Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

2012-01-08 Thread Chuck Grandgent
Everything on my radio bench is plugged into a suitably large power strip
(I run my T4X barefoot).  The wall wart for the fan is plugged into it, as
is the soldering iron.  This has the benefit of ensuring nothing is left on
unintentionally.

   Chuck, K1OM

On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 5:33 PM, Michael  Sue Trussell 
mtruss8...@comcast.net wrote:

 I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I
 know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the
 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I
 don’t have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like
 the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any
 suggestions?

 ** **

 Thank you in advance

 ** **

 Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN

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[Drakelist] Jean-Marie Cherry (Drake Virtual Museum) has passed away

2012-01-08 Thread Sindre Torp
To everybody on the list:

I'm very sorry to inform you that my friend and companion with the R.L. Drake 
Virtual Museum ( http://www.dproducts.be/drake_museum/) , Jean-Marie Cherry 
passed away on December 26, 2011.
The funeral took place January 4, 2012.
He died of lung cancer.

Jean-Marie and I had the museum together on equal basis.
The R.L. Drake Virtual Museum will continue as you know it today, and I will 
take care of it all from now on.
And you will indefinitely still find it here 
http://www.dproducts.be/drake_museum

I began some weeks ago the work with a new and complete updated version of The 
R.L. Drake Virtual Museum which will be launched part by part. The files will 
also be moved to another server as part of this job. I will keep you posted 
here. This work will be forced from now on.

All kind of requests, new stuff for The R.L. Drake Virtual Museum etc. should 
hereafter be directed to me.

Ideas for the new and updated museum are also most welcome.

My e-mail is sindt...@online.no, and cell phone + 47 - 90685749

I indeed hope for your continued support for The R.L. Drake Virtual Museum. 
Greetings on this list will be most appreciated.

Thanks for your attention.

73,
Sindre Torp, LA6OP
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[Drakelist] L-7 fan failure due to heat

2012-01-08 Thread K9sqg
Fellow enthusiasts,


I'm wondering if any users of the Drake L-7 linear amplifier have experienced 
fan noise and lock-up due to excessive heat.  If so, I wonder how the problem 
was solved.  Other than the fan problem, amplifier operates properly, with 
correct output, on all bands.  The fan problem started about a year or more ago 
and I've worked on it on and off since then with no progress.  Prior to that, 
the amp worked fine.


How do I know the problem is heat?  Well, let me give you a brief description 
of some things done so far with no improvement.
Fan replaced four times with new models from different vendors.
Thermostat replaced twice.
Dropping resistor replaced several times.
Wiring in fan circuit replaced.
Fan wired directly to 110 vac with no change.
Known good tubes swapped with no change.


Here is how the problem can be induced.  With the amplifier on, standby, CW or 
SSB, tubes in or out, the fan will run continuously as it should, and with no 
problems.  If the amplifier is used on the air, regardless of CW or SSB mode, 
regardless of power level, the fan will start making noise and eventually stop. 
 If the amp is allowed to cool down, things start working normally.  In amp is 
put into transmit, with normal plate idling current, and NO input power (and 
thus no output power), the fan will start making noise and then stop after 
approximately 5-10 minutes.  Allowing the amp to cool down, the process can be 
replicated with consistency.  Note too, when the amp is operated normally and 
the fan uses the power source via the amp wiring, the fan will start making 
noise and eventually stop without it ever switching into high speed mode.


If you have experienced such a problem and have solved it, I would be 
interested in hearing what the solution is.  I have two other L7s that operate 
flawlessly so I'm still on the air but I like to keep my gear in proper 
operating condition if possible.


Enjoy those Drakes!  And don't forget the Drake HF nets.


73,


Evan, K9SQG
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[Drakelist] L-7 fan failure due to heat

2012-01-08 Thread Woody
*Evan, as you know that is exactly the way mine did, I think I about drove
you crazy trying to figure mine out. But since I went to the different fan
from All Electronics for I think about $7 and * * also I replaced the
resistor* *, I have had no problem. Now the Amp works great and I use it
quite a lot.*
*Woody
*

-- 
* ** **Of **all the things I've L**ost, I miss my Mind the Most~~~*
   * If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history*
*Thanks*
*Woody*
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[Drakelist] TR4 Power

2012-01-08 Thread Greg Hemmings N4WVE
I have a TR4 that, according to the manual, should have an output of 300 watts. 
I am getting about 110 watts. Am I doing something wrong or is there a problem?

Greg N4WVE
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Re: [Drakelist] TR4 Power

2012-01-08 Thread Garey Barrell

Greg -

When the TR-4 was first sold, transmitters were specified as  _INPUT_  power to the PA stage, 
because that was the way the FCC regulations defined transmitter power in the Ham Radio 
regulations.  This is the 300W specified in the manual.


With NEW PA tubes and perfect alignment, you should get close to 200W on 80, 40 and 20M, 175W on 15M 
150W on 10M.  These are  _OUTPUT_  power.  This is the way the FCC regulations define transmitter 
power today.  The change was primarily the result of the availability of reasonably accurate 
wattmeters beginning in the 70's.


Your PA tubes are probably a little weak, and the alignment could probably use a touch-up.  Your 
readings are typical for a transceiver in need of a 'tune-up'!  :-)


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Greg Hemmings N4WVE wrote:
I have a TR4 that, according to the manual, should have an output of 300 watts. I am getting about 
110 watts. Am I doing something wrong or is there a problem?


Greg N4WVE 


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Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

2012-01-08 Thread Steve Wedge
I've done all which-ways.

I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow it 
down.
I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 12V 
wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point where the 
thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a hamfest.
I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he used 
are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply for 
12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed wires 
through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber feet.  No 
holes get drilled that way...

YMMV,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



From: Michael  Sue Trussell 
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?


I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I know a 
few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 110 volt 
version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I don't have to 
plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like the fan to come on 
when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any suggestions?

 

Thank you in advance

 

Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN






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Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

2012-01-08 Thread john
I've used a couple silicon diodes in series in a sleeve of shrink wrap to 
slow the fDC ans down a bit too...   or, use a 9V wall wart. The fans are 
almost free these days and it doesn't take a huge one to make a big 
difference in the temp in the radio.


73
John K5MO



At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:

I've done all which-ways.

I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow 
it down.
I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 
12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point 
where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a 
hamfest.
I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he 
used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply 
for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed 
wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber 
feet.  No holes get drilled that way...


YMMV,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
John Stark.

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.


From: mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.netMichael  Sue Trussell
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
To: mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.netdrakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 
110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I 
don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like 
the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any 
suggestions?


Thank you in advance

Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN


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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

2012-01-08 Thread Kris Merschrod
Mark,  that is a nice description of the AC-4 rebuild.  Thank you for 
sharing it with us.


I have done a few of them but using Mike's (Solar) approach.  I confess that 
I did not strip it all down and scrube the chassis!  Very good idea to use 
new bushing etc.


I have gambled on the old switches holding out - so far so good.

Kris KM2KM
- Original Message - 
From: Mark Pilant n1...@arrl.net

To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed



OK, now the rebuild is really complete.  Yesterday I added the relay
to take the load off the On/Off switch.  Here are pictures and a
description of what I did:

http://www.n1vqw.net/ac4rebuild/#phase2

Before the addition of the relay, I measured a current draw of about
325 mA with the power supply unloaded.  This would also be the current
on the On/Off switch contacts.  Since this was on an unloaded power
supply, I would expect this to rise when transmitting.

After the addition of the relay, this current (from the relay coil)
seen by the switch contacts dropped to just a bit over 10 mA.  This is
a substantial drop, and should make the switch contacts last much
longer.

Oh yes, comments, corrections, and suggestions welcome.

73

- Mark  N1VQW

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Re: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?

2012-01-08 Thread Mike Bryce
or you could use one of my new fan controllers for the drake radios


mike


On Jan 8, 2012, at 7:45 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:

 I've done all which-ways.
  
 I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow it 
 down.
 I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 12V 
 wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point where 
 the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a hamfest.
 I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
 filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he used 
 are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
 If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply for 
 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed wires 
 through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber feet.  
 No holes get drilled that way...
  
 YMMV,
  
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
  
 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
 John Stark.
  
 All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
 thereto.
 
 From: Michael  Sue Trussell
 Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?
 
 I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I know a 
 few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 110 volt 
 version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I don’t have to 
 plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like the fan to come 
 on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any suggestions?
  
 Thank you in advance
  
 Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
 
 
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[Drakelist] TR4C needs a good home

2012-01-08 Thread R Webb
Gents,

 

I have a TR4C station setup that I need to part with.  I have to lighten the
load on the radio table.so to speak.

 

I have a TR4C, sn 40655 with noise blanker PNB-34

RV4C, sn 19585

AC4 sn 41360

DC4 2559

 

All units are in good to very good/excellent condition, no marks or
scratches.  I did have to pad the TR4 to transmit on CW in the right
place.might need alignment??

 

I have all the interconnecting cables and original Drake manuals with these
units.  

 

Contact me off line for information and pictures.

 

Regards

 

Ralph, VE7OM

 

 

Ralph Webb

Tel: 604-531-2662

Cel: 604-218-2614

 

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[Drakelist] Digital Readout for TR-3 and TR-4

2012-01-08 Thread Daniel Cox
I have a Palomar PD-700 digital readout that I believe should work with the 
TR-3 or TR-4. Of course there are no schematics or manuals available for this 
unit anymore. I can get the unit to readout and track the 5mhz vfo but cannot 
figure out where to connect the oscillator to give actual frequency readout. 
Anyone have experience in connecting a digital readout to either the TR-3 or 
the TR-4? I have both and would settle for being able to get it to work with 
either one.
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[Drakelist] Fans

2012-01-08 Thread Michael Kelly
Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question  I wire two 110 vac 
fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet they move a 
good deal of air.  

The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one in the 
front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a circular air flow  pattern and 
the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, (and for 
fun)  I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the one on 
the finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. 

To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a ball about 
half the size of a pea to serve as feet on each corner of the fan. It won't 
stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary.  

So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both 

As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans in a 3 
way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on the slow 
start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. 

Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the transceiver.  
Cooler is better, eh?

Happy New Year everyone. 

Michael n4mak

Sent from my iPhone

//
 
 At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:
 I've done all which-ways.
 
 I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow 
 it down.
 I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 
 12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point 
 where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a 
 hamfest.
 I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
 filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he 
 used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
 If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply 
 for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed 
 wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber 
 feet.  No holes get drilled that way...
 
 YMMV,
 
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
 John Stark.
 
 All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
 thereto.
 
 From: mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.netMichael  Sue Trussell
 Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
 To: mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.netdrakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?
 
 I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
 know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 
 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I 
 don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like 
 the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any 
 suggestions?
 
 Thank you in advance
 
 Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Fans

2012-01-08 Thread K9sqg
Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220 v fan that will start 
reliably and run consistently. Super quiet!


73,



Evan, K9SQG


-Original Message-
From: Michael Kelly mkell...@gmail.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] Fans


Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question  I wire two 110 vac 
fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them at all yet they move a 
good deal of air.  

The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight up and the one in the 
front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a circular air flow  pattern and 
the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just to make sure, (and for 
fun)  I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets on top of the one on 
the 
finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. 

To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal rolled in a ball about 
half the size of a pea to serve as feet on each corner of the fan. It won't 
stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary.  

So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by doing both 

As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these series wired fans in a 3 
way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start circuit. Turn on the slow 
start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. 

Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything in the transceiver.  
Cooler is better, eh?

Happy New Year everyone. 

Michael n4mak

Sent from my iPhone

//
 
 At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:
 I've done all which-ways.
 
 I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin' wire-wound resistor to slow 
 it down.
 I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my finals, running off a 
 12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the temp gets to the point 
 where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This fan cost me $5 at a 
 hamfest.
 I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous owner tapped off the 
 filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave rectifier).  The fans he 
 used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
 If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off the filament supply 
 for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE location, or just feed 
 wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan on top, using rubber 
 feet.  No holes get drilled that way...
 
 YMMV,
 
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
 Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
 John Stark.
 
 All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
 thereto.
 
 From: mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.netMichael  Sue Trussell
 Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
 To: mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.netdrakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC Transmitter?
 
 I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on my transmitter. I 
 know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans and some have used the 
 110 volt version. What I would like to know where I can get power so I 
 don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the rig on.  I would like 
 the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the transmitter, any 
 suggestions?
 
 Thank you in advance
 
 Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed

2012-01-08 Thread Garey Barrell

Excellent job.  The relay is certainly an effective way to protect that switch. 
  However ...

A simple power strip with enough outlets for a single station solves the AC switch problem.  The key 
is to switch the equipment on  -OR-  off  _only_ when the power strip switch is OFF.


None of our boatanchor equipment has an easily power switch, most are on the back of a 
potentiometer.  I don't use ANY boatanchor power switches 'hot' any more.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Kris Merschrod wrote:

Mark,  that is a nice description of the AC-4 rebuild.  Thank you for sharing 
it with us.

I have done a few of them but using Mike's (Solar) approach.  I confess that I did not strip it 
all down and scrube the chassis!  Very good idea to use new bushing etc.


I have gambled on the old switches holding out - so far so good.

Kris KM2KM
- Original Message - From: Mark Pilant n1...@arrl.net
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 11:05 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (now :-) completed



OK, now the rebuild is really complete.  Yesterday I added the relay
to take the load off the On/Off switch.  Here are pictures and a
description of what I did:

http://www.n1vqw.net/ac4rebuild/#phase2

Before the addition of the relay, I measured a current draw of about
325 mA with the power supply unloaded.  This would also be the current
on the On/Off switch contacts.  Since this was on an unloaded power
supply, I would expect this to rise when transmitting.

After the addition of the relay, this current (from the relay coil)
seen by the switch contacts dropped to just a bit over 10 mA.  This is
a substantial drop, and should make the switch contacts last much
longer.

Oh yes, comments, corrections, and suggestions welcome.

73

- Mark  N1VQW




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Re: [Drakelist] Digital Readout for TR-3 and TR-4

2012-01-08 Thread Garey Barrell

Dan -

No real difference between the '3 and '4.  The only practical place to pick off the frequency is at 
the output of V3a.  Obviously this requires a counter that is 'offsettable' by the 9 MHz Carrier 
oscillator.  A second offset would be required for CW readout.


On the other hand, do you  _really_  need to know your frequency to better than 
a half kHz???

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Daniel Cox wrote:
I have a Palomar PD-700 digital readout that I believe should work with the TR-3 or TR-4. Of 
course there are no schematics or manuals available for this unit anymore. I can get the unit to 
readout and track the 5mhz vfo but cannot figure out where to connect the oscillator to give 
actual frequency readout. Anyone have experience in connecting a digital readout to either the 
TR-3 or the TR-4? I have both and would settle for being able to get it to work with either one.

Thanks; Dan





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Re: [Drakelist] Digital Readout for TR-3 and TR-4

2012-01-08 Thread W4AWM
Many potentiometers having a switch on the back are common in that the  
switch will fit several different controls. I have found many of these on  NOS 
and used pots at hamfests and I always buy several, especially new ones. It  
is nice to get several since they are prone to getting lost in the junque 
pile  at home. The purpose of this is to remind you that if your switch dies, 
there is  still hope. Not so the L-4B and L-7 switches although I have 
heard of some  fellows who were able to repair them.
 
Garey's power strip idea is an excellent way to take the load off the  
equipment mounted switch but I am a bit of a nut then it comes to turning on a  
piece of great with the internal switch. Yes, matching and replacing the 
switch  can be a real exercise in patience since many times, the entire control 
has to  be removed to replace the switch on the back. If you don't mind 
scrounging and a  bit of work, you can keep your gear original, at least when 
it comes to powering  it up. By the way, Garey's idea is a great way to make 
sure all the gear  connected to it is off and in a storm, pulling that 
single strip plug and  disconnecting antennas may save you from electrical 
storm 
damage.
 
This goes for other makes of boatanchors also.
 
73,
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Fans

2012-01-08 Thread Eugene Balinski
I use 220VAC fans all the time on my Drake gear. The work
well and are quiet.  They are generally available used at
ham fests for cheap money as no one wants a 220V fan...

73
Gene K1NR


On Sun, 8 Jan 2012 22:11:11 -0500 (EST)
 K9sqg k9...@aol.com wrote:
 Another approach I've found to work well is to use a 220
 v fan that will start reliably and run consistently.
 Super quiet!
 
 
 73,
 
 
 
 Evan, K9SQG
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Michael Kelly mkell...@gmail.com
 To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, Jan 8, 2012 4:57 pm
 Subject: [Drakelist] Fans
 
 
 Okay here's another way to go at the fan plan question
  I wire two 110 vac 
 fans in series so they run half speed. I can't hear them
 at all yet they move a 
 good deal of air.  
 
 The one above the finals on my TR4Cw is blowing straight
 up and the one in the 
 front top in the middle is blowing in. I get a circular
 air flow  pattern and 
 the entire transceiver never even approaches warm. Just
 to make sure, (and for 
 fun)  I have a thermometer on top of the fan which sets
 on top of the one on the 
 finals and the temperature hardly changes at all. 
 
 To keep the fans stationary I use 4 pieces of coax seal
 rolled in a ball about 
 half the size of a pea to serve as feet on each corner
 of the fan. It won't 
 stick permanently but it will keep the quite stationary.
  
 
 So for me the question of blow out or in is answered by
 doing both 
 
 As for providing power I have both the AC-4 and these
 series wired fans in a 3 
 way plug which is in turn plugged into a soft start
 circuit. Turn on the slow 
 start switch turns on both the AC-4 and the fans. 
 
 Try the two fan approach ... No need to modify anything
 in the transceiver.  
 Cooler is better, eh?
 
 Happy New Year everyone. 
 
 Michael n4mak
 
 Sent from my iPhone



//
  
  At 07:45 PM 1/8/2012, Steve Wedge wrote:
  I've done all which-ways.
  
  I once used a 120V fan and used a big, honkin'
 wire-wound resistor to slow 
  it down.
  I currently use a 12V fan with a thermistor over my
 finals, running off a 
  12V wall wart.  the fan runs really slow until the
 temp gets to the point 
  where the thermistor lets it go for full-speed.  This
 fan cost me $5 at a 
  hamfest.
  I've worked on a couple of R-4B's where the previous
 owner tapped off the 
  filament supply with a diode and cap (half-wave
 rectifier).  The fans he 
  used are a little louder than my Xmitter fan.
  If you opt for using on-board power, you can tap off
 the filament supply 
  for 12V and feed it to an RCA jack in the SPARE
 location, or just feed 
  wires through that hole.  I like just setting the fan
 on top, using rubber 
  feet.  No holes get drilled that way...
  
  YMMV,
  
  Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
  
  Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils.
  John Stark.
  
  All my computers have my signature with various pearls
 of wisdom appended 
  thereto.
  
  From: mailto:mtruss8...@comcast.netMichael  Sue
 Trussell
  Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:33 PM
  To:
 mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.netdrakelist@zerobeat.net
  Subject: [Drakelist] Need a fan for my T-4XC
 Transmitter?
  
  I need to replace my old 30 year old 110 volt fan on
 my transmitter. I 
  know a few of you have used the twelve 12 volt fans
 and some have used the 
  110 volt version. What I would like to know where I
 can get power so I 
  don't have to plug the fan in every time I turn the
 rig on.  I would like 
  the fan to come on when I turn on the power  to the
 transmitter, any 
  suggestions?
  
  Thank you in advance
  
  Michael J Trussell  KA8ASN
  
  
  --
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