Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid
I bought a C 30 mkll in September 2020 and i had trouble lighting the stove the first time. Discovered my operator error of not pushing the control knob in while trying to lite burner. Then discovered that you had to hold it in for about 5 to 10 seconds after the burner ignited to get it to stay on. Kevin Hartig Sv Kilgharrah C 30 mkll On Thursday, March 31, 2022, Shawn Wright via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > You should be able to hear the solenoid click when power is applied. If > not, either it has failed, is stuck, or the connections need cleaning up. > In my case, I once had it stick closed due to an accumulation of a waxy goo > which became quite viscous when cold. I assume this was due to moisture and > age, and the solenoid being located at the low point in the lines. Cleaning > all the goo out has cured it for over a year now. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > > On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 12:28 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Like many of us, I am excited to get Indigo Out We Go back into the >> waters of Lake Ontario in about a month!!! She is a 1980 C 34 that we >> bought last year. She is a great boat for us because she was stored inside >> in the off season but many of her accessories were not functioning, leading >> to a good financial deal for us. >> >> One of those accessories is the propane stove and oven. I can’t get the >> stove to light. It feels to me like there is gas in the 3 pound cylinder >> and the gas lines look intact. I have the solenoid switch turned on. Could >> it be that the solenoid has failed? Or is there some other likely trouble >> in the system? >> >> This isn’t a huge deal because I bought a transom mount propane grill >> (summer cooking is cooler outside) and I bring my white gas backpacking >> stove on our multi day adventures. >> >> Thanks in advance for the wisdom, >> >> TODD >> Sodus Bay, NY >> >
Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid
You should be able to hear the solenoid click when power is applied. If not, either it has failed, is stuck, or the connections need cleaning up. In my case, I once had it stick closed due to an accumulation of a waxy goo which became quite viscous when cold. I assume this was due to moisture and age, and the solenoid being located at the low point in the lines. Cleaning all the goo out has cured it for over a year now. -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto On Wed, Mar 30, 2022 at 12:28 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Like many of us, I am excited to get Indigo Out We Go back into the waters > of Lake Ontario in about a month!!! She is a 1980 C 34 that we bought > last year. She is a great boat for us because she was stored inside in the > off season but many of her accessories were not functioning, leading to a > good financial deal for us. > > One of those accessories is the propane stove and oven. I can’t get the > stove to light. It feels to me like there is gas in the 3 pound cylinder > and the gas lines look intact. I have the solenoid switch turned on. Could > it be that the solenoid has failed? Or is there some other likely trouble > in the system? > > This isn’t a huge deal because I bought a transom mount propane grill > (summer cooking is cooler outside) and I bring my white gas backpacking > stove on our multi day adventures. > > Thanks in advance for the wisdom, > > TODD > Sodus Bay, NY >
Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices
Well, I’m glad Rick left a few dangling participles below, B/C I don’t seem to be getting all the emails like the one from Joe, even in spam folders on the Gmail Server. Having said that, this got me excited enough to get one of these SOLAS Parachute flares, only to be told you have to pick them up at the store! I wonder if they are that dangerous,(no shipping) if they should be stored in an Army Surplus 50 Caliber cartridge box or something – I would hate to have something like that go off below! Bill Coleman Entrada, Erie, PA From: Rick Brass via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2022 8:38 PM To: 'Stus-List' Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices I have to agree with Joe about the value of SOLAS flares. I hate spending $50 each on them – it’s the frugal (read cheap) sailor part of me – but if I ever need help I want someone to notice. 12 or 25 gauge flares are glorified bottle rockets, and USCG approved aerial flares go up 250-300 feet and burn for a few seconds. A few years ago I took a couple of expired SOLAS flares to my folks’ house on an inland lake in Michigan over July 4th. I figured to see what the flares looked like and make sure I knew how to set one off while everyone was shooting fireworks and wouldn’t notice the flare. WRONG! The rocket went up 1000 feet or more, the flare burst red and rode down on its parachute for what seemed like forever, and the whole lake was lit up like a blood red noon. I’m convinced that when you pop one of these puppies someone – probably everyone – will notice. Which is just what I want if I really need help. I also carry a couple of SOLAS smoke canisters aboard. I can’t recall the cost but it was pretty high. But when you pull the string and toss the can in the water, it lets out a cloud of orange smoke that seems like it would cover half of Lake Erie. I know this from watching a USCG training exercise ( I happened to be passing near Elizabeth City when the exercise was taking place) and I could see the smoke cloud from over three miles away. I hope I never have to use any of this, but if I do I know the SOLAS stuff will be well worth the cost. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2022 10:36 AM To: Stus-List Cc: Della Barba, Joe Subject: Stus-List Re: USCG flares vs electronic devices The electronic “flares” are a cheap way to be in compliance, but if you actually think you might need help they aren’t even remotely close to SOLAS flares. The strobes are probably going to be ignored by everyone, 12 gauge flares are useless unless you are right next to someone, but SOLAS flares light up the sky bright enough to read by! Joe Coquina
Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid
Speaking of stoves, gas and regulators …. Persistence uses CNG rather than propane I just received my stove/oven, fuel canister and hose/regulators/solenoid back from my gas guy. Replaced all lines, the solenoid and both regulators. The first cut regulator that takes gas from 3500psi to 90 psi was in fact re-built using the casing from my regulator and the guts from a new one of the same model. The new one did not have the overboard discharge port but was otherwise the same model. Mike showed me pictures of the inside of the old first cut regulator – it was metal and essentially a crumbling pile of rust which is why it failed. The second regulator is brand new and takes from 90psi to something like 4[si for the stove. Solenoid I also replaced while at it. Total cost approx. $800 CAD The corrosion inside the 34 year old regulator was very bad and points out that old gas systems should be replaced due to age and safety concerns Mike Hoyt Persistence Halifax, NS From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Sent: March 31, 2022 9:00 AM To: Stus-List Cc: Bruce Whitmore Subject: Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid What Dave said is essentially correct. 1. Make sure the tank has gas in it. Shake it, and if you feel liquid sloshing around, you have fuel. 2. Check the solenoid. Have someone flip the switch inside while you're at the solenoid. It should make a distinct clip and get warm. 3. Check the stove and when trying to light it, you should hear the distinct should of air/gas coming out of the burner(s). Note that depending on the street, you may have to hold the knob in or do something else to override the safety to start the burner. Once it is started, there should be a thermocouple that heats up to allow the flame to keep burning. If you hear gas/air, you may have to keep at trying to start the unit for a minute or two to purge the air out of the system. If you're getting the hissing sound, it's probably not the regulator. 4. If the solenoid clicks, but you're not getting gas, its probably the regulator. They're easy to get online or at a RV store. 5. Once you have it working, use the pressure gauge to check for system leaks. Leave the solenoid on and pressurize the system. Turn off the tank valve. The system should stay at the same pressure for 5 to 10 minutes. If not, you have a leak somewhere you need to find. Good luck! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis" Madeira Beach, FL (847) 404-5092
Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid
Check the solenoid connection, as well. On my boat, the PO used tape to connect the Solenoid wires to the switch. Of course, the connection had come undone. The solenoid was corroded, and still didn't work with a proper connection, so I still had to replace it. A mini me would come in handy when adjusting the steering cables and making electrical connections under the cockpit. David Swensen Freya, 35-3 Beverly, MA On Thu, Mar 31, 2022 at 8:00 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > What Dave said is essentially correct. > > 1. Make sure the tank has gas in it. Shake it, and if you feel liquid > sloshing around, you have fuel. > > 2. Check the solenoid. Have someone flip the switch inside while you're > at the solenoid. It should make a distinct clip and get warm. > > 3. Check the stove and when trying to light it, you should hear the > distinct should of air/gas coming out of the burner(s). Note that > depending on the street, you may have to hold the knob in or do something > else to override the safety to start the burner. Once it is started, there > should be a thermocouple that heats up to allow the flame to keep burning. > If you hear gas/air, you may have to keep at trying to start the unit for a > minute or two to purge the air out of the system. If you're getting the > hissing sound, it's probably not the regulator. > > 4. If the solenoid clicks, but you're not getting gas, its probably the > regulator. They're easy to get online or at a RV store. > > 5. Once you have it working, use the pressure gauge to check for system > leaks. Leave the solenoid on and pressurize the system. Turn off the tank > valve. The system should stay at the same pressure for 5 to 10 minutes. > If not, you have a leak somewhere you need to find. > > Good luck! > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C 37/40+ > "Astralis" > Madeira Beach, FL > (847) 404-5092 > > >
Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid
What Dave said is essentially correct. 1. Make sure the tank has gas in it. Shake it, and if you feel liquid sloshing around, you have fuel. 2. Check the solenoid. Have someone flip the switch inside while you're at the solenoid. It should make a distinct clip and get warm. 3. Check the stove and when trying to light it, you should hear the distinct should of air/gas coming out of the burner(s). Note that depending on the street, you may have to hold the knob in or do something else to override the safety to start the burner. Once it is started, there should be a thermocouple that heats up to allow the flame to keep burning. If you hear gas/air, you may have to keep at trying to start the unit for a minute or two to purge the air out of the system. If you're getting the hissing sound, it's probably not the regulator. 4. If the solenoid clicks, but you're not getting gas, its probably the regulator. They're easy to get online or at a RV store. 5. Once you have it working, use the pressure gauge to check for system leaks. Leave the solenoid on and pressurize the system. Turn off the tank valve. The system should stay at the same pressure for 5 to 10 minutes. If not, you have a leak somewhere you need to find. Good luck! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis" Madeira Beach, FL (847) 404-5092
Stus-List Re: Propane Stove Solenoid
….And weigh the tank to confirm it contains propane. There will be a tare (empty container) weight stamped on the outside. While you’re at it check the certification date on the tank. The solenoid will get warm when it operates and will draw around 1a - if you have an ammeter you can see that. If you think the solenoid is dead, verify the electrical part - wiring and terminations sound and 12v at the solenoid when the breaker and switch are on. If the range is a seaward princess, The oven has a few parts that do fail and are nla, but the stove should work. (The oven is useful for storage) As Alan says you can hear it, but it does take a little while for the propane to find its way from tank to burner at first. And yes- after all that, replace the regulator. Bon appetit. I hope you bought a cutting board from Stu! Dave 33-2 windstar Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 30, 2022, at 4:54 PM, David Risch via CnC-List > wrote: > > Replace the regulator first. I thought it was the solenoid and it was the > regulator. > > From: Todd Williams via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2022 3:28 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Todd Williams > Subject: Stus-List Propane Stove Solenoid > > Like many of us, I am excited to get Indigo Out We Go back into the waters of > Lake Ontario in about a month!!! She is a 1980 C 34 that we bought last > year. She is a great boat for us because she was stored inside in the off > season but many of her accessories were not functioning, leading to a good > financial deal for us. > > One of those accessories is the propane stove and oven. I can’t get the stove > to light. It feels to me like there is gas in the 3 pound cylinder and the > gas lines look intact. I have the solenoid switch turned on. Could it be that > the solenoid has failed? Or is there some other likely trouble in the system? > > This isn’t a huge deal because I bought a transom mount propane grill (summer > cooking is cooler outside) and I bring my white gas backpacking stove on our > multi day adventures. > > Thanks in advance for the wisdom, > > TODD > Sodus Bay, NY
