Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

You can minimize the air bubbles in epoxy coatings by applying to a warm
surface and letting it cool with the epoxy on it, so the epoxy is drawn in
to the surface instead of having the surface outgassing. A warming surface
will generate small bubbles. Also, flaming the epoxy with just a light
brush of a propane torch will pop most bubbles.

That said, I used Varathane semi-gloss and three strips of 1" grip tape cut
to fit on each step. Epoxy is just too much hassle to refinish.
http://members.shaw.ca/paradigm/steps.jpg



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



>
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Graham Young via CnC-List]

Would using an epoxy like this make any difference?
Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer

|   |
|   |  |   |   |   |   |   |
| Clear Penetrating Epoxy SealerCongratulations!  You've come to the right 
place. We Invented the Modern Technology that Restores Deteriorated Wood and 
Cures Paint & Varnish Failure.™  |
|  |
| View on www.smithandcompan... | Preview by Yahoo |
|  |
|   |



Graham 
1981 C 32 # 107Spellbound 

On Monday, August 29, 2016 5:48 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 

 I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I did 
that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set of 
flooring I simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it 
off with a coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish 
and didn’t care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and 
undersides, where it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.
Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that 
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.    Second best reason 
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  Yer basic general purpose epoxy is 
too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy 
degrades in uv.  (Requires varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be 
varnishing).  If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on 
bar tables and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on 
coating.  Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2





Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
   <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
Message-ID:
   <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
Sent from my iPhone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


   ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've grown fond of using Sikens SDR natural teak on most of my ”durable"
wood work.  The SDR stands for siding, deck, and roof.  For finish work I
use danish oil as a base and lemon oil on top.  Both of those combinations
produce a very natural look and feel that is easy to repair.  I have not
sought out a gloss finish but I fear that it will be more work to achieve
and maintain.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 29, 2016 2:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
>
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
>
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?
> Stick to non-skid tape?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I sanded and refinished the companionway steps with semigloss marine poly.  A 
week later a friend slipped down the stairs and broke his foot. You can write 
your own moral of the story.  Jerry. J  C 27-5.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2016, at 6:02 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would use Grip-Tex nonskid in the varnish the beads are clear so they won't 
> look bad. 
> But I don't finish my steps. I like the nonskid properties of raw teak. 
> Andy
> C 40
> Peregrine
> 
> Andrew Burton
> PO Box 632
> Newport, RI 
> USA 02840
> 
> +401 965 5260
> 
> 
>> On Aug 29, 2016, at 14:00, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
>> 
>> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
>> 
>> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  
>> Stick to non-skid tape?
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I would use Grip-Tex nonskid in the varnish the beads are clear so they won't 
look bad. 
But I don't finish my steps. I like the nonskid properties of raw teak. 
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

+401 965 5260


> On Aug 29, 2016, at 14:00, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
> 
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
> 
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  
> Stick to non-skid tape?
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Of course, because I’m a ham-fisted emailer, I linked to the wrong item. This 
<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/week-seven-almost-ready-to-paint-hull.html>
 may make more sense…

Confusedly,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Aug 29, 2016, at 5:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I 
> did that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set 
> <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/paint-goes-on.html> of flooring I 
> simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it off with a 
> coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish and didn’t 
> care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and undersides, where 
> it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.
> 
> Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>> On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is 
>> that it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best 
>> reason is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
>> Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy 
>> varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires 
>> varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
>>  If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
>> and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating. 
>>  
>> Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
>> Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
>> 
>> Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
>> From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com <mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
>> To: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com <mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>>, 
>> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>"
>><cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
>> Message-ID:
>><169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com 
>> <mailto:169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Steve
>> 
>> In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
>> their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 
>> 26 Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.
>> 
>> This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of 
>> Andy and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch 
>> teak and holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  
>> There were no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as 
>> well.  Note that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees 
>> Fahrenheit or 10 Celsius.
>> 
>> It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in 
>> favour of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result
>> 
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> Halifax
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I did 
that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set 
<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/paint-goes-on.html> of flooring I 
simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it off with a 
coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish and didn’t 
care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and undersides, where 
it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes.

Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is 
> that it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best 
> reason is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
> Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy 
> varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires 
> varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
>  If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
> and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating.  
> Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
> Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.
> 
> Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com <mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
> To: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com <mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>>, 
> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>"
><cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
> Message-ID:
><169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com 
> <mailto:169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Steve
> 
> In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
> their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
> Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.
> 
> This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of 
> Andy and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch 
> teak and holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  
> There were no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as 
> well.  Note that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees 
> Fahrenheit or 10 Celsius.
> 
> It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in 
> favour of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I have had good success by scrubbing the moldy teak with Trisodium Phosphate 
(TSP), rinsing and allowing to dry. I used Helmsman spar urethane satin finish 
on all the interior teak, looks great.___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

For the anti-skid, Treadmaster make small panels specifically for stairs  ( 
several colors ), or you can put anti-skid for skate boards ( quite agressive 
but it lasts! )
I prefer the treadmaster, they are pre-glued.
SylvainC

  From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
 Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 2:00 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
   
Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  Stick 
to non-skid tape?

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


   ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

5-7 coats Epifanes matte or gloss then 3M nonslip treads.

I found some nice nonslip treads at  Overton's for Touche' but can't find
them now.

Here's something similar:
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=StepSafe-Nonslip-Pad=74569

Dennis C.

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 1:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
>
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
>
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?
> Stick to non-skid tape?
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Lysol wipes work great to kill mold.

Joel

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 3:04 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am considering doing my entire interior in some kind of
> varnish/urethane/etc. Currently, and as delivered, none of the teak below
> (except the sole) has had anything but oil added to the teak--either
> straight linseed oil or lemon scented linseed oil.
>
> Before I do anything, I need to thoroughly clean up the teak cabinets,
> etc. some of which have mold growing on them.
>
> What are the list's thought on cleaning this stuff up before adding a nice
> finish?
>
> I really do not want to mess around with oxalic acid below decks.
> Somewhere I heard borax suggested for the mold, followed by a good soap and
> water cleaning and drying.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Oriental, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I am considering doing my entire interior in some kind of varnish/urethane/etc. 
Currently, and as delivered, none of the teak below (except the sole) has had 
anything but oil added to the teak--either straight linseed oil or lemon 
scented linseed oil.
 
Before I do anything, I need to thoroughly clean up the teak cabinets, etc. 
some of which have mold growing on them.
 
What are the list's thought on cleaning this stuff up before adding a nice 
finish?

I really do not want to mess around with oxalic acid below decks. Somewhere I 
heard borax suggested for the mold, followed by a good soap and water cleaning 
and drying.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental, NC

  
 

___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Teak can be varnished. Just wipe it down with a clean rag soaked in 
acetone and apply varnish as soon as the acetone dries. You will have 
removed the surface oils. If you wait too long before applying the 
varnish, the oils will resurface.


Bill Bina


On 8/29/2016 2:52 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List wrote:


Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c 
it releases oils.  But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit 
table?


Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI




___

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Dave via CnC-List]

Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is that 
it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak.Second best reason 
is cost, third is repairability vs varnish.  
Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy varnishing, 
(btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv.  (Requires varnish anyway to 
protect, so you'll still be varnishing). 
 If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables 
and the like,  which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating.  
Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine.  
Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border.

Dave   - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2






Message: 8
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +
From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
To: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
   <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps
Message-ID:
   <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
Sent from my iPhone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I did CPES for two coats, then minwax  satin clear urethane for the stairs.  I 
liked doing the stairs so much, that I ended up doing galley and nav station 
area, but just two coats of urethane.  It came out like a new interior.   
Outside stuff like cockpit table and grab rails, I put epifanes after CPES.  I 
think if I get around to it, I will do the entire interior with minwax satin 
clear this winter.  It will definitely bring the boat value up.  

If you get bubbles, scuff them off with 400 grit or 320.   It will teach you to 
take your time next time.  Varnishing is a test of patience.  You cannot cut 
corners.  

There was a lengthy thread on cruisers forum about this same topic.  The 
consensus was that CPES is just a thinned version of epoxy and it does not add 
anything more.  The truth is, I wanted to get rid of my old cans of CPES which 
I had for years so I figured I get rid of them somewhere useful.  But CPES is 
slow by nature.  If I had to do it over again, I would just thin west systems 
the first coat or two so that it penetrates better.  And definitely either slow 
hardener or do it on a cool dry night. 

Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c it 
releases oils.  But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit table?

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 2:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

 

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my 
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I didn't 
even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in three coats 
of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another go over the 
winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air bubbles in the epoxy.

 

Cheers,

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Too hot/too much direct sun leads to bubbles.  Learned that this weekend!

Joel

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 2:33 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my
> cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I
> didn't even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in
> three coats of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another
> go over the winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air
> bubbles in the epoxy.
>
> Cheers,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Steve

In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on 
their former C 25 Dry Red.  I tried to do the same on our former Niagara 26 
Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy.

This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of Andy 
and others.  Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ¾ inch teak and 
holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good.  There were 
no sags or obvious bubbles.  I did a light sand between coats as well.  Note 
that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees Fahrenheit or 10 
Celsius.

It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in favour 
of their matte finish.  I really liked the end result

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: Stevan Plavsa [mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my 
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I didn't 
even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in three coats 
of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another go over the 
winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air bubbles in the epoxy.

Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my
cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I
didn't even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in
three coats of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another
go over the winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air
bubbles in the epoxy.

Cheers,
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On my cabin sole that was new this year we did three coats west with slow 
hardener followed by three coats epiphanes matte finish varnish

Mike
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 3:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.

Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?

Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  Stick 
to non-skid tape?

--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Non skid varnish seems like a bad idea

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2016, at 14:00, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.
> 
> Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?
> 
> Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?  
> Stick to non-skid tape?
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
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greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Almost time to refinish the companionway steps.

Any reason NOT to use West epoxy and 207 hardener before varnishing?

Can you add non-skid beads to varnish?  Will it look like crap if I do?
Stick to non-skid tape?

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!