Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,
Many thanks for the detailed description on how to remove the old holding tank. 
I have been staring at the head for a long time trying to figure out how to 
dismantle it with out destroying everything. 
Cheers,
Bill


> On Jul 13, 2017, at 4:15 PM, Garry Cross via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> When I purchased my 35 MKii a few years ago the head smelled really bad. No 
> amount of deodorizer helped. I removed the toilet, drained the tank and used 
> a bucket for awhile. Helped somewhat. 
> I tried to get it out through the hole it was mounted in but over the years 
> the bag was too stiff.
> 
> To remove the exterior wall you have to remove the sink cabinet. 
> 
> There are plugged screws holding the front of the sink cabinet to the 
> interior wall between the galley and the v-birth. Drill out the plugs and 
> remove the screws. Drill out the plugs in the decorative strip on the front 
> of the sink counter. Remove the screws from underneath the counter and remove 
> the counter top. Remove the screws holding the cabinet front to the exterior 
> wall. Now your stuck. The exterior wall is screwed from the backside and the 
> shelf won't come out of the existing opening. It had to have all gone in 
> before the deck went on. Removed the screws from the bottom of the wall that 
> screw into the fiberglass toilet/floor base. Cut the flange on the floor 
> enough so that the bottom of the wall can be pulled out. Pry it away at the 
> bottom and get your fingers behind the wall. Pull like hell. The screws will 
> give way and pull out of the back of the wall. They are only about 3/8 into 
> the wall as it is only 1/2 inch thick. There are only a few of them like, 2 
> or 3 on each side. 
> Remove the shelf and tank. 
> 
> Rebuild as desired. I cut another slot in the wall and put in a second shelf. 
> I built a tank in the v-berth and plumbed it along the hull and up to the 
> existing deck fittings and down to the head. Made a slot in the exterior wall 
> for the hose to exit to the head. Added a through hull to get fresh water to 
> the toilet. Old tank was is a recirculating tank. 
> I put a new laminate on the counter top and refinished all the panels with 
> urathane. Put a new single lever tap on the counter top and reused the 
> stainless steel sink. 
> 
> Looks great and does not smell. Unless of course the breeze is right(wrong). 
> The breather is right outside the bathroom window in the hill near the rail. 
> You might want to move that somewhere else. 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Bill Hoyne <ho...@telus.net <mailto:ho...@telus.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Greg Swetka <swe...@att.net <mailto:swe...@att.net>>
> Bcc: 
> Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 08:57:32 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII
> Hi Greg,
> Thanks for the info.
> I was wondering how to dismantle the cabinetry. What do you have to do and 
> where are the screws? Do you have to take the sink area apart and then the 
> back panel? How is that back pannel connected to the side bulkheads?   It 
> sure looks like a major job and a PITA. How did you route the new hoses from 
> the forepeak to the thru-hulls?
> 
> Cheers,
> Bill
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

When I purchased my 35 MKii a few years ago the head smelled really bad. No
amount of deodorizer helped. I removed the toilet, drained the tank and
used a bucket for awhile. Helped somewhat.
I tried to get it out through the hole it was mounted in but over the years
the bag was too stiff.

To remove the exterior wall you have to remove the sink cabinet.

There are plugged screws holding the front of the sink cabinet to the
interior wall between the galley and the v-birth. Drill out the plugs and
remove the screws. Drill out the plugs in the decorative strip on the front
of the sink counter. Remove the screws from underneath the counter and
remove the counter top. Remove the screws holding the cabinet front to the
exterior wall. Now your stuck. The exterior wall is screwed from the
backside and the shelf won't come out of the existing opening. It had to
have all gone in before the deck went on. Removed the screws from the
bottom of the wall that screw into the fiberglass toilet/floor base. Cut
the flange on the floor enough so that the bottom of the wall can be pulled
out. Pry it away at the bottom and get your fingers behind the wall. Pull
like hell. The screws will give way and pull out of the back of the wall.
They are only about 3/8 into the wall as it is only 1/2 inch thick. There
are only a few of them like, 2 or 3 on each side.
Remove the shelf and tank.

Rebuild as desired. I cut another slot in the wall and put in a second
shelf.
I built a tank in the v-berth and plumbed it along the hull and up to the
existing deck fittings and down to the head. Made a slot in the exterior
wall for the hose to exit to the head. Added a through hull to get fresh
water to the toilet. Old tank was is a recirculating tank.
I put a new laminate on the counter top and refinished all the panels with
urathane. Put a new single lever tap on the counter top and reused the
stainless steel sink.

Looks great and does not smell. Unless of course the breeze is
right(wrong). The breather is right outside the bathroom window in the hill
near the rail. You might want to move that somewhere else.

-- Forwarded message --
From: Bill Hoyne <ho...@telus.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Greg Swetka <swe...@att.net>
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2017 08:57:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the info.
I was wondering how to dismantle the cabinetry. What do you have to do and
where are the screws? Do you have to take the sink area apart and then the
back panel? How is that back pannel connected to the side bulkheads?   It
sure looks like a major job and a PITA. How did you route the new hoses
from the forepeak to the thru-hulls?

Cheers,
Bill
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Hi Greg,
Thanks for the info. 
I was wondering how to dismantle the cabinetry. What do you have to do and 
where are the screws? Do you have to take the sink area apart and then the back 
panel? How is that back pannel connected to the side bulkheads?   It sure looks 
like a major job and a PITA. How did you route the new hoses from the forepeak 
to the thru-hulls?

Cheers,
Bill

> On Jul 8, 2017, at 8:42 PM, Greg Swetka via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a C 35mkII 1974 hull #277 and sailed another one when they were new 
> and worked at a C dealership as a teenager, at about the time they were 
> built. They were delivered with a dinky tank, sandwiched between the hull and 
> the bulkhead in the head compartment. It was a very unique construction 
> technique that incorporated a double wall bladder that was placed through a 
> small opening in the head compartment in the shelf. There was a solution of 
> epoxy and vermiculite in between the double walls and then they were inflated 
> until the epoxy set up. The tank was rated at about 11 gallons but most would 
> realistically hold only about 8 if they were lucky. Here in the Great Lakes, 
> that just didn't cut it. On Piper, I installed a 40 gallon bladder under the 
> forepeak and the removal of the old tank, involved dismantling the cabinetry 
> in the head, to then pull the outer bulkhead away enough to remove the old 
> tank. It was quite a job, but well worth it in the long run.
> 
> Greg Swetka
> S.V. Piper
> C
> Lake St. Clair
> Grosse Pointe Park, MI
>> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 19:04:47 -0500
>> From: Bill Hoyne 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Black water tanks
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> That is a good question. I have a 35mkii and it has a black water ?tank? 
>> behind the head. It is not connected and I would like to reconnect it. Does 
>> any one know what size (gallons) it is? It seem to be somewhat collapsable - 
>> is it? Are they robust? Can they be removed/replaced? The only outlet is the 
>> pump out on the deck. Can I replumb it so I can pump it out through the 
>> thru-hull?
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Bill Hoyne
>> Mithrandir
>> ?74 C MkII
>> in Victoria,BC
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 7, 2017, at 11:19 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Does anyone know if the 35MK2 were fitted with black water tanks when 
>>> manufactured in the mid-70?s?
>>> 
>>> Cheers, J-G 
>>> Callisto, 33 mk2
>>> Victoria BC
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
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>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 19:13:06 -0500
>> From: Bill Hoyne 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines
>> Message-ID: <1e861929-88a2-4d03-ab7b-bd404c13a...@telus.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> I have a Volvo Penta 2003 in my C 35 and I developed a leak in the flow 
>> line that screws into the injector. Diesel is leaking ( spurting) out 
>> between the bolt and the line just above the injector. I cleaned about 500cc 
>> out of the bilge :-(  I have not unscrewed it yet and before I do I would 
>> like to know what are the options? Can the fitting be re-soldered? Does it 
>> have to be replaced? Does anyone know where I can find  replacement flow 
>> lines - it?s from the early ?80?s. ( At a reasonable cost?)
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Bill Hoyne
>> Mithrandir
>> ?74 C MkII
>> in Victoria,BC
>> 
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 20:21:40 -0400
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I would say that it probably could be repaired but probably won't be worth
>> it.  Just get new ones.  I looks like the volvo site should be helpful.  I
>> didn't have your engine model so I got stopped pretty early in the search.
>> 
>> 

Re: Stus-List black water tanks on C 35mkII

[Greg Swetka via CnC-List]

I have a C 35mkII 1974 hull #277 and sailed another one when they were new 
and worked at a C dealership as a teenager, at about the time they were 
built. They were delivered with a dinky tank, sandwiched between the hull and 
the bulkhead in the head compartment. It was a very unique construction 
technique that incorporated a double wall bladder that was placed through a 
small opening in the head compartment in the shelf. There was a solution of 
epoxy and vermiculite in between the double walls and then they were inflated 
until the epoxy set up. The tank was rated at about 11 gallons but most would 
realistically hold only about 8 if they were lucky. Here in the Great Lakes, 
that just didn't cut it. On Piper, I installed a 40 gallon bladder under the 
forepeak and the removal of the old tank, involved dismantling the cabinetry in 
the head, to then pull the outer bulkhead away enough to remove the old tank. 
It was quite a job, but well worth it in the long run.

Greg Swetka
S.V. Piper
C
Lake St. Clair
Grosse Pointe Park, MI
> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 19:04:47 -0500
> From: Bill Hoyne 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Black water tanks
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> That is a good question. I have a 35mkii and it has a black water ?tank? 
> behind the head. It is not connected and I would like to reconnect it. Does 
> any one know what size (gallons) it is? It seem to be somewhat collapsable - 
> is it? Are they robust? Can they be removed/replaced? The only outlet is the 
> pump out on the deck. Can I replumb it so I can pump it out through the 
> thru-hull?
> 
> Cheers,
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ?74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
> 
> 
>> On Jul 7, 2017, at 11:19 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone know if the 35MK2 were fitted with black water tanks when 
>> manufactured in the mid-70?s?
>> 
>> Cheers, J-G 
>> Callisto, 33 mk2
>> Victoria BC
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 19:13:06 -0500
> From: Bill Hoyne 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines
> Message-ID: <1e861929-88a2-4d03-ab7b-bd404c13a...@telus.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi All,
> I have a Volvo Penta 2003 in my C 35 and I developed a leak in the flow 
> line that screws into the injector. Diesel is leaking ( spurting) out between 
> the bolt and the line just above the injector. I cleaned about 500cc out of 
> the bilge :-(  I have not unscrewed it yet and before I do I would like to 
> know what are the options? Can the fitting be re-soldered? Does it have to be 
> replaced? Does anyone know where I can find  replacement flow lines - it?s 
> from the early ?80?s. ( At a reasonable cost?)
> 
> Cheers,
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ?74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2017 20:21:40 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Volvo Penta 2003 flow lines
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I would say that it probably could be repaired but probably won't be worth
> it.  Just get new ones.  I looks like the volvo site should be helpful.  I
> didn't have your engine model so I got stopped pretty early in the search.
> 
> http://www.volvopentastore.com/Engine-Part-Catalog/dm/cart_id.769140284--func.volvo--session_id.100217069--store_id.366
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Jul 8, 2017 8:14 PM, "Bill Hoyne via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
> 
>> Hi All,
>> I have a Volvo Penta 2003 in my C 35 and I developed a leak in the flow
>> line that screws into the injector. Diesel is leaking ( spurting) out
>> between the bolt and the line just above the injector. I cleaned about
>> 500cc out of the bilge :-(  I have not unscrewed it yet and before I do I
>> would like to know what are the options? Can the fitting be re-soldered?
>> Does it have to be replaced? Does anyone know where