Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter
With regard to Garey's suggestion to acquire a VFO, I have some hands-on experience with the various VFO types with my Globe Scout transmitter that goes back to my early General license days in the 50's. The Globe Scout used a 6V6 oscillator, the same as the Globe King 500A uses, and the only reasonably priced VFO on the market at the time that would drive it on all bands was the WRL 755 with its 6BC6 buffer stage. The others just had the VFO circuit and although I recall being able to eek out enough drive from a Heathkit VF-1 (a Johnson 122 knock-off) on 80 and 40 meters. If you use anything but the WRL 755, the Millen 90711 (with a 6SK7 buffer and 6AG7 amplifier), or maybe a Meissner Signal Shifter, there may not be enough moxie (technical term!) to drive it. 73, Tony K4KYO At 04:07 PM 2/25/2011, Garey Barrell wrote: Charles - The output from the Drake transmitters is only about 0 dBm, or about 0.25V RMS on 14 MHz ONLY. The Globe King 500 probably requires more like 5-10 V RMS input on 3.5 or 7.0 MHz. Also, there are two RCA jacks added to the rear panel that will have a jumper cable between them for normal operation. Removing that jumper disables the PA stage by removing the Screen voltage from the PA tubes. Much better to pick up a Heath HG-10B, Hallicrafters HA-5, WRL 755, or ... 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Charles Ring wrote: Thank you. Looking at the T-4XB in question, I found that modification was already done before I acquired it, so now I know how to use it. 73 de W3NU On 2/24/2011 11:21 PM, Ron wrote: Charles, Only the first part of an answer. The standard Drake factory mod to bypass/shutdown the finals for Drake VHF transverters is here: http://bama.edebris.com/manuals/drake/trnsvrtr/ Not sure what all else you might need as I am not familiar with the Globe King 500A's other requirements. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Thu, 2/24/11, Charles Ringw...@roadrunner.com wrote: From: Charles Ringw...@roadrunner.com Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB as exciter To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Thursday, February 24, 2011, 7:42 PM A possible project I would like to do is to use one of my two T-4XB's as a vfo/exciter (cw/rtty) for my Globe King 500A. I know I would bypass the sweep tube final, not sure what other adaptations would be needed. Has anyone done this kind of thing? I would pair it with my R-4B or my R-4C. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR7 No Standby or Mute
Hi guys, This morning during my vintage AM net, my antenna changeover relay decided to quit on me, so I switched on my TR7 to use as a receiver. As there's no standby mode, before transmitting (100 watts) I turned the RF and AF gain all the way down and manually switched the antenna to the TR7 with the coax switch. It didn't work so well though. As I often have both rigs on at a time, it would be nice to be able to mute the ones not in use rather than turn them off, especially those that need to stay warm. I've looked through the TR7 manual, but I can't seem to find anything on a standby mode. Does anybody know of a way to use the TR7's receiver with another transmitter? Thanks 73, Tony K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR7 No Standby or Mute
Hi Garey, My first reaction is, Wow! I was hoping there was already a muting circuit, as with the TR7-R7 pairing, but in that case I doubt anyone would use the TR7 as the receiver. I'll get my Service Manual out and go from there. Thanks much! VY 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:28 PM 2/23/2011, Garey Barrell wrote: Tony - I'm not aware of any external 'Standby' control for the TR-7 receiver. A quick look at the schematic shows that the AF OUTPUT chip has it's own +13.6 VDC source on Pin 30 of the 2nd IF/AF board. There is a 22 uF cap on the line, so the cut off 'might' be a little slow, but it looks like you could just interrupt that supply and MUTE the receiver. There may be another way to inhibit a part of the 10R bus, (the 'normal' standby internally is accomplished by turning off the entire 10R bus,) so that could also be done by control on the Transmit/Exciter board via Q307 and Q308. Grounding the Base of Q308 would MUTE the receiver. Unfortunately that is the inverse of Drake MUTE circuits which OPEN a ground connection to MUTE the receiver, so an inverter stage would be necessary. Still only a transistor/resistor to invert. There are a few spare pins and at least one RCA jack on the back panel that could be used. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard A. (Tony) Stalls wrote: Hi guys, This morning during my vintage AM net, my antenna changeover relay decided to quit on me, so I switched on my TR7 to use as a receiver. As there's no standby mode, before transmitting (100 watts) I turned the RF and AF gain all the way down and manually switched the antenna to the TR7 with the coax switch. It didn't work so well though. As I often have both rigs on at a time, it would be nice to be able to mute the ones not in use rather than turn them off, especially those that need to stay warm. I've looked through the TR7 manual, but I can't seem to find anything on a standby mode. Does anybody know of a way to use the TR7's receiver with another transmitter? Thanks 73, Tony K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Those Dishpan hands.. er radios
At 12:52 PM 2/22/2011, TC Dailey wrote: Dishwashers work swell on carbureators, but not so pretty good on radios. Tom - WØEAJ You got that right Tom! Somebody sent me an email recently with an axiom that went, Bad decisions make good stories. I have one about radio cabinets and dishwashers. In the spirit of the definition of insanity being repeating the same failed behavior with the expectation of a different outcome, I have washed TWO Heathkit cabinets in my dishwasher. The first was DX-35 cabinet and the second was an SB-610 station monitor. What happened in both cases was that the paint fell off in sheets that I was able to pick up like it was paper. Heath obviously had just sprayed the bare metal without priming it and left it at that. I guess the idea was to make it look good in the showroom, but after that, who cares? That said, I've been cleaning stuff in the dishwasher for years, generally with the desired result. However, I'd suggest not doing that with painted items. 73, Tony K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Cracked MN2700 Reactive Range Switch Knobs
Are you guys tired of my MN2700 saga yet? I certainly am! Anyway... One of the little cylindrical push-on knobs on the two horizontal reactive range switches broke apart when I grasped it and I think the other one is cracked and not far from breaking. Does anybody have any spares or know of a source? Thanks! Tony K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7
One of the guys I chat with fairly often on 75 meters, Morris Dillingham (KI4IUA), has installed X-Lock kits on a Heathkit transceiver and also a Swan 270B Cygnet and he reports they pretty much eliminated the VFO drift in both cases. He said the Swan's drift was about 3 Hz. Given what similar huff-puff kits cost, they appear to be an excellent value if you have need for one of them. At today's exchange rate, the cost for an X-Lock kit is $31.26. (http://www.xe.com/ucc/) Cumbria Designs: http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/ 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:12 AM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: I bought my x-lock which arrived a few weeks ago. With input from Joe KC9LAD on the watch outs and rit interface resistor network, I built and installed my x-lock in one day. I did make a minor change of putting the headers for the plugs in sideways. Mounting on the bottom of the main TR7 board, that allowed me to keep the device plugs so that I can unplug if needed. This is a good kit, but not a Heathkit, so have at least some electronic knowledge before you start. Since I get only limited on the air time, I can only say that to date, I absolutely love the thing. As net control, I no long bump the dial as my TR7 coasts around. The price with British pounds to dollar conversion, shipping etc is about $40. Just my $.02 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Fri, 2/11/11, Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com wrote: From: Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Friday, February 11, 2011, 9:43 AM I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it. With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if you want to make the radio back to original no one would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is far from open heart surgery you don't even have remove the top cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift. 73 Joe KC9LAD Tom, I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's Digital Automatic Frequency Control. It's about $114. Info on it can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de/http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided to not make any changes to my TR7. It is what it is and I thought I'd leave it that way. The best stability solution without doing open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side. 73, Tony K4KYO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7
At least we don't have that EU 20% Value Added Tax! Not yet anyway... 73, Tony K4KYO At 06:33 PM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: For anyone thinking of purchase, be sure to check with your credit card about fees. Mine charged a flat $2 transaction (money exchange) fee. Others may charge more. 73 Ron WD8SBB --- On Sat, 2/12/11, Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net wrote: From: Richard A. (Tony) Stalls rasta...@verizon.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Saturday, February 12, 2011, 11:41 AM One of the guys I chat with fairly often on 75 meters, Morris Dillingham (KI4IUA), has installed X-Lock kits on a Heathkit transceiver and also a Swan 270B Cygnet and he reports they pretty much eliminated the VFO drift in both cases. He said the Swan's drift was about 3 Hz. Given what similar huff-puff kits cost, they appear to be an excellent value if you have need for one of them. At today's exchange rate, the cost for an X-Lock kit is $31.26. ( http://www.xe.com/ucc/) Cumbria Designs: http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/ 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:12 AM 2/12/2011, Ron wrote: I bought my x-lock which arrived a few weeks ago. With input from Joe KC9LAD on the watch outs and rit interface resistor network, I built and installed my x-lock in one day. I did make a minor change of putting the headers for the plugs in sideways. Mounting on the bottom of the main TR7 board, that allowed me to keep the device plugs so that I can unplug if needed. This is a good kit, but not a Heathkit, so have at least some electronic knowledge before you start. Since I get only limited on the air time, I can only say that to date, I absolutely love the thing. As net control, I no long bump the dial as my TR7 coasts around. The price with British pounds to dollar conversion, shipping etc is about $40. Just my $.02 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Fri, 2/11/11, Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com wrote: From: Joe Pyles epy...@indy.rr.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7 To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Friday, February 11, 2011, 9:43 AM I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it. With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if you want to make the radio back to original no one would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is far from open heart surgery you don't even have remove the top cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift. 73 Joe KC9LAD Tom, I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's Digital Automatic Frequency Control. It's about $114. Info on it can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de/http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided to not make any changes to my TR7. It is what it is and I thought I'd leave it that way. The best stability solution without doing open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side. 73, Tony K4KYO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelisthttp://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7
Tom, I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's Digital Automatic Frequency Control. It's about $114. Info on it can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided to not make any changes to my TR7. It is what it is and I thought I'd leave it that way. The best stability solution without doing open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit on the pricey side. 73, Tony K4KYO At 09:57 PM 2/10/2011, you wrote: Hi Gang, Here I am, stuck again. I purchased a Cambria Designs X-Lock frequency stabilizer for my TR-7, and need some help. Where is the best place to mount it? Is there a web site that shows an installation? Is this the one that uses the RIT line to make frequency corrections? PS, My R4 is serial # 0823 Thanks for reading this... Tom Maguire, WD8JPP ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What is the TR7 Case Color?
I visited a powder coating place today in an attempt to match the color of the TR7 to redo my sticky-paint MN2700 cabinet. I spent about a half-hour going over hundreds of color chips without being able to decide which one was the closest. They said that most colors have names, presumably like Saint James Gray for Collins radios, and if they could find out what that was, they may be able to reproduce it. So... Does anybody know what name of the TR7 color is? I told them to hold off until tomorrow (02/10/10) to see if I can find out what it is, otherwise we're probably going to go with flat black. Thanks 73, Tony Stalls, K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Blue LED Bulbs for Drakes
Another ham directed me to a CoinTaker, pinball machine parts company at http://www.cointaker.com, for LED 47 replacements. Go to the quick search box and search for 47 and you'll get 104 products that includes bundles of 100 along with both specific pinball applications and regular frosted bulbs in various colors. I haven't bought any of these yet, but at only $0.69 each for the regular 47 replacements, I intend to to give them a try. 73, Tony Stalls K4KYO At 12:47 AM 2/3/2011, Dennis Monticelli wrote: The LEDs in this product look just like the ones that come in the XMAS lite strings. That market probably drove mass production and low prices, which in turn enabled this outfit to build a bulb. It would probably benefit from a diffuser in some applicatons. Thanks for sharing your finding with the group. Dennis AE6C On Wed, Feb 2, 2011 at 3:42 PM, Kevin Elliott mailto:kg...@yahoo.comkg...@yahoo.com wrote: First I want to say I am sorry if this upsets the person that is making and selling the blue LED bulbs on Ebay and other web sites. I just can't afford to pay $30.00 plus shipping for 2 bulbs. So I went looking for a different source and I found one that was much cheaper. The company sells #47 Blue (or other color) LED bulbs. The best thing is the price... $1.58 each. The worked perfect on the main dial but were not quite bright enough for the meters until I took the reflector off and scrubbed it white again. Now for $3.18 I can but the blue bulbs in the TR-4 or even opt for red since I ordered some of them and they look very nice as well. Here is the link http://www.centsibleamusements.com/pinball-led-44-47.aspxhttp://www.centsibleamusements.com/pinball-led-44-47.aspx Enjoy ___ Drakelist mailing list mailto:Drakelist@zerobeat.netDrakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Q about ordering
I haven't ordered Drake crystals, but I've ordered lots of others from International Crystal over the years, most recently for my Swan 500CX's 510X external oscillator. When I order now, I call Sara Gore, 800-725-1426, extension 237. Sara is familiar with taking amateur radio orders and as she's told me, she doesn't mind handling onesie and twosie orders. She's a nice lady. 73, Tony K4KYO At 11:16 AM 1/20/2011, Bob Jackson wrote: When ordering Drake crystals from I'ntl, do I give them the band freq or the crystal freq that I want? Tnx, Bob AG5X ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Solder Sucker Reccomendation
I've used an Edsyn Soldapullt Model DS017 with good success for so long that I don't remember when I didn't have it. It's 7 long and big enough to hold onto and have good suction. You can easily re-cock it by pushing the plunger against the bench top, or whatever's convenient, making it a good one-hand thing while you keep the heat on big stuff you're de-soldering. Beware of the little ones as I bought one of those at Radio Shack when I misplaced my Soldapullt and it was only marginally useful. Go to http://www.edsyn.com/index.php?Mode=DesolderingTools, the manufacturer's web site for what they have. The DS017 like I have is second from the top. 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:33 PM 1/12/2011, w7...@mtaonline.net wrote: Looking for a high quality solder sucker (the spring loaded type) Anybody have any reccomendations? Thanks! Marty/KL7AM ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR7 Drift - Many Thanks!
Hello All! The suggestions you guys have made in response to my request for a TR7 drift remedy are very much appreciated. I've read just about everything you've referred me to and now I'm much better informed about making a decision. Thanks very, very much!!! VY 73, Tony K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] TR7 Drift
My TR7 drifts around 100-150 Hz PTO during the first hour. After that it calms down a bit, but it still drifts. I've come up with a couple of potential solutions, but to be truthful, I don't know enough to competently decide if they're what I want. The Swan guys tell me the Cumbria Designs X-Lock huff-puff type frequency stabilizer (http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/x-lock.htm) guarantees 10 Hz stability, but it's apparently better than that. One person I know installed them in a Heathkit SB transceiver (I forget which) and a Swan 270B Cygnet and measured the drift at about 3 Hz. I've also looked at the DL1SDQ Digital Automatic Frequency Control (DAFC) huff-puff stabilizer (http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de) that he says is intended for the TR7, although it appears it's not adaptable for RV7. It's about $114 as compared to the X-Lock for about $30, as of yesterday's Euro and Pound exchange rates. Does anybody have any experience with either of these huff-puff stabilizers, or is there a better way? How about for the RV7? Thanks and Happy New Year! 73, Tony K4KYO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Six Meter Options
Hi Kevin, I was very active on 6 meter AM in 57-59. I used a Globe Scout 680 with my HQ-140-X and an International Crystal 6 meter converter with a 5 element Hy Gain beam on a 20 foot pole in my back yard and had good success with it. My rig was pretty typical of the time, so if you want to simulate a 50's era 6 meter station, go with a transmitter-receiver/converter combination. The only sort-of transceiver I remember from then was the Gonset Communicator, but of course it wasn't really a transceiver as it was a transmitter, receiver, and power supply in the same box. The other commercial six meter transmitters I remember from back then were the plate modulated Lettine 242 (what I always wanted) and the Johnson 6N2 with an 829B that borrowed it's power and modulator from a companion Viking Ranger, Viking I, or Viking II. It seems I remember a lot of homebrew transmitters from back then too. The International Crystal 6 meter converters were popular because they were cheap and worked pretty well. The one we all wanted back then though, but couldn't afford, was the Tapetone XC-50. If you can find one of those, grab onto it. I'd recommend the Swan 250 for SSB, but only because I have lots of Swan experience and none whatsoever with the TR-6 although I'm highly confident it's as good, or very probably better. One thing the Swan 250 has going for it though is that it uses a pair of relatively plentiful and cheap 6146's rather than the sometimes hard to find and ridiculously expensive sweep tubes that were so popular in the 70's. VY 73, Tony K4KYO At 01:49 PM 12/31/2010, you wrote: Hi All, First of all, happy New Year to everyone! Thanks for your help and advice throughout the year. Now to my question. I now have a C line station running well and I like it very much. I use it primarily on AM and really like the vintage radio activities. I now have two other AM stations one of which I am going to sell at an upcoming ham fest. I am active on a six meter AM group here and would like to land some sort of vintage six meter station, preferably some sort of transceiver that will work well on true AM. My question is, what did Drake offer along that line? If not Drake, what else might you recommend to me? Thanks and very 73. Kevin :) Amateur Radio: K7RX ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Request For Information...
Hi Eddy, I believe you have to register and log on to get access to email addresses for fellow Drake aficionados (!) you wish to contact. VY 73 Happy New Year, Tony K4KYO At 10:48 AM 12/29/2010, Diane and Edward Swynar wrote: Hi Guys, This request *may*, or may *not* be directly related to the Drake Reflector---it all depends upon your perspective! Hi Hi Specifically---and correct me if I'm wrong---but didn't we all the ability not too long ago of finding a fellow Ham's e-mail address by logging onto qrz.com...? I tried to get on the site yesterday in order to update it with my new address here, but that option no longer appears to be available... Did qrz.com run into privacy issues, or something, das a consequence, dropped this feature...? It sure was handy. Is there some other way to look-up a Ham's e-mail address...? Many thanks in advance, my vy ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] TR7 issue
Hello all... I'm a newbie to the list and this is my first message to the group, but I've corresponded to a few individuals privately, mostly because I have the wisdom to know what I don't know. The fact is that I'm in the process of duplicating my TR7 rig from the 1980's and from the day I broke open all those new factory sealed Drake boxes way back then until I replaced it, it functioned trouble-free, so what do I know about stuff that goes wrong or fixing it? (Answer: Not much!) I did share the remedy Ron Baker applied to my recently acquired TR7 that in retrospect I should have posted to the group. At the time, as far as I knew, it was knowledge and would have been just a lot of QRN. I won't be so concerned from now on. Far be it for me, a newcomer, to criticize how the list is run, but (here it comes) I don't understand why there's a response to both an individual and to the list. I realize that some may subscribe to a daily digest and maybe the thought is the redundancy is so they'll get their reply right away, but why burden the real-time members with duplicate mailings? Based on a time I was getting a hundred or so mailings decades ago from several discussion lists, many of them duplicates, I'd vote for the option to reply to the list, or to the individual at the respondent's option. 73! Tony Stalls, K4KYO Arlington, VA At 12:18 AM 12/14/2010, Richard Knoppow wrote: - Original Message - From: john joh...@nc.rr.com To: k4...@mindspring.com; captc...@flash.net Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Monday, December 13, 2010 12:32 PM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR7 issue Just to jump in here and reinforce what Garey mentioned...PLEASE respond to the reflector and to the original poster if need be. You can save the next guy with the same problem a LOT of time if you share your suggestions and fixes with the reflector (and the reflector archives). Don't be shy, POST.:-) John K5MO This is the problem with different mailing lists being set up differently, this one, and the Collins list, is set up so that hitting _reply_ goes only to the original poster, one must click on _reply all_, then the message goes to both the original sender and the list and sometimes others who have responded to the thread. This one is going to three people plus the list if I don't edit the To: field. I have heard arguments both ways about this arrangement. For me its a bit of a PITA because I subscribe to about twenty mailing lists and there is not consistent way of responding to posts. I've learned to look at the To field if I am not certain about a particular list. Everyone thinks their way is the best way which is why we have political parties and brands of cola. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
