Re: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[T Sutton via CnC-List]

Glad to hear I’m not the only one!!  I only have 2 Group 31 AGM’s from CTC and 
300 W solar but haven’t had to plug into shore power since setting it up and 
that is very convenient when heading out for a day sail.  Fridge runs 24/7 but 
we don’t have heat or air and I have converted most lights to LED but we spend 
a month or so in the North Channel and no issues so far.

Tom S

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 9, 2020 7:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

There may come a time that I regret my current battery configuration but I 
haven’t regretted it for the past 5 years of cruising.  I currently have four 
Group 31 Firefly Oasis carbon foam AGM’s ($500 each) in parallel as one large 
battery bank.  I have 340 watts of flexible (Solbian) solar panels that feed 
the single large battery bank. 

I believe that battery combiners and similar devices are more likely to fail 
than my batteries.  (If I ever have a dead battery, I will isolate it and 
continue to operate with just three until I can replace it.  I think the idea 
of a separate starting battery and the notion of the need to separate batteries 
into two usable banks is outdated—it was a continuation from a time before 
reliable batteries were available.  I wouldn’t use my system with cheaper 
batteries.)

Bob (currently in Nassau with 75 degree weather!)


Bob Boyer 
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com


  On Jan 4, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:


   
  You're boat is wired wrong or you are misinterpreting the indications.  You 
are absolutely correct that the starter battery should be "spared".  Really 
what "spared" means is that it should always and only be connected to the 
engine starter.  The output of the alternator should be switched by an ACR or 
echo charge to charge the start battery only after the house batts have 
sufficient voltage. 

  In the link is a picture of a "better" way to wire a system like yours.  If 
you wanted to install the system as depicted but split the bank of 2 house 
batteries, you could re-purpose your old/existing 1-all-2 switch such that it 
separates the 2 house batts shown as a single bank.

  
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bmc_PsjKHSQKYjy4Jnhl7ZV232MoiOJ2/view?usp=drivesdk


  Josh Muckley 
  S/V Sea Hawk 
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD





  On Sat, Jan 4, 2020, 9:27 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
 wrote:

This may be obvious to most of you but came as a surprise to me.  I've got 
a 3 battery bank with 2 deep cycles and 1 starter battery.  It's got a 1 All 2  
switch.  I was testing load and was surprised to see that if you're using 1 or 
2 it's also drawing power off the starter battery too. 

Doesn't this defeat the point. Shouldn't the starter battery be completely 
spared while not running the engine.

Is there a better configuration?

Thanks in advance!

Peter

84 Landfall 35



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Re: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

There may come a time that I regret my current battery configuration but I 
haven’t regretted it for the past 5 years of cruising.  I currently have four 
Group 31 Firefly Oasis carbon foam AGM’s ($500 each) in parallel as one large 
battery bank.  I have 340 watts of flexible (Solbian) solar panels that feed 
the single large battery bank.

I believe that battery combiners and similar devices are more likely to fail 
than my batteries.  (If I ever have a dead battery, I will isolate it and 
continue to operate with just three until I can replace it.  I think the idea 
of a separate starting battery and the notion of the need to separate batteries 
into two usable banks is outdated—it was a continuation from a time before 
reliable batteries were available.  I wouldn’t use my system with cheaper 
batteries.)

Bob (currently in Nassau with 75 degree weather!)

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Jan 4, 2020, at 10:18 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> You're boat is wired wrong or you are misinterpreting the indications.  You 
> are absolutely correct that the starter battery should be "spared".  Really 
> what "spared" means is that it should always and only be connected to the 
> engine starter.  The output of the alternator should be switched by an ACR or 
> echo charge to charge the start battery only after the house batts have 
> sufficient voltage.
> 
> In the link is a picture of a "better" way to wire a system like yours.  If 
> you wanted to install the system as depicted but split the bank of 2 house 
> batteries, you could re-purpose your old/existing 1-all-2 switch such that it 
> separates the 2 house batts shown as a single bank.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bmc_PsjKHSQKYjy4Jnhl7ZV232MoiOJ2/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jan 4, 2020, 9:27 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> This may be obvious to most of you but came as a surprise to me.  I've got a 
>> 3 battery bank with 2 deep cycles and 1 starter battery.  It's got a 1 All 2 
>>  switch.  I was testing load and was surprised to see that if you're using 1 
>> or 2 it's also drawing power off the starter battery too.
>> 
>> Doesn't this defeat the point. Shouldn't the starter battery be completely 
>> spared while not running the engine.
>> 
>> Is there a better configuration?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance!
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>> 84 Landfall 35
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I keep a NOCO GB70 boost in a drawer and try not to worry about my starter 
battery!


Bill Coleman
Erie, PA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley 
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2020 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

I had a similar issue, left me in a tight spot in the mouth of the river with 
dead batteries once, replaced original 1-2-all switch with a blue sea switch 
and an ACR, found Windstar’s blog quite useful, wired mine similarly.
Brad
Pulse 
1985 C 33
Lake Huron

~Anything worth doing requires sails~
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Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

I had a similar issue, left me in a tight spot in the mouth of the river with 
dead batteries once, replaced original 1-2-all switch with a blue sea switch 
and an ACR, found Windstar’s blog quite useful, wired mine similarly.
Brad
Pulse 
1985 C 33
Lake Huron

~Anything worth doing requires sails~
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You're boat is wired wrong or you are misinterpreting the indications.  You
are absolutely correct that the starter battery should be "spared".  Really
what "spared" means is that it should always and only be connected to the
engine starter.  The output of the alternator should be switched by an ACR
or echo charge to charge the start battery only after the house batts have
sufficient voltage.

In the link is a picture of a "better" way to wire a system like yours.  If
you wanted to install the system as depicted but split the bank of 2 house
batteries, you could re-purpose your old/existing 1-all-2 switch such that
it separates the 2 house batts shown as a single bank.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bmc_PsjKHSQKYjy4Jnhl7ZV232MoiOJ2/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sat, Jan 4, 2020, 9:27 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This may be obvious to most of you but came as a surprise to me.  I've got
> a 3 battery bank with 2 deep cycles and 1 starter battery.  It's got a 1
> All 2  switch.  I was testing load and was surprised to see that if you're
> using 1 or 2 it's also drawing power off the starter battery too.
>
> Doesn't this defeat the point. Shouldn't the starter battery be completely
> spared while not running the engine.
>
> Is there a better configuration?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Peter
>
> 84 Landfall 35
>
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Battery Bank Configuration

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

This may be obvious to most of you but came as a surprise to me.  I've got a 3 
battery bank with 2 deep cycles and 1 starter battery.  It's got a 1 All 2  
switch.  I was testing load and was surprised to see that if you're using 1 or 
2 it's also drawing power off the starter battery too.
Doesn't this defeat the point. Shouldn't the starter battery be completely 
spared while not running the engine.
Is there a better configuration?
Thanks in advance!
Peter
84 Landfall 35


Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___

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