What a tale of woe. Replacement best.
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From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2023 7:22:20 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chuck's Exhaust Elbow
Hi David,
In my case, The exhaust was working fine, no leaks. But I had to remove it to
get the bell housing off to access the transmission bolts to remove the
transmission which was slipping. The transmission is being rebuilt by a pro.
The exhaust riser had some questionable looking fittings that were original and
I wanted to replace what I could while waiting for the transmission. The water
injector elbow was a street elbow and missing some meat where the hose gets
clamped on. It should be a barb fitting and it must have been installed before
the flange was screwed on, so the flange needed to be removed to remove the
injector elbow.
I put it in a vice and soaked it in PB Blaster for a week, spraying the joints
every day, and then tried a pipe wrench on the flange. It turned easily but
the 1 1/4" nipple sheared right off leaving some portion of threads inside the
flange neck. We had to cut the part of the nipple in the riser using a sawzall
and chisel it in on itself making a spiral we turned using a couple large
pliers. We were going to do the same for the barb fitting but instead tried to
heat the casting and use a pipe wrench to turn it. Since we had three guys,
one held the torch while I had the pipe wrench, and the third guy tapped the
casting with a ballpeen hammer. Before the barb fitting turned, the casting
cracked where it was thinnest. Oh shit. The most experienced guy tried to
braze the crack but it just opened up more and more.
Where the casting cracked was right below the hex molded into it. We discussed
our problem and re-evaluated what we did and methods used and all agreed we did
things right. The casting was paper thin at the crack and it was a blessing to
find this now instead of it eroding through and failing at sea. Or you could
say I should have left it alone and not messed with it. I could get a pipe
nipple welded on the flange and I could fix the crack in the riser using an
epoxy, but I chose to order new parts. My Barr riser was aluminum and I found
it available online. The iron version is cheaper but out of stock. A new
flange costs about the same as what a welder would charge to add a nipple to
the old one. I looked at SS models but they look like they may not fit in my
engine box, so I will replace with the same parts and the new exhaust should
last longer than the engine.
Chuck
On 07/16/2023 9:01 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:
Hi chuck. What made you decide to replace it? Problems or trying to prevent
them? Dave
Sent from my iPhone
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