Stus-List Fwd: FW: Fwd: Fwd: Cabin Sole resurfacing

2019-11-16 Thread Mike Taylor via CnC-List
Rob

If your existing T plywood is in good shape then I think a good sanding is 
all that would be required.  Mine was delaminating.  The hardest part was 
gluing it down. As I mentioned before I didn’t do the off gassing and got a 
couple of bubbles.

Mike


Begin forwarded message:

> From: Rod Stright 
> Date: November 15, 2019 at 6:41:54 PM EST
> Cc: Mike Taylor 
> Subject: Re:  Stus-List FW:  Fwd:  Fwd:  Cabin Sole resurfacing
> 
> Hey Mike looks great. I was thinking about putting it over my existing teak 
> and holly which is in reasonable condition but a bit dark.  Think that would 
> work?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:17 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Bruce, Rod, Et Al
>>  
>> Here is a link to some pictures of my Lonseal cabin sole install.  Cabin Sole
>>  
>> Sorry Rod I down race so I can’t answer your questions.  My opinion; the 
>> product itself is a superior vinyl product and with proper installation 
>> there should be no issue.  That being said if you drop something the Lonseal 
>> will hold up well but the substrate may dent and be visible.
>>  
>> Some tips
>> Design substrate (plywood) with as few seams as possible.
>> Router bottom outsides edges with ½” router
>> Apply a minimum of 2 coats of epoxy to all pieces on all sides
>> Roll out the Lonseal  on a solid flat surface (living room floor) upside 
>> down then lay plywood upside down in the pattern it will be applied.  Cut 
>> Lonseal at least 1” larger than required on all side.  Makes it easier to 
>> install and easier to trim after glue is set.
>> Tape joints like you would with drywall.  I didn’t.
>> Use j-roller instead of recommended 100 lb. roller.  See mod I made to 
>> j-roller so I could apply more weight
>> Follow gluing instructions to the letter especially the off gassing.  I 
>> didn’t and some bubbles occurred that couldn’t be rolled out.
>> Use router with edge trimmer to cut bilge ports.
>>  
>> I was lucky that my sole was a bit narrower than the LonSeal.  Just ensure 
>> the pieces in the v-berth and the small piece in the galley lines all line 
>> up.  Same thing for the bilge access ports.  I had to make a small 
>> lengthwise cut around the mast truck to fit around the centreboard tube.  It 
>> can’t be seen unless you really look for it.
>>  
>> Mike
>>  
>>  
>> From: bwhitmore via CnC-List
>> Sent: November 10, 2019 7:11 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: bwhitmore
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Fwd: Cabin Sole resurfacing
>>  
>> Hi Mike and group,  
>>  
>> If anyone has good photos of the installed Lonseal PlasTeak product,  I'd 
>> like to see them.
>>  
>> As much as I am a traditionalist, ease of repair my win out.
>>  
>> I'd really like to know if you can notice a distinct difference between this 
>> and real teak.
>>  
>> Thanks!
>>  
>> Bruce 
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>>  
>>  Original message 
>> From: Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>> Date: 11/9/19 4:42 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Mike Taylor 
>> Subject: Stus-List Fwd:  Fwd:  Cabin Sole resurfacing
>>  
>> Hi Rod
>>  
>> Here is a link to the product I purchased from Defender.  Correction on 
>> product name.  PlasTeak is the trade name.  Lonseal makes them all.
>> 
>> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276198%7C2276201=3325405
>> 
>> I’m on the east coast now I could provide pics next week when I get home.
>>  
>> Mike
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> 
>> From: Rod Stright 
>> Date: November 9, 2019 at 5:06:27 PM AST
>> Cc: Mike Taylor 
>> Subject: Re:  Stus-List Fwd:  Cabin Sole resurfacing
>> 
>> Can you send additional info haven’t heard of it here.
>>  
>> Thanks
>> Rod 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> On Nov 9, 2019, at 4:46 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Dave
>>  
>> I went with PlasTeak a few years ago.  New plywood with 2 coats of West 
>> system epoxy.  Looks real good.  Got it at Defender.  Can send some tips and 
>> pics if you desire.
>> 
>> Mike
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> 
>> From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> Date: November 9, 2019 at 9:22:28 AM AST
>> To: CnC discussion list CnC 
>> Cc: David Knecht 
>> Subject: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing
>> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where the 
>> holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to do 
>> and have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley 
>> covering over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion 
>> anywhere in the archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave
>>  
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   

Stus-List Fwd: FW: Fwd: Fwd: Cabin Sole resurfacing

2019-11-16 Thread Mike Taylor via CnC-List
Dave

I used 5/8” construction grade plywood for the substrate. I would have 
preferred 3/4” but that would have put the Lonseal slightly proud of the liner 
edges.  I did screw the substrate down but some screws didn’t grab well.  Maybe 
one of those vhb tapes would be a good alternative.

Mike
Begin forwarded message:

> From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> Date: November 15, 2019 at 6:58:29 PM EST
> To: John Christopher via CnC-List 
> Cc: Dave Godwin 
> Subject: Re:  Stus-List FW:  Fwd:  Fwd:  Cabin Sole resurfacing
> Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Mike,
> 
> That. Is. One. Beautiful. Cabin sole.
> 
> Well worth the effort I’d say. I’m going to look into that 1/2 router edge 
> that you made. My early version of the 37’ doesn’t have the nice liner edges 
> that yours does but it may be an important technique. My model simply drops 
> in, butts up to the joiner work and is finished teak 1/4-round moulding.
> 
> Questions: what is the substrate that you used? Did you screw the panels in 
> like was done on my model? It’s a design “feature” that I have not been wild 
> about and am thinking about some other fastening system when I put my cabin 
> sole back in.
> 
> Having been exposed to new boats with flooring systems like yours I have to 
> think that it will hold up better that the original teak and holly 3/4” ply.
> 
> Well done.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
>> On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:16 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Bruce, Rod, Et Al
>>  
>> Here is a link to some pictures of my Lonseal cabin sole install.  Cabin Sole
>>  
>> Sorry Rod I down race so I can’t answer your questions.  My opinion; the 
>> product itself is a superior vinyl product and with proper installation 
>> there should be no issue.  That being said if you drop something the Lonseal 
>> will hold up well but the substrate may dent and be visible.
>>  
>> Some tips
>> Design substrate (plywood) with as few seams as possible.
>> Router bottom outsides edges with ½” router
>> Apply a minimum of 2 coats of epoxy to all pieces on all sides
>> Roll out the Lonseal  on a solid flat surface (living room floor) upside 
>> down then lay plywood upside down in the pattern it will be applied.  Cut 
>> Lonseal at least 1” larger than required on all side.  Makes it easier to 
>> install and easier to trim after glue is set.
>> Tape joints like you would with drywall.  I didn’t.
>> Use j-roller instead of recommended 100 lb. roller.  See mod I made to 
>> j-roller so I could apply more weight
>> Follow gluing instructions to the letter especially the off gassing.  I 
>> didn’t and some bubbles occurred that couldn’t be rolled out.
>> Use router with edge trimmer to cut bilge ports.
>>  
>> I was lucky that my sole was a bit narrower than the LonSeal.  Just ensure 
>> the pieces in the v-berth and the small piece in the galley lines all line 
>> up.  Same thing for the bilge access ports.  I had to make a small 
>> lengthwise cut around the mast truck to fit around the centreboard tube.  It 
>> can’t be seen unless you really look for it.
>>  
>> Mike
>>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray