Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Mine are Groco, my survey said they were the best
Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Feb 8, 2016 at 6:26 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Exactly as per my previous post.
>
> In my case I discovered the odd-sized flush mount thru-hulls once the boat
> was out of the water. So there wasn’t any option of waiting around for some
> far-distant supplier to ship. I had to go with what was available locally.
> If you have the luxury of pre-ordering and can find ones of the correct size
> then go for it. If not then  adapt!
>
> Also keep in mind not all thu-hulls and ball valves are created equal. I’d
> say don’t skimp and save a few bucks on off-shore “generic” product. Or be
> like the (supposedly) professional who replaced the valves on my boat with
> Home Depot specials!
>
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C 27 MkIII
>
>
> From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 10:47 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Stevan Plavsa ; Rick Bushie
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
>
> The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I replaced
> all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls. Like yours,
> mine were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so I filled the
> remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a bit off but
> you barely notice). I would recommend just filling the counter sunk hole and
> mounting standard mushroom thru-hulls, seems easier and more
> straightforward.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:44 PM, Rick Bushie via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years
>> ago. I bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep
>> Blue Yacht Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to cut
>> out the old fittings.
>>
>> Rick Bushie
>> Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
>> Worton, MD.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I
replaced all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls.
Like yours, mine were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so
I filled the remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a
bit off but you barely notice). I would recommend just filling the counter
sunk hole and mounting standard mushroom thru-hulls, seems easier and more
straightforward.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:44 PM, Rick Bushie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years
> ago. I bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep
> Blue Yacht Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to
> cut out the old fittings.
>
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
> Worton, MD.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Exactly as per my previous post.

In my case I discovered the odd-sized flush mount thru-hulls once the boat was 
out of the water. So there wasn’t any option of waiting around for some 
far-distant supplier to ship. I had to go with what was available locally. If 
you have the luxury of pre-ordering and can find ones of the correct size then 
go for it. If not then  adapt!

Also keep in mind not all thu-hulls and ball valves are created equal. I’d say 
don’t skimp and save a few bucks on off-shore “generic” product. Or be like the 
(supposedly) professional who replaced the valves on my boat with Home Depot 
specials!

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII


From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2016 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Stevan Plavsa ; Rick Bushie 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

The scupper thru-hulls were the only ones I left alone on Suhana. I replaced 
all else with seacocks, new backing plates and new thru-hulls. Like yours, mine 
were flush mounted. The stuff on the market is smaller so I filled the 
remaining gap with thickened epoxy, mostly successful (looks a bit off but you 
barely notice). I would recommend just filling the counter sunk hole and 
mounting standard mushroom thru-hulls, seems easier and more straightforward. 

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto



On Sun, Feb 7, 2016 at 7:44 PM, Rick Bushie via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years ago. 
I bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep Blue Yacht 
Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to cut out the old 
fittings.

  Rick Bushie
  Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
  Worton, MD.

  Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I ended up doing what Joe did. I didn't replace the thru hull, just
everything above it starting with the plywood backing plate. As there was no
evidence of leakage, I held the thru hull in place with a step wrench and
didn't disturb it, just put new wood in place (bedded) and re-plumbed with a
proper ball valve.

Gary
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Bognar via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 9:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Bognar <jbog...@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

Joe : send me your e mail off list . jbog...@sympatico.ca I did this last
summer and I have photos. I found the thru hulls and ball valves at my
chandlery . I did not need to replace the thru hull . I just had to re bed
it and make a new backing plate 

Sent from Joe Bognar
> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This
project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of 
> expanded (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25 
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand 
> proud of it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the 
> flange and then remove the through hull from the inside.
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might 
> find them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Rick Bushie via CnC-List]

Anchovy got all new through hull fittings and proper seacocks four years ago. I 
bought everything, including flush fitting through hulls from Deep Blue Yacht 
Supply. I used a small diamond cutting wheel on my Rotozip to cut out the old 
fittings.

Rick Bushie
Anchovy, 30-1, Hull 1
Worton, MD.

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Joe at Zialater via CnC-List]

Howdy Listers,

I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
(shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!

The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
remove the through hull from the inside.  

Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.

Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.

Cheers,

Joe Boyle
Annapolis
1975 30 MK1 "Zia"



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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

That socket trick is slick. Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly cheap. 
It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to fit inside the 
valve and capture the two tits inside. Another trick it to slide the handle of 
a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold that with another wrench. 
During removal, you are not turning this till the inside flange is removed, but 
simply backing it up. During install, you hold the outside part while 
tightening the inside flange. 


- Original Message -

From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Antoine Rose" <antoine.r...@videotron.ca> 
Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1 

I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the 
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a 
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a 
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches. 
You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly easy 
once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and healthy the 
hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange turned rose 
(meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace everything else. 
Antoine (C 30 Cousin) 



Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit : 

> Howdy Listers, 
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1. This project 
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded 
> (shall we say) from there. Mission creep! 
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25 
> diameter hole. The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of 
> it. I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then 
> remove the through hull from the inside. 
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find 
> them? I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can. 
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome. 
> 
> Cheers, 
> 
> Joe Boyle 
> Annapolis 
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia" 
> 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> 
> Email address: 
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at: 
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 


___ 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the 
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a 
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a 
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches.
You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly easy 
once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and healthy the 
hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange turned rose 
(meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace everything else.
Antoine (C 30 Cousin)



Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit :

> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
> it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> remove the through hull from the inside.  
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
> them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 


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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Bacons in Annapolis have old parts like this as I recall--its worth checking 
anyway.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
> it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> remove the through hull from the inside.  
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
> them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

It's  a step wrench. Defender sells them iirc.

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> That socket trick is slick.  Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly
> cheap.  It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to
> fit inside the valve and capture the two tits inside.  Another trick it to
> slide the handle of a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold
> that with another wrench.  During removal, you are not turning this till
> the inside flange is removed, but simply backing it up.  During install,
> you hold the outside part while tightening the inside flange.
>
>
> --
> *From: *"Antoine Rose via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Cc: *"Antoine Rose" <antoine.r...@videotron.ca
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','antoine.r...@videotron.ca');>>
> *Sent: *Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1
>
> I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside
> the flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing.
> Buy a cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then
> grind a slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches.
> You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly
> easy once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and
> healthy the hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange
> turned rose (meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace
> everything else.
> Antoine (C 30 Cousin)
>
>
>
> Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit :
>
> > Howdy Listers,
> >
> > I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This
> project
> > started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> > (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> >
> > The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> > diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand
> proud of
> > it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> > remove the through hull from the inside.
> >
> > Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might
> find
> > them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> >
> > Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Joe Boyle
> > Annapolis
> > 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');>
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>
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I just went out and purchased a Groco step-wrench. A little heat on the flange 
with a heat-gun softens up the bedding compound and allows you to turn the 
through-hull. The hard part was getting the locking nut off the through-hull on 
the inside. I ended-up cutting mine off as the through-hulls were definitely 
rose-coloured. Wood backing plates were also punky so they came off too and I 
made up new wood backing plates coated with epoxy (and later painted with 
Interlux bilgecoat). You have to shape the backing plates to the shape of the 
hull. I think I used 3/4-inch marine ply for mine.

All the flush-mount through-hulls I found were too small to use as 
replacements. So we filled the ‘cups’ with West epoxy and went with Groco 
mushroom surface-mount through-hulls. These had the added benefit too that they 
are a taper-thread so you get more than the 3 or so threads engaging with the 
ball valves. Another (best) option is to use flange-mount adapters on the 
inside but that requires either using fiberglass backing plates with studs 
installed or, with wood backing plates, drilling more holes through the hull 
for through-bolts. And those through-bolts line-up pretty closely to the edges 
of the filled area where the old flush-mount through-hulls were. I was 
concerned that the epoxy fill might not stand-up to the drilling. I might 
actually go back and install the flange adapters on the cockpit drains and 
engine intake. Quite a bit more robust solution in this area where there is a 
bit of potential for something heavy whacking the side of the through-hull. I 
recall reading of an errant spare alternator taking out a through-hull. Under 
the galley or head sink I can’t see much reason to use flange adapters.


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2016 3:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

It's  a step wrench. Defender sells them iirc. 

On Saturday, February 6, 2016, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  That socket trick is slick.  Plumbers use a tool for this that is fairly 
cheap.  It is made of cast iron and has several different sized steps to fit 
inside the valve and capture the two tits inside.  Another trick it to slide 
the handle of a pipe wrench or an adjustable wrench inside and hold that with 
another wrench.  During removal, you are not turning this till the inside 
flange is removed, but simply backing it up.  During install, you hold the 
outside part while tightening the inside flange.




--

  From: "Antoine Rose via CnC-List" 
<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
  To: javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');
  Cc: "Antoine Rose" <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','antoine.r...@videotron.ca');>
  Sent: Saturday, February 6, 2016 6:05:10 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1


  I've done it on mine. Don't touch the flange, it's the best part. Inside the 
flange hole there are two notches to help you hold it while unscrewing. Buy a 
cheap socket (for ratchets) of the same size of the inside hole. Then grind a 
slot to allow the socket to slide in and lock itself on the notches.
  You'll need to be two for this job to unscrew the thing. It will be fairly 
easy once it starts moving. You'll probably be surprised at how well and 
healthy the hull looks underneath, this was well done. Unless the flange turned 
rose (meaning the zinc inside is gone), keep it and replace everything else.
  Antoine (C 30 Cousin)




  Le 2016-02-06 à 17:39, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List a écrit :


  > Howdy Listers,
  > 
  > I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
  > started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
  > (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
  > 
  > The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
  > diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
  > it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
  > remove the through hull from the inside.  
  > 
  > Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
  > them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
  > 
  > Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
  > 
  > Cheers,
  > 
  > Joe Boyle
  > Annapolis
  > 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > ___
  > 
  > Email address:
  > javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
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bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Replacing through hulls on a 30 MK1

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Joe : send me your e mail off list . jbog...@sympatico.ca I did this last 
summer and I have photos. I found the thru hulls and ball valves at my 
chandlery . I did not need to replace the thru hull . I just had to re bed it 
and make a new backing plate 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Feb 6, 2016, at 5:39 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Howdy Listers,
> 
> I am replacing the through hull cockpit drains on my 30 MK1.   This project
> started with replacing the old gate valves - and it has sort of expanded
> (shall we say) from there.  Mission creep!
> 
> The flange measures 3.5 inches on the outside of the hull with a 1.25
> diameter hole.  The flange is even with the hull and does not stand proud of
> it.  I have heard that the best plan is to grind off the flange and then
> remove the through hull from the inside.  
> 
> Does anyone know brand of through hull used in 1975 and where I might find
> them?  I want to replace them with the same make and model if I can.
> 
> Also any other tips and tricks would be really welcome.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Joe Boyle
> Annapolis
> 1975 30 MK1 "Zia"
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 

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