Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I meant "golf" ball



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 14:31 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

A hold ball with a string (and a shopvac) is also a good option

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 11:26 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.

I will post how it goes….

Thanks,
Brian

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Here's one for $1

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and 
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I found 
diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit – if should 
be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾” (?) plywood 
with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which is inaccessible 
behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood and Formica 
surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through another shelf to 
the fill fitting screwed into the deck.

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the holes 
through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds the hose in 
place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire ties or similar 
securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the icebox with the old 
hose in place.

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to go 
up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to 
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the 
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am not 
confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through small 
holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull new hose.  
Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in the new hose to 
have good material all around.

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….

TIA
Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[Korbey Hunt via CnC-List]

What kind of batteries.  I operate 4 100/30 Victon controllers with 10 panels.  
2 feed a start / house bank of 5 group 21 100 amp start/ house batts.  2 feed a 
bank of 2x 200ah lithium batteries that are dedicated to refer and 5cf chest 
freezer.

Works well.

From: Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 12:26:18 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

+1 for the Victron solar controller. I have 1 for each panel, and they talk to 
each othrr.

Douglas Mountjoy
1988 LF 39
Mexico at large
1984 Sabre 34
Port Orchard, WA


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023, 11:11 Nathan Post via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am in the process of figuring out adding solar to my two bank setup (start 
battery + house batteries) and have  been looking at this one:
https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
as a possibility. However, it is relatively expensive and doesn't include 
monitoring or bluetooth connectivity without additional devices. I think I 
might go to go with a Victron controller instead and just charge the house 
batteries with solar but haven't decided for sure. Would be interested if 
anyone has experience with the renology dc-dc mppt charge controller.  One nice 
thing about it is that it will not load down the alternator so much the way the 
bluesea relay suddenly connects the house and starter batteries shortly after 
the engine starts.  Second advantage is supporting a mixed bank if I upgrade 
the house batteries to lithium at some point.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper C 34CB
Portland ME


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo 
(https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W 
panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2 
batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with the 
separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging issues.  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:188ca8700605349b00c1]

On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.

I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C 30-2
Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

+1 for the Victron solar controller. I have 1 for each panel, and they talk
to each othrr.

Douglas Mountjoy
1988 LF 39
Mexico at large
1984 Sabre 34
Port Orchard, WA


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023, 11:11 Nathan Post via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I am in the process of figuring out adding solar to my two bank setup
> (start battery + house batteries) and have  been looking at this one:
>
> https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
> as a possibility. However, it is relatively expensive and doesn't include
> monitoring or bluetooth connectivity without additional devices. I think I
> might go to go with a Victron controller instead and just charge the house
> batteries with solar but haven't decided for sure. Would be interested if
> anyone has experience with the renology dc-dc mppt charge controller.  One
> nice thing about it is that it will not load down the alternator so much
> the way the bluesea relay suddenly connects the house and starter batteries
> shortly after the engine starts.  Second advantage is supporting a mixed
> bank if I upgrade the house batteries to lithium at some point.
>
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
> Nathan Post
> S/V Wisper C 34CB
> Portland ME
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo (
>> https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a
>> 50W panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my
>> 2 batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with
>> the separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging
>> issues.  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.
>>
>> I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single
>> controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they
>> don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
>> Thanks in advance for your help!
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> ‘90 C 30-2
>> Irvington, Va.
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

A hold ball with a string (and a shopvac) is also a good option

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 11:26 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.

I will post how it goes….

Thanks,
Brian

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Here's one for $1

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and 
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I found 
diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit – if should 
be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾” (?) plywood 
with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which is inaccessible 
behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood and Formica 
surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through another shelf to 
the fill fitting screwed into the deck.

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the holes 
through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds the hose in 
place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire ties or similar 
securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the icebox with the old 
hose in place.

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to go 
up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to 
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the 
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am not 
confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through small 
holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull new hose.  
Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in the new hose to 
have good material all around.

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….

TIA
Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have the same (?) setup.

Morning Star has a MPPT version, as well. Mine is the old style (it is over 10 
yo).

I like the remote (wired) monitor. It also has temperature probe option, which 
might be useful for some.

One issue with my monitor is that one of the buttons stopped working (almost). 
Maybe a quality issue.

It is a 10 A controller, so it can be used with much larger panel. I have a 50 
W, which is more than sufficient for my needs.

Marek

1984 C270 Legato
Ottawa Ontario



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 13:57 (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo 
(https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W 
panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2 
batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with the 
separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging issues.  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.

I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C 30-2
Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I am in the process of figuring out adding solar to my two bank setup
(start battery + house batteries) and have  been looking at this one:
https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
as a possibility. However, it is relatively expensive and doesn't include
monitoring or bluetooth connectivity without additional devices. I think I
might go to go with a Victron controller instead and just charge the house
batteries with solar but haven't decided for sure. Would be interested if
anyone has experience with the renology dc-dc mppt charge controller.  One
nice thing about it is that it will not load down the alternator so much
the way the bluesea relay suddenly connects the house and starter batteries
shortly after the engine starts.  Second advantage is supporting a mixed
bank if I upgrade the house batteries to lithium at some point.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper C 34CB
Portland ME


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 1:57 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo (
> https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W
> panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2
> batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with
> the separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging
> issues.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.
>
> I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single
> controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they
> don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> ‘90 C 30-2
> Irvington, Va.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo 
(https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W 
panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2 
batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with the 
separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging issues.  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.  
> 
> I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
> controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
> don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
> Thanks in advance for your help!
> Pete W.
> Siren Song 
> ‘90 C 30-2
> Irvington, Va.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Dual output solar controller

[Peter W. via CnC-List]

I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.  

I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
 Thanks in advance for your help!
Pete W.
Siren Song 
‘90 C 30-2
Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I'd highly recommend trying to leave the new hose either out in the sun or
use a heat gun to get it as playable as you can without exceeding the rated
temperature

You can use soap and water on the exterior but doesn't usually help as much
and contra to what the heat will help with.

Same goes with the heat on the old one that probably has a whole lot of
memory of its current location/route


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023, 8:27 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and
> have sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the
> local Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be
> attempted tomorrow, so no time for shipping.
>
>
>
> Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end
> as a backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall
> people using a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on
> the other end to pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two
> hoses / coupler with duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board]
> to hopefully secure it.  There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has
> been Shanghaied into helping, and will have handy what is called the
> “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.
>
>
>
> I will post how it goes….
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Jonathan Tebbens 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement
>
>
>
> Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis
> notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through
> everything.
>
> Jon Tebbens
>
> 78 Mega
>
> Katherine
>
>
>
> On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes
> loose, you're cooked.
>
>
>
> Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.
>
>
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
>
>
> Here's one for $1
>
>
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
>
>
> --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>
>
>
> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
> icebox with the old hose in place.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
> go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
> hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>
>
>
> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
> punched in the new hose to have good material all around.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> Brian
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.  

 

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list. 

 

I will post how it goes….

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

 

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.

Jon Tebbens

78 Mega

Katherine 

 

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

 

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0
 

 
=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds

 

Here's one for $1

 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0
 

 
=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

 

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and 
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I found 
diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit – if should 
be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾” (?) plywood 
with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which is inaccessible 
behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood and Formica 
surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through another shelf to 
the fill fitting screwed into the deck. 

 

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the holes 
through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds the hose in 
place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire ties or similar 
securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the icebox with the old 
hose in place.  

 

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to go 
up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to 
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the 
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.  

 

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am not 
confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through small 
holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull new hose.  
Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in the new hose to 
have good material all around.  

 

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….  

 

TIA

Brian

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu




 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List]

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through
everything.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine


On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes
> loose, you're cooked.
>
> Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
> Here's one for $1
>
>
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
>> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
>> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
>> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
>> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
>> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
>> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
>> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
>> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
>> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
>> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
>> icebox with the old hose in place.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it
>> to go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose
>> to hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
>> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
>> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
>> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
>> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
>> punched in the new hose to have good material all around.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….
>>
>>
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Brian
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose,
you're cooked.

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Here's one for $1

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>
>
>
> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
> icebox with the old hose in place.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
> go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
> hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>
>
>
> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
> punched in the new hose to have good material all around.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> Brian
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Hi Brian, get a friend to help. I like the tying the hoses together. One
push the other pull. Lay the hose in the sun for several hours.
When I did my hoses. I had to remove old before installing new. Tied a
string on old. Used this to help guide new. I could get to all the places
it went through holes, but it was still a PITA.
Good luck
Doug

Douglas Mountjoy
1988 C LF 39
Mexico at large
1984 Sabre 34
Port Orchard, WA


On Sat, Jun 17, 2023, 04:55 nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry
> and wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.
> [I found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the
> culprit – if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes
> through a ¾” (?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into
> a space which is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up
> through a 1” plywood and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the
> hull, then through another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck.
>
>
>
> The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
> holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
> the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
> ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
> icebox with the old hose in place.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
> go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
> hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
> inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.
>
>
>
> Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it
> [am not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings
> through small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well]
> to pull new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be
> punched in the new hose to have good material all around.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> Brian
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I
found diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit –
if should be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾”
(?) plywood with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which
is inaccessible behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood
and Formica surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through
another shelf to the fill fitting screwed into the deck. 

 

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the
holes through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds
the hose in place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire
ties or similar securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the
icebox with the old hose in place.  

 

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to
go up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.  

 

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am
not confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through
small holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull
new hose.  Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in
the new hose to have good material all around.  

 

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….  

 

TIA

Brian

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu