Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

I’ve had success with 1” wooden dowel cut to needed length which allows
positioning the dowel to push up on the alternator to the desired position.
Length depend ms on how you can position the dowel. Has worked well for me.
Same for raw water pump.

Lisle

On Sun, May 14, 2023 at 4:09 PM Josh via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Its called a belt jack.
>
> https://a.co/d/4EN0JIj
>
> I originally got mine from my Dad.  Never knew where he got it.  I assume
> some auto parts store.  After tightening the belt on my Yanmar I proceeded
> to test start the the engine.  An unusual and loud metallic sound ensued,
> upon which I immediately realized I had forgotten to remove the jack.
> Ugh!  Well it broke the shoe off of one side of the jack and I was left
> searching for a replacement.  Why google searches for "v-belt tension tool"
> don't work I have no idea.  Google "belt jack" and it immediately comes up.
>
> I did repurchase and also found a welder friend to reattach the broken
> shoe.  Now I have 2.  Swing by Solomons, MD and we can arrange for
> something.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> May 14, 2023 15:54:00 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List :
>
> Hello,
>
> A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive)
> tool that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt.
>
> The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the
> alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third
> to tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the
> procedure to be completed single-handedly.
>
> I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some
> similar outlet.
>
> I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end,
> I used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be
> able to do it on my own.
>
> Could someone point me to this implement?
>
> Thanks
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 c270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Thank you Dean and Doug!!

Allen Hutton replied to my email inquiry. $100 for the nut, $35 for
shipping, 3-4 weeks.

Thanks again,

Lisle

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 12:49 AM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Her’s their web address: http://www.huttonwinches.com/products/spares
>
> Dean
> BarraWind
> C 34
> Halifax, Nova Scotia
>
> On Sep 21, 2021, at 1:02 AM, Doug via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> There is an outfit in Australia that has spare parts for barient and
> Barlow winches. The name escapes me..
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club
> Port Orchard, WA
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
> Date: 9/20/21 17:28 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD" 
> Subject: Stus-List In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining
> nut
>
> Any chance anyone knows of somewhere I might be able to find a Barient 17
> st winch retaining nut, the one on the top of the winch. I lost mine today
> unfortunately when I pulled on the jib sheet and the darn thing was loose
> and fell overboard. Been scouring the internet with not much luck so
> thought I would check with the list.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Lisle
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List In search of Barient 17 self tailing winch retaining nut

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Any chance anyone knows of somewhere I might be able to find a Barient 17
st winch retaining nut, the one on the top of the winch. I lost mine today
unfortunately when I pulled on the jib sheet and the darn thing was loose
and fell overboard. Been scouring the internet with not much luck so
thought I would check with the list.

Thanks,

Lisle
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Balsa core history

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

FWIW, this prompted me to take a look at the book "Heart of Glass:
Fiberglass boats and the men who made them": and some info on Balsa is on
p122,

"Balsa Core. The Baltek Corporation was the exclusive supplier to powerboat
builders of balsa planks for stiffening hull sides and bottoms. When balsa
was originally supplied in lengths with the grain running longitudinally,
Pearson had problems with water migrating away from the point of entry at
the deck hardware fasteners, causing delamination. Everett Perason recalls
that "We were using pieces 3 feet long by 1/2 inch thick by 2 inches wide.
We had some leaks at the fittings, which didn't make any sense. So I
started stacking this stuff up and cutting it on the bandsaw and making
end-grain balsa. I was doing that on Constitution Street when Alex Lippay
and Bob Levine came in from Baltek. They said "What are you doing". I sadi
"I got to turn this stuff the other way to stop the water from spreading.
They said "Jeez, this is what we should be doing." I said "You're right".
That's how Contourkore started. They took the end-grain idea and made
samples that we evaluated. They came up with a method of putting scrim on
it and so forth. In hindsight, I should have applied for a patent. I think
we were probably one of the first to use Contourkore, as early as 1963 in a
race boat hull. THe new product was brought to market in 1963 and 1964,
with Pearson as one of the its first few users and most vocal supporters.
Indeed, in 1981, Pearson sank a 2-square-foot basl cored panel in
Narragansett Bay, attached by change to his dock. After three years he
removed the panel from the water and had it analyzed. The results? No water
penetrated the balso more than 4 mils."

Best,

Lisle

On Thu, Sep 16, 2021 at 4:23 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> "Balsa core" gets some bad press and I was interested in how it came into
> boating, especially C
>
> After some research, I learned:
> Making things with a core was first used by Egyptians three thousand years
> ago.  Veneers of precious wood over a core of cheaper wood extended the use
> of precious materials.  The practice was lost in the middle ages and
> re-imagined in the 1700's when furniture makers wanted to make things from
> scarce woods.
>
> Later in the 1920's and 30's, balsa core was being harvested in Equador
> by a French company trying to market it in France in the 20's and 30's.
> The Jewish French owners fled the Nazi takeover and emigrated to the US.
> Their balsa was later used by DeHaviland in England to build the famous
> Mosquito two engine bombers in 1941.  Dehavilland built over 7700 of these
> 400+ mph planes using two Spitfire engines each.   They used a plywood
> vaneer over an endgrain balsa core.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTsnMKzmdWs=613s
>
> The balsa industry lost a market after WWII but in the 70's, they
> convinced fiberglass boat builders to use balsa core and Hatteras
> sportfishing yachts were their first big client.  Almost all boat builders
> eventually started using balsa soon after, including C, Pearson, Santana,
> Cape Dory, Columbia, Catalina, Hunter, Olsen, Saber, Schock, J-Boats,
> Beneteau, Jeanneau, as well as all the power boat builders, too.
> https://www.company-histories.com/Baltek-Corporation-Company-History.html
>
> Core comparisons:
>
> https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/inner-layer-core-materials-sailboat-construction/
>
> I personally think C did an industry leading job to perfect the process
> using fiberglass and balsa core to build a lightweight and strong
> structure, but that is better covered by John Kelly Cuthbertson or others
> with more personal knowledge.
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Boric Acid Powder

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

That made me laugh out loud, thanks Joe.



Lisle

On Mon, Aug 30, 2021 at 1:09 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I once threw the same spider overboard 4 times. He could stay on the
> surface and would make his way back to the dinghy, climb in, and follow the
> painter back aboard. I finally decided he could stay if he was that
> determined to go sailing!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fwd: Thru-hull removal

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Maybe an option?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lx_Zu9sW_Qk

Lisle


On Sun, Apr 11, 2021 at 8:53 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hello everyone,
> I am in the process of changing the seacocks and thru-hulls on my new to
> me C
>
> Everything was seized up and I opted to grind the mushrooms out and hammer
> the thru-hulls from the outside. Everything went great until the last one
> (of course)... It is a bit different than the other two i've removed and it
> doesn't move at all!.
>
> Any suggestions on how to remove it? Photos form the inside and outside:
> https://dalu-my.sharepoint.com/:u:/g/personal/jl844105_dal_ca/EY0hyGnRu9BEpEK_sZgN1GgBvFIfKUvmMtXt7ET_ewNuZg?e=jStgny
>
> Cheers!
> Juliano
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Reuse Through-Hull or Cut New?

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Fwiw, I replaced 2 thru hulls start of last season and in one installed a
DST 800 and used 3m 4200 fast cure and it seems to have worked well.

I had a question about the they thru hull and found the customer support at
Gemeco to be very good, they might be able to comment on the they hull
placement. My guess is if aft the water flow may not be best for speed?

https://www.gemeco.com/transducer-detail.php?transducer=DST800

Best regards,

Lisle

On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 2:38 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I appeal to your collective wisdom here.  Over the offseason I acquired a
> new instrument system for Grenadine, including a new DST transducer which
> goes through the hull.  I’m debating whether to reuse an existing
> through-hull hole (for the old speed or depth sensor), or cut a new one.
> The manufacturer of my new DST transducer recommends locating it forward of
> the keel, whereas my current transducer through-hulls are aft of the keel.
> On the other hand I’d like to not cut new holes through my hull if not
> absolutely necessary.  What say you?  Also, what kind of sealant do y’all
> recommend for bedding a through-hull?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Now stink boaters anonymous

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

I’m doubly guilty. First boat is a key west 20.3 and second is Caliber 28.
I think it counts that I strongly considered a couple C and Stu and the
list has graciously tolerated my inclusion and questions for a few years.

Lisle

Geneva, NY

On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 8:38 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Me too. My second boat is a Herreshoff 12 1/2. Oh wait, that’s a sailboat.
> But I do have a Cape Dory 14, oh wait...
> I guess I *am* totally without sin...in that regard, anyway.
> 
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> 
> Newport, RI
> 
>
> USA
> 
>  02840
> 
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 19, 2021, at 08:26, John Conklin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Guilty of owning a 21 Ft Console console. I can Be Beaufort NC for lunch
> in 35-40  Min VS close to 4 Hrs on Halcyon
> Runs great ! :)
>
> John Conklin
>
> On Mar 18, 2021, at 11:30 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have not started my Boston Whaler since December. Can I get a 3 month
> coin or something?
>
> Joe
>
> *From:* Matthew via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 11:01 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Matthew 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Now stink boaters anonymous
>
> Hi, Pete.  My name’s Matt, and I own a Pursuit 18 center console
> outboard.  But it’s for the kids, I swear.
>
> *From:* pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 5:03 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* pete.shelqu...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 40
>
> I feel safe now.
>
> Hello, my name is Pete,  and I am a Boston Whaler owner.
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Messages going to spam

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Same for me.

Lisle

On Fri, Mar 19, 2021 at 9:12 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In the last couple days, list messages have started ending up in my spam
> folder.  I use gmail.
>
> Anyone else using gmail having this issue?
>
> I'm re-creating my filter(s) to send them to my C list folder.
> Hopefully this will resolve the issue for me but I'm concerned what gmail
> thinks the list emails are spam.
>
> I have also clicked the "Report Not Spam" link in gmail.
>
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List input on thru-hull issue

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Thanks gentlemen, very helpful replies. Will keep you posted as this
progresses.

Best,

Lisle

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 8:36 PM  wrote:

> Lisle –
>
> If I understand your description correctly, yes it would be good to have
> at least the depth closer to horizontal.  Mostly for accurate readings and
> area coverage.  How you achieve that can be a long explanation but would be
> a combination of building up material (West System or other) on the inside
> and outside of the hull to make the two surfaces parallel.
>
>
>
> Airmar makes almost all transducers for instrument manufacturers.   I used
> all the same thru hulls when replacing my old datamarine.  FWIW; I have
> mostly Garmin now, but also B, on a N2K network.   Those two play very
> well together and each have their +/- for data display, usability and
> configurability.   I believe Garmin anemometer is the best in the
> business.  My personal experience is Raymarine doesn’t play well with
> others.   Spend time running different displays at your local boat show to
> get a feel how they operate
>
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Stus-List input on thru-hull issue

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I have been a lurker on the list for 3 years now, was seriously considering
a C 30 in 2017 but ended up buying a 1986  Caliber 28 in August, 2018.

Despite not landing on a C, I continue to actively follow the posts on
the listserv as I have found them most useful and I don't do Facebook, and
I would appreciate, although not being a C owner, if folks on the list
have thoughts they would be interested in sharing on the issue below.

The project I'm doing is replacing old and slightly leaking knot meter and
depth sounder. There was a copious amount of LifeCalk applied around the
fittings inside the boat and at launch last spring there was a very very
small leak that was stopped for the season with yet more application of
LIfeCalk.

The boat has 2 thru hulls forward of the keel and the knot meter hole size
is 2-1/8" as it is an old SR Mariner knot meter with a flanged fitting. The
depth sounder is an old DataMarine Corinthian II model with a 2" Thru Hull
hole, no flange.

The issue I'm facing is that after I removed the Thru Hull fittings, it
appears that the hole for the knot meter is flanged at about a 45' angle
and the SR Mariner Thru Hull fitting is flanged at 30" so there is a bit of
wiggle room so to speak and it's not as flush as I would think it should
be. It's the original unit as far as I know so it apparently was fine for
many years.

My question is - is there a way I can try and "build up" the area around
the flange so that the fitting fits more closely, or is this sort of
clearance OK to leave as is with the assumption that the sealant is capable
of filling this void without significant concern of failing assuming it's
applied properly.

Also, if anyone has thoughts on what best NMEA 2000 package to put in for
depth, speed, and wind, I would be interested in thoughts there as well.
I'm looking at Garmin and B thus far. The old Stowe anemometer doesn't
work so I'm planning on upgrading the entire system.

Thank you,

Lisle
___

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Stus-List Question for 29mk ii owners

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hello all, last summer I was looking seriously at a 30mk ii but it didn’t
work out and I benefitted enormously with talking to a few owners on the
list.

I’m now looking at a 29 mk ii and was wondering if anyone who has
experience with this model would have a few minutes to chat by phone about
their experience with the boat? If so let me know back channel at
lisle.king...@gmail.com

Thanks,

Lisle
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Pfd

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

You need to use the coupon code, I did and it worked, thanks Joel!!

Lisle
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List c 30 3 questions

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

>
> Hi Maurice,
>
> You and I are in the (almost) same boat. :)
>
> I'm considering a 1987 C mkii and posted some recent questions (in
> past 2 months) on it here and the listmates have been exceedingly helpful
> as I think through the options.
>
> The one I'm looking at is in good shape except the rudder has considerable
> water intrusion. I got a quote for 2-2.5k to recore and glass the rudder
> locally or 5k for South Shore to make a new one in 4-5 weeks.
>
> Which one are you considering?
>

When I visited the boat with my 6 year old son, we laid together in the
forward berth. I could see personally sleeping with a small child up front
but I didn't think it would work with 2 adults. The aft berth is definitely
more roomy and would fit 2 adults snugly I think and several members
commented on this feature relative to comparable boats.

FWIW, in talking with the surveyor and I mentioned that eventually I'd be
interested in taking it south to the bahamas etc  (we can dream, right?),
he said without hesitation that it would be capable of making that trip.
The sail maker I spoke with wasn't as enthusiastic about it and
characterized it more as a coastal cruiser/racer.


> Best,
>
> Lisle
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2017 11:27:53 -0400
> From: mp...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C 30 MKII
> Message-ID: <15f49d8eb7d-c0f-f...@webjas-vaa086.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Greetings,
>
> New to the list and hoping to be a new owner for a C 30 MKii 1988. It is
> a nicely appointed sailboat in great shape for its age and no visible, walk
> away concerns.  I was hoping for comments from anyone with experience and
> insights to offer, peeves, joys etc.  that would be super appreciated.
>
> 3 quick questions though:
>
> 1) knowing the boat, what would be a definite concern that you would look
> at, stuff that has failed or gives grief?
> 2) The front berth dimension is difficult to assess but it is sufficient
> for a couple of average size, height?
> 3) Would you do a jump to the Caribbean from the ICW on such a boat?
>
> Such a nice cruiser/racer though!
>
> Thank you for any information you can share!
>
> Maurice Poulin
>
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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List survey says...

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I've gotten the survey back on the 1987 30MKii I'm considering.

Above average condition overall, the surveyor was impressed by the
condition overall.

The rudder has significant water intrusion despite previous repairs, there
are slight depressions in the hull on the aft supports due to boat being on
the hard for over a year (surveyor thinks these will come out when launched
but need to address it now by putting wider pads), and there appear to be
two leaks - one at the forward hatch and one possibly around the mast
(there was a bit of water on the cushion just forward of the galley). Boat
has recent (2015) new sails, 2 new ST winches, and a new mast track.

FMV estimate is ~18% below asking price.

Given this, any final words of wisdom for me as try to negotiate a final
deal?

Thanks in advance.




Lisle
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List opinion on cabin table

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

>
>
> Thanks, Dennis, I hadn't thought about the issue of sail load support.
>
> From what I can tell, it appears the Tartan 31 chainplates are attached to
> the bulkhead vs. the C 30mkii are attached to the hull. I have the Tartan
> 31 manual but I don't see that specified anywhere, but looking at pics
> online it looks like this is the case.
>



> I'll be mainly day sailing with the goal of doing some multi night coastal
> excursions on Lake Ontario eventually. Do you think this would make much of
> a difference in this setting?
>
> Both boats have a Yanmar diesel, with the C being 16 HP vs. 18 generally
> for the Tartans.
>
> I like the C 30 layout a lot with the only hesitation being the table in
> the middle.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Lisle
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2017 08:18:31 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List opinions about cabin table
> Everyone's criteria is different.  How folks use their boats is also a
> consideration.  Both boats look nice.  Both are quality built.
>
> I guess I'm strange but my starting point is always the rig and how the
> sailing load is supported.  Are the chain plates attached to a bulkhead or
> are the shroud loads carried directly down to the hull?
>
> Next I look at the propulsion system.
>
> Finally, I look at layout and amenities.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
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Stus-List opinions about cabin table

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the helpful replies on cabin table options. I've pretty much
narrowed my boat choices down to either a C 30MKii or a Tartan 31 at this
point. The Tartan's interior appears more open with the folding table
mounted on the bulkhead vs. the fixed table on the C I will mainly be
day-sailing and hanging out on the dock with a few overnights so I'm
thinking the more open cabin might work better with the kids. comparison
pics link below.



https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5w1TuAY4gTRam1qNlBuWExhSW8



Thanks,


Lisle
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Stus-List opinions on cabin table

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm interested in opinions about having a fixed table in the middle of the
cabin vs. a table that folds down and out of the way when not in use. As I
obsess over boat features this is emerging as an important consideration.
I'll have 2 kids on board sometimes (ages 6 and 4) and I'm thinking having
the open space might be really nice vs. having the table in the way all the
time. Thanks in advance for any opinions on this issue.

Best regards,

Lisle
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Stus-List update on 1987 c mkii

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Thanks so much for everyone's replies about the C mkii I'm considering.
it's really helpful!!

I went and took a second look at her today. This time the broker shared a
survey done in 2014 by the 3rd owner which he didn't mention during my
first visit.   This C 30 mkii is #21 built in 1987.

Overall the boat was rated as "above average" condition when surveyed on
the hard in 2014. The only sign of high moisture readings was in the cover
of the hatches in cockpit and the surveyor confirmed what the collective
list said about the keel - just cosmetic joint separation, not structural,
"minor cracking in the fairing compound". I could hear some definite
"crackling" sound when walking on the port side deck, but not near the mast
or upper deck or anywhere else on the deck.

Apparently the rudder had an 18" crack and high moisture ratings and the
previous owner claims it was fixed. Estimated fair market value was 34k at
the time.

other main recommendation was to add a power bilge blower and to inspect
chain plates after removing fastened panels. Wondering how much of a PITA
this would be?

Since 2014, the owner has new main and headsail (2015) and some other
updates mentioned in the survey (replacing waste hose that was apparently
rated for fuel but not waste, noting a distinct "odor" from the waste
system during the survey).

Speaking of odors, the boat smelled very badly in the cabin and it appears
to be due to nasty yellowish/greenish standing water about 6"+ in the
bilge.

The boat has been on the hard all year due in part to the elevated water
levels on Lake Ontario but still has standing water in the bilge. Thoughts
on if this is a red flag?

It seems every boat I've looked at that is 25+ years old has some sort of
"old boat smell." Need to fix that before the wife and kids take a look. :)
Is "old boat smell" curable?

I've lined up a good surveyor and plan to run the survey by him to discuss
next steps. Perhaps a "partial" survey to address the findings from the
previous one, or just do a complete new one? I'd welcome opinions on this
point.

Thanks again,

Lisle
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Stus-List hull #

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Chad Osmond 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2017 11:17:53 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain
> > Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of
> it's era made and it has a universal diesel.
>
> Check the hull number, it will be on the transom, and in the aft cabin
> beside the stove.
> The last few digits show the hull number, it'll be between 140?-175.
>
>
> Hull # is ZCC30163F990, so looks like it's #163 of 175.

Thanks,

Lisle
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Stus-List Awlgrip

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the awlgrip replies. Helps a lot.

Lisle
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Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has been
painted with awlgrip.

http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA

>From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but
then can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for
related posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a
really bad idea to have this paint on the hull?

Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's
era made and it has a universal diesel.

Thanks,

Lisle
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Stus-List Was considering C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the replies, very helpful as I think (obsess) over the boat
options. 

I'm torn between the Pearson 27 and the C 30. As noted, the 30 is a much
bigger boat and maybe not the best choice for a beginnner?

My goal/plan is to learn her over the next 5-8 years on Lake Ontario and
Seneca lake, and then consider taking her down for longer trips down the
east coast cruising once the kids get older (currently 6 and 4). I'm
thinking the C would clearly better meet that long term fantasy.

I could start with the 27 then if it works out could move up in 5-8 years
but wonder if it would be better to grow into a boat rather than grow out
of one.

Thanks again for your replies.

Lisle
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Stus-List was considering C 25, now Pearson 27 or C 30

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Update: I looked at the C and although it appeared to be a basically
solid boat, it feels a bit too small for a family of 4 and the headroom was
a bit low. I'm hearing a lot of "3-foot-itis" stories from sellers I'm
speaking with. So the search goes on. I've found an interesting 1987
Pearson 27 that looks promising, here is the link:

https://rochester.craigslist.org/bod/d/1987-pearson-27-2-sailboat/6281575540.html

The one issue with the Pearson is that apparently it got struck by another
boat on the port bow side that required some repair.

Also, I'm going to see a 1987 C 30 later today that looks promising. Link
here:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1987/C%26C-30-3079275/Rochester/NY/United-States#.Wa-z9MiGNPY

Can someone with a C 30' tell me how large the v-birth actually is and
share any experience with the idea of a beginner sailor staring with a boat
like this?

thanks,

Lisle
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Stus-List considering C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

thanks a lot for the additional input, really helpful. Found a surveyor so
after I get a tour of the boat on Friday, I'll keep the list posted and
probably schedule the survey.

Sincerely,

Lisle Kingery
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Stus-List considering C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

thanks, Andy. My friend the internet tells me these are good boats. I
looked at a Hunter last week and my friend tells me to watch out for those.
:)

Thanks, Fred - I think you'll be right, my long term fantasy is to buy a
worthy cruiser but I need to learn to sail first. I'll be restricted to
Seneca Lake for the first few years which I think will be a great place to
learn. Thanks very much for your replies.

Best,

Lisle
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Stus-List considering 1981 C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi, still figuring out how to use/reply on the list so please bear with
me

here is the add for the C 25 I'm considering:

https://fingerlakes.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-25/6239385891.html

I went to take a quick look at it today and other than some slight star
cracking on the deck around a few stanchions, the deck looks pretty good.
I'll go over it carefully to check for soft spots.

I'm buying a boat to learn to sail, I'm a little concerned 27 would be a
bit long for me, 25 looks about right. I have experience with 21 foot power
boat.

Thanks,

Lisle
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Stus-List considering purchasing a 1981 C 25

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm considering purchasing a 1981 C 25, looking at it this Friday. Was
curious if anyone has recommendations about particular things to watch out
for on this year/make of C?

Thank you!

Lisle
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