Stus-List Vineyard Race

[Rich via CnC-List]

There is less than 3 weeks till the Vineyard Race Labor Day weekend. With over 
80 entries I don’t see many C’s. Only a 33,a 34R, a 38, a 40 and me. Where is 
everyone?  So I propose a challenge. Let’s get as many C’s entered so we all 
brag how good we are. I’ve been in the Off Soundings races a few years now and 
2 years ago we had 5 35’s in our division. It was awesome. Would love to see 
you all out there. The deadline to enter and pay is this Friday to avoid late 
entry fees. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
> R JMS C 35-3
> Phone 631-331-3140
> r...@spitzenbergercpa.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2

[Rich via CnC-List]

I have a C 35-3 and moved my traveler aft off the doghouse to behind the 
companionway. My sailmaker made a strop made of amsteel. Super strong. I simply 
tied a thin line from end of boom to strop to keep it from sliding forward. 
Works great. 

Sent from my iPhone
Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
R JMS
r...@spitzenbergercpa.com


> On Sep 23, 2019, at 10:21 PM,   
> wrote:
> 
> Charlie,
>  
> That is an interesting thought!  How do you keep yours from slipping down the 
> boom?  How wide would you say the webbing is?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Jim
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 23, 2019 9:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2
>  
> Why not consider a strong webbing type strap with sewn loops on each 
> end?--can be very strong, cheap and indestructible. I have been using the 
> same one on Water Phantom for 20+ years.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: firewater 
> Sent: Mon, Sep 23, 2019 9:30 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Boom Bail for 30-2
> 
> Hi all,
>  
> We were headed out for the last race of the season Saturday and as we loaded 
> up the main for the first time, the fitting on the boom that  attaches to the 
> main sheet snapped off our 30-2.  This was a single eye attached to a plate 
> riveted to the inside of the boom.  I suspect this probably just weakened 
> over time and happened to give out at the weld.   It was quite windy, but at 
> that point the stresses on the mainsheet weren’t out of the ordinary since we 
> were just motoring out of the harbor.  No other damage to the boat and no 
> harm to the crew as a result of this, so it could have been much worse.
>  
> Now the issue is how to find a replacement.  Anyone have an idea if these are 
> available off the shelf or have another idea for replacement?  RigRite does 
> not recognize it.  I have also contacted Offshore Spars, who I believe made 
> the rig originally and helped me out with a boom vang bracket last year. 
> RigRite has one that is similar size but with a different hole pattern that I 
> probably could make work, but still hoping for a true replacement if I can 
> get one.  Thanks for your help!
>  
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Spinnaker for C 35 Mk I

[Rich via CnC-List]

I have a couple of very good spinnakers available from my 35-3. Contact me if 
interested. 

Sent from my iPhone
Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
Phone 631-331-3140
r...@spitzenbergercpa.com


> On Sep 3, 2019, at 10:24 AM, Glen Eddie  wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone,
>  
> The 47 year old delivery spinnaker I bought several years ago (I believe from 
> Dennis) finally powdered in an epic explosion last Wednesday.  There is not 
> enough sail tape in the world to fix it. 
>  
> Does anyone have a used spinnaker for a C 35 Mk I that they want to sell.  
> My crew is not ready (nor is my wife) for a new spinnaker purchase. 
>  
> Happy to discuss offline.  Thanks.
>  
> Glen Eddie
> Tel:  416-777-5357
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
> ged...@torkinmanes.com
> VCard
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7 
> torkinmanes.com
> An international member of Ally Law
> 
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
> message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. 
> Thank you.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C spinnakers for sale

[Rich via CnC-List]

I have a great 2014 North Sails S2 Airmax 600 all purpose spinnaker that needs 
a new home. I will also throw in an old spinnaker that came with the boat that 
is a great heavy air chute. It probably came with the boat in 1988 but never 
used. It was still crisp when I got my boat in 2011. Anyway, we converted to 
asym 2 years ago so have no more use for them. 2 great sails. You won’t be 
disappointed. Make an offer!

Sent from my iPhone
Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
R JMS
C 35-3
Phone 631-331-3140
r...@spitzenbergercpa.com



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 161, Issue 116

[Rich via CnC-List]

Will do. I thought it was in response to prior post with same reference. 

Sent from my iPhone
Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
Phone 631-331-3140
r...@spitzenbergercpa.com


> On Jun 30, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock
>  Reservation? (Don Kern)
> 
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 161, Issue 116

[Rich via CnC-List]

This is my first post on this forum but have been monitoring aka stalking you 
guys for years. Purchased my C 35 MKIII in 2011. 

We just returned from BIRW yesterday after docking at the New Harbor Boat Basin 
(formerly Block Island Boat Basin). All docks updated and new staff friendly 
and helpful. Price actually lowered 10% from last year. Docking nicely laid 
out. Panes next door has boats jammed in when busy. The Basin features The Oar 
which you have to visit. Awesome mudslides, sushi and food in general and nice 
vibe. A few weeks ago for Off Soundings spring series we docked boat same place 
but crew all got rooms at Champlins next door. Nice family friendly resort with 
pool. A far cry from back in the late 70s/early 80s when they used to host BIRW 
and raft boats 8-10 deep at the dock. Total chaos. Racing in general had much 
higher participation and race week had over 400 entries. 

Sent from my iPhone
Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
R JMS
41782
C 35MKIII


> On Jun 30, 2019, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock
>  Reservation? (Don Kern)
> 
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Unfortunate you had problems with Raymarine support.

RK


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 9, 2015, at 09:30, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Rich –
The SPX-30.  Ray tech support has it - Not repairable, but is replaceable.   
It’s not worth going into detail on dealing with tech support to get to this 
conclusion, but it wasn’t great.  However, congratulations on your whack of 
systems with few problems.
 
I don’t have any hydraulics – AP ram or other, so it doesn’t apply to me and I 
didn’t intend to infer it would work with all systems, if that’s your point.  
Because it doesn’t apply doesn’t mean it should be discounted either.  It is 
clever engineering.  
 
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations
 
Pete:
 
Out of curiosity, what “died” in your Raymarine system? I have owned and 
installed a whack of these systems and have had very few problems over the 
years. 
 
Also, unless I’m suffering more than usual today, the Garmin Shadow Drive will 
only work when installed in the line from a helm pump in a fully hydraulic 
steering system. It will not work on a cable driven system such as that found 
in most C sail boats. Nice idea, but….
 
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!




 
On Oct 9, 2015, at 06:56, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
Cruising World  has a article summarizing different autopilot manufacturers in 
the Oct issue.  Not a lot of detail, but another source of input.
 
I installed Raymarine SPX-30 in ’08 and it died on me this summer.  I’ll 
replace with Garmin over the winter.   Next summer I’ll be able to give a more 
thorough review of difference, but the Shadow Drive function in Garmin is very 
clever.
 
#friendsdon’tletfriendsbuyraymarine
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Edd Schillay <e...@schillay.com <mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2015 5:56 pm
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

Listers, 
 
My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 
 
The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 
 

All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
 








 



 
___
 
Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Pete:

Out of curiosity, what “died” in your Raymarine system? I have owned and 
installed a whack of these systems and have had very few problems over the 
years. 

Also, unless I’m suffering more than usual today, the Garmin Shadow Drive will 
only work when installed in the line from a helm pump in a fully hydraulic 
steering system. It will not work on a cable driven system such as that found 
in most C sail boats. Nice idea, but….

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 9, 2015, at 06:56, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
wrote:

Cruising World  has a article summarizing different autopilot manufacturers in 
the Oct issue.  Not a lot of detail, but another source of input.
 
I installed Raymarine SPX-30 in ’08 and it died on me this summer.  I’ll 
replace with Garmin over the winter.   Next summer I’ll be able to give a more 
thorough review of difference, but the Shadow Drive function in Garmin is very 
clever.
 
#friendsdon’tletfriendsbuyraymarine
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List >
To: C List >
Cc: Edd Schillay >
Sent: Thu, Oct 8, 2015 5:56 pm
Subject: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

Listers, 
 
My wife is considering buying me an autopilot system for my 50th (YIKES!) 
birthday next year to replace our failing Robertson unit. She saw the video 
from the 2015 Northeast Rendezvous of Nader sitting in his cockpit eating lunch 
while the boat drove itself to Clinton and said “Oh you gotta have that!” 
 
The Octopus hydraulic drive is already installed and I’m somewhat partial to 
the Raymarine EV-200 system (and Fred Street has pretty good pricing), but 
wanted to see if anyone else has recommendations on units I should look at. 
 

All the best,
 
Edd
 
 
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
 








 


 
___
 
Email
address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Bob! You rascal!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 6, 2015, at 09:03, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

I agree.I just bought this one:

http://sunnybrookyachts.com/core/listing/pl_boat_detail.jsp?=Feet=2761870=en=broker&=syb&=syb;
 


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-06 12:45 PM, jim schwartz via CnC-List wrote:
> buy a new boat!  a c owner shouldn't fool around with such small items.
> jim
> sea yea!
> 38 landfall
> 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Angle grinder. Or call Phil Wash.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 5, 2015, at 17:24, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt on my 
bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should be able to 
come apart should it need to.

I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, a product 
is not the answer.   I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool' that can 
grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping it further and giving 
my right hand a palm blister.

I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt and the SS 
tubing but it is going to be a challenge.

The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting a wrench 
on it with any force doesn't work either.  I can't turn the bolt and I can't 
turn the nut.  I could simply ignore the problem for now but someday I have to 
get this opened so I might as well not ignore the problem now.

Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List bilge pump

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I suggest checking out this website for some realistic information about bilge 
pumps and their effectiveness:

http://www.safety-marine.co.uk/spages/how-to-specify-the-right-bilge-pump-for-your-vessel.htm

There are many other sites with similar information.

It bears out my thought that the best bilge pump is a frightened man with a 
bucket.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless and pumpless.





Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Oct 4, 2015, at 17:34, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

You just have to find one that fits.  You can set up a second, maybe bigger, 
pump in a higher location for emergencies or a failure of the primary.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 4, 2015 8:14 PM, "Harald Braun via CnC-List" > wrote:
Hi, my wife and I are sailing on a 35ft C MK3 and want to replace our bilge 
pump from a rule 500 to a rule 1500, unfortunately the new pump doesn’t fit 
right. Has anybody ever enlarged their bilge pump? Any help would be 
appreciated.
 
Cheers
Harald
 
www.davenportcatering.com 
519-746-0152 
519-574-1058  (cell)
25 Years of Great Food Service!
 
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Polars

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Geezly big mean white bears.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 28, 2015, at 21:41, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

Maybe.  What are Polars?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
> Message-ID:
>   

Re: Stus-List Bow Thrusters

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

You weakening Edd? Take the money and buy beer!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 27, 2015, at 06:10, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

Was at the Norwalk Boat Show yesterday and there was a bow thruster company 
there which had a product that looked interesting. It was a bow thruster "pod" 
that mounts under the hull (as opposed to a tunnel thruster that goes through 
the hull). 

Easier install, can run 5 minutes nonstop without overheating, wireless 
control, etc. 

Is anyone using one of these types? Any disadvantages? I guess my biggest 
concern is the drag factor -- will it cost me a half knot or more? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 30 main halyard size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

 There’s no reason not to splice a fancy new low-stretch rope halyard to an 
easy-to-handle rope tail that will not slip in the rope clutch.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 19, 2015, at 12:08, Scott via CnC-List  wrote:

This fall one of my projects will be to replace worn out sheaves at the base of 
the mast ,
Pull the upper pulley at the masthead and machine in a bronze bushing. It still 
has wire to rope halyard and am either going to replace with a new one or 
change out to all rope. My question is what size has anyone used on a c 30 
mki (1972). I know all rope is the go to choice nowadays but I like the feel of 
the larger diameter rope end of the wire to rope. Thanks in advance for any 
insight or experience , Scott


Sent from my iPad
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bronze Steering Quadrant

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Good to hear. See you soon.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 19, 2015, at 20:28, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi Rich,

I'll check Salerosa's r/stock diameter tomorrow and let you know.

Back in Nanaimo after our too long road trip.

Cheers, Russ

At 05:50 PM 19/09/2015, you wrote:
> During the fall cleanup at work, we have unearthed a brand new 10” radius 
> bronze steering quadrant machined with keyway to fit a 2 ½” rudder post. 
> It is similar in appearance to that shown 
> athttp://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm 
> . It is not an Edson. It 
> had “C 41” written in felt marker on it and I presume someone ordered 
> it some time ago and failed to pick it up. If it’s of any use to someone, 
> any offer over $200 plus shipping will get it. A bit of work with a saw would 
> turn it into a very nice steering arm for a below decks autopilot ram.
> 
> Pictures available upon request
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Still Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Bronze Steering Quadrant

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

During the fall cleanup at work, we have unearthed a brand new 10” radius 
bronze steering quadrant machined with keyway to fit a 2 ½” rudder post. It is 
similar in appearance to that shown at 
http://www.edsonmarine.com/ecatalogs/sail/00024.htm. It is not an Edson. It had 
“C 41” written in felt marker on it and I presume someone ordered it some 
time ago and failed to pick it up. If it’s of any use to someone, any offer 
over $200 plus shipping will get it. A bit of work with a saw would turn it 
into a very nice steering arm for a below decks autopilot ram.

Pictures available upon request

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Still Boatless!









Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I simply didn’t understand your point.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 6, 2015, at 14:06, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Rich,

Are you suggesting that if a 30 year old boat hasn't blistered yet, that it is 
likely to?  My thoughts/statements were twofold, assess exactly what Danny 
meant by needing a bottom job and advise that if multiple layers of bottom 
paint is the only concern that he could probably get away with 
sand/feather/paint.  It doesn't sound like he knows exactly what type of bottom 
is there right now but whatever it is it certainly seems to be working.

Josh

On Sep 6, 2015 4:39 PM, "Knowles Rich via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much 
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier 
coating.

Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will likely be 
with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and bottom 
rework, I suggest it’s well worth doing it properly, even if you have to wait a 
year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can tell you that my 
recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good annual spring 
cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There were a few 
scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling and touching 
up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make sense if money were 
not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint job is a great way to 
go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if done properly.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
<http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com>


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List end of my search - painting topsides

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much 
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier 
coating.

Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will likely be 
with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a topsides and bottom 
rework, I suggest it’s well worth doing it properly, even if you have to wait a 
year to get it done. Cosmetics can wait for money. I can tell you that my 
recent LF 38 was Awlgripped in 1992 and still, with a good annual spring 
cleanup and polish, the flag blue hull looks excellent. There were a few 
scrapes and dings over the years that I looked after by filling and touching 
up. A new paint job would be terrific, but would only make sense if money were 
not a consideration. All this to say that a good paint job is a great way to 
go. A new gel coat job would be very expensive if done properly.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Sep 6, 2015, at 10:52, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote:

Wait for blistering to soda or ice blast and new barrier coat.



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I’d want a second opinion on the degree of water intrusion. Those boats were 
very well built and core wetness can be easily misread and misreported. I 
suggest most 1980’s Landfalls and other cored boats have some areas of less 
than perfect lamination and core wetness but soldier on just fine, thank you.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless ex Landfall 38 owner.





On Aug 31, 2015, at 10:20, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote:

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-Landfall-38-2756734/Portsmouth/VA/United-States#.VeSK4YeFN9M
 

 
I have no clue if this is a good deal or $19,000 too much. I am guessing the 
owner got a big surprise at sale time.
 
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 



Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Anyone got a strobe at the masthead? 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 24, 2015, at 11:33, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Got it...we are blessed with an elevated level of power and sail expertise up 
here in Buzzards Bay.   

But like you said.   When I head West into LIS.   Whoa.   All light 
configuration bets are off and there is traffic of all sorts...

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 13:57:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: colt...@verizon.net mailto:colt...@verizon.net

Agreed, but for our night races there are never more than a few other boats not 
racing, which would be weekend warriors that I am sure don’t even know anything 
beyond red and green anyways. Very little commercial traffic, not like LIS. 
But you are correct, it is not kosher. I don’t think anyone would be running 
around with anchor lights where you sail, where it could easily be confused 
with barge traffic or whatever.  What really confuses things is when some guys 
light their steaming lights so they can see their teltales. 
 
Bill Coleman
CC 39 Erie, PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2015 1:27 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List ...Now lighting configurations...
 
I beg to differ.

Anchor light being used to light a windex is confusing and against the regs.   
Windex makes a light for that purpose.

A tricolor (with no deck lights) also lights the windex within the lighting 
regs.

What about boats not in your fleet?

Lights have meaning.

Forgive my push back on this but I have been part of too many situations where 
these seemingly innocent configurations have or could have had consequences.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2015 11:43:52 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: colt...@verizon.net mailto:colt...@verizon.net
We also use them on Night races to light the Windex. As long as you know 
everyone in the fleet is using them for that purpose it is not confusing.  I 
don’t know what other boats think, but there are usually not too many of them.
 
Bill Coleman
CC 39  Erie, PA
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2015 11:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
 
some people use the anchor light to light the windex.  You can buy a light that 
sits on top of the mast and shines up for that purpose.  I'm waiting for the 
solar powered version!
 
I find it hard to judge distance from boats use a masthead light.  Maybe that's 
just me.
 
Joel
 
On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:00 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Yup, I have seen all color combination to and for Bermuda as well...
Anchor lights with Tricolor...
Tricolor with deck level nav lights...
Steaming light with tri-color...
Nav lights with no steaming light (when under power)

Wrong. wrong Wrong.  

Very confusing when two fleets encounter each another at 2:00am (which happens 
surprisingly often).


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2015 22:27:57 -0700
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: russ...@telus.net mailto:russ...@telus.net


Exactly right Dennis.

And if motoring, burning three or four lamps is usually not a problem. Hence 
the desire to go LED for a masthead tri-light and the practicality of keeping 
lower lights as incandescent.

You might be astonished at the number of our American cousins who race around 
here at night burning every navigation lamp they can, masthead tri-colour, 
forward steaming, red, green and after steaming light. Very common on the 
overnight races.

Cheers, Russ


At 09:01 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
If you are motoring, you should not use the tricolor at the masthead.  The 
steaming light must be above the red/green nav lights.  Therefore you must use 
the deck or hull mounted nav lights when motoring.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 9:31 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Hi Kurt,
Not everyone is using a tri-colour at the masthead but it is practical in that, 
when sailing, there is nothing to obscure the lower lights and one lamp can 
draw a lot less power than three or four lamps. 
Note, if you are motoring then you still need the 

Re: Stus-List vang, CC 35 Mk II

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Ham and cheese works especially well…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 23, 2015, at 10:18, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Just use a snack block to your toe-rail when you ned a little down-wing vang.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

That’s so the deadheads and logs can see them coming.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Aug 22, 2015, at 22:27, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


Exactly right Dennis.

And if motoring, burning three or four lamps is usually not a problem. Hence 
the desire to go LED for a masthead tri-light and the practicality of keeping 
lower lights as incandescent.

You might be astonished at the number of our American cousins who race around 
here at night burning every navigation lamp they can, masthead tri-colour, 
forward steaming, red, green and after steaming light. Very common on the 
overnight races.

Cheers, Russ


At 09:01 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
 If you are motoring, you should not use the tricolor at the masthead.  The 
 steaming light must be above the red/green nav lights.  Therefore you must 
 use the deck or hull mounted nav lights when motoring.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 9:31 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Hi Kurt,
 
 Not everyone is using a tri-colour at the masthead but it is practical in 
 that, when sailing, there is nothing to obscure the lower lights and one lamp 
 can draw a lot less power than three or four lamps. 
 
 Note, if you are motoring then you still need the forward steaming light, 
 etc. 
 
 Rule 25 (around page 80) if you're interested. 
 
 http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdf
 
 
  http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/pdf/navrules/navrules.pdf
 Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â  Cheers, Russ
 Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Sweet 35-1
 
 
 At 04:50 PM 22/08/2015, you wrote:
 Is there a reason every one is using tri colors at the mast head? Is this in 
 addition to the regular side lights and stern light
 
 
 From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; 
 Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com 
 mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com; a...@airsensing.com 
 mailto:a...@airsensing.com; 
 Subject: Stus-List Was Wire Gauge, now Where can I get LED? 
 Sent: Sat, Aug 22, 2015 5:10:19 PM 
 
 Hello Alex, 
 
 I am replacing the cabin lights with this one from Marinebeam: 
 http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/ 
 http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-ba15s-15-led-bayonet-mini-tower/ 
 It’s just bright enough.  I tried the 18 and 2d 21 led models too.  
 They’re a bit much.. The 18 is googood as a reading light, the 21 is the 
 master blaster at the chart table. 
 
 My sternlight burned-out about a month ago.   I did not bother looking for 
 a replacement bulb at Marinebeam.. 
 
 I bought this for 16 bucks instead 
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1redirect=trueref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
  
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0BPZ1U?psc=1redirect=trueref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
  
 
 My original fixture’s lens s was all crazed and the housing was getting 
 brittle…   Now itÃ’s all l fresh and nnew.  It’s well done too 
 watertight ht with O-rings and extremely bright as it is a 12 led array. 
 
 For the tricolor I splurged a little.. 
 
 http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226
  
 http://www.westmarine.com/buy/misea--led-navigation-light-tri-color-anchor-lights--P013836226
  
 
 It‬™s a bit pricey but it’s the cat’s a$$.  Sup.  Super bright, 
 high quality machined metal housing, no interference with the VHF, automatic 
 anchor light, and a killer white light illuminating the Windex.  You get 
 what you pay for I guess..  
 
 I also have a remote control battery powered LED bar light for the engine 
 compartment.  It's about 20 bucks at Walmart. It's a peel and stick 
 installation and the light switch is also peel and stick.  No wiring. 
 Simple and perfect for the engine compartment, the remote switch is nice.  
 I am planning on buying more of those
 
 http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interestaction_type=titleitem_id=21827156placement_id=irs-106-t1strategy=PWVUBvisitor_idcategory=client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0customer_id_encconfig_id=106parent_item_id=16561412parent_anchor_item_id=16561412guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4bucket_id=irsbucket003beacon_version=1.0.1findingMethod=p13n
  
 http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-17528-GE-Under-Cabinet-Light-Fixture-12/21827156?action=product_interestaction_type=titleitem_id=21827156placement_id=irs-106-t1strategy=PWVUBvisitor_idcategory=client_guid=f3f3b215-f1f0-45be-becb-07836d61e0e0customer_id_encconfig_id=106parent_item_id=16561412parent_anchor_item_id=16561412guid=66bb66bb-45f0-42b5-9d01-a888a0a07fc4bucket_id=irsbucket003beacon_version=1.0.1findingMethod=p13n
  
 
 -Francois Rivard
 
 1990 34+ Take Five
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, 

Re: Stus-List Anchor roller

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Although I’m not a great fan of having any more components than absolutely 
needed in an anchor rode, a swivel installed between the chain and anchor can 
ensure the anchor can rotate and more easily traverse the roller than a 
shackle. Locktite is a good thing to use when installing a swivel.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!



On Aug 17, 2015, at 21:09, svpegasu...@gmail.com mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com 
via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin gets 
hing up on the bow roller fitting. 

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
Date: Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Cc: dwight veinot;
Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller

I hope you seized all the shackles

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. 
I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going 
nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. 
Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have 
had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very 
protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my 
anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. 

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved!

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

As I wrote some time back:

One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more 
multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there 
for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to 
lack of current flow across the individual connectors can lead to excessive 
resistance in the various circuits, false alarms and poor starting.

I suggest as a first approach to trouble shooting any engine related starting 
or alarm problems, finding the connector(s), often there are more than one, 
pulling them apart and reconnecting them several times to clean corrosion off 
the contacts and then testing to see if the problem is resolved. I am an 
advocate of removing the connectors completely and replacing them by cutting 
each conductor back to good, corrosion free wire and rejoining them using 
appropriately sized and crimped heat shrink butt connectors. This will 
generally solve the immediate problem and also help reduce further corrosion 
related problems.

In older boats where un-tinned wire is frequently found and extensive corrosion 
of individual conductors occurs, replacement of the entire length of wire with 
good quality marine grade tinned  wire will help ensure trouble free operation.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:08, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some 
 electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the 
 connector. 


 The normal substance to use would be a dielectric grease, not a conductive 
grease,
though at the 12 volt range that property does not come in to play much.

Some interesting reading on the topic:

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

Note that even the best grease, correctly applied at the contact point, will
not solve the problem of the wires just back of the connection corroding.

Michael Brown
Windburn
CC 30-1



Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2015 00:06:43 -0500 
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com 
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved! 
Message-ID: 
CA+zaCRBoNCn=eGtKFXTOD7By2eJC4jriBjHwKTjOE1=flrv...@mail.gmail.com 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 

Thanks for letting us know what you found.  I'm still curious to know if 
you have a glo-plug solenoid. 

If you don't have, can't fine, can't wait for tefgel then silicone 
dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) can be found at any auto parts 
store and is a good alternative. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 CC 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Aug 16, 2015 5:14 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote: 

 I wanted to report back on the latest on my engine panel.  I was able to 
 get the connector in the engine compartment apart today.  Two of the pins 
 were particularly black and all looked corroded.  I cleaned them all and 
 put it back together and remarkably, the engine started with both buttons 
 held down.  So that high resistance junction seems to have been the source 
 of the problem.  It is such a rewarding feeling when all the work pays off 
 and a problem is solved.  Thanks for all the advice and suggestions! 
 
 Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some 
 electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the 
 connector.  I may still butt connect all the wires this winter, but the 
 grease seems like a good option to retain good contact.  Dave 
 
 
 
 Aries 
 1990 CC 34+ 
 New London, CT 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Measuring voltage can be misleading unless the voltage is measured when the 
circuit being measured is under load. Digital voltmeters require very little 
power to read voltage and, even with lots of resistance in an unloaded circuit 
under test can indicate full expected voltage. Once the normal load on the 
circuit is applied, the voltage will drop to indicate the true voltage at the 
load.

One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more 
multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there 
for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to 
lack of current flow across the individual connectors can lead to excessive 
resistance in the various circuits, false alarms and poor starting.

I suggest as a first approach to trouble shooting any engine related starting 
or alarm problems, finding the connector(s), often there are more than one, 
pulling them apart and reconnecting them several times to clean corrosion off 
the contacts and then testing to see if the problem is resolved. If that 
resolves the problem, I am an advocate of removing the connectors completely 
and replacing them by cutting each conductor back to good, corrosion free wire 
and rejoining them using appropriately sized and crimped heat shrink butt 
connectors. This will generally solve the immediate problem and also help 
reduce further corrosion related problems.

In older boats where un-tinned wire is frequently found and extensive corrosion 
of individual conductors occurs, replacement of the entire length of wire with 
good quality marine grade tinned  wire will help ensure trouble free operation.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless but rolling in beer!





On Aug 10, 2015, at 20:15, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Since I got my boat, I have been bothered by the fact that the engine will not 
start in the way it is described in the manual unless plugged into shore power. 
 The manual says to hold the glow plug button for about 30 seconds and then 
while continuing to hold that button in, push the start button.  When I do 
that, the starter does not turn over. If I release the glow plug button and 
push the start button the engine starts fine.  My father (retired electrical 
engineer) and I (genetic engineer- useless in this case but sounds good) spent 
some time trying to diagnose the problem this weekend and found two interesting 
things:

1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.  We then 
tested power at the engine.  There is a heavy red cable coming from the battery 
to the starter measured 12V.  The red-yellow wire from the start button is 
attached to what I am presuming is the solenoid (the wiring diagram in the 
manual does not show a solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid 
when the button is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.  So that probably 
explains the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at the same 
time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid.  I will pull the 
starter next winter and have someone test it unless someone has an alternative 
suggestion.

2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the power from 
the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then a wire from the other 
lead to the start button.  The manual shows that wire running from the 
downstream side of the glow plug switch so that the start button should only be 
energized when the glow plug button is pushed (as the manual describes).  If 
that were the case, the I would not be able to start the engine with only the 
start button.  Nevertheless, it does start the engine.  Tracing the wires, we 
found that the bridging wire actually came from the hot side of the glow plug 
switch, so that either button will work independently as both are always 
powered.  What I don’t understand is why you would wire it the other way (as 
the manual shows) since that would remove the ability to start the engine 
without the glow plugs (as in an already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO 
or some yard mechanic made that change or if it is indicated wrong in the 
manual, so I am curious how other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is 
actually wired makes more sense to me than what is in the manual unless I am 
missing something.

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT

pastedGraphic.tiff

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Nuttin’ to sail, so I’ll chuck my two cents in.

You are correct, Fred. I ran my old Furuno CRT radar for 18 years, and it’s 
still going strong with the new owner, never let me down, and never tried to 
jump overboard as phones and pads sometimes do. I find that laptops are 
excessive power consumers and, counting the cost of software, are often more 
expensive that a decent purpose-built plotter and far more fragile when the 
duct tape wears out and they fall on the cabin or cockpit sole.

Gadgets are great, but take care and feeding.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC

Boatless!


On Aug 11, 2015, at 08:18, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Not too many listers chiming in on this topic.  Anyone?  Is everyone else out 
sailing?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



 On Aug 10, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 John — like most Furuno gear, I imagine the black-box radar is pretty 
 reliable.  My concern is with the other gear needed to use it.  If you’re 
 going to spend that much on buying and installing a system, you want it to 
 work when you need it.  And that’s generally when conditions are bad; which 
 is also when the consumer stuff (laptop, iPad, etc) is going to fail.  Then 
 your investment is worthless.
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
 
 On Aug 9, 2015, at 9:07 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Any thoughts on the reliability of the Furuno unit itself?  It's a bit of an 
 oddity but has been on the market for a while.  Radar is not a critical 
 function to me (except when it is) but I view this more of an offshore tool 
 than anything else.  Just my opinion which I'm sure most would disagree with.

 On August 9, 2015 at 4:47 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

 

 Hi, John.  No, you’re not crazy; just be careful with mixing and matching 
 equipment from different vendors.  And as long as you’re putting in modern 
 electronics, there’s no reason I can think of to NOT integrate all of them 
 together; you get benefits like autopilot steering to wind angle or to 
 waypoints; and the ability to repeat GPS, wind, depth and other data out to 
 WiFi if you’re so equipped.  And as far as not having a knot meter, that 
 means you lose the ability to correlate the GPS and boat data to determine if 
 you’re dealing with current set and drift, which can be very helpful.

 

 Only you know what you’d really like to have; but I would at minimum do a 
 full instrument install, and my preference would be for the i70 Sail Pack 
 system if you’re looking at Raymarine.

 

 If you go with the Furuno black box radar, you’re completely blind if your 
 iPad dies.  I’m a fan of having dedicated marine electronics for functions 
 you consider critical; if radar falls into that category, I’d think twice 
 about that setup.

 

 If the current BG autopilot system works well, there’s no reason to replace 
 it; if it takes NMEA0183 data in, I’d definitely convert that from NMEA2000 
 so it can talk with other gear as mentioned above.

 

 If you’d like AIS receive only, consider putting in a VHF radio like the 
 Standard Horizon GX2200, which has separate AIS receivers built in, and can 
 pass that info on to other equipment.  If you’d like to be seen as well, 
 there are a bunch of choices in AIS Class B transponders; I’d recommend one 
 after you nail down the rest of the equipment, so it plays well with 
 everything else.

 

 And finally, chartplotters.  I can see no reason to put in a Raymarine GPS 
 receiver just to give GPS to other gear.  If you’re NOT going to do a plotter 
 (see notes about reliability of iPad and radar…), putting in an AIS-enabled 
 VHF can get you position data just as well.  I’d suggest, though, that you 
 look at the new small MFDs that Simrad, BG, Raymarine and Garmin have out.  
 Under $1000, and you can attach radar, AIS, instruments, etc to get a fully 
 marine-capable system that runs off your boat’s batteries (no limited iPad 
 battery life, which ALWAYS seems to fail when you need it most…).

 

 I’ll be interested to see what others recommend.

 

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis

 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

 On Aug 9, 2015, at 4:30 PM, John Pennie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 

 The basic electronics (bg h1000 system) on Paws have been a challenge since 
 I first got her.  Intermittent failures at the start of each season.  Now 
 depth has failed and of all things it appears to be the transducer.  I'm 
 debating modernizing.  Please tell me if I'm crazy.  A little background:

 

 Close hauled wind indicator is important to me (which I currently don't have)

 The autopilot (BG) is a thing of beauty and will 

Re: Stus-List 3GM30F Oil Pressure warning

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike:

Did you check the oil level after the alarm sounded? It could be low after a 
period of little use followed by motoring for a few hours. At higher RPM’s, the 
oil might fall below the pickup as more oil is pumped to the head than returns 
to the pan. I hope it is simple…..

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Aug 10, 2015, at 09:17, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Oil changed in May. Used 15W 40
Oil level checked July 22
300 mile delivery to Cape Breton (Dundee then Baddeck) July 23 – Aug 2
 
Yesterday after running engine at 2800 RPM for approx. 5.5 hrs a “clicking 
sound” was heard in cockpit.  Thought at first was from Ram mic  but was still 
there once disconnected.  Determined was coming from alarm speaker on Yanmar 
panel.  Tapped panel and then Oil pressure light illuminated and alarm sounded. 
 Shut down engine and sailed to dock (without crashing)
 
At dock started engine and at idle no alarm or light.  Revved up to 3000 RPM 
and the light started flickering and a sputtering sound from the speaker (the 
clicking sound we heard earlier) which was followed by full illumination of Oil 
pressure light and full alarm siren.  Stoped engine and waited.
 
A few minutes later retarted engine and had no alarm at idle, followed by 
sputtering and then full alarm at high rpms. Reduced RPMs to idle and alarm 
stopped and light turned off.
 
Any thoughts? 
 
Boat is currently 3.5 hrs away by car so any parts will have to be taken with 
me in advance
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

It’s just like a blown muffler on your car. You need a bigger stereo.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jul 31, 2015, at 19:26, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam Bay and had a strange problem. At 
a certain wind speed, the shrouds would start to hum, sometimes making the boat 
shake with vibration. The major vibration was felt in the small rod running to 
the underside of the upper spreaders and in the mast and backstay.  I backed 
each shroud one off half a turn and it really didn't do much except make those 
shrouds look loose to me, but I'm sure I can't tell the difference of 1/128th 
of an inch. It eventually faded as the wind dropped. 
For the next ten days, in all sorts of conditions, we didn't hear it, but when 
we anchored in the same bay 10 days later, we got it again. 
Any explanation except witchcraft?
 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Intimidating Music (hee hee)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Geez, John, sorry you took this seriously. I didn’t. I knew everyone on board 
the committee boat, all talented volunteers, and frequently was on board 
myself. There is always room for a chuckle in my life and they gave me a good 
one that day. And Moosehead should only be given to folks you really don’t like 
very much:)

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On Jul 20, 2015, at 18:42, John Pennie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Really not a funny story.  I’ve served on enough race committees that took 
their work seriously and were respected for it.  No place for that, even in 
jest. It just shouldn’t happen.  Right up there with the Kazoos at the 
Manhattan club.  it sounds funny but just isn’t professional.

Send them a 6 pack of Moosehead.

John

 On Jul 16, 2015, at 9:00 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I got told by the RC at the end of a race in Montreal as I passed the finish 
 line “If we knew you were racing, we would have brought a calendar.” 
 
 No respect at all.
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Boatless!
 
 
 
 
 
 On Jul 15, 2015, at 17:54, mike amirault via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I prefer to say nothing at the start; just smile and wave. A few years ago, 
 when I was racing my Mirage 25 boat for boat against another Mirage 25, a 
 young chap yelled over that they were gonna kick my ass. After the race was 
 over and they were beaten by about 20 min. they sailed past my mooring. I 
 yelled over hey Matt, I tried to hail you on the VHF but you must have been 
 out of range, then I tried your cell but the recording said I would have to 
 pay long distance charges
 He was quiter next race. MUCH quieter. ;)
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Intimidating Music (hee hee)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I got told by the RC at the end of a race in Montreal as I passed the finish 
line “If we knew you were racing, we would have brought a calendar.” 

No respect at all.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jul 15, 2015, at 17:54, mike amirault via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

I prefer to say nothing at the start; just smile and wave. A few years ago, 
when I was racing my Mirage 25 boat for boat against another Mirage 25, a young 
chap yelled over that they were gonna kick my ass. After the race was over 
and they were beaten by about 20 min. they sailed past my mooring. I yelled 
over hey Matt, I tried to hail you on the VHF but you must have been out of 
range, then I tried your cell but the recording said I would have to pay long 
distance charges
He was quiter next race. MUCH quieter. ;)
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cruisin' Music

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Very tasteful…. Geesh!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jul 13, 2015, at 11:23, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avaSdC0QOUM 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avaSdC0QOUM



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


PastedGraphic-1.tiff










 On Jul 13, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Toots  the Maytals.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPNln7nPCJc
 
 There's no accounting for taste or mood. As a general rule I listen to 
 everything. In practice I primarily listen to old 60s reggae, ska, and rock n 
 roll (old and new). I have no more time or energy for 'easy listening' or 
 anything depressing (classical != easy listening). Happy music only please. 
 Bob Marley gets a lot of playtime both on and off the boat. Legend is the 
 worst Bob Marley album.
 
 There is so much good music out there how can you settle on any one thing?
 
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto
 
 
 
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Now, girls…!!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Jul 1, 2015, at 15:24, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

You really ought to become better informed yourself before you go shooting your 
mouth off about killing people. You obviously know very little about these 
chemicals, chemistry in general, or proportions or common usage yourself, or 
you wouldn't make such ridiculous and offensive comments about other sailors on 
this list. 
 
Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
 - Original Message - 
 From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Kevin Driscoll mailto:kevindrisc...@gmail.com ; Jean-Francois J Rivard 
 mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com
 Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2015 10:36
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
 
 Anybody dumping Roundup in to their bottom paint and the waters in which we 
 sail should be taken out to the barn and shot. Dumping a witches brew of anti 
 biotics into these same waters is similarly ignorant IMO. Complain about the 
 EPA all you like, but someone needs to take on the unenviable task of 
 protecting the rest of us and our sailing waters from the ill informed and 
 questionably intentioned. My 2 cents.
 Kevin
 30-2
 On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, 7:10 AM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I totally concur.. 
 You want the stuff to perform as designed.. You apply it as prescribed.  If 
 the tetracycline was as effective as claimed, it would be in the paint from 
 the factory.  
 BTW, My burnished Trinidad Pro is still pristine (I check it regularly when 
 we swim) after being constantly in the water 1.5 years. It's not real long 
 yet but that is 1.5 years continuous.  My competition scrubs their VC-17 
 bottom every week, I scrub it never yet we're fast enough to consistently 
 show-up on the podium despite our inexperienced team's frequent mistakes and 
 my old bedsheet sails. :-)
 -Francois
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA  
 
 
 
 Message: 6
 Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2015 01:07:36 + (UTC)
 From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net
 To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
 Message-ID:
 
 1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net 
 mailto:1958787858.6613606.1435712856109.javamail.zim...@comcast.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria 
 but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I 
 wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion 
 and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round 
 Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off 
 during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting 
 as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the 
 directions. 
 I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
 close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 
 I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
 got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead 
 of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better 
 paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling 
 looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to 
 their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck 
 brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and 
 Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the 
 paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. 
 They are multi season hard abatives. 
 Chuck 
 Resolute 
 1990 CC 34R 
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 
 Regards
 François Rivard 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
 img 
 src=https://ci3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/yT9P9fq6fQSQzdkkNrsCfc9byuINy9P3Hy_JDJyBHLurJGNqz4lLsxPlpZFYKlaPaON-FGTygiky9KrwObK-bihv6aEqVkE0YISadySMFMhVYPvzD0dNQO2kneoxPl3M_TJPdKOfr83584VGIq_edJRcfI7aazHDBAF0AXkCDKOPSzDwldfw1sUbias9bAJ4zuKpjHXI33y29P2p8V2wbKZuM7abbAowc9SowLGHV9_WjjWpJ9217PPJHWy8pFaBFwADNjAAh241XHMC1An92_F3zrTMgxiPmwve_5Z8fZBjn-DGFbOJBYIji5VlVdIkarqsOk8_UCnhs-pytmTABzw9G-TB2eah9uVZIiPizTmELX_Dsi8_x3WPF0qXRoBU5au0HM6I4A=s0-d-e1-ft#https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2ik=8d5d5ecb01attid=0.0.1th=14e49f48daac7062view=fimgrm=14e49f48daac7062sz=w1600-h1000attbid=ANGjdJ_xhrJR6ziOlX73QDcgzXMydePNMZ6YNmEpaglbP-lTjbBuLzvyP8qjh7V96sFUM8UkDH-niK1rPb4Dm1EDBoFLaqECC6RyYMgV4URidGX-qMhi72Ntd3beXeodisp=embzw
  
 

Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Scotch does that to me, but it takes more than one spritz in each gill….

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On Jun 18, 2015, at 18:33, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

We used a cedar plug trailing on a heavy mono line joined to surgical tubing 
coming back from Hawaii last year, got a nice mahi and a nice albacore within 
minutes. A spray bottle of vodka dispatched them amazingly quickly. One shot 
into each gill and that was that. 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ecj52bdEiCo/VGP0OQZFptI/Cts/31i7niiJYkM/w1238-h820-no/DSC_9432.jpg
 
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Ecj52bdEiCo/VGP0OQZFptI/Cts/31i7niiJYkM/w1238-h820-no/DSC_9432.jpg
 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal M-35 Water Heater Hose Size?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Beats a cold shower!

Rich.







On Jun 8, 2015, at 17:59, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


Why are you heating hot water?


At 08:40 AM 08/06/2015, you wrote:
 Listers,
 
 Does anyone know, off hand, the size of the hoses that run from a Universal 
 M-35 to the hot water heater? 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List sail question

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Two years ago I had to purchase a new jib as the old roller-furling #2 Norlam 
sail finally gave up after 20 years of continuous use. I decided to buy new as 
nothing used appealed to me. I also decided to buy a 110% #3. It cost me 3K 
from North and turned out to be an excellent decision. That sail provided 
enough power for the boat for whatever sailing I wished to do with little 
apparent loss of speed. The biggest advantage was the comparative ease of 
tacking and trimming as the foretriangle on a LF38 is large and requires a lot 
of winch labour. 

My .02 (Canadian)

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC

Boatless!


On Jun 4, 2015, at 08:20, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Thanks for all the info so far.
Racing is not an issue for this sail. Neither is real light air, I can motor, 
use the spinnaker, or drag out one of my 170 genoas. I have a Mylar and light 
Dacron 170 that both have hardly been used.
I am thinking smaller instead of bigger because when the wind is really kicking 
I want to roll in to around 100% and still have a good shape.
I have looked for used sails for years now and kind of given up on that. Unless 
the boat sinks, no one is giving up a good furling jib. If you want a racing 
sail or an old hank-on sail, plenty of those around. It looks like I will need 
to go new for this.
 
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com mailto:j...@dellabarba.com
 
Coquina

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Only if it’s lit and loaded. 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 2, 2015, at 07:31, D Harben via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

On Jun 2, 2015, at 9:58 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 
 What kind of barbeque? I think a Weber with side burner will do okay in a 
 weedy bottom if the top opens. :)
 
 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 
 At 10:04 PM 01/06/2015, you wrote:
 This is why I was asking what kind of anchor it was. I had a backyard-built 
 plow anchor on Shift when we bought her, the proportions were all wrong and 
 it held like a castoff barbecue. Design matters. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 1 June 2015 at 21:42, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Hi Dwight,
 
 In my reply to Joe I mentioned having but not using a Bruce Lee... that is 
 what a Chinese knock-off is known as around here. Kinda cute, get it? Bruce 
 Lee, the Chinese  character? 
 
 Anyhow, the Bruce Lee is a cast version of the original anchor, which was 
 forged steel.
 check post #28
 http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors 
 http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?162068-Bruce-Anchors
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Anchor Size

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Joe, for what you describe you are planning on doing, that anchor should do 
just fine. If you think you may be possibly caught needing more secure footing, 
there are several recently introduced anchors that may serve you better; Rocna 
etc, but at considerably more cost. As others are pointing out, more weight 
means more security and the more chain in the rode, the better the anchor will 
perform.

You might also consider installing a windlass as, unless you are a built like a 
windlass, manually hauling bigger anchors and more chain can be a real slog.

 I used a 15 kg. Bruce with 150’ of 5/16” chain backed by 200’ of ⅝” nylon rode 
with a Lofrans windlass on my LF38 for the 17 years I owned her and never had a 
problem.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 31, 2015, at 22:04, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 What size anchor do I need for my 38?  I want to put a plow anchor on a 
 roller and found a 35lb one locally for $50. Found a chart on the photo album 
 that says that would be more than enough but that chart seems to be the 
 exception.  We are in Lake Erie and our only real use would be for an 
 afternoon of swimming and occasional overnight in a very protected bay. 
 
 Thanks
 
 Joe
 
 Sent from my iPad
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

She’s been in that slip since 1997. Say hi to Barry Clarke, the new owner and 
get him on the chat group. He’s a good guy and a great doctor. Kept me alive 
for years, much to everyone’s annoyance.

Rich 





On Jun 1, 2015, at 08:06, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Thanks Rich
 
Have contacted CMC
 
Indigo is in the water right across from Persistence
 
Mike
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 01, 2015 12:05 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Knowles Rich
Subject: Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts
 
Mike:
 
Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever 
they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480.
 
Cheers
 
Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!




 
On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 
http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544
 
Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing.  
Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot.  Although not in use something managed to 
catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with 
the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. 
 
The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 
11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” 
which we found in pieces.  We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings 
but not certain.  Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many 
bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is 
for ST6002)
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List ST6002 replacement parts

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike:

Binnacle can get that stuff for you or you can go direct to CMC, or whatever 
they call themselves these days, the Raymarine reps in Burnside. 902-468-8480.

Cheers

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On Jun 1, 2015, at 05:51, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544 
http://hudsonmarine.co.uk/index.php?module_display=41pid=142544
 
Over the weekend we raced in 20-25 TWS and managed to break only one thing.  
Our raymarine ST6002 wheel pilot.  Although not in use something managed to 
catch on it (possibly a foot) and the grey ring on the wheel came apart with 
the usual bang and ball bearings flying that accompany breakage. 
 
The attached link seems to be a parts diagram for this or a similar unit. Part 
11 the “drive ring” has a portion broken off as well as part 10 “bearing cage” 
which we found in pieces.  We may have salvaged all of the stainless bearings 
but not certain.  Anyone know where to find replacement parts and how many 
bearings there are supposed to be? (21 in this diagram but not sure if that is 
for ST6002)
 
Mike
Persistence
Halifax
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

One old trick for tightening a bushing on a shaft is to centre punch the 
bushing (gudgeon) around the shaft (pintle) hole. That will spread the metal 
around the shaft enough to remove minor slop. It’s not the best way to fix a 
problem but will work for a while until you can do a permanent repair.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!


On May 31, 2015, at 07:47, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter hole. 
On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just the holes in 
the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink tubing at one time to 
make up the difference. There really is not room for anything thicker. It seems 
so loose, but it really is not much of a gap at all. Just enough for an 
annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long of I don't wedge a length of pool 
noodle between the rudder and transom before turning in for the night.

There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon holes to 
fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the pin to 7/16 inch 
to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very thin shrink tubing. Note 
that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous piece the length of the pin, as 
it will not fit through the hole in the rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a 
problem as it might seem. I may even remove the piece over next winter and have 
Garhaur or some other machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a 
model. If I take that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and 
room for replaceable generic plastic bushings.

Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
 The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
 if any to squeeze a bushing in there.
 
 Brent
 Lake Winnipeg.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
 machinist should be able to make them.
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
   I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my
   Rhodes 19.  Jerry. 27mkv.   JJ
 
   Sent from my iPhone
 
 On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
   cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Good day.
 I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
   transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
   hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
   replace them.  My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
   anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
 Cheers
 
 Brent Driedger
 27 MkV
 Lake Winnipeg.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go
   to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
   ___
 
   Email address:
   CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
   To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to
   the bottom of page at:
   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

12.7 is fully charged. 13.6 is a battery under charge.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 26, 2015, at 08:28, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.

Joel

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Edd,
From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has failed 
for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the battery switch 
itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then substitute a known 
good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely any car battery, 
including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if the battery is fully 
charged and in new condition. There is no way that you need to consider 
paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to your starting problem.
 
Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
 
 
 
- Original Message -
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 10:08
Subject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

Josh,

When just the T-1275 is engaged, it’s a slow to no churning. When I combine 
with the House Bank, she’ll start up. 

I know the specs of the engine and the T-1275 say it should work, but the 
numbers are close and, perhaps if the engine was new or in perfect condition it 
would, but the amps just aren’t there to get it going.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/






 On May 26, 2015, at 10:03 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 What makes tou think you don't have enough juice? What are your syptoms?
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Also: A trojan T1275 is a deep cycle battery, according their website, and may 
not be capable of delivering the full power required to start a recalcitrant 
engine.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!





On May 26, 2015, at 08:40, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Joel,

I have the challenge that statement. When over 13 volts, the battery is in a 
charging state — power is being put into the battery from an alternator or 
external charging source.

See this chart: 
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sjQa85Sqkts/UOiBZ_ESsXI/A1Y/kRSbJIGLZ7M/s403/12vbattery.png
 
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sjQa85Sqkts/UOiBZ_ESsXI/A1Y/kRSbJIGLZ7M/s403/12vbattery.png
 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


PastedGraphic-1.tiff










 On May 26, 2015, at 11:28 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 12.7 volts in not fully charged.  Should be 13.6.
 
 Joel
 
 On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Edd,
 From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
 failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
 battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
 substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. Absolutely 
 any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your engine if 
 the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no way that you 
 need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent solution to 
 your starting problem.
  
 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON
  
  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Also suggest hauling the starter motor and get it checked out. They don't live 
forever. 

RK

 On May 26, 2015, at 08:50, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 If everything is good, then this battery can crank that engine without 
 breaking a sweat, even if the engine does not start easily and has to crank 
 for a bit. New connections are not automatically good connections. Check 
 resistance at every connection involved, and also measure voltage drop at the 
 starter when being cranked. It is also possible for a battery to have one bad 
 cell that will take a surface charge and make the battery look good until you 
 put a load on it. Harbor Freight has load testers for not a lot of money. You 
 could also take the battery to most places that sell batteries for a free 
 load test. 
 
 Bill Bina 
 
 On 5/26/2015 11:34 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
 Steve,
 
 That’s where I’m confused, to be honest — the spec sheet on the T-1275 is 
 here: 
 http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T1275_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf 
 
 And, according to Josh, the engine can pull up to 175amps while starting. 
 When I combine, there’s enough there. 
 
 All my connections are sound — they’re all new. 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On May 26, 2015, at 11:20 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Edd, 
 From what you are saying, it sounds like either your T-1275 has 
 failed for some reason, or you have a bad connection - possibly in the 
 battery switch itself. If you don't have a way to test the battery, then 
 substitute a known good battery in its place and see what happens. 
 Absolutely any car battery, including the cheapest Walmart, will start your 
 engine if the battery is fully charged and in new condition. There is no 
 way that you need to consider paralleling starting batteries as a permanent 
 solution to your starting problem. 
  
 Steve Thomas
 CC27 MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike. He's a great guy, and his medical skills are to blame for my 
continuing existence. I'm glad he bought her.

I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. We got together with Russ and Melodie 
yesterday for a chat on their 35 mk1 on which he has done a great refurbishing 
job. Finally got to meet him after many years of chatting on this forum. 
Another great guy with a terrific partner. It's the CC influence!

Rich

 On May 25, 2015, at 05:34, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Rich
  
 Ran into Barry Clarke yesterday at the club.  He is very happy with Indigo 
 and says he sailed on it quite a bit last year and before that.
  
 He is itching to get it launched!
  
 For any who do not know Barry’s claim to fame was as a goalie in the 
 Rockingham Minor Hockey system on our Pee Wee and Atom “A” teams.  He also 
 had a CC 33-2 for many years.  .. and oh yeah – he is also known for being a 
 well respected Doctor of medicine
  
 Mike
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
 Rich via CnC-List
 Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 2:31 AM
 To: cnc-list Cnc-List
 Cc: Knowles Rich
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
  
 Thanks, Russ!
  
 Yep, it’s all over. Money in the bank and some already spent. Not sure what’s 
 next. We’ll see. Meantime, I’m hanging out here unless I’m kicked off.
  
 Cheers
  
 Rich
  
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Boatless!
 
  
  
 On May 22, 2015, at 22:24, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
  
 Hi Rich,
 
 Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days 
 are currently under discussion at the institute.)
 
 Can we assume the sale is final?
 
 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 
 
 At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote:
 
 Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel 
 wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the 
 factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and 
 wear set in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless 
 of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. 
 I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires 
 together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event 
 that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be 
 severed and rejoined as needed.
 
 I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place 
 to start.
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 Boatless.
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Looking at a 30 today. Looks pretty decent from the exterior. A4. 

RK

 On May 25, 2015, at 07:33, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Get another CC?
 
 Rich wrote:
 I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. snip
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 

RK

 On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 25 May 2015 at 10:04, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 It'll take me back to my old stock car building days.
 
 RK
 
  On May 25, 2015, at 08:14, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:
 
  Rich
 
  Get one with an engine that needs a bit of tuning.  That way you can spend 
  a summer working on it and keep us updated 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles 
  Rich via CnC-List
  Sent: Monday, May 25, 2015 12:09 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Knowles Rich
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich
 
  Looking at a 30 today. Looks pretty decent from the exterior. A4.
 
  RK
 
  On May 25, 2015, at 07:33, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Get another CC?
 
  Rich wrote:
  I just gotta figger what I'm doing now. snip
 
 
  ___
 
  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
  bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
  ___
 
  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
  bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
  ___
 
  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
  bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I thought about but can't afford the drugs. 

RK

 On May 25, 2015, at 18:55, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Working? What are you, insane? Go on the dole like everyone else here. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 25 May 2015 at 18:26, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 I'll check it out. May be working. 
 
 RK
 
 On May 25, 2015, at 15:12, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Coming to the rendezvous? There's some nice BB's on Thetis. 
 
 New info on the web site...http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 25 May 2015 at 14:03, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 
 
 RK
 
 On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie.
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

It certainly appears to be. Mebbe I'm missing a business opportunity. We do 
have a balcony, sunshine and water...

RK

 On May 25, 2015, at 19:47, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Grow your own, it's legal here. 
 
 Isn't it? 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 25 May 2015 at 19:24, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 I thought about but can't afford the drugs. 
 
 RK
 
 On May 25, 2015, at 18:55, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Working? What are you, insane? Go on the dole like everyone else here. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 25 May 2015 at 18:26, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 I'll check it out. May be working. 
 
 RK
 
 On May 25, 2015, at 15:12, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Coming to the rendezvous? There's some nice BB's on Thetis. 
 
 New info on the web site...http://members.shaw.ca/cncrdv/
 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 On 25 May 2015 at 14:03, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Wilco. I'll keep you up to date. Time for a visit. 
 
 RK
 
 On May 25, 2015, at 11:35, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Make sure you shoot video when you do your first wheelie.
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Best wishes to Rich

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Thanks, Russ!

Yep, it’s all over. Money in the bank and some already spent. Not sure what’s 
next. We’ll see. Meantime, I’m hanging out here unless I’m kicked off.

Cheers

Rich

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Boatless!



On May 22, 2015, at 22:24, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Hi Rich,

Best wishes on the second or third happiest day of your life. (Wedding days are 
currently under discussion at the institute.)

Can we assume the sale is final?

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:05 PM 22/05/2015, you wrote:
 Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel 
 wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the 
 factory, but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and 
 wear set in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless 
 of make or engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. 
 I suggest cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires 
 together using top quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event 
 that the engine has to be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be 
 severed and rejoined as needed.
 
 I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place 
 to start.
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 Boatless.
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Starting problems

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Pretty much every marine engine has a connector or two in the engine/panel 
wiring harness. They are there to make installation convenient at the factory, 
but, after a few years, can cause a lot of problems as corrosion and wear set 
in. I’ve seen electrical problems on every size of boat regardless of make or 
engine type that bypassing these connectors has frequently cured. I suggest 
cutting out the connectors and splicing the individual wires together using top 
quality heat shrink crimp butt connectors. In the event that the engine has to 
be serviced, removed, or replaced, the wires can be severed and rejoined as 
needed.

I’m not sure that this is the root of your problems but it’s a good place to 
start.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless.





On May 22, 2015, at 06:00, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Derek,

Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and 
check each connection. 

Could also be your starter solenoid. 

Good luck. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
CC 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com http://www.starshipsailing.com/
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 6
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC 30 mk1. Normally, 
when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm sounds. Pressing 
the starter button starts the engine and the alarm stops.




This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned the main switch on 
one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I pressed the starter. No 
cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in my basement and were 
fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the charger showed full 
charge on both batteries.



This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the process the 
engine started.



I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a replacement Yanmar 
switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with them and I was very 
impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day.



I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at the old switch 
before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t solve my 
problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm and 
pressing the starter button got no reaction.



I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for help. Thanks in 
advance



Derek Kennedy


Tortuga

CC 30 mk1

Ballantyne’s Cove, NS

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Stupid Club

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I used my 7 litre Pela vacuum extractor to empty the sump on my 3QM30 one fall 
and then kicked it over on the way up the companionway. Had to yank the sole 
and swab out the engine compartment. About three hours as I recall. Nice!

Rich 


On May 19, 2015, at 19:08, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I left the oil cap off once.  Ran the boat hard for 6 hours before I noticed.  
Also had the mess.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: robert via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert robertabb...@eastlink.ca
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2015 10:23:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List Rig - crack?

Wally:
I have no problem admitting to my mental limitationsif I were that 
smart, I wouldn't be sailing a 31 year old boat and I wouldn't be doing 
all of the maintenance/work myself.  Possibly explains why I am a big 
fan of the CC list.

Here's another example of 'stupid'..changed the engine oil last Fall 
just before haul outstarted the engine after the oil change but just 
long enough to hear the engine alarm go 'off'launched this Spring 
and went for a half hour motor before docking.noticed some oil in 
the bilgenow we get to the 'stupid'..forgot to put the oil cap 
back on the to of the engine last Fall after the oil changesome oil 
spurted out of the top of the engine and made a mess all the way to the 
bilge.

Had a big clean up.I am a full member of the 'stupid club' and 
freely admit it!

Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-14 11:04 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
 you wrote:
 Steve:
  Instantly, now I feel stupid

 Welcome to the club.


 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Aaaw! Thanks, Gary:) A little understanding goes a long way. 

I’m off kayaking for the weekend. Big switch from the LF38. Not much prop walk 
and not much room for beer either. H….

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 17, 2015, at 03:08, Gary Russell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Far from me to ridicule a sensitive guy!  333.png
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 11:39 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of 
prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, location 
of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft angle, both 
vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull speed through the 
water, phase of the moon, etc. etc, but I’ll stick with my basic premise until 
disproved or ridiculed out of contention.

I’m a sensitive guy.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 16, 2015, at 07:19, Bob Hickson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.
You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of the 
hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into the 
rudder.
The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the port 
side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop located on 
the center line of the hull
 
Fair Winds,
 
Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297 tel:416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I’ll have t try that. Mebbe before we get in the doggone thing…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 17, 2015, at 07:54, S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Rum takes up less room.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Knowles Rich via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list Cnc-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Knowles Rich mailto:r...@sailpower.ca
 Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2015 10:18
 Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk
 
 Aaaw! Thanks, Gary:) A little understanding goes a long way. 
 
 I’m off kayaking for the weekend. Big switch from the LF38. Not much prop 
 walk and not much room for beer either. H….
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 
 On May 17, 2015, at 03:08, Gary Russell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Far from me to ridicule a sensitive guy!  333.png
 Gary
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 On Sat, May 16, 2015 at 11:39 PM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of 
 prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, 
 location of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft 
 angle, both vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull 
 speed through the water, phase of the moon, etc. etc, but I’ll stick with my 
 basic premise until disproved or ridiculed out of contention.
 
 I’m a sensitive guy.
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 
 On May 16, 2015, at 07:19, Bob Hickson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.
 You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of 
 the hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into 
 the rudder.
 The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the 
 port side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop 
 located on the center line of the hull
  
 Fair Winds,
  
 Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
 Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
 C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
 416-919-2297 tel:416-919-2297
 bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com
  
  
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 29-2 Prop walk

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I think that there are plenty of variables that will influence the amount of 
prop walk and wash including the design of the propellor, hull design, location 
of the prop, aperture or not, hull-to-prop-tip distance, shaft angle, both 
vertical and horizontal, rudder design, prop rpm/speed, hull speed through the 
water, phase of the moon, etc. etc, but I’ll stick with my basic premise until 
disproved or ridiculed out of contention.

I’m a sensitive guy.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 16, 2015, at 07:19, Bob Hickson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Interesting theories / comments on the causes of prop walk.
You should note that on the 29-2 the prop is offset from the center line of the 
hull and it is located to the port side of the small skeg leading into the 
rudder.
The combined downward angle of the prop shaft PLUS the angle towards the port 
side of the hull is likely to worsen prop walk as compared to a prop located on 
the center line of the hull
 
Fair Winds,
 
Bob Hickson, P. Eng.
Frenchman’s Bay Yacht Club,
C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours,
416-919-2297
bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com
 
 
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Prop Walk CC 29-2

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Well, this might be just the right time to float a theory I’ve had for some 
time about “prop walk”.  Here it is:

When the propellor is spinning, it produces a rotating horizontal column or 
spinning cylinder of water molecules which move away from the propellor along 
its axis. When the boat is going forward, this rotating column is left in the 
wake and, other than being split equally by the rudder as the boat moves 
forward, the spinning column has little to no effect on the directional 
performance of the boat as it is left behind in the wake and gradually 
dissipates.

When the propellor is put in reverse, forcing water to the front of the boat as 
it pulls the hull backwards, the column of spinning water leaving the prop is 
no longer free to dissipate in the wake, but encounters the hull of the boat 
immediately in front of the propellor. If you consider the column of water as a 
spinning cylinder made up of molecules of water, the outer wall of the cylinder 
striking the hull will cause it to roll up the side of the boat away from the 
keel and toward the surface, and the spinning molecules in the interior of the 
cylinder will be directed away from the centre line of the hull and off to the 
side.

To see this in action, put your stationary boat in reverse and note on which 
side of the boat the water is agitated. If you have a right handed prop that 
turns left when in reverse, the column of water will be directed to the 
starboard side of the boat and will therefore push the stern of the boat to 
port. If you have a left handed propellor that turns to the right in reverse, 
the column of water will be directed to the port or left side of the boat 
pushing the stern to starboard. Thus the much cursed and very useful affect 
known as prop walk.

Just my theory, but it seems to work for me. Comments welcomed.

Cheers

Rich

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold (really!) in Halifax, NS.





On May 15, 2015, at 07:51, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Prop walk is a function of the asymmetrical thrust produced by the angle of the 
shaft / rotational angle of the blades vs the water surface.  The more downward 
angle on the prop / the longer the blade has to travel going from bottom 
towards the surface compared to the blade that goes from top to bottom.  Longer 
path = more thrust per rotation for that blade = unequal thrust.. Pretty simple 
concept. 
See here: http://www.castlemarine.co.uk/propwalk.pdf 
http://www.castlemarine.co.uk/propwalk.pdf

Increasing either pitch or diameter affects prop walk and so does prop design.  
While efficient for sailing due to a typically smaller diameter, the Campbell 
Sailer is known for pretty bad prop walk.. 

With a little practice prop walk can be useful when you need to pivot or crab 
sideways.  I use a Martec folder which is also known for dismal reverse / prop 
walk.  For what I do, neither bothers me at all.  When I don't want prop walk I 
just give it a smooth burst of reverse thrust then put it in neutral / glide 
precisely where I want.  (I always back into my slip) 

Good luck, 

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA. 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Coolant distribution pump (fresh water pump?)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike: Rosborough Boats is now the local parts and service outlet for Yanmar. 
902-450-3262

Or ask Peter Drillio. He may have one in his basement or truck, or know where 
to get one/how to repair yours.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 13, 2015, at 06:35, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Yanmar 3GM30F.
The weeping hole on the pump that distributes antifreeze throughout engine and 
various systems is now leaking antifreeze.  I believe Yanmar in their wisdom 
calls this the Fresh Water pump although my mechanic calls it a coolant 
distribution pump.
 
Anyone know who is best to purchase this part from in Halifax, NS?
 
Is this a DIY replacement or engage marine diesel mechanic job?
 
When did sailing become all about working on an engine, doing plumbing and 
cleaning ovens?
 
Mike
Persistence
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I was all set until I read that there is no trailer.


Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 12, 2015, at 20:43, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Yeah, my wife said, buy it for parts?  I wasn't expecting that from her...

The engine looked to be in pretty good shape from the photos.

Frederick G Street
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38)
Bayfield, WI



On May 12, 2015, at 9:22 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com 
mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Yeah, for $63 I think I will pass. Although there might be some good 
 parts..
 
 Doug Mountjoy
 svPegasus
 LF38
 just west of Ballard, WA.
 -- Original message--
 From: Nate Flesness via CnC-List
 Date: Tue, May 12, 2015 17:48
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
 Cc: Nate Flesness;
 Subject:Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-C-amp-C-Landfall-Monohull-/221767154206?_trksid=p2056016.l4276
  
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-C-amp-C-Landfall-Monohull-/221767154206?_trksid=p2056016.l4276
 
 Last bid I saw was $61. Might be worth it then again
 
 Nate
 Sarah Jean
 1980 CC 30-1
 headed for the St. Croix River
 
 and
 Adagio
 1994 Tartan 31
 Lake Superior
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

The large wire, orange or otherwise, that connects the alternator output post 
to the post on the solenoid where the battery is connected should be 
disconnected from the alternator. It can be removed completely. Then connect 
the alternator output to the house bank. Since the wire run will likely be 
longer to the battery than it was to the starter, I recommend using heavier 
wire to reduce voltage drop. I suggest using 6 AWG wire. Make sure you are 
using good crimping tools and that the wire is physically tied off to the 
engine near the alternator so that the terminal is not exposed to vibration.

The other wire on the solenoid battery terminal or possibly on the alternator 
output terminal will be the wire to the instrument cluster that enables engine 
start and the gauges. Ideally that should be fed from the engine start battery 
which will be tied to the solenoid.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 4, 2015, at 10:44, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Listers,

My rewire project is about 80% complete and I plan to finish tomorrow. Thanks 
to all for the advice. 

I took a look at the back of the alternator, where I want to change the output 
wiring to go back to the house bank (where the ACR is). But there are several 
wires coming out of it and I’m not sure of which one to cut and replace.

See: 
http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/images/wiringdiagram.gif 
http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/images/wiringdiagram.gif 

I’m pretty sure I should remove the orange wire, but wanted to verify with the 
list. And I wanted to make sure that if it is the orange wire, and I do remove 
it, that it won’t have any negative effect on any other engine systems. 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


PastedGraphic-1.tiff










___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

 
  
 
  
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Knowles Rich via CnC-List
 Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 1:36 PM
 To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list Cnc-List
 Subject: Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step
 
  
 
 Hi All. I’ve been having an offline conversation with Josh, see below.
 
  
 
 Perhaps someone else might like to answer Josh’s questions as I can’t… 
 
  
 
 Rich Knowles
 
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
  
 
 On May 2, 2015, at 17:41, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com 
 mailto:muckl...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  
 
 Doesn't the luff moves forward when you move the foot forward?  The original 
 poster was asking about placement of wood blocks.  He had all 4 blocks 
 forward of the mast and the mask back all the way aft.  I assumed that in 
 moving the blocks to move the mast forward that this would move the foot 
 forward as well.  No mention of changing headstay length so I assumed it to 
 be the fixed point in all of this.  Based on these assumptions the trailing 
 edge of the mast and the luff edge of the sail would also move forward but 
 the mast as a whole would have more rake.  Right?
 
 Josh
 
 On May 2, 2015 6:53 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca 
 mailto:r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
 
 I'm confused. Since the luff is attached to the trailing edge of the mast, if 
 the mast rake increases the luff must move along with it. Perhaps someone 
 else can make more sense if this than I can for you. I'm at work but will 
 post our conversation to the masses when I get home. 
 
 RK
 
 
 On May 2, 2015, at 15:16, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com 
 mailto:muckl...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 What you said was that moving the mast aft moves the center of effort aft.  
 Since the original question was about placement of the mast foot being all 
 the way aft and the consequences of moving it forward I assumed you were 
 referring to the foot.  I had originally stated that moving the foot forward 
 would increase rake and then mis-stated that increased rake would reduce 
 weather helm.  I was quickly corrected and I conceeded that more rake equals 
 more weather helm.
 
 So what is the combined effect of moving the luff edge forward but increasing 
 rake?  The two actions have opposite effects correct?
 
 Josh
 
 On May 2, 2015 2:28 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca 
 mailto:r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
 
 Moving the mast aft moves the centre of sail effort aft and increases weather 
 helm. Simple geometry.
 
  
 
 Rich Knowles
 
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
  
 
 On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  
 
 Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 On Apr 30, 2015 2:13 PM, N7FN--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 Hi,
 
 I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is 
 positioned.
 
 Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the mast 
 was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.
 
 The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where the 
 workers in the yard put it.
 
 Any ideas about how the boat would sail if the mast was positioned all the 
 way forward as opposed to all the way aft?  I have seen adjustments for 
 moving the mast in it's step on some sports boats.
 
 Frank Noragon
 CC 38LF, s/n 001
 Rose City Yacht Club
 Portland, Oregon 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
  
 
  
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

Email address:
CnC-List

Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Hi All. I’ve been having an offline conversation with Josh, see below.

Perhaps someone else might like to answer Josh’s questions as I can’t…

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Almost sold in Halifax, NS.





On May 2, 2015, at 17:41, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote:

Doesn't the luff moves forward when you move the foot forward?  The original 
poster was asking about placement of wood blocks.  He had all 4 blocks forward 
of the mast and the mask back all the way aft.  I assumed that in moving the 
blocks to move the mast forward that this would move the foot forward as well.  
No mention of changing headstay length so I assumed it to be the fixed point in 
all of this.  Based on these assumptions the trailing edge of the mast and the 
luff edge of the sail would also move forward but the mast as a whole would 
have more rake.  Right?

Josh

On May 2, 2015 6:53 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
I'm confused. Since the luff is attached to the trailing edge of the mast, if 
the mast rake increases the luff must move along with it. Perhaps someone else 
can make more sense if this than I can for you. I'm at work but will post our 
conversation to the masses when I get home. 

RK

On May 2, 2015, at 15:16, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com 
mailto:muckl...@gmail.com wrote:

 What you said was that moving the mast aft moves the center of effort aft.  
 Since the original question was about placement of the mast foot being all 
 the way aft and the consequences of moving it forward I assumed you were 
 referring to the foot.  I had originally stated that moving the foot forward 
 would increase rake and then mis-stated that increased rake would reduce 
 weather helm.  I was quickly corrected and I conceeded that more rake equals 
 more weather helm.
 
 So what is the combined effect of moving the luff edge forward but increasing 
 rake?  The two actions have opposite effects correct?
 
 Josh
 
 On May 2, 2015 2:28 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca 
 mailto:r...@sailpower.ca wrote:
 Moving the mast aft moves the centre of sail effort aft and increases weather 
 helm. Simple geometry.
 
 Rich Knowles
 Nanaimo, BC
 INDIGO LF38
 Almost sold in Halifax, NS.
 
 
 
 
 
 On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 On Apr 30, 2015 2:13 PM, N7FN--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Hi,
 
 I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast is 
 positioned.
 
 Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the mast 
 was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.
 
 The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where the 
 workers in the yard put it.
 
 Any ideas about how the boat would sail if the mast was positioned all the 
 way forward as opposed to all the way aft?  I have seen adjustments for 
 moving the mast in it's step on some sports boats.
 
 Frank Noragon
 CC 38LF, s/n 001
 Rose City Yacht Club
 Portland, Oregon 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Xantrex Echo Charger

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Edd. Curious why you are not using it…?

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
Sold in Halifax, NS.





On Apr 20, 2015, at 09:12, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Listers,

Hello, hello, hello…. 

Is there an echo in here? Well yes! I have a new Xantrex Echo Charger that I’m 
not going to use in my Enterprise re-wiring project. And, since the list has 
been such a wonderful resource in the planning of it all out as well as the 
zillion other benefits, I’m offering it up to members of the CC list like 
this: a CC-List online auction. 

Reply to the CC list with your offer (we’ll all see it and the bidding goes 
from there). After UPS Ground shipping costs and whatever PayPal fees are paid, 
I will donate the rest — all of it -- to Stu and the CC Photoalbum site. I 
will net $0. 

I will “close” the auction at 5:00pm Eastern Time on Wednesday, April 22. The 
starting bid is $15. 

Here is the item/specs: 
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Accessories/Auxiliary-Battery-Charger/Echo-charge-OwnerGuide(445-0204-01-01).pdf
 
http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Accessories/Auxiliary-Battery-Charger/Echo-charge-OwnerGuide(445-0204-01-01).pdf
 

Good luck to all. Hailing frequencies are open. On screen. 




All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


PastedGraphic-1.tiff










___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Raymarine wind mast unit. ..

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Mike and David: I am now in Nanaimo, the other end of Canada, and have no idea 
where that gear went. I gave all my stuff away to various people before we left 
on Jan 8.

Sorry!

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.


On Mar 30, 2015, at 06:43, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I had one for a Raytheon ST60 (that will indicate its age).  I may have given 
it to Rich Knowles along with the faulty display unit last year.  If Rich still 
has it it may be available.  It will require new wind cups and direction wand.
 
Mike
 
Persistence
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davidrisch75 via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 12:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine wind mast unit. ..
 
Need a mast wand for an ST 60.  Anybody have one for sale?
 
David F. Risch.
1981 40
 
Please excuse brevity and possible typos...sent from my mobile device.  
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com








___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Hmmm… When the voltage difference between a charging source and battery being 
charged is high, the amperage flow is high as well, and vice versa. 

The Operation Manual for the EchoCharge says:

When the input voltage is 13.0/25.5 volts DC or higher, echo-charge 
automatically switches ON. The LED glows a steady green. When the input voltage 
is lower than 13.0/25.5 volts, the echo-charge automatically switches OFF, and 
the LED blinks green. The output voltage of echo- charge is limited to 
14.4/28.8 volts. When it reaches 14.4/28.8 volts, the charge current will 
decrease, maintaining a float condition. The starter battery will be fully 
charged without overcharging.
No load current drain on the house bank is less than 50 milli-amps.

If the input voltage is above 14.4 volts (or 28.8), output will be limited to a 
maximum of 14.4/28.8 volts. 


My interpretation is that when the output voltage of the echo-charge reaches 
14.4 volts, it assumes the start battery is full and lowers the applied voltage 
to float level, around 13.5. This reduces the charge current and keeps the 
electrolyte in the battery where it belongs.

I suggest looking at this paper for more insight into the three stage charging 
process.   
http://xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/MS20070308_3-stage-whitepaper.pdf
 
http://xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/MS20070308_3-stage-whitepaper.pdf

In any event, I have had an Echo Charge unit on my boat since before 2000 and 
have had the same start battery since then. The house batteries, two 400 series 
Surrette batteries, finally reached end of service  after 14 years. I have 
installed echo charge units as part of rewiring the primary systems on many 
boats over the years, and, other than a couple of units that died due to water 
exposure, they all perform very well and the owners don’t have to do any 
switching at all to maintain their battery systems.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Mar 28, 2015, at 10:41, Peter Fell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

It also says when the output voltage reaches 14.4 volts, it reduces the output 
current to maintain a float condition. There’s also a curve in the owner’s 
manual that relates difference in voltage between banks to output amperage. 
When the voltage difference is low, the amperage is high and it decreases as 
the voltage difference increases.
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2015 10:26 AM
To: CC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; Rich Knowles 
mailto:r...@sailpower.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)
 
Rich,
Great explanation but don't the other combiners turn off once the starting 
battery is greater than or equals to the house?  As was pointed out to me the 
echo-charge is simply a voltage follower with a limit of 14.4v.  At least one 
relay style combiner I've seem has an adjustable high voltage shutoff.
Josh
On Mar 28, 2015 10:51 AM, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late 
 reply. Work…
  
 I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:
  
 When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated 
 combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive the 
 same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb different 
 amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery that is 
 fully charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously provided 
 excessive voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high voltage to 
 efficiently recharge it.
  
 In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for 
 just that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage to 
 the starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in 
 reasonable condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually 
 within a few minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good 
 condition should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before 
 requiring recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as 
 charging of house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose 
 electrolyte.  If this process is repeated often or long enough, the start 
 battery will eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine. 
 This situation is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and 
 multi step AC chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than 
 those produced by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage 
 chargers.
  
 Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the 
 EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated engine 
 start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough

Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft (Edd Schillay)

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I didn’t realize I’d start such a lengthy discussion. Sorry for the late reply. 
Work…

I like the EchoCharge unit for the following reasons:

When you combine batteries for charging using an automatically actuated 
combiner, or by manual switching, all the batteries combined will receive the 
same voltage at their terminals. While each battery will absorb different 
amounts of amperage depending on their state of charge, a battery that is fully 
charged will start losing electrolyte if it is continuously provided excessive 
voltage when it is combined with a battery needing high voltage to efficiently 
recharge it.

In a well designed system, the engine start battery should be reserved for just 
that and nothing else. Although it will need to deliver high amperage to the 
starter, it will do so for only a few seconds to start an engine in reasonable 
condition, and that energy can be quickly replenished, usually within a few 
minutes. An average size 27 or 24 fully charged battery in good condition 
should be capable of starting a 30 hp diesel many times before requiring 
recharging. Once recharged, the presence of excessive voltage as charging of 
house batteries continues will cause the start battery to lose electrolyte.  If 
this process is repeated often or long enough, the start battery will 
eventually lose enough fluid to be unable to start the engine. This situation 
is exacerbated by the use of smart alternator controllers and multi step AC 
chargers which cause higher charge voltages to be present than those produced 
by internally regulated alternators and simple single voltage chargers. 

Directing all charge capacity direct to the house battery, and using the 
EchoCharge or a similar device to maintain a single purposed, isolated engine 
start battery, ensures that the start battery only receives enough charge 
voltage to recharge it to full capacity. Barring a failure, there will always 
be reliable power to start the engine. Switching should be provided to enable 
emergency use of the house battery to start the engine or the engine start 
battery to provide house power.

I have also used EchoCharge units to provide charge power to windlass batteries 
installed in the bow near the windlass. That saves a stack of money for 
expensive heavy copper wires to feed the windlass from the main house battery. 
If you install an EchoCharge, make sure it is in a dry, ventilated, relatively 
cool location. It is not waterproof, the principal cause for failure I have 
seen.

Multiple output AC chargers are OK to use but should be carefully chosen and 
installed. If batteries are in parallel, only one charge leg should be 
connected to that bank. If an automatic combiner is used, only one battery 
charging source is required. For systems I design, I use a single output smart 
charger to charge the house battery and rely on devices such as the EchoCharge 
to distribute charge current as needed to start and other auxiliary batteries, 
one device for each battery. That charger is connected to the same point in the 
system as the alternator, as are any wind generators and solar panels on board.

As an aside, I’m intrigued by the discussion about installing ever larger 
battery banks. Is this based on real calculated daily need, inefficient 
charging systems or other factors? Average daily power consumption for our 
boats including refrigeration, modern nav gear, sailing instruments, lighting 
and entertainment should not exceed 150 A/hrs per 24 hour period and generally 
will be much lower. A well maintained 450 A/hr house battery bank should be 
plenty in my opinion. More than that is excessive weight that simply slows down 
the boat and extends time between longer charges.

Controversy is welcomed! 

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I have a suffering iron too. For clothes. At least, that’s how much I like it.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





On Mar 28, 2015, at 05:18, Danny Haughey via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I picked up a portable torch.  It came with a few attachments to use a 
suffering iron and different flame configurations.  It's refillable with 
butane.  Basically a big lighter on steroids.  Works great.  I can crimp a 
connector, drop a little solder on it and then heat shrink it.

Danny.


From my Android phone 


 Original message 
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: 03/28/2015 7:16 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing 


A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
 tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
 I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
 couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
 By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
 www.marinehowto.com http://www.marinehowto.com/ 
 http://www.marinehowto.com/ http://www.marinehowto.com/ - fascinating 
 reading,
 and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
 major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
 Damian Greene
 CC 34 GHOST
 Bass Harbor, Maine



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
INDIGO LF38
For sale in Halifax, NS.





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

No major problems that I can see. I’m not a big fan of battery combiners for 
charging purposes and would prefer to see a XANTREX EchoCharge unit in its 
place.

Check out 
http://xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/auxiliary-battery-charger.aspx

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo BC.
INDIGO LF38
For sale and buried in snow in Halifax, NS.


On Mar 26, 2015, at 14:30, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Listers,

Thanks for all of the advice regarding rewiring the power systems on the 
Enterprise. 

Here is link to my draft setup: 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/EnterpriseWiring-Draft.pdf
 

Very crude I know and probably could be considered a mess by any respectful 
wiring diagram standards. Still, I would appreciate listers input or just to 
say “Edd, you got it all wrong. You idiot. Get off our CC List, you amateur 
hack.”

Thanks again. This list is the most valuable part of owning my CC. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


PastedGraphic-1.tiff










___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wiring Diagram

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Hi All!

I’ve been busy moving to Vancouver Island and not keeping up with the list. 
Finally settling down here in Nanaimo and have a bit of time.

My primary electrical diagram and a writeup is at:

http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/ 
http://www.sailpower.ca/pleasure-boat-primary-wiring/

Willing to answer questions. 

Also:

A shameless note that INDIGO is still for sale back in Halifax. Had an 
acceptable offer until he found out his marina could only lift a maximum 11’9” 
beam so she’s back on the market.

Don’t forget a US dollar buys $1.27 Canadian today, Feb 1.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171 
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=1039227171


Back to sorting stuff:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


 On Jan 30, 2015, at 2:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I was looking for the same diagram...to send to Edd.  Can't seem to find the 
 drawing or the old post.  Can you post the drawing for all of us?
 
 Thanks,
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 
 On Jan 30, 2015 2:28 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Edd,
 
 I am sending you Rich Knowles diagram he sent out a year or so ago.
 
  
 
 Regards,
 
  
 
 Bill
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay via CnC-List
 Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 11:46 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Wiring Diagram
 
  
 
 Listers,
 
  
 
 One of my Spring projects is to rewire the main DC circuits. 
 Specifically, I’m looking to change from the 1/2/All system to a 
 Starting/House switch and use an echo charger for the house bank. 
 
  
 
 I know others on the list have done this. Does anyone have a 
 wiring diagram they can share? I am especially interested in how to wire in 
 the alternator, the shore-power battery charger and the solar panel. 
 
  
 
 I’m also looking to, if space permits, use a 12V battery for the 
 starter and 6 or more golf cart (6V) batteries for the house bank. 
 
  
 
 12 weeks to launch! 
 
  
 
 All the best,
 
  
 
 Edd
 
  
 
  
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 
 Starship Enterprise
 
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 
 City Island, NY 
 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
 http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/
  
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com










___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Kingston Marine Museum in danger

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

This list is provided by the CC Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226rn=428action=show_detail
___
I passed on the comments below to an old sailing buddy of mine who lives in 
Kingston simply as an FYI. He responded as follows:

As a city resident, I agree with the city hall moves so far.  Instead of 
writing to politicians, tell your friends to send money!”
 
Hmmm….

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.


On Jan 20, 2015, at 07:26, Robert Mazza via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

Hi Richard,

I'm not sure how effective it might be, but dropping a quick email to the Mayor 
and the seven councillors who voted against the motion to acquire the property 
from the Federal government  upon which the museum sits would be greatly 
appreciated. I think it is important to remind them that the Marine Museum of 
the Great Lakes at Kingston has a much broader constituency than just Kingston. 
Emails from far afield might emphasise that. The New Age of Sail exhibit, the 
founding of the Canadian Sailing Hall of Fame, and the preservation of the 
history of recreational sailing in Canada and the Great Lakes are all 
initiatives in which the Marine Museum has been involved. Just letting them 
know that the whole world is watching might be very beneficial!

Rob


Mayor Brian Paterson:   bpater...@cityofkingston.ca 
mailto:bpater...@cityofkingston.ca
Peter Stroud: pstr...@cityofkingston.ca mailto:pstr...@cityofkingston.ca
Jeff McLaren: jmcla...@cityofkingston.ca mailto:jmcla...@cityofkingston.ca
Liz Schell: lsch...@cityofkingston.ca mailto:lsch...@cityofkingston.ca
Rob Hutchinson: rhutchin...@cityofkingston.ca 
mailto:rhutchin...@cityofkingston.ca
Lisa Osanic: losa...@cityofkingston.ca mailto:losa...@cityofkingston.ca
Kevin George: kgeo...@cityofkingston.ca mailto:kgeo...@cityofkingston.ca
Ryan Boehme: rboe...@cityofkingston.ca mailto:rboe...@cityofkingston.ca

On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com 
mailto:bushma...@aol.com wrote:
Rob, is there anything we can do as an organization? Obviously, a large portion 
of us are south of the border, but we want to see the museum be successful in 
this as well as our Canadian brethren; what would you recommend?

Richard
1985 CC 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 tel:502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Robert Mazza via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com mailto:hhallgr...@icloud.com
Cc: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Mon, Jan 19, 2015 7:46 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Kingston Marine Museum in danger

Harry,

Pdfs of all drawings can be obtained from the Museum Curator, Sandrena Raymond, 
at (cura...@marmuseum.ca mailto:cura...@marmuseum.ca). Let's hope that the 
drawings will still be available for many years to come. However, all Canadians 
should drop a note to their Conservative MPs, if they want to help.

Rob

On Mon, Jan 19, 2015 at 7:30 PM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com 
mailto:hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote:
Hi Rob,
Truly a critical period in the history of the museum...wish i could write a 
huge check!  Fearing losing forever the opportunity to acquire the drawings for 
MIRAGE, i would like to initiate the process buy them.  She is a 1985 CC 
Northeast 39 built in the Bruckman yard.  Would you be able to point me in the 
right direction to get this rolling?  

Harry Hallgring
Sent from my iPad

On Jan 19, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi Jim,
 
 Thanks for letting everyone know about this. As you might know, I serve on 
 the Board of Trustees of the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston, 
 and I was the co-curator of the New Age of Sail exhibit at the Museum last 
 year, one of the high points of which was inducting George Cuthbertson and 
 Bruce Kirby into the Canadian Sailing Hall of Fame. Your attached piece by 
 Mr. Granatstein is quite accurate. The Marine Museum is facing extinction if 
 the Federal Government doesn't change its mind and hangs on to this historic 
 piece of waterfront property, or if they don't work more closely with the 
 City of Kingston to help them acquire the land. Otherwise it will be sold to 
 private developers who will evict the Museum to build more condos.  The 
 Museum does not have enough money to finance a relocation, even if a suitable 
 location was available.
 
 Yes, please write your MPs, especially the Conservative ones. This is very 
 serious stuff. The Museum holds the entire CC Collection of drawings, as 
 well as drawings from German and Milne, and many other prominent Canadian 
 Naval Architects and shipbuilders.
 
 Rob Mazza
 
 
 On Mon, Jan 19, 

Stus-List Indigo is for sale.

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

After a few years of equivocating and procrastinating, I have finally decided 
to relocate.  We are moving to Nanaimo BC, the other end of Canada, and intend 
to make our home there for the foreseeable future. We plan to hit the road on 
January 8, weather permitting, for a three week or so odyssey and arrive around 
the end of January.

The sad part of this will be leaving Indigo, our LF 38 behind. It’s simply not 
practical to ship her to the west coast and the North West Passage is a bit too 
ice choked at this time of year to sail. So, she is up for sale. Details can be 
seen at: 
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-halifax/sailboat-c-c-landfall-38-a-great-christmas-present/1039227171?src=topAdSearch
 
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-halifax/sailboat-c-c-landfall-38-a-great-christmas-present/1039227171?src=topAdSearch

I’ll still be lurking and, who knows, may wind up with another CC. A good 
thing. 

Cheers to all.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.






___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

I dunno, There are not a lot of 6V golf cart batteries in space last time I 
checked.

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.

On Dec 16, 2014, at 17:45, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Counts in my book…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 16, 2014, at 2:58 PM, Leslie Paal lpaalc...@yahoo.com 
mailto:lpaalc...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Even he is not a rocket scientist; he just helped to communicate with 
 spacecraft a few million miles away, at the edge of the solar system.
 
 Leslie
 (JPL, retired)

___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com