[drakelist] Crystal question

2008-03-02 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

I received a set of four premixer crystals from International Crstal for my
TR-3.  The TR-3 premixer is the same design as that used in the TR-4.  Two
of the crystals work fine, but two don't work.  I am unable to align the
second pair. Each crystal has two frequencies marked on them, FC and FX.  I
seem to remember something about fundimental and overtone frequencies of a
crystal, and suspect that these two measurements are related to that.  The
two crystals that work have a fundimental frequency (FC) that matches what I
ordered, whereas the two that don't have an overtone (FX) that matches what
I ordered.  I assume that international crystal is aware of what the Drakes
require, so I'm puzzled that they appear to have sent me the wrong parts.
If someone could briefly explain what the difference between these two
measurements is, or point me to a web-page, I'd appreciate it.  

Rich - KE1EV


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RE: [drakelist] TR-7 AF control

2008-02-18 Thread Rich Carter
Ken
I had the same problem with an old hollow-state receiver.  My XYL said that
either that damn radio had to go or she'd leve me.  Gosh I miss her.
 
 
 
Just kidding.  There's something wrong with the AGC in the old receiver.
I'll get to it one of these days.
 
Rich - KE1EV


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of K Allen
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 3:56 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] TR-7 AF control


I recently acquired TR-7 SN 3173, my first.  Is it normal for the AF control
to provide enough volume to still hear easily when full counter-clockwise or
is the pot changing value with age?  Only way I have of cutting audio volume
down lower is by use of RF control.  Doesn't bother me but I have a picky
XYL who's not all that fond of my hobby.
 
Thanks,
Ken - N0VA 



RE: [drakelist] moving crystals

2008-02-18 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Gary
I have four bad crystals in my TR-3.  Although I've ordered replacements, it
would be nice to have spares.  Can the old crystals be "repaired" using the
techniques discussed?

Rich

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Poland
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:40 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] moving crystals
> 
> 
> "Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to 
> the drakelist gang
> --
> Back several years ago when I first got interested in 
> operated AM I didnt have crystals for 3880, 3885, or 7290 for 
> my DX-60. I was able to take
> FT-273 crystals I had on hand and with water and fine emery 
> paper bring them up to the frequencies I needed. I was 
> surprised that it worked! I still have them and they still 
> are on frequency.
> 
> 
> 
> 73, Gary W8PU
> http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu
> 
> 
> 
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RE: [drakelist] TR-3 Getting close

2008-02-08 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
 Mark
I had the same issue.  Here's what Gary did.

>To adjust the crystal oscillator for most negative voltage 
> is misleading. 
> It varies with the crystals but you just need to adjust for 
> the least amount of voltage, not necessarily below zero.
> Adjust T7,8,9, and 10 in transmit instead of receive as 
> per the TR-4 manual.
>I do not have any spare crystals, you can get them from 
> Jan or International Crystal. Just tell them they are for a 
> Drake TR-3 or 4.
>I adjusted T-4 with a scope for the most even amount of RF 
> across the entire tuning range. This adjustment alone did the 
> most to bring the RF power back up to normal. The power 
> output should normally be around 210 watts on 80 meters. The 
> 12JB6's are a bit tired, thus the lower 10 meter power. For 
> power on 15 meters I had to split the small 15 meter coil as 
> explained in the TR-4 service directions.

Rich - KE1EV

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Pilant
> Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 7:01 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [drakelist] TR-3 Getting close
> 
> 
> Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to 
> the drakelist gang
> --
> Well, I'm almost there.
> 
> After replacing the 9 MHz crystal and aligning the receiver, 
> I tackled the transmitter.  There was only one minor issue, 
> but I'll get to that in a moment.  Transmitting into my dummy 
> load, I get the following:
> 
>  80m 125w
>  40m 150w
>  20m 150w
>  15m 140w
>  10(1)m  125w
>  10(2)m  120w
>  10(3)m  120w
> 
> All in all, this doesn't look too bad.  BTW, this was CW as I 
> need to get a microphone.
> 
> The only minor issue I ran into during the transmitter 
> alignment was getting the carrier balance adjustment done.
> The carrier balance control, along with T14 and C127, didn't 
> seem to have any effect.  Can anyone shed some light on what 
> might be going on?
> 
> The only final adjustment I *might* is the VFO.  With 
> everything aligned and the crystals all working, the VFO 
> seems to be a bit on the low side.  Low enough that sliding 
> the window all the way over to the left still doesn't line 
> things up.  Has anyone done a VFO alignment?  The manual says 
> to return the transceiver to the factory if it needs adjustment.
> 
> 73
> 
> - Mark  N1VQW
> 
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RE: [drakelist] Broken Vox/antiVox Pot.

2008-01-22 Thread Rich Carter
Carl
I'm glad I double-checked.  It is a 100K pot.
 
It does indeed have a slot on the back of the pot for a screwdriver.  I can
turn the pot if I pull the chassis open, but this isn't a permanent fix.
I'd like to replace the darn thing.
 
Regards
Rich
 
 


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 6:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Broken Vox/antiVox Pot.



 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I broke the anti-vox adjustment pot.  This is a 500K pot.   It has a black
plastic shaft. 

Rich on a TR4 the VOX pot is 500 K  the Anti VOX is 100k.  Yes you could
swap the plastic shaft but to do so you have to remove anyway.  Please
verify which one and advise. 
In the interum..   I do not know if you noticed but there is a
screwdriver adjust slot on the inside of the pot, and I am assuming you have
the lower cover off. 
Carl 




  _  

Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape
  in
the new year. 



RE: [drakelist] TR-3 crystals needed (was:TR-3 9 MHz osc & alignment questions)

2008-01-20 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Mark
Where did you measure?  Pin 6 of V1b?

Rich

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Pilant
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 5:12 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [drakelist] TR-3 crystals needed (was:TR-3 9 MHz osc 
> & alignment questions)
> 
> 
> Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to 
> the drakelist gang
> --
> Gary (W8PU) was kind enough to measure the output of the 9 
> MHz osc on his TR-4.  (The TR-3 and TR-4 are very similar in this
> area.)  He said he was seeing about 1 V p-p.  Looking at the 
> same place, the signal I saw was about 30 mV.  Clearly 
> something isn't right :-)
> 
> Before I tried injecting a 9 MHz signal from one of my signal 
> generators, I figured I'd measure the signals with the band 
> crystals switched in.  Here is what I got:
> 
>   40m 21.5 MHz  125 mV
>   15m 35.5 MHz  200 mV
>   10(1)m  42.5 MHz  500 mV
>   10(2)m  43.0 MHz  600 mV
>   10(3)m  43.6 MHz  600 mV
> 
> Looking at this, it seems the 10m crystals are OK.  However, 
> the 40m and 15m crystals are off a bit :-)
> 
> So I guess before I can go too much further I need to find:
> 
> 1)  9.00 MHz crystal
> 2)  21.5 MHz crystal
> 3)  35.5 MHz crystal
> 
> Does anyone have some spares they might be willing to part 
> with or know where I can get some replacements?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 73
> 
> - Mark  N1VQW
> 
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RE: [drakelist] Microphone question

2008-01-20 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Ron
I'm using a Daiwa HF wattmeter on the peak setting.  While I realize the
meter should show a low reading, I would expect that a I should need to
reduce the RF gain from max to prevent overdriving the rig.  Since the rig
lacks speech compression, I don't know what I should measure, but I would
expect a 300W rig to drive at least 10W or or more.  What do others see on
their meters?  

It seems to me that the collins mic I have is not matched properly.  I have
my hands full alignment issues.  It may be best for me to replace the mic
with something that is known to work with this rig.

Rich - KE1EV

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron Wagner
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 7:37 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [drakelist] Microphone question
> 
> 
> Ron Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Rich,
> It has been a while since I had my TR3, but I do remember 
> that a 600 ohm hand mic I had tried was not good match for 
> the rig.  I would guess 2K ohms would be in the ball park.  
> They were made in the days of high impedence mics.
> 
> As far as getting only a few watts out, how are you measuring 
> that?  Most watt meters I have seen (unless they are peak 
> reading) only show a few watts of RF on the Drakes while 
> measuring SSB.  Drakes are not using compression, so they 
> have a very large peak to average power ratio.  What that 
> means is that unless the meter is designed to read peak 
> power, it will show a very low average power.  Average power 
> being what most meters read.  My TR7 typically shows about 5 
> watts on my Drake MN4 watt meter. 
> And I know that on a peak watt meter I have ~200 watts going out.
> 
> One last thing, on AM it will also show low power.  Drakes 
> use controlled carrier AM.  That is the carrier changed as 
> you spoke.  What that does is lower the heat on the finals.  
> The TV sweep tubes were designed for high peak, low average 
> power.  If you ran them any other way, you wore them out very 
> quickly.  Ideal for uncompressed SSB service, not so good for 
> other service.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 73,
> Ron WD8SBB
> 
> On Sat, 19 Jan 2008, Rich Carter wrote:
> 
> > The mic came with the rig.  I assume they should work 
> together.  The 
> > mic seems to work, but it doesn't have enough drive for the 
> radio.  I 
> > only get a couple of watts out for SSB if I yell into the mic.  The 
> > problem could be in the rig, but I thought it best to check 
> the mic first.  I opened it up.
> > There's a 4 ohm microphone element and a matching transformer that 
> > says BT3
> > 001 on it.  I can find no specs for the mic.  What is more 
> frustrating 
> > is there appears to be no information about what the drake 
> transceiver 
> > wants for mic impedance.  I don't have any matching 
> transformers in my 
> > spare parts bin.  Before I run out there and buy some 
> parts, I thought 
> > it best to see if anyone knows what the heck the rig wants.
> >
> > Thanks for the reply
> > Rich
> >
> >
> 
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RE: [drakelist] TR-3 9 MHz osc & alignment questions

2008-01-20 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Gary
I'm chasing a similar problem.  If the SSB filter is bad, would you be able
to tell by listening to an AM broadcast signal using both USB and LSB?

If the premixer band crystals are slightly off frequency, would this cause
similar behavior? 

Rich KE1EV

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Poland
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 8:13 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] TR-3 9 MHz osc & alignment questions
> 
> 
> "Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to 
> the drakelist gang
> --
> Mark,
>I am getting into the tail end of this conversation but 
> either 1/2 of the soup can filter is bad or your 9 mhz 
> carrier oscillator is off frequency.
> 
> 73, Gary 
> 
> 
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RE: [drakelist] Microphone question

2008-01-20 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
 
Mike
I'll take your suggestion and replace the mic.

Thanks
Rich


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Williams
> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2008 7:51 A
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Microphone question
> 
> 
> Mike Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
> drakelist gang
> --
> Just a suggestion Rich;  try a Shure 444 or D104 (without the 
> preamp) on your TR-3.  This radio and the 4 line have a High 
> Z mic input.  You will get good results with either of these 
> 2 mic's although there are a myriad of others that will fill 
> the bill as well.
> 
> Good DX!
> 
> Mike W4DL
> 
> Ron Wagner wrote:
> >
> > Ron Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> > 
> --
> > Rich,
> > It has been a while since I had my TR3, but I do remember 
> that a 600 
> > ohm hand mic I had tried was not good match for the rig.  I would 
> > guess 2K ohms would be in the ball park.  They were made in 
> the days 
> > of high impedence mics.
> >
> > As far as getting only a few watts out, how are you 
> measuring that?  
> > Most watt meters I have seen (unless they are peak reading) 
> only show 
> > a few watts of RF on the Drakes while measuring SSB.  
> Drakes are not 
> > using compression, so they have a very large peak to average power 
> > ratio.  What that means is that unless the meter is 
> designed to read 
> > peak power, it will show a very low average power.  Average power 
> > being what most meters read.  My TR7 typically shows about 
> 5 watts on 
> > my Drake MN4 watt meter. And I know that on a peak watt 
> meter I have 
> > ~200 watts going out.
> >
> > One last thing, on AM it will also show low power.  Drakes use 
> > controlled carrier AM.  That is the carrier changed as you spoke.
> > What that does is lower the heat on the finals.  The TV sweep tubes 
> > were designed for high peak, low average power.  If you ran 
> them any 
> > other way, you wore them out very quickly.  Ideal for 
> uncompressed SSB 
> > service, not so good for other service.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > 73,
> > Ron WD8SBB
> >
> > On Sat, 19 Jan 2008, Rich Carter wrote:
> >
> >> The mic came with the rig.  I assume they should work 
> together.  The 
> >> mic seems to work, but it doesn't have enough drive for 
> the radio.  I 
> >> only get a couple of watts out for SSB if I yell into the 
> mic.  The 
> >> problem could be in the rig, but I thought it best to 
> check the mic 
> >> first.  I opened it up.
> >> There's a 4 ohm microphone element and a matching transformer that 
> >> says BT3
> >> 001 on it.  I can find no specs for the mic.  What is more 
> >> frustrating is there appears to be no information about what the 
> >> drake transceiver wants for mic impedance.  I don't have 
> any matching 
> >> transformers in my spare parts bin.  Before I run out 
> there and buy 
> >> some parts, I thought it best to see if anyone knows what the heck 
> >> the rig wants.
> >>
> >> Thanks for the reply
> >> Rich
> >>
> >>
> >
> > 
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RE: [drakelist] Microphone question

2008-01-19 Thread Rich Carter
The mic came with the rig.  I assume they should work together.  The mic
seems to work, but it doesn't have enough drive for the radio.  I only get a
couple of watts out for SSB if I yell into the mic.  The problem could be in
the rig, but I thought it best to check the mic first.  I opened it up.
There's a 4 ohm microphone element and a matching transformer that says BT3
001 on it.  I can find no specs for the mic.  What is more frustrating is
there appears to be no information about what the drake transceiver wants
for mic impedance.  I don't have any matching transformers in my spare parts
bin.  Before I run out there and buy some parts, I thought it best to see if
anyone knows what the heck the rig wants.
 
Thanks for the reply
Rich


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 9:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Microphone question


[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
-- 
Possibly none depending on the transmitter it is intended for.  Or, it might


need a step up or step down transformer depending on the impedance of the
mic 

element and the input impedance of the transmitter.


**
Start the 

year off right.  Easy ways to stay in shape.
 

http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp0030002489
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[drakelist] Microphone question

2008-01-19 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I should have been more specific.  I'm using it in a TR-3.

I have a collins mic that appears to provide a weak signal.  Does anyone
know what kind of transformer should be in a mic like this?

Rich - KE1EV


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[drakelist] Microphone question

2008-01-19 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I have a collins mic that appears to provide a weak signal.  Does anyone
know what kind of transformer should be in a mic like this?

Rich - KE1EV


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RE: [drakelist] TR-3 9 MHz osc & alignment questions

2008-01-19 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Mark
The 40M band is reversed.  It defaults to USB.  You have to change the SB
selector to X to get LSB.

Do you have the VFO connected or the jumper in place?

The low signal strength issue might be similar to what I'm chasing on 40M.
Check the alignment voltage at the test point for the 21.5mhz crystal to see
if it is still working.

Rich

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Pilant
> Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 7:09 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [drakelist] TR-3 9 MHz osc & alignment questions
> 
> 
> Mark Pilant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to 
> the drakelist gang
> --
> The saga of the TR-3 continues ...   :-)
> 
> I'm in the process of going through the receiver alignment 
> and I've come across some "weird" things.
> 
> The first concerns the 9 MHz oscillator.  It does seem to be 
> working, but the 9 MHz signal seems to be only about 20 mV 
> P-P.  (As measured on my Tek 7904 with a 7A26 vertical 
> plugin.  I.e., a high impedance
> load.)  There isn't anything in the manual which gives the 
> amplitude, so I don't know whether this is correct, too low, 
> or too high.  Also the adjustment variable cap (C-130) 
> doesn't seem to have any effect.
> Any words of wisdom?
> 
> The second problem is a bit stranger.
> 
> Just after I finished the alignment I hooked the TR-3 up to 
> my Cushcraft R-7 antenna to see what I could hear.  I was 
> able to receive a number of stations in 80m and 40m.  The 40m 
> stations were mostly SWBC.  The amateur stations I could 
> receive seemed to be a little "garbled".  Similar to what you 
> would hear when you listen to an SSB signal in AM mode.  You 
> can tell someone is talking but it sure doesn't sound right.  
> This may be related to the 9 MHz oscillator issue.
> 
> But that wasn't the end, it gets even stranger.
> 
> I shut off the power so I could put the cabinet bottom on.  
> When I turned on power, the audio was there but it was as 
> though the audio gain was way down; and the control(s) were 
> at the max.
> The s-meter seemed to be reading fine.  (A 60 uV signal from 
> my HP 8640B registers almost exactly S-9 on the meter.)  
> Sometimes the audio is completely gone and only reappears if 
> I switch the
> RV-3 on and off.
> 
> Oh yes.  All of the alignment I did with the chassis on its side.
> The strange audio problem started after I put the cabinet 
> bottom on and oriented the chassis in the normal operating position.
> 
> 
> I do have one other thing to test.  I did the alignment with the
> 9 MHz osc tube (6GX6) in a test socket, so it was about and 
> inch and a half above the chassis.  When I put the cabinet 
> bottom on, I took out the test socket and put the tube in the 
> normal socket.
> I want to put the test socket back in and try again.
> 
> 73
> 
> - Mark  N1VQW
> 
> --
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RE: [drakelist] Deoxit helps Jones connectors on a Swan 500cx,

2008-01-06 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jim
I have a brand new male/female pair of 15 pin Cinch connectors that I bought
for another project.  Both come with cable shells.  The top two rows have
pins configured in a vertical orientation and the bottom row has the pins in
a horizontal configuration.

