Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Lots of options.  You could terminate the 2 ends with the typical
connectors and then use a joiner.  You could use you're splicer.  Nothing
will ever be as good as the cable was before it was cut.  I'd ask the yard
to replace the cable.  Period.  They broke it, they should fix it...
Correctly.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, May 28, 2022, 12:07 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the mast
> antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or 'splice'
> the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that claim to
> connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
>
> Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints on
> how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense of
> someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I figured it
> was worth that much to give it a try.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

[Dean McNeill via CnC-List]

Have used the Shakespeare solder-less connectors in the past, on previous 
boats, and they do work well.

Dean
C 34
Halifax NS



smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME cryptographic signature

Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Andy Frame via CnC-List]

Since it's not in a weather exposed location you should be good with a
connector splice. PL-259's on each end, and a -238 barrel in the middle.
I cannot vouch for the solderless Shakespeare connectors. I have never
had a need to use them. All my connections have the center connector
soldered.

If you have to stretch the coax to bring the cut sections together, I
would replace the section that comes from the radio to the mast. You're
not going to want a lot of physical stress on the splice point.

Put some heat shrink on the coax before you put on the connectors.Then
when it's all wired up, check the SWR, and if that's good, seal the
entire length of the splice plus a couple of inches with the heat
shrink. That's more to keep physical movement dampened than actually
protect it from moisture.

I'm stepping the mast on MaryMe this winter and have to run all new coax
and electrical, lights, etc.


On 5/28/2022 6:26 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> About 8" from where it enters the bottom of the mast in the bilge (dry).
> Except for working on my old knees and removing part of the sole, it is
> reachable. I have not found the other end that goes to the radio but I
> suspect it is hidden under the sole that I must remove to see/find it.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Andy Frame via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andy Frame 
> Sent: Sat, May 28, 2022 4:26 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes
>
>
> Where is the cut?
>
> On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>  > The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the
>  > mast antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or
>  > 'splice' the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that
>  > claim to connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
>  >
>  > Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints
>  > on how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense
>  > of someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I
>  > figured it was worth that much to give it a try.
>  >
>  > Thanks,
>  >
>  > Charlie Nelson
>  > Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb
>  > New Bern, NC
>
>  >
>  >
>  >
>
> --
> s/v MaryMe
> 1975 C 24
> Port Labelle, FL USA
> Amateur Radio WD4RCC
>

--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C 24
Port Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC

Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

About 8" from where it enters the bottom of the mast in the bilge (dry). Except 
for working on my old knees and removing part of the sole, it is reachable. I 
have not found the other end that goes to the radio but I suspect it is hidden 
under the sole that I must remove to see/find it. 
Charlie


-Original Message-
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame 
Sent: Sat, May 28, 2022 4:26 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes


Where is the cut?

On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the
> mast antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or
> 'splice' the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that
> claim to connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
>
> Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints
> on how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense
> of someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I
> figured it was worth that much to give it a try.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
>
>
>

--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C 24
Port Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC

Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Andy Frame via CnC-List]

Where is the cut?

On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the
> mast antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or
> 'splice' the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that
> claim to connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc.
>
> Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints
> on how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense
> of someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I
> figured it was worth that much to give it a try.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb
> New Bern, NC
>
>
>

--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C 24
Port Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC

Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have used the Shakespeare connectors. If you make SURE you do not put them on 
crooked and short the coax they work fine.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2022 12:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Antenna cable woes

 

The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the mast 
antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or 'splice' the 
current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that claim to connect the 
shield and the conductor without solder, etc.  

 

Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints on how 
to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense of someone to 
climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I figured it was worth that 
much to give it a try.

 

Thanks,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb

New Bern, NC



 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I addressed this with a 25a dc:dc charger, works great with my 50a hitachi 
alternator And despite the nominal rating difference it wouldn’t surprise me if 
I was actually charging more quickly and efficiently than before.  I do believe 
that the alternator will see less short term heat rise and may see less 
triggering of its thermal protective circuit.  (Which limits its ability to 
charge a deep cycle bank, well documented on marinehowto.com)  I never 
confirmed this but maybe one day I will,  provided I have absolutely nothing 
better to do.   (Lol) 
The “sacrifice” is that I don’t take full advantage of the 200ah lithium bank’s 
rapid charge potential, but this is academic in my case. 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2022, at 8:41 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes there is.
> If you connect an alternator straight to a lithium bank and the BMS opens, 
> you are likely to blow the diodes at best or do a lot of damage with a 
> voltage spike at worst. Besides for that, since lithium batteries can accept 
> a high rate of charge for a long time, they look like a dead short more or 
> less to a small alternator.
> Since the charging profile for lithium is different than any lead battery 
> including the fact all lead batteries should have temperature compensated 
> charging parameters and lithium does not do this, to correctly charge lead 
> batteries and lithium batteries from the same alternator, there is going to 
> have to be a DC-DC charger in there somewhere that uses the correct 
> parameters for the bank it is charging, either lead>lithium or lithium>lead. 
> In my case with a 60 amp alternator on an Atomic 4, I believe my best plan is 
> to charge the start battery and use DC-DC for the lithium bank.
> See 
> https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16228=1=1651155864
>  
> * the A4 is a special case for charging. The pulley that drives the 
> alternator is small, so the alternator spins slower than on almost any other 
> engine. Max current at low RPMs is hell on alternators, that makes them run 
> hot with less cooling air from the slower turning fan. Even with a 120 amp 
> alternator on the engine and loading up with a hair dryer that sucks 90 amps, 
> I have never seen more than 45-50 amps from any alternator.
>  
> I could mess around with my regulator and set it up for lithium, the temp 
> sensor on the alternator should cause it to back off when very hot, but that 
> still doesn’t solve the BMS issue and I still need to charge the start bank 
> somehow.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> From: David Risch via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 1:46 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: David Risch 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again
>  
> Joe,
>  
> We charge house then, a via “Digital Duo”, the start battery.   That seems to 
> be  the norm DC to DC.  Any reason you are doing it otherwise?
>  
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 11:14 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again
>  
> My batteries are pretty well shot, so this is all good info for me as well. I 
> always liked gels myself, but they are getting pretty hard to find now.
> I have been getting pretty tempted to go for a 300ah lithium, it will fit 
> right in and give me a TON more amp-hours. If I go that way I am going to 
> swap the alternator cable to the start battery and use a DC-DC charger for 
> the house bank. One perhaps not appreciated feature of lithium batteries is 
> that they are “stiff”, you maintain around 12.8 volts most of the way to 
> being dead. Wednesday morning I went to check into the Waterway Net and the 
> SSB wasn’t real happy to be seeing 12.4 volts, this would not be an issue 
> with a lithium bank unless it was down to its very last bit of juice.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:12 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; Korbey Hunt 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>  
> I highly recommend Lifeline group 31
>  
> Get Outlook for Android
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>  
> There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all 
> cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There is 
> no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What 
> matters *hugely* is the number of cycles that they can endure before being 
> trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say the 
> least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually considered 
> the best AGM maker.
> FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your local 
> battery shop and see what they charge. They are 

Stus-List Antenna cable woes

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the mast 
antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or 'splice' the 
current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that claim to connect the 
shield and the conductor without solder, etc. 
Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints on how 
to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense of someone to 
climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I figured it was worth that 
much to give it a try.
Thanks,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom C 36 XL/kcbNew Bern, NC

Stus-List Re: insulating VHF antenna mount

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

The shield of the coax is connected to battery negative back at the VHF. If 
stray current is an issue, there may be a bad ground at the base of the mast. 
The plastic shim idea can work for this. There are such things as DC blocks for 
coax, but I cannot seem to find them with PL259 connectors. GMDSS certified 24 
volt radios for ships I think have DC blocks built in to avoid this kind of 
thing, but the cost is quite high.

Do you have an issue yourself or are you just worried about it? I have to say I 
only ever worried about this with aluminum boats, but that doesn’t mean it 
can’t happen to you. I would think grounding the base of the mast back to the 
DC ground bus would put all the metal at the same potential. The mast already 
should have a heavy wire to a keel bolt.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 3:42 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List insulating VHF antenna mount

 

Hey guys, 

Someone here at my boatyard said he had stray current from the VHF antenna 
until he isolated the bracker from the mast. 

 

I googled it but didn't find easy answers.

 

Anybody ever hear of this problem?  I can fab a plastic shim for the bracket 
but how do you isolate metal screws from the metal mast? 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Annapolis

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Yes there is.

If you connect an alternator straight to a lithium bank and the BMS opens, you 
are likely to blow the diodes at best or do a lot of damage with a voltage 
spike at worst. Besides for that, since lithium batteries can accept a high 
rate of charge for a long time, they look like a dead short more or less to a 
small alternator. 

Since the charging profile for lithium is different than any lead battery 
including the fact all lead batteries should have temperature compensated 
charging parameters and lithium does not do this, to correctly charge lead 
batteries and lithium batteries from the same alternator, there is going to 
have to be a DC-DC charger in there somewhere that uses the correct parameters 
for the bank it is charging, either lead>lithium or lithium>lead. In my case 
with a 60 amp alternator on an Atomic 4, I believe my best plan is to charge 
the start battery and use DC-DC for the lithium bank.

See https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16228 

 =1=1651155864

 

* the A4 is a special case for charging. The pulley that drives the alternator 
is small, so the alternator spins slower than on almost any other engine. Max 
current at low RPMs is hell on alternators, that makes them run hot with less 
cooling air from the slower turning fan. Even with a 120 amp alternator on the 
engine and loading up with a hair dryer that sucks 90 amps, I have never seen 
more than 45-50 amps from any alternator. 

 

I could mess around with my regulator and set it up for lithium, the temp 
sensor on the alternator should cause it to back off when very hot, but that 
still doesn’t solve the BMS issue and I still need to charge the start bank 
somehow.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 1:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

 

Joe,

 

We charge house then, a via “Digital Duo”, the start battery.   That seems to 
be  the norm DC to DC.  Any reason you are doing it otherwise?

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 11:14 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Della Barba, Joe mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

 

My batteries are pretty well shot, so this is all good info for me as well. I 
always liked gels myself, but they are getting pretty hard to find now.

I have been getting pretty tempted to go for a 300ah lithium, it will fit right 
in and give me a TON more amp-hours. If I go that way I am going to swap the 
alternator cable to the start battery and use a DC-DC charger for the house 
bank. One perhaps not appreciated feature of lithium batteries is that they are 
“stiff”, you maintain around 12.8 volts most of the way to being dead. 
Wednesday morning I went to check into the Waterway Net and the SSB wasn’t real 
happy to be seeing 12.4 volts, this would not be an issue with a lithium bank 
unless it was down to its very last bit of juice.

 

Joe

Coquina

 

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:12 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com  ; Korbey Hunt 
mailto:kampf2...@hotmail.com> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Batteries again

 

I highly recommend Lifeline group 31

 

Get Outlook for Android 

 

  _  

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com   mailto:j...@dellabarba.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again 

 

There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all 
cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There is 
no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What 
matters *hugely* is the number of cycles that they can endure before being 
trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say the 
least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually considered the 
best AGM maker. 

FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your local 
battery shop and see what they charge. They are worse than Lifelines, but if 
they crap out after a week at least you can return them to the store 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent 

Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

[Korbey Hunt via CnC-List]

I use a propane flash heater.  Connect to freshwater and hang on back deck.  
Infinite hot water.

Get Outlook for Android

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 11:27:11 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net ; Korbey Hunt 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

It gets better the more time you spend on the boat.

Get Outlook for 
Android

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 7:34:44 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.


Well at some point, hopefully it does! This year was a big one.



From: John Read via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:47 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.



Geez John – it never ends :(



John Read



From: John McCrea via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 5:27 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.



thanks



From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 5:26 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.



I think that Kuuma are the closest as a direct replacement, but they don’t last 
too long. Depending on how you use your boat, you may want to consider a water 
heater with a stainless tank. I installed an ISO-Temp heater (they are now part 
of the Webasto group). They come with the temperature regulating valve and they 
are supposed to be quite reliable. But the cost is usually a bit higher.



Marek

1994 C270 Legato

Ottawa, ON



From: John McCrea via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater.



Hello. While working on my packing nut I noticed that one of the hot water 
leads from the heat exchanger snapped off. The inlet fitting was completely 
corroded through. Same with the other exit side. Glad I am still on land!



It is a Force 10 and could even be original. Since they are welded on it is 
time to replace. I noticed that Force 10 no longer makes them and Kuuma is now 
the closest replacement? Looks identical. Anyone have one of these? Thanks.



John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT