Stus-List Re: C 29 Mk1 tuning questions
Doug, Just a note. I also race on a J-30 and the owner's Loos gauge scale had worn off. He talk to Loos and they had him send back the gauge so they calibrate then add a new scale. Don Kern /Fireball, /C 35 Mk2 Bristol, RI On 10/19/2022 8:55 PM, Doug Robinson via CnC-List wrote: YO; It has been our observation that the Loos gauge readings are relative and not specific, our gauge will not match yours. But if you use my gauge (or yours) and measure my rig you can use the same gauge to return to your boat and match settings. We could be wrong in this. One of those races where we interchange crew members, Chris Doyle from Skip Doyle's boat Rocking Chair was delegated to our boat...first thing he did was to loosen the rig and we did well. Wish we had kept those settings, I think we sail to tight. Doug Robinson s/v Nemesis On 10/15/22 18:03, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, We are new owners of Hull#45 "Firefly" and I am interested in hearing if any one has a set of starting rig tension measurements you could share. Loos Gauge numbers would be great. Just replaced the headstay due to wire damage I found under the foil. (Wanted to avoid burying bad wire under the new roller furling). Now working on retuning the rig. All insight and experience sharing welcome! Respectfully, Karl Karl & Doris Kuzis C 29 Mk1 "Firefly"
Stus-List Re: C 29 Mk1 tuning questions
YO; It has been our observation that the Loos gauge readings are relative and not specific, our gauge will not match yours. But if you use my gauge (or yours) and measure my rig you can use the same gauge to return to your boat and match settings. We could be wrong in this. One of those races where we interchange crew members, Chris Doyle from Skip Doyle's boat Rocking Chair was delegated to our boat...first thing he did was to loosen the rig and we did well. Wish we had kept those settings, I think we sail to tight. Doug Robinson s/v Nemesis On 10/15/22 18:03, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List wrote: Hello all, We are new owners of Hull#45 "Firefly" and I am interested in hearing if any one has a set of starting rig tension measurements you could share. Loos Gauge numbers would be great. Just replaced the headstay due to wire damage I found under the foil. (Wanted to avoid burying bad wire under the new roller furling). Now working on retuning the rig. All insight and experience sharing welcome! Respectfully, Karl Karl & Doris Kuzis C 29 Mk1 "Firefly"
Stus-List Re: LF 38 For Sale
Sorry to hear about your health. From the photos, she looks very nice with plenty of upgrades, and thanks for sharing the photos, as I have so far only seen a LF38 in photos. I only wish we were closer! Best wishes. -- Shawn Wright shawngwri...@gmail.com S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto On Mon, Oct 17, 2022 at 8:48 PM ssjohnson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Due to my medical issues I am sad to part with Alegria...1984 Landfall 38 > (#165) that i have owned since 2006. Always sailed in fresh water - Lake > Michigan - fairly well maintained. Some pics below. Price - $42,000. > Contact me off list if interested. Looking for a younger sailor that will > continue the quality tradition. > > https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-aGegqRxjvCR7oyXWLXV_5pUreh6nnMa > > Spencer Johnson > 84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165 > On the hard in Waukegan, IL > :-( > > Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone > >
Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement
Hi David, That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it. As an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside metal with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem. Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have a different amperage rating than the other. Best, Carl On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original push button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. The start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside. I have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen it. Anyone have suggestions on: 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably perform the same type of function?2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? THanks- Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT
Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement
Or a crows foot: https://www.amazon.com/RamPro-Drive-Crowfoot-Wrench-Standard/dp/B0719BLYH3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAjwwL6aBhBlEiwADycBIAUGufZ85TvkPFcoOOKUlpYU9ttVZM_dSGHuXMi6kHS8Fy3LyyFKmhoCcAkQAvD_BwE=174265213818=c=9007832=g=e=8003969220624125976=kwd-1048994898=8433_9618934=crows+foot+wrench=1666194726=eyJxc2MiOiI1LjEyIiwicXNhIjoiNC45NiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTUifQ%3D%3D=8-1-spons=1 Or a dremel! Joel On Wed, Oct 19, 2022 at 11:50 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > something like this might work for the wrench: > > https://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky-adjustable-slip-nut-wrench/1000828297 > > Sorry I can't help with the buttons. > > > -- > Cheers, > Jeff Nelson > Muir Caileag > C 30 - 549 > Armdale Y.C. > > On 2022-10-19 12:29, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: > > I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal > M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole > Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was > able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a > small amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original > push button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow > plug button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled > round collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. > The start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed > and a rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the > outside. I have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if > it is threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly > spaced to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it > and loosen it. Anyone have suggestions on: > > 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably > perform the same type of function? > 2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something > like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? > 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? > > THanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > -- Joel
Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement
something like this might work for the wrench: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky-adjustable-slip-nut-wrench/1000828297 Sorry I can't help with the buttons. -- Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag C 30 - 549 Armdale Y.C. On 2022-10-19 12:29, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original push button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. The start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside. I have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen it. Anyone have suggestions on: 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably perform the same type of function? 2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? THanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT
Stus-List Engine panel button/switch replacement
I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original push button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. The start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside. I have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen it. Anyone have suggestions on: 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably perform the same type of function? 2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? THanks- Dave S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT
