Re: [drakelist] AC-4R upgrades
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Tom: I have one of the early AC3 supplies that used a HV choke. Garey K4OAH and I had a lot of discussions about its design some time back after I discovered the ceramic 25W load resistor was open. You better check yours to see if its OK. It will still operate but the no load HV will float very high with an open load resistor. I was never able to find an exact replacement at the time I needed it so I installed a 25W wire-wound resistor in a vertical fashion with a small bolt running through it. Somewhat similar to the original setup. I choose a 25K 25W instead of a 15K to reduce the heat dissipation produced by the resistor. The 25K still loaded down the HV and was near the same as was prior with the original 15K 25W resistor which seems to regularly fail due to running it at or near it's maxium wattage dissipation. Also one last thing, If I recall the HV winding on this early choke version AC3 was higher than the later AC3 and AC4's that didn't use the HV choke. Seems I temporally jumped across this choke just to see what effect it had on the HV and if I recall correctly the HV jumped up in voltage considerably, and was then out of speck and was near the max voltage ratings of the 2 HV caps. (No Good) I would appreciate your findings on the HV secondary windings if you don't mind. Too put it quite frankly I don't care for the early model AC3 choke type supply due to these issues. The only nice thing about this model is that all the caps mount on the underside of its chassis. This AC3 supply now serves as my test bench supply and is not used in my station. Hope this helps, Don / WA9TGT On 12/11/06, Tom Taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I have a number of Drake A, B, and C twin combos. I decided to upgrade all the power supplies with AC-4R boards. Since most of the caps are now 30 to 40 years old, I don't want to risk a bias supply going out and ruining the finals or some short ruining the transformers. I order a bunch of blank boards since I already had some of the parts. The rest of the parts I ordered from DigiKey. I assembled all the boards at the same time and then started upgrading the AC-4s, one by one. So far, all of the power supplies are different in one way or another and all of them have been modified by previous owners. Here are some examples: #1) A previous owner replace the mid-voltage supplies' capacitors with a bundle of three caps mounted to the upper end the supply. #2) A previous owner replaced the sand resistor below the chassis with two higher wattage resistors mounted to the upper end of the supply. #3) A previous owner replaced one of the diodes in the HV supply. The transformer in this supply has transformer bolts inserted the wrong direction to mount the AC-4R board. Unfortunately, it's not as simple as removing the bolts and inserting them in the other direction because the bolts are just long enough to reach, but not long enough to add the board spacers. #4) This is an AC-3, serial #101. I've never seen a Drake power supply like this. There's a large choke mounted adjacent to the transformer. All of the other parts, including the capacitors, are radial lead caps that are packed underneath the very low chassis. Has anyone else seen an early AC-3 like this? I'm planning to remove the choke and rebuilding the supply just like all of the others since all of the circuitry is now on the AC-4R board. Thanks, Tom N7TM -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN "Unique Radio Parts" www.wa9tgt.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] WTB: 10K 20W Ceramic Resistor for AC3
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I am in personal need of the specially styled 10K (20W) Ceramic Resistor used on the very early Drake AC3 Power Supply. This is the early AC3 that used a Choke Input on the 650V section. I would be happy to find this resistor either new or used as long as it is good. Regards, Don -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN "Unique Radio Parts" www.wa9tgt.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Newbie with questions.
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Keith: I can also vouch for the quality of the Drake CD Service Disks that Garey (K4OAH) offers. I have them all and they are all well worth the money. The disks are very well done! 73, Don / WA9TGT On 7/5/06, Don and Diana Cunningham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: "Don and Diana Cunningham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Keith, As Garey so eloquently said, this is only ONE man's opinion, but I will agree with the R4B being the best of the receivers you mentioned. I like the "mellow" sound, both on SSB and AM shortwave stations, and the built-in passband tuning and filter widths is a definite plus for casual use. Yes, the "color coded" crystals refer to the built-in crystals, and only effect transceive mode, which is handy for casual SSB conversations with the T4XB. Good luck with your vintage Drake! By the way, Garey was too nice to "toot his own horn", but the CD he produces for the 4 B line is fantastic!! Well worth the money just for the time savings finding the components on boards. Very nice pictures of EACH board, with labels. Hard to beat. No connection, no commissions, etc, hi, just a very satisfied customer. 73, Don, WB5HAK -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN ARCI #6447, ARS #1717, AmQRP, ECI-QRP #001 (Indiana) Drake 2-B, 2-C, R-4A, R-4B, 2-NT, T-4X, TR-4, Elecraft K1 & K2 Drake MN-4 Tuner, 67' CF Zepp www.wa9tgt.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Test
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Test Message -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN ARCI #6447, ARS #1717, AmQRP, ECI-QRP #001 (Indiana) Drake 2B, 2C, R4A, R4B, 2NT, T4X, TR-4, Elecraft K1 & K2 Drake MN-4 Tuner, 67' CF Zepp www.wa9tgt.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] The TR-3 part four... from ebay
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Mike: Sounds like your making good progress on the old TR-3. Tackling one problem at a time, that's the way I do it, then move on to the next problem. 73, Don / www.wa9tgt.com On 6/18/06, Mike Bryce <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Boys... A new set of 12JB6's and three new cathode resistors and there be fire in the wire!!! The transmitter now has about 175 watts output into a 50 ohm load (on 40 meters). The load control now seems to be "active" and loads up at between 3-5 on the scale.. I did not try other bands yet. now... the only problem i still have is the S-meter being way to generous. And.. if I reduce the rf gain, the meter moves up, but pegs itself swapped out several tubes in that receiver and s-meter circuit, that did change things..but perhaps the tubes that made things change were no goo to begin with. one set had the s-meter working, but when you turned the gain down, the meter did not move at all... Once i get the s-meter bug fixed, looks like a new front panel from tony and some other goodies... this guy is almost ready to go. mike Mike Bryce, WB8VGE the heathkit shop SunLight energy systems J e e p o|||o -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN ARCI #6447, ARS #1717, AmQRP, ECI-QRP #001 (Indiana) Drake 2B, 2C, R4A, R4B, 2NT, TR-4, Elecraft K1 & K2 Drake MN-4 Tuner, 67' CF Zepp using glass doobies! Message To All: Please Buy American when possible. Our USA manufacturing base and it's workers really need your support these days! -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] blue lenses
Richard:You can change the S-meter BLUE filter strip without removing the front panel. You just need to remove one of the two 6-32 nuts that holds the rear s-meter retaining bracket in place. Remove the top bolts nut and then just loosen the nut on the bottom bolt. This will allow you enough room to gain access to the blue strip that lays against the edged of the meter and re-install the new one. Don't over tighten the (2) 6-32 nuts during reassembly because you can crack the s-meter lens. It sometimes helps to turn the pre-selectors tuning rack control all the way down to the 160 meter position to allow more room to work on this project. Don / WA9TGT "Unique Radio Parts" see www.wa9tgt.com On 5/26/06, Richard J. Fiero II W5TFW <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:> > "Richard J. Fiero II W5TFW" < [EMAIL PROTECTED] > made an utterance to the drakelist gang> -- > Hello all,> > I seek information, I bought new blue lenses for my Drakes, the dial lense > was no problem however the s meter lense looks like to change it one has to> remove the whole front plate. is there an easy way ? > also I have a c-4 however the red and black push buttons dont allow the > thing to stay on, once you take your finger off they go off I am assuming> they are bad ( the switches ) am I overlooking something? > > > Thanks, Joey> Richard J. Fiero II W5TFW > QSL Manager USS KIDD DD-661> http://members.cox.net/w5tfw/my%20web%20page.htm> > -- > Submissions: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net> Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body > Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message> Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net> --> -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN ARCI #6447, ARS #1717, AmQRP, ECI-QRP #001 (Indiana) Drake 2B, 2C, R4A, R4B, K2 #3186, K1 #1806 LDG Z-11 Auto Tuner, 102' CF Zepp using glass doobies!
Re: [drakelist] Removing Meter from R4-A
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Kevin: After you have removed the main front panel you will see 2 small machine screws about 3/4" ~ 1" long with (6-32) threads that holds the S-meter in place using a white painted metal retaining bracket. You must remove the 2 nuts from these 2 machine screws in order to remove the S-meter bracket. These 2 nuts will usually have some glue on them so they may be a bit hard to turn for a couple threads. After removing the 2 nuts the meter will be free. If you want to completely remove the meter you will have to un-solder the 2 wires from the meters terminals. Make sure you mark the wires so you can re-install them back on the exact same meter terminals.. When you reinstall the meter do not over tighten the meter bracket or you will crack the S-meter lens. Also it helps to have the slugs turned all the way down in the pre-selector rack near the 160 Meter markings prior to the meters removal. While you have the meter out it's a good time to re-install a new Blue Meter Filter during re-assembly. I hope this helps! 73, Don / WA9TGT On 4/30/06, kbgluxford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: kbgluxford <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi guys, This little mechanical puzzle has me beat. Having taken the front panel off the R4-A, how does one get both the meter and its metal holder out from behind the panel? Any enlightenment gratefully received. Have fun at Dayton! 73 Kevin VK3DAP / ZL2DAP -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- WA9TGT / Don Garrett / Muncie, IN ARCI #6447, ARS #1717, AmQRP, ECI-QRP #001 (Indiana) Drake 2B, R4A, R4B, K2 #3186, K1 #1806 LDG Z-11 Auto Tuner, 102' CF Zepp using glass doobies! -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Shaft Couplers
"Donnie Garrett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- "Replacement" Plate, Load and RF Tune shaft couplers are now available for the Drake T4X, T4XB, T4XC, TR3, TR4 and TR6 series. View at: http://www.wa9tgt.com/Drake_Shaft_Couplers.html -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
