Stus-List Chainplates

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm about to start rebedding some of my deck hardware on my C 33 mkii
(1986) and have moved onto the chainplates.

Inside the boat, there is a tie rod that is connected to the hull and runs
up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The block is directly
under the chainplate; the block and plate are connected by 4 bolts that go
through the deck.

It is my understanding that the tie rod has a head that is inside the block
and that one can rotate the rod to tighten or loosen it and the head just
turns on the aluminum.

Here are my questions:

The starboard tie rod moves slightly if I really pull on it. Can I tighten
it up just by turning it?

Also, the nuts holding the block to the chainplate are not very tight.
Presumably they shouldn't be too tight or that could crush the deck. Does
anyone know how much they should be tightened? Right now they are not even
what I would call "snug".

Thanks in advance,

Mike
Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

Stus-List Chainplates

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I'm rebedding most of my deck hardware this spring and have come to my
chainplates. I have a C 33 mkii (1986). Inside the boat, a tie rod runs
from the hull up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The
chainplate is attached to the aluminum block by 4 bolts.

The starboard side tie rod has a bit of movement if I really pull on it. My
understanding is that the rod has a head on it that is free to rotate
inside the aluminum block. So I should be able to just turn the tie rod to
tighten it up a bit. Has anyone done this before? Do I need to first loosen
the nuts holding the aluminum block to the chainplate??

Second, I noticed that the nuts on both sides aren't exactly tight. How
tight should these nuts be? Presumably not too tight as that might compress
the deck too much (??).

Thanks in advance for any comments.

Mike
Atacama
Toronto

On Sun., Mar. 27, 2022, 1:05 p.m. Stu via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Spring is here and it will soon be sailing season (well for some
> people).  Don't forget to get your copy of the Spring Checklist - it is
> a lot easier than trying to remember.
>
> http://cncphotoalbum.com/Spring_Checklist.pdf
>
> Stu
>

Re: Stus-List Chainplates

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I see your boat was built in '93 and probably by then C changed methods. Good 
to know.


> On May 6, 2018 at 11:48 AM Brian Fry via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core 
> material. All solid.
> Yes the flange prevents making an easy fix, you do have to remove the 
> chainplate to get at the material to be removed. On mine, the leaks were more 
> of an issue with the bolts, not the plate. Still haven't replaced the 
> chainplates, I am having stainless ones made. Also haven't concluded which 
> material to use for sealing. I may do butyl on one side and polysulfide on 
> the other to see which holds up best.
> I will say butyl would not cause as much of an issues when removing them 
> the next time as the caulking did this time.
> 
> 
> --
> Brian Fry
> S/V La Neige
> 1993 C 37/40XL
> HdG Maryland
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Stus-List Chainplates

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
material. All solid.
Yes the flange prevents making an easy fix, you do have to remove the
chainplate to get at the material to be removed. On mine, the leaks were
more of an issue with the bolts, not the plate. Still haven't replaced the
chainplates, I am having stainless ones made. Also haven't concluded which
material to use for sealing. I may do butyl on one side and polysulfide on
the other to see which holds up best.
I will say butyl would not cause as much of an issues when removing them
the next time as the caulking did this time.


-- 
Brian Fry
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40XL
HdG Maryland
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List chainplates

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

jim watts probably good to check with.believe he had shark  before he
moved up to current ccif early built shark he will know what to look
for in your yachthinterholler sharks in early days used many different
metals for chainplateseven aluminum...let us know how it goes..
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Re: Stus-List chainplates

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Jimmy, you're paying attention. I owned two 1966 Hinterhoeller Sharks, one
of them here in salt water, plus our 29-2 (I think) and 35-3 (for sure)
came with aluminum chainplates. I'm interested to see what it looks like in
there.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 June 2015 at 12:41, jimmy kelly via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 jim watts probably good to check with.believe he had shark  before he
 moved up to current ccif early built shark he will know what to look
 for in your yachthinterholler sharks in early days used many different
 metals for chainplateseven aluminum...let us know how it goes..

 ___

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