Re: Stus-List GPS

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Only some tablets have cellular network capability, and if they do not, then 
they are not likely to have GPS built in either. I bought a 10 inch Samsung Tab 
2 that has LTE capability, and it does work as a chart plotter, but only as 
good as the software down loaded. Hard to find cables for the Tab 2 by the way. 
The 30 pin connector is not the same as on the I-phone-pad stuff. 

I was disappointed that a tablet with LTE connectivity could not be used as a 
cell phone. That decision by the manufacturers is marketing, and not technical. 
Yeah I know there is Skype etc., but it would be handy to make regular phone 
calls with a headset and a large screen. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL
 


 Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 
I was just poking around with an Ipad at Costco this weekend, a big one, at
least 13 inches.  This was not being sold through a Cell company.
I could not find any GPS in the settings.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

I just bought one for the 36. It is a half inch longer than the strut. 

Steve Thomas

 Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  wrote: 
Jon,

 

The “Blackfish” looks like what I used last time. I can verify the size today 
while I’m at the boat.  Yes, it’s a bit longer than needed, but it’s easy to 
shorten with a hacksaw.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jon Pratt 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 1, 2016 20:09
To: Stu 
Cc: Jon Pratt 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

 

Off the top of your head, do you know the dimensions of the cutlass bearing for 
the 35-3?

1" shaft I know. length and outside diameter is what I'm looking for. I'm 2 1/2 
hours away. Looking to save a trip. 

A friend said he would lend me his strup-pro.

jp

 

On Wed, Mar 30, 2016 at 8:37 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Erik,

 

I’ve done the cutless bearing on my boat twice.  I’ve removed the rudder both 
times.  It’s not that hard and it went quicker the second time around.  As 
others have said, removing the shaft from the coupling is usually the hardest 
part.  I had a friend that build a jig to push the shaft out.  Worked great.  
The first time I used sockets between the coupler faces to force the shaft out. 
 It was a slow painful process.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Chuck,
In my experience U.S.P.S. works best overall for shipments to Canada. The 
upfront shipping cost is often higher than for other carriers, but there is 
less added cost over and above the sales taxes, and for lower value items, 
there is usually no added cost or sales tax at all. Some vendors chose U.S.P.S. 
shipping options that are more expensive than necessary, but that is usually 
just carelessness. There are limits to what U.S.P.S. is willing to carry, but 
they will handle some pretty big packages. A fellow lister just sent me a 
complete below decks autopilot system, and years ago I got a complete radar 
system through the mail.
   I also had good experiences with FedEx for shipments where U.S.P.S. was not 
a choice, but that was some time ago, and I have no recent experience with 
them. 
Defender's web site did not give me a U.S.P.S. option for shipping to Canada 
when I placed my order last year, but perhaps they would have if I had 
telephoned.
Best,
Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
Steve,
As the US rep for a Canadian company, can you tell me what other currier 
service works better than others for shipments from the states?  It seems that 
UPS has limits to their geographic distribution and often transfers goods to 
secondary carriers  like Purolator for local deliveries.  We see this in 
freight originating in Canada as well.
I know Defender will ship via US Postal to international destinations so 
perhaps that may be a solution if it isn't a huge oversize item.
Since the Canadian dollar isn't going too far in the US, on top of all the 
various fees and brokerage costs, perhaps this is the year to throw some 
Loonies at the home town retailer and help him keep his doors open.
Which I'm sure you already do.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2016, at 8:10 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> 
> One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
> I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling 
> less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the 
> shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
> When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further $93 
> Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross border 
> shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
> I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of 
> shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from 
> the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far. 
> Most of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Defender sale

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

One note of caution for my fellow Canadians. 
I ordered a few things from Defender that were on sale last year, totalling 
less than $200 U.S., and they insisted on sending it via U.P.S. I paid the 
shipping in advance, along with the rest of the order. 
When the U.P.S. driver showed up on my front porch, he wanted a further $93 
Canadian for "brokerage" fees. U.P.S. sucks when it comes to cross border 
shipments. I refused to accept the shipment. 
I have no doubt at all that Defender is a good outfit, but their choice of 
shipping company for Canadian addresses is not. I purchase goods online from 
the States all the time and that was my worst shipping experience so far. Most 
of the bad ones have involved U.P.S.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder tangs/C 44

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

I don't believe that there is short of ripping it apart, and even then, cracks 
can be notoriously difficult to detect. Dyes and other techniques can sometimes 
detect faults, but I have not been able to find any reference to a test which 
is good enough to say for certain that no fault exists. A customer service rep 
at the Edson factory told me I should replace the chain and associated parts on 
their steering systems every 10 years because there is no way to tell if a 
crack problem exists. At least with a rudder, a single cracked weld is not 
likely to result in failure. 

This link is to an article on chloride stress corrosion cracking which delves 
into the subject in some detail. It will download a pdf file. 

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/rrpdf/rr902.pdf

It is aimed primarily at chemical process vessels and piping, but the chemistry 
and physics are the same. We are dealing with chloride ions. It includes a 
chart on the differences between common stainless steels, including 304 and 
316. Crack detection techniques and the problems associated are discussed. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


 Elizabeth McDonald via CnC-List  wrote: 
Does anyone know of a test to check the integrity of the stainless steel tangs 
attached to the rudder post, inside the rudder?

Jim McDonald
Breakaweigh 1
Saint John NB

Sent from my iPad
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 34-1 - Battery Strap Down

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

That may be the first time anyone on this list has recommended 3M 5200 for 
anything other than keel attachment! :)

Steve Thomas

 "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  wrote: 
Adhere some teak to the hull with 3M 5200.  Screw the straps into the teak.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Mar 29, 2016 at 9:03 AM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking to strap down 3 batteries (2 group 27s and 1 group 24 ) under the
> quarter berth of a 1978 C 34-1 for cruising. Looks like someone has
> screwed into the sole there before.  Not sure what I'd be screwing into and
> how long a screw to use. The sole looks like it may have been originally
> molded for 2 group 24s.  Interested to hear the list's advice.
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Hull paint pressure wash chips

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

One result of many years of barnicle build up, followed by scraping and 
aggressive pressure washing is that a number of paint "chips" were ripped out 
right down to the fibreglass or lead substrate on the 
new-to-me-but-old-and-neglected C that I am attempting to renovate. My 
intent for the time being is to remove the remaining barnacle plates, lightly 
sand the existing ablative, and replace it with more of the same. That said, I 
think it would be wise to do something about these holes, and that a few tubes 
of spot putty might do the trick. The main question I have is should I use some 
sort of primer first, and what product is likely to work? 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List List Management

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Forth!

Unique and indispensable source of knowledge and advice. 
Better level of discussion than anywhere else on line. 
Made new friends through this list as well. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
C

 "Della Barba wrote: 
Third!
Between this list and Moyer I think I have the best supported ancient boat 
anyplace ☺
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 16:08
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List List Management

Seconded.  Very valuable resource.  Thanks for everything Stu.

Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "David Miles via CnC-List" 
>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "David Miles" >
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2016 12:22:28 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List List Management

Thx Stu.
Appreciate your work and the effort you put in. I find this VERY helpful as a 
new C owner.
I the people have been great and very helpful too. Great group.

Best regards,

David Miles
Impule
1988 C



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List To foam or not to foam...

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

My sail maker sewed a piece of line into a pocket instead of using foam. His 
thinking is that the line will never collapse. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote: 
I’m going to be ordering a new furling 135% headsail for my LF38, and would 
like everyone’s input on whether or not to pay the extra $$$ for a foam luff.  
In the past, I haven’t relied much on furling, knowing that regardless of the 
foam luff (or not), a furled sail’s shape isn’t going to be ideal.

Thoughts?

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Irgarol

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

On two separate occasions in the last week, people here in Florida have told me 
that they added powdered hot pepper to their bottom paint. Seems they are 
willing to try just about anything. I don't know of any science behind it, and 
the one guy is an engineer. 

Steve Thomas
C 
On the hard
Merritt Island, FL

 Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote: 
BASF stopped producing it and said they would move production to China.
Guessing its not in production anywhere.

Joel

On Mon, Mar 14, 2016 at 11:29 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jamestown Distributers just sent out notice on this, that it is
> continuing. (the lack of Irgarol)  I also thought it was only a disruption
> for last season, but they say it is a problem this year as well, and that
> only old stock still has it.  There may be some change in the Irgarol, or
> maybe something else. Maybe they discovered it causes problems and wanted
> to get out before bad stuff happens.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Low Viscosity Epoxy

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

For what it is worth, I took a look at  the Git Rot product at West Marine last 
week and did not make a purchase. The directions say specifically that it is 
intended only to be used in a contained space, such as in a rotted balsa core, 
and is not suitable to be painted on. I forget the rest but it sounded like it 
does not make a good surface when exposed to air. 
Am I interpreting this right?

Steve Thomas
C - with lots of rotten wood
Merritt Island, FL

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List best folding prop for 30 MK1 w/ A4

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

I put a 13 X 9 Gori 2 blade on my on my Yanmar YSB12 equipped 27 MKIII and 
after 7 or 8 years of service have no regrets whatsoever. The pitch of the prop 
you select for your 30 depends very much on your engine and gearing, but in 
general you want the largest diameter prop that will still give adequate 
clearance. Larger props are more efficient, all else being equal. My engine has 
approximately 2:1 gearing and the 9 inch pitch works well and does not load the 
engine too much. If you have an Atomic 4 with no reduction gear then a slightly 
larger prop diameter with less pitch will give you a better match to your 
engine than the prop you propose. A lot of A4s were equipped with 2 blade 
Michigan wheel 12 X 6 fixed props as original equipment, but whatever prop you 
select you should pick one that will present a similar load to the engine as 
the original equipment. If you make the diameter bigger, you should make the 
pitch less, unless you want to change the torque demands on the engine. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII



 Joe at Zialater via CnC-List  wrote: 
I received the blessing from the Admiral to equip Zia with a folding prop
this season.  I have been looking at our options and the Gori 2 blade geared
prop 11.5 X 8 looks like it would do the job.

Before I pull the trigger on this,  I would like to check with the list for
opinions/experiences on brands, model etc.  

Currently we have a 2 blade fixed.

Thanks a million.

Joe
Zia
30 MK1
Annapolis



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Windows ad nauseum

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Acrylic (Plexiglass) cracks easily, but is harder and more scratch resistant 
than polycarbonate (Lexan). Stock car racers use polycarbonate for windshields 
in their short track race cars. It is the more crack and impact resistant of 
the two plastics, but more likely to cloud if you are too aggressive washing 
it. It is a trade off like everything else, but I would lean toward the Lexan 
in that application. Both of my boats have long Plexiglass side windows, and 
both have one side that is cracked vertically more or less in the middle.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  wrote: 
The 2 windows I replaced about 7 years ago with Sikka Flex and their primer
have developed a lot of cracks along the top edge.  These cracks are
leaking. I cannot recall if I used polycarbonate or cast acrylic.  Of the 2
choices which would be the better for replacement?  They are relatively
long windows that are held in only by the Sikka Flex.   This time  I plan
to use 3 M tape.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Thanks!

 Paul Baker via CnC-List  wrote: 
http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/packing-box-hoses-2

> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 19:26:21 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> 
> Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All 
> the C owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a 
> pretty wide latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty 
> good, but there is no hose more critical to the survival of the vessel and 
> mine failed. Fortunately it was a the dock that the failure occurred, and 
> while inconvenient and very expensive for an emergency haul out at this 
> particular marina, there was never any real danger either to my person or the 
> vessel. It could have been very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not 
> easy to stem the leak. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
  

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All 
the C owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a pretty 
wide latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty good, but 
there is no hose more critical to the survival of the vessel and mine failed. 
Fortunately it was a the dock that the failure occurred, and while inconvenient 
and very expensive for an emergency haul out at this particular marina, there 
was never any real danger either to my person or the vessel. It could have been 
very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not easy to stem the leak. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Contact Gori. They can supply you with replacement pins, but they need to know 
everything about the prop, and I mean everything. There were several different 
configurations of essentially the same prop. This I had from a conversation 
with them at the Miami boat show last month. I have a 13 X 9 on my 27.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


 J Roger via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C 27 MK III. The blades
are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.

TY

J


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

The correct approach in my opinion. I always figured that the whole point to 
having straight pipe threads in the first place was so that you could make 
something like a compression flange fitting in one part and then cut a regular 
tapered thread on the end. 
Makes a lot of sense for tanks, and a boat is kind of like an inside out tank. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL



 Russ & Melody via CnC-List  wrote: 

In a re-fit many years ago I looked for replacement thru-hulls.

After not having success finding a replacement I 
got a NPT cutter head for a 'Rigid' pipe 
threading machine, from the local rental shop. 
You can adjust the "bite" of the cutter so I 
started off loose and cut some taper threads by 
hand. With the replacement ball valve nearby I 
kept at it until there was the desired fit. After 
the first one the rest were easy.

So, now my C original thru-hulls, which were in good shape, are taper thread.

 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 Vancouver Island


At 08:33 PM 26/02/2016, you wrote:
>I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded 
>ball valves is a difficult task. For example, 
>every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).
>
>
>From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
>Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Cc: Rick Brass
>Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
>
>Joe;
>
>The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone 
>makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic 
>C anymore. All the ones I have seen are a 
>smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls.
>
>The good news is that you rarely need to replace 
>a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the 
>thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the 
>Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to 
>hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat 
>while you remove the old valve from the threads 
>of the existing thru hull from inside the hull. 
>(you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, 
>but it is called a plumber’s step wrench or something similar)
>
>Both my boats came with brass gate valves on 
>most of the thru hulls, instead of proper 
>seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I 
>launched into replacing the gate valves, 
>starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up 
>both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and 
>had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull 
>to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull.
>
>I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a 
>chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly – 
>a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with 
>lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Don’t 
>you love poking around in those sort of places?) 
>And the guy at the chandlery explained how you 
>are supposed to get the old valve off the thru 
>hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I 
>bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward.
>
>BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. 
>And the seacocks should be either bronze or 
>Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are 
>in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with 
>straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of 
>my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing 
>plates with a nut, so I did not have to use 
>seacocks with a flange on them. But I have 
>learned that ball valves intended for plumbing 
>come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure 
>I ordered ball valves with straight threads that 
>matched the threads on the thru hull.
>
>Rick Brass
>Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
>la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
>Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>From: CnC-List 
>[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Cc: Joel Aronson 
>Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1
>
>Try here:
>
>http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf
>
>The company is near us.
>
>Joel
>
>On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at 
>Zialater via CnC-List 
><cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my
>1975 30 MK1.
>
>They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5
>inches and a 1.25 inch hole.  I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has
>the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions.
>
>Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original
>replacement.  I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a
>non-original thru hull fit.
>
>Thanks for any ideas on this.
>
>Joe
>
>Zia - 1975 C 30 MK1
>Annapolis
>
>
>
>___
>
>Email address:
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>To change your list preferences, including 
>unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:

Re: Stus-List Items for sale

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

John,
  I am interested in the autohelm, and maybe the Furuno too. A few more 
details like which model of autohelm controller and associated equipment would 
be helpful. Please contact me off list if you would rather.  I am in the 
process of fixing up a much neglected and bare bones 36. 

Thanks, 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

 John Bousfield via CnC-List  wrote: 
Good morning Lister's,
Spring is getting close and I have some items to sell, but before I put
them on the usual sites I thought I would see if anyone in the group is
interested. These items are from fresh water never been in salt water.
1. Furuno 1621 Mk2 price $600
2. Raytheon Linear autohelm. It comes with a spare linear drive that is in
working order or can be used for parts. It comes with the wind vane
steering unit. Price $500.

John & Marjolein
dutch girl C 36
Spring Lake, MI


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Sale alert automatic inflatable harness

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

West Marine has an automatic inflatable harness on sale today only for 150 
bucks. (U.S.)

I have no experience with the product, but I just paid more than twice that 
much for a Spinlock product that is not even coast guard certified.

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Cabinet door and bulkhead veneer

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Does anyone know for certain what species the wood veneer would be on the 
cabinets and bulkheads in my 1980 C? We talk about teak wood work all the 
time on this list, and certainly the fids, hand rails, and exterior trim wood 
is teak, but the plywood veneer looks an awful lot like mahogany to me. It is 
quite red in colour, and not at all like Scandinavian mid century modern 
furniture. I need to replace quite a bit, and I want to get the right stuff. 

Steve Thomas
C 
Merritt Island, FL

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Appropriate time for this discussion and advice, since I just purchased a roll 
of the other stuff from $$ West Marine. 

Steve Thomas
C
Merritt Island, FL

 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I tried another Butyl brand besides "Bed it" and I regret it. I have since
> used "Bed it". You can find it elsewhere than Mainesail and Hamilton, but I
> found price to be about the same. I went with Mainsail.
> 
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 8:22 AM Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Thanks for the correction. I meant Hamiliton, but typed Defender!
> >
> >
> > Bill Bina
> >
> > On 2/9/2016 11:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:
> >
> > Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as
> > I can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
> > tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
> > identical product).
> >
> > I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only marine store
> > I found that sold it. I wanted only one roll and MaineSail ships min two. I
> > assumed buying through Hamilton Marine still supports him though, since
> > he's the inventor of it.
> >
> > http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2-x-50-roll-755207-/4,59595.html
> >
> > On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 7:41 AM,  wrote:
> >
> >> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Cc:
> >> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:36:50 -0500
> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> >> ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender
> >> carries or you can get it from:
> >>
> >> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> >>
> >> Bill Bina


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Made an offer on a C 35 mk2

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

I know one, who is very good if you want to know about your boat, but perhaps a 
bit over picky if it is insurance you seek. .
Email me privately if you want more details. 

Steve Thomas 
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Rino Granito via CnC-List  wrote: 
> The offer has been accepted :)  Now on for the survey.  Does anyone
> know of a good surveyor that knows the C 35 in the Port Dover ,
> Ontario area ??
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ./r
> 
> On Sun, 2016-01-31 at 15:10 -0500, Rino Granito via CnC-List wrote:
> > Hi,  Just looking to hear back from the group, on what I might expect
> > in terms of sail behavior and if she can handle some offshore stuff ?
> >   
> > 
> > Thanks..
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> > bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mystery Coolant

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

You could also try arranging some white paper towels on a cookie sheet or bits 
of plywood under the engine. Pumps are a particular candidate for suspicion in 
my opinion, especially when temperature changes appear to be a factor. 

Steve Thomas
C 
Merritt Island, FL


 Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Thanks very much.  Yes it's a fresh water-cooled A4.  Joseph, I am going to 
> check the sump near the mast step too, but based on where it's pooling I 
> think it's coming from the bilge just forward of the motor under the cabin 
> sole - the hardest spot to reach.
> 
> John, if that turns out not to be where it is coming from, I'm definitely 
> going to head to the boat at night and get out my flashlight.  Good advice!
> 
> Thanks again 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

The panels over the galley and nav station on this boat would have a curve to 
them. 
Were any of the panels on your 38 curved much? If so, how did you work that out 
with 1/4" plywood? I was thinking that 1/8" would work ok, but that 1/4" might 
have to be steamed, or slotted on the back, or something like that. 

Steve Thomas
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
> I replaced my panels with varnished African mahogany 1/4" plywood. Used 
> brass screws to hold them up. 
> Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
 
> -- Original message--From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListDate: Mon, Jan 25, 
> 2016 13:07To: CnClist;Cc: Dennis C.;Subject:Re: Stus-List 1980 C 
> Headliner Panels
> I have been trying to find that plastic at mcmaster.com for a couple years 
> now.  Earlier today I emailed them for help.  They sent me a link to a 
> plastics selector pack, (<http://www.mcmaster.com/#5331K7>) which contains 
> several different samples of plastics.  I'm not excited about paying $57 for 
> a sample pack which may or may not include what I want.
> 
> I still have some of the plastic.  I think I may send a small piece to 
> mcmaster to see if they can match it.
> 
> It's really good stuff and has lots of uses on our boats.  I've seen several 
> posts which could be answered with a link to this material.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 1:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Steve,
> Like Dennis, I used some sort of plastic sheet (4’ x 8’ x ~1/8") the was 
> similar, white with a grain/rough surface on one side and completely smooth 
> on the other. I used the textured side and did like Wally Bryant on his LF 38 
> and used SS oval screws with SS decorative washers to hold them up. 
> Semi-industrial look. It looks better because I spray-painted the interior 
> white so the matching is pretty close.
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit
> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:23 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> Steve,
> 
> I replaced the original old yellowed winch bolt access panels on Touche' with 
> plastic sheet from mcmaster.com.  It was 1/8 or so thick, smooth on one side 
> and textured on the other.  It looks very nice and was easy to cut and 
> finish.  I countersunk the fastener holes for #6 or 8 flat heads.
> 
> I have tried several times over the years to find the invoice and record the 
> stock number.  It's really nice stuff. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:22 AM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a 
> bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what 
> it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what 
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar 
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a 
bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what it 
is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what materials 
were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar boats, 
including whether or not there were options available.

Steve Thomas
C MKI
Merritt Island, FL

C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Yes.

 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> Are you talking about the cover panels that you remove to get at bolts?
> 
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> sthoma20--- via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 9:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> Subject: Stus-List 1980 C Headliner Panels
> 
> The headliner panels for my new old boat are completely missing, which is a
> bummer because the old ones would have been useful for templates. It is what
> it is, but I don't even know what the originals looked like, or what
> materials were used. I would appreciate any advice from owners of similar
> boats, including whether or not there were options available.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com