Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
Hi Josh, Don't sweat the small stuff. It doesn't matter a wit if the cutlass bearing overhangs the strut by an 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 or is flush. Zero, nada. I would centre the difference for ascetics reason and call it a day. Interestingly I had this situation on Sweet (in the ol' days) and there was no interference in the fit. It didn't require thermal difference or a press-fit, simply relying on a set screw. To backup the set screw a simple centre punch to raise a dimple fore & aft in the exposed ends can keep it from "walking out" of the strut. Cheers, Russ Vancouver Island At 09:08 PM 7/8/2020, you wrote: Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD. Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2.  The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
Bonjour Bruno Entre Québécois je voulais dire bonjour On Thu, Jul 9, 2020 at 8:41 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Josh, > > When I replaced mine I left the excess length on the forward side to add a > tiny bit more support between the strut and the engine. Probably don't make > a difference, but a friend of mine who owned a CS36 Merlin told me it could > not be bad and maybe help to reduce vibrations. On his boat the shaft is > very long with a fair length without any support. He always add trouble > with vibrations and even broke the shaft in the Bahamas. Many variables > there I agree... > > After 5 years I don't see any premature wear to the bearing. > > From an amateur sailor. I don't think it really matters, rear or forward. > And I don't think the extra length hurts anything either. > > You should see a noticeable improvement regarding vibrations with your > drivetrain refit. > > Bruno Lachance > Bécassine, 33-2 > New-Richmond, Qc > > > Envoyé de mon iPad > > Le 9 juil. 2020 à 07:43, bwhitmore via CnC-List a > écrit : > > Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be > coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the > cutlass bearing then. Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the > survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took > about 9 months ago. So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly > after all. I have no idea what the strut is going to be like. > > All things being equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align > the forard side flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be > more likely to build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and > through the bearing. > > That's just a layman's guess though. > > Please keep us updated! > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C&C 37/40+ > "Astralis" > > > > Sent from Samsung tablet. > > > Original message > From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List > Date: 7/9/20 12:09 AM (GMT-05:00) > To: C&C List > Cc: Josh Muckley > Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement > > Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a > larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are > 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a > strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x > 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 > x 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem > with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had > the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD. > > Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he > failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is > 1/2 inch too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 > inch sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction > forward and aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm > not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get > everyone's thoughts. Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or > the other? > > Thanks, > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> OK folks, >> >> I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the >> years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and >> with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as >> well. It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a >> lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at >> least 8 years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and >> the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of >> bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch >> bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness >> (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before >> destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. >> Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old >> bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one >> and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new >> bearing (fresh
Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
Josh, My bearing is longer than the strut (work done by a credible yard). That was in 2016. I’ve had zero issues (I routinely check for play). /John > On Jul 9, 2020, at 12:08 AM, Josh Muckley wrote: > > > Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a > larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are > 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a > strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x > 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x > 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with > this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the > bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD. > > Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed > to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch > too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch > sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and > aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if > this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. > Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other? > > Thanks, > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > >> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List >> wrote: >> OK folks, >> >> I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the >> years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and >> with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well. >> It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot >> easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 >> years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the >> bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of >> bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch >> bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness >> (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before >> destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. >> Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old >> bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one >> and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new >> bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it >> slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play >> all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a >> 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the only >> next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch >> metal, 1/8th rubber). >> >> This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a >> few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. >> I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only >> to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between. >> I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out >> to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm >> running out of options. I know that the bearings can be turned down but >> that seems costly and unnecessary. I'd like a better idea. >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
Hi Josh, When I replaced mine I left the excess length on the forward side to add a tiny bit more support between the strut and the engine. Probably don't make a difference, but a friend of mine who owned a CS36 Merlin told me it could not be bad and maybe help to reduce vibrations. On his boat the shaft is very long with a fair length without any support. He always add trouble with vibrations and even broke the shaft in the Bahamas. Many variables there I agree... After 5 years I don't see any premature wear to the bearing. From an amateur sailor. I don't think it really matters, rear or forward. And I don't think the extra length hurts anything either. You should see a noticeable improvement regarding vibrations with your drivetrain refit. Bruno Lachance Bécassine, 33-2 New-Richmond, Qc Envoyé de mon iPad Le 9 juil. 2020 à 07:43, bwhitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit : Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the cutlass bearing then. Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took about 9 months ago. So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly after all. I have no idea what the strut is going to be like. All things being equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align the forard side flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be more likely to build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and through the bearing. That's just a layman's guess though. Please keep us updated! Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis" Sent from Samsung tablet. Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Date: 7/9/20 12:09 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD. Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: OK folks, I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well. It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the only next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch metal, 1/8th rubber). This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find
Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
Hi Josh, I was just checking our driveshaft numbers yesterday as I will be coming out of the watwe at the end of the month and I want to replace the cutlass bearing then. Our shift measures 1 1/4" as well according to the survey, an old worn out folding prop in my garage and a measurement I took about 9 months ago. So. I'm thinking your boat may not be such an anomaly after all. I have no idea what the strut is going to be like.All things being equal, I think I would either cut off the excess or align the forard side flush, just thinking that the blunter forward edge would be more likely to build positive water pressure, thus pushing water into and through the bearing.That's just a layman's guess though.Please keep us updated!Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet. Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Date: 7/9/20 12:09 AM (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD.Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other?Thanks,Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:OK folks, I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well. It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the only next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch metal, 1/8th rubber). This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between. I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options. I know that the bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and unnecessary. I'd like a better idea.All the best, Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
Well it seems that maybe the previous owner has replaced the shaft with a larger size. A few other 37+ owners have stated that their shafts are 1-1/8th whereas mine is 1-1/4. The original shaft would have come with a strut which would accommodate a bearing OD of 1-5/8 inch (1-1/8 x 1-5/8 x 4-1/2). The smallest bearing OD for my larger 1-1/4 shaft is 1-3/4 (1-1/4 x 1-3/4 x 5). It appears that the PO must have run into a similar problem with this combination of original strut and larger shaft and must have had the bearing turned down to 1-5/8 OD. Now for my next question. After the machinist turned the bearing, he failed to cut it to a length of 4-1/2. The result is a bearing which is 1/2 inch too long for the strut. I can split the difference and leave 1/4 inch sticking out on either side of the strut. Or some other fraction forward and aft. Currently I have about 1/8th forward and 3/8th aft. I'm not sure if this is good, bad, or indifferent and I'd like to get everyone's thoughts. Cut it off? Leave it? Move it flush on one side or the other? Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jun 8, 2020, 16:03 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > OK folks, > > I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the > years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and > with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as > well. It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a > lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at > least 8 years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and > the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of > bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch > bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness > (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before > destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. > Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old > bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one > and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new > bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it > slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play > all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a > 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the > only next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th > inch metal, 1/8th rubber). > > This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem > a few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find the old > post. I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google > searches only to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with > nothing in between. I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but > unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for > calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options. I know that the > bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and unnecessary. I'd > like a better idea. > > > All the best, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Cutless/cutlass/strut bearing replacement
OK folks, I thought I was doing things the right way and incorporating all of the years of collective wisdom. Wrong! I'm doing a drive train rebuild and with the shaft out it only made sense to replace the strut bearing as well. It didn't seem to need it but doing it with the shaft out seemed a lot easier than with it in and I know for a fact that the bearing is at least 8 years old and probably twice that. I know I have a 1-1/4 shaft and the bearing is pretty thin walled so looking online at the availability of bearings it seemed that the only real option was a 1-1/4 x 1-1/2 x 5 inch bearing. That's 1-1/4 ID and 1-1/2 OD. Basically 1/8 total wall thickness (about 1/16th bronze and 1/16th rubber) Well I took it to the boat before destroying the old bearing and sure enough it looks like the right size. Seems like it will fit just right. I went ahead and destroyed the old bearing getting it out. Compared the now destroyed bearing to the new one and again no indication of any incorrect size. Today I brought the new bearing (fresh from the freezer) to the boat and much to my dismay it slipped right into the strut with no resistance and probably 1/16th of play all the way around. If I had to guess, I would think that it is instead a 1-5/8ths strut not 1-1/2. Ugh! So I looked online and sure enough the only next closest size is 1-3/4. That means 1/4 inch wall thickness (1/8th inch metal, 1/8th rubber). This is when I recalled someone else on the list having a similar problem a few years ago. I searched the archives and was unable to find the old post. I've been to buck algonquin and a few other sites and Google searches only to find that the bearings jump from 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 with nothing in between. I'm headed back to the boat with a set of calipers but unless it turns out to be a 1-3/4 and my eyes are simply due for calibration, I'm afraid I'm running out of options. I know that the bearings can be turned down but that seems costly and unnecessary. I'd like a better idea. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
