Stus-List Re: Yanmar 3GM30F in C 30 MKI

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

It's a great upgrade, but you have to make sure you're ready for all the
other things involved. New prop shaft: possible, new prop: necessary, new
fuel tank and hoses and...
And will it fit?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 at 12:23, David Morris via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A trusted friend has a Yanmar 3GM30F available (he’s going all electric).
> I’ve bonded with our C 30 MKI Atomic 4, but diesel and a little more
> oomph into a headwind and big water is appealing. Does anyone have an
> experience with swapping the A4 to this model of Yanmar?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> David J. Morris, MBA
> President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
> 24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3
>
> Tel. 613-531-4429
> email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
> Member: Canadian Freelance Guild
>
> Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/
>
>
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com 
>
> <#m_-2790551939840377430_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Don't forget to tighten the keel bolts to the proper torque. You  can find
the specs on the cncphotoalbum site.

David Swensen
Freya 35 MKII
Beverly, MA

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 10:21 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Juliano,
>
> that's not too bad.  Many boats get similar cracks. They occur where the
> keel is joined to the hull.  You definitely want to clean it up and fill in
> the divots.  You'll get many responses on this topic so I'll let others
> chime in.
>
> Bob
>
> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list.
>
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The Peterson races with crew.  Fully crewed takes something like 8 or 9.
The owner was having difficulty rounding up full crew for every race so he
opted for the sprit and asym to reduce required crew.

There is a limit to the sprit length in my PHRF area.  It is marked so he
doesn't exceed it even though the sprit, as installed, will extend past it.

Folks in the Chesapeake area may remember the boat, "Whiskers".

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jan 22, 2021 at 10:48 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
wrote:

> Hi Dennis,   Your comments match what I expected.
> The full size spinnaker has to be the fastest setup for my boat as it has
> the largest sail area, but an assym is easier for solo sailing and faster
> downwind than sailing with jib and main.
>
> Does Peterson 37 race solo or with crew?
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms

[Matthew via CnC-List]

On my 42 Custom, the non-sprit asym is faster when the wind is forward of 100 
degrees or so apparent.  It’s perfect for tight reaching in light air.  We 
don’t do polars to get to a downwind mark, so the big sym chutes are faster 
downwind.

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2021 11:48 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms

 

Hi Dennis,   Your comments match what I expected.

The full size spinnaker has to be the fastest setup for my boat as it has the 
largest sail area, but an assym is easier for solo sailing and faster downwind 
than sailing with jib and main.   

  

Does Peterson 37 race solo or with crew? 

  

Chuck S 

  

  

On 01/22/2021 8:31 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

I installed a Selden sprit on a Peterson 37 here.  No rating penalty out to a 
certain length or chute size. 

  

Hasn't seemed to make much of a performance difference for the boat but it has 
helped reduce required crew. 

  

  -- 

Dennis C. 

Touche' 35-1 #83 

Mandeville, LA 

 

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 8:15 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > wrote: 

FWIW, I'm getting the sprit just to have more fun sailing downwind.  I find my 
34R sails upwind very fast but wants more sail area downwind and I'm thinking 
the asym will answer that need and a sprit will make it fly better and project 
the luff further out so I can sail deeper downwind than if I rigged the tack to 
my anchor roller.  I may have to sail angles to keep it working, and sail 
further but it should be fun learning and trying things instead of sailing 
straight downwind in five knots of wind making about three knots with "no wind" 
across the deck in 100 degree heat.  

  

  




  

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,   Your comments match what I expected.   
The full size spinnaker has to be the fastest setup for my boat as it has the 
largest sail area, but an assym is easier for solo sailing and faster downwind 
than sailing with jib and main.  

Does Peterson 37 race solo or with crew?

Chuck S



> On 01/22/2021 8:31 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I installed a Selden sprit on a Peterson 37 here.  No rating penalty out 
> to a certain length or chute size.
>  
> Hasn't seemed to make much of a performance difference for the boat but 
> it has helped reduce required crew.
>  
>   --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 8:15 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > FWIW, I'm getting the sprit just to have more fun sailing 
> downwind.  I find my 34R sails upwind very fast but wants more sail area 
> downwind and I'm thinking the asym will answer that need and a sprit will 
> make it fly better and project the luff further out so I can sail deeper 
> downwind than if I rigged the tack to my anchor roller.  I may have to sail 
> angles to keep it working, and sail further but it should be fun learning and 
> trying things instead of sailing straight downwind in five knots of wind 
> making about three knots with "no wind" across the deck in 100 degree heat. 
> >  
> >  
> > 
> > > 
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Juliano; welcome aboard; there is a wealth of collective knowledge here and 
all of us had to start the learning process as you are doing; so, don't 
hesitate to ask and pose questions; many of the people, myself included, had a 
25 in the past and have moved up to larger vessels; the lessons learned, and 
the joys of sailing these boats are lasting ones and translate well to 
differing models; the advice regarding the keel smile fix is well documented; 
my only advice is don't scrimp or try a band-aid approach, you will thank 
yourself once you get out on the water and go sailing in a stiff breeze and the 
boat heels over; that is when you will know that it was worth all the time and 
sweat!  
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1085 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Juliano Franz 
Sent: Thu, Jan 21, 2021 9:47 pm
Subject: Stus-List No really a smile

Hi all,My first time messaging the list. 
A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka abandoned) 
for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and have been 
learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This old boat"  and 
some youtube channels.
There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to tackle. 
It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a photo of it 
(damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT 
Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a good 
option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their wisdom with 
me on this idea?
Thanks all!
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Welcome to the list Juliano

I have used both G-Flex and layers of cloth with epoxy for this repair.  When I 
used G-Flex and then sanded and faired the crack came back in less than two 
years.  When I ground out and used three layers of 6 oz cloth the problem went 
away for good.

This is a relatively simple and quick repair so don’t fret much about it.

That was my experience.  Make sure the keel bolts are torqued properly prior to 
the repair as well.

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: January 22, 2021 6:41 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Stus-List Re: No really a smile

This is a pretty good guide.  Matches Chuck's suggestions for the most part.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk

A lot of people have reported adding various combinations of layers of 
fiberglass.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Jan 21, 2021, 21:48 Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all,
My first time messaging the list.

A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka abandoned) 
for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and have been 
learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This old boat"  and 
some youtube channels.

There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to tackle. 
It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a photo of it 
(damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a good 
option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their wisdom with 
me on this idea?

Thanks all!

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Juliano,

Lots of good advice so far.  Many of us have done this same repair.

A few points to emphasize, first, if the washers/plates under the keel bolt
nuts aren't stainless, replace them.  Often the smile appears when the
washers deteriorate and the nuts become loose.

Next, torque the keel bolts.  The spec can be found here:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm

Get there from the home page of the photo album (
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/) by clicking the "Do It Yourself" link on the
left side then "Keelbolt Torque Specification".  There's also a link to
"C Smile - Fixing It" which shows some pictures.

The torque specs are for "dry" nuts.  If the nuts are lubed, reduce the
spec by 10%.  The nuts need to be torqued individually, i.e. one by one.
Back them off a turn then torque them down.

Once you've ensured you have stainless washers/plates and properly torqued
bolts, you can do the repair as many have suggested.

If you expose lead on the keel, immediately coat it with epoxy to minimize
oxidation.  Do this by applying the epoxy with a ScotchBrite type scrubbing
pad saturated with epoxy.  Scrub the lead with the pad to remove oxidation
as the epoxy is applied.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 8:48 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Sprits and Asyms

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I installed a Selden sprit on a Peterson 37 here.  No rating penalty out to
a certain length or chute size.

Hasn't seemed to make much of a performance difference for the boat but it
has helped reduce required crew.

  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 8:15 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, I'm getting the sprit just to have more fun sailing downwind.  I
> find my 34R sails upwind very fast but wants more sail area downwind and
> I'm thinking the asym will answer that need and a sprit will make it fly
> better and project the luff further out so I can sail deeper downwind than
> if I rigged the tack to my anchor roller.  I may have to sail angles to
> keep it working, and sail further but it should be fun learning and trying
> things instead of sailing straight downwind in five knots of wind making
> about three knots with "no wind" across the deck in 100 degree heat.
>
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: smile

[Lewis Cooke via CnC-List]

Hello All,
 I agree with everything that has been mentioned but also you need to check
your keel bolts and washers before you get into epoxy and fairing.
Lewis
S/V 4 Play
C 30-1 #45
Lorain, OH

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 10:46 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bob and Charles,
> Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like my initial plan good. I'll go
> clean the crack and apply gflex once she weather is warmer. For now all I
> can do is dream a little.
>
> I'm in Halifax, NS on the east coast of Canada.
>
> Cheers
>
> On Thu., Jan. 21, 2021, 23:34 CHARLES SCHEAFFER, 
> wrote:
>
>> Congrats on the boat.  Where are you located?
>>
>> That's the smile mentioned.  The broken teeth is just filler or fairing
>> material that broke off.  I've seen much worse.
>>
>> You can use an angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc (40 grit if you
>> have skills) to gently remove the high spots and loose stuff and expose the
>> joint.  Be careful as the more material you remove, the more you have to
>> fill/fair.  Fill the actual joint with *GFlex* or *Thixo Flex* from
>> Jamestown Distributers and smooth with a flexible spreader, then after it
>> cures, sand the area, wipe the dust off with Acetone or Zylene and fair
>> with *Total Fair* from Jamestowndistributers.  It's an easy to mix and
>> easy to sand, waterproof, compound.
>>
>> There are many videos on YouTube showing how.
>>
>> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 34R, Pasadena Md
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>> My first time messaging the list.
>>
>> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
>> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
>> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
>> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>>
>> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
>> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
>> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
>> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
>> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
>> wisdom with me on this idea?
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
>> Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: smile

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi Juliano - welcome and congratulations.  Good advice so far and ideally
you can block the keel and lift the boat a bit to get better access to the
gap.   You mention you are new to this so forgive the following if it's
something you already know:

You mentioned sanding and you see the replies mentioned grinding.   It is
counterintuitive to someone new to this to take a grinder to their hull,
but for glass work it's necessary and it's remarkable how quickly you will
learn to do pretty refined work. (Chuck subtly mentions "skill" - this is
what i think he means) you'll need flexible disks and a backing pad to
support them, most grinders don't include these.  With this you can skim
.5mm off a surface or do a gentle few passes to feather the sharp edges of
glass in seconds with ease.  A light compact angle grinder is best for
this, and the cheap (essentially disposable) ones are fine other than they
seem to come with a 2' cord.

some posts on glass work here, and a relevant example:

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search/label/Fibreglass%20work?updated-max=2019-07-27T07:33:00-04:00=20=4=false

if you look at the keel hull joint..  you can't! I was doing other work,
and I decided to dish either side of the joint a bit with the grinder, and
lay in a thin epoxy/glass patch across the entire thing (about 3" wide and
just cosmetic really)   some quick fairing when done and it's still in
place several seasons later, and can be easily skimmed off with the grinder
if need be.

Probably some good sources for materials in HFX, and I can also recommend
Canada Composites in Toronto.

Dave
C 33-2 Windstar  (in the GTA)


On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 at 22:46, Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bob and Charles,
> Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like my initial plan good. I'll go
> clean the crack and apply gflex once she weather is warmer. For now all I
> can do is dream a little.
>
> I'm in Halifax, NS on the east coast of Canada.
>
> Cheers
>
> On Thu., Jan. 21, 2021, 23:34 CHARLES SCHEAFFER, 
> wrote:
>
>> Congrats on the boat.  Where are you located?
>>
>> That's the smile mentioned.  The broken teeth is just filler or fairing
>> material that broke off.  I've seen much worse.
>>
>> You can use an angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc (40 grit if you
>> have skills) to gently remove the high spots and loose stuff and expose the
>> joint.  Be careful as the more material you remove, the more you have to
>> fill/fair.  Fill the actual joint with *GFlex* or *Thixo Flex* from
>> Jamestown Distributers and smooth with a flexible spreader, then after it
>> cures, sand the area, wipe the dust off with Acetone or Zylene and fair
>> with *Total Fair* from Jamestowndistributers.  It's an easy to mix and
>> easy to sand, waterproof, compound.
>>
>> There are many videos on YouTube showing how.
>>
>> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 34R, Pasadena Md
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi all,
>> My first time messaging the list.
>>
>> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
>> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
>> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
>> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>>
>> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
>> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
>> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
>> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
>> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
>> wisdom with me on this idea?
>>
>> Thanks all!
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
>> Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Grind it out between the lead keel and the grp hull and clean to bare about
3 inches above and below the gap. Clean the surfaces in between the gap
with acetone. Let dry and apply west system epoxy to the surfaces with a
tooth brush. Then Make an epoxy putty with the same west system and fill
the gap with the putty. Mix more wet system and soak a 1-2 inch wide piece
of glass matt on top both sides and around the leading edge. Do same again
with a wider strip of glass matt. Be sure to get air bubbles out when you
apply the wet glass matt. Do once more if you have room. Grind away and
spikes or lumps to give a smooth contour with the undisturbed surfaced.
Fair with light weight polyester, i used auto body filler. Apply bottom
paint system

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 10:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list.
>
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Juliano
You’ve come to the right place there lots of amazing knowledge in this
group
What area are you in? or where your boat is located?

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 9:48 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list.
>
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: smile

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Congratulations juliano on your boat
That doesn’t look to bad
If you think your boat is too small I might have a 30 foot for you

On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 10:35 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Congrats on the boat.  Where are you located?
>
> That's the smile mentioned.  The broken teeth is just filler or fairing
> material that broke off.  I've seen much worse.
>
> You can use an angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc (40 grit if you
> have skills) to gently remove the high spots and loose stuff and expose the
> joint.  Be careful as the more material you remove, the more you have to
> fill/fair.  Fill the actual joint with *GFlex* or *Thixo Flex* from
> Jamestown Distributers and smooth with a flexible spreader, then after it
> cures, sand the area, wipe the dust off with Acetone or Zylene and fair
> with *Total Fair* from Jamestowndistributers.  It's an easy to mix and
> easy to sand, waterproof, compound.
>
> There are many videos on YouTube showing how.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 34R, Pasadena Md
>
>
>
>
> On 01/21/2021 9:47 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list.
>
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: No really a smile

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

This is a pretty good guide.  Matches Chuck's suggestions for the most part.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk

A lot of people have reported adding various combinations of layers of
fiberglass.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Jan 21, 2021, 21:48 Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
> My first time messaging the list.
>
> A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka
> abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and
> have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This
> old boat"  and some youtube channels.
>
> There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to
> tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a
> photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT
> Going over the variety of "smile repairs"  there is one that seems like a
> good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their
> wisdom with me on this idea?
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu