[Drakelist] RCS 4 switces

2014-09-29 Thread Richard Tucker
I sold the RCS 4 switches.  Thank you.
Rick
W0RT___
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[Drakelist] RCS-4 antenna switch

2014-09-28 Thread Richard Tucker
I have two Drake  RCS-4 switch  units and three control heads for sale.  One 
was originally purchased by me in the late 70's and may have a bad component in 
the control head.  One control head and switch checked out okay a few years ago 
but I am selling all as is.  I used the one I bought for at least 30  years 
and it was an excellent product.  You mount the switch at the tower and run one 
coax and an 8 conductor cable (such as rotor cable) to it and it will switch 5 
antennas and handle a KW. I have the manual and schematic. Asking $125.00 plus 
$25.00 shipping in lower 48.  Rick, W0RT  ___
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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-17 Thread Loren McCullough

Partial success.

Abbatron/ H.H.Smith Part. No. 874 were a direct drop in replacement for 
the original binding post board (a.k.a. terminal strips).  Got them 
replaced and then hooked up the control head and applied power.  The 
lights come on, the motor break releases, but the motor won't turn.


Disassembled the motor and gear box.  The gear box had all the grease 
clumped together, but it was dry and nothing corroded in it.  All the 
gears are in good shape and move freely.  The motor itself turn by hand 
with some resistance, but it will not turn when power is applied.


Any suggestions?

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/7/2011 3:52 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
Mine wasn't that far gone inside.
sounds like you don't have much to loose so just give it your best 
shot. Drake gear is pretty rugged as you know so it should be amenable 
to being serviced and cleaned. Let me know if you get it going.


Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net
To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com; drakelist 
Drakelist@zerobeat.net

Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Finally got the switch box apart.  Have to replace all the external 
screws.  even with penetrating oil I was only able to remove one 
without snapping the head off, or having to grind them off, just way 
too rusty.


The motor frame also is a little rusty, apparently the plastic bag 
was not as watertight as it should have been.  With the help of a 
little oil, I can move the rotor by hand now nd will let it sit and 
see if it moves more freely later.  Unfortunately, I have to replace 
both terminal strips, they are both beyond any attempt at repair.  
Otherwise it looks good.  Will have to wait till I get the terminal 
strips replaced before I can apply any power, but this doesn't look 
like it's hopeless.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/3/2011 10:22 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
One more thing.  One of my terminal strips was all rusty and I 
brushed it carefully with a small wire brush and scraped rust off 
screw heads and put a small drop of
lubricating rust remover (can't remember the name) on it and on the 
threads when I got them backed out.  I may have replaced the screws 
--I think I did and I cleaned the strip after the screws were 
removed.It looked better and worked fine and is still working.  
Be careful of the phenolic board the strips are made out of, it can 
be brittle.

Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com
Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for.  I know it 
was fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the 
antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying 
around outside while I was QRT.  I know I have to replace the 
terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use.


What is the best way to take it apart?  All of the screws appear to 
be rusted and won't loosen.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on mine 
a few times.  I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked 
on it a bit. Do you have specific questions?

Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an 
RCS-4.  I haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The control 
head has been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote 
antenna switch has been sitting outside in the elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head 
that is in about the same situation except that the rotor has 
been in my attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-17 Thread Garey Barrell

Coil continuity??

'Locked Rotor' current?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Loren McCullough wrote:

Partial success.

Abbatron/ H.H.Smith Part. No. 874 were a direct drop in replacement for the original binding post 
board (a.k.a. terminal strips).  Got them replaced and then hooked up the control head and applied 
power.  The lights come on, the motor break releases, but the motor won't turn.


Disassembled the motor and gear box.  The gear box had all the grease clumped together, but it was 
dry and nothing corroded in it.  All the gears are in good shape and move freely.  The motor 
itself turn by hand with some resistance, but it will not turn when power is applied.


Any suggestions?

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/7/2011 3:52 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
Mine wasn't that far gone inside.
sounds like you don't have much to loose so just give it your best shot. Drake gear is pretty 
rugged as you know so it should be amenable to being serviced and cleaned. Let me know if you get 
it going.


Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com; drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Finally got the switch box apart.  Have to replace all the external screws.  even with 
penetrating oil I was only able to remove one without snapping the head off, or having to grind 
them off, just way too rusty.


The motor frame also is a little rusty, apparently the plastic bag was not as watertight as it 
should have been.  With the help of a little oil, I can move the rotor by hand now nd will let 
it sit and see if it moves more freely later.  Unfortunately, I have to replace both terminal 
strips, they are both beyond any attempt at repair.  Otherwise it looks good.  Will have to wait 
till I get the terminal strips replaced before I can apply any power, but this doesn't look like 
it's hopeless.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/3/2011 10:22 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
One more thing.  One of my terminal strips was all rusty and I brushed it carefully with a 
small wire brush and scraped rust off screw heads and put a small drop of
lubricating rust remover (can't remember the name) on it and on the threads when I got them 
backed out.  I may have replaced the screws --I think I did and I cleaned the strip after the 
screws were removed.It looked better and worked fine and is still working.  Be careful of 
the phenolic board the strips are made out of, it can be brittle.

Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com
Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for.  I know it was fully operational back in 
the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just 
been lying around outside while I was QRT.  I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the 
screws are all beyond use.


What is the best way to take it apart?  All of the screws appear to be rusted 
and won't loosen.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on mine a few times.  I bought a 
second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit. Do you have specific questions?

Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4.  I haven't really looked 
at either piece yet.  The control head has been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the 
remote antenna switch has been sitting outside in the elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is in about the same 
situation except that the rotor has been in my attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-17 Thread Loren McCullough

SUCCESS

The key to it was from my description of the insides when I first opened 
it up.  Not only was the motor frame rusty on the outside, it was also 
rusty on the inside where the rotor needs to turn (so of course, it 
wasn't).  Completely disassembled the motor and gently took a file to 
the inside of the rotor housing.  Works like brand-new now.  Still going 
to clean the switch contacts before I reassemble, although they seem to 
be fine with it stopping properly for each switch position.


Now to tackle the CD-44/Ham II while I wait for my order of DEOX-IT to 
come in.  That should only require replacing rusted hardware since it 
has sat in my attic for the better part of 20 years.  I may actually get 
these antennas up by fall.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/17/2011 10:07 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

Coil continuity??

'Locked Rotor' current?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Loren McCullough wrote:

Partial success.

Abbatron/ H.H.Smith Part. No. 874 were a direct drop in replacement 
for the original binding post board (a.k.a. terminal strips).  Got 
them replaced and then hooked up the control head and applied power.  
The lights come on, the motor break releases, but the motor won't turn.


Disassembled the motor and gear box.  The gear box had all the grease 
clumped together, but it was dry and nothing corroded in it.  All the 
gears are in good shape and move freely.  The motor itself turn by 
hand with some resistance, but it will not turn when power is applied.


Any suggestions?

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/7/2011 3:52 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
Mine wasn't that far gone inside.
sounds like you don't have much to loose so just give it your best 
shot. Drake gear is pretty rugged as you know so it should be 
amenable to being serviced and cleaned. Let me know if you get it 
going.


Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net
To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com; drakelist 
Drakelist@zerobeat.net

Sent: Sunday, August 07, 2011 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Finally got the switch box apart.  Have to replace all the external 
screws.  even with penetrating oil I was only able to remove one 
without snapping the head off, or having to grind them off, just 
way too rusty.


The motor frame also is a little rusty, apparently the plastic bag 
was not as watertight as it should have been.  With the help of a 
little oil, I can move the rotor by hand now nd will let it sit and 
see if it moves more freely later.  Unfortunately, I have to 
replace both terminal strips, they are both beyond any attempt at 
repair.  Otherwise it looks good.  Will have to wait till I get the 
terminal strips replaced before I can apply any power, but this 
doesn't look like it's hopeless.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/3/2011 10:22 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
One more thing.  One of my terminal strips was all rusty and I 
brushed it carefully with a small wire brush and scraped rust off 
screw heads and put a small drop of
lubricating rust remover (can't remember the name) on it and on 
the threads when I got them backed out.  I may have replaced the 
screws --I think I did and I cleaned the strip after the screws 
were removed.It looked better and worked fine and is still 
working.  Be careful of the phenolic board the strips are made out 
of, it can be brittle.

Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com
Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for.  I know it 
was fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but 
the antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been 
lying around outside while I was QRT.  I know I have to replace 
the terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use.


What is the best way to take it apart?  All of the screws appear 
to be rusted and won't loosen.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on 
mine a few times.  I bought a second one at a hamfest and have 
worked on it a bit. Do you have specific questions?

Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an 
RCS-4.  I haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The 
control head has been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and 
the remote antenna switch has been sitting outside in the 
elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head 
that is in about the same situation except that the rotor has 
been in my attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them

Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-07 Thread Loren McCullough
Finally got the switch box apart.  Have to replace all the external 
screws.  even with penetrating oil I was only able to remove one without 
snapping the head off, or having to grind them off, just way too rusty.


The motor frame also is a little rusty, apparently the plastic bag was 
not as watertight as it should have been.  With the help of a little 
oil, I can move the rotor by hand now nd will let it sit and see if it 
moves more freely later.  Unfortunately, I have to replace both terminal 
strips, they are both beyond any attempt at repair.  Otherwise it looks 
good.  Will have to wait till I get the terminal strips replaced before 
I can apply any power, but this doesn't look like it's hopeless.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/3/2011 10:22 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren,
One more thing.  One of my terminal strips was all rusty and I brushed 
it carefully with a small wire brush and scraped rust off screw heads 
and put a small drop of
lubricating rust remover (can't remember the name) on it and on the 
threads when I got them backed out.  I may have replaced the screws 
--I think I did and I cleaned the strip after the screws were 
removed.It looked better and worked fine and is still working.  Be 
careful of the phenolic board the strips are made out of, it can be 
brittle.

Rick
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com
Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for.  I know it was 
fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the 
antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying 
around outside while I was QRT.  I know I have to replace the 
terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use.


What is the best way to take it apart?  All of the screws appear to 
be rusted and won't loosen.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on mine a 
few times.  I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it 
a bit. Do you have specific questions?

Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4.  
I haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The control head has 
been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna 
switch has been sitting outside in the elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that 
is in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my 
attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-07 Thread K9sqg
I've found that any antenna, tower, rotor, etc. device used outdoors can 
benefit from the use of stainless steel hardware, nylon insert locknuts as 
appropriate.  You can buy it online at a price, including shipping, that is 
less than what you can buy locally for standard, plated hardware.





-Original Message-
From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com; drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sun, Aug 7, 2011 11:11 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Finally got the switch box apart.  Have to replace all the external 
screws.  even with penetrating oil I was only able to remove one without 
snapping the head off, or having to grind them off, just way too rusty.

The motor frame also is a little rusty, apparently the plastic bag was 
not as watertight as it should have been.  With the help of a little 
oil, I can move the rotor by hand now nd will let it sit and see if it 
moves more freely later.  Unfortunately, I have to replace both terminal 
strips, they are both beyond any attempt at repair.  Otherwise it looks 
good.  Will have to wait till I get the terminal strips replaced before 
I can apply any power, but this doesn't look like it's hopeless.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/3/2011 10:22 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:
 Loren,
 One more thing.  One of my terminal strips was all rusty and I brushed 
 it carefully with a small wire brush and scraped rust off screw heads 
 and put a small drop of
 lubricating rust remover (can't remember the name) on it and on the 
 threads when I got them backed out.  I may have replaced the screws 
 --I think I did and I cleaned the strip after the screws were 
 removed.It looked better and worked fine and is still working.  Be 
 careful of the phenolic board the strips are made out of, it can be 
 brittle.
 Rick
 W0RT
 - Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
 loren...@verizon.net
 To: Richard Tucker ri...@wavewls.com
 Cc: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 6:48 AM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


 Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for.  I know it was 
 fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the 
 antennas got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying 
 around outside while I was QRT.  I know I have to replace the 
 terminal strips, the screws are all beyond use.

 What is the best way to take it apart?  All of the screws appear to 
 be rusted and won't loosen.

 Loren - WA3WZR

 On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:
 Loren
 I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on mine a 
 few times.  I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it 
 a bit. Do you have specific questions?
 Rick Tucker
 W0RT
 - Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
 loren...@verizon.net
 To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
 Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


 Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4.  
 I haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The control head has 
 been sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna 
 switch has been sitting outside in the elements.

 Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that 
 is in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my 
 attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.

 Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

 Thanks,
 Loren - WA3WZR

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 Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3806 - Release Date: 08/02/11





 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1390 / Virus Database: 1518/3807 - Release Date: 08/03/11




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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-07 Thread W4AWM
Always use lock washers under those nylon insert nuts.  I have seen  many 
come loose over the years.
 
73,
 
John,  W4AWM
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/7/2011 3:38:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
k9...@aol.com writes:

I've found that any antenna, tower, rotor, etc.  device used outdoors can 
benefit from the use of stainless steel hardware,  nylon insert locknuts as 
appropriate.  You can buy it online at a price,  including shipping, that is 
less than what you can buy locally for standard,  plated hardware.



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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-03 Thread Loren McCullough
Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for.  I know it was 
fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas 
got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying around outside 
while I was QRT.  I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the 
screws are all beyond use.


What is the best way to take it apart?  All of the screws appear to be 
rusted and won't loosen.


Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on mine a 
few times.  I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a 
bit.  Do you have specific questions?

Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough 
loren...@verizon.net

To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4.  I 
haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The control head has been 
sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch 
has been sitting outside in the elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is 
in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my 
attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-03 Thread Steve Berg
Loren, the best penetrating oil I have ever found is Kroil.  You can 
generally get it at sporting goods stores, such as Midway USA.  I have 
used it successfully for several tough problems with rusty bolts and nuts.


Good luck on your project!

Steve WA9JML


On 8/3/2011 6:48 AM, Loren McCullough wrote:

Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for. I know it was
fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas
got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying around outside
while I was QRT. I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the
screws are all beyond use.

What is the best way to take it apart? All of the screws appear to be
rusted and won't loosen.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's. I have had to work on mine a few
times. I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit.
Do you have specific questions?
Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough
loren...@verizon.net
To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4



Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4. I
haven't really looked at either piece yet. The control head has been
sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch
has been sitting outside in the elements.

Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is
in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my
attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.

Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-03 Thread Richard Knoppow


- Original Message - 
From: Steve Berg wa9...@tbc.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 8:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Loren, the best penetrating oil I have ever found is 
Kroil.  You can generally get it at sporting goods stores, 
such as Midway USA.  I have used it successfully for 
several tough problems with rusty bolts and nuts.


Good luck on your project!

Steve WA9JML

I can't find Kroil locally. You can get it from the 
manufacturer on the web, I am not sure what the minimum 
amount is. I have a can of their Microil, a highly refined 
petrollium based oil suitable for instrument use. Kroil 
seems to be universally recommended as the best penetrating 
oil available.
There are some others; I've had decent results from 
Liquid Wrench, you sometimes need to use many applications 
over a length of time, days or even a couple of weeks. Not 
sure of Kroil works any faster. There also used to be 
something called Marvel Mystery Oil which had a reducing 
agent in it (converts oxide back to metal) reportedly 
hydroquinone, also used as a photographic developer. I used 
to see Marvel at Pep-Boys but have not looked for it lately 
and don't know if its even still made.
Beside applying penetrating oil try heating the rusted 
parts a bit, that may help the oil to penetrate. Also 
tapping on them can help because the vibration can help the 
oil to wick into the rusted area.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com 



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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-02 Thread Richard Tucker

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's.  I have had to work on mine a few 
times.  I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit.  Do 
you have specific questions?

Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - 
From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net

To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4


Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4.  I 
haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The control head has been 
sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch has 
been sitting outside in the elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is in 
about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my attic since 
the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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[Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-07-31 Thread Loren McCullough
Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4.  I 
haven't really looked at either piece yet.  The control head has been 
sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch has 
been sitting outside in the elements.


Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is in 
about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my attic 
since the tower crashed in the late 80s.


Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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[Drakelist] RCS-4 External Antenna Switch

2011-05-17 Thread Mark Nace
Hello everyone,
I just acquired an RCS-4 antenna switch that works.  Does anyone have any 
advice 
on whether I need to lube the drive motor, and if so, what to use, and how to 
do 
it?  Any other advice on other items I should be concerned about?  


Thanks and 73
Mark
N5KAE


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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4 External Antenna Switch

2011-05-17 Thread Richard Tucker

Mark,
RCS-4--I have used one continuously since the 1970's,  I have never lubed 
it.  I have disasembled it and cleaned the ant nests out of it and cleaned 
the contacts on the rotary switch with deoxit.  I bought a used one at a 
hamfest and finally had to start using the control head from it.  I think 
the transformer may have burned out in my original.  It is slow in extremely 
cold wx but still works fine.

Rick Tucker
W0RT
Kansas
- Original Message - 
From: Mark Nace n5...@swbell.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2011 6:40 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4 External Antenna Switch


Hello everyone,
I just acquired an RCS-4 antenna switch that works. Does anyone have any 
advice
on whether I need to lube the drive motor, and if so, what to use, and how 
to do

it? Any other advice on other items I should be concerned about?


Thanks and 73
Mark
N5KAE


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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4 External Antenna Switch

2011-05-17 Thread Kris Merschrod
I, too, have had one in use for years - the wireless type.  The external 
unit was sealed with the silicon caulking used ariund tubs.  Never a 
problem.  They are really nice gems.  I'd like a two position one if anyone 
has one.


Kris KM2KM

Merschrod
123 Warren Road
Ithaca, NY 14850
www.merschrod.net 



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