Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness
With both taps turned off, if the pump pressure switch doesn't see back pressure, it will run until it sees pressure, and the pump turns off. When the cold water is turned on, the pump pressure switch sees no back pressure, and pumps the cold water. When the cold water tap is closed, the pressure switch sees back pressure and turns the pump off. When the hot water tap is turned on, there is still some back pressure (coming from the hot water tank), so the pump doesn't turn on immediately. After the hot water runs for a while, there is no back pressure, and the pump turns on. This is normal operation. If the pump is straining before it shuts off, it's because pressure is building up in the hot water tank. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Tue, Oct 23, 2018 at 10:58 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > No accumulator tank, the T/P valve is the only thing I changed, no other > lines disconnected. > Thanks for all the thoughts, I'll try bleeding off the T/P valve and see > if it helps. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://urldefense.proofpoint. > com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c= > clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r= > 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=SXU1nfQfViY- > RLXRA375GdtndWX3zzMbXOnUUsYOCk0&s=4upxv6V8RdOQgn5BCbFm7orC2JvjKO > u0Xr6A32oAacE&e= > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness
No accumulator tank, the T/P valve is the only thing I changed, no other lines disconnected. Thanks for all the thoughts, I'll try bleeding off the T/P valve and see if it helps. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Water heater weirdness
The first quart or so of water I get after a long motor will burn your hand and I *don’t even HAVE a hot water heater*. Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 22, 2018 3:16 PM To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds. Mine does that after motoring for a while because the line runs through the engine compartment. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 1:21 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds. Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open. Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness
In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds. Mine does that after motoring for a while because the line runs through the engine compartment. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 22, 2018 at 1:21 PM Jim Watts via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. > A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve > on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump > acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds > it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I > open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump > kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, > when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very > hot water for the first 10-15 seconds. > Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it > didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the > tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to > reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open. > Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness
Sounds like lots of air in the Hot Water Tank to me, which drives hot water backwards out of the tank into the cold water lines when you turn the cold tap on. I'd think you should be able to blead the air out through the new blo-off valve as it should be the highest thing on the tank. Did you have the water lines disconnected from the tank and possibly reconnected them backwards? The dip tube for the cold water inlet could cause an air bubble in the tank if the lines are connected backward. Ken H. On Monday, 22 October 2018, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List wrote: > > Mine behaves similarly. You should be able to bleed the tank from that new valve. I will give it a shot as well. > > I would guess you have a supply line laying on the hot water hose from the heat exchanger. > > Rick Rohwer > Paikea 37+ > Tacoma, WA >> On Oct 22, 2018, at 11:21 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. >> A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds. >> Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open. >> Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness
Jim: Running the hot water for 10 or 15 minutes should get rid of any air bubble in the water system but I don't think this is the problem. There should be a check valve in the high-pressure water line to separate the cold water supply from the hot water from the tank--check the functioning of this check valve. (Refer to Raritan water heater installation instructions for more info on this check valve.) Another thing you might want to check is the accumulator tank. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230) Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com Email: dainyr...@icloud.com Annapolis, MD > On Oct 22, 2018, at 2:21 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List > wrote: > > I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. > A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on > our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts > very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is > obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the > hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, > whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open > the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for > the first 10-15 seconds. > Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it > didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank > somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach > pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open. > Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Water heater weirdness
Mine behaves similarly. You should be able to bleed the tank from that new valve. I will give it a shot as well. I would guess you have a supply line laying on the hot water hose from the heat exchanger. Rick Rohwer Paikea 37+ Tacoma, WA > On Oct 22, 2018, at 11:21 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List > wrote: > > I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. > A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on > our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts > very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is > obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the > hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, > whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open > the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for > the first 10-15 seconds. > Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it > didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank > somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach > pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open. > Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Water heater weirdness
I'm baffled. Maybe someone here can figure this out. A few weeks ago, I replaced the leaking overpressure/overtemperature valve on our old Raritan water heater, and ever since, the pressure water pump acts very oddly. It starts out sounding normal, then as the pressure builds it is obviously working harder and slower, until finally it stops. When I open the hot water tap, the water runs for quite a while before the pump kicks in, whereas it used to come on almost instantaneously. In addition, when I open the taps after motoring, the cold water tap is providing very hot water for the first 10-15 seconds. Yesterday I tried running the system dry then refilling the tank but it didn't seem to help. My best guess is that there is an air bubble in the tank somehow and the pump is compressing the air, so it takes longer to reach pressure and then the pressure bleeds off while the tap is open. Any bright ideas on how I might fix this? Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