I have no burning desire to get rid of the parts, but if you need them, I'll
send them out.  I can always replace them at the local Ham Radio flea-market
this spring.  There was a commercial vendor there last fall who had a few
boxes of verious size Cinch connectors.  I don't remember what I paid for
them, but I think it was $25 for the pair.  You are welcome to them for that
plus shipping; figure $30 total.

I think the Drake TR-3 I just bought has 12 pin connectors.

Regards
Rich - KE1EV  

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim F.
> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 4:28 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; swan
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Deoxit helps Jones connectors on a 
> Swan 500cx,
> 
> 
> "Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Results of my experiments:
> 
> Tried 3 things to clean the battleship gray, tough as nails, 
> oxidation from Jones plug pins that the 12VAC filament 
> voltage could not even penetrate.
> 
> 1. Craig Deoxit (RS - very expensive) and didn't work
> 
> 2. Contact spray (RS) cleaner didn't work
> 
> 3. MWW Brass Chrome & metal polish worked.
> 
> Got it from the supermarket. It is a gray paste that turns 
> oxidation black when left on for a while and removes it in 
> chunks with a Q-tip. 
> 
> The pins were so bad that I had to do it a couple of times 
> then clean the residue with RS spray contact cleaner and Q-tips.
> 
> It's much cheaper than buying and installing new 15 pin Jones 
> connectors, if that mounting type are even available.
> 
> Nice to see shiny metal coming through but don't know what to 
> do about the plug receptacle.
> 
> Does anyone have a cable mount 15 pin Jones receptacle for sale ?
> 
> Without the shell is OK as I can use the old one.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Jim / W1FMR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- Jim Shorney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > 
> > "Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
> > drakelist gang
> >
> --
> > On Sat, 05 Jan 2008 15:10:26 -0500, Garey Barrell
> > wrote:
> > 
> > >I don't recall ever having one "fail", but it's
> > certainly a good idea to
> > >make sure that the heavy multiconductor power cable
> > is not hanging from
> > >the connector.
> > 
> > The one on my L4B failed quite spectacularly. One of those 
> things you 
> > never forget. I'm still not sure why, but the working 
> theory is that 
> > the connector body absorbed enough moisture to flash over at 220 
> > volts.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Jim Shorney  -->.<--Put complaints in this box
> > jshorney (at) inebraska.com
> > Ham Radio NU0C
> > Lincoln, NE, USA
> > EN10ps
> > http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/
> > 
> > 
> >
> --
> > Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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> > unsubscribe drakelist in body
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> > body of message
> > Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> >
> --
> > 
> 
> 
> --
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RE: [drakelist] WTB: MN-4 or MN-2000

2008-01-05 Thread Rich Carter
I've never had the pleasure of dealing with the business in question.  I
would advise refraining from personal attacks on this list.  I also suggest
that you avoid legal exposure that this kind of thing provides.  If you feel
compelled to inform us of a potential problem with sellers on ebay, you
might make an indirect reference such as "a certain celler who states that
everything is Excellent."
 
Just my 2cents.
 
Regards
Rich
 
 


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ted Wright
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 7:52 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [drakelist] WTB: MN-4 or MN-2000


Hello
  Please tell me you did not buy from that crook Radio -Mart . who states
every thing is Excellent 

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 


My luck for the past few weeks has been poor seeking a transmatch for the
Drake 4B station. Either out bid in final moments or the units advertised as
EXCELLENT CONDITION have dented corners from being dropped, internals
disfigured from arcing or overheating. All this under the guise of being
excellent.
 
I would like to ask if anyone has either an MN-4 or preferably an MN-2000 in
very good condition they would like to sell,. I can do Paypal if you prefer.
Please contact me directly.
 
Thanks 
 
Alan KB7MBI
Woodinville, WA




  _  

Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape
  in
the new year. 



RE: [drakelist] Happy New Year!

2007-12-31 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

Gary,
You can have some of my snow.  We've had over three feet, and it isn't even
January. Good thing I have indoor activites to keep me busy, like restoring
an old hollow-state transciever.

Happy New Year
Rich - KE1EV  (New Hampshire)

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Poland
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 1:16 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [drakelist] Happy New Year!
> 
> 
> "Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to 
> the drakelist gang
> --
> I am standing in the sunlight garage looking at my $10,000 JD 
> lawn tractor and snow blade ... sigh. Maybe I wont have to 
> send in a payment with no snow?
> 
> Happy New Year gang !!
> 
> 73, Gary W8PU
> http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu
> 
> 
> 
> --
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> Zerobeat Web Page:  www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net
> --
> 


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[drakelist] Testing tubes

2007-12-28 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I'll have to confess that my experience with tubes is limited.  By the time
I studied electronics, tubes were no longer covered.  I've restored a few
old receivers mostly by tube substitution.  I appreciate some pointers from
those more knowledgeable.

I have a Precision 612 tube tester, and I've used it to test some tubes.
Most of the TR-3 tubes used are not shown on the scroll list for the tester.
In particular, the 12JB6 PA tubes are not listed.   Thought I realize that
the best place to test tubes is in the actual circuit, I think there are
still uses for tube testing.  I thought I might be able to use it to match
the PA tubes.  A search on the internet doesn't find settings for the
missing tubes.  Does anyone know how to determine tester settings for
unlisted tubes?

Does anyone have a tube substitution list for Drake tubes?  I saw such a
list for Swan rigs, but I've not found one for Drakes.  If I could find
substitutes numbers for missing tube settings, I might find settings listed
for an equivalent tube.

Also, some of the tubes used in the transceiver have almost the same number
as listed tubes in the scroll list, but have an A on the end.  As an
example, no 12BY7A has settings listed, but a 12BY7 is listed.  The same is
true for the 6AU6A.  Does anyone know what the A suffix means?

Thanks in advance
Rich KE1EV


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RE: [drakelist] R4C function switch

2007-12-27 Thread Rich Carter
Dick
I have a sailboat with lots of electronics onboard. The salt air causes
problems with switches, breakers, and pots on the equipment onboard.  I've
tried many different contact cleaners and lubricants, but PB Blaster works
best.  This is a penetrating spray lubricant sold in most hardware stores.
I don't know if this is a good long-term fix, but I've had very good success
restoring old switches and pots using it.  It has something in there that
removes oxidation and it lubricates the switches at the same time.  One
would think that leaving an oil film on the contacts would cause the switch
to collect dirt and quickly need to be re-cleaned, but I haven't found that
to be the case.  If you are sure that the switch is gone anyway, there is
nothing to lose by trying the stuff.  I've used it on all the old radios
I've restored.  It also works like magic on a variable air-gap capacitor and
associated hardware used for tuning.
 
Of course, it there is a mechanical problem with your switch, no lubricant
will help.  If it just makes poor contact or is difficult to actuate, it
might surprise you.  If you do try it, I'd be interested to hear the result.

 
Rich - KE1EV
 


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of DW Harms
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 11:28 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] R4C function switch


Drakelist de PA2DW,
 
The function switch (off/stby//on/ext.mute/etc.) in my R4C is beginning to
warn-out. Too much on/off switching I guess hi! 
I have fixed it temporarely, but it is obvious I need a new one. In fact I
only need the shaft with the "step-organiser"  or how would we call that
part...
 
Any info on a source?
 
VY 73 and best wishes for the NewYear!
 
Dick PA2DW

*
 



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message has been received.  





[drakelist] Newbie questions

2007-12-27 Thread Rich Carter

"Rich Carter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I just purchased a TR-3 station and will soon begin the process of restoring
the rig.  The station includes the transceiver, remote VFO, and PS/speaker.
All are in poor condition.  I have yet to receive the package, so I don't
know exactly what I'm in for other than the power supply is bad and the
cabinets are dirty and scratched up.  I'm expecting the worst. I've
purchased an AC4R power supply refit kit from the Heathkit Shop.  I plan to
tear the radio down, clean, refit, recap, repaint etc.  I anticipate having
to replace a few tubes, probably the PA finals (12JB6) at least.  I'd
appreciate pointers from anyone out there who has done similar.

A few quick questions:

Do the PA tubes need to be replaced as a matched set?

Used tubes are OK with me if tested.  I'd like to purchase a full set of
spares. Can anyone recommend a supplier?

I expect to replace all the electrolytics.  Any recommendations for where to
buy these?

When recapping, do any of the caps need to be in shielded cases, or can they
all be positioned under the chassis?

I found some great information on the wb4hfn pages.  I plan to tear the rig
down and put it in my dishwasher as suggested.  Any comments regarding
problems with this procedure are welcome.

I'll need a microphone.  I see no information about mic impedance.  What
does this thing need?

Thanks in advance
Rich - KE1EV



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