Stus-List Re: Winch Sealant suggestions

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

You might find grooves in the base of the winch which should be kept clear
of butyl to allow water to drain out of the body of the winch. Otherwise
water pools up to, maybe, the level of the lower gear sets.


Ed


On Wed, Apr 10, 2024, 7:21 p.m. Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the great advice folks… Butyl tape (and nothing else) it is!
> Dean
>
> BarraWind
> 1980 C 34
> Halifax NS
>
> On Apr 10, 2024, at 8:13 PM, Jeffrey A. Laman  wrote:
>
> Butyl is by far the best option. Removal of winch in future will be far
> easier. Butyl is an excellent sealant. There is no reason to overdo the
> sealing here anyway. Leaks drip down to bilge without adversely affecting
> anything.
>
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C Harmony
> Ludington, Mich
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 10, 2024 5:42:22 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dean McNeill 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Winch Sealant suggestions
>
> I mentioned a while back I was planning on replacing my old Barient
> primary winches…. well I’ve got a pair of new Harken 46 ST’s ready to go.
> I’ve removed the old winches, sealed the old holes, have starboard backing
> plates (probably overkill) and I'm ready to go.
>
> Wondering what you folks suggest for sealing under new winches, between
> winch base and fibreglass of cockpit? Old winches didn’t seem to have
> anything other than a bit of Butyl Tape around and in the bolt holes.
>
> Should I just do the same (appears to be solid fibreglass with no wood
> core at all under the winches). I’ve thought of putting some 5200 under
> bases, but I never like using that under something I may need to remove
> someday! Should I use 4200? Or something else?
>
> What says the C brain trust?
>
> Thanks, Dean
>
> BarraWind
> 1980 C 34
> Halifax NS
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
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> 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
>
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Wifi antenna at top of mast

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have a similar setup to the Ubiquity system but use the Mikrotik Groove (
not unlike the Bullet) and a Mikrotik Hap ac2 router. The router itself can
be powered over 12v and has a POE port so it powers the Groove at the same
time. They both run RouterOS and thus the management tools are a little
cryptic but certainly has the flexibility anyone might want - be it
installing a VPN or firewall - if you have the skills.

This router, with some compatible adapters, can have 4g Sim card failover.
Although there are probably better vendors if you were looking at 4g
support.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto, Ontario

On Wed., Nov. 10, 2021, 6:18 a.m. DJ via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi all,
> I think someone mentioned having an antenna at the top of the mast that
> helps pull in distant wifi signals.  Can anyone point me in the direction
> of a product that would help with picking up wifi while on the hook?
>
> Is it a 2 part system?  One to receive the signal at the top of mast
> connecting to another,  in the boat, that transmits?
>
> Danny
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navigation app for iPad with ios 9

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I still have an old iPad with an old version of iNavx installed on it. It
stopped being updated awhile ago ( after version 5.2 in 2018) and last year
the Navionics chart subscription stopped working... CHS and Noaa charts
still seemed to work but I decided to upgrade the hardware this past winter.

Ed

Toronto, Canada

On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 11:14 a.m. Danny via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi guys,  i wanted to rt and use an old iPad for backup navigating but all
> the apps are not compatible with the current IOS.
>
> Does anyone know of an app i could use on this iPad?  I don't think
> upgrading the operating system is possible
>
> Danny
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Fwd: Thru-hull removal

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I had the same problem. I eventually used a sawzall and made 3 or 4 cuts in
the walls of the thruhull from below. Then I just cracked the thruhull,
collapsing it and pulled it out.



Ed

On Sun., Apr. 11, 2021, 8:52 p.m. Juliano Franz via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hello everyone,
> I am in the process of changing the seacocks and thru-hulls on my new to
> me C
>
> Everything was seized up and I opted to grind the mushrooms out and hammer
> the thru-hulls from the outside. Everything went great until the last one
> (of course)... It is a bit different than the other two i've removed and it
> doesn't move at all!.
>
> Any suggestions on how to remove it? Photos form the inside and outside:
> https://dalu-my.sharepoint.com/:u:/g/personal/jl844105_dal_ca/EY0hyGnRu9BEpEK_sZgN1GgBvFIfKUvmMtXt7ET_ewNuZg?e=jStgny
>
> Cheers!
> Juliano
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Panel rewiring

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

You could use Wago connectors / jumpers like

https://www.wago.com/us/wire-splicing-connectors/compact-splicing-connector/p/221-415


Ed

On Mon., Feb. 15, 2021, 3:55 p.m. Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Adam
>
> Current wisdom seems to be that one can put up to 4 lugs on a screw,
> although difficult to fit.  So  options are:
>
> - put up to 4 on each screw of the terminal strip (messy but gets you 8
> connections)
>
> - stay with a terminal strip, but use several locations on it and connect
> them with terminal block jumpers (see link
> 
> )
>
> - buss bar - takes up a lot of space
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2021-02-15 4:23 p.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hello folks.
>
> As one of my many winter projects I have decided to rewire the 12 volt
> panel and add pigtails to make it easier to remove the panels by creating a
> hinged panel. I plan to run the pig tails to a terminal block.  My question
> is how to distribute the positive leads from  the leads to the various
> interior lighting wires.  I have about 4-6  different  wires from different
> areas of the  boat.  Would you suggest a terminal block with jumpers or a
> bus bar?
>
> Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Adam
> C 36
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Those ais apps work pretty well - pretty much realtime. There can be dead
spots where no shore based station is loading data on the internet. Of
course you have to have cell coverage and only other boats using a similar
app see your boat - not others using regular ais over the air.


Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 10:48 a.m. Joseph Bognar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use an App called Boat Beacon. It turns your electronic device into AIS
> . You can also see all the other vessels in your area
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
> On Aug 30, 2020, at 10:21 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts.
> iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays -
> iRegatta has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data
> there over WiFi.
>
> Ed
>
> On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the
>> laptop I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and
>> thought I would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face
>> time.  I assume it is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List AIS and IPAd...

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Lots of navigation apps will import and display ais targets on the charts.
iNavx for example. Other raw nmea apps have the radar like displays -
iRegatta has a panel like that. Of course you have to get the AIS data
there over WiFi.

Ed

On Sun., Aug. 30, 2020, 9:54 a.m. David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Enjoying the portability (and reliability Edd) of the IPad.  Without the
> laptop I have lost my AIS.   Started googling around “AISing” the IPad and
> thought I would tap into the brain trust and save me some screen face
> time.  I assume it is possible.  Or is a AIS/VHF the better route.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Barients Slipping

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

The Stu's site has a winch directory.

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/


Ed

On Thu., Aug. 6, 2020, 9:28 a.m. rockland bazemore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It's almost like I'm doing something wrong because all of my cabin top
> Barient 21-33 ST winches seem to let the line slip even with 4 wraps tucked
> snuggly into the tailer. Putting up the main and reefing is a bear. Could
> it be that all of the drums happen to have lost their grip?
> Lastly, does anyone have the service manual for these? I couldn't find it
> on the L-36 site .
> thanks all!
>
>
> --
> Rockland Bazemore
> S/V Blue Pearl
> C 37/40+
> Port Washington, NY
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar panels in ACR environment

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I'd attach it to the house battery side. That is if you have misc always-on
loads like bilge pumps on that side. You have to be sure the panels put out
something above the connect voltage of the ACR. Any panel coming with a
regulator is probably ok.

Although you will have a fuse on the battery to the bus bar you will still
require appropriate fuses for the other things connected. For example both
sides of the positive connections on the ACR.


Ed
Prime Interest LF38
Toronto

On Sun., Aug. 2, 2020, 12:21 p.m. Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> 1st, thanks to the list members for the replies re my questions on jump
> starting a battery in a house and start battery bank set-up with an ACR. I
> think I have that straight!
>
> While I think I know the answer to the following question, I am pretty
> sure that others on the list know the answer!
>
> I plan to add a small solar panel to my system to keep the batteries
> topped off while I am away from the boat. (I prefer not to have shore power
> hooked up unless I am on board.)
>
> Since the ACR will distribute the solar power to the battery that needs it
> most (or both if they are at the same state of charge), does it matter
> whether I hook up the solar power via the mppt controller to the house or
> start battery bank?
>
> My current plan is to use a Blue Seas buss bar with a 50 Amp mrbf fuse to
> the positive terminal of the house battery bank.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>
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Re: Stus-List Propane locker improvements/repair

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I don't have a similar model but I assume there are no tabs or blocking
from the locker to the hull keeping it fixed. An adhesive might have been
used under the flange which might make it difficult to impossible to
remove. Too much force might crack the locker but it should take
significant loads if you wanted to try forcing it upwards - if you can get
beneath it.

You can add a drain to the other side from inside the locker with a
hole-saw and put in another flanged thruhull like you have on the existing
side. Keep all the hose, connectors and Y's with at least a 1/2" inside
diameter.


Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto, Ontario



On Mon., Jun. 15, 2020, 6:52 p.m. Patrick Gateley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> My wife and I own a 1988 C 44' and would like to make some improvements
> to the propane locker.  As you can see from this photo
> , there is evidence of a
> fair amount of corrosion to both the terminal block that supplies the
> solenoid as well as rust stains on the bottom.  I started exploring
> separating the well from the flange and after cutting away a fair amount of
> sealant and removing all screws, it will not budge.
>
> My intent is to run a new hose from my stove directly into the locker, add
> a second drain hole because standing water accumulates on the aft side, and
> replace the existing drain fitting with a new hose & Y valve.Ideally, I
> do not want to damage the flange to remove this.  Any suggestions on how to
> break the bond between this flange and well?
>
> Photo link:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/7LQhVgmXeFWVjSE7A
>
> Thanks listers!
>
> Patrick & Kari Gateley
> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
>
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

This is in case anyone can make use of them... For the cost of shipping
they are yours to scavange parts.


Ed

On Tue., Jun. 2, 2020, 1:48 p.m. ed vanderkruk 
wrote:

> I have a couple of old surplus panels in case you want to salvage them.
> The 120v panel has individually installed lamps and the 12v panel has them
> mounted on a small circuit board.
>
> See photos in attached link.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i7ckagftaq4ady5/AADsqlqYumU84JDHiijKp205a?dl=0
>
> Ed Vanderkruk
> Prime Interest
> Toronto, Canada
>
>
> On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:57 p.m. ed vanderkruk 
> wrote:
>
>> I have an old panel at the boat locker I can check on the weekend to
>> scavange some lights.
>>
>>
>> Ed
>> Prime Interest
>> Toronto, Ontario
>>
>>
>> On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:45 p.m. ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I don't think indicator lights that old are LEDs. Try looking for non
>>> LED lights. The current draw is pretty low.
>>>
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:06 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hello all,

 Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  Circuit
 Breaker Panel 2.jpg
 

 Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg

 Shared with Dropbox

 

 The bottom one is broken.

 I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:
 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1
 

 Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?

 Thank you!

 Bruce Whitmore
 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"

 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>>>
>>>
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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have a couple of old surplus panels in case you want to salvage them. The
120v panel has individually installed lamps and the 12v panel has them
mounted on a small circuit board.

See photos in attached link.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/i7ckagftaq4ady5/AADsqlqYumU84JDHiijKp205a?dl=0

Ed Vanderkruk
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada


On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:57 p.m. ed vanderkruk 
wrote:

> I have an old panel at the boat locker I can check on the weekend to
> scavange some lights.
>
>
> Ed
> Prime Interest
> Toronto, Ontario
>
>
> On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:45 p.m. ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't think indicator lights that old are LEDs. Try looking for non LED
>> lights. The current draw is pretty low.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:06 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  Circuit
>>> Breaker Panel 2.jpg
>>> 
>>>
>>> Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg
>>>
>>> Shared with Dropbox
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> The bottom one is broken.
>>>
>>> I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:
>>> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1
>>> 
>>>
>>> Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?
>>>
>>> Thank you!
>>>
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4jZ9y_8AU00FroXuMoLYtL1bv_IcU2YWw7Tot9dkdiDzvGoJiKTUGLQhD2c0ygsp8bM$
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have an old panel at the boat locker I can check on the weekend to
scavange some lights.


Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Ontario


On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:45 p.m. ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't think indicator lights that old are LEDs. Try looking for non LED
> lights. The current draw is pretty low.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:06 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  Circuit
>> Breaker Panel 2.jpg
>> 
>>
>> Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg
>>
>> Shared with Dropbox
>>
>> 
>>
>> The bottom one is broken.
>>
>> I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:
>> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1
>> 
>>
>> Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4jZ9y_8AU00FroXuMoLYtL1bv_IcU2YWw7Tot9dkdiDzvGoJiKTUGLQhD2c0ygsp8bM$
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List iPhone Tactiqs app

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I've have installed iRegatta Pro on my iPad although use us only
occasionally. I feed it with instrument data over WiFi from a
nmea200/nmea0183 to TCP hub. iRegatta has various screens in addition to
those which are more racing specific - instrument Gui screens, AIS
radar-like screen. It also builds realtime polar charts for your boat as
you sail.


Ed
Prime Interest LF38
Toronto, Ontario

On Sun., May 10, 2020, 10:17 a.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody using the Tactiqs app for iPhone, iPad?  Do you have it working
> with your nav system WiFi?
>
> https://apps.apple.com/us/app/tactiqs/id1241415571
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 vs. 2000 Wiring Compatibility

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Generally need 5 wires of adequate gauge to handle powering the downstream
devices - if required. You can buy connectors to attach yourself to the
cable ends. You might have some electrical interference issues but the bus
can handle some transmission errors.

Ed

On Sun., Apr. 26, 2020, 5:57 p.m. Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am replacing some 0183 wiring for NMEA 2000, and I bought some 2000 end
> connectors (Maretron FA-NF-ST Mini Field Attachable Connector (Female)
> FA-NM-ST) that you can screw the terminals into. Some of this 0183 wiring
> was probably installed before the boat was completed, and It looks very
> difficult to re-wire. Does anyone know if I can just use the 0183 wiring to
> now become 2000  compatible?  In other words, is there anything lacking in
> the older wiring, like shielding, twisting, etc, that would make this not
> work?
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Dual fuel filter valve setups

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

You could check out buying only the valve from the Racor 75500MaxM. Six
ports and one handle. Might be pricey but simpler installation if you have
a couple of filters already.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto, Ontario

On Wed., Apr. 1, 2020, 8:35 p.m. Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have an additional primary filter left over from removing a generator
> that was mounted in the stern of our 1994 C 37/40+.
>
> I was thinking about re-mounting it and using it as a backup filter in the
> event the usual filter becomes clogged.  I could also use it for polishing
> with a small pump.
>
> Have any of you done this, and do you have some photos and a schematic as
> to how the valves and flow would function?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

That's where the programming part comes in ...


Ed

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 2:36 p.m. Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think you want a time counter, not a cycle counter. Any leak the pump
> cannot keep up with is only 1 cycle!
>
> Joe
>
>
> On 3/27/2020 2:33 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of
> Boats ... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects
> on/off ) for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of
> programming to get it all integrated. But then you could be on your way for
> IoT.
>
>
> Ed
>
> On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Anybody got one of these?
>>
>>
>> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>>
>>
>> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>>
>> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>>
>> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>>
>> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>>
>> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
>> rolls.  :)
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump cycle counter

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Earlier today there was a post about Raspberry Pi and the Internet Of Boats
... Tarts Sensors, as an example, has a voltage sensor ( detects on/off )
for $30 but you'd have to add in a bit more kit and a bit of programming to
get it all integrated. But then you could be on your way for IoT.


Ed

On Fri., Mar. 27, 2020, 1:51 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody got one of these?
>
>
> https://bluebgi.com/collections/prodcuts/products/advanced-bilge-control-panel
>
>
> Looks like a nice all in one bilge panel.
>
> Bit more reasonably priced than the Water Witch:
>
> https://waterwitchinc.com/product/epanel-c-series-cycle-coutner/
>
> However, the Water Witch tracks 24 hr, 7 day and 14 day cycles.
>
> Yeah, I could wire up a $10 cycle counter but that's just not how Touche'
> rolls.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak rates)

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have a couple of those Groco air switches also... Worked great for more
than 8 years so far.

I think they are just a fill switch from a washing machine ... But a fair
price in any case since they seem to have a long lifespan.



Ed

primeinter...@gmail.com
1982 Landfall
Toronto, Canada

On Sun., Mar. 15, 2020, 10:36 a.m. Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have something like this. These air pressure switches work very well and
> don’t get gummed up as float switches often do.
>
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=groco-bilge-pump-control-kit=-1|51|2856131=211405
> Andy
> Masquerade
>
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 15, 2020, at 09:54, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> As for the Water Witch, I had a similar experience (only in the opposite
> way),  The switch would get contaminated and would stay ON, generally a
> much more problematic issue.
>
> I went back to the Rule flapper float switches.  Not a perfect solution, I
> will agree.
>
> As for having a manual switch, I have two made by Rule with an
> on/off/automatic switch position and an LED light that turns on when the
> pump is running.  I really like the light, and have a story related to it:
>
> We had just gotten Astralis and were leaving the harbor to motorsail 120
> miles up to Madeira Beach.  About a mile out of the marina, I put a buddy
> at the helm to go down below and check everything.  At the helm station, I
> saw the bilge pump light lit up, and went checking only to find water
> running in under the engine, and after pulling out the large storage box
> behind the stern berth I found there was a crack in the exhaust hose as it
> exited the boat.
>
> We turned the boat around, went back to the dock and had it fixed 3 hours
> later.
>
> Had it not been for the LED on the light switch, I might not have noticed
> the pump running, and the problem could have gotten worse quickly.
>
> Food for thought,
>
> Bruce
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List line drawings?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

The marine museum in Kingston used to have an inventory in their archives.
Send them a note and they'll copy and send them to you.

Ed
Prime Interest
LF 38
primeinter...@gmail.com

On Tue., Feb. 11, 2020, 7:55 a.m. Sam kim via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
> I used to own a C Landfall 38 long time ago and have been reminiscing
> about this boat for the last few months and thought I'd build myself a half
> hull.
>
> Been searching the web for some line drawings but I could not find it.
>
> Anyone know where I can get a copy of a line drawing or somewhere where I
> can purchase it?
>
> Thank you
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder lubrication Landfall 38

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

On Prime Interest one of the set screws wasn't even tapped all the way
through to the post. In any case I had great difficulty trying to remove
that one. Eventually used a bolt removal set. The set screws were made of
some very soft metal making removal painful.

Removing the collar was a slow process. I couldn't move it without locking
a pipe wrench on it and using the wheel to turn the rudder under it a
quarter turn at a time.

I had to re-tap the set screw holes but luckily the collar is very soft
brass/bronze. I used some harder bolts rather than putting back recessed
set screws.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38
Toronto, Canada



On Tue., Nov. 5, 2019, 10:01 p.m. Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Simon — did you have any issues getting the Allen set screws loose on the
> upper collar, and getting it off?  I’m facing dropping the rudder this
> winter, and would appreciate any guidance on this.
>
> Thanks!
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:45 AM, Simon and Silvana via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have removed the rudder and would like guidance on the type of lubricant
> to use in the lower section where the rudder passes through the fibreglass
> tube.
> What is the best replacement material for the nylon (?) disc of the thrust
> bearing?
> Has anyone installed a grease fitting in the thrust bearing?
> Thanks
> Simon
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder lubrication Landfall 38

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I made up a couple of discs from Delrin for a bearing.

Ed

Prime Interest
C LF38
Toronto, Canada

On Tue., Nov. 5, 2019, 7:45 a.m. Simon and Silvana via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have removed the rudder and would like guidance on the type of lubricant
> to use in the lower section where the rudder passes through the fibreglass
> tube.
> What is the best replacement material for the nylon (?) disc of the thrust
> bearing?
> Has anyone installed a grease fitting in the thrust bearing?
> Thanks
> Simon
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Used Nexus Instruments

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have a full set of Nexus Classic just replaced with B Wind transducer
is not working. Speed was a bit wonky but think the paddle wheel was
sticky. Classic computer.

Autonav autopilot computer and head.

Nexus ferro compass.

Including a new-in-box spare depth transducer.

Ed Vanderkruk

Toronto, Ontario

On Tue., Jun. 4, 2019, 11:13 a.m. Rod Stright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anyone out there have any used Nexus instruments they have replaced and no
> longer need that could be used for spares for a good working system.  You
> can pm me at strig...@eastlink.ca to avoid bothering others on the site.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Rod
>
> Halifax
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com 
>
> <#m_-2597841044679731951_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Fan belts....

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

For the last number of years I've been using Dayco Gold Label Top Cog
belts. Size 17405 on my 3GMF with a Balmar 80A alternator.

Easily lasting all season although I usually change out annually no matter
the condition.

Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada
1982 LF38

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018, 12:08 PM David via CnC-List  Duralast.  Probably crap.  Trying to find the saw tooth version of same
> dimensions.  Which brand are you using?
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Len
> Mitchell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM
> *To:* CNC List
> *Cc:* Len Mitchell
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fan belts
>
> David, what belt are you using? I do not have the same configuration as
> you but changed from solid belts to the saw tooth style and my belts last
> at least twice as long. They seem to shed the heat better.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

You have a keyway in the shaft and transmission coupling?

Ed

On Wed, May 23, 2018, 3:14 PM ed vanderkruk, 
wrote:

> When you say coupling bolts ... the bolts mounting the transmission to the
> bell housing?
>
> Anyone check the transmission?
>
>
> Ed
>
> Prime Interest
> 1982 LF38
> Toronto
>
> On Wed, May 23, 2018, 2:49 PM detroito91 via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
>> The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of
>> power.
>> Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
>> The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed
>> and checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and
>> rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4
>> years ago (<200 hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and
>> found okay.
>> I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and
>> corrections. HELP
>> Losing confidence in boat.
>> Thanks
>> Jim schwartz
>> SEA YA I
>> 38 LF
>> Washington nc
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

When you say coupling bolts ... the bolts mounting the transmission to the
bell housing?

Anyone check the transmission?


Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38
Toronto

On Wed, May 23, 2018, 2:49 PM detroito91 via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
> The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of
> power.
> Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
> The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed
> and checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and
> rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4
> years ago (<200 hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and
> found okay.
> I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and corrections.
> HELP
> Losing confidence in boat.
> Thanks
> Jim schwartz
> SEA YA I
> 38 LF
> Washington nc
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have the original bill of sale from one of the last Landfalls ( LF38 hull
229 ) commissioned out of Niagara on the Lake in 1982. I believe all-in it
was close to 100k Canadian ... but would have to check the builders file on
the boat.



Ed

On Feb 15, 2018 5:32 PM, "John Christopher via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can check out this website to compare dollars then to now.
>
> I calculated 32K (Guess) in 1979 and it calculated 109634.44 in 2017
> taking inflation into account.
>
> https://westegg.com/inflation/
>
>
> John
> - LF 38, 1983, #155
>
>
>
> On Feb 15, 2018, at 4:58 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
> wrote:
>
> I think the original owners of Coquina paid $24K to buy here new in 1973
> and we paid $35K in 1977. We paid $34K for our house in 1969, so I grew up
> thinking boat>house was a normal state of affairs.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 15, 2018 3:23 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price
>
>
>
> Paul,
>
>
>
> Doesn't answer your post but below is a link to Touche's original 1971
> order from the yacht broker to Hinterhoeller.  Shows a base price of
> $18,760 with $872 worth of options.  A Landfall 10 years later would have
> been a wee bit more.
>
>
>
> Interesting note on Page 2, Item 81.  "DO NOT install genoa sheet winches
> or cleats."  Never have figured that one out.
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1y6lBr8452ciJtkdrVQ2OLIKTbJAuFgb5
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 11:15 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I was asked a question about the Landfall 38 original list price, and  I
> realized I had no clue.   Does anyone know what they were original going
> for in 1981 or thereabouts?
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
>
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
>
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
>
> ___
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Mast wiring - VHF cable

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Most will perform similarly with the relatively short runs in a sailboat
but I like using LMR400 Ultraflex ... a bit thicker and stiffer than most
typical VHF cables so check that it won't be too much of a bother to run it
from the radio to the top of the mast.

If you are near Toronto I have some extra for sale.

Ed
Prime Interest
1982 LF38

Toronto, Canada


On Dec 9, 2016 9:36 PM, "Bob Hickson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I need to pull a new VHF wire up my mast in the spring. I see that there
> are 4 different types of Coaxial cable. Any suggestions which is best for a
> 60 foot run from the radio to the top  of the mast?
>
>
>
> Bob Hickson, P. ENG.,
> Sent from Samsung Mobile
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List AIS VHF

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I think you can have a dedicated AIS antenna if it is at least 3m from the
water line.

Ed

On Oct 12, 2016 4:56 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> ISAF requires that the AIS be connected to a masthead antenna.
>
> So you would still need a splitter.
>
> Joel
>
> On Wednesday, October 12, 2016, G Collins via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The Panbo review
>> 
>> talks about that, Ben's conclusion seems to be that the difficulty in
>> getting thru certifying a combo VHF and AIS transponder is daunting enough,
>> adding a VHF splitter to that would make the challenge too much.
>>
>> But you can still add a splitter on your own...
>>
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11
>>
>> On 2016-10-12 10:59 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> L
>>
>> That is 99% of the reason I wanted the combined unit. I wanted to use the
>> masthead antenna for both.
>>
>> Dang!
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Frederick
>> G Street via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 12, 2016 09:49
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Frederick G Street 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List AIS VHF
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi, Mike — no, I highly doubt there will be any kind of upgrade path to
>> allow the GX2200 to transmit.  That takes a bunch more electronics, and
>> also a lot of FCC certification.  If you look at the new VHF/AIS
>> transceiver, it’s *actually got TWO antenna connections* on the back;
>> one for VHF and one for AIS.  That would be tough to add to the GX2200…
>> :^)
>>
>>
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 12, 2016, at 8:26 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Fred
>>
>>
>>
>> We currently have the GX2200 which has AIS receive only.  Is there any
>> indication that this can be modified to transmit AIS information as well?
>>
>>
>>
>> We would very much like the ships to know where we are
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List Looking for oil recommendation for 2GM20F

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I generally use Canadian Tire brand 15W40 ... or W30 ... I do an oil change
twice a year. Either before or after our summer vacation and before haulout
which begins this weekend.

Ed
QCYC
Toronto,  Ontario

On Oct 12, 2016 12:18 PM, "doug.welch--- via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Lots of different recommendations found via Google but favoring rotella t
15W40.

What do you folks use?


Located on Toronto and hauling out in 3 weeks


Cheers,
Doug
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android


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Re: Stus-List Nexus multi instrument

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

You might try comnavmarine.com .. I got a spare original series NX depth
transducer they were clearing out a number of years ago. Still a spare ...
they old stuff still working.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto

On Oct 2, 2016 4:31 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Do any of you have or know of an early Nexus Multi instrument? One of mine
decided to freeze on depth ignoring all else. Would like to replace it.
Gary Nylander
gnylan...@atlanticbb.net




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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

We have hull #229 built in Niagara on the Lake.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38
Toronto

On Aug 16, 2016 9:48 PM, "John Sandford via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am a new (18 months), owner of an older C, which I am 'rebuilding' to a
> certain extent, based on my priorities.
> Complete rebuild of the Mast/standing rig, and underwater for now.
> Certainly not to the level of Wally/Fred/Bob, but I am happy with the plan,
> and results,(and budget).
> Understand that there were only a small number of the LF38 built. (I read
> <>250)
> Does anyone on the site have a tracker of which ones are still active, with
> simple details like, builder, layouts etc.?
> See that Bob's is 230, mine is 234, Wallys ?? Paul E ?? Fred ?
>
> And I would do up a rebuild blog, if anyone might be interested, but I have
> no clue how to start one.
>
> I have a few pictures though.
>
> Great forum and a great resource for me.
>
> Thanks
> John
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Are the photos while underway or at the dock? If at rest you might want to
check the shroud and stay tension as you might be deforming the hull and
lifting the deck even before bashing to windward. That being said even our
38 Landfall will flex but only noticeable at the forward bulkhead where
neither top nor bottom are tabbed near the doorway.

Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto
On Jun 27, 2016 9:02 PM, "Andrew Means via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> This is good to hear! One other spot we noticed was where the top of the
> engine compartment meets the bottom of the cockpit. Creaking happened there
> when we were headed upwind as well. Is this another area with “natural”
> flex for others?
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
>
> On June 27, 2016 at 5:54:22 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List (
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com) wrote:
>
> Hi Andrew
>
>
>
> As near as we can tell, the upper bulkhead is not bonded to the deck – and
> for a reason.  C’s do flex a bit as they sail – especially as they bash
> to windward.  The lack of this bond allows this flex to happen – all well
> and good as the stresses are dispersed throughout the entire hull.  That
> said, the flex is moderated / controlled by a stainless “T” tang that is
> attached by bolts through the deck and also through the bulkhead.  Ours was
> leaking a bit which we fixed by rebedding in butyl.  Your photos seem to
> show a glue used to affix the head liner (not the deck) to the bulkhead has
> failed but do not think it is of great concern as was not structural in the
> first place.  Overall, a noteworthy observation of minimal consequence so
> go sailing and have some fun
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew
> Means via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2016 5:15 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Means
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bulkheads separated from cabin top (C 34)
>
>
>
> Hey all -
>
>
>
> Last week while S.V. Safari was bashing upwind offshore en route to Tofino
> BC I noticed that the forward bulkheads were creaking. Upon closer
> inspection I realized that they had separated entirely from the cabin top
> by moving inboard about 1.5cm.
>
>
>
> Here’s the port bulkhead: http://imgur.com/Meqa58I
>
> And here’s the starboard: http://imgur.com/MIZHoiG
>
>
>
> The ends of both bulkheads are prevented from moving farther inward by the
> termination of the slots in the fiberglass ceiling that they’re nested in.
> You can see in the photos that they were at one point glued in.
>
>
>
> The bottoms of the bulkheads seem to be very well fiberglassed in to the
> hull, and there’s no sign of breakage along the lower parts. The bulkheads
> that form the forward walls of the hanging locker and bathroom are also
> separated too, by what looks like the same amount.
>
>
>
> Looking at previous photos it looks like they’ve been like this since
> before we bought the boat. They’re not loose at all, they seem very well
> set in place.
>
>
>
> Questions:
>
> 1. Is this a common problem?
>
> 2. How in the world would we fix this?
>
> 3. How critical is it to fix this immediately? Were we courting disaster
> to push the boat hard offshore?
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
>
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
>  ___
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Stus-List Symmetrical spinnaker for sale - Toronto

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have a older 46+ ft luff spinnaker for sale here in Toronto. $425.
Suitable for 35-38ft boat. From PO so has to be 12+ years. No patches that
I notice and seems only tape around the corners has been restitched. Some
yellowing of the corner reinforcement and of the launching bag. Triradial
red/white. I have  photos of us under sail.

On the Island but could bring into the city.

Ed Vanderkruk
primeintet...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

It reduces the arcing in the switch by reducing the amperage for a small
solenoid compared to the starter. Adds life to the switch. You can have
larger gauge wire switched at the solenoid to the starter and modest size
to the switch.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto,  Ontario
On Jun 11, 2016 8:37 AM, "Dave via CnC-List"  wrote:

Josh,

What's the advantage of adding an auxiliary solenoid to the starting
circuit?

Dave J
Saltaire
C 35Mk3
Bristol, RI
--
*From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
*To: *"C List" 
*Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
*Sent: *Monday, June 6, 2016 8:20:33 AM

*Subject: *Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar.  Its
pretty generic, maybe it will help.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
> to get done.
>
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
> turning the key.
>
>
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
> the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
>
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
> clean contact but no effect.
>
>
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
> well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>
>
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>
>
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition
> key - maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
>
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to
> spin the starter/solenoid directly?
>
>
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
>
> Mark
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Search for 'stud to post conversion ' at elecdirect.com in mississauga.
They'll ship it same day. I buy from them quite often.

Ed
On May 25, 2016 9:39 AM, "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand
> and gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit
> the trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go.
>
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them
> was stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while
> I stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me.
>
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin
> foil around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm
> willing to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent
> thing but I would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such
> a thing. I'm all ears though I want this done with.
>
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I
> could find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in
> and of itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so
> it'll be 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't
> stomach that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a
> pair.
>
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
>
> Again, this is what I am after:
>
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
>
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dry ice in ice box? 1988 C MK II 30"

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Very bad idea inside a boat. As it sublimates it will replace the oxygen in
the lowest parts of the boat ... i.e. the living area.

Ed

QCYC Toronto
On May 4, 2016 2:29 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Will the ice box handle dry ice? I know that for everyday cooler that you
> take to the beach they're not designed for the extra low temperature of dry
> ice.
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge hose

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I choose the extra heavy duty hose - #147 in your link. A very thick and
substantial hose with a smooth outer wall which I prefer.  It doesn't have
great flexibility or tight bending radius if you needed that for
installation.

Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada
On Mar 2, 2016 1:28 PM, "Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The hose I was considering was Trident VAC HD bilge and live well hose #144
> http://tridentmarine.com/product-category/hose/bilge-live-well-drain/
> Don't like the idea of the corrugated hose at all. Is there better hose
> for this application?
>
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

We have two T12 136ah  ( slightly larger and heavier than a group 27 )
Rolls house batteries which are now in their 12th year of service.  I was
thinking they were near their end of life but a battery equalization last
year seems to have given them a new lease on life. We replaced a Rolls
starting battery after 11 years.

Ed
1982 LF38
On Feb 27, 2016 1:20 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries
> of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian
> Tire 22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery
> box).
>
> My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and
> upgrade the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery
> boxes (I have seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on
> exposed 12v battery terminals can go very bad).
>
> The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20
> Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising
> equipment company e-meter.
>
> My questions are
> 1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
> 2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than
> average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ?
> Thoughts?
> 3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Toronto Boat Show

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

We were manning a booth on Saturday and a quick tour of the sail boat
section was pretty sad. 8 boats with the biggest being the Hanse 41. Didn't
even bother going aboard any. I think the footprint is half of last year.

The electronics and other stuff is pretty much the same as other years with
major vendors and local chandlery still there. Although fewer sail lofts
represented.

I'll be using my exhibitor pass to visit Friday again ... but not sure why.

Ed
On Jan 13, 2016 3:21 PM, "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy New Year guys!
>
> Last minute request:
>
> I'm in Toronto 'till Friday with some free time in the evening today and
> tomorrow.  Is it worth going to the boat show to see good sailing stuff or
> is it mostly power boat related?
>
> I'm open to meet for drinks too :-)
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
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Stus-List C 44 Custon

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-buy-sell-other/cambridge/44-c-c-custom/1103688809

Not sure if this has been posted here already. Seems to be in Toronto but I
don't know this boat.

45k Canadian $ ... 32k US?

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Lexan hychcovers in GTA

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

At the Toronto boat show Ontario Plastic Fabricators www.ontarioplastics.ca
had a booth. Located in east end Toronto. They have Lexan listed on their
handout ... colours and smokes  25% premium on the listed cost.

No affiliation and have not purchased from them previously.

Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto
On Jan 8, 2016 11:26 AM, "W7218 via CnC-List"  wrote:

> Good Morning
>
> I need to replace the Lexan/plexiglass companionway cover on a C 32.
> Can anyone recommend a source in the Western Toronto to Hamilton area for
> getting this stuff and having it cut to size?  I have tried Oakville glass
> but they only have the clear material.  I need something called "bronzed".
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Technically vapors are an issue. All battery types - wet/sealed/gel/AGM -
are subject to ABYC venting guidelines. There are some solutions - venting
the battery enclosure or having vented caps for wet cell directed overboard
somehow.

Ed
On Nov 19, 2015 12:50 PM, "Robert Boyer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I DO use AGMs--so, vapors are not an issue.  I have some space just
> forward of the mast under the settee but close to the boat's centerline
> that might work for battery storage--I have to check out the dimensions but
> this would remove weight aft and add it close to the center of gravity.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
> On Nov 19, 2015, at 11:54 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> as you said, the current from the house batteries should never be high, so
> the wires should not be an issue. However, if you calculate your load at 30
> A and select appropriate gauge of the wire (for distance), make sure that
> you install an appropriate fuse (probably not larger than 50 A) (I would do
> it right on the terminal, but ABYC says, within 6 or 7 in from the
> terminal) to protect that wire. Such fuse would probably allow for one
> quick start of the motor (it would not allow for cranking a cranky motor).
> But if you want to be able to use your house batteries for cranking, you
> have to allow for at least 80 – 100 A in that cable (i.e. appropriate
> gauge). Keep in mind that if you install bigger cable, your voltage loss
> would be less, so you would have more energy available to you lights and
> instruments (instead of heating the cabin).
>
> One other thought. I am not sure if putting batteries under the V-berth is
> the best idea. As much as you could, you should avoid placing heavy objects
> far away from the centre of gravity. In heavy weather the heavy bow would
> be your enemy, not a friend.
>
> And finally, at least theoretically, you should not install the normal
> lead-acid batteries in the cabin (where they are not vented directly
> outside). If you want to install batteries below, you should use the gel or
> AGM batteries. This, in turn, leads to a more complex charging system
> (especially, if you are going to use AGMs).
>
> just a few ideas to consider
>
> Marek
> 1994 C270, “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
> *From:* Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 19, 2015 11:24 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Boyer 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Changing weight distribution in Landfall 38
>
> I am equipping my boat for 8 months per year of cruising in the Bahamas.
> I have added a 19-gallon auxiliary diesel tank where my holding tank was
> located (under the navigation seat) which adds weight aft.  I currently
> have 4 group 27 batteries which will be eventually upgraded to Group
> 31's--these also are located aft.
>
> I have been considering moving 2 or 3 batteries from the aft cockpit
> locker to some dead space under the v-berth.  This would take some weight
> from the aft and add it forward.  (My boat currently sits about 2" high at
> the bow and maybe 1 inch low at the stern with no one aboard but full fuel
> tanks.)
>
> I could configure the batteries such that the new forward bank could be
> the house bank and the starting bank (which I could probably reduce to 1 or
> 2 batteries) could remain aft.  My problem is sizing the cables that would
> run from the forward batteries to the aft controls.  As I see it, these
> cables would never carry more than 30 amps (maximum charging from my solar
> panels) unless I needed them for starting (in the event of a dead starting
> battery).
>
> Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on this matter?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vents

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

ABYC and USCG requirements say that fuel exiting the fuel fill at 5 gpm for
5  seconds cannot enter the cockpit while in its static floating position.
So it depends on the slope of the coaming. If it doesn't slope outwards
most likely some would spill into to cockpit.

There are requirements for separation of fuel vent and other hull openings
of 15 inches but that it likely not difficult to comply with.

Ed
On Oct 29, 2015 3:57 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I suspect many of boats experiencing water ingress through the fuel vent
> have a similar configuration.  That is, the fill fitting in the deck and
> the fuel vent in the hull side just under the toe/rub rail.
>
> My 35-1 is different.  The fuel fill is not in the deck.  The fuel fill
> fitting is well aft in the top of the port side cockpit coaming.  The fuel
> vent is also well aft exiting the side of the cockpit coaming a few inches
> above the deck.  For water to get into the fuel vent the deck of the boat
> at the stern would have to be awash 2-4 inches deep.  I have never ever
> seen water higher than a couple feet below the taffrail atop the transom.
> If water was anywhere close to entering the fuel vent I think I would be
> concerned about a lot more than water in the fuel.  :)
>
> Would it be smart?  Possible?  ABYC compliant? to move a deck mounted fuel
> fill up to the top of the cockpit coaming and move the vent to the side of
> the coaming like my 35-1 and reduce the potential for water ingress?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel vent option

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I think that product only removes water vapor ... a silica(?) desicccant in
a cannister ... an inrush of water would pass through it.

Ed
On Oct 29, 2015 2:26 PM, "TOM VINCENT via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> There is a product on the market that solves the fuel vent line from
> taking on water, it is the H2Out Systems. It is worth a look to check it
> out.
> I am not associated with the company in any way.
>
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 36' cb
> Chesapeake City, MD
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Although there are other practical reasons to have two devices I don't
think the power source of the receptacles applies. Even if the two power
circuits have a selector switch the ground / earth conductor in not
switched and almost certainly common across both on the boat. Thus your
boat bridges the ground circuit of the two incoming power receptacles but
they would likely share a common ground at or near the dock in any case. As
the isolator is in-line of the grounding conductor one properly sized
device could, where installation is practical, handle both power
receptacles.

Ed
On Oct 27, 2015 9:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Joel,
>
> I have the Newmar GI-30 on Touche'.
>
> I recently installed two GI-30's on an IP35 with separate 30 amp shore
> power inlets.  Did some research on combining the two shore power circuits
> on one isolator and, in the end, decided it best the isolate each.  Part of
> the logic is you have no gaurantee that two 30 amp receptacles at a marina
> will be wired from the same source.
>
> Dennis C.
> On Oct 27, 2015 12:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one
>> can handle both.
>>
>> I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is off
>> the menu!
>>
>> Joel
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My Quicksilver and this one  (
>>> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=1118395)
>>> have the ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear
>>> to meet this standard.
>>>
>>> Joe
>>>
>>> Coquina
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ed
>>> vanderkruk via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 27, 2015 1:20 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* ed vanderkruk
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.
>>>
>>> It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc
>>> consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you
>>> problems.
>>>
>>> Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore
>>> power.
>>>
>>> The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe'
>>> model as the others in the same catalog category. Which is why they mention
>>> a remote monitor being required.
>>>
>>> Ed
>>>
>>> On Oct 27, 2015 12:48 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone use one of these:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=605562
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Does it slow/stop electrolysis?  Most of the boats on my dock are
>>> plugged in, and I go through a zinc or two a year.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will an isolater do anything besides lighten my wallet?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I did qualify the statement indicating it should be properly sized. A
single 60 amp isolator is cheaper than two 30 amp ones.

Although pricey the 'fail safe' style of isolator do not require remote
monitors.

I suppose if you didn't care about regulations or certification you might
choose to install one without fail safe and without the monitor; or go down
the DIY route.

Ed
On Oct 28, 2015 12:25 PM, "S Thomas via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Ed,
>What you say is true from the perspective of having effective
> galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to
> mind. In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the
> boat must be interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there
> are two shore power receptacles then both of them would have to have their
> wiring grounds taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution
> panel(s). From an engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to
> have enough capacity to reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on
> fire, but most electrical codes require that they have the same capacity as
> the main conductors. In other words, if you care about regulations and some
> people on this list have indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator
> would most likely have to have at least the current capacity of the sum of
> both shore power receptacles.
> According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that
> a friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an
> (optional and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator
> light to be ABYC compliant. I was shocked at the price tag on the
> commercial units. The prices are grossly out of line with what they
> actually contain.
>If you don't care about the light and just want something that works,
> then a big enough bridge rectifier, 30 amps for example, with the DC
> terminals connected together will work fine and cost a lot less than
> something that says "marine" on it. The voltage rating of the rectifier
> does not matter, just the current rating. It will provide about 1.2 volts
> of isolation from the mains ground.
>
> Steve Thomas
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> - Original Message -
>
> *From:* ed vanderkruk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* ed vanderkruk <primeinter...@gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 28, 2015 11:28
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
>
> Although there are other practical reasons to have two devices I don't
> think the power source of the receptacles applies. Even if the two power
> circuits have a selector switch the ground / earth conductor in not
> switched and almost certainly common across both on the boat. Thus your
> boat bridges the ground circuit of the two incoming power receptacles but
> they would likely share a common ground at or near the dock in any case. As
> the isolator is in-line of the grounding conductor one properly sized
> device could, where installation is practical, handle both power
> receptacles.
>
> Ed
> On Oct 27, 2015 9:31 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> I have the Newmar GI-30 on Touche'.
>>
>> I recently installed two GI-30's on an IP35 with separate 30 amp shore
>> power inlets.  Did some research on combining the two shore power circuits
>> on one isolator and, in the end, decided it best the isolate each.  Part of
>> the logic is you have no gaurantee that two 30 amp receptacles at a marina
>> will be wired from the same source.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> On Oct 27, 2015 12:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one
>>> can handle both.
>>>
>>> I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is
>>> off the menu!
>>>
>>> Joel
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> My Quicksilver and this one  (
>>>> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=1118395)
>>>> have the ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear
>>>> to meet this standard.
>>>>
>>>> Joe
>>>>
>>>> Coquina
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ed
>>>> vanderkruk via CnC-List
>>&g

Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.

It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc
consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you
problems.

Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore power.

The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe' model
as the others in the same catalog category. Which is why they mention a
remote monitor being required.

Ed
On Oct 27, 2015 12:48 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Does anyone use one of these:
>
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=605562
>
> Does it slow/stop electrolysis?  Most of the boats on my dock are plugged
> in, and I go through a zinc or two a year.
>
> Will an isolater do anything besides lighten my wallet?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Without the remote monitor the 'cheap one' does not conform to ABYC
standards.

Ed
On Oct 27, 2015 1:47 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> And I have 2 30 amp circuits (although I only use one) and the cheap one
> can handle both.
>
> I don't mind the neighbors eating my zinc, it is the Max-Prop that is off
> the menu!
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, Oct 27, 2015 at 1:39 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My Quicksilver and this one  (
>> http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=1118395) have
>> the ABYC required failsafe capacitors. The cheap one does not appear to
>> meet this standard.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> Coquina
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ed
>> vanderkruk via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 27, 2015 1:20 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* ed vanderkruk
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
>>
>>
>>
>> I put one in when I refurbished my A/C electrical side.
>>
>> It isolates you from your neighbors which might slow down the zinc
>> consumption ... unless of course it is issues on your own boat causing you
>> problems.
>>
>> Many surveyors would recommend one if you are in a marina with shore
>> power.
>>
>> The particular one you have listed doesn't seem to be a 'fail safe' model
>> as the others in the same catalog category. Which is why they mention a
>> remote monitor being required.
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> On Oct 27, 2015 12:48 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone use one of these:
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290032=605562
>>
>>
>>
>> Does it slow/stop electrolysis?  Most of the boats on my dock are plugged
>> in, and I go through a zinc or two a year.
>>
>>
>>
>> Will an isolater do anything besides lighten my wallet?
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bermuda1-2 lessons learned

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

David ... sounded like quite the adventure.

For (3) an owner of a C 115 added a seacock to the exhaust hose before
heading  to the Mediterranean ... better remember to open it before (
trying to ) start the engine and a bit inconvenient to get to.

For (4) I recall a diagram of routing the vent through the base of a
stantion with some added venting high in that tubing. Complicates the
stantion base support. Not sure if that venting path is standards-compliant
but interesting.

Ed
On Oct 27, 2015 2:51 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> As I mentioned last spring as part of a question about life rafts, I had
> planned to sail  my C  solo to Bermuda and back (double handed) in
> the Bermuda1-2 race.  I did,  It was fun, it was terrifying, it was
> expensive to prepare for, and it was frustrating as I did not do well (dfl)
> in my class in part because of the high winds and seas near the gulf stream
> probably favored the  HR49 and other heavyweights in my class but mostly
> because I was climbing a steep learning curve.   Of course, a C won
> the return and did well on the way there so (in my case) it's the sailor
> not the boat.  In preparation for the next one, I need to resolve a few
> issues with the boat and a lot with the skipper.  I was putting together a
> list that I thought I would share.
>
> (1)  The autopilot has to be more than bullet proof.   I thought my below
> deck pilot was, but I was wrong, and as a result I found myself upside down
> in the cockpit locker and crawling deep underneath the cockpit floor in
> horrible conditions to tighten bolts that allowed the tiller arm to slip
> (no woodruff key or slot to put it in).  I lost a lot of time bobbing
> around with the sails down repairing the autopilot or sleeping.   The fix
> for this one is obvious but will require dismantling the quadrant and
> figuring out how to bolt the tiller arm to it.  Other issues with the
> autopilot were completely my own fault as I made changes to the electronics
> but did not have time to proof test the changes.
>
> (2) When a wave fills the cockpit and it gets flooded (and it did
> repeatedly) the engine instruments are going to get wet.  This is not good
> as the switches will (and did) fail, I am considering relocation or
> creating a waterproof cover.
>
> (3) Following seas WILL drive water up the tailpipe and into the engine.
> As a result, I sailed into St Georges harbor and up to the customs dock
> then I spent a day in Bermuda sucking water out of the engine and drying it
> out enough to get it started.   For the return trip, I put a plug in the
> exhaust pipe but the plug was washed out in the "washing machine like
> conditions" and ... we got to sail the boat into the Newport Yacht Club
> dock at 3:00 am on no sleep.  Then spend another day pumping oily water out
> of the engine.  Yeah, slow learner.
>
> (4)  The fuel tank vent on my boat is high up on the starboard side but by
> the time I got to Bermuda, the tank had a quart of water in it (which I
> siphoned out).  Good filters (a racor) helped but I need to relocate the
> vent -- the question is where?  It may not be wise but on the return trip I
> wrapped the vent with tape (which, if I had run the engine I would have
> removed)   A better solution is needed.
>
> (5)  Reefing has to be quick and easy -- I spent far too much time
> screwing up enough courage to go to the mast to reef and shake-out.  My
> current reefing system (probably original to the boat) has a winch on the
> boom which makes the first reef fine but I used all three reef points and
> releasing the last reef before pulling in the next in 35-40 kn of breeze is
> a nightmare.   I need to work on leading the lines to the cockpit.
>
> (6) A removable inner forestay and a blade foresail might be nice.  My new
> furling 130 spent a lot of time furled 50% and that really has screwed up
> the shape of my formerly new and now blown out 130.
>
> (7) The boat was reasonably dry inside (a result of hours of rebedding
> hardware) but somehow the mast collar leaked like a sieve.  The boot looks
> perfect so it has to be the where the Al collar (mast partners) meets the
> deck -- who would have thought that the one place I didn't rebed would be a
> problem!
>
> (8) Hoisting a radar reflect on a flag halyard to the spreaders seems like
> a good idea until the line breaks and you lose both.
>
> (9) The one turnbuckle that I did not wire was the port diamond stay.
> Turns out the mast will stay up without this - whew!   It is extremely
> unnerving to see a piece of wire swinging around at night in a blow.  Wire
> everything. And use lock tight on critical bolts -- my solar panel broke
> loose as a result of a bolt getting unscrewed.
>
> (10)  Fighting with a 10 foot long spinnaker pole to fly the spin gets
> really old. Luckily the wind only died down enough to fly the spinnaker at
> the end of the race but if the conditions had been more benign, I 

Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

As you begin to regulate higher amperage and voltage you can have the same
considerations as alternator regulators and smart chargers.

Battery type influencing bulk and float voltages ... can they be programmed
or adjusted on the cheapest regulator.

Do you need a way to dump to some shunt when batteries are fully charged
... usually not a problem for solar but significant for wind.

MPPT controllers converting over-voltage typical in solar to useful
amp-hours at standard voltages gives higher efficiency in good conditions
if you need it ... at a modest price premium.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38

Toronto
On Jun 2, 2015 2:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Bob,

 I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if I need
 to.

 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/











 On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you measured the
 voltage output from the solar panel?

 Bob

 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
 email: dainyr...@icloud.com
 blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
 messing about in boats.  --Kenneth Grahame

 On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Listers,

 I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel running
 to my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out there landing from
 a few bucks to over $60.

 What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough?
 http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronicsie=UTF8qid=1433271044sr=1-30keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V



 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


 PastedGraphic-1.tiff









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Re: Stus-List LF38 Mast Placement in the Step

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I have 4 spacer blocks that position the mast in the step. So I take it
that most folks have all the spacers forward of the mast? I didn't recall
how the PO had it so have split it 2 and 2 for years.

Ed

1982 Landfall 38
Prime Interest
Toronto
On Apr 30, 2015 2:40 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 More rake increases weather helm by moving the center of effort aft.

 Joel

 On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 2:15 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Moving the base forward should give more aft rake and reduce weather-helm.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 On Apr 30, 2015 2:13 PM, N7FN--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:


 Hi,

 I need to know, from you 38LF owners, where in the mast step your mast
 is positioned.

 Right now my mast is all the way aft in the step but I can see that the
 mast was positioned in the step farther forward at one time.

 The only reason that it is all the way aft is because that is where the
 workers in the yard put it.

 Any ideas about how the boat would sail if the mast was positioned all
 the way forward as opposed to all the way aft?  I have seen adjustments for
 moving the mast in it's step on some sports boats.

 Frank Noragon
 CC 38LF, s/n 001
 Rose City Yacht Club
 Portland, Oregon

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 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List WIRING PLANS

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Remember  to put a fuse in the line for your sub panel or have an
appropriate breaker on your main panel for the sub panel - but maybe you
were planning that already.

Ed
On Apr 8, 2015 8:38 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 So here are my thoughts and I'm not really an electrical guy

 My old panel resides under the traveller track just on top of the
 companionway stairs as they all did and has a combined 12VDC panel with 15
 switches and fuses and 3 AC switches and one big rotary main 1-2-all-off
 switch.

 The old household style SQUARE D incoming breaker has been
 replaced by a Blue Sea dual breaker each 30A one going to the new electric
 motor charger and the second one going to the new smart charger for the
 house bank. On the starboard side of the companionway, there was a hanging
 locker which  may have been converted at the factory or by a PO to hold a
 stereo and two VHF radios.  Above that facing the cockpit are 3 almost new
 condition WS45 instruments by STANDARD HORIZON.

 The plan is to keep it as simple as possible but to move the panel to the
 locker on the starboard side above the nav station and to have a sub panel
 (already installed) in the cockpit where the engine instruments were.

 So, for example the exterior, instrument and navigation lights would be
 switched from the cockpit as well as one bilge switch.  The engine
 installer installed a 6 position BLUE SEA switch bank that I can use for
 whatever.

 Everything else, and there is precious little, would be switched from the
 cabin panel.

 Then, as I have most areas accessible, I want to run new tinned wire to
 the lights, nav lights, pumps etc.

 Get the picture?  So what should I worry about?

 Alex Giannelia
 CC 35-II 1974 launched, to be renamed
 TORONTO, Ontario

 a...@airsensing.com


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Re: Stus-List New Wiring Diagram Draft

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

For ABYC compliance it must be failsafe or with integral / external status
monitoring for a failure.

All DIY solutions would also not comply to the 'general requirements' of
the GI ABYC section.

Now whether this is highlighted during survey and any liabilities but
noncompliance ... I leave to others.

Ed
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Re: Stus-List Corrosion in winch drum

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

Too much grease might actually contribute to winch problems - especially in
salt water environments. You have to make sure that at least the pawls are
clear excess of grease.  I've had good experience with a finger-dab or two
on the drum, similar or less on the gears and some machine oil on the
pawls. I will take apart and soak/clean the winches in Varsol every other
year or so ...

ed

1982 LF38
Toronto, Canada

On 4/1/2015 9:30 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:


 Joel:  I had the same type of winch problem last year on my port jib
sheet winch.  Once I got it apart I just thoroughly cleaned it, greased it
up good, and put it back together and its been working fine since.  Sanding
is probably not necessary...

 Bob

 Bob Boyer
 S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230

 On Apr 1, 2015, at 9:13 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 All,

 Finally got the drum off the winch with lots of PB Blaster, force, heat,
and finally, my gear/prop puller.

 There is a lot of corrosion inside the aluminum drum where the bearing
rides (went too light on the grease?).  Should I use 600 grit sandpaper to
smooth it?  Other suggestions?

 I'll be buying the big tub of winch grease this weekend!

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551 301%20541%208551





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Re: Stus-List stepping mast 38 Landfall

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I don't see why you would want to bed the base of the mast. I think letting
any water which gets inside the mast into the bilge is best. Maybe to
reduce corrosion ...

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 Landfall 38
On Mar 2, 2015 11:55 AM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Hi,


 I will be stepping my mast within the next week or two.  One of the folks
 at my marina asked if I was going to slather the bottom of the mast with
 Dolfinite.  I have never heard of this stuff before.   I looked into it and
 it looks reasonable.  What do other apply or use when stepping their mast?
   I already have the silver dollar I found under the mast back in place


 Thanks for any insight.



 -
 Paul Eugenio
 1981 CC 38 Landfall
 S/V Johanna Rose
 Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Shore power protection - ELCI's - who has installed one? Survey issue?

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I installed the ELCI breaker panel PN8102. Having such a breaker does not
remove the GFCI requirement at other outlets. These ABYC regulations apply
to new boat construction but are worthwhile upgrades.

Ed
On Nov 24, 2014 1:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 An ELCI is an electric leakage current interrupter.  Any lister installed
 one?  Essentially, they are the equivalent of a GFCI for receptacles but
 protect the whole boat.  An ELCI is installed on the shore power feed to
 the boat.  It can take the place of the main AC breaker.

 https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/ELCI_and_GFCI

 Whereas your AC receptacles may be protected by a GFCI, your other AC
 users, hot water heater, air conditioner, hard wired battery charger, etc.
 are not unless you've installed an ELCI.

 I think they may be ABYC required for new boats.  Any lister heard a
 surveyor mention one during a survey?

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List West Marine leaves Canada

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

The Dock Shoppe has (re)opened in the space vacated by Genco.

Ed
On Nov 10, 2014 1:39 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 That's a bummer .. the two marine stores I frequent, West Marine and
 Genco. Genco has already closed it's doors on Queens Quay and now when West
 Marine closes there will be nowhere to go in a pinch. Everyone else is
 quite a drive for me. What other options are there on Toronto's downtown
 waterfront???

 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto


 On Mon, Nov 10, 2014 at 1:29 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Good question.
 They never even tried in South Western Ontario.

 - Original Message -
 *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent:* Monday, November 10, 2014 1:10 PM
 *Subject:* Stus-List West Marine leaves Canada

  Wonder why?   West Marine plans exit from Canadian market
 --

 Marine retailer West Marine will close 10 stores in Canada during the
 next few years, ending its presence in the country.

 “We have some fantastic associates up in Canada. This was a very
 difficult decision for us,” West Marine CEO Matthew Hyde told analysts
 during a quarterly earnings call Oct. 23. “That said, this is all about
 ensuring that when leases come up that we’re making the right determination
 about where we invest our money.”

 The company has seven leases coming up throughout the coming year, “so
 we’re going to be in Canada for quite some time,” Hyde said.

 But the leases that were coming up “didn’t meet our minimum hurdles,” he
 said. Also, Canada faces some additional expenses. “So we will be closing
 our stores in Canada over the next few years,” Hyde said.

 With the exception of the Toronto store, where the company has the lease
 termination at the end of this year, the six additional stores will operate
 “basically through the season,” said CFO Thomas Moran.

 “As you can imagine, Canada is a pretty highly seasonal market. So that’s
 just a callout about next year.

 But beyond that, the impact on our top-line sales and on in our
 contribution and profitability is immaterial [in 2015],” Moran said.




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