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay


___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Thanks to  all for responding.   So as to my philosophy of 
electronics/platforms:   I do not (try not) replace things that are not broken, 
keep electronics not front and center (of helm) and keep systems separate so 
that if one goes down others are still functioning and I am still the active 
(involved) interface.

Was only receiving AIS to laptop via a little black box (SR-161).  Never used 
it (or the chart-plotter) much.   Now need a Class B transponder for 2021 
Bermuda Race (not WIFI).Seems either a separate unit sharing a VHF antennae 
with VHF or VHF/AIS integrated are my two choices as IPad receiving AIS needs 
WIFI to work.   Separate AIS is first choice as the VHF/RAM mic work just fine.

On the wrong path here?

Oh and radar, autopilot and sailing instruments are Raymarine.   Again all 
running separately.

Thanks in advance.



From: Dave S 
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 1:03 PM
To: David Risch 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; ed vanderkruk 
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

Where did your ais info come from when you had the laptop?  What infrastructure 
exists on the boat today?
Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 30, 2020, at 12:11 PM, David Risch 
mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>> wrote:

One important point I failed to mention.Going offshore.  Need the VHF input.
Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2020 11:41:32 AM
To: ed vanderkruk mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...


Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 30, 2020, at 11:16 AM, ed vanderkruk 
mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Those ais apps work pretty well - pretty much realtime. There can be dead spots 
where no shore based station is loading data on the internet. Of course you 
have to have cell coverage and only other boats using a similar app see your 
boat - not others using regular ais over the air.


Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 10:48 a.m. Joseph Bognar via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I use an App called Boat Beacon. It turns your electronic device into AIS . You 
can also see all the other vessels in your area
Sent from Joe Bognar



On Aug 30, 2020, at 10:21 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts. 
iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays - iRegatta 
has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data there over WiFi.

Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the laptop 
I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and thought I 
would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face time.  I assume it 
is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.



Thanks in advance.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal

Re: Stus-List Sealing a plumbing leak on the head outlet

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

You could try putting the hose end in hot (close to boiling hot) water for
a few minutes and then quickly slipping it on and clamping it tight before
it cools down.

On Sun, Aug 30, 2020 at 7:34 PM Ian Matthew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Looking for advice.  I replaced the hose from my Jabsco twist n Lock to
> the holding tank.  It is 1 1/2" Shields hose (top quality) and the outlet
> is 1 1/2"  but after clamping it up tight, I get drips at the head
> connection.  It is uphill to the holding tank so I need to prevent drips.
>
> What gunk do you recommend to put around the head outlet to seal the
> connection as I clamp it back down.  I don't want to use an adhesive sealer
> as I may have to remove the hose sometime in the future to maintain the
> joker valve etc.
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C&C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray