Stus-List Re: ABYC Propane standards

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I just had an insurance survey in Ontario.
CO detector was "required".
Smoke detector was "recommended".
Propane detector was neither "required" or "recommended".

We had to add the CO detectors and we also added a smoke alarm.

This was all driven by Insurance requirements :-)


On Wed, May 31, 2023 at 1:23 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm swapping out my old CNG 2 burner stove for a propane unit. My question
> is do I need a fume detector for the new propane  system? I know I need a
> shutoff valve.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Doug
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 1985 Bomar hatch gasket source?

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I have used this before.
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C6880%7C2290165=834163#
When I bought it it was $7/ftnow a bit more! Worked well for me.

Also have you tried these guysHammerhead Nautical Systems in Toronto?
http://www.hhns.ca/


On Mon, Dec 26, 2022 at 3:37 PM Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello all – have moved my hatch refurbishment ahead somewhat, and have the
> powder coated frames back, and have the replacement acrylic in the shop,
> ready to be cut.
>
>
>
> I need to order the extruded black foam (neoprene?) rope style
> gasketing.   I have attempted to measure the squashed-but-still-resilient
> originals and there may be two diameters, .50” for the smaller hatch and
> around .56” for the larger.   (so, ½” and 9/16” maybe?  Or maybe just
> 9/16”?)
>
>
>
> Does anyone know the correct dimension and specification of this material,
> and where it can be sourced?
>
>
>
> Thanks!   Dave
>
> 1985 33-2 Windstar.
>
>
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I bought some leather pieces from OA Leather.
Bought some cheap leather working tools on Amazon for punching holes and
did it myself.
I think the total cost was around $80 and looks as good as the Edson
version.

Probably one of the most satisfying things I have done to the boat since I
owned it :-)

On Sun, Nov 27, 2022 at 8:25 PM Thomas Perison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have mine wrapped w line. Good feel- inexpensive- and been on 20yrs /
> still looks good.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 27, 2022, at 7:02 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?
> I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.
> The Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of
> stock.  Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there
> better sources?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis, Md
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Tom
>
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Don Marlin
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Engine controls and Auto Pilots

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

My experience is with a C 40. When we first got my boat it had a
functioning ST4000+ wheel pilot. It was fine motoring and sailing in light
winds.
Based on the literature, our boat is technically too heavy for the ST4000+.

My main complaints for the ST4000+ Wheel Pilot:
1) it was noisy...and it is not a pleasant noise as load increases. Think
nails on a chalkboard
2) when it got overpowered the AP gave up and simply stopped controlling
3) it was erratic but this might be due to compass placement or the fact it
always seemed behind the boat.

The PO installation was also missing the rudder feedback sensor as well as
one of the wheel pilot connections to the wheel. The first thing(s) I did
were to add the third wheel mount as well as the rudder feedback. This
helped a little but the AP was still unreliable.
I view the AP as a safety feature so it needs to be reliable.

I decided to upgrade to a below deck AP. I chose to add an Octopus
hydraulic ram. One nice thing about the ST4000+ is it has a clutch output
so in theory it can drive a below deck unit with minimum modifications.

The ST4000+ does not have much current drive capability. I believe it can
supply a max of 5 amps.  Most hydraulic drives require more current so I
added a solid state H-Bridge to interface to the hydraulic pump. This was
about another $100-$150. Finally you need to change the configuration to
enable the rudder feedback and clutch output (set the unit to be an
ST5000+). We now have a very reliable and capable AP.

Looking to the future, the current Raymarine offering has the EV-100,
EV-200, EV-300 etc.
The EV-100 is similar in capability to the ST4000+ BUT it does not have the
ability to drive a clutch. This is critical for any below deck AP. The
EV-200 can drive a clutch BUT is about twice the price of the EV-100. This
is an important distinction because if someone was buying an AP and they
were unsure if the wheel pilot was good enoughthen it is a big gamble.
If the wheel pilot does not work you have to replace a bunch of stuff to
convert your new AP to drive a below deck AP on top of the below deck
actuator.

If it was me, anything 35' or larger would automatically be a below deck
system.


On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 12:31 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Same for my 4000 plus. It needed the rudder sensor to work at all. What a
> PITA installing the rudder sensor was. When the Raymarine 4000 plus works
> well on my boat I can use it to steer the boat straight upwind to hoist the
> mainsail and I can use it while motoring but it seems to adjust too much
> when sailing off the wind so I just don’t use it for that.
>
> On Sun, Oct 24, 2021 at 8:02 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> That's what I was wondering about. When I bought my 4000 Plus, the sales
>> guy at defender said I didn't need the rudder feedback unit. But it was
>> pretty worthless and I was very disappointed. Once I put the rudder
>> feedback unit in, it worked brilliantly. The brains need to know where the
>> rudder is otherwise it's just shooting in the dark. I wouldn't want to
>> dissuade you from going to the hydraulic unit, as they are definitely
>> superior. But I think you would be very surprised at how good it would work
>> with the 4000 Plus and a rudder feedback.
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 4:45 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill,
>>> My manual and technical records are  on the boat so I had to google
>>> “rudder feedback arm”. Ete’ does not have a separate one. All feedback
>>> signaling appears to happen via the wheel apparatus and dealt with in the
>>> control head. As arms are readily  available new I would guess that they
>>> are used in more current models. My Autohelm Wheel Pilot is quite old - 20
>>> years? Shortly after I bought the boat in 2015 I looked into replacing the
>>> autopilot. I remember that the latest wheel units were rated for no heavier
>>> a boat. It’s at that point that I realized I would need to spring for and
>>> shoehorn in an under deck unit. An engine replacement and compartment refit
>>> in 2019 put that item off  a couple of years. I hope this helps.
>>>
>>> Hans R
>>> S/V Ete’
>>> 1982 C
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Oct 24, 2021, at 12:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>> Hans, does your 4000 unit have the rudder feedback arm?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 24, 2021, 1:52 PM Hans Reinhardt via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Chuck,
 My 1982 C came with the older Autohelm 4000 (Raymarine) autopilot.
 The  unit is supposedly not that different than the latest model you are
 considering. Mine is inadequate downwind even in our relatively protected
 central Puget Sound waters. It is affected by more than wind speed - random
 puffs, wind shifts, crossing wave patterns,  large boat wakes, boat roll,

Stus-List Re: Auto pilot???

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

My 40 had a wheel pilot when I bought it. (ST4000+ and the wheel ring)
It was only useful for motoring in calm seas.
The mechanism would get overpowered in anything else and then it would just
quit trying.
I viewed it as a safety item and so I have since upgraded to a hydraulic
ram on the quadrant and it works much better.

I left the electronics alone (ST4000+) so that will need to be upgraded
when the budget allows.
For now it is reliable in the sense the mechanics don't get overpowered.

If you are starting from scratch I would find a way to install a below
decks AP.


On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 11:11 AM Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am looking for suggestions on an auto pilot for our 40-2. I don't think
> the Raymarine wheel pilot will work good enough. Anybody got suggestions on
> either s wheel mount or a quadrant mount. What do you use???  Also I would
> like to be able to connect to my B Zues3 down the line.  Thanks for any
> input.
> Ted
> Ten-Ten
> Punta Gorda,Fl.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

The iSeries comes with everything to measure tanks including the senders
and it cost me about $200cdn.
I already have a lot of electronics aboard (Raymarine, NMEA200, Raspberry
Pi, Yatch Devices etc.) but could not bring myself to spend $ on networked
tank monitoring.
This is a low tech solution that works fine for us.

One reason I liked it was I did not have to cut into any of the tanks.
This is a capacitive sensor that sticks on the outside.
Some folks don't like that but it has worked perfectly even on the holding
tank.

Anyhow, there are many options but all the others I looked at were more
intrusive and more expensive.

As always YMMV :-)


On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 12:30 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Calypso has had the Tank Tender system in place for over 20 years. I
> monitor the diesel tank and 2 water tanks. Once I learned/charted the
> correlation between pressure readings and quantity of fluid in each tank it
> has been very reliable as an indicator.
>
> I installed a different type of system in the holding tank that gives
> “green/yellow/red” light indication of holding tank levels.  That system
> requires occasional cleaning of the float switches to remain accurate.
>
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Ludlow
>
> On Mar 31, 2021, at 8:38 AM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Thanks for the ideas. I used my dinghy foot pump to blow out the vent on
> the port tank, which resulted in increased flow from that tank. I think I
> need to replace the senders in both tanks to get accurate readings on tank
> levels. Neighbor on the dock suggests a Tank Tender. Any suggestions?
>
> Peter McMinn
>
>  _/)
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This sounds likely – My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump
>> in the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank
>> drain, up to the faucet – this would also blast over to the other tank, and
>> likely blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank
>> and clean.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks.  It
>> could be;
>>
>>  - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee,
>>
>>  - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed,
>>
>>  - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum.  Which does
>> not allow the water to flow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it
>> wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the
>> water flow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>> To: "'Stus-List'" 
>> Cc: Rick Brass 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400
>>
>> My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the
>> tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T
>> under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.
>>
>>
>>
>> Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could
>> see no good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it
>> was there to stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so
>> I left them in place when I replaced the hoses a while back.
>>
>>
>>
>> Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>
>>
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and
>> the Starboard tank does not.
>>
>> Drives me crazy.
>>
>> Adam c 36
>>
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set
>> to open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side.
>> I’d assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the
>> stbd tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full.
>> Can someone venture to what’s going on? I’ve read this 2015 discussion
>> 

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

We use this on our 40.
The 40 has dual 30G water tanks.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

I also use it on my holding tank.
All the tanks are the original Poly.

Been installed for 2 years, I like it.
Works fine and did not break the bank.


On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 11:38 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the ideas. I used my dinghy foot pump to blow out the vent on
> the port tank, which resulted in increased flow from that tank. I think I
> need to replace the senders in both tanks to get accurate readings on tank
> levels. Neighbor on the dock suggests a Tank Tender. Any suggestions?
>
> Peter McMinn
>
>  _/)
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This sounds likely – My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump
>> in the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank
>> drain, up to the faucet – this would also blast over to the other tank, and
>> likely blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank
>> and clean.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks.  It
>> could be;
>>
>>  - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee,
>>
>>  - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed,
>>
>>  - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum.  Which does
>> not allow the water to flow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it
>> wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the
>> water flow.
>>
>>
>>
>> Danny
>>
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>> To: "'Stus-List'" 
>> Cc: Rick Brass 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400
>>
>> My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the
>> tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T
>> under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.
>>
>>
>>
>> Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could
>> see no good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it
>> was there to stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so
>> I left them in place when I replaced the hoses a while back.
>>
>>
>>
>> Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>
>>
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and
>> the Starboard tank does not.
>>
>> Drives me crazy.
>>
>> Adam c 36
>>
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are set
>> to open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard side.
>> I’d assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but the
>> stbd tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains full.
>> Can someone venture to what’s going on? I’ve read this 2015 discussion
>> ,
>> but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some
>> exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from
>> equalizing. Ideas are welcome.
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I have a 1983 C 40 AC.
It has the original engine, Westerbeke W33 still going well.
I pulled it 2 yrs ago and redid seals, gaskets, injectors, damper plate etc.
This winter I had the tranny rebuilt.

If the engine is running fine and shows no issues then a light refresh like
I did might be the way to go. It is a fraction of the cost of a new one.
I expect to get a few more years out of mine and then will explore a
saildrive :-)
My engine is around 3500-4000hours.
Of course this is a diesel so maybe different than an Atomic 4.

On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 11:37 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adam,
>
> I’m still working full time and we want to explore more of Florida and
> beyond without having to take weeks off to do it. That, along with a few
> health issues, means it’s time for, if you pardon the term, The Next
> Generation of the Enterprise.
>
> There will be an Enterprise-C for certain, but it’s looking more and more
> doubtful she’ll be a sailboat.  I know it’s the wrong franchise, but we may
> be going over to The Dark Side.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2021, at 11:20 AM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ed
>
>
> You are selling the Enterprise?   What do you have your eye on now?
>
> Adam
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
> --
> *From:* Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 12:08:15 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Edd Schillay 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 40
>
> Joe,
>
> Perhaps you should think about a newer model C 40-footer with a 2015
> engine (490 hours)?
>
> https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1990-c-c-37-40-plus-7686696/
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 18, 2021, at 10:59 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Would buying a C 40 with an original engine be a good idea in 2021?
> We are running some numbers here and it is basically a choice between
> upgrading and replacing. Coquina is 48 years old now and it is time to do
> some $$$ upgrades or buy another boat with much of the work done. We found
> a used C 40 that looks gorgeous below, the interior beats most used boats
> of that era. She seems in good shape, but the engine is original with
> 3,000+ hours. An Atomic 4 per the manual should be rebuilt at 3,000 hours
> if FWC, a raw water cooled version would be very lucky to get that far in
> salt water. The Yanmar is FWC. I frequently hear that diesels can last
> 10,000 hours, but then again a significant number of boats from that era
> are for sale with new engines.
> Also re the rod rigging – the mast is out for the winter. With the rigging
> easily accessed, what would the cost be of a rigging inspection to assure
> that the rod is still good.
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

Coroplast won't hold up. It doesn't survive UV and when hot gets very soft.
If you use a backing, best to use Polycarbonate sheet.
It is what they use for green house panels.

This is what I have done and it is working well.
I learned the hard way and destroyed one of my panels before that.

Backing vs no backing is a dice roll. I have a friend who has no backing
and his panels are doing OK.
In my situation I tried coroplast backing and that failed in the first
season.

What I do know is flexible panels are VERY fragile and will tolerate zero
abuse. The faster they are bonded
to something stiff, the less likely you have of cracking and destroying
cells. It does not take much abuse to
kill an entire panel.

As they say...YMMV


On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 6:44 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Joel
> Had thought (briefly) about heat mitigation, but like you I enjoy a 5
> month season here in the Toronto area, and I doubt it's the same issue it
> might be in South Florida or elsewhere.  To Josh's point - the air is
> moving under the bimini.  I'm more concerned about the weight on the
> unsupported fabric over time.
>
> Worthwhile?  Dunno yet.I haven't tested the setup, but really it
> depends on your objective.The 33ii has space constraints for both
> panels and batteries, and as a result my expectation is to extend the time
> between charging, not to eliminate charging.   We'll see.   In theory, If I
> were able to accommodate another 50w of reliable generation, windstar could
> be 100% off the grid.
>
>  Cost of the panel and controller is around C$500+ (you can verify on
> Renogy.ca.)  Battery choices are another  consideration, and can get spendy
> quickly.. I bought two lithium group 35s totalling 220ah. if you click
> around on that blog you'll see further documentation and all the associated
> arithmetic and (excessive...lol) reasoning.  This area is new to me, I had
> a lot of input from experienced folks on the list and much is shared there.
> This includes an inventory of the power consumption by item on Windstar
> which may save you (or your wife) some time.
>
> Dave 33-2
>
> On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 00:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient.  That's the
>> reason for controlling their heat if possible.  If mounting on a fabric
>> such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would
>> change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin.
>> On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard
>> surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the
>> backing.  On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads.  Now I
>> wish I had though about coroplast.  That's a great idea.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
>>> They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
>>> It let airflow
>>> Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project
>>> My wife just added that to my list
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.


 https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html

 Dave
 Windstar 33-2


 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
 with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 Thanks - Stu
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel Delamirande
>>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Rudder Rebuild on C 25 MK1

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

Stephen, I have built many rudders. I just finished a year building rudders
for a living as a break from my normal gig. It was a nice sabbatical but
quite demanding physically. If you want a nice rudder built for you contact
Competition Composites, they build nice products.

For a transom hung rudder you cannot (should not) use just foam in the
core. When we built transom hung rudders they were either mostly glassed
wood cores or a composite foam core with a fairly substantial wood stringer
laminated in the centre. When we had foam/wood composite cores there was
usually lots of carbon uni involved as well. I have built a few Shark
rudders as well as a Mirage 25 rudder. They were always solid wood cores.

It sounds like yours is a wood core possibly (probably) with a glass skin.
Coincidently I just rebuilt my Oday Mariner rudder. It is transome hung
with a wood core/glass skin.

For that rebuild I sanded off all the old skin, checked for/fixed any rot
and then reskinned with 2 layers of 6 or 10oz cloth + epoxy. I can contact
you off list if you want more specific details on the process but generally
it is not difficult, just takes some time and care.

Hope that helps
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Re: Stus-List ​Westerbeke W33 Advice

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

The C Aft Cabin has the engine under the cockpit sole and the cockpit
floor is removable.So it was not a lot of work or expense to remove the
engine.
Lifted it from mounts to my engine cart in one move, only paid minimum for
the crane. everything went reasonably well, no cutoff wheel was required.

I do appreciate everyone's advice. A re-power is not in the cards but I am
cognizant of the age (hours + calendar) on this engine.
It is a struggle to limit the amount of work I want to dothe parts add
up in cost especially in Canada.

If anyone knows a good source for Mitsubishi small block diesels in Canada
I would love to hear about it. The engine is a Mitsubishi KE 150 1.490 ltr.
Westerbeke parts are priced like the are made of gold.

Thanks.

On Tue, Dec 11, 2018 at 7:46 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
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> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Westerbeke W33 Advice (Bill Coleman)
>2. Re:  [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice (dwight veinot)
>3. Re:  [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice (svrebeccaleah)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2018 15:43:30 -0500
> From: "Bill Coleman" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]   Re:  Westerbeke W33 Advice
> Message-ID: <0a7901d49192$2d1f0f50$875d2df0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I think you?re discounting all the work that goes into engine removal and
> reinstall, it is a lot. Worse on some boats than other, of course.  I am
> sure you realize we are talking about a lot more then pulling a 20 dollar
> bill out of your pocket.   .  I think you (Joe) may have done a reinstall,
> and  maybe some people like that work. I do it, but I don?t like it.
>
> Also, how long you are going to keep the boat. When you get to 4,000 Hours
> on an engine, it?s kind of like hitting 65 ? you might have another 25 good
> years in you, or  . . . not. You?re never sure.
>
> There is a great feeling of confidence  of leaving the dock with a new
> engine.
>
> Also, there is always a great secondary market for good, used engines. I
> sold my used Perkins on Ebay with no problem, after installing a nice,
> smooth running Kubota.
>
> K sara, k sara.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 9:53 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Westerbeke W33 Advice
>
>
>
> $20 seal vs. $10,000 engine?
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 8:42 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice
>
>
>
> Wow.
>
> If I had gone that far, with an engine with 3K hours, there is no way that
> I wouldn?t put a new engine in there.
>
> I have been down that road a couple times, and the time and effort . . .
> The new breed of diesels are just so much nicer.
>
> Too bad Cummins doesn?t make small diesels.
>
>
>
> Just my opinion, of course.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
> Marlin via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2018 9:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Don Marlin
> Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice
>
>
>
> I pulled the engine this fall so I could work on the engine compartment.
> Boat is a 40-2 Aft Cabin so engine is relatively easy to pull.
>
>
>
> Plan was/is to do basic stuff like mounts, wiring, hoses, injectors, valve
> adjust. Plan is not to rebuild the engine. Engine has ~3000 hrs. Does not
> seem to have any issues.
>
>
>
> The question I have for those who might know is how hard is it to change
> crank seals. What special tools would I need access to? For clarity I
> already have transmission, damper plate and flywheel off on th

Stus-List Westerbeke W33 Advice

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I pulled the engine this fall so I could work on the engine compartment.
Boat is a 40-2 Aft Cabin so engine is relatively easy to pull.

Plan was/is to do basic stuff like mounts, wiring, hoses, injectors, valve
adjust. Plan is not to rebuild the engine. Engine has ~3000 hrs. Does not
seem to have any issues.

The question I have for those who might know is how hard is it to change
crank seals. What special tools would I need access to? For clarity I
already have transmission, damper plate and flywheel off on the PTO side.
Of course there is a picture :-)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NB4JiY8mQb1Is6OXOlHCbHvwYA4hTriX/view?usp=sharing

There is a small leak on PTO side. I don't think it is terrible but still a
little leak.
Timing cover side seems to be leak free.

Thanks in advance.
___

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Stus-List ​Re: Below deck auto pilot installation for C 40 (David)

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

My boat is a 1983 C 40 AC. The aft part should be similar to most C
40's.

Thanks David. Specifically I was looking for ideas around the quadrant.
Right now the quadrant is tight between the rudder tube and the deck and
there is no space. I have seen others online who have used the existing
quadrant but I view this as option B. So I like to see what others have
done and then decide on the scope. Thanks Dave for the link, shelf looks
good and will ado[pt some ideas. I plan to use an Octopus drive and
Raymarine head.


On Wed, Jun 6, 2018 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1.
> ​​
> Re:  Below deck auto pilot installation for C 40 (David)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2018 15:59:12 +
> From: David 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Below deck auto pilot installation for C 40
> Message-ID:
>  16.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> Dave...call my  cell to discuss.
>
>
> David F. Risch, J. D.
>
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
>
> (401) 419-4650
>
>
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave Godwin
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2018 11:50 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dave Godwin; Don Marlin
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Below deck auto pilot installation for C 40
>
> Not 40? owner but perhaps the under-cockpit space in our 37? (1980?s
> version?) is similar. I did this<http://roninrebuild.blogs
> pot.com/2014/02/autopilots-from-wheel-to-below-deck.html>. Not perfect
> but it works.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>
> On Jun 6, 2018, at 11:34 AM, Don Marlin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> I am starting to plan a below deck Autopilot for my C 40. I have looked
> below and it is clear that I will need to make some modifications to
> support a tiller arm. I was wondering if there are any other 40 owners who
> could share pictures of their installations. Currently I have a wheel pilot
> and it is good for motoring and light winds. Looking for something more
> capable.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Don Marlin
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> --
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> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 149, Issue 21
> *
>



-- 
Don Marlin
(613) 832 4040
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Below deck auto pilot installation for C 40

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I am starting to plan a below deck Autopilot for my C 40. I have looked
below and it is clear that I will need to make some modifications to
support a tiller arm. I was wondering if there are any other 40 owners who
could share pictures of their installations. Currently I have a wheel pilot
and it is good for motoring and light winds. Looking for something more
capable.

Thanks in advance

Don Marlin
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Pulling engine from C 40 Aft Cabin

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

I am planning to pull the engine from my C 40 Aft Cabin this fall.
The goals are to clean the engine area and redo the sound insulation.
I will also change the engine mounts and inspect the PYI dripless.
I may overhaul the engine (Westerbeke W33 with about 3200 hours).
There is nothing specifically wrong with the engine, it starts and runs
well.
I will do the obvious, compression test, valve adjust, look for leaks,
replace hoses etc.

Looking for anyone on the list who has pulled the engine on this particular
model.
The aft cabin has a V-Drive and a fairly unique engine arrangement.
I would be interested in any advice or tips in doing this.

​Thanks in advance
​
-- 
Don Marlin
​SV Indulgence C 40​
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Stus-List Looking at a CC 40-2 AC (Aft Cabin)

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

Was looking to see if anyone in the list had any experience (good or
bad) with this particular boat model.

The engine access looks like it is a bit of a challenge. Similar to LF38.
The stairs into the cabin are fairly steep and it is a long way down.

Anyhow, any feedback is appreciated.

-- 
Don Marlin

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