Stus-List Re: Hatch in head
Hi John, The boat is named COMP and is located in Pine Island Bay on a town mooring. Winter store at Pine Island Marina. Where in Noank are you located? Your 34 came with a hatch in the head? I ended up cutting one in about 6 years back. Best, Carl On Saturday, December 10, 2022 at 04:40:16 PM EST, John Read via CnC-List wrote: HI Carl. The forward hatch has screws. My query is about the ventilation hatch in the head – no screws Nice to see another 34 in Groton. Your boat name and where located? John Read Legacy III 1982 C 34 Noank, CT From: Carl Freeman via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2022 10:10 AM To: Stus-List Cc: Carl Freeman Subject: Stus-List Re: Hatch in head John, Butyl is the way to go on these. The hatch is only held in with self tapping screws. As Paul mentioned the seal can have issues on the very back of hatch where the joint is. Carl Freeman 1979 C Groton, CT On Dec 10, 2022, at 8:34 AM, Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote: John, There is no flange on these and the perimeter is vertical, top to bottom. Also, the hinge side has seal issue and is prone to leaking. Not a great design. I took mine out about 8 years ago, changed the seal, plexi, and reset it. I can’t remember what I did in the resetting process but it has been 98% good since then. It’s not perfect with the odd drip occasionally, but I’m leaving well enough alone. I know that’s not much help for you. Paul Hood REFUGE - ’81 C Georgian Bay From: John Read via CnC-List Sent: December 9, 2022 10:03 PM To: 'Stus-List' Cc: John Read Subject: Stus-List Hatch in head https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-1 My Atkins & Hoyle hatch in the head has developed a leak between the aluminum frame and the deck. Have tried various sealants which all have failed mainly because they lose adhesion to the vertical aluminum surface. Cannot figure out how to remove the frame so I can clean it and reseal (with butyl?). There are no visible flanges. It is a tight fit to the hole cur in the deck. Has anyone had similar issues? Is there a flange on the frame that is sealed to the underside of the deck? Is it just glued in with plexus or similar? All thoughts welcomed John Read Legacy III 1982 C 34 Noank, CT Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Hatch in head
John,Butyl is the way to go on these. The hatch is only held in with self tapping screws. As Paul mentioned the seal can have issues on the very back of hatch where the joint is. Carl Freeman1979 CGroton, CTOn Dec 10, 2022, at 8:34 AM, Paul Hood via CnC-List wrote:John, There is no flange on these and the perimeter is vertical, top to bottom. Also, the hinge side has seal issue and is prone to leaking. Not a great design. I took mine out about 8 years ago, changed the seal, plexi, and reset it. I can’t remember what I did in the resetting process but it has been 98% good since then. It’s not perfect with the odd drip occasionally, but I’m leaving well enough alone. I know that’s not much help for you. Paul HoodREFUGE - ’81 C Georgian Bay From: John Read via CnC-List Sent: December 9, 2022 10:03 PMTo: 'Stus-List' Cc: John Read Subject: Stus-List Hatch in head https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-1 My Atkins & Hoyle hatch in the head has developed a leak between the aluminum frame and the deck. Have tried various sealants which all have failed mainly because they lose adhesion to the vertical aluminum surface. Cannot figure out how to remove the frame so I can clean it and reseal (with butyl?). There are no visible flanges. It is a tight fit to the hole cur in the deck. Has anyone had similar issues? Is there a flange on the frame that is sealed to the underside of the deck? Is it just glued in with plexus or similar? All thoughts welcomed John ReadLegacy III1982 C 34Noank, CT Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills. Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Vang repair
Hi Matt, Did you consider riveting it in? They will often fit in screw holes that were pulled out, are easy to install, and are quite strong. If you get to a larger rivet size a cheap hydraulic puller from Harbor Freight will get the job done nicely. Rivnuts are nice but they are not likely to take the load that is going to be put on the fitting. They also have a tendency to loosen up over time causing them to spin in the hole. They have their place, just more suited for things such as panels and nonstructural items. Good luck, CarlC, CT On Monday, October 31, 2022 at 09:22:57 AM EDT, Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote: Listers: I'm about to undertake a repair and could use some advice. On an overnight delivery in August we were on a broad reach in large waves and the main unexpectedly jibed. We promptly put on a preventer. In the morning I found 8 sheared off cap socket screws from the boom vang lying on the deck. The vang is secured with a fitting that can be moved fore and aft in a channel on the underside of the boom. The channel runs the length of the boom. Whoever installed the fitting originally found a suitable location for the vang and drilled/tapped holes to securely mount the fitting into a piece of aluminum that is integral to the channel inside the boom. Inspection of the holes indicates that several were damaged when the cap socket screws were sheared. I'm glad no one was near that boom when the main jibed. My options are: 1) move the vang fitting and drill/tap new holes; 2) drill/tap the existing holes with larger bolts (which may be too large to fit in the vang fitting); or 3) install helicoil inserts in the existing holes (which I've never used before). Thoughts? Matt C 42 Custom
Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery
Hi Dave, what brand engine is it? We will assume you have the key switch right. Sounds like a bad connection of some sort, since your starter has been giving you issues I would check there first. Many engines receive all of their power at the main starter terminal. A poor connection there or at the battery could be causing all of your problems. Pictures help. Good luck, Carl On Tuesday, October 25, 2022 at 02:57:44 PM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: HELP! I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good. Turn on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards? Dave Sent from my iPhone
Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement
Occasionally you will get a push button that will not cooperate. Worse case scenario grab the back of the switch with water pump pliers or vice grips and drill out the center of the switch. Start a little undersized as it is likely that the switch will break off. The push button will probably be able to be ripped off the switch with pliers allowing you access to the center. Good luck. COMP1979 C 34Groton, CT On Thursday, October 20, 2022 at 11:46:20 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I took the boot off and tried to loosen the collar on the outside, but no luck. That is why I am not sure there isn't some hidden trick. Sprayed it with PB Blaster and will try again next time I am on the boat. It is possible that the PO put a different push button in, but I can't find anything like that one in the Cole Hersey catalog. The other push button and the new ones all have boots that pop on. This one the boot seems more securely attached, which might be more weather resistant. I think the outside collar actually trapped the rubber boot. Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT On Oct 19, 2022, at 12:03 PM, Carl Freeman via CnC-List wrote: Hi David, That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it. As an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside metal with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem. Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have a different amperage rating than the other. Best, Carl On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original push button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. The start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside. I have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen it. Anyone have suggestions on: 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably perform the same type of function?2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? THanks- Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT
Stus-List Re: Engine panel button/switch replacement
Hi David, That back up nut on the backside will loosen it up if you can get at it. As an alternative you can cut the rubber boot off and grab the outside metal with a pair of vice grips or something similar. Sounds like it is no good anyway so tearing it up shouldn't be a problem. Regarding different switches, one may have been replaced in the past or have a different amperage rating than the other. Best, Carl On Wednesday, October 19, 2022 at 11:30:39 AM EDT, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: I spent some time yesterday replacing the original engine panel (Universal M4-30) buttons/switches and ran into a problem. I had bought a new Cole Hersee key switch and two push button switches for the replacement. I was able to replace the key switch and the glow plug button easily (only a small amount of blood and pain). However, I realized that the original push button start switch is different from the glow plug button. The glow plug button has a rubber hood that can be easily removed and a knurled round collar nut on the outside and another nut on the inside to secure it. The start button has a rubber hood that appears not designed to be removed and a rounded collar piece with no knurling that secures it on the outside. I have been unable to remove that collar and it is not clear if it is threaded. The inside nut is different as well, and it is so tightly spaced to the body that I have not found a tool thin enough to get to it and loosen it. Anyone have suggestions on: 1. Why these two push button switches are different when the presumably perform the same type of function?2. A flat tool that can get to a narrow space for a large nut (something like a bicycle pedal wrench but adjustable)? 3. How that start push button switch is supposed to come apart? THanks- Dave S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT
