Re: Stus-List keel bolt nut

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

My $.02 worth from someone who took a direct lightning strike year before
last.  

On my 40-2, the mast sits in a mast shoe, really a box made of 1/4"
aluminum, that has two keel bolts attached through it (one directly under
the mast itself).  I had a small 12 AWG wire that connected the mast to the
mast shoe, through tapped holes in each.  After the strike, it was clear
that the vast majority of the strike energy made it to, and through, the
keel as the bottom paint on the keel looked like a million little pock marks
blown through the paint.  I also had a couple of small holes in the rudder,
but no holes through the hull.  The 12 AWG wire was still in place and not
burned.  After stepping the mast, clearly the direct contact of the mast
with the mast shoe, directly bolted to the keel was the main conductor.  The
mast bears on the shoe with probably at least 2000 lbs of force from the
standing rigging and therefore will make quite good conduction, even if the
lightning has to jump a mil or two of paint that was originally in between.
This will be by far the path of least resistance.  Realistically, after the
mast has been in contact with the shoe and the boat sailed, there will be
contact between the mast and shoe anyway after a while. You can test this
with an ohmmeter and verify that for yourself.  The main reason I can see
for bonding the mast with a wire to the keel is as a safety measure to
ensure that under all conditions there is a path to bleed static discharge
from the mast to ground, hopefully averting a strike altogether, and
possibly help shunt energy from a nearby strike.  The point is, once
lightning strikes directly, it will go to the keel anyway if the mast sits
in a shoe bonded to the lead keel.  If this is not the case, like in the
case of a deck stepped mast,  then the largest bonding wire available
between the mast and the keel would be advisable. 

BTW nothing you do will convincingly protect your electronics from a direct
strike.  With billions of volts and tens of thousands of amps being drawn,
the field generated alone will probably fry the electronics anyway.  Add
that to the fact that you have wiring connected up the mast to lights and
probably wind instruments, it's going to go all over the electrical system
anyway.  One of the changes I made after the strike was to run all the mast
wiring connections through quick disconnect connectors at the base of the
mast that I disconnect after every sail.  I don't know that it will make a
difference, but it certainly can't hurt!

Just my $.02 worth.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C 40-2 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 



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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Matthew,

I have four of the large Merriman snatch blocks on my boat.  Over the years,
all the center shafts have failed at some point.  The little screw that hold
the holds the shaft in simply isn't up to the task.  If you want to fix it
for less than 5 bucks, get a 3/8" x 3 1/2" stainless bolt, which has 2 1/2'
of solid unthreaded shank for the roller to use as a bearing surface, and
cut off just enough of the threads with a hacksaw to accept a washer and
locknut.  If I recall, you have to drill out one of the cheek straps to
3/8", but the other strap already has that size hole.  Its not as pretty as
a the original, but it's not coming loose, and I'm guessing the snap shackle
will fail long before the shaft and cheeks.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn
C 40 TMDK



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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Reading all the threads on shaft misalignment, clearly the vertical shaft
misalignment needs to be addressed.  However, I had an experience many years
ago on Thorfinn regarding lateral strut misalignment that seemed relevant to
some of the threads.  While I had the boat in the boatyard for a bottom job,
I decided to replace what appeared to be the original shaft, coupler and
cutless bearing.  While looking at what needed to be done, I was telling an
old yard mechanic that I noticed the strut was offset about an inch to
starboard and wondered if I should replace the strut too.  The strut was/is
obviously the original from the factory.  He told me that it was probably
intentionally done that way at the factory.  He said that by offsetting it
slightly to starboard that the shaft could be pulled out the rear of the
boat, just missing the rudder, without lifting or removing the engine
assuming you can get it separated from the coupler.  Since we were going to
replace the shaft anyway, we just cut the shaft off with a Sawzall between
the coupler and the shaft log.  Anyway, the shaft came out through the shaft
log and strut, just barely missing the rudder!  If the strut had been
on-center, it would have hit the rudder.  We installed the new shaft in
reverse order and mated it to the new coupler once it was installed.

He also told me that if the prop rotates clockwise that the shaft is offset
to starboard (port, if counterclockwise) and actually serves to reduce the
lateral prop walk, particularly in reverse.  I'll take his word for that one
since I still have a little prop walk but it is much less than some boats I
have been on.

Robbie Epstein

Thorfinn
'80 C 40 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2019 12:51:18 -0500
From: Tim Rutherford 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and
Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Mike,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Mechanic says shaft to engine alignment is achievable but the issue is that,
with the strut too long, the shaft is not parallel to the log and so
dripless packing alignment is skewed.
--

Tim Rutherford

C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamam?

Tampa, FL




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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Sludge in the tank definitely has to go, but I had an interesting situation one 
time that may be relevant to the engine stopping problem.

One time while motor sailing on a starboard tack, trying to get back to port 
before a nasty squall line came in, the engine quit without warning.  I had a 
quarter of a tank of fuel, but the fuel lines had to be bled to get it started 
again.  I went through all the gyrations of fuel filter changes, looking for 
leaks, etc.  It turned out that the fuel dip tube in the tank is located close 
to the starboard side and only goes down to about an inch from the bottom of 
the tank.  With the boat heeled over at least 20 degrees on a starboard tack 
and only a quarter of a tank of fuel, with the fuel sloshing around, the end of 
the dip tube was exposed often enough for air bubbles to enter the fuel lines 
causing an air lock.  There are probably a number of elegant solutions to this 
issue, but I never let the tank get below 1/2 full now and have never had the 
problem since.  

Robbie Epstein 
C 40-2 TMDK
Thorfinn

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Dennis,

If you need it back quicker, you could send it to SECO South in St Pete,
727-536-1924.  They are a Navtec certified repair house and they usually
have the seal kits in house.  I had mine done there a couple of years ago.
I think it was a little over $300 including the seal kit.

Robbie E.

Thorfinn
C 40 TMDK
 



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Re: Stus-List 1983 c 40 std rig spreaders

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

I had the same problem on my 1980 C 40.  Zern Rigging in Pensacola, FL has a 
machine shop, and they retipped the spreader ends.  They are beefier now than 
stock, and will probably outlive the boat. He went through all the possible 
speaker tip vendors looking for something that could be readily adapted to the 
spreader tips, but it was finally clear that cutting the corroded ends off, 
machining some new parts, and welding them on was by far the most cost 
effective all around.  Especially considering the cost of new rod ends and 
hardware required to adapt to the fancy new styles.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C 40
Fort Walton Beach, FL

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 11, 2017, at 4:33 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Re: Stus-List 1983 c 40 std rig spreaders


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Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

I ordered mine directly from Kracor, and even paid for a custom length.

Robbie

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 20, 2017, at 8:48 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

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Re: Stus-List Water tank replacement

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

I can tell you for sure the tanks in my 1980 C 40 are the 5060 on page 31.  
Several years ago I ordered a special unit like the 5060 that was only 30 
inches long (so now only 20 gallons) to make room for an air conditioning unit. 
 It was a piece of cake.  It fit perfectly on the bunks and doesn't leak like 
the old one did.

Robbie
Thorfinn 1980 C 40-2 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL

Sent from my iPad
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 23:48:12 -0400
> From: "Rick Brass" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank replacement
> Message-ID: <004301d330fa$1e2980b0$5a7c8210$@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I?m guessing it is a 5064 or 5068 on page 30 of the catalog. The 5064 comes 
> in a port & starboard configuration, but 61? seems too long to me.  Jim and I 
> can measure the old tank in the morning.
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2017 8:15 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tank replacement
> 
> 
> 
> Jim ? look at the following PDF.  I?m pretty sure the tanks you need are on 
> page 11 ? the 4071 and 5139 model:
> 
> 
> 
> www.postaudio.net/webserver/Kracor_water_and_holding_tanks.pdf 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Kracor is located in Wisconsin, and as far as I know, they can still supply 
> these.
> 
> 
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 18, 2017, at 5:21 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List   > wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello everyone
> 
> Finally able how to remove the port water tank on my 38 landfall. The spray 
> in foam held it secure. No to replace it. No repair since it had a 15" crack 
> along the side.
> 
> Question...does anyone happen to have the replacement number for this tank or 
> other ideas.
> 
> Thanks for all your knowledge this list gives me. 
> 
> Jim Schwartz 
> 
> 38 landfall 
> 
> SEA YA !
> 
> washington 


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Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Chris,

A few things. First, I've never seen a switch in the negative battery leads.  
Not sure what that's all about but as long as it's set to ALL, it's probably 
not hurting anything.  

Second, you might try checking the battery charger fuses. The Truecharge has 
two 15 amp fuses under the wiring compartment plate, one for each battery.

Third, I'm guessing your battery is shot.  The date code on your batteries 
shows that your battery #1 is dated Feb 2008 and your battery #2 is dated April 
2009.  If either of them still holds a charge, you are still living on borrowed 
time.  Nine years is a very long life for flooded cels in a marine environment. 
If I were you, I'd replace them both and consider upgrading to sealed AGMs, if 
nothing else, for peace of mind.  My luck has always been that starting 
batteries only fail when it's blowing 35 knots and I'd like to get back to port!

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn, C 40 TMDK
Fort Walton Beach, FL


Sent from my iPad

> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2017 22:44:42 -0700
> From: Chris Hobson 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Wiring (Cont...)
> Message-ID: <389cf2d4-39b5-48c6-a2dd-99a86086a...@hobsonbuildsco.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback regarding the bilge re-wire on my 30-1, very 
> helpful advice really appreciate it. I?m now going down the rabbit-hole of 
> electrical and figured I?d post a few photos because maybe something is 
> glaringly obvious with my current setup and one of you can point it out. 
> 
> I discovered a secondary battery switch today for all the negative battery 
> terminals from my #2 house battery under the galley cupboard, not sure how 
> common it is to have two main battery switches like this.
> 
> Also found out, as I accidentally left the main battery switch on #1 battery 
> the other night from too much vino, it?s still dead and hasn?t recharged even 
> though I?m connected to shore power (albeit a sketchy shore power hookup) to 
> my True-charge battery charger.
> 
> Could be one of two things: battery #1 is toast might remove and do a load 
> test, or try to find if there?s a power draw somewhere down the line that 
> surpasses the 10amp charger. Surveyor thinks it?s a badly hardwired autopilot 
> and noted curious oxide on the prop, but I don?t know enough about bad 
> wiring. So anyway here are some photos of my current setup:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHd3R5NXVlNC1tRkE?usp=sharing
> 
> Photo #1: Cabin main switches - lights illuminated from lazarette being open.
> 
> Photo #2: New battery switch discovered under galley counter port-side for 
> negative terminals.
> 
> Photo #3: Truecharge 10amp Battery Charger hooked up to shore power. Neg and 
> Pos go to battery #2 and a third Pos wire goes to battery #1.
> 
> Photo #4: Truecharge wiring on batteries.
> 
> Photo #5: Wide shot of negative terminals(below) going in port-side cupboard 
> under galley counter to main battery switch #2, Pos terminals going to main 
> Cabin for battery switch #1.
> 
> The way I see it I have three options:
> 
> A: Call a marine electrician - I did this morning and he?s booked till 
> September figured I may as well just keep up the detective work
> B: Something is glaringly obvious about this setup and one of you points it 
> out
> C: Keep digging
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> C 30-1 #615
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 135, Issue 80

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

David,

I repowered with a Yanmar 3YM30 a few of years ago and still have the old
starting handle for the 3QM30, which is not compatible with the new engine.
Contact me off line and we'll figure out how to get it to you.

Robbie Epstein
C 40-2 TMDK
Thorfinn
850-803-5220


On Apr 20, 2017 3:18 PM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

Hello all...trying to source a hand starting handle for my Yanmar 3qm30 so I
may adjust my valves when the head goes back on.  Tried the net to no avail.
Perhaps one of you has an extra one hanging around for purchase (or
short-term lease)?


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

*


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Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

My 40 has a 1 1/4 inch, t track mounted on the side of the boom with a
Schaefer Jiffy reef slide/bail that slides up and down the track so you can
position the clew attachment point for multiple mainsail reef points.  The
reefing line goes through a hook that you use to select which reefing
cringle you want to use.

Robbie Epstein

1980 C 40 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 41

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Boom fittings for reefing attachments (Hoyt, Mike)
   2. Re:  Ground loop? (Ryan Doyle)
   3. Re:  Boom fittings for reefing attachments (Gary Nylander)
   4. Re:  Ground loop? (Frederick G Street)


--

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2016 12:49:10 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
Message-ID:
<169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f130...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Josh

The 2007 C that we race and the 2008 C that I sail on both are just
tied around the boom.  I think that more or less says this is still how it
is done.  Our own ancient Frers 33 also tied around a painted boom.  No wear
on paint on the two C and the wear I see on the Frers boom is not from
the reef line.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS

In the water since Monday!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2016 5:46 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments


Yeah Paul, I had considered doing that.  I also considered having a single
piece of rod drilled and tapped at the correct distance for my selected pad
eye fitting.

I'm just kinda trying to figure out what others do.  Everybody else just tie
it to the boom?

Thanks for the idea, lets keep 'em coming.

Josh
On Apr 8, 2016 1:37 AM, "Paul Baker via CnC-List"
> wrote:
You could perhaps find an eye nut that would fit onto a stopper that you
pictured instead of the knurled nut.
Cheers,
Paul.

Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2016 23:17:44 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Boom fittings for reefing attachments
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: muckl...@gmail.com

Ok guys (& gals),

I just had my boom repainted and as a result this has been a great time to
rebuild and replace all the associated pieces and parts.  The boom wasn't
made with any place to attach reefing lines.  Previously I had simply tied
them with a bowline on a bite around the boom.  It works but I'm a little
apprehensive of the aesthetics and of the possible chaffing/wear on the new
paint.  So I was toying with options.  I thought about installing pad eyes
on the top or the bottom of the boom with machine screws.  I'm not sure how
well the fasteners would handle the stress and it means drilling holes.  It
also means removing the sail pack would be an even bigger pain in the butt.
I also considered having something in the boom track kinda like a slug stop
which would allow me to install a pad eye and slide it up and down the track
to its optimal position before fully tighten the screws to lock it in place.
See the attached picture of a slug stop.  I was kinda hoping someone made
this type of thing (a pad eye anchored in a bolt rope track) but all I could
find was the harken bat-car system and it is designed to mount a track and
then have a car ride on the track.  This seems costly and adds what seems
like considerable clew height.  The clew height may be inconsequential since
the tack height is normally elevated from the boom anyway.

Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S l/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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